Installation of plastic windows in the opening without a quarter. Installing windows without a quarter

If earlier you or your friends used the services of firms for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that the installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details on the norms, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! The manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

Nevertheless, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, you can save a decent amount of money this way.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! The quarter is a 6 cm wide inner frame (or ¼ brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and reinforces the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on the anchors, and the foam will be covered with special cover strips. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster to make the result more accurate.
Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements need to be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm for the bend to the already existing drainage. Also, this takes into account the width of the insulation and cladding (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the obtained figure. With regard to the departure, then it should overlap the heating radiator by a third.

Note! are measured at the end of the installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be referred to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the bag out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has its disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is put assembled, then it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. For this, the glazing bead is slightly pry off with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical glazing beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the awnings. The handle is turned to "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Mullions are special jumpers intended for dividing the sashes.

Then you need to make a markup for the anchors and make holes along it - two from the bottom / top and three on each side. This requires anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, aerated concrete), then the fastening is performed using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled in the day before installation. So the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before the installation of a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out together with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the sealant and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is peeled off.

Step 4. The adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. The polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to align the structure), only after that it is attached to the wall. The underlays can be left as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct position of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. Typically, traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window has risen evenly, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall (approximately 6-10 cm) is drilled with a perforator through the previously prepared holes in the structure. The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the flatness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will "skew".

Prices for polyurethane foams and nail gun cleaners

Polyurethane foam and nail gun cleaners

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an outflow is attached to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.

The edges of the low tide are recessed into the walls by a few centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! The bottom slot is also sealed before installation.

Step 7. Assembling the window

After fixing the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The leaves are opened, their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening / closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is closed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will "lead". If done correctly, the foam will come out a few centimeters after drying.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The sill is trimmed so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while, until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Installation instructions for plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get down to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already "set").

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are also some nuances - such, for example, as installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right in our new article.

Depending on the choice of the technology and material for the construction of walls by the builders, openings in buildings can have a different configuration - there are windows with a quarter and without. The existing differences do not fundamentally affect the basic characteristics of the houses. However, the further choice of methods for measuring and installing window structures depends on them. In order to avoid mistakes when choosing windows, determining their correct dimensions and during installation, we recommend that you read the useful information from this article.

Window and a quarter: what is it?

A window with a quarter can not always be identified at first glance from the street side, but upon closer examination, its distinctive features are immediately visible. In the front plane, along the entire perimeter of the opening, including its lower zone, there is a small side. The technology got its name due to the fact that when the walls were erected, the front masonry blocked the window opening by a quarter of the brick length. This distance is quite enough so that the ledge does not hinder the operation of the windows and successfully fulfills the functions assigned to it. Such a side provides a number of advantages to the window structure:

stable position of the structure in the opening - a quarter insures the frame from falling out;
a higher level of tightness - the presence of sides makes it difficult for moisture to enter the assembly seam and excludes blowing the structure;
lightweight installation - the protrusions serve as a guideline and boundary, so workers do not waste time and other resources on performing additional operations.

Although all of the listed advantages are of great importance, it is necessary to place special emphasis on a high level of tightness. Thanks to this characteristic, heat loss is significantly reduced, windows fog up less, mold does not form on frames, sashes and slopes.

The presence of a quarter extends the service life of the assembly seam, since the side effectively protects the hardened foam from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, wind, dust and water.

This method of erecting external walls is also effective in the construction of concrete and wooden houses. In all cases, the resulting side does not completely cover the frame and serves as an additional barrier and support for it. The presence of a ledge makes it possible to install a window in a quarter in accordance with GOST.

Quarter-less window - differences

The difference between the two types of openings lies in the relief of the surface of the slopes. It is quite simple to detect it, and even a person far from construction can do it. Quarter-less windows do not have a pronounced transition from internal to external slopes. Smooth walls along the perimeter of openings in such houses allow you to independently determine the dimensions of these areas during the installation of window blocks. That is, during installation, the movement of the frame forward or backward is not limited by any structural elements of the building.

Usually, such openings are found in private housing construction, since real estate owners simplify construction technologies for themselves as much as possible. In addition, when erecting modern buildings from dimensional foam blocks, it is problematic to create a small ledge in the openings. At the same time, the absence of a side does not have a critical effect on the main operational characteristics of window structures, but it still creates certain difficulties during installation:

additional protection of the assembly seam is required;
problems arise with the use of the PSUL sealing tape, which allows the structure to "breathe";
it takes more time to give the correct position to the windows and to securely fix them in the opening.

