Attic stairs: which option to choose and how to install? How to make a staircase to the attic with your own hands How to make a staircase to the attic floor.

If the house initially has an exploited attic room, then the staircase for it is probably provided for by the project. But what if you added the attic floor later? You will definitely need a ladder to the attic. Moreover, if you rely on your own strength, and want to design it yourself, you will need to take into account all the nuances and carefully consider the design so that the staircase is not only comfortable and beautiful, but also as reliable, safe and durable as possible. Today we will discuss how to build mansard stairs with our own hands, and what materials and design options are preferable for such buildings; we will bring to your attention more than a dozen visual drawings and diagrams, as well as demonstrate a video with step-by-step instructions.

Metal and wooden mansard stairs: photo and design

Metal structures are considered to be very reliable and solid. And in the case of staircases, they are also beautiful, since the twisted railings with elements of artistic forging look stylish, rich and exclusive. However, mansard stairs are most often made of wood, and not only because most country houses and dachas are wooden. Do-it-yourself stairs to the attic means that you will cope with this task yourself, and wood is an ideal material for creative work. See how beautiful and unusual a staircase to the attic can be, photos from our gallery clearly demonstrate this.

The options for stairs to the attic are very numerous, you can choose the most modest and easiest to manufacture, or you can decide on a bold and large-scale project. It all depends only on your desire and skill. Below we will consider what shape and structure a staircase to the attic can have, where it can be positioned, and how to make it correctly.

Types of stairs to the attic: spiral, folding, attic, outdoor

According to the method of location relative to the house, the attic staircase can be internal and external. At the stage of construction and repair of the attic floor, you need to somehow climb to the place of work, and in this case, a staircase to the attic from the street would be a good option. However, such a structure does not have to be temporary. Many homes maintain a separate attic entrance, and for good reason.

The exterior layout of the attic staircase has both advantages and disadvantages. Thieves and other intruders often try to enter the house through such an entrance, especially if the doors are not very reliable. Therefore, if you put safety first, it is better to equip the entrance to the attic inside the house, for example from the hallway, living room or from the veranda.

Many country houses and summer cottages cannot boast of a large area of ​​living quarters, so the owners, of course, want the stairs to the attic not to clutter up the space. It should be a small, compact structure with a minimum of parts, but still comfortable enough so that climbing up does not become a dangerous adventure for the residents of the house. This is especially important if there are elderly people and small children in the family.

For small houses, the best option is a compact folding ladder to the attic, which you can easily make yourself from wood and a few simple metal elements.

However, this is not the only option for a compact design. Spiral staircases also do not take up much space, but they can look very interesting and beautiful. Sometimes this solution becomes a real highlight of the entire interior. The spiral railings can evoke associations with a nautical theme, or lead your imagination towards medieval castles. You will learn a lot of interesting things about the beautiful design of the attic and the selection of the style for the future interior here.

Not only folding and screw designs can be small in size. An ordinary one- or two-flight staircase to the attic can also be very compact, if you do not overload it with unnecessary elements, and make it narrow, within 90-100 cm.

How to make a staircase to the attic: width and dimensions, calculation and installation

Let's go directly to the manufacture of mansard stairs. As we said above, a tree is best suited for an independent creative project. It should be high-quality hardwood, because it will have to withstand a serious load, moreover, many times. It is important not only to choose the right material for future construction, but also to prepare it correctly.

The device of a staircase to the attic begins with the choice of a project. The easiest to manufacture and install are marching structures from one or two spans. If there is only one flight, then such a staircase can hardly be called compact, but under it it is very easy to organize a utility room, a pantry or a mini-dressing room. And if there are two spans, then a small area is made between them, or several winders are installed. The design is based on either stringers, or two supporting bowstrings, or bolts, that is, special bolts screwed into the wall.

How to build an attic staircase with the least labor costs? Of course, using kosour, as in the picture above. But you still have to decide how to arrange it. The most commonly used positioning methods are 90 degrees and 180 degrees.

Any staircase to the attic has standard dimensions, strictly calculated for convenience and safety during use. The width usually varies from 80 to 100 cm, and the width of the step itself is from 20 to 32 cm, although it is strongly recommended not to reduce this dimension. It is desirable that the average human foot stands on a step completely, that is, 30 cm will be optimal. The exception is the winders. At their narrowest part, they can be only 10 cm wide. The height of the riser, that is, the vertical part dividing the steps, should be 15-19 cm. There are special formulas for choosing the optimal ratio between the width of the tread and the height of the riser.

