Wiring in the garage - design, installation and wiring options (100 photos). How to make electrical wiring and lighting in the garage with your own hands - a diagram, cable calculation and installation technology Do-it-yourself wiring in an iron garage

A well-equipped container for a car or other transport must necessarily have well-thought-out electrical wiring. And even if someone managed to establish an apartment (home) electrical network, fix more than one device with their own hands, there is no need to hastily get to work. First you need to find out everything and thoroughly understand what exactly needs to be done.

Peculiarities

Electricity in the garage is always needed. Even those who are not going to repair their car or motorcycle are forced to recharge batteries there and illuminate the room at night. If the garage is also used for repairs, for car maintenance, you will have to sharpen tools, drill and cut, grind, solder, weld metal ... But the inevitable placement of fuel and lubricants nearby, constant dampness and contact with the ground require wiring very carefully.

Not every garage owner has enough free time and knowledge. to study building codes and rules for electrical installations. Unlike electrical work in the house and in the apartment, it is necessary to obtain permission from the board of the garage cooperative or from the owner of the rented parking space. Connection to three-phase networks at 0.4 kV will also require coordination with the electricity supplier, the same organization must draw up a project according to your application.

Important requirements

Using a 220 V network imposes much fewer restrictions on the owner of the garage. However, he must definitely purchase a meter that can withstand electricity at 50 Amperes and the appropriate cables. The energy supervision is closely monitoring the supply of the load current. In case of violations, he has the right to issue an order to dismantle the illegal electrical network and even impose a fine on “initiative electricians”.

It is possible to conduct electricity from the house by air and underground methods.

Cables are suspended in the air, held by a supporting steel wire with a diameter of 0.3 cm. According to current regulations, underground lines are supposed to be pulled in corrugated plastic pipes laid in trenches 0.8 m deep. The bottom of the excavation is sprinkled with sand (0.1 m layer). A similar line is connected to a personal meter, the segment is protected using a special machine.

To distribute electrical energy, they use a special electrical panel installed directly in the garage itself. For him, a main machine is provided, the same type as that installed in the apartment (house). These requirements are key, and all other points depend on the scheme used.

Mounting diagram

A high-quality, well-thought-out electrical circuit is the main guarantee of successful work. It is important to distinguish between so-called circuit diagrams and layout diagrams; the first describes the electrical circuit itself, and the second describes the location of consumers (with a note about distances or with an exact scale). For the greatest convenience and the elimination of errors, the wires are marked with the same colors that they have in real life.

Phase conductors in the networks are under dangerous voltages in relation to the ground. But connecting an RCD without a protective earth will not work.

Residual current devices are differential transformers, summing the input (from the phase) and exported (through the neutral) currents. If the insulation is damaged, when a short to the case occurs, these currents differ and do not cancel each other out.

Protection against leakage current will only work successfully if it is directed along its own special grounding line. With the help of the main machine, it is possible to de-energize the network when short circuits occur on the main line or when all lines have undergone simultaneous overload. This device is indispensable for repair, and when testing the system, and when troubleshooting in it.

Separate groups are connected to "their" machines in phase circuits. The tires located in the shields are structurally made as strips or bars made of copper, brass. Holes are made in them for wires tightened with screws.

The work of an electrician with a three-phase garage network does not differ significantly from the procedure already described. It should only be mentioned about two auxiliary phases and built-in automata, RCDs instead of the usual ones designed for one phase. The phases are wired as in conventional lines under a voltage of 220 V, together with the neutral. The voltage of any pair of phases should be 380 V, with a phase angle of uniform load of 120 degrees.

To build a power grid correctly, you will need:

create a diagram with clear and distinct images (symbols);
mark vertical fragments of the wiring with "+" signs with the assigned height;
strictly observe selected signs for sockets, lamps and other elements.

When the schemes are formed, you can begin to complete the garage electrical network.

Selection of cables and wires

When selecting any cable and wire, it is worth focusing on a voltage of 230 V (it is replacing the old 220 V and will soon become a generally accepted standard).

In most cases, it is assumed that:

ceiling lights are rated at 80 watts each;
in the inspection hole there are 3 lamps for 36 V, 0.1 kW each;
sockets for connecting working electrical equipment for 5 kW in total are brought out into the same pit.

Starting from the transformer, it is worth using a closed format copper wire.

If at least part of it is carried out inside the concrete floor, a core with a cross section of 4.5 square meters is needed. mm. For sockets in the inspection pit, closed wires with a cross section of 1 sq. mm more. More detailed information about the properties of electrical wiring in relation to your garage can always be obtained using special formulas. The thinnest cable is used to connect ceiling lights - 1.5 square meters. mm (thinner does not exist).

To save money, it makes sense to buy aluminum wires, especially for the least loaded areas.

As in any other room, copper and aluminum should not be connected - this also needs to be taken into account when selecting wiring. Only double-insulated cables with insulating conductors can compensate for the harmful effects of negative conditions in garages.

The selection of automata is made "by current". Ceiling light sources need 2.5 A, pit light sources need 15 A. The formula for calculating the required transformer power is the same as usual. A residual current device designed for a passing current of less than 20 A and for operation at more than 20 mA is completely unsuitable, because leakage from serviceable devices is almost imperceptible.

