Do-it-yourself installation and connection of the toilet bowl. DIY: how to install a toilet with your own hands

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. And it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before the start of finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilet bowls are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, planning which toilet you have to mount with your own hands should begin already at the design stage of the toilet.

And what to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding the global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the masters will help you save money and mount the toilet with your own hands without any problems.

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet bowl that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and supply of sewer communications and floor screed);
what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
what mount your future toilet has;
what is the way to flush the toilet;
At what height do you want to install plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, it remains only to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet bowl.

Recall that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in form and its device.

Classification by bowl shape:

funnel-shaped;
plate-shaped;
visor.

Outlet drain happens at toilet bowls:

horizontally oblique;
vertically arranged.

The drain tank can be combined with the toilet bowl and independent (wall-mounted).

Toilets are attached to the floor: on 2 and 4 attachment points, on the corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means that it is attached to the floor. It will be possible to remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.
We unscrew the thin hose suitable for the tank.
We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty or “sticky”, you can water them, leaving for 5-7 minutes, with a special tool that will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip off the bolts using a screwdriver and adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to succumb, you can pre-spray on the mount "WD", kerosene composition, etc.
Following the tank bolts, you need to unscrew the toilet bowl mounts. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To simplify the process, use the same methods as when working with tank mounts.
Next, you need to unhook the toilet drain from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably smeared with cement for strength. It must be beaten off with a hammer and screwdriver. First you need to crumble the coating across the seam, and then you can mechanically destroy the cement. The drain should swing for now, but stay in its place.
We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.
Ready. The old toilet can be unhooked and proudly carried to the trash, while not forgetting to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plug made of plastic, fabric or wood.

If there are no plans for an old toilet, and you are seeing him off on his last journey, then after swinging it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to carry it out. You will also have to do the same if the fasteners of the old plumbing are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, evaluate the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains (by the way, you can also read about installing plastic pipes with your own hands on our website).

Self-installation of plumbing "step by step"

For normal operation, the toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

First, we connect the drain of the toilet bowl with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. You can also use a hard tube. The best option is if the toilet drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to consider that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.
Toilet installation - cuff
To enter water, you need a flexible long enough hose connecting the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters in order to match the hose with two suitable fittings. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a 1/8” pipe.
We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe
If the drain is securely connected, you can begin to fix the plumbing.

We fix on the floor: 3 types of fasteners

You can fix the toilet with a wall tank without screws, for one resin. True, with this method of fastening, it is first necessary to clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using "epoxy" it is important to allow freshly installed plumbing to dry properly and gain a foothold on the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

Wall hung toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. The cistern and pipes of the toilet in this case are behind a false plasterboard wall. If the mounted plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe should be inside the wall. The same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame will hold the structure.

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, it remains only to assemble the toilet bowl. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe is connected to it from a tank hung on the wall.

It remains only to check if the toilet is working, and if there are any leaks. We turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. Rinse and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you, for sure, can already handle it yourself.

Before buying plumbing, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in the toilet that has worked out. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet bowl to the type of outlet that is not suitable for it.
Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet bowl for the final moment of repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly streaks and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Today it is difficult to imagine a bathroom without such an important and necessary plumbing fixture as a toilet. A lot of people have already had to install it, or at least watch how a professional does it. If this work is just ahead of you, then you should familiarize yourself with all the subtleties and find out the technology for proper installation. It is also very important to know what you need for - what materials and fixtures you may need. How well you prepare will determine the final result and the life of the device.

Required materials for installing a toilet

At first, it may seem that installing a toilet bowl to communications is a fairly simple process that anyone can perform. However, it is very easy to make a mistake in this case, which can be costly. If you do not read the instructions and act inattentively, the equipment may be damaged. Under no circumstances should this be allowed. Let's take a closer look at what tools and materials you will need in your work:

Corrugated pipe, which is used to connect the toilet to the sewer.
Flexible hose of a certain length. Through it, cold water will be supplied to the tank.
Ball valve, with which the water supply will be regulated.
Sealant with silicone. They process all joints and connections.
Sealing tape, necessary for the tightness of the inlet pipe of the water supply, in case there is an internal thread.
Cement for leveling floors in the bathroom, if necessary.
Fasteners for the toilet, which, most often, comes with the product. It usually comes with bolts, plastic dowels, spacers and bolt caps, as well as screws.

