How to make a clay pond castle. We create a pond with fish in the country with our own hands

You can absolutely correctly, plant beautiful aquatic plants, perfectly arrange the coastal zone, but spoil everything with the sloppy decoration of the border of the pond with the garden. A professional approach to this issue will not only solve the problems of garden pond decor, but also eliminate the likelihood of coastal erosion.

On the Internet, there is a huge amount of information about the installation of a reservoir, the choice of materials for waterproofing and edging, the selection of plants, and the technology itself for decorating the border of the water and the coast is not well covered.

Materials for the design of the reservoir

Pond decor materials should be harmoniously tied to the size of the garden and the style of the house. Most often used are natural and artificial stone, crushed rocks, pieces of marble, pebbles of various colors, ceramic and paving slabs, wood, gravel, sand. For reservoirs with a concrete base, marble chips, colored glass, fragments of porcelain and ceramics are used, which are fixed on the concrete that has not yet hardened, the fragments are pressed inward with sharp edges.

All decorative elements of the shoreline of the reservoir must be properly fixed in their positions. Stones, ceramic and paving slabs, bricks are fixed with cement mortar, while leaving pockets for planting plants.

Edging of a film reservoir

For a natural transition from pond to garden, you can use a special decorative film, which is covered with a layer of gravel, so it perfectly imitates rocky relief. Since the film with a stone itself does not hold water, it is laid on top of the waterproofing, and the bottom of the pond is carefully lined in such a way that its rocky edges come ashore. It is advisable to fix the edges and seams with adhesive for the film. Then large stones are placed in random order on the surface of the film along the edge of the pond, simulating a natural landscape. Such a film is the most successful option for decorating a reservoir with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals.

Coconut mats for pond edging

If the pond has sheer walls, then when the water evaporates, film edges can be observed. In this case, for edging, wicker dark brown coconut mats are used, which visually imitate the soil, do not interfere with the growth and development of coastal plants, the latter, growing densely on a solid foundation, decorate and strengthen the banks well.

The technology for laying coconut mats is quite simple. The mats are laid without stretching, starting from the coastal part, they are placed along the border of the future reservoir with the coast, lowering the lower part of the skein by about 50 cm into the pit, and carefully fixing the upper part on the coast using U-shaped brackets from the reinforcement. To fix the mat to PVC, special assembly glue is used. At the junction of coconut canvases, the overlap should be at least 20 cm. When installing, take into account the direction of the overlap - the edge of the web should not be visible from the viewing side. From the shore, the mesh structure of the coconut mat is covered with a plant substrate, and the part of the mat that will be in the water is covered with sandy soil mixed with fine gravel.

Coconut Mats Laying Option

Another option

In this case, you can get by with a minimum amount or completely exclude it from the design of the reservoir. This method of decorating the coastal area of \u200b\u200bthe reservoir simulates the most natural landscape and is well suited for the landscape style.

Benefits of coconut mats for strengthening the banks of the reservoir

1. Environmentally friendly natural material.

2. Does not require large investments.

3. Easy to install.

4. Protects banks from erosion.

5. Provides long life due to slow decomposition of coconut fiber.

6. Promote vegetation growth and soil strengthening.

7. Improves the outflow of water.

8. Resistant to U / F radiation.

9. Resistant to the processes of decomposition of organic substances.

10. Closes the waterproofing of the reservoir when water evaporates.

11. Serves as the basis for the root system of aquatic and coastal plants.

If coconut mats are not used to fix the banks of the reservoir, and only planned around it, then the edges of the film waterproofing can be hidden under the lawn to a depth of 8-10 cm.But this method will not help to mask unsightly film edges when water evaporates and will not save from waterlogging and erosion the coastal part with its excess. Therefore, after the usual torrential rain, a flooded meadow will suddenly appear in the clearing around the garden reservoir. In the summer it is half the trouble, but in the fall? Therefore, you should not save on strengthening the banks, just put a coconut mat under the lawn. There will be no obstacles for the growth of lawn grass, the waterproofing will be closed, and the coastline will be protected from erosion.

There are no special secrets in the technology of crossing the boundaries of a concrete or stone edging with a lawn. Both stone and concrete can directly adjoin water, earth and vegetation.

