Garden rhododendron: planting and caring for shrubs in the open field. Planting rhododendrons in spring and autumn: care and cultivation in the open field Rhododendron planting and care

In a spring garden, it is difficult to find shrubs that bloom more effectively than rhododendrons. While these are very popular and beloved plants, they are not the easiest to grow.

Find out how planting and caring for rhododendrons in the open field is carried out, what are their requirements for soil, watering, fertilizers.

Description of the plant, types and varieties

Rhododendrons (Rhododendron) are a genus of plants from the heather family (Ercicaceae). It includes several hundred species and thousands of varieties and hybrids, which can be divided into 2 groups:

• evergreens - with leathery leaves, called rhododendrons;
• deciduous - with soft, slightly pubescent leaves that fall in winter, called azaleas.

Beautiful, large, multi-colored flowers of rhododendrons, appear on the stems from early spring, bloom until early summer and resemble magnificent bouquets of roses. Therefore, the plant got its name - Rhododendron, where rhon is a rose, dendron is a tree. In Greek, the plant's name means rosewood.

Garden rhododendron can be grown in almost any garden, matching the size of the shrub to the landscape:

• impressive shrubs reaching heights of 4-5 meters;
• small shrubs, not exceeding 50 cm in height.

Due to their wide variety, rhododendrons are divided into several groups, the most popular of which is shrubby, classified as large flowering rhododendrons. Plants are characterized by large size, huge, numerous, colorful inflorescences. The flowers of these varieties can be found in many color combinations:

• white,
• shades of pink,
• red,
• purple,
• orange,
• yellow.

The following shrubs deserve attention:

Russian name for rhododendron	Latin name	Photo
Yakushimansky	Rhododendron yakushimanum
Giant	R.maximum
Purple or Katevbinsky	R.catawbiense
Pontic	R.ponticum
Large-leaved	R. macrophyllum
Short-fruited	R. brachycarpum

When deciding to grow a "rose tree", it is worth remembering that this type also includes close relatives:

1. azaleas;
2. japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron obtusum).

They are lower, more compact, have smaller, softer, seasonal or semi-evergreen leaves, frost tolerant. Unlike rhododendrons, azaleas require a more sunny position.

Growing and caring for rhododendron

Landing place

The success of the cultivation of rhododendron in the garden largely depends on the choice of the correct position, providing the plant with conditions close to natural.

The requirements for the site of the plant are quite high:

1. Evergreen foliage makes shrubs susceptible to low temperatures and physiological drought.
2. You need to choose a semi-shaded place, protected from the wind, with high humidity. This can be achieved by planting a rhododendron next to larger groups of shrubs to create a decorative backdrop.
3. Tall trees will also be great company. Since the roots of the shrub grow superficially in the plane of the topsoil, it is better to plant the rhododendron near trees with roots growing deep in the ground, such as an oak tree.
4. Since the plant occurs naturally in regions with high humidity, comfortable conditions help to create the surroundings of small ponds and streams.

Soil requirements

Rhododendrons, like all heather plants, are demanding on the soil. It is necessary to provide a soil with the following characteristics:

1. high organic matter content;
2. acidic pH (in the range of 4.5-5.5) - although varieties are available that are more resistant to elevated soil pH or grafted on a rootstock less vulnerable to improper pH conditions, they will grow better in any soil.

Unfortunately, in most gardens, the soil is not suitable for acidity, so before planting the bushes, they must be properly prepared.

To increase the acidity of the soil, you need to prepare the substrate before planting:

1. dig a hole 1-1.5 meters wide, 1 meter deep;
2. fill the pit with a mixture of sour peat, leafy soil and compost pine bark in proportions 2: 1: 0.5.

If it is not possible to prepare your own rhododendron planting substrate, you can fill the pit with ready-made heather mixture available in every garden center. A shrub is planted in this prepared substrate, watered heavily and the hole is filled with the rest of the soil.

Mycorrhiza for rhododendron

When planting a plant, it is worth noting that maintaining a sufficiently acidic soil can be difficult. Therefore, it is worth using the phenomenon of mycorrhiza.

Mycorrhiza is a mutually beneficial coexistence of plants and specific symbiotic fungi that are in direct contact with plant roots. Garden mycorrhiza can be introduced with special mycorrhizal additives to the heather plant substrate.

In the case of acidophilic plants, including the rhododendron flower, mycorrhiza produces sensational results. It is enough to prepare suitable substrate additives for heather, rhododendron, magnolia or blueberry. The soil can be acidified in the traditional way by mixing with peat. But acidification of the soil, done with peat, is short-lived.

Meanwhile, thanks to the use of mycorrhizal additive, the effect lasts for many years, and rhododendrons will be beautiful even with unfavorable soil pH.

Fertilizer

Healthy shrub development requires proper fertilization. Fertilization begins in April and ends in mid-July. You can use multicomponent mineral fertilizers or special balanced fertilizer complexes for rhododendrons. Since plants cannot tolerate too much soil salinity, they cannot be fertilized “in reserve”. Top dressing should be even, in small doses. Before using the fertilizer, the litter is removed from under the bushes, after application, it is laid out again.

Cheap fertilizers

Of the cheapest fertilizers for rhododendrons, the following are worth recommending:

1. ammonium sulfate - applied in the spring-summer period, this is a nitrogen fertilizer that acidifies the soil;
2. potassium sulfate - suitable as an autumn fertilizer, it also acidifies the soil, the drug is rich in potassium, which makes it easier to prepare plants for winter.

These are the cheapest solutions, but not always optimal. Often such dressings are not enough and a special fertilizer for rhododendrons with trace elements is required.

Signs of missing items

Rhododendrons need a certain amount of macro- and microelements for proper development, their shortage quickly manifests itself in the form of various problems seen on plants:

• weak flowering;
• browning of leaves;
• slight coloration and discoloration of leaves.

Signs of lack of certain elements

Therefore, for fertilization, it is worth choosing special formulations for rhododendrons, containing all the necessary macro- and microelements, selected in appropriate proportions.

If symptoms of nutrient deficiency are noticed on shrubs, soil pH should be measured. This can be done with any pH meter. Simple and inexpensive pH testers are available at garden stores.

