Modeling painting with a brush. Painting and simulating various effects of the Tiger tank

You can paint models of various techniques with a brush or an airbrush. Novice modelers usually use the first method. Therefore, here we will talk about how to paint models with brushes. Painting is carried out after final assembly, when absolutely all parts are installed. This process includes several stages.

Degreasing

In order to degrease the model, it is best to use gasoline or alcohol. Moisten cotton wool with one of these substances and wipe the model with it. You can also degrease the model with liquid soap or dish detergent. After degreasing, all traces of the used grease solvent must be removed. Moreover, if you used a soap solution, you need to rinse it off with a jet of water and leave to dry. There is no need to rinse off alcohol or gasoline - they will evaporate on their own after a while. After that, you must not touch the model with your hands.

Primary priming

The primer holds the dried paint on the model surface. First, check if you need a primer on this model. Apply a primer to the sprue part and let it dry. Then apply the paint over the primer and at the same time on the other part of the sprue that is not covered with the primer. After the paint is dry, try scratching it with your fingernail. If there is no difference, no primer is needed.

Cover the transparent areas with a protective cover. For this, masking tape is used. Remove it either after applying the last coat of paint, or after varnishing (if you do not want to varnish the transparent parts).

Now brush the primer evenly over the entire model. If you have planted a drop or primer drips, do not try to remove this defect. Wait for it to dry and move on to the next step.

Intermediate grinding

This step is needed to correct the roughness of the primary priming. Sanding is carried out with very fine sandpaper. Now you can remove all streaks and "blots". In this case, it is possible that in some places you will completely erase the primer. This can be corrected in the next step.

Final priming

Now use the brush to achieve the most even distribution of the primer over the surface of the model. If you find that there was a defect in the sanding process, or if you made a mistake in the final priming, steps 3 and 4 should be repeated. People who understand how to paint models correctly sometimes go through several cycles before they achieve the perfect surface.

Applying the main tone

Attention! Model paints should not be nitro-enamel. They can eat away at the plastic from which the model is made. Paints that are soluble in water or alcohol are best suited.

Examine the paint scheme for the model. The main tone will be the color that occupies the largest area. Moreover, if the main tone is light - silver, red, yellow, blue, etc., then for a start it would be better to paint the entire model with white paint. This will allow the main tone to appear brighter.

The main tone is applied in several thin layers. If you have used acrylic paints for the models, then after finishing applying the basic tone, you should cover the model with clear varnish.

At this stage, sanding defects (rough marks) may appear that were not visible after priming. They are still removable: sanding and, if necessary, priming can be repeated. Then you need to use the paint again.

Camouflage application

At this stage, any mistake can completely ruin the appearance of the entire model. Therefore, it requires the most careful approach. There are several ways to apply camouflage. All of them are based on the use of different masks. Most often, paper and tape are used as masks. Experienced modelers, who know how to paint models correctly, use their imagination to create masks. So, some of them use plasticine and other improvised means.

If the camouflage is multi-colored, light tones are applied first, then dark ones. In this case, each tone, as in the previous case, is applied in separate thin layers. When painting with acrylic paints, after completing the application of each of the tones, the treated area is covered with a colorless varnish.

Application of decals

To make them look realistic, you need to both paint the models and apply decals (transfer stickers) to them. Wet decals look most natural. Most of the difficulties are connected with their application. First, cut out the desired area of the decal, avoiding unnecessary margins and sharp corners. For this, nail scissors are used. A blade and a scalpel act as auxiliary means. In some cases (letters, numbers) it is impossible to cut a borderless decal.

The cut area should be immersed in water for a few seconds. After that, you need to hold it in the air for some time to soften the glue. While the glue is softening, cover the place where the decal will be installed with a layer of water. Place the decal backing on water and use a brush to distill the film off the backing. You will have enough time to use a brush, match or tweezers to place the decal in the right place. The main thing is that there is always a layer of water under the film during positioning. After the final installation, wipe off excess water and press down on the decal with a dry cloth.

Sometimes it is more convenient to cut large decals into parts and alternately dock these parts with each other on the surface of the model.