How to decorate the edges of a pond with stone

The size of the stone framing the edge of the pond should be proportional to the size of the pond itself, large stones are harmoniously combined with a large reservoir, small ones with small ones. The shape and structure of the stones should also be similar. It is not advisable to use several different types of stones in the design of the reservoir.

Making a pond from a concrete base or a polymer form with the help of a stone, it is necessary to prepare a substrate from the side of the shore - where the stones come into contact with the ground, first lay black lutrasil, cover it with sand, then gravel. Large boulders are laid along the perimeter of the reservoir in such a way that part of the stone hangs slightly above the water, in which case all the costs of the edges of the pond are easily covered.

Small stones, which cover the bottom of the reservoir, should smoothly transition to the shore into larger ones. Moreover, when laying out stones along the perimeter of the coastal zone, you need to ensure that a solid line does not form. In this case, it is better to make the edging of the reservoir intermittent, alternating stones and plants in an arbitrary order, avoiding symmetry. Large stones are placed flat, slightly tilted to the side towards the shore.

Before permanently fixing the stones in cement, they should be laid out in their intended places, then you need to consider the composition from all sides and correct errors. Only after that, the stones can be installed on the cement mortar, deepening into the solution by 1/3 of their height. Don't forget to leave your pockets for planting.

How to design the edges of a pond with regular geometric shapes

The edging of strict geometric shapes of garden ponds can be performed using wooden boards, ceramic tiles, stone slabs, natural or artificial stone. When choosing a material for decorating the coastal zone, it is necessary to take into account that after rain, wooden boards and glossy ceramic tiles become slippery.

Natalia Vysotskaya, dendrologist, landscape designer, Ph.D. -x. sciences

2012 - 2017,. All rights reserved.

But, seeing how the neighbors had squeezed out a bowl of high-strength cement several tons in a couple of winters, I became convinced that a rigid structure was not suitable. In general, I thought everything over and got to work.

He made the outline of the future reservoir oval - 8 m long, 3.5 m wide.

Together with my son we dug for a week, the walls were made inclined, approximately 120 °. The summer was dry and it was easy to dig: dry clay did not stick to the shovel. On the occasion, I bought a black adhesive film for gas pipelines, a very good thing, the only negative is that it is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, but it still served for almost 20 years.

The pond turned out to be 1.5 m deep, three steps were made for the exit, at the lowest point they buried a 160-liter plastic barrel for the pump when changing the water. Then the entire reservoir was laid with two layers of polyethylene and glued with black self-adhesive film - it was super at that time.

True, the reservoir was quickly chosen by the larvae of mosquitoes, it was necessary to launch the fry of crucian carp, which took root perfectly.

In winter I do not drain the water, and the fish calmly winter in a barrel (the depth is 2.5 m).

However, time goes by, the film has cracked over the years, the view has become untidy. I decided to overlay the reservoir with a stone, since I dumped a whole bunch of it from the city, mainly from garbage dumps.

Again, together with my son, they ripped off all the old film, glued it with a new one, especially since now everything can be bought. The bottom of the reservoir (up to 80 cm) was overlaid with a square diabase with a solid bowl on concrete with reinforcement.

Above, I began to make blocks of 12 stones with thermal expansion joints so that it would not break in winter.

And on top, the parapet and the framing of the flowerpot were made entirely of concrete and wild stone, and there was also enough stone for the slide-waterfall.

In general, while my structure stood for two winters, no cracks are visible. Crucians are also doing well. Last year there were so many fry that they shared with neighbors, they just have a wild pond.

To be honest, there is a lot of work, everything about everything took 20 bags of cement and a decent amount of stone, but it turned out so beautiful! And the water gurgles from the jug, and the crucians play in the water! If anyone has any questions, call.

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To decorate man-made reservoirs, landscape designers actively use all kinds of stones. With their help, you can mask the artificial materials used in the construction of a pond in the country, as well as give the reservoir a more natural and picturesque look.

We offer you a short instruction on the choice of stones for the arrangement of reservoirs and how to lay them.

Where can stones be used?