There are three formulas that determine the ratio of the riser height (j) to the tread width (e): convenience formula, step formula and safety formula. The most important of these is the step formula. In this case, the ratio between the two values ​​(j / e), which is satisfactory for all three formulas, is 17/29. The formula for convenience looks like this: e - j = 12 cm; steps: 2j + e = 62 (60-64) cm; safety: e + j = 46 cm.

Then you need to choose the slope of the future stairs. Comfortable ascent and descent directly depends on this value. It is worthwhile to carefully consider the choice of the slope so that it is convenient for all members of your family to go up and down.

Construction work begins with cutting out a hatch, if the attic floor is just built on, and there was no exit to it before. The dimensions of the sides of the hatch are determined by the width of the stairs, and its shape should be square. The easiest way to cut it is with a circular saw. Then the stringers are cut out, milled and sanded. The wall stringer is mounted first, and the second is installed at the required distance strictly parallel. For accuracy, use the building level. Then the risers are attached, and last but not least, the steps and handrails. The whole construction process is clearly demonstrated in this video:

The owners of country houses, especially those suffering from insufficient space on the site, often try to expand the living area of ​​their estates by all available means. One of the best and most popular solutions is the arrangement of a residential attic in the attic.

The process of arranging an attic space into a full-fledged residential attic includes many stages, including the creation of an effective and subsequent high-quality finish. But no less important is the organization of a convenient, reliable and safe interfloor passage in everyday operation. This article will describe and show in detail how a staircase to the attic is erected in stages with your own hands.

Preliminary calculations of the mansard flight staircase

The attic staircase can be located inside or outside the house. Of course, for all-season use, the internal staircase looks much more advantageous. It is this option that will be considered further.

The staircase itself can be marching, running or. If you reason in terms of ensuring maximum safety, then it is preferable to make a choice in favor of the marching option.

But the mid-flight stairs have one pronounced drawback - the large dimensions in the projection onto the floor plane. And a common occurrence is when the area of ​​the room in which the stairs should be located is not so large that one can stop at the simplest, one-marching version. The fact is that if there is not enough space, such a staircase will turn out to be very steep and extremely inconvenient, or even dangerous for everyday use, especially for children or family members who have some kind of disabilities for health reasons.

The limiting angle of steepness for such stairs is considered to be 45 degrees. But even this seems a bit too much in terms of comfort. lifting and descent. So it is better to stop at an indicator of up to 40 degrees.

So, one-marching option is obtained very infrequently. And in order to achieve the desired steepness angle, you have to split the ascent into two marches (sometimes even more is practiced). A transitional horizontal platform is made between the flights (it is easier to install and safer in everyday use). Or the marches are connected by a curved section with winder steps (it looks nice, but more difficult in calculations and installation, and not so safe in operation).

Further, we will only talk about a marching staircase with a platform, as a simpler and safer option. And who is interested in the winder staircase - he needs to go to another page.

TO How a winder staircase is designed and installed

Drafting a staircase with a run-in section, carrying out assembly work - all this has a number of important features. Read more about - read in a special publication of our portal.

So, the construction of a marching staircase should be preceded by some calculations.

A. It is necessary to calculate how much area of ​​the room the horizontal projection of the planned staircase with a certain angle of inclination will occupy. Or, conversely, what steepness the march will turn out to be, built on a specific section allotted to it. If one march, for these reasons, is impossible (as often happens), then the staircase has to be divided into two flights, and the parameters mentioned for each of them have to be calculated, taking into account the location and height of the transition platform. In this case, a prerequisite is the same slope angle for both flights.

Prices for wooden stairs

wooden ladder

The dependence of the steepness of the march and the magnitude of its horizontal projection onto the floor plane will make it possible to evaluate the calculator located below.

Most often, in order to climb to the attic of a private house, they resort to using retractable or ladders, but this is not always convenient. And the question arises as to how safe it is to climb such a structure. But if you wish, you can make a staircase to the attic with your own hands, spending just a few days. This option will be not only convenient, but also cheaper than purchased in a store.

Ladder location

In order to find the most convenient place, you need to consider the following factors:

• The best option for placing the entrance is separately in a special room that resembles a small vestibule. This option will allow you to arrange a staircase with convenient dimensions and provide thermal insulation. When the door is closed, the possibility of cold air entering the house from the attic is excluded.
• If it is not possible to organize a vestibule, then the placement of the stairs is best done at the far wall of the room. This will allow you to move around the room smoothly and save space.
• A good option would be to organize a hatch before entering the attic. This option, as with the vestibule, will prevent heat loss.
• The best option in most cases is a single-flight staircase. But in conditions of insufficient space, you can resort to a screw or two-march device.

