How to make a wall lamp yourself. How to make a lampshade (plafond) at home

Lighting devices can not only dispel the darkness, but also give an unusual aura to your interior.

There are many different ideas with which you can make a wall lamp or any other type of lamp with your own hands.

You yourself are able to create a masterpiece that is not in any store.

Creating an extravagant chandelier

A very original thing is obtained from the simplest materials, most of which can be saved after a picnic. Lamps from various containers will look spectacular.

For this you will need:

oval plastic bottle with a capacity of 5 liters;
disposable spoons;
cable with cartridge and plug;
low power LED lamp;
pliers;
glue gun;
screwdriver;
stationery knife.

To avoid fire, use only LED bulb!

With a knife, carefully cut off the bottom of the bottle, then remove the handles from all plastic spoons. Apply a small amount of hot glue from a gun to the cut point, glue them on the bottom of the container.

Approximately you will need about seventeen pieces. Place the next and remaining rows in a checkerboard pattern.

In order to hide the neck of the bottle, put ten to twelve spoons without a handle on the glue so that they form a ring.

Pull the cartridge with the lamp and cable through the hole at the bottom of the bottle.

If you do not want to make this part yourself, you can purchase it in any department of household goods - the wire, cartridge and plug are already connected together.

Make a hole in the lid for the cord by drilling it with a drill or a hot self-tapping screw. Screw on the lid, put on the previously prepared ring of spoons on top. The exclusive LED luminaire is ready for operation.

A few ideas for creating lampshades

It is enough just to create a lamp from improvised materials for a house or a summer residence.

Idea N1

any hollow dishes (it can be an old pan or flower pot);
wire;
polyurethane foam and gloves;
paint and brush;
sharp knife;
pliers.

Place the object taken as a basis upside down. Wind the wire around the product the way you want to see the lampshade, since all the turns copy its shape. Put on gloves and squeeze the foam a little bit onto the frame so that it completely covers the wire, leave to dry.

Then, using a knife, give the contours more evenness and paint in any color. This option will be the best for a street lamp.

Idea N2 is a classic

thick wire;
pliers;
small water bottle.

Note!

To make the upper central element on the bottle, wind a coil of wire, then remove it and cut off the excess. The ends must be fixed so that they form a ring, the diameter of which should allow the cartridge to pass through at the bottom, and prevent it from coming out at the top.

Next, you need to make a large outer ring from the wire. To secure it, you will need four equal pieces of wire. Connect one edge of each with a small one, and the other with a large ring. The upper part of the lamp is ready.

The largest will be the lower circle of wire, it must be attached to the second upper one, evenly placing five identical pieces of wire.

To decorate the frame, pass the wire through the second upper ring, giving it a wavy shape, wind it onto the base. Do the same for the bottom ring.

Note!

On a walk through the forest, take an interestingly shaped branch with you, an excellent wooden lamp will come out of it. Wash the branch and peel off the bark from it with a knife, varnish it for wood. For good stability, screw the lamp to a heavy stand with screws, it can also serve as a tree.

A better option is an oak, find a broken branch and saw off a circle of at least five centimeters thick from it. Coat it with varnish or paint it too.

Making a lampshade with children

There is an option for making a lampshade with children. For the frame, you need a canister or bottle with a capacity of five liters. You need to roll the paper strips into a tube, it is best to wind them around a pencil or sushi stick, then glue the remaining edge with glue.

These blanks must be glued to the frame in several layers so that there are no gaps. When the glue dries, you can put the lampshade on a table lamp or make a ceiling lamp that looks very unusual.

Experienced needlewomen can knit or crochet a lampshade, decorating it with knitted flowers and ribbons.

To give the product the correct shape, you can use a starch solution or ordinary PVA glue. Look at the proposed photos of knitted lamps, how much tenderness and comfort they have!

Note!

This article told you how to make a lamp with your own hands. Using the information received and your own imagination, now you can create an exclusive lighting fixture for any room.

DIY lamp photo

In modern interior design, where things and colors are correctly selected, correctly installed lighting prevails most of all. Thanks to lighting devices, it is possible to highlight different areas of the premises, visually expand or reduce the space, while giving coziness and comfort in the living room or bedroom. Of course, you can buy a lamp or create a sconce with your own hands from improvised means. The last option is economical while allowing you to make the design at your discretion.

Fashion does not stand still, but moves in a circle, so now crystal sconces are no longer so popular, and wooden lamps are considered a sign of luxury. Not everyone knows that in the 16th century wooden structures were installed in palaces and churches. As you understand, there was no electricity at that time, so candles were used as a lighting element, which were installed on wooden stands. To date, it is possible to produce sconces at home, both for candles and for electric light bulbs.

As you know, any material has its pros and cons, and wood has its own special qualities that must be taken into account when making a lamp made of wood:

Wood is considered the most environmentally friendly material, containing resins emit useful aromas, due to which the air in the room is filled with useful microelements, which, in turn, is beneficial for the respiratory tract of the human body.
Easy processing of manufactory - for the production of steel and plastic elements for decorative lighting, special equipment is required, and this is a big expense. To make a sconce with your own hands from wood, you only need the usual tools that almost every home craftsman has.
Wood has a special strength and durability, especially if the material is impregnated with special agents.
From wood, you can create exclusive carved, prefabricated or combined lamps that will not only decorate your interior, but also stand out favorably, emphasizing the refined taste of their owners.

Disadvantages of wooden sconces

Before you start making wood with your own hands, you need to take into account and take all safety measures, as well as develop a future wall sconce project. It must be remembered that light bulbs should not come into contact with wood and other elements of the lamp. Let's take a closer look at several models of wall sconces.

