Carved wood buckets. Carved and chiselled wooden dishes How to make a ladle out of wood with your own hands

This lesson was provided to us by a MASTER from Syzran. It tells in detail (and shows - so far the largest master class on the site - more than 30 photos) how to make a beautiful ladle-mug out of logs.

So, to begin with, we take a log and dissolve it into ridges of the required length. It is convenient to do this using a petrol or electric saw.

Split it into two "equal cotyledons".
We deduce the working plane with a hatchet, if it is, of course, necessary, we put on it the contours of the future vessel and with it we begin to remove excess material, at first roughly.

It is possible (and necessary) in some places, for example, from the ends, to use a hacksaw, a jigsaw, or better with a band saw (if there is, we do not have it yet)

We file the handle, leaving an allowance and chop it off with an ax. Dangerous moment! If the fibers do not go directly, you can chop off the floor of the scoop!

Finer material removal is carried out using semicircular chisels.

On the resulting side profile, draw the contours of the handle and the scoop.

And one more shot illustrating both projections.

Let's move on to processing the handle. With the same chisels we roughly remove the material, adjusting it to the contour.

select the hole with cranberry

what is not convenient to cut with a chisel, we remove with a knife

now it is necessary to connect the contours on the bottom and the body. To do this, we apply another contour of the narrowing of the bottom.

did it with an ax, you can use a knife or a chisel, it doesn't matter

With a sharp knife we ​​remove all irregularities, angularities, etc., rounding off the shapes.

We do this until approximately this appearance.

Let's move on to choosing a bowl. To speed up the process, we will use 35 mm. The main thing here is not to drill through.

Next, with a power chisel with a mallet, we chop off the bulk inside. The chisel, like many of my tools, is self-made. I forged it from the spring, hardened it, and that's how I use it. Quite working

We gradually remove the material from the scoop.

We take a narrower chisel and continue working.

with cranberries we go deeper into the bottom, cutting off the flat part formed by the cutter.

We evenly select the material until this state is: the walls are slightly translucent, the thickness should be left about 5-6 mm with an allowance for further grinding

Here is a general view of the intermediate product.

We turn the bucket over and on the bottom we select = deepening, so that it does not swing on the table.

We remove all unnecessary and this is what we have at the end of the first part. URGENTLY wrap it in newspapers and a bag, otherwise it will crack !!! Let it dry. Then there will be grinding.

That's it, drying is complete. Let's start grinding

Let's start sanding the inside with such a self-made device.

This is how it became after 7-10 minutes of work, in the process I changed the emery circle twice. But you still need to work with pens!

Now we grind the outside. A belt sander makes life a lot easier!

We run the bucket from all accessible sides, with a belt up to 80.

after processing the 80th tape it turns out like this.

Now with pens! We smooth out the remnants with an emery cloth of the same grain size and then clean it with a finer one until it is smooth.

Then we wet it with water. Raise the pile and grind again gradually reducing the graininess

It is convenient to use such a sponge for this. I repeated the process 4 times, the result was fine. You can do more, you won't spoil the ladle with a sandpaper!

Now impregnation. I use regular flaxseed from the pharmacy. Some recommend a special bleached linseed oil, I have not tried it yet. First, pour it inside.

Oil appears on the ends literally before our eyes! Then I grease the entire surface thickly and leave it in the sun until it is absorbed, then repeat the process.

Soaked three times. Then I melt the wax in a water bath and apply it with a brush. Then I warm up the mug (without fanaticism !!!) to absorb the wax, wipe it with a dry cloth and that's it. (thunderous applause, turning into a standing ovation)

A stylized image of a horse's head is traditionally present in the works of Russian woodcarvers. The ends of an ochlupnya, ladles-brackets, casting ladles, ladles-scoops, as well as many other items for various purposes were decorated by folk craftsmen with the image of a handsome horse.

The bucket horse was conceived by the author as a purely decorative item. Therefore, there is no special protection of the bucket wood from moisture, only staining with stain is applied.
The bucket was cut from two aspen blanks - a block of Ø150 mm (for a bowl) and a board trimming 200x150x20 mm (for a handle). With such a cutting, there will be no end cuts, and therefore no cracks on the walls of the bowl, in addition, the process of applying a carved pattern is facilitated. The height of the sides of the bowl is 55 mm, the base of the bowl is Ø90 mm.
All the work is done by hand with chisels and a knife, but the bowl itself can be turned on a lathe. When making a bowl and a handle, it is better to maintain the given dimensions and proportions; they turned out to be the most successful both in compositional and technological terms.
Do not forget that when making even a decorative item, its shape must correspond to a real drinking bucket. A medium-sized hand should fit snugly around the "neck-handle" of this bucket for easy handling of the drinking vessel.
The bucket is decorated with a triangular notched carving with the following elements: a snake made of pebbles, a shine in a circle, fragments of shine and a honeycomb. A large set of threading elements is not desirable.
The marking of the carving elements along the walls of the bowl should be started with a glow in the circle. It is necessary to choose the diameter of the auroras in the ornamental ribbon so that the circles (limiting the rays of the auroras) touch each other at one point or, in extreme cases, leave a gap of no more than 1 mm between them.
The snake is marked using the center lines of the auroras in the circle. Along the midline, the snakes make a dihedral recess thread.
The drawing of the future thread on the neck-handle begins with marking the snake element along the perimeter of the part. In this case, it follows
step back from the edge of the workpiece by at least 3 mm. This will prevent chipping when threading. Having finished marking the snake, they enter the circles for the lights. There can be more than four of them, this is the taste of the carver.
On the edge of the neck-handle (the plane of the "mane"), a pattern of several touching snakes or touching diamond-shaped combs is marked. Then a bridle made of a honeycomb element is "applied".
The thread is made before gluing the parts. You can mark the entire pattern, and then carry out the carving, or, having marked and cut out the element, go on to the next one.
After all the carving has been completed, the bucket parts are tinted with a stain, allowed to dry and the relief of the carving is shown with sanding paper.
Having glued the bowl and the handle, the finished bucket is installed in the place prepared for it.

