Making a boat with your own hands from rubber, aluminum, wood, plastic bottles photo video. How to make a plywood boat with your own hands: dimensions and drawings Homemade boats for hunting and fishing

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats of various shapes and sizes in specialized stores, many are still interested in how to make a homemade plywood boat. The main reason for this interest lies, perhaps, in the indestructible craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Let it be possible to buy anything today, but in a home-made boat or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the Fisherman magazine, there is some indescribable charm.

In the article we will give some tips, using which you can quickly learn how to make boats - homemade plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade plywood mini boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out methods for their manufacture, as well as to determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but for the manufacture of small-sized boats with our own hands, we do not need anything complicated:

Plywood is the most important component. For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Separate parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from a thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
To ensure sufficient reliability of the sides, only high-quality plywood should be used for sheathing, without cracks, delaminations, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of material of the first or second grade will be higher, but then you will be sure of the safety of your boat.

Wood is used for the installation of internal struts, the design of the sides, seats etc. It is advisable to use an edged planed board made of light wood species.
The suture material is used to connect the individual parts of the skin into a single whole.. Seams can be made using a fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
Glue is needed to ensure the seams are properly sealed.. To date, masters have practically abandoned natural compositions based on casein, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and decay. It is also worth stocking up with fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, fiberglass can be used - then the entire bottom and sides will be pasted over with it.

Well, do not forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

Saw on wood.
Electric jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
Sander.
Hand tools (hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
Brushes for impregnation, varnishing and.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before starting work, we determine what kind of vessel we need. Today, on the net you can find a variety of drawings of home-made plywood boats, so nothing is impossible either in building a punt for fishing or in assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, you can do the design yourself.

True, in this case, you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat can turn out to be extremely decorative.

Having studied the available projects of home-made plywood boats, or having made our own, we transfer the contours of the main details to paper.
Using paper templates, we draw lines on plywood sheets along which frames and sheets for sheathing will be cut.
If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then it is necessary to splice them. To do this, we cut off the ends of the plywood at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself.

Having attached the beveled parts to each other, we coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called the connection "on the mustache."
At the same time, we are preparing wooden beams from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To facilitate the work on the project, you can assemble special goats from bars with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the details on these goats during the connection process, especially if you work without helpers.

Case assembly

When everything is ready, we begin work:

Using a wood saw or electric jigsaw, . The indentation from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not “converge” during stitching.
We glue the transom parts (tailgate) and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. Glued parts will be somewhat heavy, but it's not scary!
If you plan to install an outboard motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the self-tapping screws should be such that the point does not pierce the part through and through.

We install the transom on pre-made goats and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together on the bow.
We fasten the sheathing parts either with the help of suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting off the edge of the plywood at an angle.

At this stage, it is very important that all elements converge in size, since in order to reduce the gap, it will be necessary to disassemble the entire structure and partially cut the frames.

After the "rough assembly" you can start gluing.

Adhesive work

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). We mix the components in a 1:1 promotion using a nozzle on a drill. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
We strengthen the corners between the bottom, sides and transom with the help of wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
Strips of fiberglass and fiberglass are glued to all seams from the inside, carefully lubricating the joints with an epoxy-aerosol composition.

Note!
Since most adhesives contain volatile toxins, all paint work must be done with respiratory protection!

After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
To fix the frames, we use the same glue. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.

We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten the oarlocks, seats and other parts provided for by the design.
If it is planned to equip the boat with a cockpit (an enclosed space in the bow), we install a cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting until the whole structure dries, we remove the boat from the goats, turn it over and grind the outer surface. Then we process the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloring

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive outer appearance:

First, carefully degrease all the details.
Then we process the wood with impregnation. Here, the composition for sea or river vessels from Tikkurila is quite suitable.
We putty all planes, masking cracks and irregularities, and then we process it with a special primer.
You can paint homemade plywood boats with almost any paint, but if you want to ensure the ship's durability, it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden boats.