Wooden structures for lighting fixtures

Other options for combining wood and metal have different directions. It can be a metal lampshade with a wooden base or a torch-shaped lamp and the hand that holds it. For connoisseurs of wood, we can offer the manufacture of sconces only from wood or plywood. It all depends on your imagination and the material at hand.

bamboo lamp

A beautiful lamp can be made from an old lamp and bamboo sticks tied with coconut fiber rope. The device is elementary, three bamboo sticks are connected to each other. Two are vertical, and one between them is horizontal and is attached to the wall. The lampshade from the old lamp is attached with a rope to a horizontal bamboo stick. This design can be placed in the house, on the porch or gazebo.

Lamps for a child's room or bedroom

A beautiful wall night light for a nursery can be made from a sheet of fiberboard or plywood. An example is the design of an ordinary birdhouse.

To do this, the details of the sidewalls, roof, bottom are cut with a manual or electric jigsaw. On the reverse side, self-made fasteners are installed, after which the product is painted and electrical components are installed.

The main features in the design of the lamp

When working with wood, wear gloves and goggles.
How to make and connect a sconce with one light bulb - in this case there should be two wires, the phase passes through the switch, and zero is connected to the blue output wire. The more lamps, the more wires, but the connection principle remains the same.

Location of wall lights:

The height of the sconce from the floor in the bedroom should not exceed 1.6 meters.
In the children's room, you need to hang lamps at an inaccessible distance for children.
In corridors with a high ceiling, installation takes place at a height of two meters from the floor, if the room has a low ceiling, then lighting fixtures can be mounted at a distance of 1.8 meters. For the living room 1.4 meters.

In custody

You can make your own unique and unusual lamp from various improvised items that can be found in your garage or shed. As a result of such modifications of old things, you will get a stylish handmade lamp. As a result, you saved on the purchase of sconces and at the same time freed the shelves from old trash.

Handmade projects help us add brightness to the interior, make it individual. One of the options is to make a lamp for the house with your own hands. Unusual details, materials, ideas and a little creativity - and the design product is ready.

DIY lamps: interesting ideas

There are many models of lamps that you can make yourself. They differ in design, style, size. A wide variety of materials are suitable for their manufacture - paper, vine, plastic cups, yarn, fabric, glass bottles, plastic bags, wooden hoops, wire, veneer, old things or what is left after repair, etc. The easiest option is to make do-it-yourself lampshade and purchase a ready-made wiring system with a base. It is available even to the very beginners in needlework and creativity.

Wall lamps

You can install a beautiful home-made lamp on the wall near the bed, including in the children's room. Most often, unusual lampshades made of wood, fabric, and vines are made for this. But there are more original options.

At the dacha, we made a lamp from two cans of 0.75 liters and two pieces of board with unevenly cut edges. The boards are interconnected at right angles, and the whole structure is installed on the wall of the house under the porch. Cartridges are screwed into the cans-plafonds, into which LED lamps are inserted. A lamp of this style is ideal for a country house or a rustic-style interior.

Photo gallery: do-it-yourself wall lamps

Vine is an interesting material for creating original lampshades It is very easy to make and at the same time lamps from the board look stylish. Threads, glue and balloons - everything you need to create beautiful lamps From the board you can make different options for lamps A bizarre driftwood - an unusual base for a wall lamp Clouds cut out of plywood can be used to create a night light Even pallets can be adapted to create a beautiful DIY lamp

Table, floor lamps

From improvised materials, it is easy to update a floor lamp or make a new table lamp in ethnic style, hi-tech, or others. Beads, ribbons, and paper clippings are used for decoration.

Photo gallery: interesting models of do-it-yourself table lamps

The eco-style interior can be updated by making a floor lamp with a wooden lampshade Long and thin branches, connected together in a bundle, attached to a stable support, are used to create a floor lamp. The frame from the old lampshade can be decorated with beads - you get a new lamp Ribbons and beads can be used as the main material for a new lampshade or as decoration. Fabric lampshades - perfect for a table lamp in the bedroom The lamp can be made from water pipes The lampshade for a floor lamp is easy to knit with knitting needles The original lamp is obtained from the lids of aluminum cans

Pendant lamps

Ceiling lamps made of yarn are common, with which balloons are wrapped, and then the entire structure is covered with glue. For many, such a simple option is the first test in this type of needlework. Chandeliers made of driftwood, bottles or hanging structures made of plastic pipes look more spectacular.

Photo gallery: do-it-yourself hanging lamps

Driftwood chandelier - a bright and stylish item for the living room From beads you can quickly and easily make a beautiful chandelier Wooden material used for the manufacture of lamps must be varnished You can decorate a kitchen or a country house with a bottle lamp Plastic spoons are used to make beautiful lamps in the shape of a pineapple, a ball, etc. Lamp made of metal graters - a stylish and functional decor for the kitchen The remains of water pipes and connecting fasteners - an unusual material for a ceiling lamp

How to make a lamp

Paper - corrugated, colored, geographical maps, cardboard, wallpaper, bags and other types - is one of the best materials for crafts. A simple paper butterfly lamp can be made quickly and effortlessly. To do this, you need a frame from an old lampshade, a metal ring or just a wire, from which the basis for the product is made. Then it remains just to cut out the butterflies and attach them to the frame with silicone glue or, for example, hang them on a wire. It doesn't take long to make a table lamp out of plastic pipes or spoons, although projects are more complex than paper chandeliers.

Paper butterflies for a homemade chandelier can be cut according to the template with the children

Origami paper bag lamp: step by step instructions

Such a lamp can be made wall, table or pendant. For work you will need:

ready-made electrical base for the lamp - a wire with a cartridge and a switch, a plug (for a table lamp or floor lamp);
lampshade stand (you can take it from the old one or use improvised materials for this, for example, a thick branch);
paper bag with an interesting print - 2 pcs. (when gluing, they must be at least 0.5 m long);
LED lamp;
thick thread and needle.