If in the process of installing windows in openings without a quarter, the necessary measures are not taken, then depressurization of the assembly seam and premature wear of the frozen foam are possible. As a result, the energy efficiency of any windows decreases, condensation falls out, mold and mildew develop, and even there is a risk of deformation of structures. To avoid such unpleasant consequences, you need to correctly measure with subsequent installation.

Features of window measurement with and without a quarter

The procedures for determining the correct dimensions of window structures differ for the two types of openings. When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of buildings, otherwise installation problems are guaranteed, which can only be solved by making new windows.

Since when performing this procedure, many nuances arise that a person without experience will overlook, the measurement of a window and a quarter should be carried out by a specialist. Moreover, this service is provided by many manufacturers and dealers free of charge.

However, situations often arise when knowledge of the dimensions of window structures is needed to obtain. In this case, a small error is not terrible, and you can measure the window for such purposes yourself.

For openings without significant distortions, this is very easy to do. This requires:

Locate the artboard where the window will be mounted. Usually, for this, the total wall thickness is divided by 3, after which the depth of the inner slope is measured. Most often it is 2/3 of the wall thickness. Accordingly, the outer slope is 1/3 of the total size.

The height of the opening is measured in the marked plane at three points (right, center and left). For further calculations, the smallest indicator of the obtained value is left.

In the same plane at the bottom, in the middle and at the top of the light opening, its width is measured. The minimum size is again used as a calculated value.

After determining the actual height and width, you can easily calculate the dimensions of the window. To do this, the size of the gaps between the opening and the frame must be subtracted from the dimensions obtained. According to GOST 30971-02, the tolerances for assembly seams are 40-60 mm on each side.

For the lower zone of the opening, when determining the gap, it is advisable to take into account the actual height of the support profile.

The recommended algorithm of actions can be used only in cases where the openings do not have significant distortions. In more complex situations, a different technique is used, based on inscribing a rectangle into a trapezoid, parallelogram or irregular quadrangle. These actions should already be performed only by the master.

Sometimes in a straight opening, a quarter is specially made before installation. In such cases, the dimensions previously taken are not suitable for the manufacture of windows. The procedure for determining the correct dimensions must be repeated using the algorithm for openings with a quarter.

When performing this procedure, you need to correctly measure the light opening and determine what kind of overlap of the frame profile with the protruding section of the wall will be. Indeed, a quarter of the window, the dimensions of which, ideally, on each side should be 65 mm, in practice can be any. According to the rules, the window frame should go inward outside the skylight:

from above - 15-20 mm;
right and left - by 20-40 mm;
from below, the frame is raised with a support profile 10-30 mm above the edge of the gap (this is required for a successful installation of the ebb).

However, compliance with the standards is not always possible, since the protruding quarter of the window in the brickwork and concrete or wooden wall may be less than the recommended dimensions. In such cases, the overlap should be reduced to such a value that the window fits into the lumen of the inner (larger) opening. If you do not take into account this feature and act in a formulaic manner, the frame may turn out to be wider or higher than the required dimensions, and then problems will arise during the installation of the entire structure or the installation of the ebb. The metering algorithm itself consists of the following sequence of actions:

The height and width of the skylight, which is limited by the outer slopes, are determined. This is done in the same way as when taking measurements from a window without a quarter.

On each side, the dimensions of the internal protrusions are taken along the entire perimeter of the opening.

Taking into account the data obtained and the recommended tolerances, the calculation of the possible overlap of the wall and frame in the upper and side zones is performed. All this is done traditionally, taking into account the width of the assembly joint (40-60 mm), filled with expanding foam.

For the lower part of the window, the exact size of its elevation above the lower plane of the opening is determined.

When calculating the height of the frame, you must also take into account the distance between the inside of the wall and the window sill.

Specificity of installation in an opening with and without a quarter

Installation methods in different openings do not have a fundamental difference. After all, the protrusions only additionally protect the structures from falling out, blowing out and exposure to moisture. In this case, the frames in different types of openings are subjected to the same loads, so they must be fixed taking them into account. Installation of windows in a quarter is carried out according to the requirements contained in GOST 30971-2012, which can be found in on OknaTrade.

When windows are installed without a quarter protruding into the opening, it is no different from the procedure according to GOST. All requirements remain relevant - the width of the assembly joints, the distance between the fasteners and the permissible distortions of the structure. The differences lie in the need to take measures to protect the assembly seam from the outside. For these purposes, it is recommended to use special trims and outer trims. They help not only to protect the cured foam, but also allow the installation of PSUL tape, which will give the windows the opportunity to "breathe".