Based on the measurement results, conclusions are drawn:

• If the soil pH is more than 6, it is necessary to acidify the soil, because if the pH is too high, the rhododendrons cannot take some nutrients from the soil.
• If the pH is satisfactory, it is worth using an auxiliary fertilizer for rhododendrons, which, after dissolving in water, can be used for watering and spraying the foliage. As a result, the fertilizer ingredients are very efficiently transported to plant tissues, which quickly gives visible results and improves growth.

Weed removal

Caring for the plant involves regularly removing weeds until they intertwine the roots of the bush, otherwise removing them will injure the bush. Choose the smallest one because the roots of the bush are located high to the soil surface. It is allowed to use a thin hoe.

Pruning

Rhododendron requires proper pruning:

Removal of faded inflorescences

After flowering, you need to cut off the faded inflorescences. You need to gently break them off with your hand, being careful not to damage the formation of new buds. If the inflorescence is not removed, it will slow down growth. Due to the removal of inflorescences, the shrub will not waste energy on planting seeds, giving energy to the development of new flower and leaf buds. The bush will bloom more abundantly next year.

Important! The inflorescences do not need to be cut, it is necessary to break off them, imitating natural fall.

Winter care

An evergreen shrub easily tolerates frost. On sunny or windy days, the leaves evaporate a lot of water, which the plant cannot take from the frozen soil. Therefore, shrubs should be protected with spruce branches or by creating protective fences around large shrubs made of nonwovens or film.

Also cover the base at the base of the bush to protect the root collar from frost. The best protection against frost is snow. If the winter is snowless and cold, the soil around the shrub is covered with:

• leaves,
• bark,
• peat.

If, during long periods of frost, the leaves curl, the bushes take on an unhealthy appearance - this is a sign of a lack of water in the soil. In the next thaw, when the ground thaws, you need to water the shrub abundantly. Watering can be carried out preventively in late autumn, at the last moment before the onset of winter.

Autumn care - how to protect rhododendrons for the winter?

Evergreens adorn gardens all year round, but you need to protect them for the winter, because unpleasant consequences can manifest themselves in the spring. It is important to know how to protect rhododendrons for the winter in order to get lush green leaves and many beautiful flowers in the spring. If the winter is cold, last year's flower buds and growth buds may freeze, the bushes will not bloom.

Frost resistance of shrubs

The frost resistance of the shrub varies depending on the variety. The most frost-resistant varieties and varieties of rhododendron:

• Azores azalea (Rhododendron catawbiense);
• finnish varieties - Haaga (Haaga) and Helsinki (Hellikki).

All other varieties need to be covered in winter in the first years of cultivation.

Deciduous rhododendrons are less sensitive to frost. Japanese rhododendrons (Rhododendron japonicum) need to be covered, they are sensitive to low temperatures.

The need to protect rhododendrons for the winter depends on the site conditions:

• shrubs winter better in shady, warm, sheltered places;
• shelter is necessary in sunny and windy places.

Hilling

Shrubs often dry out in winter. The first symptom is falling and curling main leaves. The reason for the phenomenon is the lack of available water on cold days. This condition is exacerbated by sunny weather, when plants lose water during evaporation and cannot replenish it because the surface layers of the soil, together with the water contained in it, are frozen.

Photo. Rolled leaves in winter mean the plant is short of water.

To prevent drying out, you need to protect the shrub from lack of water with abundant watering in late autumn, shortly before the onset of frost. At the foot of the bush, a mound of pine bark or peat is created. Pine bark, in addition to reducing the evaporation of water in the soil, also protects the rhododendron root system from freezing. The heap of the embankment should be 20 cm high.

Protection with agrotextiles

A popular, effective plant protection material is agrotextile, which allows water, air to pass through and protects shrubs from:

• low temperatures;
• cold wind.

It is necessary to wrap the bush 2-3 times and tie the cord to the base so that the material does not slip off during the winds, covering the plant from all sides.

Shelter by branches

Another great way to protect rhododendrons for the winter is to cover them with coniferous branches. It is enough to cover the base of the bush with spruce branches. This protects the roots from low temperatures, and the snow that remains on the branches looks very natural.

Diseases

Caring for rhododendrons requires providing plants with proper development conditions. Wrong position, lack of proper care can lead to dangerous diseases. Observing pink trees will allow early detection of disease symptoms.

Diseases, pests and improper care become common reasons why the rhododendron does not bloom, the leaves turn yellow, brown.

Phytophthora

Signs of lesion by late blight:

• First, dark spots appear at the bottom of the stem - pathological changes occur under the bark layer, the tissue acquires a brownish-red color.
• Rot progresses rapidly, the leaves turn gray, twisted, the plant dies.

The disease mainly affects the roots, so the gardener does not notice major changes. The plant ceases to collect enough mineral salts and water.

The disease is caused by fungi of the Phytophthora species, which develop in humid, warm conditions at temperatures above +20 degrees Celsius. There is no effective drug that will save rhododendron. The infected plant should be removed and burned; azaleas, rhododendrons should not be planted in its place for several years.

Lingonberry exobasidium

The deformation of the plant is caused by the fungus Exobasidium vaccinii.

Symptoms:

• hard growths appear on the leaves;
• the trunk is distorted;
• the growth of buds is greatly inhibited.

This rhododendron disease is favored by:

• temperatures above +10 degrees Celsius,
• wet air.

Control measures:

1. it is necessary to remove and burn the affected parts of the bush;
2. the plant is treated with a suitable natural or chemical antifungal preparation:
   • in the spring, before the appearance of the buds, spray Biosept Active (concentration 0.1%);
   • when the temperature rises above 18 ° C, the bushes are treated with Topsin M 500 SC (concentration 0.1%), the treatment is carried out twice after 7-10 days;
   • in amateur cultivation, you can use a convenient and easy-to-use ready-made preparation Baymat Ultra 0.015 AE.

Gray mold

• The reasons. The disease appears in conditions of high humidity, at a high temperature of +20 +30 degrees Celsius.
• Prevention. To avoid disease, provide space around the plants with free air circulation.
• Effects. Mold causes the death of flower buds and flower deformation.
• Control measures. To combat the disease, it is necessary to spray with an appropriate fungicide, for example Topsin 2-3 times after 7 days.

Physiological diseases

A deficiency or excess of certain minerals can lead to leaf discoloration:

• when nitrogen deficiency is observed, the plant does not develop well, the leaves fall off;
• with an excess of potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, the absorption of other nutrients from the soil is blocked, which affects the condition of the leaves.