The average paint consumption is 1 - 1.5 l / m 2. It is best to apply it with a brush, but the use of an airbrush is also allowed.

Conclusion

A homemade plywood boat made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family walks, etc. Of course, it is not worth going out into the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for large rivers and lakes in our country, such a design is quite reliable. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

plywood craft

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

The most important preparatory moment in construction are the drawings of the boat. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to spend time and effort on reworking and fitting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. Transferring the drawings to paper, we will get full-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now you can “cut out” our product, and cut the blanks with an electric jigsaw. Having received all the cut parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect the supporting structural elements, the transom (aft section) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

Use epoxy and fiberglass tape to connect all parts. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having fixed the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to reinforcing the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this with the help of wooden corners, then proceed to sealing the seams.

To obtain a suture material, epoxy resin and aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Further, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the whole structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and the bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs to be processed, it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, after drying, sand the surface. Then prime and paint.

Troubleshooting in PVC inflatable boat

If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then for sure there are often moments of leakage due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult, it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and better repair in the workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat in a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, everything must be redone when returning, since a patch glued hastily and without observing the technology will not last long.

If the puncture occurred while fishing or hunting, use only the defect elimination kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

To overhaul the boat you need:

Repair kit (included in the package of the craft);
Scissors;
roller;
Pencil;
Solvent that promotes degreasing;
Adhesive brush.

Cut out a round patch from the spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Note!

Flatten the area to be repaired on a flat surface, remove dirt and degrease with a solvent. Put the patch on the hole and circle with a pencil, smear both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and allow time to dry again. After 5 minutes, restoration can begin directly. Feel the surface of the patch with your finger, it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site, a hair dryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the sticky side, and carefully expelling all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then let it dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Note!

DIY boat photo

Note!

Every professional fisherman or hunter is simply obliged to have a boat in his arsenal. At the moment, the market is overflowing with an assortment of boats of various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.

This article will provide a detailed description of how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a plywood boat

Many people wonder if it is possible to make a high-quality swimming facility on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Boats made at home have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory "brothers":

Product weight. When using plywood, the weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
The use of solid sheets will allow you to create ideal shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
Minimum final cost. It will be spent, it will only have to be spent on consumables, such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that much can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend a week and a half on this work, provided they work in their spare time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Consider the technical capabilities of the future boat in more detail.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than that of many motor boats of this class.

In order for the overestimated nose not to interfere with the view, a cut is made along the length of the bow by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the boarding or disembarking of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which nests are provided in the side of the boat.

The greatest length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Board height:

The bow is 54 centimeters.
The back is 40 cm.
The height of the stern is 45 centimeters.
Body weight twenty kilograms.
Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility to install an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one oar pair.

Drawing No. 1:

a) Bottom view.
B) Top view.
B) Transom (blanks)

Figure #2. External cladding (sheet preparation):

A) Board.
B) cheekbone.
B) bottom.

Construction materials

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of the tools you will need:

screwdriver
Manual milling machine.
Manual grinder.
Clamps.
Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
Rails are wooden.
Brass nails.
Wood screws.
Epoxy resin.
The varnish is waterproof.
Fiberglass.
Beam 50 to 3400
Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

We make a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench, and finished on the ground. You lay a keel on a workbench, to one side of which a sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side a stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for the absence of distortions and, if any, carry out an adjustment.

Adjustment can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes match, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all joints.

After the stems have been fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the frames.

At a right angle on the frames, a cutout for the keel should be made. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 mm narrower than the frame.

The landing should be checked with a tight rope, which should coincide with the beams. By setting the frames at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the keel, you can finally fix it. After all the operations done, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11 cm beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To exclude lateral distortions, the stems and transoms, as well as beams, are fastened with some kind of timber.

Frame sheathing

After that, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of plywood sheets prepared for sheathing and try on templates for the minimum amount of waste on these sheets.

The contours of natural-sized parts when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting off the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For the subsequent joining of the sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, the axes of the parts to be glued should be aligned, using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, the same parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted to each other with a planer.