Toes and Buckets what is surprising about them? And how they were made. Tuyes, otherwise he is called Burak. This small vessel made of birch bark, striking in its simplicity and wisdom of design, was invented a long time ago. But to this day, craftsmen from the Russian North, the Urals and Siberia continue to make it. The peasants are well aware that the salt stored in the tuesa never flushes, and salted mushrooms and cucumbers are not only stored for a long time, but also acquire a pleasant aroma, so that the uninitiated sometimes find it difficult to believe that some spices have not been added to the salting.

But nevertheless, another advantage of tueska is most appreciated - water, milk or kvass remain cold in it for a long time, and hot water, on the contrary, does not get cold for a long time. That is why from olden times the tues was a frequent companion of the reaper, plowman, hunter, fisherman. The peasant more than once had to notice that even on the hottest days, when the sun beats mercilessly, the birch sap coming out of the trunk is always cold. This means that the birch bark reliably protects the birch trunk from overheating. This property of birch bark is explained by its structure. It consists of many thinnest layers that do not allow moisture and air to pass through, and the top layer is covered with a white coating that reflects the sun's rays. And the inner layers of birch bark have the most varied colors - from golden yellow to pinkish brown.

Narrow brownish lines, the so-called lentils, give the birch bark a unique decorative effect. These are the kind of windows through which the trunk breathes in summer. For the winter, these windows are tightly closed and filled with a special substance. Birch bark has high strength and is almost not rotting. It is known that the North Russian log house was knitted without a single nail. Likewise, without nails, glue and other foreign fasteners, birch bark tues work well.

The device of the tuesa resembles a thermos. It has an outer and inner walls, between which there is a small air insulating layer. On the inside of the walls, the white chalk surface reflects heat rays.

The inner wall should be free of a single crack: after all, it retains the liquid. At the outer wall, the task is different - to be beautiful and elegant. No wonder it is called a shirt. Some shirts were decorated with bright and rich painting.

Others - with lace cut ornaments or embossing, while others were woven from narrow strips of birch bark. For the inner part of the arbor, a skolotn is needed - this is a birch bark taken entirely from the trunk. You can only remove the beetle from a cut birch. We warn you that you cannot arbitrarily cut trees in the forest! Every year in the timber industry a planned felling is carried out, and the forest workers will allow to remove the birch bark from the fallen trees. It is best to remove the birch bark in spring and early summer, at which time it peels off easily from the trunk. Find a straight trunk with a smooth bark in the clearing, saw it into separate ridges, removing areas with knots. From a long ridge, you can remove several pieces of wood one by one, from short ones - one or two. In our picture, the length of the ridge is equal to the length of the skellet.

Removal of the skolotnya and the sequence for making the tues:
1 - peeling of birch bark;
2 - skloten and ridge;
3 - the shirt of the tues;
4 - a shirt worn on a skillet;
5 - production of willow hoops;
6 - wrapping the edges of the siolotn and inserting the bottom.

Whoever made whistles from a willow or linden branch in the spring knows very well that it is enough to lightly knock on the bark with the handle of a knife - and it can be easily removed with a "stocking". In approximately the same way, they remove the chickpea, using the simplest tools - a wooden hammer and wire. Bend the handle at one end of the thick wire, and pierce the working end on the anvil and round it off. The wire should not have sharp edges and burrs - they can scratch the birch bark.

Slide the wire up to about the middle of the ridge under the birch bark layer and carefully slide it in a circle around the trunk. Do the same operation from the other end. As soon as the birch bark is completely exfoliated from the trunk, knock the trunk out of the scrap with light blows of a hammer. All tree trunks have a so-called taper - a barely noticeable taper from the butt to the top.

It is imperative to take this into account and always remove the chip to swell towards the top, otherwise you risk breaking it.

Chunks can be prepared for future use, they are stored as long as you like. So that the chippings do not deform and take up too much space, the smaller chippings must be sequentially inserted into the largest chippings.

It is much easier to procure birch bark for shirts. Make cuts along the trunk with a knife and, lifting the edges with your hands, peel off the birch bark layer. Layered birch bark can also be prepared for future use. Straighten the pieces of birch bark and place them on a wooden board. On top of the foot of the birch bark, cover with another shield, on which you put the load. After drying, the birch bark will remain flat and easy to work with.