If the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the bush is chlorositic. Chlorosis is caused by a lack of iron, or inappropriate acidity. It is necessary to maintain the acidic state of the soil.

Pests

During the growing season, pests attack the shrub, causing numerous damage - spots, holes in the leaves, discoloration, distortion of shoots and leaves. We will tell you how to deal with pests of rhododendrons, how to prevent their appearance.

Pests that make holes in the leaves

Single skosar

Holes at the edges of the leaves, yellowing, drying out of the bushes are signs of the appearance of Solitary Skosar. Black adults, 8-11 mm long, damage rhododendron leaves in May-June. Beetles feed at night, during the day they hide in the ground. Females lay eggs in the ground, from which larvae hatch, damaging the roots. Skosar attacks other garden plants with fleshy leaves, like rhododendron.

Control measures: after removing damaged leaves, late in the evening the plants are sprayed with Fastac 100 EC insecticide (at a concentration of 0.02%). It is important to control the beetles before they lay their eggs, the control of the larvae is difficult, often ineffective.

Pear bug

Signs of an attack by a pear bug (Stephanitis oberti):

• yellow, mosaic spots on the upper side of the leaves;
• dark waste that resembles resin appears under the leaves;
• the eggs of the pest hibernate on the underside of the leaves; at the end, wingless larvae appear in yellowish-brown color.

Adults appear in July.

Bedbug-infected rhododendrons are sprayed with drugs of your choice:

• Decis 2.5 EC (concentration 0.05%);
• Sumi-alpha 050 EC (concentration 0.04%).

The treatment of the plant from the bug must be repeated.

Pests causing yellowing of leaves

Some pests cause yellowing of the leaves, which can easily be mistaken for disease symptoms.

Whitefly

The sticky, yellowed leaves of rhododendrons may indicate that the plant has been attacked by a whitefly. Around the bushes in May-June, small white butterflies are visible - insects 1.2 mm long, bright yellow, with white wings. The females lay eggs on the underside of the leaves, then the greenish-yellow larvae hatch, releasing large amounts of nectar on which the fungi grow, forming a black coating on the leaves.

Control measures. After the whitefly is found from June to July (adults feed the larvae), the infected plants are treated 2 times with an interval of 14 days with Provado Plus AE insecticide.

Aphid

In spring, aphids form large colonies on the youngest, growing leaves. The insect sucks out plant juices, strongly inhibiting the growth of young shoots, distorting the leaves, polluting them with honeydew and numerous white cuts.

Preventive measures: preventively, you can treat the plant with a solution of potassium soap with the aroma of garlic.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

Rhododendrons and azaleas growing in the garden can reproduce by layering. This is a relatively simple method, but requires patience. In the spring or in August, you need to dig a groove 15-20 cm deep near the bush, bend one of the branches into the groove and sprinkle it with earth. You can slightly damage the bark on the side of the shoot that will be underground. The cuttings usually take root after 2 years.

Scheme. plant propagation by layering

Propagation by cuttings

The distribution of rhododendron from annual cuttings consists in obtaining new plants from leaf shoots and planting them in a mixture of peat and sand. The seedling is prepared in the second half of August or early September in a greenhouse at a temperature of 11 degrees Celsius. Plants will take root in 2-4 months.

How to plant a rhododendron?

Landing dates

The best time to plant rhododendrons is in spring, although shrubs purchased in containers can be planted during the growing season.

Wet or dry place?

If the soil is light, permeable, there may be a shortage of water, you need to regularly water the bushes with soft water, preferably rainwater. It is a great idea to cover the ground around the bush with a layer of mulch. Pine bark is ideal as it acidifies the soil. Thanks to mulching, the soil dries out more slowly in summer, better tolerates cold in winter.

More dangerous than the lack of water, its excess, occurring on heavy, impervious soils. Stagnant water leads to stifling of plant root development. In this situation, it is worth taking a number of measures:

1. plant shrubs on a gentle slope;
2. make drainage;
3. prepare a rabatka in the form of a mound surrounded by tree trunks or stones.

Where to plant rhododendrons?

Well-groomed and grown in suitable conditions, rhododendrons create an unusual, colorful sight in the garden every spring. Shrubs can be planted in different ways:

1. individually;
2. make up decorative groups with other plants;
3. create unformed hedges.

Given that the rhododendron does not like pruning, at the beginning of cultivation, you should allocate as much space to the bushes as the variety requires so that neighboring plants do not grow too much and do not shade each other.

Against the background of tall varieties, it is worth planning to plant low plants, because over time, the lower parts of the shrubs can become bare. This role will be perfectly handled by:

• heather plants;
• larch;
• podbelya ordinary;
• haulteria.

Rhododendrons can be combined with larger heather plants such as broadleaf calmias, pieris.

Landing - step by step

Planting a rhododendron requires a shallow root position, planting too deep robs the plant of nutrient assimilation. The root system of the shrub requires protection in winter with a layer of leaves, peat, soil. If the winters are dry, the gardener's calendar should include watering the rhododendron.

Planting on different soils

The clay soil is very fertile and rich in the ingredients needed for a rhododendron. However, if you plant the root deep in such soil, the plant weakens. The problem is the poor permeability of clay soils for air and water. Rhododendron roots need fresh air, cannot stand in water.

When placing a rhododendron in heavy soils, it is important to plant it correctly. When planting on heavy soils, a bush should be placed so that excess moisture can drain off quickly. The problem does not occur on sandy soils.

To improve the drainage of the root system of a rhododendron seedling, it is not planted directly in the clay, but in a small cavity. Below are 2 easy ways to plant a rhododendron.

The proposed planting methods can be used in other cases:

• on alkaline soils;
• on soils with very low acidity (if the pH is above 6.0);
• under trees with aggressive roots.

After planting, rhododendrons need watering and supervision.

How to transplant a rhododendron?

Sometimes the plants grow densely, or other reasons arise and a rhododendron transplant is necessary.

The shrub can be replanted at any time, except for frost. The plant can be transplanted even during the flowering period when the leaves are in active growth. Care must be taken, during the growing season, the shrub is sensitive to any mistakes during transplantation.

Rhododendrons are best transplanted in early spring or autumn when there is no active leaf growth. Autumn is considered the best time.

The plant is large, from 70 cm to 2 meters in size, it is more difficult to transplant. However, rhododendrons are easy to transplant because they have compact, shallow roots. A two-meter rhododendron can have a root diameter of 100 cm.