It is preferable to install windows in openings with a quarter. If this is not possible, then all measures must be taken to protect the assembly seam from external influences. It is recommended to discuss this point with the installer team in advance.

Installation of windows always begins with measuring the window opening. This procedure is the most important: the overall quality of the installation will depend on the correct measurement.

For this reason, it is recommended to entrust this procedure to professionals. But it doesn't hurt yourself to know how to measure the windows correctly, because this, at least, will help you determine how experienced the specialists who install the windows are, and whether you should not think about contacting another, more competent organization.

What are the consequences of an incorrect measurement of a window opening?

Incorrectly taken dimensions of the window opening often lead to considerable problems. For example, the window frame may be larger than the opening, and this is additional spending on expanding this very opening. Small windows will also be a hassle. As a result of their installation, gaps may appear, which will have to be filled with polyurethane foam, or the issue may be solved by increasing the slopes. Again, unnecessary costs, both time and materials.

In addition, such a window is unlikely to cope well with the functions assigned to it: to protect an apartment or house from cold air, precipitation, etc.

It is worth noting that the approach to measurement depends on different types of window openings. We will talk about this further.

How to correctly measure window openings with a "quarter"?

Professionals say that it is most difficult to measure window openings with a "quarter" (photo 1). In this case, we mean openings that have a protrusion in ¼ of the brick of the outer perimeter. This protrusion is necessary in order to protect the structure from falling out.

So, how to correctly measure windows that have such a protrusion. When measuring, it is important to take into account that usually these "quarters" are asymmetrical, their sizes may differ: for example, distortions are possible, both vertically and horizontally.

When measuring a window, specialists always follow the main rules (so that during the installation process there are no unnecessary problems):

the size of the window frame should be such that it extends beyond the side “quarter” by about two to four centimeters, i.e. the frame should be wider;
the frame should go beyond the upper wall of the opening no more than one and a half to two centimeters;
the window sill timber is made one to two centimeters higher than the lower wall of the opening: this is necessary for a problem-free installation of the ebb.

The figures show in detail how the window with a “quarter” is measured.

Figure 1: Measuring the width.

A - the width of the window along the slopes outside (add 4 cm to it);

B - the distance between the points where the internal slopes will adjoin the frame;

D is the actual width of the window;

C - the width of the opening from the inside.

Note: after measurements it is necessary to check that the width D is not greater than the distance B and the width C.

Figure 2: Measuring the height.

E is the height of the window without a substitute profile;

F is the height of the opening from the base to the upper slope (outside); 1-2 cm are subtracted from it for the gap, and 2-3 cm are added for the frame entry for the "quarter" from above;

G - height of the substitute profile

H is the height of the window, taking into account the wildcard profile.

How to correctly measure a window without a "quarter"?

The presence of a "quarter" at the window opening is not always found. Such protrusions are usually not made in panel and wooden houses (photo 2).

Naturally, such openings require a different approach to sizing. Let's name the basic rules for measuring such windows:

when measuring the opening from its width, it is subtracted from 2 to 10 centimeters in order to leave space for assembly seams;
there is usually only one horizontal gap - at the top; its width varies from 3 to 6 centimeters.

General rules for measuring windows for all types of openings

It is important to remember when measuring the window and the fact that the frame during installation should not rest against the opening, it should be slightly smaller. This gap, called the mounting gap, is necessary in order to leave room for the natural expansion of the structure. According to the rules for installing plastic windows, the seam can be from 2 to 5 centimeters.

When measuring windows, it is important to remember that measurements must be taken both indoors and outdoors.

When determining the width of the future window, we measure the opening at the top, in the middle and at the bottom, and choose the smallest value. The distance to the clearances is subtracted from this number, the resulting value will correspond to the size of the frame. The height is also measured at several points (left, middle and right), and the distance required for the mounting clearances and the substitute profile is also subtracted from the smallest value. The resulting difference is the height of the future horse.

The window measurement technology only seems simple. In order to prevent unnecessary errors, it is best to entrust the measurement of the window opening to professionals who can correctly calculate the dimensions of the frame even for the most non-standard openings.

Installation of PVC windows is a simple matter if you have at least once held construction tools in your hands and are at least a little versed in materials. Installation of such windows will take a little time: half an hour or an hour for dismantling old windows and 2 hours for installing new ones.

Installation of PVC windows. Installation according to GOST

GOST for the installation of PVC windows, unfortunately, in most cases is only a recommendation, but some rules should be adhered to during the installation of windows. First of all, this applies to preliminary measurements. Determine the type of window opening - with or without a quarter. Below is a visual example of a schematic view of an opening with a quarter (A), without a quarter (B).