The proportions and sizes of future tuesques will depend on the harvested beef. Having chosen a suitable chisel, make a pattern for a shirt out of thick paper using it. Make the height of the shirt so that its upper and lower edges recede from the edges of the chisel by about 3-5 cm. Then wrap the chisel with paper so that one edge overlaps the other. This supply is required for the manufacture of the castle. Taking into account the diameter of the skolotnya on the shirt pattern, draw and cut out the elements of the lock. Lock the lock and put the pattern on the chisel. If the pattern fits snugly against the chisel, and the top and bottom edges are not skewed, the shirt pattern is correct. Place the pattern on a piece of layered birch bark and circle it with a pencil or an awl with a rounded end. Place the birch on the board and with a cutter using a metal ruler make cuts along the outlined contours. The shirt is ready, but you can make it smart if you want. In the picture in the title you see a dress with different designs for shirts. On one tuyeska, the decoration is a natural pattern of birch bark. The shirts of other tues are decorated with embossing, cut ornaments, painting, and at one tues the shirt is woven from narrow strips of birch bark. Such a shirt is woven right on the cleft. The painting is applied to the finished box, and the embossing and carving are performed on the shirt before putting it on the chisel.

Putting on the ready-made shirt on the skello, steam its protruding edges in boiling water. Then bend two hoops from a willow twig and fasten their ends with threads. The hoops should fit snugly against the cleaver. Now, wrap the steamed edges of the beetle around the willow hoops, running them over the shirt. The hoops give the edges of the walls a rounded shape and make the structure rigid.

Saw the bottom out of spruce or cedar wood. The diameter of the bottom should be several millimeters larger than the diameter of the inner walls of the container. Before inserting the bottom, strip the edges of the walls again. After that, the bottom can be easily inserted, and when the walls are dry, the bottom will firmly anchor in the tuyeska.

Cut the lid out of a spruce or cedar board with a small margin. Then, carefully cutting off the edges with a knife, adjust it to the basket. Make sure that the edges of the lid fit snugly against the sides of the enclosure. The lid should fit into the container with some effort. Choose the shape of the handle, taking into account the purpose of the container. If the container is intended for storing some products, and not for carrying, the handle can be made in the form of a poke. Cut a joke with a knife or grind it on a lathe, insert it into the hole drilled in the cover and hammer in a wedge from the bottom side for strength.

If the container is intended for carrying products over long distances, it is imperative to make a handle-bow. A simple bow is done like this. Drill two holes in the cover at an angle to each other. Then steam the willow twig slightly trimmed on one side in boiling water. Bending the rod in an arc, insert its ends into the holes. After drying, the rod will become rigid and firmly fixed in the lid. For reliability, the ends of the handle can be wedged.

But the most reliable and beautiful is the handle-bow with a lock - it is she who is shown in the drawing. Regardless of the size of the cupboard, such a handle has fairly constant proportions and sizes. Most often it is done on the hand of an adult. G. FEDOTOV Drawings by the author

From the willow wood, cut the handle blank (1a). Cut out two rectangular holes in cover 2. When marking the holes, make sure that the wood fibers on the cover run across the line where the holes are located. In the drawing, this line is shown in red.

Steam the blank of the handle in boiling water, carefully bend it into an arc (16) and insert the ends into the holes of the lid. In the protruding ends of the handle, drill two holes and use a chisel to shape them into a wedge. From the spruce, cut a wedge 3 and pin it into the holes of the bow. The wedge will firmly bind the lid to the handle. But it also has another purpose - being located across the fibers of the lid, it will not let it warp, especially if liquids are poured into the lid.

To test the tues, pour water into it and close the lid tightly. Taking the canopy by the handle, shake it strongly, swing it, turn it upside down. If the lid is fitted exactly, the tues will come out of this test with honor - not a single drop of water will pour out of it.

As you may have guessed, the lid and the back are firmly connected to each other due to frictional force and air pressure. This connection is so strong that it can withstand weights much greater than the weight of the water poured into it. For the same reason, it is quite difficult to open the lid without spilling the contents of the cupboard. Only the one who knows his "secret" can quickly and effortlessly open the door. And the secret is very simple. Instead of pulling the handle upwards, it must be carefully tilted, and as soon as the smallest gap appears between the cover of the container and the wall, the cover can be easily removed.

In conclusion, one more type of tues should be mentioned. These cups are intended only for storing bulk products or for picking berries. It is impossible to store and transfer liquids in them. Such tues are made from a layer of birch bark, which is fastened most often with a washcloth. The same material is used to tie the upper edge of the tues. The handle and lid are made in the same way as for chisel cups.

1. To prevent the wooden product from cracking and crumbling into pieces, it was boiled for 1-2 hours in a solution of ash alkali. After that, they were dried, and, if required, continued processing of thinner parts (cut out small "fittings").

Ash lye is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing textiles and for processing wood products. It is easy to make alkali - firewood is burned (I read that birch is best of all) to the state of white ash (ash). Ashes (ash) are filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used as fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants, since it does not contain "soap"), and water can be used for washing or for treating wood products.

2. In a strong broth of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (I don't remember exactly the time - it seems like a couple of hours), or soaked (here I remember the time - a day) products not only made of wood, but also all kinds of wicker products - from bast, flax, hemp, cane (I don't remember the whole list). Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes, increased their strength by an order of magnitude.