Stages of work

Attention! In a new place, we plant a bush 2-3 cm higher than in the old one. By no means deeper!

Rhododendron flowers are considered popular and interesting plants that adorn any garden. They belong to the genus of deciduous or semi-deciduous trees and shrubs. They are part of the Heather family. The literal translation of the name of this plant is a rose tree, since the inflorescences really resemble unique and attractive roses in appearance.

Rhododendrons

Note! Rhododendron flowers can vary significantly in size and shape, as well as in color, which allows you to choose the optimal type of plant for each grower.

Description of rhododendron

Rhododendrons grow naturally in Japan and the Himalayas, and are also found in North America and southern China. They often grow on the coast of different seas, rivers or oceans.

The features of garden rhododendrons include:

• is a shrub equipped with leaves of different configuration and dimensions, and shrubs can be annuals, biennials or perennials;
• sessile or petiolate, as well as serrate or ovoid leaves are found;
• rhododendron is incredibly popular due to the attractive appearance of the leaves, but flowers with white, pink, purple or red tints are considered the most beautiful;
• flowers are collected in brushes or shields, so they form rather large bouquets, striking in their decorativeness and sophistication;
• rhododendron flowers can have a different shape, which completely depends on the variety and type of plant, so they can be funnel-shaped or tubular, bell-shaped or wheel-shaped;
• in many varieties, flowers have a unique pleasant aroma;
• the fruit is five-leafed capsules, which contain many seeds;
• rhododendron seeds do not exceed 2 mm in length;
• the root system of the plant is compact;
• the roots are located on the surface of the earth, so transplanting a rhododendron is an easy and quick job.

Note! This flower is in demand in the territories where beekeeping apiaries are arranged, since the rhododendron is an early spring honey plant.

Types and varieties of rhododendron

There are a huge number of different types of rhododendron, but the most popular are:

• Daurskyrhododendron. It occurs naturally near coniferous forests or on rocks. It is represented by an evergreen shrub with significant branching and medium height. Its height varies from 2 to 4 m. It has gray bark and long branches directed upwards. The leaves are small, since they usually do not exceed 3 cm in length. Moreover, the plates are smooth on top and scaly below. Some leaves stay on the bush at all throughout the winter. The flowering of this rhododendron lasts about 3 weeks, and the inflorescences appear before the immediate blooming of the leaves. The flowers are funnel-shaped and purple-pink in color. Their size reaches 4 cm in diameter. Blossoming is often repeated in autumn. The species is considered resistant to frost and propagates by cuttings.

Rhododendron daurian (Rhododendron dauricum)

• Japanese rhododendron. This species grows in nature in Japan, and is considered one of the most attractive and interesting. It is represented by a branchy shrub, the height of which is within 2 meters. It has bare shoots, and some may have silvery bristles. The leaves of this rhododendron are green and oblong. They have soft pubescence on both sides. In autumn, they acquire a reddish tint. The flowers are bell-shaped, and their size is about 8 cm in diameter. They are collected in racemose inflorescences of about 8 pieces. They have an orange or red tint.

Japanese Rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

• Hybrid. This includes many varieties obtained by combining different types of rhododendron. The most popular varieties are: Blue Peter, Alfred and Rose Marie.

Rhododendron Blue Peter

Rhododendron Alfred

Rhododendron Rose Marie

Thus, before the direct acquisition of a certain species or variety of rhododendron, it is necessary to decide which variety is optimal for growing.

Rhododendron - landing

Russian climatic conditions are considered not very suitable for this plant, therefore, exclusively winter-hardy varieties are selected. The planting procedure is accompanied by certain features:

• it is recommended to plant rhododendrons in the ground between the beginning of April and mid-May, and it is also allowed to carry out the process in the fall, namely in October;
• planting is not allowed during the flowering period, therefore, this process is usually performed 2 weeks after its end;
• for planting a rhododendron, it is advisable to choose shaded areas of the territory, therefore the northern side of the building is considered optimal;
• loose soil with a high acidity is being prepared, and it is desirable to additionally add humus to it;
• the soil must be well drained;
• if the groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then it is recommended to plant the rhododendron using a raised bed;
• it is optimal to plant a plant next to an oak or larch, as well as other trees, whose roots go deep into the ground;
• for planting a rhododendron, an optimal planting pit is created, the diameter of which is approximately 60 cm;
• its depth should be about 40 cm;
• a mixture of peat and loam is poured into it, since these components are considered optimal for creating a high-quality planting mixture;
• this mixture is well rammed in the hole, after which a hole is made in it, the dimensions of which are completely equal to the root coma of the prepared seedling;
• it is recommended to prepare well the seedlings of rhododendron, for which they are immersed in water before planting and kept there until air bubbles appear on the surface;
• the roots of the plant are lowered into the prepared hole, after which the hole is covered with a substrate;
• it ramps well, since voids are not allowed;
• if the soil was not moistened in advance, after planting the rhododendron is well watered, and it is important that the soil is moistened by about 20 cm in depth;
• the trunk circle is mulched with peat, and oak leaves or moss are also used for this;
• if a rhododendron seedling was purchased, equipped with a large number of buds, then some of them are eliminated so that all the forces of the plant are directed to rooting;
• for protection from the wind, it is recommended to use a support, and it tilts towards the winds, and it is removed after the rhododendron bush takes root well.

Note! With the correct planting process, the root collar of the seedling is at ground level.

Rhododendron - care

These plants are considered easy to care for, therefore, light actions are performed for optimal growth:

• it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the soil next to the rhododendron bushes, as you can easily damage the roots located near the surface of the earth;
• weeds are removed exclusively by hand, so you cannot use a hoe or other auxiliary tools;
• rhododendron is considered a specific plant that needs a lot of moisture, not only in the soil, but also in the atmosphere, and this is especially true during the period when buds are formed or the flower begins to bloom;
• it is recommended to water the flowers with exceptionally soft and settled water;
• it is allowed to add a little peat to the water a day before using it;
• the amount of watering of rhododendron is quite easy to determine after examining the condition of the leaves, since if they become dull, then it is imperative to water them;
• it is necessary to water with a significant amount of water in order to shed the soil to a depth of about 30 cm, but it is not allowed to flood the roots too much, as this can lead to the drooping and folding of the leaves;
• it is recommended to additionally spray rhododendron leaves in hot weather;
• plant pruning is carried out minimally, since the bushes independently form an attractive and regular shape, but sometimes it is required to cut excessively tall bushes;
• frozen shoots are removed by pruning, and this process must be performed in early spring;
• cuts are processed with garden varnish;
• by all means, top dressing is introduced for all rhododendrons, and this process must be performed in early spring and in mid-summer after the end of flowering;
• it is advisable for this plant to use liquid fertilizers obtained with the use of horn meal and cow dung;
• water the plant well before using top dressing;
• rhododendrons are grown in acidic soil, so fertilizers suitable for such soil are selected.