On some surfaces (for example, on the ribbed armor of German tanks) "wet" decal can only be applied by a skilled watchmaker or jeweler. If you are having difficulty, you may want to use a dry decal or apply the image with a thin brush.

Final varnishing

Apply a final coat of varnish over the paint and decals. You may want to remove the protective coating from the transparent areas before doing this. If you don't want to cover them with varnish, remove the protection after it dries.

The model can now be handled. Sometimes it can be placed under running water from the tap to get rid of the dust.

- your guide to the world of scale modeling!

Last night, when I started uploading photos of the first stage of work on the F-18F Super Hornet from Akademi to my Instagram account, one of my followers wrote to me. He asked me to tell you about how to apply a wash, traces of operation on the model of armored vehicles.

Before giving any advice, I familiarized myself with the level of his work. And I realized that here it is far from the actual practice of applying all these tricky things. It is necessary to explain the process of working on the model itself. So that a person can move from a simple, one-color painting to full cycle works.

It was the desire to explain the very sequence of the process that became the basis for writing this material.

Here I will describe the structure of the cycle of work on the models of armored vehicles. Without getting into the details of each stage. This you, if you wish, can do it yourself. It's important to just understand what and why goes.

Therefore, this material is intended primarily for novice modelers. If you follow (even weakly and poorly) all these steps in the suggested sequence, you will achieve an acceptable result. It only remains to improve the understanding of each of the stages in particular.

Perhaps this article will be helpful and experienced. At least just to get a glimpse of the process outside... Get a fresh perspective.

As a basis for the visual series, I used the assembly process of model B MP T-15 on TGP (heavy tracked platform) Armata by Panda Hobby in 1/35 scale.

ASSEMBLING THE MODEL

The first stage is the actual assembly of the model.

It is necessary to assemble the model as completely as possible. If there is a question about the painting of rollers and caterpillar tracks, you can do this at the initial stage. But you don't need to be too zealous. There is no need to paint elements that will not be visible after assembly. For example, the space under the side skirts at the top of the tracks.

PRESHADING

Pre-shading is the process of creating a dark color base for the subsequent embedding of flowers. First of all, the seams, joining elements are painted. And in general, all dark places. Those. those places that subsequently create a color difference and provide visual volume.

After all, if you paint the model without preliminary preparation, only using the base color, the model will remain flat.

Pre-shading can be performed both as priming, i.e. as a preparation of plastic in further painting work. For example, using colored acrylic primer. So it is separately. On plastic, or on the ground applied over the entire surface of the model.

COLOR MODULATION

Today, the actual coloring process has moved from a simple application of colors to the plane of a full-fledged artistic work. Games with flowers. Creation of a large number of shades that create visual volume and beauty.

The main method that modelers use now is called color modulation, or color modulation. Its meaning is that a certain sequence of colors is applied from dark to light.

This can be either mixing different colors for each subsequent layer, or using special sets of color modulation.

In this case, we have the application of the base translucent layer. Those. the layer does not overlap the dark areas created on the previous layer. Namely, it slightly covers them. This is how the first visual volume is created.

Then, by adding a brighter tone to the base color, a second, light translucent layer is applied. In principle, the choice of the number of modulation layers is only a decision of the master. If necessary, you can make at least 10 such highlights.

But at the initial stage, when you are just trying this method, it is quite acceptable to limit yourself to 2 layers.

It should be noted right away that a model painted in this way may look unacceptably bright, carnival. But there is no need to be afraid of this. This brightness, under the influence of the superposition of the exploitation effects, will go away, leaving behind a wide gamut of tonal transition.

Color modulation

APPLICATION OF CAMOUFLAGE

After completing all the previous manipulations, you can successfully proceed to the actual application of the camouflage pattern. This is done by creating paint masks. You can use both office plasticine and specially created compositions from AMMO MIG or Plastmaster.

After the boundaries of the camouflage of the first layer are laid out, we either close the non-paintable areas from possible paint ingress. For example, packing bags. Alternatively, paint the first layer gently, with light pressure.

In principle, in the coloring of a camouflage pattern, the principle of color modulation can also be used, successively applying several brightening translucent layers of color.

But here we will not complicate our work.