Operating procedure:

Cut the bottom off the paper bags and remove the handles.
Glue the resulting pieces into one, fold in half and then into an accordion. You should get 16 strips of the same width.
Prepared packages are folded into an accordion
Fold each strip diagonally. This part of the workpiece will subsequently be the top.
The paper blank must be bent accordingly, in order to then make a lampshade out of it.
On the opposite side, which remained flat, also bend each strip diagonally. This part is shorter.
All folds on the packages must be symmetrical and even.
Carefully unfold the packages and bend the blank along the resulting folds so that you get a lampshade.
The folds on the paper form a three-dimensional figure resembling a berry
From above (where the folds are longer) sew the workpiece with a thick thread.
To keep the lampshade in shape, it is fastened with a thread in the upper part.
Then insert a cartridge with a wire inside the lampshade, screw in the LED lamp and hang the structure on the stand.
Since paper burns well, it is better to use LED lamps in the lamp.

Diode chandelier from cartridges-splitters

An ergonomic and unusual loft-style chandelier can be made from socket-splitters for diode lamps. The finished structure is painted in any color suitable for the interior of the room. It is important to firmly fix all the details. For work you will need:

ceiling socket - 1 pc.;
cartridges-splitters - up to 12 pcs.;
lamps - up to 12 pcs.;
paint in a can;
paper.

The shape of the chandelier can be any

Spread paper on the working surface, paint the workpiece on all sides with spray paint.

Wait until it dries completely.

Paint the ceiling socket only on the front side and also dry it. Reapply a coat of paint if necessary.

If you want to change something in the room, you can simply connect the fittings in a different way to get a chandelier of a new shape.

Video: how to make a lamp with shades from cups

Everyone can decorate their home with a new handmade lamp. It is enough to choose an interesting idea and make a little effort.

In this article we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. In the initial publication of the cycle - - the general quality requirements were considered, how to form a luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first - the rules for connecting a stationary lamp to the mains. From the previous article, we learned how to make the main lighting parts of the lamp -. Now it's time to take on the solid, reliable and beautiful constructive basis of all this.

About LEDs

LEDs as lighting sources are becoming increasingly popular: they are very economical, durable, almost do not heat up, which provides ample opportunities for self-construction and design. In addition, low-voltage power makes LED light sources safe. Therefore, in this article a significant proportion of the material is devoted to how to make an LED lamp yourself.

However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached the ideal: his spectrum is pretty tight. You can soften it with various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks to the low-voltage power supply, a street or garden LED lamp can be made independently without special precautions, and also be autonomous; then bulk earthworks and cable laying on the site disappear. In this section, we will focus more on LED lamps.

Some examples of what can be achieved by taking on lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. A similar selection “for ideas” or “for inspiration” will be compiled by anyone who knows how to use the Internet. And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to embody all this in the material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Preferably at home, on your knees.

Materials, tools, equipment, technologies

To make a good lamp, expensive and / or hard-to-find materials are not needed. Former technologies focused on incandescent lamps, which are very hot and consume a lot of current. The current homemade ones have housekeeper lamps and LEDs that emit little heat, which simplifies the design.

To manufacture a lamp that is not inferior in appearance or quality to industrial designs, we will need scraps of metal tubes, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized steel sheet 0.4-1 mm thick and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to get by with unnecessary trash. Wood processing for a complex lamp is a special case, and we will not bypass it.

Note: good old glass also should not be discounted. Take a look at this tutorial for example: diy.ru/post/3916/. That's what can be achieved by working at home with such difficult material. Only one small "but" - what the author of the product (a man, no doubt, very skillful and quick-witted) calls cutting, in fact, edging. However, how to call it is the business of letter-eaters, and it is enough for the master to make the contraption good.

Very simple but tasteful

Examples of excellent lamps made from improvised materials, namely, scraps of wood and paper, are well-known Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The basis is most often a rack frame, pasted over with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of what is in pos. 2, thin bamboo sticks are better (you can split an old rod into strips), or the ends of modern fiberglass rods; sold in fishing stores. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. Paper (preferably rice) after pasting is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. When dry, it will stretch. After that, the paper is varnished for strength.

A Chinese lantern can also be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or table skewers (wooden twigs on which barbecue and kebab are served at the table). Both are made of light, fairly well-reflecting light, wood. And its slightly rough surface effectively scatters light, which softens it.

From chopsticks, placing them with broadened heads alternately to the left, then to the right, they gain side light-transmitting panels, pos. 3. And from table skewers you get a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.

Plastics

But back to the materials, they are not finished yet. Excellent details of chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic utensils - bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut off or sanded off. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass - "velvet" - and polished with felt with GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.

The second type of plastic, which allows you to make a very original lamp (see Fig.) - polymer clay or just plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens the light very well.

Polymer clay is available in various colors immediately-plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are quite hard at first, but soften when kneading. To speed up and facilitate softening, put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the bar, and start kneading when it is absorbed.

Lampshades are molded from soft plastic on a mandrel lubricated with petroleum jelly. Immediately, if necessary, they fill the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in fig. To obtain an openwork ceiling, the tip of the package is cut off and the mass is squeezed out with a sausage. After about a day, the product dries up, then you can, without removing it from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, frills. Completely the product dries up in 3-7 days.

Bar plastic is used for the manufacture of lamp stands. Having molded the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, the gas is covered to a minimum and “baked” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is undesirable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawn, drilled, polished, painted. In this way, lamp cases are sometimes not only original, but also quite spicy (see the figure), or even frivolous on the verge of decency, or even beyond it.

Ceramics

Since we are talking about coasters, let's try to make a lamp out of a bottle. Ceramic vessels for drinks, worked out by company designers, deserve a better use than garbage, moonshine or recyclables for pennies.