If the room under the roof is not planned for frequent use, then you can limit yourself to rising to the ceiling and, if necessary, falling down. In addition, you can also make such a ladder yourself.

Payment

When calculating the stairs, the following requirements are taken into account:

• The width of the stairs should be between 80-100 centimeters.
• Handrails and railings are installed at a height of 90 centimeters. In this case, you should not neglect the installation of handrails. Even if the staircase is between two walls, handrails can make climbing easier and safer.
• The most convenient ascent angle is determined in the range of 30-45 degrees.

At the same time, for an angle of inclination of 33-37 degrees, the riser should be 16 cm, for 38-42 degrees - 18 cm, at 45 degrees - 20 cm.

• The optimal dimensions of the riser are 12-20 centimeters, the tread is 30-38 centimeters. It should be remembered that the steeper the rise, the higher the steps.
• The material chosen for manufacturing must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
• There should be at least 2 meters from the step to the ceiling, so as not to kill the head when climbing.

To correctly choose the ratio of the riser height (j) to the tread width (e), three formulas are used: convenience, step and safety. In this case, the step formula is the most important. It is important to take into account the correct ratio between the two values ​​(j / e), which is satisfactory for all three formulas - 17/29. The formula for convenience looks like this: e - j = 12 cm; steps: 2j + e = 62 (60-64) cm; safety: e + j = 46 cm

Material selection

It can be made of wood or metal, but welding can be difficult and requires certain skills to make it yourself. Therefore, consider wooden stairs.

Conifers are suitable:

• Larch and cedar... These breeds have a pleasant appearance, are easily processed and are almost not subject to decay. The downside will be the cost of such wood.
• Spruce... The material is good in terms of technical characteristics. Claims can only be about appearance. There are often knots on it.
• Pine... The cost will be cheaper than the others. In addition, the material is easy to process.

Hardwoods are used:

• Oak... It has the best technical characteristics. Has an excellent appearance.
• Beech and ash... They have average characteristics.
• Birch... The material is more economical in cost. In terms of characteristics, it is not inferior to beech. Handles well.

Any type of wood must be well dried. Before purchasing the material, you must make sure that there are no cracks and other defects, including traces of damage by woodworms.

Manufacturing

For a mansard staircase, the option on stringers or bowstrings is best suited... This will reduce labor costs, unlike other types of stairs.

Materials and tools:

• one or two beams for fastening steps (depending on the type of stairs);
• circular saw or hacksaw;
• edged boards for steps 25 mm thick;
• building level;
• screws and glue for fastening steps;
• hammer, screwdriver.

The stringer and the bowstring are a supporting beam on which the steps are attached. They differ in the way of this attachment. It is cut out along the top of the comb, into which the steps are installed. On the bowstring, grooves are used for these purposes, which are cut from the inside of the beams. Solid beams with a cross section of 5x25-30 centimeters are suitable as a material. In this case, you need to know that with a staircase width of more than 120 centimeters, two kosour are used.

The workpiece is planed along its entire length to remove chips and chips... Treads (the horizontal part of the steps) are cut out on the kosoura. This is done with a circular saw or a hacksaw. If you decide to make a ladder on bowstrings, then grooves are cut out in the beams, the size of which corresponds to the side section of the step. Next, the ends of the beam are cut so that they can be installed on the base.

We cut the risers (the vertical part of the step) and treads according to the dimensions from the edged board. To reduce the risk of injury, you can round the corners of the steps.

When the main parts are ready, we start assembling. First, we fix the supporting beams. To do this, we attach its lower part to the rough floor bars. In this case, it may be necessary to dismantle part of the floor covering. To avoid this, equip a small lifting platform. Fastening is made rigidly, fixing the elements with a saw. When installing a ladder, it is important to ensure that the cutouts in the beams are flush. In this case, the cutouts on the stringers can be adjusted using wedges.

When you are convinced that the beams are installed evenly, proceed to. We start with the tread. When mounted on a kosour, the boards are laid, leveled and fastened with screws "in the pot". The screw heads must "sink" in the wood, or they must be closed with a wooden plug. After that, it is cut flush with the plane of the step.

If the installation is carried out on a bowstring, then the treads are inserted into the grooves, having previously greased with glue. Self-tapping screws can be used to provide additional fastening. They are screwed in from the side.