Note! A specific feature of rhododendron is that in one year it strikes with abundant and attractive flowering, but the next year fruiting and flowering deteriorates, and in order to prevent such consequences, it is recommended to remove wilted inflorescences after flowering, as this will lead to the fact that all the strength of the plant will be directed to the formation of new kidneys.

Thus, there is no particular difficulty in caring for a rhododendron, so if you carefully study all the rules, they will always delight you with abundant and beautiful flowering.

Rhododendron after flowering

In autumn, it is required to water the plants well in dry weather. If the rains are regular, then you can not water the rhododendrons at all. In November, the bushes near the roots are insulated, for which a fairly dense layer of peat is used.

For optimal wintering, it is recommended to cover the plants with burlap, under which spruce or pine branches are laid. Such a shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts.

Diseases and pests of rhododendrons

Pests are often found on the plant:

• spider mites, bugs and weevils, and they should be destroyed with diazinon;
• flies and mealybugs, as well as snails, scale insects and other pests are removed by karbofos.

Fungal diseases in rhododendrons are common, including cancer, rust, or leaf spot. Usually their appearance is associated with poor aeration of the roots. Copper sulfate or other special preparations are used to eliminate diseases.

Chlorosis causes rhododendrons to turn yellow, so when watering it is recommended to use water with the addition of iron. Cancer-affected shoots are removed, and the whole plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid for prevention.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region

Many people are interested in the possibility of growing rhododendron in the suburbs, as this plant is striking in its sophistication and attractiveness, therefore it can become a decoration of any site.

Note! Many people buy a plant, plant it on the territory and observe the decay of the rhododendron, and this is due to improper care of it.

The main features of growing a flower in the Moscow region include:

• exclusively frost-resistant varieties are selected that can withstand a significant drop in temperature;
• planting is carried out in the spring and in a place where there is partial shade;
• the close proximity of rhododendron with other flowers is not desirable, so a distance of about 1 m is left between them;
• it is recommended to purchase a special soil intended for rhododendrons;
• the hole for planting is 2 times larger than the root system of the existing seedling;
• if there is clay soil, then a drainage layer is made at the bottom of the planting pit;
• it is not allowed to significantly deepen the root neck of the rhododendron;
• the seedling is watered after planting;
• balanced, regular and deep watering is certainly carried out;
• if a lot of sunlight gets on the rhododendron, then it is recommended to cover it with gauze or mesh;
• circles are mulched next to the plant, but it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the flower.

Thus, the key to effective and optimal growth and development of rhododendron in the Moscow region is its competent planting and proper care.

Rhododendron properties

Rhododendron has not only an attractive and unique appearance, but also some useful properties. These include:

• some varieties contain ascorbic acid, and its content is maximum in the summer;
• rhododendron is used to reduce pressure, get rid of edema and shortness of breath, and also helps to remove excess fluid from the body;
• can be used as an antipyretic and pain reliever;
• used to calm down.

Note! Rhododendron is not a harmless plant, therefore, it is forbidden to take it to pregnant and lactating women, as well as people with kidney disease.

Rhododendron flowers - photo

Mother's Day Rhododendron

Thus, the rhododendron is a beautiful plant that requires optimal care for its growth and flowering. With a competent approach, it is ensured that a really attractive and bright plant is obtained, which becomes a real decoration of the territory. It can be used to treat a variety of health conditions due to its many beneficial properties.

There is an opinion that caring for a rhododendron is rather difficult, and the shrub itself is capricious, so not everyone can grow it in a moderately cold climate. And only after getting to know this amazing and beautiful plant better, you understand that it's not about complexity, but about the specifics of culture. Rhododendron is not complicated - it just is not like everyone else.

A rhododendron bush in bloom - such a handsome man is worth the effort!

General requirements for the growing environment

It so happened that the rhododendron belongs to the elite of the floral and decorative kingdom. Buying such a valuable specimen, many strive to select the best place for him in the garden - in the sun, with fertile soil, generously seasoned with humus. Stereotypes are triggered that have nothing to do with the real needs of the culture, and this is the main mistake of inexperienced gardeners.

Under natural conditions, most species of rhododendrons grow in the undergrowth, that is, in a special microclimate under a tree canopy, where they are reliably protected from the scorching sun, piercing winds, and drafts. When planting rhododendrons in the garden, they need to create growing conditions, focusing on the principles of life in the natural environment.

1. Light needs intense, but diffused. It is this kind of illumination in the lower tiers of the forest, and it is this intensity of solar radiation that determines the structure of leaves and the type of photosynthesis. Evergreen species are more sensitive to excess sun - in open space they get leaf burns.
2. Sour and well-drained soil. Under natural conditions, most of the root system (and in rhododendrons it is superficial) is in deciduous forest litter, consisting of rotted and fresh litter, humus, podzolic soil. This environment is not very nutritious, has an acidic pH, but is saturated with air, which is important given the structure of the plant roots.
3. Symbiosis with mushrooms is the basis of plant nutrition. The roots of rhododendron, like other members of the heather family, do not have root hairs. The role of the supplier of nutrients from soil to tissue is played by the mycelium of mycorrhiza, the simplest fungi that live directly in plant cells. To prevent the mycelium from suffocating, a constant flow of air is needed, therefore dense clay soils are absolutely not suitable for heather crops.
4. Increased moisture in the soil and air. Rhododendrons have a special attitude towards moisture - they suffer from both lack of water and excess, especially in case of stagnation or flooding. The problem is solved by a properly selected structure of the planting substrate, which should not only be filled with moisture and retain it, but also have sufficient aeration.
5. Protection from winds and drafts. Many species, including winter-hardy ones, withstanding temperatures of -30⁰C and below, suffer from piercing winter winds and drafts. Agrotechnical methods are used for protection - a sheltered place, a shelter for the winter, planting in groups.