Along both edges of the cheekbones at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for wire fasteners, which will subsequently be connected.

Fasten the skin should start from the bow of the boat, fastening with copper wire through the holes made along the bottom and side. The wire is twisted from the outside by two or three turns with a slight slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily fixed at the positions shown on the planking drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the transom of the boat and fix it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is such a possibility that the sides will protrude into the stern beyond the transom, in which case the edges should be trimmed with a planer.

After all the above operations have been done, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and compress everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into ribbons.

The first layer should be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers should be at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers should be offset in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire braces and glue the fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with planks to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done in this way:

The prepared planks are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After that, the blanks are laid out in places and attached to the screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked places are treated with glue and the blanks are screwed back.

After the glue dries, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes can be hammered with specially prepared nails carved from wood.

After removing the accessories, all holes in the boat's skin must be puttied with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy.

The inner part of the body is treated with hot drying oil. You can use regular oil-based paint to paint the bottom and cans of the boat.

Adhesive selection

Adhesive material in the construction of boats is used:

Epoxy resins.
Vinyl ester resins.
Resins are polyester.

Let's take a closer look at the above resins:

Epoxy resin - can be safely called a universal resin used in the manufacture of swimming facilities, has found an indispensable application in composite structures and ship repair. These resins in terms of indicators provide the highest quality of the glue line.
Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Epoxy molecules provide increased strength. Moderate shrinkage during curing, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during solidification. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost, in comparison with other types.
Polyester resins - can be safely called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The disadvantages include only what is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the plastic reinforcement process.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly the key to making a quality boat.

Not everyone can buy a finished boat, because the prices are very biting. In addition, not all designs meet the needs of different customers. If you take inflatable boats, then these are not very reliable models, since they can easily be damaged in difficult conditions. And this means that they are not very reliable. In such cases, a decision is made to make a boat with your own hands from plywood. The construction of a small boat begins with sketches, which are then transformed into very professional drawings.

This is a fascinating process and only those fishermen who are in constant creative search can do it. In addition, building a boat is like a factor of self-affirmation. But if you look at the process seriously, then there is nothing complicated.

A small boat, which is able to take on board 2-3 fishermen, which does not have a lot of weight, can be easily made from plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move both with the help of oars, and with the help of a boat motor or a sail. This does not require special, professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is a strong enough material to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is simply amenable to processing, using electrical or manual devices.

In addition, if a motor is installed on such a boat, then it can develop a solid speed with good running characteristics. In addition, a plywood boat is much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to choose an appropriate room for mercy, where the boat could freely accommodate. It is desirable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, hardly anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you already need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain optimal temperature conditions. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity should be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

drawing accessories;
pencils;
gum;
patterns;
rulers and triangles;
T-square;
cardboard and drawing paper;
glue for paper;
calculator.

During the construction phase you will need:

jigsaw;
hammer;
axe;
clamps (up to 10 pieces, no less);
brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
screwdriver;
electric and manual planer;
screwdrivers;
chisels;
stapler;
circular and hand saw.

Materials for the manufacture can serve as:

plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), 4-5 mm thick;
pine or oak boards;
fiberglass for pasting the hull of the boat;
putty for sealing cracks;
waterproof glue;
drying oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
oil paint or waterproof enamel;
nails, screws, self-tapping screws;
metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

The main dimensions of the boat

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then its dimensions will be optimal:

The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What is the boat made of?

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as a base and to which other elements of the boat are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and on the reverse side is the sternpost. With the help of these components, the boat is given longitudinal rigidity. Such structural details can be made from a single piece of wood or individual components connected by gluing, as well as knocked down with nails or twisted with screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse power elements, which are called frames. The boards connected to the frames, stem and stern, form the sides of the boat.

If this frame is sheathed with plywood, then you get a boat. A deck is laid inside the boat - a sleigh, which is the lower deck, to protect the bottom of the boat.