Fastening the risers is not necessary, but if you want to make a full-fledged staircase, then you need to mount them from the inside. To do this, use special brackets or wooden wedges.

After the assembly of the stairs is completed, we proceed to the fastening of the railing, if necessary.... Their installation begins with the installation of a fence around the entrance to the attic floor. Next, we fasten the support pillars. We install one at the bottom, the other at the top. After that, we lay and fix the railing. They are supported with balusters mounted on the steps. Provided that the staircase is located against the wall, you can attach the railings to it.

Finally, it was time for the finishing touches. To do this, you should start with a rough grinding of the finished structure. Then, with the help of a putty, they fill in all the cracks and irregularities. There will be few of them, if you do not make a mistake in size. When the filler is dry, proceed to fine sanding. Further cleaning - it is necessary to remove shavings and wood dust with a vacuum cleaner. The next stage is painting with varnish or interior paint. You can also prime all the elements of the staircase, giving it time to dry.

We also came to an end. It remains only to build a staircase to the attic floor. But which one to choose? How to position, inside or outside? And how many marches should a staircase to the attic have? In this article, we will try to answer all these questions, and also tell you how to build a staircase with your own hands.

Structures and installation locations of stairs to the attic floor

Ladders for attic floors differ in the type of structure and the place of their installation. And in your choice you need to be based on the needs of the tenants, the area and the technical characteristics of the entire building. Next, we will look at the most popular designs used for attic floors.

Types of construction of stairs to the attic floor

The screw is the smallest in terms of the area it occupies than all those structures that will be described below. If you have only 1-1.5 m 2 at your disposal, then the screw structure will be your salvation.

Attic staircase designs: from the simplest to the fanciful

The picture below shows a classic one-march design. It is easier to calculate and mount than the others, but, as you can see, it takes up a lot of space. This can be corrected by increasing the angle of inclination of the march, but in this case it will not be very convenient to climb to the floor.

It is easiest to install a single-flight staircase to the attic with your own hands

Classic two-march systems are straight, L- and U-shaped. The first type for attics in private houses is rarely used, but the other two are very common.

If there is not very much space in the house, then attic stairs in two marches will do

Above you can see the layout of the marches, and in the photo below you can see examples of ready-made structures. In the space under the stairs to the attic floor, you can either install a heating system, as in the photo, or make a storage room.

Mansard stairs: photos of classic two-flight structures

It is also worth mentioning the method of connecting marches. The most familiar option for us is turning platforms. However, instead of platforms, so-called winders are often made; you can see them on the left side of the photo.

Arrangement of stairs to the attic: run-in steps and a reversal platform

Another type of attic staircase is a folding, attic staircase. Such structures are used more often if there is an attic on the second floor. When there is no need for a ladder, it can be completely retracted into a hatch in the attic ceiling.

Foldable, compact attic stairs

Installation of stairs to the attic floor inside and outside the building

Walking up to the floor from the street is a good option if two families live in the same house. Both floors are isolated from each other, no one bothers anyone: we get two entrances to the house, an internal one and a street one.

External staircase to the attic: separate entrance to the second floor

The staircase to the attic from the veranda also makes it possible to use different entrances to the living quarters, but there is no need to go outside, as happens when the staircase is external.

In the photo there is a staircase to the attic floor located on the veranda

Installing a staircase inside the home is a more common option. If the building is used on a permanent basis by one family, then, of course, it will be logical to choose just this type of installation.

Internal staircase to the attic. Photo of the simplest structure for climbing to the second floor

How to make and install a staircase to the attic floor

Ladders can be made from almost any material, but wooden ones are perhaps the most common. They will suit almost anyone, especially considering how popular it is today. Let's see how this is done using the example of a straight one-flight staircase.

We calculate the parameters of the staircase

• Floor height. We measure the difference between the levels of the final floor of the first floor and the attic. Let it be 250 cm.
• Number and height of steps. We divide the lifting height by the recommended riser height - 18 cm. This means: 250: 18 = 13.88 pieces. Fractional numbers should not be, we round up to 14 pieces. Now we calculate the height of the steps: 250: 14 = 17.85 cm. We got 14 steps with 17.85 cm risers.
• The total length of the march. We take the width of the steps 27 cm. We consider: 14x27 = 405 cm.

Layout of the stairs to the attic. Settlement start

Based on these calculations, we make a drawing and put down all the dimensions. Now we measure the distance from one attic floor to another, in the drawing we mark the edge of the second floor. From it we measure the distance to the steps of the staircase, according to GOST it should not be less than 185 cm. If this distance is less, we reduce the length of the flight by reducing the number of steps and giving them a greater height.