There are 2 problems here: stability and holes for cable entry and a switch. The first is solved with sand, poured into the bottle by 2/3 or 3/4. To solve the second, it would seem that a tubular diamond drill is needed, which is expensive, wears out quickly, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:

We will select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
We will securely fix the vessel that we will drill so that the drill enters along the normal (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
Around the place of the future hole, we will fashion a roller 4-6 mm high from plasticine.
Let's rub a couple of pieces of fine skin against each other over some pallet to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
Pour it into the hole and drip 3-5 drops of engine oil - you can drill.

For drilling, it is better to put a drill with a copper tube clamped in a chuck into a bed that turns it into a desktop drilling machine. Such beds are sold in tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefit to the artisan is invaluable. Moreover, you can buy a turntable with a degree scale to the bed.

They drill ceramics with copper and corundum in jerks: slightly pressed - raised - pressed again - raised. Abrasive particles first eat into copper and drill, but then they break out and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum “plating” on copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube, with each feed, falls exactly into the already selected groove.

Electrical fittings

For a novice lighting engineer, it is best, perhaps, to use cartridges for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27H, and the drawing is shown in fig. It will not work to mount such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if there is an M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, with a manual wrench, cut the thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting it and not rolling it, very difficult, even with grease. Under mounting with flanges, you will have to make a mounting ring, as described in the article on lampshades, it is much easier.

Note: if a wall lamp is made in which the lamp is located along the base, then cartridges with a side bar are usually used, see fig., but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also get by with a flange cartridge: an Ω-shaped clamp is bent from the wire and fastened to the base with self-tapping screws.

The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the lamp to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is mandatory not only for the sake of ease of installation, but also according to the requirements of safety regulations: suddenly the chandelier breaks, its thinner wires break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring is not affected, which will prevent an accident and ceiling-grooving repair work.

It is better to take a terminal block of the “comb” type, see Fig.:

Such are compact, reliable, exclude accidental short circuits, and by biting the jumpers between sections, it is elementary to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to enter no more than 2 stranded wires with a copper cross section of up to 1.4 square meters into each terminal. mm in total and not more than 1 single-core, regardless of the cross-sectional area of its conductive core.

About wooden lamps

The tree, on the one hand, is easily processed and looks solidly finished. On the other hand, to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological methods. Which we will consider.

cable channels

The first problem that arises in the manufacture of a wooden lamp is how to make channels for the cable in long parts. To do this, without special equipment, “on the knee”, you can use a wood drill with a narrowed 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly put on it, crimped, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to make a manual collar; to facilitate and greater accuracy of work, it is better to take a two-band drill.

Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:

At both ends of the workpiece, blind holes of the desired diameter are drilled, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to ensure that they go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
They are drilled with the described manual wrench alternately from both ends, each time passing no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
The chips from the holes after each pass are carefully removed;
After the jumper is broken, the hole passes through twice, from one and the other end. This is necessary to remove the step inside, which the cable can catch on when tightened.

How to bend a tree?

It is quite possible to make a lamp from bent wooden parts with your own hands: seasoned thin-layer wood softens under heating, without delamining, but when cooled down, retains the shape given to it. Bamboo, walnut and soft woods are the easiest to bend, e.g. Linden. Harder - wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. For bending oak, beech, mountain ash, and other hardwoods, it is better for a novice cabinetmaker not to take on. MDF also bends well.

The wood is bent either steamed in boiling water, or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is simpler, but suitable, except for bamboo, for a few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because. wood does not swell and when cooled, respectively, does not shrink.

To bend wood, you need a piece of steel pipe: with a welded end for steaming or with both open for dry bending. The pipe for steaming is installed obliquely, a workpiece is placed in it, poured with water on top and boiled. Boiling water must be violent so that the workpiece is bathed in steam bubbles. The process is continued for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can take out the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water instead of boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe with a building hair dryer. First, on a sample of wood, you need to check what temperature it can withstand without charring and cracking.

How to tighten cables?

The cables are tightened into the tubular parts of the fixtures using a guide rod - "fishing rods" - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. "Fishing rod" should be completely flat; a smoothly curved wire wound from a reel can also be crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the “fishing rod” is straightened, stretching it through a rag tightly clenched in a fist. The best guides are made from enameled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.

"Fishing rod" is introduced from the far end. Before that, its tip is tightly bent, see Fig., To be rounded. The thrust is pushed into the curved channels, slightly feeding and turning. When moving from channel to channel (see below), the running end is directed with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.

When the end of the rod appears from the opposite side, it is cleaned by 20-30 mm and tinned. The cable wires are cleaned and tinned for the same amount, up to 3 per 1 "fishing rod". Then everything is twisted together and soldered. The twist is folded opposite to the direction of tightening so that it does not cling. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and pulling the guide. When tightening, the cable in the channel must not be taut all the time! If it is hooked, they pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull it again.

Note: up to 4 2-wire double-insulated cables with a cross-section of copper wires up to 0.5 sq. M can be pulled into a straight metal tube with an inner diameter of 12 mm. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree - only 1 of the same cable.

Starting from the ceiling

Suspension of the lamp to the ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable node. Hanging fixtures at the 1st point is allowed only if the base is a viscous durable material, for example. oak beams, pos. a) in fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the luminaire anchor must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must work in compression, pos. c) - e).

A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using a mounting plate, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the mounting holes in the plank should be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is plasterboard, or suspended, or stretched, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the level of the decorative one using wooden or metal crosses or plywood boards, at the top there. How to make a suspension in some other cases, see below.

The main requirement for the suspension is that the lamp should never hang on wires. It should be held either by a rigid bar, or a strong cord / rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. Under the top cap of the gimbal, the power cable must lie in a loose loop, and must not be pulled, pinched or pinched anywhere.