Thus, if rhododendrons are grown taking into account biological characteristics, they will not create any problems and will delight the owners with magnificent flowering for decades.

The right choice and planting is the key to the longevity of the plant

So that the acquired rhododendrons do not become a crop of one season, you should thoroughly prepare for the plant. Agrotechnical measures preceding planting are conventionally divided into several stages - the choice of a suitable variety, the storage of components for the substrate, the selection of the site.

Plant selection

The agricultural technique of planting and caring for rhododendron largely depends on the species. If you are new to gardening, or if you are unsure of the temperature in your area, it is best to start with deciduous varieties. Firstly, they are more adapted to cold climates, do not require crown cover for the winter; secondly, they are not so demanding on moisture and can grow in the open sun.

Of deciduous shrubs for the middle lane, R. canadian, Japanese, Daurian, Schlippenbach, yellow, pink are suitable. Moreover, it is better to start with the species, and not the varieties - they are more viable and resistant to adverse conditions.

If, nevertheless, the choice was stopped on evergreen rhododendrons, start with the Katevbinsky, Caucasian, Yakushiman species or varieties and hybrids created on their genotype.

Important! When choosing planting material, give preference to plants from local nurseries. Although they are not as attractive as those grown in the mild climate of Europe, they are hardened and adapted to the conditions of the region. The optimum age of the seedling is 3-4 years.

Seat selection

For growing rhododendrons, the most problematic areas of the garden are often suitable, unsuitable for light-loving crops - in the shade of trees, on the north, north-west side of buildings. The main thing is that it is secluded, protected from the prevailing winds and midday sun rays in the region.

Placing shrubs under trees, you need to choose varieties of the latter with a deep root system in order to delimit the zones of plant nutrition. Rhododendrons prefer growing in the vicinity of pines, junipers, oaks, maples, and apple trees.

Substrate preparation

In our gardens, soils suitable for growing rhododendrons are quite rare, so the planting substrate should be prepared in advance. Required components for potting mix:

• horse (red peat) with acidic pH;
• coniferous litter, consisting of semi-decomposed needles, twigs, cones, mixed with humus and other plant residues;
• river sand or sandy soil (upper fertile layer);
• rotted sawdust of coniferous trees.

The substrate is prepared from peat and coniferous litter in equal proportions with the addition of one part of garden soil or river sand. Needles can be replaced with sawdust, ordinary low-lying peat can be acidified by adding sphagnum moss, acidic fertilizers, for example, potassium sulfate or ammonium. The main thing is that the substrate is light, breathable and acidic. If there is nowhere to find suitable ingredients for the substrate, you can purchase targeted soil for azaleas.

Important! One of the reasons why rhododendron does not bloom may be alkaline soil. Such an environment has a depressing effect on the plant - in addition to the fact that it does not bloom, it grows poorly, is affected by pests, and chlorosis of the leaves develops.

Landing technology

Seedlings grown in containers are planted both in spring and autumn. In the spring, it is advisable to do this before the start of the active growing season, approximately in April. The autumn planting month is September, so that the plant has time to take root and adapt before the cold weather.

A mandatory agrotechnical requirement for planting shrubs is the preparation of a deep (at least 50 cm) and wide (60–70 cm) planting hole, which is filled with a prepared substrate. It is carefully compacted and spilled with water.

Before planting, the seedling is dipped into water so that the earthen lump is limp, the roots are straightened and placed in a prepared hole. One more requirement - in no case should the root collar be buried, it should be at the same level as before transplantation.

After planting, the root zone must be mulched. For these purposes, coniferous needles, rotted sawdust, leaves, straw are suitable. Their layer should be at least 5–7 cm thick. Mulch not only retains moisture, but also serves as a light organic fertilizer for rhododendrons.

The shrub loves group planting - natural thickets reliably protect the shoots from winds and freezing. The distance between seedlings depends on the height of an adult shrub, but not less than 1 meter.

Seasons: seasonal worries

For rhododendron, the specificity of care is determined by seasonal changes: in the spring - getting out of winter sleep and preparing for flowering, in the summer - taking care of the growth and laying of flowering buds for the next year, in the fall - preparing for winter.

Spring chores

When positive temperatures are established and there are no strong night frosts, the covering material is removed. This should be done in cloudy weather, you can in several stages, gradually opening the bush, first from the north, and a little later from the south. Leaves overwintered without access to light are sensitive to the bright spring sun and can get burned.

The leaves of rhododendron in the spring remain twisted for some time, without receiving an impulse from the roots, so the first thing to do is to start the work of the root system. To do this, rake off the mulch so that the soil thaws faster. If after a week the leaves are still curled, then they have lost a lot of moisture and the root zone must be watered with warm water.

After the buds swell, the shrub is examined and the frozen shoots and dried branches are removed. If the weather is dry, the plant must be watered at least 2-3 times a week before flowering. Watering rate - 10-15 liters per adult bush.

Important! Water for irrigation of rhododendrons must have a pH level in the range of 4-5 units, otherwise it will alkalize the soil, which is undesirable. To acidify the water, 3-4 g of citric, oxalic, acetic (70%) acid or 15-20 ml of electrolyte for batteries are dissolved in 10 liters of liquid.

Spring is the only time of the year when rhododendrons can be fed with organic fertilizers. You can only use well-rotted manure, if possible, high peat is added to it. A bucket of this mixture is poured into the trunk circle instead of mulch and watered abundantly.

How to feed rhododendrons in spring if there is no organic matter? At the end of flowering, feeding with Kemir's targeted complex fertilizers for azaleas (rhododendrons) is effective. It is completely balanced and, in addition to containing the necessary nutrients, acidifies the soil.

Summer care

After flowering, care for rhododendron is aimed at replenishing the strength for the growth of young shoots and the establishment of flower buds. The plant needs the following agrotechnical measures.

• Regular, abundant watering and spraying of the crown with water in summer temperature during the hottest hours.
• Removing the seed pods so that the shrub does not expend energy on ripening the seeds, but sends them to young growth. This should be done in hot weather so that the injured shoot dries up immediately.
• If the plant was not fertilized with Kemira during flowering, June feeding with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, ammonium nitrate (25–30 g per 10 l of water), is needed. Nitrogen is needed for the growth of green shoots. Watering rate - 2 buckets of solution per adult bush.
• In addition to feeding rhododendrons in the spring and in June, some gardeners recommend fertilizing in the second half of July. By this time, the shoot completes the growth, its leaves become dense, leathery, and a flower bud appears at the top. Top dressing at this time with a phosphorus-potassium composition is a guarantee of abundant flowering for the next year.