Table for determining the optimal step sizes

Kosoura and tread

For kosour we need the following formula: height 2 + length 2 √22.65 = kosour length. That is: 4.05 2 + 2.50 2 √22.65 = 4.75m. The width of the stringers is calculated so that it is twice the size of the risers. In our case, this is 17.85x2 = 35.7cm. More is possible, less is not possible.

The marking of the slots on the stringers is done using a carpenter's corner. If it is not there, we make a homemade one, from plywood and a couple of slats. We number the steps. We purchase boards for stringers with a margin, with the required length of 4.75m we take 5m.

Marking of stringers: a) the height of the risers; b) the width of the steps

We carried out all calculations without taking into account the step boards. We measure their thickness, and cut the lower part of the stringers exactly so. Now about the width of the treads. To their width, we must take into account the thickness of the riser. According to the diagram below, this is: b + d = e, where b is the width of the tread, d is the thickness of the riser. This is a calculation without overhang, if you plan to do it, then add its width to "b". The diagram shows both options, with and without overhang.

Diy mansard stairs: tread width with and without overhang

Platform beam

Its width is equal to the width of the future staircase (90cm) + two thicknesses of the stringer + 14 cm at the edges. The last digit changes depending on the parameters of the stairs. So: 90 + 10 + 14 = 114cm is our platform beam. You will need 2 of them in total.

In the figure, you can see the ways of attaching the stringers to the platform beam: with and without a saw cut. You can choose the method that suits you best. On the right side of the figure, there are two options for the execution of the frieze step: ordinary and pushed into the platform. We cut out the required number of steps, then sand all the details.

How to make a staircase to the attic: fastening the stringers to the landing beam and the device of the frieze step

Stepping back 7 cm from the edges, we make saws in the platform beams equal in width to the thickness of the stringers. In the latter, we also make cuts, if the method of fastening you have chosen implies them. Now we attach the platform beams to the floors. This can be done using anchors. The figure shows the fixing methods for the upper and lower floors.

Construction of stairs to the attic: fastening the platform beams to the first and second floors

Assembling the stairs to the attic floor

We put the stringers in the grooves, fasten them to the platform beams with pins or pins. We fasten the stringer adjacent to the wall with anchors, if the material of the wall itself allows. Now we attach the steps and risers. You can choose any method from the ones shown in the picture.

Methods of fastening steps and risers

Now it remains to fix the balusters. At the top, we do it with screws, obliquely, at the bottom with the help of dowels. You can choose any shape of balusters and steps that fit the design of the attic.

When building a house, an equally important stage is the arrangement of an attic room to increase living space. True, you first have to build a staircase that will help connect two adjacent floors. And you can do it yourself.

Choosing the location of the future structure

Before doing the attic with your own hands, you need to find the best place for it. Usually, the entrance to the attic is made from the hall of the building or the living room, but if the room is open, then it can be done from the street.

A do-it-yourself mansard room is considered an excellent option for country estates, as it allows you to save space inside the house. Another similar design is suitable for those who plan to live permanently in the attic. Made of wood or metal with luxurious lace railings, the stairs will not spoil the exterior of the house. On the contrary, they will give it a European look.

The only disadvantage of external structures is that they will have to be constantly tinted and treated with anti-corrosion agents. In addition, you will need to be sure to install it on the steps.

An internal staircase to the attic floor, made by hand, is a more common design, since it is more convenient to use it. In addition, in cold weather, you do not need to go up to the attic across the street. Such a structure inside the house can decorate any interior, especially if it has an original and attractive look. The disadvantages of this method of going upstairs can be attributed only to the fact that such a structure can take away a lot of living space.

But the main thing is that the mansard staircase, made with your own hands, meets the following requirements:

• did not take up much of the necessary and useful area;
• when choosing its location, the total floor height was taken into account;
• had a comfortable and safe climb.

Varieties of structures for lifting and lowering to the attic

Mansard staircase (do it yourself), the types of which may differ not only in location, but also in type of construction, has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A folding ladder, as a rule, is made if the attic is rarely used, otherwise it will wear out instantly, constantly requiring expensive maintenance and repair. The main advantage of such a mansard staircase is its simplicity of construction.

Screw structures are usually installed in houses with a limited area. They have low levels of convenience and safety for lifting. On top of that, the spiral staircase should not be installed if old people and children will live in the house, since it is difficult to move along it.