To accommodate cables and busbars, you will need:

shields of the closed type;
boxes;
cable channels;
sealed trays.

Most often, such products are made of metal, but an increasing share of the market is occupied by round and rectangular plastic pipes. Corrugated products should be resorted to only in the most extreme case, using them is quite tiring. The most modern and practical solution for electricians is a cable tray with a snap-on lid. Metal-plastic pipes performed quite well - the same ones that are usually used in plumbing and heating systems.

Mounting technology

Having purchased all the necessary materials and tools, you can start pulling the wiring. Where it is not possible to make a bend in the form of a large radius of pipes, it is worth using boxes. They will help distribute the branches and arrange the switches properly. It is necessary to fix both the boxes and the connecting pipes on the supporting structures as carefully as possible. Responsible owners of garages, both installing wiring with their own hands and turning to professionals, always evaluate the tightness of the joints of any pipe and box.

It is important to remember that even the simplest materials and structures carefully thought out by engineers are installed only with careful, painstaking work.

Correctly stretching the cable through the pipe means first bringing the wire inside. To do this, use special heads that will prevent jamming and clamping. Only then comes the turn of tying the cable to the wire and passing it through the pipe. It is advisable to use trays on vertical wiring segments, ceiling lights are suspended on tensioned cables (not under voltage!).

To make the fastening of the wires in the boxes reliable, it is recommended to either clamp them with screws or solder the copper twists. Where aluminum and copper wires have to be joined, they are separated by terminals or washers made of other metals. Great attention should be paid to grounding. Not a single step-by-step instruction for wiring in a garage can bypass it.

A typical workflow is as follows:

next to the main building, a steel pipe coated with a zinc layer is driven into the ground, 2 m long;
a round steel block with a diameter of 0.6-0.8 cm is welded to this pipe;
a circle of steel is painted with hydrophobic paint and brought into the garage;
it must be laid to the shield, next to which the terminal is placed;
behind the terminal is a thick copper wire (thickness is the key to low resistance).

Since the garage is a damp and dangerous room, where the risk of electric shock is high, it is therefore worth choosing sockets and lighting fixtures that comply with the IP44 protection class.

To make a full-fledged workshop, you will have to separate three-phase wiring based on a copper cable, the cross section of which is at least 6 square meters. mm. The cable is placed so that it is at least 11 cm to the ceiling, and the socket and the floor must be separated by 50 cm. It is advisable to maintain a gap between the installation and the heating pipes of at least 15 cm.

Many garages are equipped with a cellar, and this part of the room also requires special lighting., that is, laying wires and connecting them to lighting fixtures. The cellar already belongs to damp spaces, where it is necessary to install the electrical network as carefully as possible. And when it is also located in the garage, the severity of the requirements only grows. Step-down transformers with an output current of 12 V should be used. Only after making sure that the room is completely dry, it is permissible to use standard 220 V electricity.

It is advisable to show the garage to an experienced electrician before starting work and coordinate with him the purchase of all components. This will make it possible to take into account the specifics of the network being created as accurately as possible, to avoid errors in its construction and failures in operation.

According to those who have already had to create hidden wiring in the garage, the best solution is to stretch cable channels from non-combustible materials. A smooth surface on the inside is much more convenient than a corrugated sleeve. If suddenly the wiring fails, you can always open a small section of the wall and change the burnt wire or even part of the channel.

With all the importance of electrical wiring, you need to make sure that there is a window in the garage.

It provides natural light and supports the most economical mode of use of appliances. And this means that the same wires and distribution nodes will work longer.

For garage wiring you must approach responsibly, your safety and convenience of working in it depend on it. Electric cables are laid in garages openly along the walls, and not hidden as in apartments in walls and under plaster. Also installed outside the wall and overhead sockets and switches. How to install them I already wrote in the article "".

Also in my previous articles I talked about how to organize lighting inside the garage, and separately for special conditions.

Today I will elaborate on how to make a wiring diagram for a garage.

Some lay electrical cables under plaster, but as practice has shown, in cases for a garage this is impractical. It is better to lay the cable openly along the walls, and in places where damage may occur, in PVC pipes or a box.

Why? Because, this way you will always have access to electrical cables and can always quickly add an additional one, replace it with another one or move a socket or switch. And besides, do not damage the electrical wiring when you drill the walls.

Basic principles for planning a garage wiring diagram.

Let's look at specific wiring diagrams for a garage separately with 220 and 380 Volt inputs.

Wiring diagram for 220 volts in the garage.

Most garages are connected to a single-phase 220 Volt power supply. and 2 or 3 power wires come to the electrical panel from the outside to the introductory two-pole machine 25 or 32 Amperes. From it, the phase and zero are connected to the electric meter, from which the phase goes to the machines, and the zero to the zero bus, to which all zeros will be connected to the RCD, differential machines or directly to the wiring if the line is connected to a conventional circuit breaker.

Usually electricians install in garages two machines for lighting - one for the garage itself, and the second for the viewing hole and basement. Also, 2 RCDs with circuit breakers or two DIF machines are enough to connect two groups of sockets.

Wiring diagram for 380 volts in the garage.

If a You plan to use 380 volt electrical equipment in the garage, then you need a five- or 4-wire power supply to the garage, which is connected to a three-phase input machine, and after it an electric meter is connected, from which a common three-phase machine is already powered (in the figure, DIF with zero connection).