Stones are ubiquitously used to give a pond a finished look. They find application:

• in the coastal zone... Place some large round or irregular stones here. They will become an element that delimits the area of \u200b\u200bthe reservoir;
• in shallow water... Here it is appropriate to place several stones, partially hidden by water, as well as pebbles covering all shallow water;
• at the bottom of the reservoir... In deep (more than 1 m) reservoirs, the bottom usually does not require decoration. But you can lay several large stones that will be visible through the water column. They will look especially impressive at night with the device. Also, the stones perfectly mask the submersible pump, making it indistinguishable at the bottom of the pond;
• on the islets... Several large stones are located over the area of \u200b\u200bthe island, as well as on the shore;
• as part of a waterfall... Flat stones are used to form a cascade, a plane from which water will fall to the next level. Stones of suitable shape and size are used to form an artificial hill;
• at the source of the spring... A beautiful block is chosen as the stone from which the artificial spring will be ejected. A hole is drilled in it and a pump is connected - it turns out simple, but very;
• when building fountains... The decorative stone is used to mask the nozzles of the fountain and the hose through which water is pumped.

Below is one example of decorating water bodies with stones.

Which stone should you choose?

The video below shows an example of the design of a reservoir with stones: here there was a place for both springs and a waterfall.

About artificial stone

Those who are not going to haul heavy boulders or hire lifting equipment for these purposes can use artificial stone. It is a decorative fiberglass product that is hollow inside and has a hole in the bottom.

Outwardly, such stones are practically indistinguishable from natural ones, they have a characteristic relief and color. Their main application is masking pumping equipment, hatches, various technological units. But they can also be used as an independent element of landscape design, for example, this applies to huge decorative boulders.

1. Large stones look great in a pond, half or a third submerged in the water. Especially if their surface is decorated with live moss. But for its development, the lump must be in a shady place.
2. Don't want water to bloom actively in the reservoir? Then try to avoid the use of limestone, which reduces its acidity, which, together with good natural light of the pond, leads to the development of algae.
3. If a film was used as a waterproofing of a reservoir, do not place stones with sharp edges, heavy boulders in the reservoir and next to it. To play it safe on top, the plastic wrap can be covered with a layer of geotextile.
4. Be very careful about masking the edge of the pond - do not make a heavy stone necklace around it, which will look redundant. Make the stone contour discontinuous by varying the design of the coastline with sand embankments or plants.
5. Combine the stones used in the construction of a hydraulic structure with materials used in the construction or decoration of buildings on the site. For example, if marble was used for facing the columns of a gazebo, then it may well be used for decorating a fountain.

Even with the help of one stone, you can make a good waterfall. Confirmation of these words is in the video below.

Stacking options

The stone is laid in two ways: with and without mortar. The use of cement mortar is justified if you need to strengthen the banks of the reservoir, equip the stream bed, build a complex structure of a waterfall or fountain. In these cases, use a mixture of sand and cement grade M300 or higher in a 3: 1 ratio.

Dilute the mixture with water until the consistency of fat sour cream. To give the solution its characteristic waterproofing properties, add up to 10% liquid glass to it, and then mix thoroughly. Apply the solution in a layer of the required thickness, then moisten the stone and fix it in the desired position.

Immerse smooth rounded stones in the solution by 2/3 of their volume - this will prevent them from falling out of the nest later. After three days, the masonry mortar will acquire sufficient strength.

Natural stone laying is a real art. Even if you plan to reinforce the masonry with mortar, try to assemble it without it first. So you can choose the bricks of your design that are optimal in size and shape. A high-quality stone finish assumes the presence of a minimum thickness of the masonry joint from the solution, which is achieved by careful thought over each step.

The approach to laying stones when decorating and strengthening the banks of the pond is largely determined by the slope of the underwater part of the coastline. If it does not exceed 30 degrees, then the stones can be laid without mortar, but for a tighter fixation, you need to use oily clay. In other cases, it is better to use a mortar on cement.

Alternatively, you can lay a row of stones up to 0.5 m high, then pour cement mortar into the space between the film and the stones. Only after grasping it can you continue to work on the same principle.

As parting words

Resist the temptation to turn your pond into a stone lined pool! Keep in mind that moderation is important in design. Pay more attention to those that will delight you with their greenery and flowers.