3. Any turpentine is obtained from the resin - pine resin. He is a wonderful solvent. Wax is thrown into it (not paraffin, but natural wax) and after dissolving, like varnish, the product is covered.
There is also a way of such a folk varnish - rosin, dissolved in turpentine.
The secret is to find the optimal ratio of ingredients. This can only be done empirically, since each locality has its own specific conditions (pine species, climate, soil, etc.).
As we were informed by the employee of the museum, where we purchased the product, it was not about coating, but about impregnation. And the product doesn't look varnished. It has partly the property of "suede" or "leather", since the substances have formed a tight bond. This technology has been developed over the years. And some say - To master it, you need to either look for such masters (there are not so few of them), or discover some secrets on a whim.

FINE PRODUCTS

LUKOSHKO-NABIRUHA

WASHER
for storing yarn and spindles

BREADER

DOWN AND CARVED

SKOPKAR BRATINA ENDOVA

In Russia, for a long time, they cut all kinds of shapes, sizes and purposes wooden dishes: ladles, skopkari, valleys and others. Today, several types of traditional Russian ladles are known: Moscow, Kozmodemyansk, Tver, Yaroslavl-Kostroma, Vologda, Severodvinsk, etc.

Rice. 1. Russian festive dishes. XVII-XIX centuries: 1 - burl boat-shaped Moscow ladle; 2 - a large Kozmodemyansk bucket; 3 - Kozmodemyansk buckets-scoops; 4 - Tver ladle “groom”; 5 - bucket of the Yaroslavl-Kostroma type; 6 - Vologda bucket-left hand; 7 - Severodvinsk skopkar; 8 - Tver valley; 9 - Severodvinsk valley.

For Moscow buckets, made of burls with a beautiful pattern of texture, bowls of a clear, even exquisite scaphoid shape with a flat bottom, a pointed nose and a short horizontal handle are characteristic. Due to the density and strength of the material, the walls of such vessels were often as thick as a nutshell. Burl dishes were often made in silver frames. Buckets of the 18th century are known, reaching a diameter of 60 cm.

Kozmodemyanskie buckets were hollowed out of linden. Their shape is scaphoid and very close to the shape of the Moscow buckets, but they are much deeper and larger in volume. Some of them reached a capacity of two, three, and sometimes four buckets. The handle is flat horizontal with a constructive addition of a purely local character - a slotted loop at the bottom.

Kozmodemyansk is also characterized by small ladles-scoops, which were used to scoop drinks from large bucket ladles. They are predominantly scaphoid, with a rounded, slightly flattened bottom. An almost vertically set, multi-tiered handle in the form of an architectural structure extending from the bottom is decorated with a through carving ending with the image of a horse, less often a bird.

Tver buckets are noticeably different from the Moscow and Kozmodemyansky ones. Their originality lies in the fact that they are hollowed out from the root of a tree. Maintaining mostly the shape of a rook, they are more elongated in width than in length, which makes them appear flattened. The bow of the bucket, as is usually the case with scaphoid vessels, is raised upward and ends with two or three horse heads, for which the Tver buckets were named “grooms”. The handle of the bucket is straight, faceted, the upper edge is usually decorated with ornamental carvings.

The buckets of the Yaroslavl-Kostroma group have a deep rounded, sometimes flattened scaphoid bowl, the edges of which are slightly curved inward. In earlier buckets, the bowl is raised on a low pallet. Their handles are carved in the form of a curly loop, their nose is in the form of a cock's head with a sharp beak and beard.

Vologda bucket-nozzles are intended for scooping drinks from large buckets-skopkars. They are characterized by a scaphoid shape and a round spherical bottom; as a rule, they were suspended from a large bucket. Hook-shaped handles were decorated with cut ornaments in the form of ducks.

In the Russian North, skopkari buckets were carved from the root of a tree. A skopkar is a scaphoid vessel, similar to a ladle, but with two handles, one of which must be in the form of a bird's or a horse's head. For household purposes, skopkari are divided into large, medium and small. Large and medium - for serving drinks on the table, small - for individual use, like small cups.

Severodvinsk skopkari were also cut from the root. They have a clear boat-shaped shape, the handles are processed in the form of the head and tail of a waterfowl, and in all their appearance they resemble a waterfowl.

Along with ladles and skopkarya, valleys or "yandovs" were the decoration of the festive table.

Endova - a low bowl with a toe for draining. Large valleys held up to a bucket of liquid. Tver and Severodvinsk variants are known. The best Tver valleys are cut from burl. They represent a bowl on an oval or cube-shaped pallet with a gutter-shaped drain and a handle. The endova of the Severodvinsk type has the shape of a round bowl on a low base, with slightly bent edges, with a half-open toe in the form of a groove, sometimes figuratively carved. The handle is very rare. The initial processing of the described objects was carried out with an ax, the depth of the vessel was hollowed out (chosen) with an adze, then leveled with a scraper. The final external processing was carried out with a cutter and a knife. Samples of Russian wooden tableware demonstrate high craftsmanship developed by more than one generation of folk craftsmen.

It is difficult to say when the manufacture of wooden carved utensils began on the territory of Russia. The earliest find of a ladle dates back to the 2nd millennium BC. e. Archaeological excavations on the territory of Kievan Rus and Novgorod the Great indicate that the production of wooden dishes was already developed in the X-XII centuries. In the XVI - XVII centuries. the dishes made of wood were made by the serfs of the landowners and monastic peasants or archers. The production of wooden dishes and spoons was widely developed in the 17th century, when the demand for them increased both in the city and in the countryside. In the XIX century. with the development of industry and the appearance of metal, porcelain, earthenware and glass dishes, the need for wooden dishes is sharply reduced. Its production is maintained mainly in the fishing areas of the Volga region.