And just paint the camouflage layer 1 color. It is only desirable to make it translucent. In order to create shadow zones, change the visual weight and volume of the model.

After applying the 1st camouflage color, we perform the entire sequence of actions again. But already in order to apply the second color.

Camouflage application

APPLICATION OF SERVICE TRACKS

The model is painted. But consider that only the first half of the work is done. The second part is the process of applying traces of exploitation. Or simple weathering (from the English weathering).

In general, this is a topic for several dissertations at least. And in one article it makes no sense even to try to consider all the elements of this very exciting process. Better to grab The Weathering magazine set by Miguel Jimenez and see what it is.

But since we started talking about creating a model at a basic level using this particular model as an example, it is still worth describing at least simple elements of actions.

After painting, the model is closed with satin (semi-matt) varnish. If it’s completely pinned down, then it can be matte. But certainly not glossy.

This will protect the acrylic paint from the effects of enamel liquids used for weathering. If you do not apply varnish, then the aggressive enamel base will simply gobble up the acrylic.

In this case, the first stage of weathering was the sand-tone airbrush. More in places where dust and sand can accumulate. Less "in terms of area".

Then drips of dirt are applied to vertical surfaces. These are, first of all, side screens.

As the drips of dirt dry, you should start applying splash marks. Here we are using a brush and an airbrush.

If you have pigments at hand, you can walk with them.

Weathering in 3 stages

RESULT

For the first time, all these ritual actions are enough to dance with tambourines.

You don't need to bother with each stage separately. And execute the simplest sequence, get the first result. This will allow you to at least understand what it is.

AND MAKE A READY MODEL.

This I think is the most important. Bringing the model to the finished result. You can forever get bogged down in the wilds of some stage of work, never reaching the end.

The task of every modeler is the evolutionary path of development. Those. it is necessary to gradually, step by step try something ONE new. Improve understanding of some ONE moment.

Final result

And so, over and over again, gradually your models will acquire new qualities. And your skill will reach new frontiers, allowing you to do better and better every time.

That's it for today!

Good luck to you!

And wonderful models!

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This section describes the technology for solving the problem, in the form of representing the sequence of solving the problem by specific procedures, actions, techniques in the selected software environment. Technology takes the form of instruction.

Painting the model from scratch

+ modulation

OOO "Our City RU", Tyumen

Greetings to dear colleagues! Starting this topic, in principle, I know what I would like to show you. I took a model from Zvezda for experiments, set # 3535, a T-34/76 tank of the 1942 model. Collected it without any tricks, with this good old word "out of the box", that is, completely rested. The goal was not to make a replica tank (it is intended for a gift), even the tracks left these terrible rubber bands, what you see, after painting, they will still be pulled up to the rollers. Well, shoot me, I don't know and I don't understand how someone paints this together with the assembled tank. So, the tracks will still be painted separately. Oh, yes, all the same I hate drilled barrels and "glushakov", I drilled them. I also made one handle on the transmission hatch. Something all the same glanced lazily at the schemes of such tanks. On that, my finishing touches and ended. By color: I will paint, as expected, you can even call the fashionable word "preshading", and color MODULATION (color volume). How not to call it, the model should already look three-dimensional with preliminary pokars and this is correct. Since the following damage and washes will not hide the main volume, but will only improve the visible.

Preshading- a painting method that allows you to get rid of the general uniformity of the paint, add color nuances and give expressiveness and realism to the color of the model.

Dark (black, black-brown, etc.) paint is applied to the primed model with an airbrush along the joining lines, panel joints, hatches, etc., then in the process of painting in camouflage colors, the dark bottom layer peeps through the primary colors and creates an effect dissimilar coverage. Some places (jointing, panels) are darker, others (between seams and joints, inside the perimeter of jointing panels) are lighter.

The main condition is that the layer of paint with camouflage on top of the dark pre-shading should be as thin as possible and not too covering, otherwise the lower dark layer will be completely painted over and the effect of a heterogeneous surface will disappear. The technology manifests itself best of all when painting with acrylic paints, since they are more translucent than enamels and nitro.

Some modelers believe that using strong pre-shading spoils the model (it looks "checkered"), preferring technically more complex post-shading, with active use of filters.