If the toilet package does not include all these devices, they will need to be purchased independently.

List of tools for plumbing installation

But the installation of a toilet on a tile cannot be done without the following tools:

Perforator or drill;
Drills of two types - for concrete and for ceramics;
Adjustable wrench, which is used to install the hose;
Core for chips on ceramic tiles, it will reduce the slip of the drill;
Hammer for driving dowels;
Rubber spatula to remove excess silicone sealant;
Pencil, which will have to outline the contour of the base of the toilet, as well as mark the places where the bolts are attached;
Screwdriver with which you will tighten the fasteners.

If you are not just installing a new toilet, but making a replacement, you will also have to dismantle the old device. And in this case, it may also be necessary to level the damaged floor surface. Be that as it may, before starting work, be sure to disconnect the plumbing device from the water supply system.

How is the toilet installed?

After all the finishing work has been completed, and the floor surface has been leveled, proceed with the installation. In order to connect the plumbing device to the sewer system, a corrugated pipe is needed. One end of it is put on the toilet drain pipe, and the other end is put on the sewer outlet pipe.

Well, if the pipe outlet coincides with the drain, then you can do without a corrugated pipe. Here the connecting element is a rubber seal with a border. If you want to use a sealant, then in no case cement the place where the drain goes into the sewer.

How to ensure the flow of water to the drain tank? You will need a flexible hose. It is screwed onto a water tap that supplies water to the inlet of the tank. Then you need to make sure that the diameter of the fasteners on both ends of the hose is the same.

While the connection is made, you can begin to mount the device to the floor or to the wall. It depends on the type of plumbing device. Of course, the toilet must first be assembled. When the base is securely mounted on the floor, a tank is attached to it and a pipe is connected from the hanging tank, which is fixed to the wall.

After these works are completed, you need to test the operation of the device, as well as set up the tank. To do this, turn on the water, which should fill the tank. By adjusting the float, adjust the water level you need. Then water can be constantly recruited in a certain amount. Attach the lid. To do this, in the upper region of the bowl, on the side that is from the wall, fasteners are mounted in the holes provided by the manufacturer.

Features and methods of attaching the toilet

Now we know what is needed to install a toilet bowl and it is time to consider the process of installing a plumbing fixture in its rightful place. There are three main ways to mount the toilet to the floor:

Fastening with dowels or anchors, which are poured into the screed;
Mounting on a wooden base, which was mounted in a screed using screws;
Fixing to the floor with epoxy resin.

Professionals give the following tips for installing a toilet in all these cases. Consider the option of fastening with anchor bolts, as well as on a wooden base. It is very convenient if at the same time a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom is being carried out. Then these two procedures can be combined while the screed will be formed on the floor.

In the place where the device should be placed and its fastening is supposed, anchors are placed. Above the surface of the screed, they should protrude 5-6 cm. It will be better if you have to cut off the excess than the length of the anchors is not enough. Then it will not be possible to fix the nut on it.

A wooden stand must fully comply with the size and shape of the base. Following a checkerboard pattern, nails are hammered into it over the entire area. They should come out from the back. Now the board can be turned over and installed where the toilet will be.

The screed is poured with concrete so that only the outer side of the stand is visible on the surface. The toilet bowl is placed on the substrate and screws are inserted into the holes. If you need to fix the toilet on a tiled floor, then resort to the following technique. To prevent cracking of the tile, rubber washers are put on the dowels and anchors. It will also help with unaesthetic rust stains on the floor. Anchors or bolts are best chosen with a nickel-plated finish. In this case, it will be easy for you to remove the fasteners when they fail and need to be replaced.

If you do not change the tiled floor, and there is no way to mount the device in a screed, then what is required to install the toilet in this case? It would be ideal to install on dowels, or on epoxy. In this case, the coating will not be damaged.

In order to use dowels, you must first make holes through the tile and screed, where you screw in the screws. To ensure that the waterproofing of the floor is not broken, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the holes. If the screed is too thin, you need to pour a little sealant on silicone into these holes. It is better that the screws are “dressed” in rubber washers, then they will not scratch the floor during the tightening process.