The presence of electrical wiring in the garage greatly facilitates the life of the car owner. In case of urgent need, you can quickly charge the battery or pump up a flat tire. And in case of serious breakdowns, the presence of lighting will allow you to carefully examine the vehicle from the inspection hole. We have prepared for you instructions with diagrams, which will allow you to carry out the installation yourself.

Creating a do-it-yourself wiring diagram in the garage

Single-phase wiring diagram for a garage

The garage belongs to the group of technical premises where open-type wiring is more often used. This allows you to carry out work on power supply in the shortest possible time. In addition, such a system is easier to upgrade and maintain. For safety reasons, wiring can also be laid inside load-bearing walls, but if problems arise, the damaged area will have to be completely opened.

In garages used for parking and keeping no more than two cars, a single-phase power supply of 220 V with a frequency of 50 Hz is laid. This voltage is sufficient for the operation of lighting, a power outlet group, power tools, charging and start-charging equipment.

Three-phase power supply with a voltage of 380 V is used only in garages used to contain a large number of cars and large equipment, when there is a need for the constant operation of an electric boiler, power supply for machine tools and a welding machine.

Before carrying out installation work, a wiring diagram must be drawn up. To draw up a diagram, it is better to use graph paper, which depicts the general plan of the garage, walls, floor and ceiling. All sketches are depicted on a reduced scale, convenient for applying the appropriate designations.

An example of an external electrical wiring device in a garage

After that, the location of the following devices is indicated on the diagram:

introductory switchboard;
metering device, RCD, automation;
socket group;
switches and lighting fixtures;
power cable and wiring.

When drawing a diagram, it is advisable to consider the optimal location of the RCD, the meter and calculate the route for laying the cable to the outlet group and lighting. The total number of sockets and lighting fixtures is determined, especially if there is a viewing hole.

When designing electrical wiring, it is necessary to provide a way to supply electricity to the switchboard, taking into account the location of the garage. Basically, a garage is built in garage cooperatives with their own substation or near residential buildings connected to the power grid. If it is planned to build a garage on a separate site, then the method and route of laying the cable line from the nearest transmission line is calculated.

Scheme for a garage without a viewing hole

Scheme of a single-phase electrical wiring of a 220 V garage

Taking into account the described conditions, the photo above shows a single-phase wiring diagram with a rated operating voltage of 220 V. This is an approximate diagram drawn up for reference. In practice, especially in the presence of powerful equipment, the wiring diagram may have a slightly different look.

The diagram for a garage without a viewing hole shows:

1 - introductory two-pole machine, designed for 220 V;
2 - electric meter;
3 - RCD for the socket group and lighting;
4 - single-pole machines for each socket group;
5 and 6 - paired rosette groups;
7 - automatic general lighting network;
8 - automatic local lighting network for spotlights;
9 and 10 - switches for general and local lighting;
11 and 12 - lighting fixtures.

According to this scheme, a three-wire wire is used for wiring: phase (L), zero (N) and ground. The ground wire is designed to protect a person from the effects of electric current and maintain the performance of electrical appliances. To simplify the diagram, the ground wire (PE) wiring is not shown.

Wiring diagram for a room with a viewing hole

Scheme of a single-phase electrical wiring of a garage with a viewing hole

Conventionally, the inspection pit can be attributed to the basement, located below the floor level. According to the rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE), an extra-low voltage current of 42 volts or less should be used to power the viewing hole.

To do this, a special transformer is mounted that lowers the voltage and is designed for a total current power of up to 2-3 kW. At the same time, equipment, power tools and lighting devices that are planned to be used when working in a viewing hole must be designed for this voltage.

Above is a wiring diagram for a garage with a viewing hole. The diagram shows:

1 - introductory electrical panel;
2 - introductory two-pole machine for 220 V;
3 - electric meter;
4 - step-down transformer up to 36–42 volts;
5 - lighting fixtures of the viewing hole;
6 - RCD;
7 and 8 - automata of the socket group No. 1 and 2:
9 and 10 - socket groups No. 1 and 2;
11 and 12 - automatic lighting group No. 1 and 2;
13 and 14 - lighting group No. 1 and 2;
15 - switch or several switches for lighting groups.

As in the previous case, a cable with a grounding core is used to lay the electrical network. For lighting, a cable is used - VVG 3 * 1.5, and for socket groups - VVG 3 * 6. For sockets, the cable cross-section is increased due to the possibility of connecting powerful equipment: a compressor, a welding machine, a start-charging device.

Necessary materials

A correctly drawn up wiring diagram will help you quickly calculate the number of cables, automation, sockets, etc. First of all, the cross section and length of the input cable are calculated. To do this, you can use the special table below.

Table calculation of the cable section depending on the power of the network

For example, let's calculate the parameters of the cable and other components for scheme No. 1, which was indicated in the previous section:

The cable length is determined based on the optimal route. The cable is purchased with a margin of 10%. It is highly recommended not to buy very cheap products. It is optimal if it is double-insulated wiring and insulating conductors.

Necessary tools for installation

Step-down transformer for the mains from 220 to 36 volts

To install the wiring, you will need the following tool:

pliers and side cutters;
cross and slotted screwdriver;
hammer and chisel;
electric drill and perforator;
grinder with a disc for concrete;
electrical tape and indicator screwdriver.

