Installation of a modern toilet bowl. How to install a toilet in an apartment

Plumbing equipment must be installed in accordance with building codes and regulations. Knowing this, many home craftsmen experience self-doubt, and even real fear.

They turn to service companies for help, which demand decent sums of money for their services. But installing a toilet with your own hands is not at all as difficult as it might seem.

There are several ways to install plumbing, we will analyze each of them in detail.

The way the toilet is installed depends on the type of device and its design features. On sale you can find two main types of equipment, the technology of installation work in each case will be completely different. This:

Floor standing toilets. Installed directly on the floor after finishing work in the room.
Wall-mounted toilet bowls. Installed with special fasteners at a certain height from the floor level. Installation of equipment is carried out before the start of repair work.

The floor-standing toilet is installed directly on the floor covering. This is the most common type of equipment

Mounted plumbing fixtures are installed using special structures-installations, on which the system is fixed.

Floor-standing equipment can be mounted in two ways of fixing to the floor:

internal, rather difficult to perform, but more aesthetic;
external, when fastening is carried out using special technological holes on the base of the device.

In addition, the method of installing a plumbing fixture depends on the way it is connected to the sewer. There are three options:

Horizontal release. The device is connected to the sewer system at exactly right angles.
Vertical release. The sewer socket for connecting the device must be in the floor.
Oblique release. Such equipment is connected to the fan pipe at a certain angle, most often its value is 45 °.

Let's take a closer look at how to install a floor-standing toilet with your own hands.

Connecting the device to the sewer

Various connecting elements can be used to connect plumbing equipment to the sewerage system:

Fan pipe. Shaped product made of semi-porcelain, faience or porcelain. It is quite difficult to install, it is used most often by professional craftsmen.
Plastic pipe. Used when installing equipment located close enough to the sewer pipe.
Eccentric. Plastic piece consisting of two off-center spigots. The special structure of the eccentric allows you to connect the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe, even if the equipment is slightly displaced. The part is available in different sizes.
Corrugation. A flexible plastic device that allows you to connect any type of toilet with a sewer socket. In this case, the location of the riser or pipe, as well as the device itself, can be any. Ideal for self-assembly of equipment.

Consider different ways to connect the toilet to the sewer.

Method # 1: Fan pipe or plastic pipe

Such an attachment assumes that the fittings connect the outlet of the toilet bowl to the sewer socket. Please note that independent work with such elements can be quite difficult, especially if you cannot move the toilet bowl to the riser to the required distance for some reason.

In this case, you will have to use other connecting elements or invite specialists. If the sewer hole is conveniently located and the toilet fits to it, you can do the work yourself.

With the help of plastic pipes, you can make any complex configuration required to connect the toilet. When installing such a system, do not forget about special rubber seals.

When installing a vertical or horizontal connection, it is important to use special rubber seals: cuffs, inserts, etc., which must be included with the connecting elements. The parts provide a reliable and tight connection, however, you can additionally use a sealant for insurance.

We substitute the plumbing fixture to the junction and insert its outlet part into the sewer socket, not forgetting about the seals and sealant.

The toilet can then be fixed to the floor.

If you decide to connect the toilet to the sewer using a drain pipe, you need to remember that the outlet of the equipment and the socket of the drain pipe must fit perfectly together. You will not be able to move the device

Method # 2: Eccentric

When connecting to the sewer with an eccentric, it is not necessary to use a sealant, since the shape of the part provides the necessary tightness. Insert the outlet part of the eccentric collar into the sewer socket. It is important that the diameter of the part is selected correctly.

The eccentric allows, if necessary, to slightly displace the toilet bowl relative to the riser, but this distance is small.

For reliability, you can still coat the junction with silicone sealant. We substitute the toilet and put on the second end of the cuff on its output. The equipment can be anchored to the floor.