Leonid Karpov

Returning from Fokine, I wandered around the small Vladimir train station, waiting for the train, and thought about how to use the time usefully. Approaching a bookstore, I immediately drew attention to the book "Reservoirs and Pools". " But at each site Anastasia offered to dig a lake", - I remembered and began leafing through the book with interest. However, everywhere it was supposed to be an artificial waterproof layer-film, roofing material, etc., which was not woven into the light image of the estate - the banks should" breathe "! Later I learned that when covering the bottom with a film, the water must be regularly drained, otherwise it will deteriorate.

Arriving in Chelyabinsk, I pondered how water holds in natural reservoirs - there is natural waterproofing! And in the book by Anastasia Semyonova "The living water of your garden" I met the project of the lake " on a clay castle".

Clay Castle Lake Project

First of all, dig a depression with sloping (not steeper than 20-25 degrees) banks, in a third of the depth of the reservoir you intended. The excavated soil will continue the banks and triple the depth ... With a slope from the pit, make a groove, into which from the very wall of the reservoir lay a pipe to drain excess water into a ditch or ravine. Strengthen the bottom and walls of the reservoir with clay.

The clay is kneaded with water to a soft dough that does not stick to the shovel. The mass with a layer of 15 centimeters is laid on the bottom and on the walls of the reservoir and tamped. The clay is allowed to dry, a second layer is laid and tamped again. Then the third layer is laid. Each layer shrinks by about 3 centimeters, so the final thickness is about 35-39 cm.

At the edges of the reservoir, reinforcing layers of clay are made 15 cm above the estimated water level. After final drying, a 2-3-cm layer of coarse gravel is tamped into the top layer of clay. For the final finishing, 5-7 cm of fine gravel or sand is poured over the gravel.

If the soil is less water-absorbing, the bottom of the pool is strengthened with clay mixed with straw: The pools are usually filled with rainwater.

Much attention is paid to the vegetation of the lake:

The yellow flowers of the swimsuit and the lower marsh marigold are in harmony with the blue forget-me-nots reflecting in the water. The graceful inflorescences of Astilba bloom in July, when the rest of the plants have already faded.

The dense foliage of the peony serves as a good backdrop for the delicate leaves of astilba and bathers, and large purple flowers bring animation to the blue-yellow range of spring flowering. The flower decoration is complemented by willow - a constant companion of natural reservoirs: Flowers are illuminated by the sun; ferns grow in the deep shade of the willow. The pleasant aroma of chubushnik (jasmine) planted by the bench will add even more charm to this corner of the garden.

It seems that the events in my life are lining up with more and more strict logic. At the "Chalice of Love" festival, taking a break from the heat and immobility, I swam in the local pool and was amazed at how successful its size is - small, but allowing you to relax, joining in a different, joyful state ...

The coach, who is looking after the pool at the same time, reported its dimensions - 10x25 meters, depth - 1.1-1.2 m. Anastasia's words came to mind: " In the garden we will dig a shallow pond, two hundred square meters in size". 10x20 meters - just two hundred square meters! Taking into account the smooth lowering of the banks (maximum 25o), the volume of the pond is about 160 m3.

To replace the water in it in 2 weeks, as is done in a pool, a source with a capacity of 8 liters per minute is required - a water tap gives 15 with a good pressure. The spring that Anastasia proposed to create at each site (Vladimir Megre talked about it at the presentation of the fifth books in Petersburg) can flow into the pond, replenishing it with fresh water.

Based on materials from the site www.anastasiaclub.ru

P.S. If you think this information is worth sharing with others, share it on social media.

(magazine "DOM" No. 9 for 2010) we considered the issues that need to be solved when designing a pond: the choice of location, shape and size of the reservoir, methods of filling it, etc. Now we will focus on the main stages construction of a decorative pond with a bed made of polyvinyl chloride film.

Pit

After the project of the pond is ready, they begin to dig a pit. At the same time, they first dig the deepest place of the pond, and then gradually select the sidewalls, bringing the bed to the desired size and shape.

If the soil is loamy or clayey, then at the very bottom of the bottom it is advisable to make a vertical drainage hole with a drill and fill it with rubble or sand. The importance of this event will become clear when, in the midst of work, a heavy rain suddenly starts and water rushes into the pit - through the drainage it will go into the ground. And subsequently, when pond will be built, groundwater will also go into this drainage without putting pressure on the walls.