How to make a lamp?

Now he will try to reduce the information received into a single product, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as sincerely as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:

Complex and / or technological operations requiring special skills are avoided in every possible way.
Adhesive or solder joints are used only auxiliary, holding the parts to be joined from displacement. The product assembled without gluing and soldering should, in the absence of external influences, remain intact in its normal position for an indefinitely long time.
From an additional tool, we will try to get by with a hand-held electric drill and a small removable bench vise with a screw clamp for attaching to the table.

Let's start with a chandelier, as the most complex type of household lamp.

Chandelier

On a cord

The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, 4 additional holes will have to be drilled in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green in pos. 1a. Cord knots must be knitted that do not slip or unravel, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord - any non-rotting cross lay (eg linen) with a diameter in an unstretched state of 8 mm or more. Cords and ropes of spiral lay are not intended for long-term tensile load!

The most critical part is the suspension hook (red CP). It must be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod can withstand weight up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made hook for a chandelier, it will not be worse.

Suspension rods with the same weight - from 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg, you can get by with 1.5 mm, and with a weight of up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheet 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for weights up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.

Note: steel soldering technology at home is described in.

In this case, it is better to fix the upper cup from slipping with a rubber ring, because. the spring washer can crush the cable passing under it. A good pallet is obtained from a computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the ceiling, it is turned down, respectively, with the painted or mirror side. Radial cuts are made under the stretch marks of the lampshade in the pallet.

The top cup and cap are made of plastic utensils, see above. The cap lies freely on the pallet. Glue - any assembly.

Note: the bottom nut of the cartridge must enter the hole in the pan, and not press it. Otherwise, it may be difficult to repair or clean the chandelier.

On the tube

In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (pos. 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to knit a knot on their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of pulls can be anything from 3. Accordingly, the ring can also be made without an additional row of holes, such as is described in the article on lampshades.

It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in the center of it 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link of a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. P.

An eye for a hook in the suspension bar is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After that (and not before), a hole is drilled for laying the cable, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A bar for a lamp weight of up to 15 kg can be made from pipes of the following types:

Seamless steel - inner diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing - painting or covering with a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) of the desired color.
Steel with a seam - vnutr. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finish is the same.
Copper gas in a plastic sheath - vnutr. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. Finishing is not necessary, and so it shines with copper for years. You can not solder, under the adhesive connection you need to remove the plastic coating in that place.
For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper - int. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. Very easy to solder and glue. To preserve the copper sheen, the finished rod should be coated twice with a water-based clear acrylic varnish, diluted by half with distilled water.
Simple red copper - int. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is soldered after stripping, you need to use flux paste with borax. It darkens with time and under coating, so it is better to make lamps in retro style from such tubes.
Plumbing propylene - very durable, but do not stick and, of course, do not solder. It is useless to finish, the design in any case turns out to be terrifying.

many-horned

From the tubes, you can make chandeliers with brackets-horns for individual illuminators. The device for connecting the horns with the rod is shown in pos. 5. The horns, with their even number, are connected in pairs with through threaded studs M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for the studs are located at different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can horns, incl. with an odd number of them, fasten with pairs of small self-tapping screws for metal, however, then the cables must be tightened very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.

Note: complex / extended tube bends are formed section by section, gradually moving the manual pipe bender along the length of the future bend.

If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover the knot of their connection with the barbell with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown by a dotted line in pos. 5). In addition, then cable laying will be much simpler: a terminal block will fit under the cap, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire will go up in the bar.

Multi-track chandeliers are most often made with switchable light. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Do not forget - SB switches (switches) must be included in the phase wire! And yet, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped with protective grounding, never use a ground wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply scheme (grounded or isolated neutral)! The earthing switch is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in properly arranged wiring is black. But in any case, before starting electrical work, you need to find zero and phase with a phase indicator!

About phases, zero and earth

The safety regulations (PTB), electrical installations (PUE) and the Code of Practice (SP) for the production of electrical work for related industries (for example, construction) unambiguously regulate the color of the insulation of only ground wires - yellow with a green stripe; colors for phase conductors A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system is an isolated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to designate phase A in white or light gray. without a hitch" is not always possible.

The chandelier is heavy...

For ceiling lights weighing from 15 kg, fastening on the 1st rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the luminaire with 3 times the margin.

The cradle is fixed to the ceiling using a triangular or square carrier plate made of steel with a thickness of 5 mm or more, pos. 7 in fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is mandatory: without it, if one of the corner fixtures is excessively loosened, the mechanical load will “slam” onto the next weakest one, the suspension will break out like a domino and the chandelier will “all of a sudden” collapse.

Corner attachment points should be located on a conditional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the weight of the chandelier in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in the concrete ceiling must be from 9 of their diameters, as with a 2-point suspension on a bar, see above. Eyelets or hooks under the branches of the cradle are welded to the carrier plate. Homemade eyelets can be made from 6mm wire rod.

… and ultralight

Fans make a lot of lamps from disposable plastic tableware, PET bottles and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the cartridge in the lampshade / ceiling lamp from the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, the cartridge is taken E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. The "ears" of the cartridge with the help of a sewing needle are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with threads, thin copper wire or fishing line.

Secondly, the suspension of an ultralight lamp can also be made cradle, but from a fishing line. Its branches are inserted into the ceiling cap along with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (we recall that it should not be stretched, pinched or pressed anywhere) is twisted or twisted into a spiral, then an ignorant guest may at first be dumbfounded: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?

Floor lamp

A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is, in general, an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in fig. above with fixture designs. First: the bar (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an inner diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring - galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.