Advice! For top dressing in three doses - in early spring (100 g / m²), during flowering (100 g / m²) and in mid-July (50 g / m²), the following universal composition of acid fertilizers is used. Superphosphate (10 parts) and sulfates - ammonium (9), potassium (4), magnesium (2) are mixed.

Preparing for winter

An important element of rhododendron care is proper preparation for winter.

An evergreen shrub should be very well saturated with moisture in the winter so that it will last for long months of cold weather, so it is recommended to water it abundantly in the fall. Deciduous shrubs only need watering in dry weather.

Both deciduous and evergreen species need to cover the root system with a thick layer of mulch (up to 20 cm). The soil is covered in a near-trunk circle for a crown radius.

For shelter, a frame of wire or wooden slats is built around the bush - a kind of improvised wigwam. It is lined with spruce branches or covered with 2 layers of breathable covering material (burlap, lutrasil). Low-growing varieties fall asleep with fallen leaves, needles.

When growing rhododendrons, the main thing is to understand their nature, learn to recognize problems and needs by the condition and appearance of the shrub. The plant is responsive not only to correct agricultural techniques, but love and care and will definitely reciprocate.

Video about preparing rhododendrons for winter:

h

These shrubs are great during flowering. At the beginning of the 19th century, rhododendrons began to decorate Russian gardens for the first time. Varieties, cultivation in open ground, planting, care, reproduction: we cultivate rhododendrons according to all the rules.

The genus of rhododendrons is quite extensive - more than 1,000 species, which include various varieties of this wonderful plant. The natural area of \u200b\u200bdistribution of rhododendrons is limited to the eastern countries: China, Japan, Korea, the Himalayas; some plant species are found in the Caucasus, North America, northern Africa and Australia. In European territory, two varieties of rhododendron grow in the mountainous regions of Germany.

Rhododendron is a magnificent plant with a long flowering period

The culture belongs to flowering deciduous or evergreen shrubs of the heather family. The branches of the plant can have smooth bark or pubescence. Leathery, dark green small ovoid leaves are sometimes pubescent. The flowers are bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, simple and double. The color of the petals varies depending on the variety: white, pink, lilac, red, purple. Modern varieties of rhododendron are yellow and orange in color. Numerous small seeds ripen in capsules.

Rhododendrons, the cultivation of which on the territory of Russia is the most acceptable, is limited to 26 species belonging to three groups of plants.

• Evergreens are tall shrubs that do not shed their dark leathery foliage even in winter. Large flowers are painted in different colors and tones. Growing evergreen rhododendrons in the open field requires compliance with a number of necessary rules: plants are placed in places with diffused shadow; the soil for them should include a large amount of peat.

Rhododendron evergreen

Tip: It is important to choose the right neighborhood for evergreen species of rhododendron, especially when decorating territories in landscape design. It can be all types of conifers, heather, ferns grown in the open field.

• Intermediate (semi-evergreen) - low shrubs that winter well under a layer of snow. The plant is characterized by a compact form, a huge number of flowers during the flowering period. In winter, most of the leathery leaves fall off, leaving only the whorl of leaves at the ends of the branches, from the center of which new foliage grows.

Semi-evergreen rhododendron

• Deciduous - rhododendrons of this group are most adapted to the conditions of the Russian climate. Cultivation of these plants is not difficult, and the plants themselves do not need to specially adapt in winter. Blossoming in spring, repeated in autumn.

Deciduous rhododendron, grade "Fireworks"

Planting a plant

Rhododendron: planting and caring for plants in compliance with agrotechnical rules - plant transplantation is allowed in spring and autumn. In autumn - in any of three months, in spring - in warm, well-established weather, when the soil is no longer frozen (usually April or May).

The choice of a place for planting a plant must be carried out with special care. Planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing wind and direct sunlight. It is important that the shrub is accessible for viewing, then the decorative appearance of the plant during the flowering period will decorate the territory and please the eye.

Tip: Before planting the plant from the container into the open ground, it should be thoroughly saturated with water.

A planting hole for rhododendron bushes is prepared based on the actual size of the root system, and should be 2 times larger in volume. The natural soil should be removed completely. To plant a plant, it is required to prepare a special earthen soil consisting in equal parts of heather soil; peat; garden soil or leaf humus; rotted manure; needles (pine).

It is very important to plant the plant correctly, then it will quickly take root

The prepared pit is filled with a mixture, a place is prepared in it for planting a rhododendron bush, which must be placed strictly vertically. The soil around the root system of the plant must be tightly squeezed - the formation of voids and "pockets" in the planting soil is not allowed. With a high level of groundwater, it is necessary to provide for the laying of a special drainage layer at the bottom of the pit. After planting, the top layer of soil should be mulched with peat chips.

Rhododendron: proper watering

Watering the planted plant is carried out at the time of planting, - abundant, sufficient to moisten the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm. Subsequent watering of rhododendron should be done with soft, acidified water, with full soil moisture.

Tip: When planting a plant with buds, you must remove most of them.

Plant care

A transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular abundant watering, the rhododendron needs spraying over the foliage, especially when planting in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to maintain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.

The plant needs regular watering

The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, fine hairs, similar to matted hair, so loosening the soil, especially deep, should be excluded from flower care measures. Weeds growing next to the plant need to be removed periodically.

The appearance of the plant will immediately report a lack or excess of water - the leaves of the rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering is required in sufficient quantities, but without overflow, this is one of the main rules of crop care.

To ensure proper care of the rhododendron, it is important to timely prune the overgrown bushes. Places of cuts to prevent infection of the plant, are covered with paint or garden varnish.

Bushes need to be pruned periodically

Compliance with simple plant care requirements will allow you to grow a wonderful flowering bush.

Fertilizing and feeding rhododendron

In the first year, the transplanted plants already require careful fertilization, which is applied in a highly diluted form, in small portions. The plant itself will signal the need for fertilization: it will stop growing, discard the foliage or the leaves change color, the formation of flower buds will stop.