As in the manufacture of a pond from reinforced concrete, when using polyvinyl chloride (PVC) films for this purpose, you must first make a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 cm - along the shore and 15 cm - at the bottom. After filling, the sand is spilled and compacted. After that, geotextiles with a density of 300 g / m 2 are laid on it. This material looks like felt, it stretches well and can withstand large point loads (in the instructions for making ponds, it is sometimes called "soft bedding material").
Geotextile strips are laid on the bed across the long axis with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Instead of the "300" geotextile, several layers of "80" or "100" can be laid. However, it should be borne in mind that the material of these grades stretches weakly and does not withstand large point loads, therefore, when preparing the pit, all stones and roots should be removed from its walls and bottom, and the bedding sand should be sieved.
Transparent film for greenhouses and greenhouses is not used in the construction of ponds, since it loses its quality after 3 years (but usually breaks earlier). The same can be said about the reinforced film.
PVC film for a reservoir (like a rubber membrane) is used with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm. These materials are acid- and alkali-resistant, do not decompose under the influence of sunlight, high and low temperatures, and withstand significant mechanical stress. They are produced in strips up to 15 m wide, which makes it possible to cover the pond bed in one piece. In addition, the pieces of film are easy to stick together.

The dimensions of the film are determined after the sand cushion is made. The film should reach the shore about 0.5 m above the water level. Moreover, the very edge of the film should be bent upwards, cut at a level of 2 ... 3 cm above the soil surface and fixed in this position with stones. Otherwise, water from the pond, due to the surface tension force, will be sucked into the soil surrounding the reservoir.

Laying foil and stones

A prepared piece of film, folded in half along the long axis, is placed on one side of the bed, after which the film is unrolled on the other side. The material is straightened so that it is pressed against the ground as much as possible. The upper parts of the film are pressed on the banks with stones.
If you plan to build bathing pond, then after laying the film, it can be filled with water. If they want to give the reservoir a natural look, its walls are lined with flagstone or boulders. It is believed that stones can be laid directly on the film, but it is better to protect it with geotextiles with a density of 80 or 100 g / m 2 and already place stones on it.

The bottom can be made of stone or gravel. In the latter case, the laying of stones begins from the walls of the bed. But in general, it is advisable to use crushed stone as a decorative material, and not as a bottom backfill, since due to flowability, the film may not withstand the pressure of groundwater and swell in the bottom of the pond.
When the slope of the underwater part of the coast is less than 30 °, stones are laid without fastening to each other, but with bandaging the seams, filling the space between them with either clay or a mixture of clay and wet peat in a ratio of 3: 1. If the bank is steeper, the stones should be fixed with cement mortar. This is done as follows: a row of stones is laid, after which the space between the film (geotextile) and the stones is filled with cement mortar, and the voids facing the inside of the pond are covered with clay. In one day, you should not put more than 50 cm of stones in height, since if the cement mortar is not frozen, the masonry can slide down the slope of the coast.

Pumping equipment and decorative lighting

Any body of water looks more attractive when using various kinds of lighting and organizing the movement of water. A large selection of surface and underwater lights, pumps, fountains and pumps, often combined with filters, are currently on sale. You just need to remember that all products that consume electricity must be properly labeled, allowing their use in the open air and in water. Electrical wiring must meet the same conditions.

When using electrical equipment, the question often arises: "Should I leave it for the winter?" The answer depends on the size of the pond. Luminaires and pumps should be removed from freezing low-volume shallow reservoirs. In non-freezing reservoirs (at a depth of more than 1.5 m), electrical equipment is left for the winter. However, if pumps and lamps are installed in a freezing zone (up to 0.6 ... 1 m), they should be removed or buried. In addition, in the fall it is necessary to drain the water from the surface filters and pipes (hoses).
If the electrical equipment is planned to be removed when the pond is preserved for the winter, then when it is installed, the wires are either left openly lying on the ground (black wires do not strike the eye), or they are covered with stones, rubble, laid between plants, etc. If the electrical equipment is not removed, then it is more convenient to pass the wires and hoses and bring them to the shore through a special pipe, which is placed in advance on the pond bed and covered with stones. On the shore, the wires are hidden in a corrugated sleeve and buried to a depth of at least 10 cm.
Finally, in accordance with safety standards, any electrical equipment must be de-energized as quickly as possible in case of breakdowns or malfunctions. That is, the switch, sockets, and in some models - ballasts, must be installed near the pond in a special electrical box.