Method # 3: corrugation

The simplest of all methods, allowing, if necessary, to connect a riser and a toilet bowl of any type. We wipe the corrugation with a rag. With a wavy strip, generously apply silicone sealant to the ribs of the elastic, which will subsequently be hidden in the sewer pipe.

We carry out the same operation from the opposite edge of the corrugation, processing the area that will be put on the neck of the toilet bowl.

We insert the corrugation into the sewer bell and put on its second end on the equipment outlet. Press the plastic firmly with your fingers, controlling the reliability of the connection.

The easiest way is to connect the toilet to the sewer using a corrugation. The element can be stretched and given the required shape, so any type of equipment can be connected without any problems

Installing the Floor Standing Bowl

Depending on the method of attaching the toilet to the floor, the connection of the device to the sewer can be carried out up to this point or directly during this operation. The installation of the toilet begins with the installation of the bowl, which can be done in different ways.

Method # 1: Installation on dowels

First, we prepare the base on which the equipment will be installed. The floor should be absolutely level, without the slightest difference. Otherwise, the device will not stand up straight and wobble during use. If you plan to lay ceramic tiles on the floor, you need to do this before starting the installation work.

Covering an already installed toilet is possible, but it is a very time-consuming procedure that requires precise trimming of each tile. It is much easier to carry out all the necessary activities in advance.

In addition, for work, we will need consumables, which will need to be purchased drills for glass and for concrete and silicone sealant.

When marking, we hold the pencil strictly vertically in order to mark the point for the mounting hole as accurately as possible

Let's consider in more detail the external method of fixing the device. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

We start by trying on. We put the toilet bowl on the base prepared for it and control the angle of inclination, the coincidence of the height of the sewer pipe and the neck, etc. If we find any discrepancies, we quickly eliminate them.
We carry out the markup. To do this, we first define the central axis of the toilet. Ideally, it runs through the center of the room. Guided by it, we install the device at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. We take a marker and carefully outline the outline of the device. Insert the marker strictly vertically into the technological mounting holes and place marks under the holes.
Preparing holes for fasteners. We remove the toilet bowl to the side and, with a punch or drill, make the necessary holes. If tiles are laid on the floor, first we take a drill on the glass, after drilling the cladding, we change it to a drill on concrete. Thoroughly clean the hole from dust and fill it with silicone. It will act as a waterproofing agent. Then we insert the plastic dowels.
We install the toilet. We outlined the device seat in advance with a marker. We put a special rubber gasket on it or apply a generous layer of silicone, which will act as a gasket. We put the equipment in place and press it to the floor. Insert the bushings into the mounting holes and carefully tighten the screws, fix the plugs. Remove excess silicone with a damp finger or rubber spatula.

We tighten the fasteners very carefully. Excessive force can damage equipment that can crack.

We will install a device with an internal mount in a slightly different way. Before installing it, you must make sure that all outlets of engineering systems are brought under the toilet. We carry out the installation as follows:

We attach the fastening system to the toilet bowl.
We carry out the markup. We put the device in the place intended for it, and outline the contour with a marker or a simple pencil. We remove the equipment and mark the holes for the fasteners inside the resulting contour, not forgetting that each connection is fixed to the floor with two bolts
We make the necessary holes. We work on the tiles first with a glass drill, then with a concrete drill. Pour sealant into the holes and install the dowels.
We fasten the fasteners to the floor with bolts. We take the toilet, put it on the installed mounts, and fasten it with bolts through special side holes. Do not overtighten the fasteners yet. It is possible that in the process of connecting the device to engineering systems, it will be necessary to make small adjustments.

Watch the video for more details:

Method # 2: glue mounting

If, for various reasons, the toilet bowl cannot be installed on the wall plugs, you can install it with glue. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. For the operation, you will need a high-quality adhesive. This can be a liquid sealant, silicone glue, or epoxy with a variety of hardeners.

You can make such a composition yourself. To do this, take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy, heated to 50C, add 20 parts of a solvent or plasticizer, stir well. Then pour in 35 parts of the hardener and mix well again.