Scheme 1 - Window opening with a quarter and without a quarter

Measurement of windows without a quarter

The installation of windows without a quarter is carried out by installing windows in a cleaned window opening. To order a window:

subtract 5 cm from the size of the window opening vertically - the indicator of the height of the window;
subtract 3 cm from the size of the window opening horizontally - an indicator of the width of the window.

These gaps will subsequently be filled with polyurethane foam: i.e. 1.5 cm on each vertical side of the window, as well as 1.5 cm for the upper horizontal and 3.5 cm for the bottom (for mounting the window sill).

We measure the length and width of the window sill, the external ebb and add at least 5 cm to the obtained numbers - the window sill should cut into the wall from both sides of the window.

Measurement of windows with a quarter

We measure the window opening horizontally at the narrowest point. Add 3 cm to the resulting number (1.5 cm each on the sides of the window) - this is the required window width. We measure vertically the length from the bottom of the window opening to the upper quarter - this is the required vertical size of the window.

The window sill and low tide are measured in the same way as the quarter-less option.

As a result, you should have:

window height indicator;
the width of the window;
the length of the sill;
the width of the window sill;
low tide length;
the width of the low tide.

Scheme 2 - Window measurements

Installation technology

The technology for installing new windows in old houses is similar. The only amendment is that the measurements of the new window are made according to the outer dimensions of the window frame to be dismantled.

When ordering a window, please also check whether the delivery set includes:

windowsill;
stubs;
mounting profile (mounting profile);
anchor plates for fastening the window;
instructions for the installation of PVC windows (some manufacturers attach it in the kit).

When ordering a window, you should also know the answers to such questions:

What type of window profile do you want to order - 3-chamber, 4-chamber or 5-chamber?
What type of double-glazed window did you choose - 1, 2, 3-chamber?
The way to open your window is a blind window, an opening window, a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation, or a combined window (a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation and micro-ventilation).

By the way, if you want to get a quality product for a reasonable price, you should choose from mainly German and, not surprisingly, domestic manufacturers of window systems: REHAU, Veka, KBE, Schuko, Aluplast, Kemmerling, Brugmann or Trocal.

The installation technology provides for two methods: installation of PVC windows with unpacking and installation of windows without unpacking.

Scheme 3 - Construction of a metal-plastic window

The first method involves preliminary disassembly of the window: removal of glazing beads, removal of double-glazed windows from the frame, fixing the frame to the wall with dowels, and the subsequent installation of double-glazed windows and glazing beads.

The second technology for removing double-glazed windows does not require: the frame is fixed with fasteners fixed on the outer surface of the wall, and not with dowels through and through.

The installation method with unpacking can sometimes lead to fogging of the windows, and with a lack of experience, glazing beads and double-glazed windows can be damaged, and the installation process itself will take much longer. Of course, correct installation will not lead to any negative consequences. However, be extremely careful!

The unpacking method is rightfully considered more reliable, especially if the frame has been fixed with large long anchors. If we are talking about fixing a window on the floor above the 15th floor, about installing large windows (2x2 m), the right choice is to fix the frame through and through, disassembling the window.

Required tool

To install windows you will need:

screwdriver;
level;
gun (for a cylinder of polyurethane foam and sealant);
polyurethane foam (1-3 cylinders for 1 standard window);
PSUL for external waterproofing;
Primer;
puncher;
set of hexagons;
jigsaw;
stationery knife;
pencil;
paint brush;
roulette.

Installing windows. Work progress

In the process of installation work, you should be guided by the previously outlined plan: the window installation scheme (you drew it yourself or it was submitted as an example in the instructions from the manufacturer of window systems) will help to avoid mistakes and strictly follow the plan. If you doubt whether your calculations or ideas about the process of installing windows are correct, a technological map for installing windows can help - a universal set of rules and regulations for installation, guided by which you will be sure of the correctness of your actions.

We dismantle the old window and prepare the surface for the installation of the new window system.

Preparing the tool for work.

To improve the adhesion of waterproofing tapes to the surface of the opening, we treat it with a primer. Apply the primer with a paint brush.

Having removed the cellophane packaging of the windows, we glue the inner vapor barrier tape to the frame along the semi-perimeter.

Figure 1 - Semi-perimeter gluing of the window frame with vapor barrier tape

We glue the frame with an external vapor barrier - we fix the PSUL on the outer surface of the frame. When pasting, do not allow gaps between the tape joints. PSUL - a vapor-permeable tape will prevent the foam from escaping when processing gaps, protecting not only the appearance of the structure, but also the foam from environmental influences - precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and wind that destroy the foam.