Further, in the lower support of the floor lamp, a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure should be provided for attaching the bottom of the rack. Under the floor lamp of the usual type, a cross will go from about 450x450 mm from an oak beam 100x100 mm. A blind hole with a depth of 75-80 mm is drilled in the center of it along the outer diameter of the rack, and it is glued into the socket with mounting glue. Also glue the rack into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in design and strength, to apply a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum) on the glue. The described design allows an amateur to do without custom-turned parts in the manufacture of a floor lamp.

Desk lamp

A working table lamp based on our principles of construction is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: a fairly massive and durable base (wood, plastic) with a stepped through hole along the axis. A lampshade ring is laid on the step and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then at the same time it will press the whiskers of the lampshade extensions and it will not hang out.

Note: for the base of a table lamp made of ceramic or glassware, you need to make a pommel-knob with a stepped hole mounted on its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.

For outdoor lighting

Let's leave outdoor lamps for 220 V purchased: it is impossible to make a "forever" sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed case with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable entry is quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.

However, things may not come to electricity: for temporary lighting in the garden or at a picnic and in the 21st century, an ordinary candle is often more convenient and cheaper, it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from a coffee can in just a few minutes, see the video:

Video: do-it-yourself candle lantern from a coffee can

Such a lamp is suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be fixed on the lid, which is more reliable.

A permanent outdoor lamp should already be electric. The main problem with this is reliable sealing. Here again, glassware with a screw-on lid comes to the rescue: an outdoor lamp works well from a can. In this case, since a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a vessel from under conservation. The cable entry pipe is made by breaking through the cover with a round pointed rod. For complete tightness, aquarium silicone is applied once and for all to the rim of the lid from the inside before screwing.

The lamp "once and for all" involves the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, because. non-living or working premises are illuminated. Taking into account these conditions, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage from an LED strip: it will give quite bright lighting with a negligible consumption of electricity. An example of the manufacture of such a lamp, see:

Video: do-it-yourself garden lamp in 15 minutes

In the garden and in general on the site, high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, if only you don’t get off the path and see the door to the bathhouse, cellar, barn or bathroom. On the other hand, it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp autonomous: here the point is not the cost of electricity, but the cable, and who would like to make trenches in a well-groomed area?

Garden lights powered by solar panels (SB) and a buffer battery (battery) are commercially available, but they are either expensive or short-lived. Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to do it on our own, especially since it is quite possible:

4 white LEDs at a current of 20 mA each in a milky glass or frosted plastic bottle cover will more or less acceptable for garden needs illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m. With a current of 10 mA each, in the light spot you can still see where the stone is, and where is the pit. Total average 60 mA.
The battery, taking into account the weak recharging in winter and the decrease in capacity in the cold, should give the maximum current of the illuminators for at least 30 hours. Finger batteries for 2500-3500 mAh, frost-resistant up to -20, are on sale. We take the minimum allowable battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
Voltage drop across the luminous diode approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the battery discharge mode, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, for a total battery voltage of 6 V.
The SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery of 74%, should give a current of approx. 75 mA. Based on the winter in the middle latitudes, we take a rated current of 100 mA.
Also, taking into account the efficiency of the battery in terms of energy and voltage losses during charging, we take the SB voltage of 9 V.
In order for the battery resource not to fall from overcharging, the recharge current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mAh and a short circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is met, even more so with a 3500 mAh battery. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply put a silicon rectifier diode.

A diagram of an autonomous garden lamp, built taking into account the described conditions, is shown in the figure:

Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to degradation of the active medium due to overcharging, and only in exceptional cases can it reach a deep discharge; therefore, its resource remains normal when operating in harsh temperature conditions. "Zest" here - SB. Their internal resistance is large and non-linear, according to a power law, grows with increasing load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly greater than the nominal one. From this point of view, it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs in this circuit.

The CU control device closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the "twilight" level. VD1 will close by then and the battery will stop charging. It is connected to the battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, the reed switch is better, because a conventional one with a low voltage coil will take more current than all LEDs. In this case, it is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, almost to zero. Since the current is constant here, the thyristor, once opened, will not “quiet” until the battery is completely planted.

About aquarium lighting

For lighting aquariums, special linear fluorescent lamps are used. Unlike flower shelf phytolamps: the spectrum of aquarium lamps is tailored to the optical properties of water and the vital needs of aquatic plants. Both lamps are unsuitable for general lighting of premises: the light that favors photosynthesis is by no means always useful for human vision.

Lighting is the most important component of the interior. The coziness and comfort level of our home depends on the lighting. The play of light and shadow allows you to beat the winning moments of the interior and divert attention from bad moments. And also - lamps, floor lamps, chandeliers and lamps create the atmosphere that we call "home". Unique lamps will help to make a dwelling only “your own”, personal, individual, and the best way is to make a lampshade with your own hands. Homemade plafonds and lampshades are the thing that will make your home stand out from the rest.

A few words about security

In the manufacture of lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers in industrial conditions, the minimum distance from the "body" of the lamp to the materials is preliminarily calculated. This distance depends on the power and thermal radiation of the lamp and on the type (combustibility) of the material from which the ceiling / lampshade is made. At home, hardly anyone will bother with such calculations. And in order not to create a dangerous situation, it is worth adhering to certain rules.

And in general, having made a lampshade and installing it, in the first few days, pay attention to whether the ceiling heats up. Heating is any increase in temperature above ambient. If the lampshade feels “warm”, change the light bulb to a less powerful one. Check again. So until the homemade lampshade warms up.

Where to get a frame

If you want to remake an old lamp, floor lamp, sconces in which the old lampshade has become unusable, you can simply use the existing base by peeling off the old material. Before starting work, inspect the frame well, if there is rust or a damaged coating somewhere, maybe it’s worth stripping everything off and painting it again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If there are no old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (in a store or at a flea market) and do the same operations with it. Good lampshades can, by the way, be made from waste baskets. They are wire, there are plastic. The main thing is to find a suitable shape and size. Then make a hole in the bottom for the cartridge. Further - it's up to decoration / plating, and here there are a lot of options.