We add 200 parts of cement to the resulting mass and mix until a plastic homogeneous mass is obtained.

We carry out installation work in the following sequence:

We carry out the markup. We put the plumbing fixture in the place intended for it and draw a pencil around the outline.
Preparing the base. First of all, we thoroughly clean the floor and base of the toilet bowl from possible dirt. To improve adhesion with an adhesive, it is necessary to roughen the surface, so we clean it with an emery cloth. Then we degrease the base of the device and the floor with any solvent or acetone.
Precisely following the manufacturer's instructions, we prepare the adhesive for work.
Gently apply the glue to the inside of the bottom of the toilet and inside the outline marked on the floor. The composition layer should not be too large.
We put the toilet in place and press it strongly against the floor surface.

After we have glued the device, we need to wait until the glue is completely dry. This usually takes about 12 hours. During this time, the equipment should not be touched, much less sit on it.

Otherwise, it may shift to the side, and the mount will not be strong enough.

Before installing the toilet bowl on the glue, be sure to clean the base of the plumbing fixture and the floor under it with sandpaper, creating a rough surface

Method # 3: installation on taffeta (wood spacer)

The method appeared for installing plumbing fixtures on wooden floors, but can be used for other types of coverings as well. To properly install the toilet on the taffeta, you need to perform the following operations:

Cooking taffeta. This is the name of a gasket made of solid wood, to which a plumbing fixture is attached. We cut it out of a board with a thickness of 2.8 to 3.2 cm.We thoroughly process the workpiece with linseed oil or any other solution against decay. In order for the support post to be securely attached to the floor, we fix the anchor in it. The easiest way is to stuff nails into the part in a checkerboard pattern so that they protrude 2-3 cm from the board.
We make a recess in the floor for installing the device. Its shape and size must match the taffeta. Fill the recess with cement mortar.
We turn the taffeta with anchors down and sink it into the cement. If done correctly, the board should be flush with the floor. We are waiting for the cement to dry completely.
We are starting to install the equipment. We put the toilet bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws lubricated with graphite or grease, so that later they can be easily unscrewed. Be sure to place rubber washers under the screw heads so as not to damage the ceramics.

In addition to traditional wooden taffeta, you can also use a rubber backing. For these purposes, sheet material with a thickness of 5-15 mm is suitable.

It is quite possible to use an old rubber mat.

For taffeta, it is best to use a sturdy wood such as ash or oak. Be sure to process the part with linseed oil or another compound that protects the tree from decay

Installation of the cistern and connection to the water supply

After the equipment is fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the cistern. There are two types of this device, consider the features of each attachment.

Installing a cistern on a toilet shelf

Such equipment is easy to install. In this case, it does not matter at all when the internal elements of the tank are installed: before or after installing the devices on the shelf. In general terms, the work is carried out as follows:

We put the tank in place. First, we take special rubber gaskets and lubricate them on both sides with silicone for better sealing.
Place the gaskets on the toilet shelf just above the drain holes and install the cistern.
We fasten the shelf and the tank with bolts. We are waiting for the silicone to harden. This will take 15-20 minutes.
We check the tightness of the resulting connection. To do this, pour water into the tank and see if there are any leaks. If deficiencies are identified, we eliminate them.

After we have installed the cistern, we proceed to the installation of its internal elements:

We connect the water pipe coupling to the tank.
We attach a float valve to the coupling.
We fasten the overflow tube.
We mount the water release lever.
Install the saddle and vertical valve.
By means of traction, we connect the water drainage mechanism and the vertical valve.
We fix the float valve.
We adjust the twist of the float elbow by setting the required angle. The smaller the angle, the less water will flow into the drain tank.

Do not forget to adjust the saddle position - many people forget about this point!