The barrel was taken from the "Drgonovskaya" model.

I chose these paints for painting the model, the star is acrylic:

The first step, the primer, is usually made dark, I took a mixture of acrylic paints for it (it seems Tamiya). Any dark shade, greenish, brownish, is suitable here, the main thing is that black should be 60-80%. The model is completely blown out from top to bottom. The only thing is that the caterpillars are painted separately, also with a mixture of brown paints, I always paint the caterpillars like this, and never use black or silver. The ridges of the current are painted with dull silver at the caterpillars.

I compared paints with the same characteristics, "Akan" and "Star" - the result:

I had to lighten the star a little, and this is necessary.

Mixed paints, the star is a thick paint, you need to dilute to a liquid state, used alcohol and water.

You can compare it with the dark first layer in the picture.

I applied the paint of the main color at a right angle, here it is just necessary not to fill in the corners, this is how I painted the rollers:

As for the filling, I marked the places of the lateral blowing with an arrow, i.e., the paint stream only glided over the surface, due to the fact that acrylic paint is more transparent than enamel, a shade of darkening is clearly noticeable. I also applied the "vertical blowing effect" on the sides, in places where there may be blackouts, these are air intakes, etc. Places under the fenders can be ignored altogether, of course, if you paint with rollers. The bottom does not need to be painted.

On the third layer, I used paints:

Before proceeding to the next layer, you need to think about where exactly you need to apply the lightening. Here the rule is important: the higher the detail on the tank, the brighter it should be, the artistic look, light and shadow come into force. It is necessary to remember the horizontal planes should be lighter than the lateral ones. Selection of corners, if you look at the model, it should be three-dimensional. You simply cannot do without the use of masks, it is very important to accurately apply the adhesive tape to the corners.

the rollers need to be blown in only in one direction, lateral upward. And only the central part.

You can continue, lightening the body, I continue.

It will look very interesting if you apply a slightly different shade, which I did:

In my opinion, at the corners, you just need to make it even lighter, to the brightening green paint I added white, more ...

By the way, another tone of paint needs to be muted a little, with a light green tint

Completed in three stages, the corpus looks something like this:

The tower is also repaired before the edges are lightened, decals are stuck, adhesive tape must be glued carefully - the decals can be torn off, and this is what happened to me with the inscription "For Stalin". After the decals, you can lighten.

This is a tank ready in three stages.

He continued the work from the tower - this is the fourth and last stage before the filter.

Now it looks something like this:

Let's continue, the model was covered with enamel varnish from Tamiya.

They also turned out to be lightened and rain streaks ...

I diluted the oil paint with refined white spirit (low-odor), bought it at an art store.

... I squeezed the paint onto a palette (artistic), used brush number 2, with a tongue type (semicircular end at the pile), when applying oil paint, applied the paint as follows: white areas in light areas, beige or yellow areas of medium tone, brown or dark areas ... The next step, dipping a brush in a solvent, poured a stain of paint into the recess of the palette - starting from the sides, carefully, slowly, I smear downward. Vertical planes are made from top to bottom ...

... I haven’t done any horizontal lines yet, here I think it will be enough just to slightly brighten the surface, and there is no need to indicate directions.

I applied the washes at once, and in some places brown and black, the MIG wash was diluted with a thinner from the same MIG. Without it, nothing happens.

It seems like I did a wash, and this is what happened.

Today killed 6 hours for chips, used oily tempera, primary colors, sienna and burnt umber. Brush number 2.

And a couple of shots taken in daylight:

The treacherous shine simply upsets me in places, well, I don't know, maybe the lower parts will have to be processed with pigments, but it's time to finish the caterpillars. From the last work, the hairs were just terribly enraged, I just don't know where they came from, it seems to dry in a box.

I will continue little by little, caterpillars. I blew them out with a mixture of Tamiya paints, which I don’t even remember, this mixture has been stirred in my bottle for a long time, the main thing is that I have determined for myself that I will never paint the caterpillars in silver and black. The color chose a medium between dusty gray and brownish shades.

For toning, I chose the following pigments from the moment.

I mixed the selected pigments and applied to the tracks with a brush ...