Nowadays buckets, scoops and table buckets are one of the favorite types of wood crafts. Arkhangelsk craftsmen, preserving the traditional basis of the North Russian ladle, prefer not to varnish the velvety wood surface, slightly tinted in silvery or light brown tones. The masters of the Khotkovo craft near Moscow have created their own image of a modern ladle, a ladle-bowl, a ladle-vase that decorates the festive table (Fig. 2). They are characterized by a powerful plasticity of forms, an unusual surface that gleams with inner light and a pleasant tone. A bucket-sail with a high-raised, spread-out sail-handle, on which, as a rule, a bush of the famous Kudrinsky ornament is carved, has become traditional for fishing.

Exhibitions of Russian wooden spoons at VMDPNI. Let's take a closer look at these products. Further - photos and texts directly from the exhibition itself.

Spoons-scoops
Yakutia, Suntarsky ulus, s. Toybohoy, early XX century
Wood, burl of birch, chiselling, carving

A spoon is one of those objects that accompanies a person almost from birth to the end of days. How many proverbs and beliefs are associated with it! However, do we often wonder if she was always the way we used to see her? ..

Shaman's spoon
Yakutia, Suntarsky ulus, s. Toybohoy, late 19th century
Wood, chiselling, carving

We are glad to present you an exhibition project, in which we tried to show all the diversity of the usual wooden spoon... Indeed, it is sometimes difficult to imagine that a scoop-ladle can reach a length of one and a half meters, and some spoons become truly magical objects, being the shaman's faithful companions.

Top down: Ladle

Cap, chiselling, carving. Collection of V. B. Karpov
A spoon
Khabarovsk Territory, Nivkh masters, 2006
Wood (walnut), carving, toning. Collection of V. B. Karpov
Baby nanai spoons
V. Donkan, 1974
Khabarovsk Territory, with. Sikachi-alian
Wood, carving, color engraving

The spoons presented at the exhibition from the museum collection - from 19th century ladles to designer spoons of the late 1960s - organically complement the collection of modern carved spoons by Viktor Borisovich Karpov, collected by him in different parts of our country. Objects made of it, made of different types of wood, unusually convey the beauty of the texture of natural wood.

Left: Bear meat scoop
Didi Cherul, 1890s
Khabarovsk Territory, with. Koyma. Wood, carving
On right: Tray
Didi Cherul, 1890s
Khabarovsk Territory, with. Koyma
Wood, chiselling, carving, touch-up
Nivkh spoons for the bear holiday
Khabarovsk Territory, der. Ukhta, s. Romanovka, first quarter XX
Wood, carving, touch-up
Below: A spoon
2013, acquired in Moscow
Wood (walnut), carving. Collection of V. B. Karpov

The history of making a spoon has more than one millennium. So, according to the evidence of archaeological excavations, already five thousand years ago in Ancient Egypt they used spoons made of stone and wood, and in Greece - special shells.

Nanai Shaman's Spoon
Khabarovsk Territory, 2006
Wood (alder), carving. Collection of V. B. Karpov

Spoons entered everyday use in Europe in the Middle Ages and were mainly wooden and horny. And in Russia the spoon was already known in the 10th century, at the time of Prince Vladimir - references to this can be found in the "Tale of Bygone Years". The familiar oval shape of a spoon with a long handle became especially widespread by the middle of the 18th century.

Composition of three spoons 2015, acquired in Moscow
Walnut burl, carving, toning. Collection of V.B. Karpova

For a simple peasant, a spoon was one of the few personal things, and “their” spoon was often marked in a special way. But, like many traditional cultural objects, the spoon was not just a part of everyday life. She played an important role in the rituals, personifying a family member; the newlyweds were always given a wooden painted spoon for the wedding; it was also a necessary attribute of some Christmas divination.

Udegey spoon (south)... Wood, carving

In addition, the spoon has become one of the favorite Russian folk musical instruments. The spoon was decorated with skillful carving, colorful painting, and sometimes even inlaid with mother-of-pearl or metal.

Our exhibition features more than 120 spoons from various regions of Russia - from Arkhangelsk to Yakutia. A diverse range of subjects is complemented by graphic sketches from the expeditions of the Research Institute of Chemical Industry of the 1960s, as well as rare photographs and sketches from the archives of V.M. Vishnevskaya, V.A. Baradulin and others.

Top right: Souvenir scoops
Karachay-Cherkess Association of Art Crafts and Souvenir Production, 1977

Bottom right: Ladle
Essentuki, 2001
Mahogany (yew, snag), chiselling, carving, collection of V. B. Karpov
A spoon
Wood (walnut), Moldavia carving, 2003, collection of V. B. Karpov
Bottom left: Composition of a ladle and three spoons
Essentuki, 2001
Sophora (Caucasian acacia), carving, collection of V.B. Karpova
Bottom left in the corner: Snake spoon 2004, acquired in Moscow
Wood (juniper), carving, collection of V.B. Karpova
Top left from bottom to top: Decorative spoon 2000, acquired in Moscow
Mahogany, carving, collection of V. B. Karpov
Scoop spoon
Wood (pink acacia), carving. Moldova, 2003, collection of V. B. Karpov
Scoop spoon
Wood (cherry root), carving. Moldova, 2003, collection of V. B. Karpova

The earliest of the items presented are ladles made in the 19th century in the Russian North and in the Volga region. Among others there are spoons of the Sergiev Posad region at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries, including the spoons of I.S. Khrustachev with scenes from the life of Sergius of Radonezh, striking with their finest miniature carving.