Before installing the cistern on the toilet shelf, be sure to install special gaskets that provide the system with the necessary tightness

Design with cistern fixed above the toilet. Its installation is carried out in this way:

After the plumbing fixture is installed, we bring the drain pipe from the tank to it.
We fix the pipe to the toilet using a special coupling.
Taking into account the height of the drain pipe, we outline the attachment points of the tank on the wall.
We disconnect the pipe from the tank, after which we install the equipment on the wall. We fix it securely. We put the drain pipe in place.

After the installation of the tank is completed, we proceed to the installation of its internal elements:

We mount the trigger.
We fix the vertical valve, seat and overflow mechanism.
The vertical valve, overflow and trigger are connected by means of a pull rod.
We bring a water pipe to the tank and fix it with a coupling with the obligatory use of a rubber gasket.
We fix the float valve on the coupling.
At the desired angle, we connect the twist of the float elbow to the valve.
We adjust the position of the saddle.
Correct the location of the sleeve that connects the toilet and the drain pipe.

To connect the cistern and the water pipe, we use a flexible hose of the required length.

After the connection to the water supply is completed, be sure to test the device. We collect water in the tank and flush it. We control the work of all mechanisms. If problems are identified, we fix them immediately.

The installation height of the hinged cistern can be very different. It depends on the model of the plumbing equipment.

Installing the toilet lid

The last step in installing a do-it-yourself floor-standing toilet is to install the seat and cover. This is a very simple operation. The seat comes with special fasteners, as a rule, they are made of plastic.

It is very easy to unscrew and tighten such parts. In addition, high humidity does not harm the plastic parts.

Another plus - the design with plastic fasteners moves less on the sanitary ware. We attach the lid to the toilet so that the fasteners go into the grooves intended for them.

We move the entire structure forward and tighten the nuts tightly, thus fixing the seat.

To prevent the toilet lid and seat from sliding on the surface of the toilet, tighten the fasteners well

Self-assembly of a toilet bowl is quite feasible for a home craftsman. It is important to correctly determine the type of device and, in accordance with this, choose the optimal installation method.

It is important to carefully read the instructions from the equipment manufacturer, which describes the installation procedure in detail, and strictly follow it during the work. If all these conditions are met, the equipment installed by your own hands will work for a long time and without problems.

To properly install the toilet on the tiles, follow our step-by-step instructions, complete with photos and videos.

Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Full time: ~ 24 hours.

Preparing the room for installing a toilet

It is more correct to install the toilet in a completely renovated room so as not to damage the plumbing. You should have a hole for an outgoing sewer pipe ready, as well as a water outlet for a cistern.

Tools and Materials Needed for Correct Installation

To install the toilet, we need the following tools and materials:

Adjustable spanner
Flexible hose
Fum tape
Pencil or felt-tip pen
Yardstick
Hammer
Dowels and bolts (must be included with the toilet)
Plumbing grease
Liquid silicone
Rubber spatula

The order of the correct installation of the toilet with your own hands

Step 1. Lead to the drain tank

Shut off the water supply to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A tap must be connected here. An angle or straight faucet of your choice can be used. Seal the threads on the tap with fum tape and screw the tap into the water outlet. If using a corner faucet, screw it down so that it faces down. Close the tap valve.

Screw the flexible hose to the tap outlet. It is not necessary to use fum tape, since a sealing elastic is provided in the design of the flexible hose.

Step 2. Marking the reference point for the installation of the toilet

To place the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along the two marks. This line will be our guideline, determining the direction of the correct installation of the toilet.

Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain

If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening points towards the toilet outlet pipe at a smoother angle.

Advice: To make it easier to connect the two pipes, use plumbing lubricant. Apply it to the inside of the drain hole (lubricate the rubber o-ring) and to the outside of the elbow pipe that will fit into the hole.

The drain can be connected to the toilet outlet in two ways:

hard plastic adapter;
flexible corrugation.

In both cases, when inserting the connector, use a plumbing lubricant as indicated above.

Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor

Advice: Do not connect the cistern to the toilet beforehand. When and how to connect the cistern to the toilet, you will learn later in the article.

Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the toilet seat support must be smooth and free from defects. Scrape it off with a sharp knife if necessary.

Place the base of the toilet on the floor at the installation site. Use the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distance from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.

Connect the toilet nipple to the drainage system adapter and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help in the future to install it without additional measurements. Also mark the locations of the holes for the fasteners on both sides.

Step 5. Fastening the toilet to the tile floor

Move the toilet to the side and drill holes in the tiles for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Drive plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tiles.

Reinstall the toilet in its place according to the drawn lines and connect it to the drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet bowl into both mounting holes, but only halfway.

Step 6. Additional fixing of the toilet with liquid silicone

Raise the toilet bowl by 0.5-1 cm, put some coasters in two or three places (use what you have at hand - plastic, pieces of tiles, etc.). Gently insert the white liquid silicone into the gap between the base of the toilet and the floor tiles. Do this around the entire perimeter of the toilet base. Lift the edges of the toilet with your hands and add silicone while removing the stands. The silicone should be evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the base of the toilet and create an abundant "cushion".

Lower the toilet and tighten the fixing screws all the way by hand (do not use excessive force). Remove excess silicone from the outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a nice piping around the entire perimeter of the base.

It is necessary to wait a few hours (see the hardening period of the silicone on the package), and only then proceed with the installation of the toilet.

How to install a toilet flush mechanism

Put a gasket on the thread of the main flush device and insert it into the technological hole of the flush tank. On the reverse side, tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.

Advice: We recommend installing the locking device that controls the water supply to the cistern after installing the cistern on the toilet. This will make the tightening of the fastening screws more convenient - you will not get in the way of the extra mechanism inside the tank.

When installing the locking device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose is put on. Remove any irregularities so that the further connection is tight. Insert the locking device into the hole provided for it in the tank and tighten it from the back with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools, hand tighten the nut.

How to install a toilet cistern

After the silicone has completely hardened and the tank drainage mechanism is assembled, you can proceed to install it on the toilet.

Between the cistern and the base of the toilet, it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (supplied with the toilet). Then slide the cistern over the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet line up with the holes on the cistern. The connecting screws must have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone. Insert the fixing screws into the holes of the cistern and use the plastic nuts (horns) to twist them on the other side. When tightening the screws, make sure that the tank is horizontal.

Screw the flexible water supply hose to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of fum tape, since the connection will take place through a rubber gasket.

The installation of the cistern on the toilet is completed, you can open the tap and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.

Put the cap on the drain tank so that all the elements of the trigger fit into the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this point, the installation of the toilet cistern is complete.

How to install a toilet seat and toilet bowl

The simplest thing remains. Place the toilet seat on the toilet and thread the mounting screws through the holes. Tighten the screws on the back of the toilet lightly. The toilet seat is now installed.

Video lesson: How to properly install the toilet on the tiled floor in the toilet

The work has been completed. You installed the toilet with your own hands and rest assured you did it right!

Having understood the technology of installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet can be installed in the traditional way, or in a more modern way - with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a beneficial effect on the interior of the room.

You are presented with instructions on how to complete each of the installation options listed.

	H	h	h1	L	l	l1	B	b
With one-piece cast shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to make toilet bowls with a length of 575 mm)	330	435	340 and 360	260
Without one-piece cast shelf, mm	370 and 400	320 and 350	150	460	330	435	340 and 360	260
Baby	335	285	130	405	280	380	290	210

Set for work

Perforator.
Roulette.
Adjustable wrench.
Fan pipe.
Flexible hose.
FUM tape.
Fasteners.
Sealant.

In the case of installing a toilet bowl for installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.

Dismantling the old toilet

First step . We shut off the water supply and drain off all the liquid.

Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Step three. We unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusted, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. Press the head of the bolt with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If it does not work out, we pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.

Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.

Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet bowl drain from the sewer.

In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, we use a hammer and a chisel. We need to chop up the cement and gently rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should twist and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.