... the pigment fixed with MIG thinner for washes, it dried up, it turned out like this, after that, with a bristle brush, smeared the pigment in the direction of the caterpillars themselves.

By the way, after drawing a pencil, an interesting texture was drawn on the tracks, I liked it.

How I wanted to tighten the tracks, it seems to have worked, if it hadn't worked out, I wouldn't have posted it.

The essence is simple, in the ridges or whatever they are called, I drilled a wire in four places and twisted this wire between the two rollers, the wire itself was hidden between the rollers. That’s all the only thing that I really didn’t like so much the fastening of the vinyl track links of the star is just awful, but I couldn’t solder them better, and I don’t care.

It seems to have finished the model, this is what happened:

Material taken from the forum in Tyumen.

OOO "Our City RU", Tyumen

30.06.2016

Painting models with an airbrush can be both auxiliary in the form of base blowing, and detailing without using a brush. It is also possible to apply primer and varnish without excessive dust and dirt with an "air brush", this frees from smudges and irregularities of paint application, overspending of material, and also makes the work much thinner and easier. Perhaps the main advantage of airbrushing is the creation of smooth color transitions.

If an advanced modeler goes further and does not stop at the level of blowing out the base with an airbrush, all chiaroscuro, highlights, dots and small details can be drawn with an airbrush. However, the accuracy of the instrument in this case should be higher. As well as the skillfulness of the author.

Preparing the model for painting

As with any work with plastic or metal, the surface must first be prepared before painting:

matting - the formation of adhesion due to the application of the smallest sanding with abrasives with a grain value of 1500 or 2000;
degreasing - before applying the pattern, it is required to degrease the surface using a universalanti-silicone cleaner and special tissue for degreasing since touching the surface with your hands or other ways of getting fat on it;
priming - applied after the surface acquires an even matte shade without irregularities, possibly even in several layers.

Airbrushing Models - Base Application

The base is applied over the primer in repetitive strokes in layers with a thin spray. That is, you need to press the trigger of the airbrush down with each wave of your hand, opening the way for the air flow and pressing the air valve, and then pulling the lever towards you, giving out the paint.

If you just press the trigger down and back once and drive back and forth near the surface, the paint will fall down with air bubbles and bumps, forming a "shagreen". Therefore, when applying the base layer, you should not rush, it is better to work thinly and in layers. You can immediately place accents in light and shade, based on the logic of where the light comes from, where the tone will be denser and darker.

Those areas that need to be painted in a different color and protected from possible dusting can be covered with masking tape or very thin vinyl contour tape.

Features of working with acrylic paints

When painting models with an airbrush, the quality of the paint, its hiding power, dispersion and other properties matter. Among the paints for modeling, enamels and paints on a water-acrylic basis stand out. Enamels have a number of advantages:

metallics look more realistic;
transparent enamels are able to create a candy effect, like on real cars, if the task requires it;
all enamels lay down and are fixed to the surface better than acrylic.

Painting models with acrylic paints is overwhelming due to the fact that all the advantages of enamel are usually crossed out at home by a rather pungent smell. With a wide palette of rulers, the water-acrylic ruler can cause breeding problems for newcomers to modeling. Especially with a shallow trigger stroke, acrylic particles quickly freeze on the needle and quickly clog the nozzle, so it is better to dilute the paint to the state of "milk". As a thinner, you can use vodka or a proprietary thinner from the manufacturer (airbrush thinner). If, after liquefaction, the paint continues to clog fine nozzles with a diameter of 0.15-0.2 mm, a retarder medium can help.

When choosing the right airbrush, you can rely on the following rule:

0.15-0.3 mm - airbrushing camouflage and other subtleties using the "free" hand method;
0.35-0.5 mm - application of the base coat, priming and varnishing of the model. Because with an airbrush with a narrower nozzle, it is extremely inconvenient to dilute soils and varnishes, which are always thicker in consistency.

The problem of density and possible sticking to the needle is especially relevant when painting models with acrylic paints. And when breeding, they can lose their originally inherent qualities. Also, the soil can be coarse, form a difficult-to-wash film on a thin diameter.