It is desirable that the handles of hand tools are made of rubberized materials. If the handle is made of plastic, then before performing work it must be wrapped with electrical tape in several layers.

Do-it-yourself wiring in the garage - step by step instructions

The installation of wiring and lighting in the garage consists of several stages: preparing the walls, pulling the input cable, installing internal wiring, connecting lighting and sockets.

Indicator screwdriver for checking the power on the contacts

When working with electricity, the safety rules must be observed:

Connection, pulling, installation and other work is carried out with the electricity turned off. It is better to verify this yourself - carefully check each contact with an indicator screwdriver. To do this, the tip of the screwdriver is applied to contacts and other surfaces, while the index finger is always in contact with the end of the handle.
When the switchboard is de-energized, an indication plate is hung on it: “Do not turn it on! Work is underway." If it is not possible to completely de-energize the shield, then connection work should be carried out only with rubber gloves, standing on a rubber mat.
It is forbidden to touch two contacts at the same time. When working with three-phase wiring, you should be extremely careful. The voltage between the conductors in the 380 V network is noticeably higher than in the standard 220 V. It is also important to remember that the effect of phase-to-phase voltage, especially when current passes through the heart, is fraught with death.

If, before performing work, you are unsure that you can bring the matter to the end with due care and concentration, then do not proceed with the installation of the wiring. It is better to call a professional who will do the job better and with minimal risk to health.

Preparatory work

Pulling the power cable "through the air"

Before installing electrical wiring, prepare the cable and walls for laying communications. The cable is cut with a margin of 10 cm for each connection. Before cutting, the wall surface is carefully measured according to the route drawn on the diagram.

the cable route must be strictly horizontal or vertical. The turn of the route occurs only at an angle of 90 o ;
wiring should be laid at a distance of 10–15 cm from the place where the walls meet the ceiling or floor;
switches are mounted at a height of at least 1.5 m. The distance from the doorway is at least 10-15 cm;
sockets cut into the wall at a height of at least 60 cm from the floor surface. The distance between adjacent outlets is at least 4 m;
a separate circuit breaker is provided for each group of sockets and lighting fixtures;
for a viewing hole, a step-down transformer and lighting fixtures of appropriate power are necessarily provided.

After that, markings are applied to the surface of the wall using a marking cord, marker or construction pencil. When using a pencil, the markup is checked by level. To do this, use a laser or bubble level.

If there are extraneous dimensional objects and containers with combustible mixtures in the garage, then before laying the wiring they must be taken out into the street.

External wiring

Pulling the power cable "underground"

The complexity and scope of work on connecting the power cable to the garage will depend on the territory in which the building is located. If the garage is located in the local area, then it is enough to dig a pit of the required length and lay an armored cable.

For a building erected on the territory of a garage cooperative or a separate building, you will need to submit an application to the organization that maintains the power line.

Further, the organization will consider the application, documents on the right of ownership and the drawn up power supply scheme. After that, a decision will be made and requirements are assigned that the owner must comply with before connecting the power grid.

According to SNiP, the power cable can be connected in two ways:

Underground - a hidden way to connect a building, which uses an armored cable. For its laying, a trench breaks out with a depth of at least 30 cm, below the freezing point of the soil. A sand cushion 15 cm thick is filled up and compacted at the bottom of the trench. A corrugated pipe is laid on the cushion and a cable is pulled. After this, the pipe is covered with a 15 cm layer of sand and finally immured in the ground.
By air - an open way to connect the building to the power grid. For this, a cable with a carrying cable is used, which is pulled between the support post and the garage. If the distance between the garage and the post exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them. The height of the cable tension above the carriageway should not be less than 6 m above ground level.

Work on connecting the power cable is carried out only by a specialist of the management company. In the process of work, you have the right to control the progress and quality of their implementation. This is especially true for the depth of the cable - at least 70 cm and the height of tension when entering the room - no more than 2.75 m.

Internal wiring in the garage

Chasing walls for electrical wiring

To enter the power cable into the garage, you will need to make a hole in the wall with a puncher. Hole diameter - 20–30 mm. The cable is pulled through a corrugated PVC pipe with a cross section of 20-25 m and is brought to the location of the electrical panel.

Further installation of electrical wiring inside the garage consists of the following:

According to the applied markings, cuts are made to a depth of 2.5-3 cm using a grinder with a disc for concrete. After that, the concrete is carefully hollowed out with a chisel and a hammer until the cable channel of the desired shape is formed.
PVC corrugation for cable protection when laying communications
In a pre-marked place, an electrical panel is installed for the required number of modules. For a single-phase network, as a rule, a shield for 9 modules is enough, and for a three-phase network - 12 modules or more.
When installing the shield, you will need to carefully remove the packaging and the factory protective film. To mount on the wall, unscrew the upper part of the housing and the door. Under them there will be a din-rail for modules and terminals. All elements must be temporarily removed.
To mount the shield in the wall, you will need to drill four holes and hammer in plastic plugs. After the back of the case is mounted on the wall using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the mounting holes.
electrical panel for the garage with automatic, RCD and meter
Before installing the modules in the shield, it is better to mark them. To do this, you can use plain paper and transparent tape. The name of the module is written on a piece of paper 1 × 0.5 cm and glued to the product. For example, if several RCDs are mounted, then the following is glued to the first device: “RCD of socket group No. 1”.
After marking, the modules are mounted on a DIN rail in any convenient order, but it is better to start with an RCD and a meter, and then place single-pole machines. Next, the modules are connected using jumpers from a cable with a diameter of 2.5 mm. To do this, the wire is cut into pieces of the desired length. The end of the jumpers for connecting to the machine is cleaned by 1 cm, and for connecting to the meter by 2 cm.
When connecting modules in a single-phase network, white and blue jumpers are used. The white wire is live and the blue wire is zero. The upper contacts are designed to connect phase wires from the electric meter, and the lower ones are for outgoing wires to sockets and lighting.
Wire staples for connecting the machine and RCD
After connecting the "phase" and "zero", it is necessary to connect the outgoing from the meter, RCD and automatic "zero" wires. To do this, the jumper is displayed on the contact terminals of the "zero" bus. Finally, the clamping screws must be carefully checked.
To connect the power cable, you will need to insert a protective corrugation with a conductor into the shield through a puncture in the product. The cable is connected to the input machine at the top of the device.
From the circuit breakers, a braided wire is pulled through cable channels or PVC pipes fixed to the wall. When the line is connected to the location of the sockets, a junction box is mounted. Installation is carried out in an open or hidden way.
Mounting the switchboard on the wall and the box under the ceiling
With the open method, the box is mounted on the ceiling or wall using self-tapping screws. With the closed method, a recess under the box is drilled in the wall using an electric drill with a crown nozzle. Further, to connect the wires, use the color-coded scheme that comes with the kit. A line is drawn from the box to the socket group and it is connected.
In a similar way, a line is drawn for lighting and switches. The cable is pulled to the location of the switch, where it is soldered and goes to the lighting fixtures.

After pulling and installing all the wiring assemblies, the quality of the connection of devices, insulation and connection of lighting is checked. If all work is done in accordance with SNiP, then you can check it by applying power.

Video: how to connect an RCD

Pit lighting

Inspection pit lighting in the garage with 36 volt lamps

Lighting and arrangement of sockets for a viewing hole, as a rule, is carried out only in garages where it is planned to install three-phase wiring with a voltage of 380 V. For this, all the work described above is performed. In addition to this, a step-down transformer is mounted and connected near the switchboard.

A line is drawn from the transformer in a closed way - a stab is knocked out in the wall and floor, where the cable protected by PVC corrugation is laid. After that, the cable is led directly to the viewing hole, where it diverges to the lighting group.

As lighting devices, low-voltage lamps 12–36 V based on LEDs are used. It is desirable that the lighting device be completely made of plastic. If there is a metal circuit or cover on the case, then it is additionally grounded.

Sockets and switches for lighting in the inspection pit should be located outside it. It is optimal if they are located in close proximity to the switchboard.

Video: do-it-yourself wiring in the garage

Garage lighting with LED strip

SMD 5630 LED strip and plastic corner

LED strips are a modern and energy-efficient way to illuminate rooms up to 30 m2. Especially in garages where the arrangement of general lighting is not required, but only the illumination of work areas is needed.

For contour lighting of a garage, SMD 3528 type tapes with a luminous flux of 5 lumens / diode are most often used. Tapes of the SMD 5630 types with a luminous flux of 40 lumens/diode are used as central lighting.

The technology for mounting and connecting the LED strip will consist of the following steps:

The diagram for connecting tapes to the power supply is shown in the photo above. Tapes cannot be connected in series. If you plan to install RGB tapes, then you need to use an RGB controller.3

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If you want to know how to conduct electrical wiring in a garage, then in this article we will try to understand this issue using the example of a garage box. Initially, the garage was connected with a PVS-3 x 2.5 wire for 220 V. Two sockets and six 60 W incandescent lamps were connected in the garage. At the entrance there were two machines of 16 A each, one for sockets and the other for lighting. The total area of the box is 64 m2 8 by 8 meters (Figure 1).

Rice. 1. Garage before wiring.

Wiring in the garage

The first thing we need is a wiring diagram in the garage. You can draw the scheme yourself or use the finished one (Fig. 2), simply modifying it to suit your needs. Before proceeding with the installation work, it is necessary to determine some points.

What voltage to bring to the garage: 220 V or 380 V?
What cable to connect electricity to the garage?
Which cable will go to sockets, and which one - to lighting?
What sockets to put?
What lamps for lighting to put?
What machines to put and is RCD needed?
Which meter to install if payment for electricity is by meter?
Calculate the number of cables, cable channels, corrugated pipes.

If the garage will be used as a warehouse, for storing personal items, boats, etc., then 220 V voltage will be enough. But if you are going to do welding work, connect a compressor, sink or other powerful equipment, then it is better to connect a three-phase 380 V power supply.

Rice. 2. Conduct electrical wiring in the garage - diagram.

L1 - 10 W LED spotlight with motion sensor. (installed above the entrance to the garage, convenient in the evening when it got dark fig. 4.)
L2 - LED lighting lamp 6 W with a motion sensor. (installed inside the garage, lights up when entering the garage.)
SV - ventilation system. (connected via separately, turns on if necessary.)