It is better if the base of the toilet and the floor are separated by a layer of sealant. It must be applied before the bolts are tightened. If you do not want to use any fasteners, then resin will help you out. Also, this method is suitable if the installation will be done on the wall.

Before applying the resin, the floor must be cleaned with sandpaper. This will make the surface rough and help the two surfaces bond better. The adhesive base is applied to the toilet and on the floor with a thin layer, just a couple of millimeters. Do not touch the toilet until the resin is completely dry.

Installing a wall hung toilet

Recently, it has been gaining more and more popularity. It is easy to install with your own hands. The advantage of this installation can be considered that there are no unaesthetic marks from the fasteners and, in general, any traces on the floor. The toilet bowl is mounted on a frame made of metal profiles. It is installed on a load-bearing wall. At the same time, the tank and pipes will easily hide behind a false plasterboard wall.

If the frame is not provided for by the design, then the toilet can also be attached directly to the wall. But then, most likely, you will have to move the sewer pipe inside the wall. The device is mounted with anchors.

Equipping modern housing with a toilet room is a traditional touch of any project. In turn, installing a toilet in a toilet is also a long-established procedure. Usually, installation is performed by default during the construction of housing.

We will tell you how to fix the toilet to the floor. Together with you, we will analyze which method of fixing plumbing is better to use if you suddenly have to change the device during operation. Taking into account our advice, you will be able to quickly and easily complete the work without involving a plumber.

A toilet bowl of any configuration, like a plumbing fixture in general, is mounted in accordance with the installation instructions. The initial installation of these plumbing fixtures (at the stage of housing construction), as a rule, is carried out by professional performers.

But in the future, already established owners of real estate often carry out the reconstruction of the toilet, in particular, they change the toilet bowl. And they do it themselves in order to save on installation services.

Users often change equipment according to personal preferences. Some of them do not know all the nuances of installation and fastening methods.

Installation of a toilet bowl with subsequent fastening to the floor of the toilet room. The initial installation of such plumbing is usually done by professional plumbers.

Self-reinstallation is not prohibited and encouraged. However, such intentions of the owner should at least be accompanied by knowledge of the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor. It would seem a banal detail of the installation procedure, but when they want to see a high-quality, reliable installation as the result, even the smallest details are important.

The nuances of installing toilets are directly related to the one chosen for installation. In everyday life, floor-mounted toilets are most often used. At the same time, most of the mounted devices have the configuration of compact products.

How to fix a compact and any other toilet to the floor of the toilet room, doing the installation yourself?

Compact model of the toilet bowl, mounted according to the scheme of fastening to the floor. In this case, the installation was done professionally. The high quality of installation and fastening of plumbing fixtures on the floor is clearly demonstrated

Approximately this result should be sought by self-taught masters.

Analysis of fastener methods

Building practice indicates at least three methods for attaching toilet bowls to the floor surface:

standard installation kit;
by using special adhesives;
by installation on cement mortar.

The standard installation kit (dowel-screw) is usually recommended for installation on an exceptionally flat floor surface.

The method, from the point of view of reliability and stability of the structure, is considered acceptable, but does not fully satisfy in all cases. Let's apply the "standard" usually to models of a compact type, having a small weight and modest dimensions.

Another way of attaching the toilet to the floor - landing on glue - provides a high level of bonding strength. But in this case, the quick dismantling of the product, if necessary, is excluded. Therefore, the method of installation on glue is used where installation involves the long-term operation of plumbing without the prospect of replacing it.

The procedure for installing and fixing the toilet bowl to the floor by planting the sole of the appliance on glue. For gluing, as a rule, special adhesive pastes and solutions are used.

Epoxy resin is often used as an adhesive. This adhesive is distinguished by high characteristics in terms of reliability and fastening strength.

Cement mortar is often considered as an alternative to standard and adhesive techniques. In fact, this method is not much different from “landing on glue”, since the cement contains an adhesive component in its composition. Meanwhile, bonding a toilet bowl to a floor with cement mortar shows a lower degree of strength compared to special purpose adhesives.

The choice of mounting method to a large extent depends on the type of base on which the installation is made. You will learn how to put it in an article that covers this issue in detail.

Technology of fastening the toilet to the floor

When referring to one or another method of attaching a home appliance to the floor, the master will need a certain set of tools.