If the toilet has a floor outlet, the wax ring must be cleaned

Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.

Important! Sewer gases do not smell very pleasant. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account in the process of work.

Preparing for installation

The base for installing the toilet should be flat. There are several options for the development of events, namely:

if the floor is tiled and has no level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
if the floor is tiled and not even, we install the toilet with chopiks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopiks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopiks with screws;
if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.

We pay attention to pipes. Sewer from debris and various sediments, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.

How to install a conventional toilet

As a rule, when sold, the toilet and the cistern are disconnected. The internal reinforcement of the barrel is most often already assembled, which greatly facilitates the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Floor marks for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet and drill the mounting holes in the marked places.

Step three. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special gaskets. We tighten the fasteners. Do not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners, or even the toilet itself. We pull until rigid fixing of the sanitary ware to the surface is ensured. We close the fasteners with plugs from above.

Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The assembly manual usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.

Video - Installing the Compact toilet bowl with wall outlet

Prices for components for toilets and urinals

Accessories for toilets and urinals

If the release is on the wall, we work like this:

If the release is set up on the floor, we do the following:

Useful advice! If the connection of the toilet bowl to the drain pipe is made using a corrugation, in most cases, sealing can be dispensed with, because the design of such a transition hose is itself capable of providing a sufficiently tight fit.

Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drainage mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure for different models may differ slightly).

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

It is most convenient to install fasteners as follows:

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it breaks in somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.

Let the tank fill up several times and drain the water. If everything is ok, we take the toilet into permanent operation.

Modern installation option. A special wall installation is used, in which the cistern mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the flush button are visible.

We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation

The first stage is the installation of the frame

We carry out installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use with any toilet bowl.

The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width must exceed the width of the tank.

The second stage - we hang the tank

The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

place the drain button about a meter from the floor;
between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet bowl;
the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
we maintain no more than 15 mm distance between the cistern and the wall.

The third stage - we mount the finished installation

We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are found, do the following:

The fourth stage - we install the tank

First, we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost all modern cistern models allow you to choose between these two options.

Important! When installing the toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, would you want to destroy the frame skin for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!

It is best to use plastic pipes for the connection. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that is not always the case.

We connect the outlet of our toilet with the sewerage system. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.

Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may differ depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's manual.

The fifth stage - we cover the installation

To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it with a double layer. First, we do the following:

screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet bowl (included in the kit);
we close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they do not get clogged with dust and debris;
we make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.

We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame using special screws. Maintain the fastening step at a level of 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, therefore there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.

We cover the drywall with tiles or trim it in another way at our discretion.

Useful advice! Before starting the tiling of the box, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.

Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet

Sixth stage - install the toilet

To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). These steps can be performed in reverse order, as you prefer. We tighten the fastening nuts.

Important! Previously, the tile that will be in contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).

You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.

The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.

First step. Fix the knee position firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.

Second step. Treat the outlet of the toilet with technical ointment.

Step three. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.

Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the included mounting brackets according to the markings.

Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the waste pipe and secure the plumbing fixture using the bolts or other fasteners supplied.

Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. The installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of the installation of a wall-mounted toilet model.

Seventh step. We put the drain button in a previously prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for continuous operation.

Read our new article - and also find out what the varieties are, how to choose and install.

Video - Installing a side-mounted toilet with a hidden cistern

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation

The installation of new plumbing is a concern for many novice craftsmen. A variety of design solutions for plumbing fixtures and ways to connect them requires the performer to know the intricacies of the process.

The main ones we will try to reveal and make out how to properly install the toilet with our own hands without the help of plumbers.

The range of sanitary ware on the market is diverse. Any owner has the opportunity to choose presentable and functional equipment to his own taste and wallet.

In addition to traditional floor-standing models, manufacturers offer a wide selection of suspended and built-in devices. The cistern in them can be attached to the wall or connected to the base of the plumbing.

The version of the bowl for floor-standing and pendant models can be any, for example, a dish-shaped, funnel-shaped or even a visor modification

The latest models of toilets also differ in the design of key nodes.