In our case, it was decided to bring 380 V three phases. The cable for connecting from the shield to the garage used VVG 4 x 4.0. They laid 35 m in the corrugation. For sockets, they took the VVG cable 3 x 2.5, for lighting - ShVVP 2 x 0.75. Lighting lamps are LED. Automatic machines and ouzo IEK. The counter is three-phase.

Additionally, below is a visual wiring diagram of the garage (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. Visual wiring diagram in the box.

Conduct electrical wiring in the garage - preparation

So, we have a schematic diagram of connecting sockets and lighting. You can mark places for installing lamps and sockets in place in the box and calculate the amount of cable that we need. We also consider the cable channel and corrugation (if necessary).

Rice. 3. Garage equipment.

Now let's figure out how many machines, RCDs we will install and what denomination. We divide all electrical installation products into groups.

L1 - two triple sockets 16 A and two double 16 A.
L2 - two triple sockets 16 A and one double 16 A.
L3 - lighting and ventilation.
L1, L2, L3 - one three-phase 32 A socket.

For lighting, five LED lamps 595 x 595 x 19 36 W 3000 Lm 6500 K were chosen for ceiling overhead and seven waterproof LED lamps SSP-456 2 x 18 W LED-T8 / G13 IP65 ASD (Fig. 3). Also two spotlights of 100 W with separate switches. For an extract the channel fan VK 250B power is 110 W.

So, the total power of lamps and ventilation is:

5 pieces. x 36 W = 180 W.
7 pcs. x 36 W = 252 W
2 pcs. x 100 W = 200 W
180 + 252 + 200 + 110 = 742 watts.

Where I is current A;
P is the power of the devices (usually indicated in the product specifications);
U - mains voltage 220 V.

742 ÷ 220 = 3.37 A.

We add 20% (as in the calculation of electrical networks for industrial production).
We get a total of 4.1 A.

All the parameters are received, we look at what happened, and we go to the store for shopping.

Introductory machine IEK 3p C / 32 A BA 47-29 - 1 pc. ≈ 340 rub.
Introductory RCD IEK VD1-63 4P 40 A 30 mA - 1 pc. ≈ 1750 rub.
Group L1,L2 - automatic IEK 1p C / 16 A BA 47-29 - 2 pcs. ≈ 90 rub/pc.
Group L3 - automatic IEK 1p C / 6 A BA 47-29 - 2 pcs. ≈ 90 rub/pc.
Group L1,L2 - RCD IEK VD1-63 2P 25 A 30 mA - 2 pcs. ≈ 890 rub/pc.
Three-phase electricity meter TAIPIT NEVA 303 1S0 - 1 pc. ≈ 2400 rub.
Ceiling lamp 595 x 595 x 19 36 W 3000 lm 6500 K - 5 pcs. ≈ 800 rub/piece
Lamp SSP-456 2 х 18 W LED-T8/G13 IP65 ASD — 7 pcs. ≈ 740 rub/pc.
Socket SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC BLNRA010311 — 4 pcs. ≈ 230 rub/pc.
Socket SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC BLNRA010211 — 3 pcs. ≈ 190 rub/pc.
LED lamp ASD LED 18 W 230 V G13 6500 K — 14 pcs. ≈ 170 rub/pc.
Cable VVG 4 x 4.0 - 35 m ≈ 125 rubles / m.
Cable VVG 3 x 2.5 - 50 m ≈ 60 rubles / m.
ShVVP cable 2 x 0.75 - 50 m ≈ 14 rubles / m.
Cable channel TDM SQ0402-0006 25 x 25 - 2 m ≈ 70 rubles / m.
Cable channel ELEKOR 10 x 7 - 8 m ≈ 24 rubles / m.
Cable channel ELEKOR 20 x 10 - 38 m ≈ 35 rubles / m.
Duct fan VK 250B 110 W. - 1 PC. ≈ 5800 rub.
Consumables (screeds, self-tapping screws, electrical tape, self-clamping clips) ≈ 1000 rubles.
Electrical panel - 2 pcs. ≈ 800 rub.

As a result, in order to do the installation of electrical wiring in the garage with our own hands, we need about 37,000 rubles. for equipment + 3000 rubles. local electrician for connecting to the shield and 3-5 days of free time.

Carry out electrical wiring in the garage - installation

So, at the moment, the preparation is over. Marking for lamps, sockets is done (we did this when we figured out what, where to install, and considered how much cable channel is required), you can proceed with the installation.

Rice. 4, 5, 6. Electrical wiring in the garage - installation.

The first day., lamps on pre-marked places (I will not describe how to do this, almost anyone can handle this). Next, we cut the cable channel and fasten it along the walls to the electrical installation products.

A little advice. When cutting and fastening cable channels, mark the cover and base, for example, 1-1, 2-2, and so on, so that later you don’t have to look for which cover is from which cable channel.

Attention!!! Do not connect the input cable to the shield until the completion and verification of electrical work. All work is carried out on de-energized electrical equipment!

Second day. We assemble and install the electrical panel (the machines in the shield are mounted on a DIN rail, so there will be no difficulties with this Fig. 5). Then we begin to stretch the cable from sockets and lamps to the shield. We leave a supply of cable near the sockets of about 10-15 cm, at the electrical panel and lamps - 20-30 cm (in general, you can estimate in place Fig 6). Do not forget to mark the cable near the shield, for example, ventilation, lamps, 1 group of sockets, etc. Otherwise, you will have to ring which cable is laid where. In our case, one room and few groups, even if you forgot about the labeling, can be fixed in 10 minutes. But if we are talking about several rooms and the number of groups goes to tens, then you can kill a few days.