After painting the models with an airbrush and completing work with acrylic rulers, it is imperative to thoroughly rinse the instrument with the same vodka or alcohol, if the case is already running and old particles of dried paint remain, the flushing liquid will help to soak and wash them clean.

If, after the stage of painting the models, the airbrush is clogged, parsing and assembling video to the last bolt will save you from possible damage to spare parts. Although it is better not to bring to a major blockage and blow out the tool immediately after work with alcohol or rinsing.

We paint a tank with an airbrush

It is almost impossible to get a uniformly painted surface of the model with a brush or sponge, the level accurately for such work can go off scale. For a number of paints, it is possible to apply exclusively with an airbrush. Camouflage stripes on the tank are drawn at a slight distance from 1.2 to 1.4 bar. The thinner you need to create a line, the less you need to squeeze the trigger of the airbrush and draw closer to the surface, with a hair thickness you can even remove the protective cap of the needle from the airbrush, making the drawing using the "open" needle method. It is better to hold the airbrush nozzle normal to the surface so that the edges of the camouflage are not created too blurry. When painting a model of a tank with an airbrush, the tool cannot be kept in one place near the surface; it is better to make movements along the contour of the model.

As a rule, the model annotation lists the exact colors with paint numbers for each manufacturer. You can rely on this, choosing the right colors, or simply pick up similar analogs and colorize.

The law of aerial perspective - based on the scaling of the model: rather far-away objects are, as it were, lightened by the thickness of the air, as if they are under a blue filter. We multiply the number of meters through which we observe the model and see it as a whole by the scale. Lighten all the colors by the obtained%.

Washes, special effects, decals and other modeling tricks

You can show additional volume with the help of the correct toning of the model, i.e. emphasizing the relief and surface texture by darkening the recesses and highlighting the highlights of the upper parts. Washes - These are liquid diluted paints with a reduced pigment content, which flow into depressions and cracks. When the wash dries up, remove the excess with a cotton pad. It is important to pay attention to the chemical composition of the remover, which may contain solvents and affect the acrylic painted surface layer.

Dry brush method- Light pigment or slow drying paint is rubbed into the basecoat in the lightest areas. The brush should have a minimum of coloring effect, so it should be wiped dry initially.

Decals- the technique of applying decals, most often used to transfer symbols or attributes in various branches of the military in modeling. The decal may look whitened due to traces of air bubbles accumulating between the decal and the model. Most often this occurs when the model is blown with a matte varnish. Therefore, there is a reason to cover the places reserved for decals separately with a glossy varnish. General leveling can be done by blowing out the surface with a final coat of matt varnish.

Dirt and drip effects

The tank, being part of military equipment, is subject to the effect of corrosion, is constantly in mud and oil leaks. Over time, the effect of "weathering" of the paint from the surface occurs.

Painting a model of a tank with an airbrush in stages:

covering the tank model with the main color;
highlighting the most rubbing surfaces of the model with paint several tones lighter than the base one;
in life, after a short period of operation, a dark film of dirt and smudges forms on the tank's parts around the most prominent points, which accumulates in all the recesses of the model. It is necessary to realistically reproduce these moments, which will help the black wash. Also, with the help of it, it will be possible to level out dark and light transitions. The black wash highlights the small details of the tank - welds, bolts and rivets, etc.;
glossing the surface - the gloss makes the protruding parts even more protruding and makes the surface look like painted steel instead of plastic. You can add glossy varnish to the mixture to the paint, or blow it over the paint;
The lower part of the tank hull can be covered with a simulated earth effect.

Weathering -an effect that gives any military equipment more realism. When done correctly, it helps to hide the "kosyachki" coloring, with inept handling or overdoing it spoils the appearance of the work and negates the result of the first stages of coloring. Weathering also focuses on small details of the model. To make the weathering realistic, the modeler must reproduce for himself the conditions in which the equipment was located (climatic and natural corrosion, historical and military).