Output drain happens:

horizontal;
vertical;
oblique.

The type of outlet drain should be considered when choosing a model. If your plans do not include reworking the supply of the sewer pipe, then in the installed model the drain should be arranged according to the same principle as in the dismantled one.

Mismatched plumbing and plumbing supplies, provided that it is not a toilet bowl with an outlet, is almost impossible to combine as tightly and efficiently as possible.

Fixing the plumbing to the floor is carried out by means of specially made two or four attachment points. But you can also find models in which the corners supplied with the product are used for fastening to the floor.

A new plumbing fixture can be put in place of the old one, or you can choose another "corner" for it, making a small redevelopment in the bathroom.

Preparation of tools and materials

To connect the tank to the water supply, you will need a flexible hose. It usually comes with the kit. For connection to the sewer - a rigid or flexible corrugated cuff.

It is impossible to carry out a high-quality installation of the toilet with your own hands without a minimum set of necessary tools that any owner has in the house

To assemble the structure and connect to communications, you will need:

hammer drill or hammer drill;
a set of flat and cross-head screwdrivers;
set of wrenches;
building level;
a simple pencil or marker;
stationery knife;
roulette;
chisel;
hammer.

If the installation of plumbing will be carried out on a tile, then it is also necessary to prepare a "ballerina" or a spear-shaped drill for work on the tile. To make holes for the installation of fasteners, you will also need an 8 or 10 mm drill.

Of the auxiliary materials you will also need:

metallized tape;
silicone sealant;
FUM tape;
polyethylene film;
moisture-absorbing piece of fabric;
container for collecting liquid.

Depending on the type of model to be connected and the installation method, grout may also be required.

Dismantling an old toilet

Detaching an old toilet is one of the most time consuming operations.

The work is performed in several stages:

Turn off the tap.
The hose leading to the tank is disconnected from the water supply system, water is drained from it.
The empty tank is removed from the mountings.
Unscrew the nuts located on the back of the toilet and disconnect it from the sewer. To loosen the drain, the toilet must be shaken from side to side.
Drain the remaining water from the toilet by tilting the bowl forward.
The sewer hole closer to paradise is cleaned of dirt and temporarily clogged with a rag gag or a wooden stopper of a suitable diameter.

The easiest way to tear off the bolts is to hold the head with an open-end wrench and unscrew the adjustable nut. If the threaded connections are heavily slagged with salt deposits or rusted.

To facilitate the task will help the use of universal grease "WD-40", which in a matter of minutes is able to loosen deposits. In the absence of such, you can use vinegar or kerosene.

The sewer hole must be closed so that toxic hot gases do not spread outside the pipeline

If rotten taffeta or any other support is found under the dismantled toilet, it must be removed. This can be done with a hammer drill, nail puller or chisel.

In old houses, plums on sewer pipes are often fixed by means of cement coating. It is easiest to knock down the dried solution with a chisel, chipping it in several places. Read the detailed instructions for dismantling the old toilet.

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Option # 2 - with horizontal outlet

Plumbing fixtures with horizontal outlet have become one of the most popular in our country. The relevance of the installation of such equipment is explained by the specifics of the sewerage system wiring in Russian apartments.

The main feature of toilets with a straight horizontal outlet is that for proper installation, a strictly fixed connection point to communications is required

The horizontal outlet is located at the back of the bowl or base and is directed towards the rear. Models with this design are installed end-to-end with the wall, connecting to any type of location of the sewer riser.

The connection is made using appropriately sized fittings. The joint is sealed by placing a sealing rubber inside the pipe.

Direct connection is carried out only on condition that the sewer system is made of plastic. To connect to cast iron pipes, the circumference of which rarely has an ideal shape, cuffs and eccentrics are used.