If this method is also not available, you can make a lampshade without a frame (there are some) or make a frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially cut elements), plastic bottles.

How to make a frame for a homemade wire lampshade

The wire for the lamp frame needs aluminum or steel. Aluminum is easy to work with, but wrinkle easily. This is not very important when the lampshade is already in use, but this fact must be taken into account during operation: you can ruin the shape. On the other hand, such plasticity allows easy and simple changes in the shape during operation. So that's a good option. Aluminum wire can be "mined" from electrical cables. You will have to remove the protective shell and you can use it.

Steel wire is more elastic, so it retains its shape well. It can be found in the construction market. It's harder to work with her. It is desirable that there were strong male hands nearby.

In addition to the wire, you will need powerful wire cutters and pliers to work. The frame of the lampshade usually consists of two rings and racks connecting them. The shape of the future lampshade depends on the size of the rings and the shape of the racks. Questions may arise regarding the number of racks and how they are attached. The number of posts depends on the size of the rings and how "round" you want the lampshade to be. The more posts, the more “smoothly” the fabric will lie. So it's up to you to choose, but the optimal distance between the racks in the lower circle is about 5-6 cm.

Techniques for creating a frame for a wire lampshade

Methods for attaching the stack to the lampshade rings depend on the thickness and type of wire, as well as the tools you have. The easiest is to make a small hook at the end, then clamp it tightly. And so that the ring does not slide left and right, pre-treat the wire at the attachment point with sandpaper with a large grain. This is an option for thick aluminum wire. If the wire is steel, and with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. Thinner wire can be bent and wrapped around the ring or also made a hook.

If you make hooks, wind the wire, the appearance is far from being as ideal as that of factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If she still worries you, find a ribbon of a suitable color (usually matched to the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. It will get much better. The tape can be smeared with PVA glue and, wet, tightly, turn by turn, wrap the frame around.

wire mesh

If you can find a fine wire mesh, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical shade for a floor lamp, table lamp, night lamp, candle shade, etc. All you need is to cut off a piece of mesh of the desired length and width, roll it into a ring and fasten the wires by wrapping them around the racks.

To prevent the mesh from straightening when cutting off a piece, cut so that long free ends remain on both sides. They will fasten the ceiling of a cylindrical shape. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a tape of the desired color.

From a five-liter plastic bottle

An interesting shape lampshade can be obtained from a large plastic bottle. There are bottles of 5-6 liters and even 10. Here they can be used. From the container we cut off the top or the bottom - depending on what you like best. In the cut off part we make a ring for the cartridge. If the top is cut off, a neck can be used for some cartridges. For those with a larger diameter, it will have to be cut off.

Then we cut out the excess plastic, form the rims and racks of the ceiling. In order not to be mistaken, you can first draw all the lines with a marker. Cutting will be easier. Everything is elementary. Then we just decorate. And yes, it is necessary to cut out the plastic, otherwise the warm air will have nowhere to go.

We make lampshades on the frame

There are enough options on how to make a lampshade cover:

From tapes

The easiest and fastest way to transform an old lampshade for a floor lamp or table lamp is to use ribbons. You need a frame or lampshade in the form of a cylinder. It can be "naked" or covered with fabric. If you use a "bare" frame, the light will break through the cracks, which will create interesting lighting effects, but the lighting will not be uniform. Reading in this light is inconvenient - this is an interior solution. If you need even lighting, cover the frame with fabric first. It can be the same color as the ribbon, a couple of tones darker or lighter, it can be contrasting. Everything depends on your desire. And remember that the darker the fabric, the less light the lampshade lets through.

We take a tape 1-2.5 cm wide. We fix it from the wrong side of the lampshade with PVA glue, additionally fixing it with a pin. If you took a wire frame without fabric, we attach it to the upper or lower rim (you can sew it on with your hands, you can use glue). Then we begin to wrap the entire frame, from top to bottom, placing the turns of the tape close to each other, but without overlap.

Having finished the circle, we unfold the tape 90 °. We fix it in this position (with a needle and thread or PVA glue, glue from a gun, temporarily fixing it with a pin, pressing it with a clothespin). Then we skip the tape under the first tape, pull it out, lay it on top of the second one, then pull it down again, pull it up through one tape. So, gradually, we create an interlacing, filling the entire lampshade.

Alternatively, you can skip two vertical tapes. But then you need to make sure that each next row moves one crossbar. Then you get a different type of weave. Such a lampshade is ideal for floor lamps, since it will direct the light downwards, scattering through the walls will be small.

In this version, the ribbons can be the same, they can be of the same color, but of a different texture, they can differ by a couple of tones or be contrasting. In a circle, the tapes can be started all the way, or you can - after a certain distance. If you find a wide tape and apply it with an overlap, then horizontal ones will not be needed at all. And if you use a braided or twisted cord (in the lower photo on the right), we get a completely different lampshade in appearance. So only this technique of finishing the lampshade gives a lot of options.

Let's briefly present the ideas. There are many options for how you can design standard frames for lampshades in a non-standard way. The first method has already been voiced: you can knit a lampshade cover on knitting needles or crochet. Several options in the photo.

Not everyone knows how to knit. It is easier to work with beads, especially if you glue them. You can decorate an old fabric with beads, sequins, beads of various shapes and sizes. You can make such a “new-old” lampshade with your own hands in a couple of hours. You select the decorations that match the color, coat the fabric with PVA glue, stick the decorations. To complete the look, you can assemble pendants from beads and beads that are attached to the lower rim, but this is already painstaking work. Although the effect is interesting.