Weathering stages:

imitation of scratches and chips on the surface -manual application of wear with a piece of sprue with a slight bend at the tip. Then paint is applied to all the edges and corners of the models, preferably oil-based. The number and depth of scratches and chips depends on the background of the tank model, based on the historical context or a personally invented topic. However, the fenders should be much more scratched than the top of the hull and turret of the tank. For greater realism, in addition to the edges, you can scratch lightly, like a continuation of the tracks, and the surface next to it. It is better not to forget about the scratches applied along the hull, fenders, which appear from the passage of the tank over obstacles and debris. At the end of this stage, after thorough drying, you can go over the center of the scratches and cracks with a black slate pencil, however selectively, and not over all.
imitation of dirt and dust -many modelers usually just take filtered earth, moss and water-acrylic paints with earth tones, mix in PVA and water and apply to the model. This is followed by a day-long drying. It is most logical to apply dirt to the bottom of the hull and track elements. The main thing is not to overdo it.
wash -the wash applied in several layers helps to achieve a more realistic effect. The model is covered with a wash-off brush with a thin layer. The movements of the brush go in one direction: on vertical and oblique - from top to bottom, on horizontal - from the center to the edge. After applying the first layer of wash, you can take a wider brush and work on flat surfaces, and not just flow it into depressions and depressions. After a short drying time of 10-15 minutes, you can remove excess wash with a brush. You can also finish this step with a third layer on the bottom of the case.
ov haze e- brush bristles with a value of No. 00 trimmed, then light earth-colored paint is applied to it, then wiped off with a napkin. And using the "dry" brush method, go over the lower part of the body.
fresh dirt and track installation.

It's time to master the technique of painting prefabricated models. To begin with, we recommend taking a simple, inexpensive model with a low level of complexity, in which there are few small details. And for painting we will use acrylic paints as they are easy to use (diluted with water or alcohol, have almost no harmful smell). After assembling your chosen model, you need to proceed to the next step.

Preparation for painting

In addition to the airbrush, we will need:

various brushes;
acrylic paints (as they are convenient for example);
several clean glass jars;
syringe;
pipette;
napkins.

Before painting the surface of the model, it must be properly prepared. This is to keep the paint stronger. The easiest way is to wash the model in soapy water and dry.

Priming scale models

Due to the fact that we have chosen acrylic paints for painting, we need to prime the model. The Tamiya Surface Primer L (Gray) is perfect for these purposes. In order to use it, you need to shake the can for 7-10 minutes, take it to the side of the model and spray it at a distance of 20 centimeters, let it dry for 30 minutes.

Preparation before painting

Before applying paint to the surface of the model, it must be thinned to the consistency of milk. There is also paint that is already prepared for airbrushing. After painting, you need to tune the compressor. As a rule, experienced modelers recommend setting the pressure to 1.5-2.0 atmospheres. Pour paint into the reservoir and close the lid. Do some test sprays on paper. Make sure the paint runs evenly, without dripping or splashing.

Painting a scale model

Position the model so that it is convenient and accessible for you. A turntable is very suitable for this. If not, then use a newspaper in several layers. Sometimes it is convenient to hold the model in your hand when painting. Yes it is possible, but it is better to use a rubber glove for this. Firstly, you will not leave greasy stains from your fingers, and secondly, you will not touch with your fingers where you have already painted it and it is more convenient to hold it in a glove (it does not slip).

After positioning the scale model, take your pre-configured airbrush and apply a coat of paint evenly. The airbrush should be held perpendicular to the surface and constantly moved. First you open the air valve, then gradually add the paint a little. If suddenly you need to temporarily suspend the painting, then turn off the paint supply - the air supply remains open. Subsequent layers of paint are applied only after the previous layer has completely dried.

Keep in mind, this article does not describe the various ways of toning the model, but only describes the method of basic painting in one tone.

Finish painting

After you have finished painting the model, you must drain the remaining paint to the storage location and ALWAYS rinse the airbrush. An unwashed airbrush is a common cause of its breakdown!

Safety engineering

Acrylic paints are the safest in comparison with other types. But there is another fact - sometimes alcohol, ammonia and other solvents are present in the composition of paints. For this reason, it is recommended to paint the model in a well-ventilated area.

Attention! If you smell paint, then you breathe it in vapors, take protective measures (change or ventilate the room, use a respirator, etc.).

And in conclusion, I would like to say that working with an airbrush requires constant work with it. The more often you do this, the better your models will be painted. You can also find more information on the subject of painting scale models both on our website () and others.

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