A little advice. When laying the cable, so that it does not fall out of the cable channel, buy steel spring wire ∅ 0.5-1 mm. and cut it 1-2 mm longer than the base. The wire can temporarily fix the cable by inserting it into the spacer between the inner walls of the cable channel.

Day three. We're going to the garage. We connect sockets, lamps, having stripped and adjusted the cable in place. Who does not know how to do this, you can read in the article. Next, we have a schematic diagram of the wiring in the garage, we connect all the wires according to our diagram. We are not in a hurry to connect the input cable. We take a screwdriver and once again check that each wire is well screwed on (you can pull the cable to make sure that it does not fall out). Next, we check what we did for a short circuit. To do this, you can use a multimeter. Now that we have made sure that everything is done correctly, we connect the input cable to the machine and call the local electrician, let him turn on the breaker. After the call, we take an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter and check if we have three phases, if so, then turn on the introductory machine, while the rest of the machines are turned off. Three LEDs will light up on the counter, turn on all groups one by one. Let there be light!!! (Fig. 7)

Rice. 7. After wiring in the garage

Electrical wiring in the garage for 220 V

Rice. 9. Wiring diagram in the garage 220 V

A few more words about wiring for 220 V. In general, the principle of wiring does not change. The same cable, cable channels, light bulbs, sockets. We change only the counter and machines, and that's not all. Accordingly, we exclude a 380 V socket. The wiring diagram in a 220 V garage is presented above (Fig. 9). We change the introductory machine to IEK 2P 25 A, meter 220 V. We leave everything else as in the description for wiring at 380 V.

Conclusion

We hope that our article "Wiring in the garage" will be useful to you. In the article, we tried to tell in an accessible way how to make electrical wiring in the garage with our own hands and what electrical equipment can be installed.

The presence of the “correct” wiring hidden in the walls of the garage determines the degree of reliability of the building in terms of electrical safety, ease of use of sockets and switches. Perform the installation of the backbone system on your own or use the services of professional electricians - opinions differ. The answer to this question will be further in the text.

The power supply of the garage is a responsible subject. Work without failures, failures of consumer devices, as well as the safety of people depends on its organization.

The functioning of the wiring, its device is subject to the rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE). This is the main document for every electrician, and those who decide to do the electrification of the garage, workshop on their own are guided by its requirements.

There are 2 independent areas for the implementation of energy supply:

connection according to the established scheme;
ordering of consumers.

The first option takes into account the calculation, placement of electrical appliances on the drawing using standardized symbols, depending on the type of connection (3 phases, one) and the voltage in the network. Grounding is necessarily provided (not to be confused with a neutral conductor), it is also a good idea to install a residual current device: it works when a person comes into contact with current-carrying elements, breaking the circuit.

The RCD at the input is convenient in that it can be adjusted to a current value that is less than the dangerous limit (0.1 Amperes). So, if you carelessly touch the cartridge or socket, the smart unit will instantly turn off the power, protecting a person from electric shock.

The wiring for consumers provides for distribution into groups, each of which is assigned its own current value and a separate circuit breaker. This method allows, if necessary, to cut off "extra" subscribers, for example, when searching for the cause of a malfunction or during the repair of a network section. Practice shows that, among other advantages, this scheme optimizes the load on the highway.

The main switch connects to an external power source, and already inside the local network, distribution is made to sockets and lighting or internal wiring and a separately output socket for an energy-intensive welding transformer. There are industrial (380 volts, 3 phases) and household (220 volts, one phase) networks.

The connection scheme, the size (section) of the conductors, and the design of the switches depend on this condition. When making a drawing, it is not necessary to scrupulously follow the requirements for observing the scale and accuracy of the designations. The main thing is that everything is clear to the performer of the work.

with viewing hole

In a garage with a pit provided for by the project and implemented in kind for inspecting the bottom, the chassis will require additional “distribution points” of electricity - sockets, lighting fixtures, point or grouped in panels. This means that this is taken into account in the diagram, when calculating the load and determining the cable cross-section, and purchasing equipment. It doesn’t matter if they use the services of a familiar electrician when installing the wiring or do the work on their own, but there should be no unaccounted for, missed moments.

Laying - hidden or in the sleeve. Even better, if the voltage in the “underground” part is reduced, 36 volts: this will increase the safety of workers.

Without viewing hole

A garage without a viewing hole is easier both in construction and in terms of power supply: consumers are concentrated in the ground part, sockets, lighting fittings, special connectors (for example, with grounding) are also located there. All subscribers are necessarily reflected in the diagram, with the allocation of a separate cut-off machine for each.

Selection of wires and cables according to load power

One of the main principles of the organization of power supply is the correct selection of the section, type of insulation and material of the power cable. For this, there are standard diameters and the corresponding values of power, current load. For example, for 500 watts and a current of 2.17 amperes, a copper wire of 0.43 square millimeters (0.62 aluminum) is enough.