Usually, the execution of work is carried out without much difficulty when you have at hand:

construction puncher (plus a set of drills of different diameters);
hand drill (plus drills of different diameters for ceramics);
manual mechanical press (pusher gun);
screwdrivers, locksmith keys, pliers, hammer;
tape measure, pencil, core, rubber spatulas (wide, narrow);
sandpaper (large, small).

Possible materials for the installation of plumbing:

plastic dowels (d=8-12 mm, 2-4 pieces);
screws (screws) metal (d=6-8 mm, 2-4 pieces);
gaskets under the screw head (2-4 pcs.);
glue (liquid nails, silicone, epoxy);
cement, quarry sand (at the rate of 1:2);
wooden board (thickness 20-25 mm);
sheet rubber (thickness 10-15 mm).

Installing a toilet bowl and fixing this type of plumbing to the floor with standard fasteners involves drilling holes for dowels. If the plumbing fixture is configured for fastening with two screws (screws), two holes need to be drilled. In the other case, respectively, four.

One of the methods for attaching the toilet to the floor is to fit the device onto screws (bolts, screws). This mounting option is used in practice more often than others. Usually the lion's share of all produced toilet bowls is equipped with just such fasteners.

Some difficulties are accompanied by the drilling process, when. Careless action, lack of experience, ignorance of the technology of drilling holes in ceramic tiles are the main reasons for installation failures. You need to drill ceramics with a special drill, observing the rule of light pressure and low speed of rotation of the drill.

Installation with subsequent fastening on cement mortar also has its own characteristics. Here, an important factor determining the quality of the connection is the composition of the solution. Therefore, it is recommended to adhere as accurately as possible to the established ratio of 1: 2 (M200), where the first digit is the amount of cement, the second is the amount of quarry sand.

Image gallery

Modern technology for fixing toilet bowls in a home toilet. Fastening of all elements of the toilet bowl is carried out on a special metal frame - an installation disguised in the wall

True, the "installation" - a metal structure, provides for a slightly different form of installation - suspended. That is, plumbing is not mounted with emphasis on the floor of the toilet room, but remains suspended after installation.

Plumbing fixtures are made from strong but fragile materials. Therefore, when fixing a porcelain or faience appliance with screws (bolts), it is not recommended to use maximum efforts for screeding. Be sure to use soft gaskets (silicone, rubber, plastic), placing them under the screw heads.

Fasten the toilet to the metal screws carefully, using moderate force. It is highly recommended to use soft pads under the screw heads.

If glue is used for fasteners, the quality of cleaning and degreasing of the surfaces to be glued is of great importance in achieving the strength of the connection.

When using epoxy resin, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratio of resin and solvent in the process of preparing the adhesive mass. The adhesive must be applied evenly to the surface, to prevent the formation of air cushions.

When installing the device “on taffeta”, it is advisable to choose hardwood as a material. You can use multi-layer plywood, but in any case, you should provide high-quality waterproofing for taffeta. Humid environment dramatically reduces the durability of any wood.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

One of the options for attaching a plumbing fixture to the floor is discussed in the following video:

Which method of installing toilet bowls is the best is up to the owner of the property where it is supposed to mount and fix the plumbing.

However, when choosing a technique, it is recommended to take into account the possible loads on the toilet bowl, the material of the device (faience, porcelain), as well as the design features of the toilet room. A careful approach to business will certainly help to achieve the desired result.

Want to talk about how you did the installation of the toilet with your own hands? Do you have useful information and photos on the topic of the article? Please write comments, share your impressions and ask questions in the block below.

Implementation involves: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Surface preparation for fastening; 4. Installing a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of these points are interconnected, they can be said not to be separated.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and buying a toilet

Toilets are separated:

By appointment

- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By issue

- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (to the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
— hi-tech

According to body material

– san faience
- San Porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

By installing the tank

- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
Tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally in color

Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.