Option # 3 - with oblique release

The socket on models with an oblique outlet is located at an angle of 45 ° relative to the floor surface. Models with an inclined outlet win against the background of their counterparts in that they are less likely to clog up, since this design allows you to create less resistance when moving solid sewage.

The weak point of devices with an oblique outlet is the articulation points of the product with the sewer pipe, which, if improperly installed, can become cracked

Connecting the device with an oblique outlet to the sewage system can be done in one of three ways:

By direct connection through the socket of a sewer branch. They are chosen when there is no need to move the plumbing fixture, and the direction of all elements clearly coincides. The outlet of the toilet bowl is treated with soapy water and buried in a socket equipped with a cuff.
Connection by means of an eccentric. A flare with an off-center 5 cm, equipped with a sealing gasket, is mounted in the sewer outlet and, by rotation, the toilet is shifted to the right or left side.
By installing a corrugated bend. The use of corrugations makes it possible to turn the device of a relative oblique drainage outlet even at an angle of 90 °.

Flexible outlet - although convenient, but far from the best way to connect toilets with an oblique outlet. It should be used only in extreme cases, when there is no way to use other methods.

To find out in more detail how the oblique outlet toilet is installed, go to.

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The simplest option for connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet is to use a corrugation, which ensures perfect tightness.

If with the help of a corrugation, not a temporary, but a long-term connection is made, then you need to use a reinforced version of the corrugated pipe

Using the corrugation, the inclined toilet can be connected to a drain located in the floor or in the wall

If it is possible to reduce the distance between the toilet and the sewer system, instead of a corrugation, it is recommended to use a sealed cuff and a plastic outlet

The use of corrugations in the connection to the sewer

Reinforced corrugation for reliable performance

Toilet bowl connection with side outlet

Cuff in the unit of connection to the sewer

Features of mounting compact models

The technology for the correct installation of compact floor-standing toilets includes seven main steps:

The toilet bowl is moved as tightly as possible to the drain hole and it is checked whether the outlet coincides with the sewer bell.
In the presence of small displacements, the device is connected to the sewer outlet using a corrugated pipe.
The plumbing fixture with the connected corrugated pipe is moved to the wall, making sure that strong creases and bends do not form on the pipe.
The ends of the connector are covered with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
Having adjusted the position of the device, with a pencil, outline the contour of the boundaries of the sole of the device and the point where it is planned to drill holes for deepening the dowels.
The toilet is pushed aside. At the designated points, holes are made with a diamond drill with a diameter equal to the size of the dowels used.
Plastic plugs are buried in the holes. The toilet bowl is "put up" in its original place. Bolts are screwed into the prepared holes.

Advice: to make it easier to put on the corrugated tube on the outlet, its end must be smeared along the inner walls with liquid soap.

If holes have to be made in the tile to minimize surface damage, first slowly manually drill the top layer by hand, and only then turn on the hammer drill.

To ensure the most tight fit of the toilet bowl to the floor covering, silicone is applied according to the intended counter of the installation of the device. The toilet itself is then put in its original place, guided by the outlined contour.

To fix the plumbing fixture, the washers and screws threaded through the holes in the heel are tightened extremely carefully. In no case should they be driven in!

Photo guide for assembling and installing the compact

Let's consider the process of installing a toilet using the example of assembling and fixing the Chinese PORTA plumbing fixtures. An excellent product with a 25-year manufacturer's warranty and a very attractive price.

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Before installing a new toilet, we dismantle the old plumbing, clean the floor under it, repair it and fill it with a semi-dry cement mortar

We install a new plastic adapter into the sewer outlet, to which we will connect either a corrugation or a hard plastic elbow

If necessary, change the cold water pipes in the area behind the toilet. Most often this has to be done in order not to change the pipeline after a year or two after installing new plumbing

According to the completed piping from the toilet bowl to the sewer, we expose the plumbing fixtures for fitting, in order to mark the attachment points and outline the leg

Step 1: Preparing the Floor for Installing a New Toilet

Step 2: Replacing pipes and pipes connecting to the sewer