Simple is very popular. Such structures are considered the most durable and reliable, besides, they differ from others in their attractive appearance and high safety.

The choice of material for future construction

It is always necessary to focus on the interior design of the room when buying the material from which the attic staircase will be made with your own hands. The installation instructions will help you quickly assemble and install it. But remember that it is unlikely that a metal or glass structure will fit into a room decorated with clapboard, and a wooden one will hardly fit into a room decorated in a modern style.

Most often, mansard stairs are made of metal or wood. But stainless steel structures are still more popular, since they have a long service life and are perfectly combined with other materials. But wooden stairs are easier to make with your own hands due to the ease of processing.

Another suitable option for the attic would be a concrete staircase. True, it will be difficult and difficult to make it yourself, besides, additional costs for decoration will be needed. However, if the house has a large hall, then such a staircase will fit perfectly. Concrete structures have a long service life, are easy to repair and can handle high loads.

Making a hatch for a staircase

The first step is to mark the attic floor to avoid hitting the beam. In the absence of flooring, it is much easier to do this, but the floor elements are not always available for inspection, because most often during construction, the ceiling of the upper floor is immediately waterproofed and insulated. If they cannot be reached, then a long, thin drill will have to be used to determine the best location. To find out the contour of the future hatch, it is necessary to make several holes in the ceiling. After that, all that remains is to outline the surface.

You will need a circular saw to cut the floor covering. In this case, it is advisable to use discs with carbide teeth, since fasteners often come across on the way. As a result of the work, a through hole should be obtained, it is this that will become the entrance to the attic.

Calculation of the size and number of steps

A mansard staircase, made by hand, is a rational solution that should start with preliminary calculations. For comfortable operation, it is recommended to adhere to the following indicators:

• the width of the step should not exceed 28-30 cm, and the height - 14-16 cm;
• the width of the staircase should be at least 1 meter;
• the size of the winder steps in the narrow part should be about 20 cm.

If you cannot make a calculation yourself, then it is better to contact a design firm for help.

Calculating the angle of inclination

When constructing a mansard staircase, you must adhere to the standards. Therefore, a vertical passage of no more than 2 meters should be made from the floor to the step. This also applies to the distance between the trim of the upper hatch to the attic and the step.

The angle of inclination of the structure depends on the lifting height. For example, a staircase with a slope of less than 35 ° takes up a lot of free space. But according to the design with an inclination of more than 55 °, it will be very difficult to move, since you will have to descend with your back forward. It is better to design a functional element providing vertical connections with a slope of 35-45 °. It turns out that the most comfortable is the mansard staircase made in this way with your own hands.

How to make stringers?

The main details of the staircase are stringers. Planks with sawn cut notches for steps can be used as these load-bearing beams. They should be approximately 50 mm thick and approximately 250 mm wide. Most often, two beams are used, but when more than 120 cm is made, an additional stringer is installed.

First of all, it is necessary to stretch a string along the wall from the ceiling of the attic to the place where the staircase begins. Then, changing the slope of the rope, you should check the number of expected steps and the length of the supporting beam, checking with the calculations performed.

Then you need to measure the angles that have arisen between the flooring and the string, and also between the rope and the ceiling. At the place of fixing the stringer to the ceiling, a protrusion of at least 10 cm should be left in order to fix the structure to the attic covering.

After that, the kosour is fixed to the wall surface and the fastening points of the steps are marked on it. To determine the vertical and horizontal lines for the footprints, a building level should be used. The board must be detached from the wall and grooves made according to the markings. It is necessary to ensure that the cuts are smooth, and the level of the grooves is suitable for the device of the steps. The second stringer is cut in the same way as the first.

Diy mansard staircase: installation

First, the ladder base is mounted on the bar at the bottom. Then the supporting beams are fixed to it, and at the top of the grooves spikes are inserted, pre-lubricated with carpentry glue. The resulting structure is connected with metal corners. To strengthen the mansard staircase, they are used, as a rule, with the help of these fasteners, additionally supporting beams are connected in several places.

Installation of steps

Their installation should be carried out from the bottom tread. You can fix the steps with self-tapping screws. Joints must be treated with wood glue.

When installing the riser from the back of the staircase, the treads are screwed on. After that, the stringers are sewn up to the top, and the side line of the steps should be refined with a board or plywood.

Handrail installation

If the mansard staircase, made with your own hands, has a width of more than 120 cm, then the railing is not needed on it. If desired, it is easy to make them. To do this, vertical racks are bolted to the beams, and then fences are already attached to them. The optimal one is about 85 cm.