Motor boats made of plywood

Motorized boats do not differ much in their design considerations compared to boats designed to move under oars or under sail. The difference lies only in the organization of a place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Separate designs of small boats are also equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and unsinkability, special gaps are provided in the craft, which are filled with mounting foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of flooding the boat if it capsizes.

Working drawings of the boat

All boat building work begins with blueprints, which must be professionally drawn up. If this is not possible, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the main imaginations. But here, too, you need to be careful not to miss the main stages of assembling the boat and making additional components.

As a rule, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the nodes of the structure.

A large sketch of the drawing can be drawn according to the following algorithm:

A line is drawn that conditionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and exactly the same.
The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these areas.
Both a vertical display and a projection from above are drawn.
According to the transverse marks, the shapes of the frames are drawn.
The main dimensions of all components on the scale are checked.
The shape of the frames is drawn on a scale of 1: 1 on cardboard or thick paper.
The flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or template.

The resulting pattern is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must repeat each other flawlessly.

Transferring a pattern to a piece of wood

After the next check of the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and stiff paper will facilitate the stage of transferring drawings to blanks. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and contours exactly as it is drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying patterns, the direction of the wood fibers should be taken into account. In this case, it all depends on the design of the elements of the boat. If the element is made of plywood, then the layers of plywood themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for the manufacture of futoks, they can be made larger in height, since they can then be cut off.

Technological stages of manufacture

To build a plywood boat with your own hands, you need to do the following steps:

transfer the drawing to the template;
transfer drawings from templates to wood;
install the keel and secure the stem;
fix the frames;
fix the stern post and transom board (for the motor);
sheathe the bottom with plywood;
sheathe the sides;
seal joints and stringers;
putty and paint the hull of the boat.

boat hull

The skeleton of the boat and its hull are assembled from prefabricated parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames to the keel are first attached in advance, and only after the next control are they finally fixed. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before sheathing it with plywood.

We collect the inner contour of the futoks

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how reliable the fastening of the futoks is. Futoks are an integral part of the design of the frame, which consists of a floor timber and two futoks.

Floortimber is the lower part of the frame, which is designed to be attached to the keel. Futoks are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. The futox and floortimber fastening points are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft, where engines will be installed, which increase the load on the structure as a whole and during movement in particular.

stem material

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. One of the most suitable materials for its manufacture can be oak, but, in extreme cases, you can use elm.

You will be lucky if you can find a piece of a suitable tree that has a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make a stem from individual elements by gluing. If you want to have a one-piece structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools, and cut it down according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of the boat structure, and is a typical board, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

side boards

To do this, choose healthy, even and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Transom manufacturing

The transom is designed to mount the outboard motor. The transom board should be 25mm thick. If plywood is used, then it is better to glue several layers in order to end up with a suitable thickness (20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness must not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced from above with a wooden bar. In this case, it all depends on the method of mounting the outboard motor.

Making a boat frame

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

the keel is installed;
pins are installed;
places of installation of frames are marked;
installation of frames;
fastening of frames, stems and transom to side boards;
checking the correct installation of all elements, before their final fastening;
it is desirable to treat the joints of structural elements with a waterproof composition or drying oil.

Plywood boat sheathing

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the hull of the boat.

Subsequently:

the frame of the boat capsizes upside down;
all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated with emery cloth and made absolutely smooth;
the details of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and fixed with a stapler, after which the attachment points are pierced with nails;
the side skin elements are first tried on, and then fixed in the same way as when attaching the bottom;
when gluing blanks, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be located along, not across the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining a solid structure, and, if necessary, filling seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints of the workpiece with the keel and frames are glued. After piercing with nails, the areas where the plywood is connected to the load-bearing elements are filled with glue if they do not fit snugly.