Ladle and spoon sketches... From the album "Artistic woodworking in Western Siberia".
A. Artemov, Moscow, NIIKhP, 1972. Cardboard, watercolor, pencil.

A special place at the exhibition is occupied by decorative ladles made in the Russian style by the outstanding craftsman V.P. Vornoskov in the workshops of the village of Kudrin and A.P. Zinoviev in Talashkino.

Spoons... Kazakhstan. Wood, carving, burning.

And, of course, it was impossible to do without the famous Khokhloma spoons at the exhibition, made in the Nizhny Novgorod village of Semin and the city of Semyonov, which is often called the "spoon capital".

Left below: Draft spoon
Dagestan, s. Kumukh, early XX century
Wood (acacia), chiselling, carving
Center left: Scoop "Gel"
G.G. Gazimagomedov, 1990, Dagestan, p. Untsukul
Wood (apricot), cupronickel, carving, notching, varnish
Top left: Cutlery set with spoons
G.G. Gazimagomedov, 1989, Dagestan, p. Untsukul
Wood (apricot), metal, carving, turning, notching, varnish; wood (apricot), carving, varnish

Left: Boat spoons
Dagestan, early XX century
Wood (boxwood; mountain oak), carving, toning, graphic ligature
On right: A spoon on a long handle for stirring festive halva - byahuh
Dagestan, s. Kuyad, first third of the XX century.
Wood (oak), carving
Brought from the expedition by E.M. Schilling 1944

Already at the end of the 19th century, the products of local craftsmen enjoyed well-deserved success at the Nizhny Novgorod fair. We present in this section of the exhibition the most valuable examples of the 1920s - 1960s, which rarely leave museum funds.

Among the spoons from other regions are those brought from expeditions to Dagestan in 1944-1946. the famous ethnographer-Caucasian expert E.M. Shilling, as well as extraordinary works from the Avar village of Untsukul. It is renowned for its woodcarving craft, which combines various arts and crafts such as woodcarving and jewelery. In the complex dedicated to the Far East and Yakutia, you will see Nivkh spoons for the bear holiday and a rare shaman spoon.

Sketch of a spoon and scoop with Khokhloma painting.
1950s - first half of 1980s Watercolor on paper

Drawing. Spoons from the collection of the State Historical Museum. 1950s - first half of 1980s Watercolor on paper

The collection includes decorative unpainted spoons made from various types of trees.

Spoons and scoops with painting of the Khokhloma type
Nizhny Novgorod region, 1920s - 1960s, Wood, carving, painting

For the manufacture of decorative spoons, craftsmen use wood of almost all species, except for pine and spruce. The blank for the future spoon is called "baklusha". It must be well dried beforehand so that the spoon does not "lead" during manufacture. Natural drying takes up to six months, but now craftsmen are increasingly using special ovens for this.

Artists of the artel "Khokhloma painting" M.M. Artamonov and F.F. Sirotina, 1959

The expression "beat the thumbs up" arose due to the fact that the initial stages of making wooden spoons - splitting logs into thumbs, roughing the thumbs up, were previously carried out not by a master, but by an assistant-apprentice. Initially, the expression had the meaning of "doing a very simple thing", and later acquired a different meaning - "to sit back, spend time idly."

Spoons
Gorky region, the village of Polkhovsky Maidan, 1960-1970s.
Wood, carving, painting, varnish

When working on a spoon, the master takes into account the type and texture of the wood. The softest and most pliable wood for processing is from linden, alder, aspen, therefore these species are most popular with craftsmen. The wood structure of such spoons is monochromatic and not bright.

N.G. Podogov and F.A. Bedin

Birch and oak are harder and have a pronounced beautiful structure.

Buckets
Arkhangelsk province., XIX century; Vologda province., Der. Shevelevskaya, late XIX - early XX centuries.
Wood, chiselling, carving

In fruit trees (apple, pear, plum, cherry, peach) the wood is even harder and more colorful, with a patterned structure. The most interesting patterns on spoons are given by a pear, and the type of patterns depends to a large extent on the soil on which the tree grew. Craftsmen also use "dark" wood, for example, persimmon, walnut.

Ladle
A.P. Zinoviev, 1900s
Smolensk province., Talashkino
Wood, chiselling, carving, toning, tint, waxing

The skill of the master is to “guess” the inner beauty of the wood pattern and to show it most interestingly in the form of a finished product, which can be clearly seen in the displayed exhibits.

Ladle; bucket
A.P. Zinoviev, 1900s
Smolensk province., Talashkino, Talashkino art workshops
Wood, copper, river stone, coins; chiselling, carving, burning out, toning, tinting, waxing, chasing

Miniature buckets
V.P. Vornoskov, 1902-1910
Moscow province, Dmitrovsky district , der. Kudrino
Wood, chiselling, carving, toning, varnish

Decorative bucket
V.P. Vornoskov, 1905-1910

Wood, carving, toning, varnish

Ladle

Moscow province., Dmitrovsky u., Der. Kudrino

Comes from the collection of M.O.