You can sew a new lampshade out of fabric. But it is not necessary to make it an updated copy of the old one. Fantasy must be turned on! If the lamp or floor lamp is in the girls' room, a new cover for the lampshade can be made in the form of a skirt. The style of the skirt is up to you. Interesting look in the fold. With and without ruffles.

In the boy's room, you can use an old geographical map. They are on thick paper. If the paper is not thick enough, first you need to stick the card on cardboard, and then glue the lampshade from such a blank.

Original shades are obtained if the finished frame is braided with threads or ropes. Ropes can be natural. In this case, they are gray, brown beige. You can find thin synthetic colored cords. Of these, more "fun" in color products will turn out. The situation is even simpler with knitting threads. They are thin, thick, textured, with a smoothly changing color. In general, there are a lot of options.

We take the frame and braid it according to a certain pattern. You can start with racks. Braid each rack with a pigtail (the length of the threads should be 3 times the height of the rack). When this work is finished, we begin to stretch the threads / ropes between the racks. They will need to be passed through pigtails, so it is more convenient to do this with threads with a needle, and the ropes can be pushed through like that.

The second option is to first entangle the entire frame horizontally, and then braid the racks. A pigtail will no longer work here, you just need to fix the turns on the rack with oblique stitches with a certain slope. This version is somewhat simpler in execution, but the “pigtails” look more decorative.

Homemade ceiling lamps without a frame

Many materials are rigid enough to hold their shape on their own, yet malleable enough to be made into something interesting. There are a lot of such homemade lampshades. And almost all of them are worth your attention. We give here only a part, the other part will go in the photo section (see below).

From knitted lace doilies

Many people have crocheted napkins and they lie in the “stash”, because it’s a pity to throw it away and they don’t know how to use it. There is a very interesting idea - to make a lampshade for a hanging chandelier out of them. In addition to napkins, you will need a large balloon or an inflatable ball, glue for heavy wallpaper (vinyl, silkscreen, etc.), a brush.

We soak the glue according to the instructions, wait until it swells. Inflate a balloon or take a ball, hang it up. When the glue is ready, lay out a napkin on some clean surface, coat it with glue, put it on a ball.

It is necessary to lay out with such a condition that in the center there will be a hole for the cartridge. Glue the napkins one by one. They need to be laid out so that the edges overlap slightly. When all the napkins are laid, once again coat them with glue and leave to dry. When the glue is dry, blow off the ball or ball (the ball can be pierced if you don't mind) and take it out through the hole. That's all, the lace lampshade is ready.

In some cases, there are problems with how to hang the finished lampshade on the cartridge. The problem is solved simply - take a transparent plastic bottle, cut off its neck, if necessary, expand the hole to the desired size (so that it fits tightly on the cartridge), then cut off the plastic so that you get a ring 5-7 cm wide. Lubricate this ring with PVA glue , and glue it to the lampshade from the inside of the ball.

Round plafonds made of threads

Almost the same technology can be used to make round and semicircular stylish shades. Choose the thread of the right color. Their composition is absolutely unimportant - the color, thickness and texture are important. They can be shaggy, smooth, twisted, thinner and thicker. It depends on the appearance. It is most convenient to work with cotton threads of medium thickness. They absorb glue well and then, after drying, keep their shape perfectly.

You will also need a ball or ball. This will be the base of the lampshade, which sets the shape. Choose the size of the base as you wish. The threads will need to be glued, for this you need PVA glue. It is poured into a container, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

You can use other glue. It is important that it becomes transparent after drying. These are WB-29 from TYTAN Professional and D2 joinery adhesive. If you use any of these types of glue, read the instructions.

On the ball or ball, draw a circle, which will be slightly smaller in size than the lamp socket. On the opposite side, draw a larger circle - this will be the lower edge of the ceiling. Now everything is ready, we can start.

We coat the threads with glue and wind them around the ball in a chaotic manner. It is more convenient to do this if the glue is poured into a container - you can lower the entire skein there, and just pull the thread slowly. With glue in a tube, everything is not so comfortable: you have to coat sections up to a meter long, rewind, coat again. Time goes much longer. This is if you do not use PVA. But on the other hand, the products turn out to be more rigid and do not sag, do not change shape over time, as can happen with filament lampshades on PVA.

When winding threads around the ball, we carefully go around the drawn circles. If you accidentally climbed into the "forbidden territory", we simply move the threads, forming an even (more or less even) edge. When the threads run out or you decide that there is enough density, the process can be stopped. We fill the edge of the thread between others. Everything. Then we coat the ball with wound threads again with glue (PVA can be watered) and leave to dry (at least 2 days). To prevent the ball from rolling, we find a bowl or pan and use it as a stand.

The last stage is to blow off the ball or ball. If the ball has a nipple, press it with a thin wire, releasing air. Take out the dropped ball. That's all, you can thread the lamp inside and test the lampshade.

The technology is the same, but the appearance is very different…

According to the technology described above, it is possible to make not only round shades. Rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Choose a base that is easy to remove, wrap threads soaked in glue, braid, even sticks, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, remove the base and, behold, you have made a lampshade with your own hands. A couple of examples in the photo below.

You can also use chopsticks... Just wrap the ball with cling film too and use not PVA glue, but transparent carpentry

It's a paste-like polymer clay in a tube that's been applied to a milk carton, then dried and the bag removed...

Creative homemade shades for lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers

You just wonder what people don’t make beautiful and unusual things from. Plafond from a cup, grater, bottle, beer or glass can, metal parts and beer can rings ... It seems that everything can be used ...

Lampshade from an old sieve ... stylish

Candlesticks turn into lamps ... without lampshades

You can’t tell in life, but these shades are made of hooks that open metal cans for drinks and canned food ... if they are painted, it will be even more interesting

Don't know what to do with grandma's crystal? Make plafonds out of it ...