We install the frame in the opening, align and fix, focusing on the installation rules:

on the frame prepared for installation, we apply the markings of the places for subsequent fastening;
we fix it on 4 sides of the frame with a step of 70 cm, while the distance from the corner of the window frame to the first fastener should be no more than 15 cm;
fasteners are fixed to the window frame (the self-tapping screw must be fixed in the metal inside the frame, therefore the correct installation technology provides for the use of self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4-5 mm, for large window sizes the diameter of the self-tapping screw should be 12 mm);
use anchor plates as fasteners;
in places for the installation of fasteners, we make recesses in the window opening (fasteners are recessed by 2-4 cm for the convenience of working with slopes after completion of the window installation);
the window should be leveled (for a slight leveling of the horizontal level of the window, you can use wooden wedges, placing them under the frame at the right points);
to fix the frame in the opening, we install wedges - first the lower two, thanks to which you can set the lower and upper edges of the frame to the horizon (so that the window does not dangle, it is appropriate to fix the upper anchor), then the wedges are fixed along the vertical of the window;
we attach the window to the window opening.

On the outside of the window opening, we attach a diffuse tape under the low tide.

After adjusting the fittings (it is not recommended to buy fittings from a manufacturer other than the manufacturer of the window system, however, if necessary, pay attention to the offers from Winkhaus, Siegenia, GU, Aubi, Schuko (Germany), Maco (Austria)), you can foam the window (apply foam around the entire perimeter of the window frame, taking into account that this mounting material increases its volume up to 3 times) and 15-20 minutes after processing all the gaps, it is necessary to bend back the protective film previously applied around the perimeter of the window frame so that it completely covers the mounting gaps ( see figure).

Figure 2 - Processing of assembly seams

We fix the ebb. It is advisable to install it under the window - this way you can avoid water seepage at the connecting seam of the ebb and the window frame.

Do-it-yourself PVC window installation in winter

Many are worried about the question: "Is it possible to winter installation of PVC windows?"

Certainly possible! And the installation technology is unchanged. The only thing worth paying attention to is the temperature conditions for the materials used during installation. In particular - the indicators of the use of polyurethane foam.

Special winter options have been developed, thanks to which you can work even at -10 ° C!

When choosing polyurethane foam for winter work, focus on the products of the Macroflex Profi (Finland), Illbruck (USA) and Moment (Russia) brands.

Installation of a PVC window sill

Installation of PVC window sill completes the installation of new window blocks.

The length and width of most windowsills are standard. In any case, you need to take a window sill with a margin of length and width. The excess can be easily cut off with a grinder.

Work progress:

Bring the window sill under the window and level it using wooden wedges or any other durable material at hand.

The window sill should go into the wall by at least 1.5 cm.

Before final installation, make sure that the window sill does not sag by pressing in several places.

The slope of the window sill relative to the window should not exceed 3 °.

Blow out the cavity under the windowsill with construction foam.

The surface of the window sill must be evenly immersed for at least 12 hours so that the expanding foam does not affect the installation angle of the window sill.

A day later, the remaining foam is removed with a clerical knife, and the joint between the window and the window sill is treated with a sealant.

Scheme 4 - Installation of the window sill

All that remains is the installation of slopes on PVC windows - and you're done!

According to GOST! Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

$ Installation of PVC windows: the price of the issue

The cost of work will depend on how much your window costs: firms that provide a full package of services often deduce window installation rates from the cost of a window - from 10% starting. Thus, when doing work with your own hands, the savings on installing windows can range from $ 40 to $ 60 (for one window).

Installation of PVC windows. Price:

Kiev - from 100-130 UAH. per m²;
Moscow - from 1,000 - 1,200 rubles. per m².

The cost of plastic windows with installation:

The cost of plastic windows with installation is on average from $ 80-90 (blind window 1m by 1.5m) and up to $ 2,200 (glazing of a 3.4m by 1.5m section with a sliding two-chamber window system). As you can see, the range of prices is amazing. Installation of windows - the price is not always included in the total amount. Therefore, when signing an order for the manufacture of a window and the corresponding contract, make sure what is included in the final price, and what you still have to spend on.

An estimate is an extremely important document: upon receiving it in your hands, ask to provide you with a full price list of works and materials - checking is never superfluous.

The cost of installation, paid separately, is different: prices vary between $ 30-70.

If the client is not able to pay the entire amount at once, some firms provide goods and services to the brigade of their masters in installments.

By the way, the window business is a profitable business: for example, winning a tender for the glazing of high-rise buildings or a residential area under construction is like hitting a jackpot in a casino. A company's profits can be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.