Bucket bucket
V.P. Vornoskov, 1900-1905
Moscow province., Dmitrovsky u., Der. Kudrino
Wood, chiselling, carving, toning, tint, varnish
Comes from the collection of M.O.

Bucket bucket
V.P. Vornoskov, 1902-1905
Moscow province., Dmitrovsky u., Der. Kudrino
Wood, chiselling, carving, toning, tint, varnish
Comes from the collection of M.O.

Up: Spoons
Zagorsk, 1920s
Wood, carving, painting, varnish
At the bottom: Dragon Shaped Spoon
Russia (?), Early XX century.
Wood, carving, toning

Left: Sour cream spoon (for the right hand)
Nizhny Novgorod province, der. Medvedevo, 1930s
Wood, carving
On right: Scoops and spoons with bone, mother-of-pearl and beaded inserts
Nizhny Novgorod province. and the city of Sergievsky Posad, the first third of the XX century.

Fish spoons
Purchased in Moscow, 2000
Wood (oak), carving collection of V. B. Karpov

Spoons with scenes from the life of St. Sergius of Radonezh
Moscow province, Sergievsky Posad, 2nd floor. XIX century. - early. XX centuries.
Wood (cypress), carving
"St. Sergius of Radonezh"
“The apparition of the Mother of God to St. Sergius "
"St. Sergius of Radonezh and the Bear "(carver I. Khrustachev)
"St. Sergius in front of his departed parents "

Blessing spoons
Nizhny Novgorod province, der. Medvedevo, early XX century
Wood, carving, inlay (beads, mother-of-pearl), toning

Blessing gesture with spoons near

From the album A. A. Bobrinsky “Folk Russian wooden products. Household, household and partly church items ”.

Bucket sketches
From the album "Folk woodcarving of the Yaroslavl region of the 17th-20th centuries."
L. B. Muzalevsky, 1971 Cardboard, paper, gouache, pencil
From the album "Folk decorative art in the collections of museums in Novgorod, Pskov, Uglich".
V.M. Vishnevskaya, Moscow, NIIHP, 1962 Cardboard, paper, watercolor

Close up: Buckets-scoops of goat-modemyan type
Vologda province. (?), The Volga region of the 19th century.
Wood, chiselling, carving
Comes from the collection of the Museum of Samples of the Handicraft Museum of the Moscow Provincial Zemstvo
In the distance: Bucket
Vologda, 2005
Wood (alder), carving, toning, collection of V. B. Karpov
Ladle
Uglich, 2009
Wood (aspen), carving, toning, collection of V. B. Karpov

Drawing. Two spoons and a salt shaker
1950s - 1980s
Watercolor on paper

Left: Leaning bucket
Vologda province. (?), XVIII century. (?)
Wood, chiselling, carving
On right: Leaning bucket
Vologda province, XIX century
Wood, chiselling, carving
Comes from the collection of the Museum of Samples of the Handicraft Museum of the Moscow Provincial Zemstvo

Ladle
Russian North (?), Early XX century
Wood, chiselling, carving, coloring
Comes from the MO collection

Ladle
Northern Dvina, second half of the 19th century.
Wood, chiselling, carving, painting

At the bottom: Spoon "Balaam", 2004
Wood (juniper), carving, collection of V. B. Karpov
Up: A spoon
Nizhny Novgorod province. (?), 1920s
Wood, carving, painting

Pizhema-type painted spoons
M.T. Chuprov, P. Ya. Myandin, 1960s
Rep. Komi, Ust-Tsilemsky district With. Tansy, der. Zamezhnaya
Wood, carving, painting

From the album A. A. Bobrinsky “Folk Russian wooden products. Household, household and partly church items ”.

The article uses materials from the exhibition "Wooden spoon" in the VMDPNI.

Wellness procedures in the steam room are impossible without bath accessories. In particular, a ladle is required for douche or steam generation. This accessory can be purchased at a specialty store or you can make your own.

Types and material of buckets for a bath

There are models in different sizes and shapes. Buckets are distinguished by the type of holder:

• With vertical handle... Suitable for scooping up water from the boiler.
• With horizontal handle... Used for douches. In the absence of a scoop, such a ladle can be used to supply water or a decoction of herbs to the heater.

Bucket holders are usually long. This is necessary for the convenience of pouring, and also so as not to burn yourself with steam if you have to pour water on hot stones.

By type of capacity, buckets are:

1. Carved... They are cut from logs. Such models look aesthetically pleasing, but require special care. In particular, the wooden bath ladle should not be left in a dry room, otherwise it will quickly crack. To prolong its life, it is recommended to fill it with water between uses and keep it wet.
2. Composite... The capacity of such a bucket is a small "barrel" and has an original design. Such a model does not crack, but it must be stored in the same way as the previous one - in water. Otherwise, the bucket will dry out.

Traditionally for the manufacture of these accessories are used:

• Tree... In terms of its performance characteristics, this material is optimally suited for use in a steam room. It is environmentally friendly and safe. However, the product requires careful maintenance for a long service life.
• Stainless steel or copper... Practical and convenient metal buckets can be used and stored in any conditions. Their only drawback is strong heating. Metal products can burn you. Therefore, most often, for safety reasons, such buckets are equipped with a wooden handle.
• Plastic... Such models are highly undesirable to use in a steam room. If the bucket is made of poor quality plastic, then it can suddenly deform when it comes into contact with hot water. Although polycarbonate products are highly heat resistant.