Filling and decorating the pond

Usually, 7-10 days after laying the last decorative stone on the cement mortar (in some recommendations, when using high grades of cement, a period of 3 days is indicated), the first filling the pond... The water is kept for about 10 days, preferably with stirring. (To do this, it is enough to lower the pump into the pond, the hose from which is placed at the surface of the pond.) The task of the "first water" is to displace air from possible cavities between the lining stones and the film and press the film as much as possible against the pond bed, wash out alkaline substances from the frozen cement mortar ( of course, not all, but - if possible) and rinse the filling crushed stone. After removing the "first water", they clean the bottom of the pond from dirt and debris, mount pumps (pumps, fountains), install underwater lamps, decorate or hide wires and hoses.
Aquatic and semi-aquatic plants are planted in previously prepared and soaked soil in niches on the slopes of the banks. From above, the soil is covered with rubble or pebbles. Plants can also be planted in mesh baskets with soil, which are installed either in niches or on the bottom of a reservoir and decorated with stones.
If the reservoir can be filled in a short time, then all the plants are planted at once. Otherwise, the plants are planted as the pond fills.

It should be remembered that the pond will fulfill its decorative function if it becomes an element of the whole complex, consisting of the reservoir itself, plants, stone lining and dumps, as well as paths and garden structures - bridges, etc. Of the trees and shrubs near the pond, weeping forms of willow, birch, larch, small bushes of purple willow or sucker, single plantings of juniper or mountain pine, turf, scumpia, hydrangea, chubushnik, spirea thickets, astilbe, buy and so on - an assortment of suitable plants are practically limitless.

Water cascade

A cascade, a waterfall, a cliff, a rock, a coastal rock garden, a spring - the design of these decorative elements should be created at the design stage of the pond. All these "structures", with the exception of perhaps a small coastal rock garden or a spring, should be built on their own foundations. Otherwise, a multi-ton mass of stone (and 1 m 3 of stone can weigh 2 tons) will simply move into the pond and destroy its wall.
Therefore, first of all, one should determine the size of the cascade (or other structures), calculate its tonnage and determine the pressure on the ground. It is believed that at a pressure of 1 ton per 1 m 2, the depth of a monolithic foundation can be within 50 cm.

But it should be borne in mind that when the soil freezes, such a foundation can be squeezed out or shifted to the side by heaving forces. Therefore, it is laid to the depth of freezing, subject to the relevant requirements (laying a sand cushion, filling the sinuses with non-porous soil, waterproofing).
The height of the waterfall, the number of waterfalls in the cascade, the degree of overhanging of the rock, the steepness of the cliff - all this is chosen according to your taste or based on the recommendations of the designer.
But there are some purely construction tricks:
- all masonry or masonry materials should not retain water, otherwise it may tear the masonry in winter;
- to ensure a uniform flow of water at the top of the waterfall, a "water intake" should be laid out of the stone, where water will be pumped in. The drain stone is made of limestone, the outer edge of which is set horizontally in level, and the rear part is slightly deepened;
- so that the water in the "water intake" does not remain for the winter, it is necessary to make a drainage hole in its lower part, which is closed in summer;
- when a waterfall jet falls, a large amount of spray is usually formed, which over time can wash away the wall of the waterfall and the foundation. To avoid this, the wall is protected with a film or membrane, which is decorated with stones;
- when constructing a cascade, it is advisable to create a lower "receiving tank" and push the drain stone forward so that water does not fall directly onto the pond wall.

Of course, a waterfall or rock, cascade or spring will look lonely and unkempt if not decorated with plants. Near these structures, you can plant all plants suitable for rock gardens and rockeries. In addition, under the spray of water, such "non-combustible" plants as ferns, calla, irises, feces, kupen, etc. will feel great.
It should be borne in mind that all stone elements greatly cool the soil in autumn and do not allow the plants to properly prepare for winter. Therefore, you should not plant plants directly into the stone massif. It is necessary to ensure reliable thermal insulation of the soil and, consequently, plant roots from the stone mass.

S. Batov, magazine "House" №10 / 2010

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