To improve the strength and driving performance of the craft, plywood sheathing is glued with fiberglass. Such protection of the wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass is evenly distributed over the plane of the sheathing, with no creases or blistering, which indicates poor workmanship. The fabric is glued from the keel, towards the side boards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat dries well, proceed to the next stage - puttying and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are perfect. The boat is painted in two stages: first a primer layer is applied, and then one or two layers of paint.

Registration of a boat

To register a boat of your own manufacture, you must submit the following documents to the State Inspectorate for Small Vessels:

the passport;
individual taxpayer number;
the Certificate of primary technical examination of the floating craft approved and signed by the inspector with a conclusion on its suitability for operation;
payment receipts for materials that were used in the construction process;
receipts for payment of state duty for registration;

The boat coolly expands the possibilities of the angler! This is a generally recognized fact, and here we will not arrange long disputes. Another question, ? It is clear that, depending on the conditions, boats of different designs will be relevant. Also, you can buy a boat, or you can do it yourself. About what are homemade boats, about their advantages and disadvantages, about the feasibility of self-manufacturing a fishing boat - in this post.

Industrial boats are: inflatable (rubber, PVC) and rigid, usually clumsy (plastic, wood, duralumin). And what about homemade boats?

Make your own boat- it's not an easy task. They are engaged in independent boat building, if there is stubbornly no money; if this is a remote region and there is nowhere to buy; if your hands are itching to do something, well, for example, a boat ... In all other situations, it's easier to just buy a suitable boat. Small inflatable - for small ponds and lakes; medium inflatable for medium lakes and rivers; hard plastic or a whole boat, if there is something to carry and catch, it is planned to use large expanses of a river, reservoir or sea.

I saw several designs of homemade boats, and I'll tell you about them.

1. Rigid homemade boat made of plywood and wood. These are small boats, usually for fishing on small ponds and lakes. One-and-a-half-seater (if you do more, it will be too heavy). The contours are quite straight. Such a boat is carried on the “crown”, the upper trunk of a car.

The frame and skin of the boat is assembled on self-tapping screws. The outer surface, sides and bottom are dried, primed, painted.

A plywood boat can be made in a wide variety of forms. Clumsy rectangular shapes can, with skills, be made smoother, more boat-like.

The clumsy wooden boat shown in the drawing can also be folded, with a bottom made of rubberized fabric. The sides are hard, the bottom is soft. Make all cross braces removable. It will look something like this.

It is clear that such a boat will be more compact, and if necessary, it can be folded.

2. Homemade boat made of duralumin. In principle, the same thing, only the hull of the boat is made of sheet duralumin. Joints are welded by argon welding.

3. The most interesting, in my opinion - folding duralumin boat. This is used by one living in the neighborhood, a spinning player.

Only 6 duralumin parts: bottom - 2 parts; each side - 2 parts. The elements are fastened with an elastic, firmly rubberized fabric. The fabric is fastened to the duralumin with a number of rivets, through an overlay.

1 - detail board (bottom); 2 - a strip of rubberized fabric; 3 - duralumin lining; 4 - rivets.

My neighbor's boat is not completely disassembled. He only removes the struts and folds the sides inward. If desired, you can also bend the structure across. And so, he puts the boat on the top trunk of the car and tightens it with rubber bands. It comes out pretty compact.

The transverse struts of such a boat are: a hard seat with a cushion and two wooden struts, the ends of which are protected by pieces of aluminum tubes that are inserted into special holes on the inner sides of the sides. Before fishing, the spacers and the seat are inserted into place, providing rigidity to the structure.

Such homemade boat comfortable, because the bottom is hard - it's good to sit. The boards are not afraid of hooks and snags ... Of the shortcomings, only some instability can be called. Those. it is extremely difficult to turn over an inflatable boat, and even if scooped up, it will remain afloat. In such a duralumin, one must behave cautiously, avoid sudden maneuvers. In other words, my neighbor has been spinning from such a boat for many years and claims that it is more convenient than any inflatable one. I agree with him in many respects.

In addition, such a boat is going faster than an inflatable one. There is nothing to download here.