You can purchase a ready-made production model or make a diy bath bucket.

Features of the choice of a bath ladle

You can buy a finished product in a specialized store or order online.

It is advisable to have several buckets in the bath for different purposes:

1. Several people can be in the steam room and the wash compartment at the same time. It will be convenient if a bucket is provided for each vacationer.
2. Separately, there should be a model with a long horizontal handle for supplying water to stones.
3. It is more convenient to draw water from the boiler with a ladle with a long vertical handle.
4. For pouring in the washing compartment, a product with a medium-length handle is ideal.

It is recommended to give preference to safe wooden accessories. They will cost a lot, especially the models of folk craftsmen. But you can be sure that they will not burn you when heated.

Manufacturing technology of a wooden ladle in a bath

To make a bucket for a bath yourself, you must initially decide on its size, length and position of the handle, material of manufacture, type of container. Having chosen a model, it is advisable to initially make blanks from thick cardboard.

Selection of material for a bath ladle

First, choose the type of wood you will be using.

Optimal options for these purposes:

• Linden... Practical wood with a pleasant aroma and original texture. Ideal for making all bath accessories. Does not rot or crack. Flexible to processing.
• Oak... Strong and durable material. It has an interesting rich shade.
• Ash... Light and aromatic wood. Withstands large temperature drops.
• Mulberry... Differs in moisture resistance and durability.

To make a wooden bucket for a bath with your own hands, it is recommended to use a dry tree.

Do-it-yourself carved ladle for a bath

This method of making a bucket is considered uncomplicated, but it will require certain inclinations of a carpenter and a set of tools. Decide on the type of wood and start processing.

Consider how to make a carved ladle in a bath:

1. On thick cardboard we draw templates for the bottom of the bucket, its top and side walls. It should not turn out to be too bulky, since it will be difficult to carry it filled with water. However, if it is too small, then the water will have to be drawn more often. The optimal size is up to two liters.
2. Cut out the blanks and mark the edge contour lines on the wood with a pencil.
3. We make a rough stump.
4. We mark the contour of the sides and top and make a stump along the approximate outline of the bucket.
5. We process the resulting workpiece with a round chisel, remove the excess layers of wood.
6. We form the handle of the product with the help of a chisel.
7. With Tesla we process the inner sides and once again go through with a large chisel.
8. Using a knife, we cut out the handle of the desired shape and the entire product on wood. If you have artistic skills, you can make original patterns as decor.
9. We process the product inside with cranberry.
10. We process the outer surface with sanding coarse-grained paper and go to the inner one.
11. With chisels, if desired, we cut out decorative patterns.

How to make a composite ladle in a bath

You can make such a model without special cooper skills. To do this, you need a board, a pen, a base, and a metal rim.

We adhere to the following instructions in the process:

• Cut out a plank with dimensions of 1x2.1 cm.
• We sharpen the sides at an angle of 12 degrees.
• We cut 15 pieces of 8 cm each.
• We mill a groove along the bottom of all strips, its depth should be 0.4 cm, and its width should be 0.8 cm.
• Round the sharp corners of the end sides. These will be the boards for the product.
• Preparing the handle. To do this, we use a planed board, the dimensions of which are 1.5x7.5x38 cm.
• We cut out a part of a convenient shape and round off the sharp corners.
• We drill a hole with a diameter of 0.8-1 cm at the end and thread a loop of rope into it.
• Cut out the base from a 1x9 cm planed board and grind the circle down to 0.6 cm, and to the radius - up to 0.8 cm.
• We drill two through holes with a diameter of 0.4 cm in the main board. They will be used for fastening with sharp self-tapping screws with a pressed washer (0.4x2.5 cm).
• We collect all the individual planks around the base, driving the bottom into the lower pre-made grooves.
• We squeeze the structure using twine.
• We prepare two hoops. To do this, we choose a cold-rolled, low-carbon, soft, packing tape made of steel, with dimensions of 0.4x0.2 cm.
• We make three holes in the prepared hoops with a diameter of 0.16 cm for construction nails 0.16x2.5 cm.
• We fill the first hoop from below at a height of 0.5 cm.
• Shorten the nails from 2.5 cm to 0.8 cm and attach the top hoop 1 cm from the top edge.
• We fix the handle with self-tapping screws with a pressed washer.
• We lower the ladle into the water for a while.

After the wood swells, all cracks will disappear. Be sure to store such a product in water to prevent drying out.

Bath ladle care

A copper ladle for a bath can be operated at large temperature differences and stored in any conditions. But wooden models require more serious maintenance.

Compliance with these simple rules will significantly extend the service life of the accessories and help keep them in their original form:

1. Before the first use, a wooden bucket must be soaked for an hour.
2. Store it full of water and away from the sun or heating appliances.
3. It is strictly forbidden to clean a wooden product with chemical detergents. It is better to use mustard powder and soda for this purpose.

What a bucket for a bath looks like - watch the video:

Our recommendations and reviewed features of each type of bucket will help you, if necessary, choose the right production model. Although a multifunctional and original wooden bucket for a bath is easy to make and design with your own hands, if you take into account all the nuances of the selection of materials and the workflow.