In general, the choice between copper and aluminum, open wiring and laid in the walls will always be relevant. Copper cable can withstand a greater load with a smaller cross section, but it is more expensive. Aluminum wire is stiffer, it is not recommended to splice it with copper in order to avoid electrochemical corrosion. Open wiring (laid in a plastic or metal sleeve) is easier in the device, but buried is safer.

The use of low-voltage lamps for lighting allows you to reduce energy consumption and increase safety. Most modern spotlights are created using LED technology, have increased brightness with minimal power consumption, and are designed for 12-volt power supply.

If there is no possibility (ability) to perform the necessary calculations, they turn to electricians. But at random, blindly choose the amount, the cable section is impossible. Strictly according to the size of the current load, circuit breakers are installed. It's better to have a little extra than not enough.

Necessary tools for installation

To perform the wiring, connect the cable to each other, depending on the selected splicing method (twisting, on terminal blocks or adapters), you will need:

Pliers.
Wire cutters.
Roulette.
Household knife.
Screwdriver (with interchangeable bits or slotted and cross slotted).
Hammer drill or impact drill.

A pre-purchased wire must be cut into measured pieces, cleaned, and secured. To do this, you need pliers, wire cutters and a knife. When installing machines, a metering device (meter), one cannot do without a tool for punching walls - a puncher or a drill. And screwdrivers are designed for tightening bolted connections, self-tapping screws, screws. This is the most essential piece of equipment.

Calculation of the amount of materials

How many machines, meters of wire, junction boxes and fasteners, as well as lamps are needed, are determined based on a pre-compiled scheme. The number of outlets depends on the planned ease of use, the availability of functional areas in the garage.

The minimum required number is 2, ideally there should be a socket on each wall where electrical equipment will be connected to it. It is permissible to install a block of several network sockets, this will allow you to simultaneously power several units of consumers from one point. All connections are parallel. The cable consumption is determined by the length of the segments along straight lines, taking into account the rounding when laying in the sleeve and a small margin within 10%.

For a single-phase network with grounding, a 3-core cable is taken, which is pulled from the junction box to the outlet. Splices are best avoided by using solid pieces: in a humid garage environment, every extra joint will be a source of problems.

Ceiling lights can be mounted on a stretched steel wire, so there will be no problem with their installation.

Before starting the calculation, it’s a good idea to take measurements from the walls (length and width), so that later on the plan you can place energy analysis points, and after that determine the cable consumption. Grounding can be laid with a separate larger busbar, but a standard 3-core cable is more often used.

The sequence of steps for installing electrical wiring with your own hands

Begin work by drawing up a diagram. The next stage is the installation of a meter and a group of circuit breakers along with the main one at the entrance. If necessary, replace / arrange the cable entry from the external switchboard to the garage.

It is convenient to place the metering device and knife switches in a special box (plastic or metal), providing indicators which machine belongs to which section of the network. Such an algorithm will allow you to easily lay the cable in the garage, leaving the connection to the supply voltage in the end.

Having installed sockets, switches, having mounted light sources, a cable is attached to them. All bolted connections are securely tightened, the quality of equipment operation depends on it.

At the very end, they connect to the machines, after which they carry out a test run. In a properly assembled scheme, everything will work.

street work

In order to properly organize the wiring device, conduct electrical work, you must first lay the external line. This can be done by specially authorized specialists from the local department of Energy Supervision, trained in the electrical safety group. They are also involved in the installation and sealing of the counter.

Grounding is laid from the contour. This can be a thick metal sheet buried in the ground or a barrel, to which a pin with a special terminal for attaching the line is welded. The cable (copper or aluminum) is bolted to the pin, providing protection from external atmospheric influences, and then inserted into the garage.

Indoor laying

After the electric meter is installed, they proceed to the cabling inside the garage. The procedure is simple: pieces of wire are placed in a sleeve (plastic or metal), which is fixed on the walls. It is useful to leave a small margin when calculating the length of the cable: this will save you from unpleasant surprises in case of an error, and it is never too late to cut off the excess.

The wire is laid without stretch and extra effort, with maximum observance of right angles. Properly executed electrical wiring works well and looks aesthetically pleasing.

Connecting an electricity meter

It is better to put an electric meter that can withstand a current of 50 amperes. With the choice of a specific model that has been certified and approved for installation, they will be prompted by the relevant authority. Self-activity is inappropriate here: it will lead to unnecessary problems, conflict situations and fines. In addition, the meter must be sealed in a special way, and only an authorized employee of the Energy Supply Company can do this.

Connection of RCDs and machines

After installing the meter and laying the external cable, the consumer has every right to proceed with the independent installation of automatic machines, RCDs, and electrical fittings. Before connecting devices, it should be remembered that compliance with safety requirements when working with electricity is not a whim, but a necessary measure.

All actions are performed with a de-energized line, with dry hands, in protective gloves, in adequate condition. It is convenient to place the RCD and switches on a special block, in one case with a protective transparent cover, directly near the meter.

Sockets and switches

Fittings are selected in proportion to their needs, but of the same type, certified, and, if possible, in a waterproof design (sockets).

Most garages are unheated buildings, the air humidity is high there, so a protective cover on the outlet will protect its contacts from oxidation.

Pit lighting

To conduct light into the pit, use a low-voltage transformer mounted on a special shield. It is powered by lighting and sockets. The power of the transformer must be sufficient, taking into account all the consumers involved.