Direction of outlet from the toilet

Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case, a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable, I would approach the wall by two hundred or three hundred millimeters, at least. Such situations I have met more than once, and not even two, I installed a “carriage and a small cart” for my activities. You will come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is absolutely not possible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

In case of visual detection of marriage, refuse to buy, believe me it is very disappointing, after installing the device, state puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smark.
Here, buy a flexible eyeliner (hose) to connect to a water pipe. If you do not have a faucet that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend that you purchase and install it.

toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come with a toilet bowl, I think you yourself decide which option is most suitable for you - mounted, either mounted on a toilet bowl, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the descent of water. I don’t see the point in explaining when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The economy of water consumption is evident.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, therefore it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores then work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilets, the compact can not be removed, but as it is assembled, we will send it to the trash. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks, if they are, then dismantle with caution.

We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the bell, the blows are not strong, but it’s not hell to be liberal.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this household. Sweep out the bathroom to avoid injury by fragments of faience.

Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the socket is cleaned, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet bowl.
We are aiming for the following result:

But what if we are waiting for such a - "surprise" - an additional get up? And it is necessary to remove it, well, “blood from the nose”, but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Attention

In no case do we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violation of this rule is fraught with costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow to drill freely, in this case we cut off the grinder in close proximity to the socket, but remember: cutting off the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore, we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was minted with a cable, or filled with sulfur, if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before proceeding with burning, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials in the vicinity. The video will show you how it's done:

If it doesn't help, then there's only one way to get rid of this fucking stickman: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stem at the very socket, visually find a thin place of the “remainder” and aim precisely at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, in depth. You can cut out a fragment of the type - a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then by tapping with a hammer we tear off the remaining piece from our "habitat" place. If there are further difficulties with the removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the chasing behind.

Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills to use the grinder, then here is a link to the photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Dismantling the cast-iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And we are waiting next step.

Surface preparation for mounting

The toilet was installed on a solid surface - excellent, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor, in the old days it was on it that the toilet bowl was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will deal with this issue. Remove the taffeta, clean the freed cavity. Involved tool to the side.

We knead the solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement to four parts of sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part of cement to three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, leveling it with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait until it sets, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, whether it be electric or gas, we take a baking sheet out of the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.

Broom handy? We take out the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next step.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close as possible to the sewer, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. In the meantime, consider the connection directly.
We will connect the pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or simply with water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the pipe sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet bowl as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using imagination, draw the trajectory of the alignment of the toilet bowl outlet and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving the device closer, we achieve the best comparability - actual at - the socket at an angle. Have you achieved? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without hitting the wall.
We take a tape measure and start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was set from the fitting of the pipe on the neck and there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. Everything, the connecting part is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before smearing, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut a small fragment out of it, it won’t fit in full size. If there is a place to be, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Further: we coat with sealant the cuff driven into the tee from the inside, we press the pipe, until it stops. Lubricate the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All pots are in place.

I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:

If it is impossible to do without this, then legs in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, they are reinforced and not reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints, if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

There is an instruction with the new toilet, study and complete the tank in accordance with it, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure that they are tightened, tighten if necessary. Especially do not be zealous, all the same, you are dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float stopping its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drain device (for some, it is dual-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I’ll tell you just one point: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, and so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform force.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the configuration of various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent touching of the reinforcement elements, both among themselves and with the walls of the tank.

Open the faucet and monitor the filling. The video explains how the overflow of the outlet and the float are regulated, with the help of simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float blocks the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the shutter button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible piping with inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- a toilet tank through a gasket
— bolts of fastening of a tank to a toilet bowl by means of cone laying
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with a cuff
— cuffs with a socket of a sewer tee
- toilet and pan

With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many “gurus” of plumbing installation, advise you not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with a sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or “hand-to-handling” - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when it is smeared, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its place.
So, if a leak is found from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down around the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - it's about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin trickle of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if it is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the places where the seat gasket fits are rough, smearing the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let's not talk about sad things, they were pressured, everything is in order with us. It remains only the task of fixing our toilet to the floor.

This will have to be done after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We block the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet bowl, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, we mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and fasten them. We pull without applying much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
In order to avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the place where the toilet bowl fits the floor around the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used for installation:

So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
- perforator with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder, who does not have the skills to use, we replace with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:

Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet yourself? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with, maybe it’s easier to pay a third of the cost of a pot to a plumber, and calmly drink beer yourself while watching TV ??
And then I look at the darkness of articles on the Internet, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

There were any questions, or there is something to supplement the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
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And that's all for me today, success in installation, with respect