Organic fertilizer for feeding rhododendron bushes - semi-decomposed manure, which must be infused in water. Top dressing is carried out with an aqueous solution of manure. To increase the formation of flower buds, as well as to extend the flowering time, granular superphosphate, or double superphosphate, is used, which is scattered over the moist soil under the plants. The plant is also useful for feeding with microelements - fertilizers are applied in the form of watering or spraying the green mass of the bush. Intensively fertilizing the bushes is required until the end of August.

Rhododendron before flowering

Reproduction of rhododendron

Growing rhododendron involves plant propagation by layering and seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, cuttings.

Seed propagation Is a great way to get plants with improved traits. Sowing is carried out from late December to late March. The second period suitable for seed reproduction of rhododendrons is the end of November.

Sowing seeds is carried out in shallow bowls or boxes filled with a nutrient mixture of peat, sand, coniferous and sod land, taken in equal proportions. The seeds are pre-soaked for a day. Sowing is carried out on the top layer of the soil, without embedding deep into the soil. The sowing is moistened by spraying. It is required to provide seedlings with a 12-hour illumination with fluorescent lamps. The timing of seed germination depends on the variety. The first flowering of seedlings is possible in 3-4 years.

Rhododendron seeds

This method has its advantages, but with seed reproduction of rhododendrons, it takes up to 5-6 years to obtain full-fledged plants.

Faster new plants can be obtained with vegetative methods of culture propagation: cuttings, dividing the bush, rooting cuttings.

Diseases and pests

Compliance with the requirements for agricultural technology of rhododendrons guarantees excellent growth and development of plants. However, repeated waterlogging or overdrying of the soil, alkaline reaction of the soil, sunburn of leaves, can provoke a surge in crop diseases.

Plants can be damaged by spots, rust and chlorosis. Disease control measures - improving the conditions for keeping plants, the use of special means to combat diseases. Often, rhododendron diseases are caused by pathogenic fungi: gray rot, fusarium, late blight.

Spotting is a fungal disease of rhododendron

Pests that damage rhododendrons: slugs and snails that eat young leaves and buds. The collection of these pests is done manually. In addition, the plant is harmed by: bedbugs (rhododendron), spider mites, mealybugs, weevils, scale insects, rhododendra fly. Pest control is easy with systemic insecticides.

Rhododendron: Combination with other plants

Planting plants in combination with conifers and a group of heathers has a positive effect on the development of rhododendrons. It should be remembered about the height of the rhododendron bush. Low cultivars should be located away from the dense shade of mature trees, but avoiding direct sunlight.

Blooming rhododendron perfectly sets off conifers

An excellent combination is observed when located close to rhododendrons of shade-loving ferns and host.

Rhododendron in landscape design

In landscape design, rhododendron is an indispensable attribute for planting in partial shade. The huge advantages of the plant are its long and very decorative flowering. Rhododendrons are widely used in the design of heather gardens, as an addition to the plantings of pine groves. The plant looks great in mono plantings.

Rhododendron in landscape design

Low-growing varieties of rhododendrons are planted near alpine hills, in mixborders and in decorative flower beds.

Planting a garden rhododendron: video

• Kind: heather
• Flowering period: april May June
• Height: 0.3-1.5m
• Colour: white, pink, purple, red, yellow, purple
• Perennial
• Winters
• Shady
• Moisture-loving

It is difficult to imagine a suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their lush hats throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle lane and southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub resembling a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. It is not easy to find an approach to it, but the cultivation and care of rhododendrons over time for some lovers of rare plants develops into a hobby - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most of the lushly flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, but grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or Stavropol Territory. However, some varieties, for example, Daursky or Canadian, thrive in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, in the Urals or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent flowering.

Literally translated from Latin, "rhododendron" means "rose tree" - and indeed, in its appearance the plant is very much like a rose, although it does not belong to rosaceous, but to heather

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known home azalea, which often adorns the windowsills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how the relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, North America, some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are separate bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of the mountains and in the coastal marine areas.

Mountain varieties are small in size and are ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only up to 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink tint.

Among annuals and perennials (and there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a certain region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will not be a problem either, since the color palette of crops is almost limitless. Flowering culture begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to its luxurious color palette, garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, that is, during a convenient growing season for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on a spring planting, which continues, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted earlier than this period are already covered with a dense color by the May holidays - against the background of barely hatching foliage and fresh grassy greens, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink and lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering falls on the last decade of April - early May.

It is important to choose the right landing site, since in the bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely darkened place it will not give a lush flowering.

It is best to break a flowerbed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach maximum strength, the plant is completely closed from them.

Not only the walls of a building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shadow barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees, the roots of which go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant, - oaks, larch trees, spruces, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot stand alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime admixtures. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

• dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
• the lower part is drained with a sandy-pebble layer (10-15 cm);
• they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), while peat should be about 2 times more;
• lightly tamp the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earthen lump of the seedling;
• the roots of the seedling are lowered into the hole and covered with soil mixture to the very root collar, which as a result should be on the same level with the soil surface;
• water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
• produce mulching (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to better take root in a new place, soak the roots thoroughly with water before planting - lower the seedlings in a container with water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

An approximate scheme for planting a rhododendron: 1 - garden soil; 2 - drainage; 3 - soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 - a layer of pine needles

There is one more trick to promote better root development. Cut off the most lush buds of a flowering plant - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further caring for rhododendrons are important steps, following which you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to start decorating a planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape, and decorate the base depending on the style of landscape design of your site

The nuances of flower care

The norms for proper care of flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to observe the watering regime, weed and prune on time, feed the plant with suitable minerals and make sure that pests do not start.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig it up at all. When removing weeds, in no case use a hoe or a garden knife, you can only act manually.

Watering mode and features

The ratio of rhododendron to moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging, on the other, it requires constant spraying and irrigation with specially prepared water.

Even when choosing a site for planting, check whether groundwater does not come close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots will simply "choke" and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to observe the watering regime and atmospheric irrigation during the period of bud development and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, pre-acidifying the water - for this, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water 12-20 hours before watering. It is better not to use tap water, as a last resort, it must be defended. The ideal option is rain collection. The regularity of watering depends on the state of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy shine and changed turgor, it is time to water.

When is it better to prune a plant

The concept of trimming is very arbitrary. Usually, the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering bush of the correct shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to prune. But sometimes you need to thin out the shrub, make it a little lower, or just rejuvenate it.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, until the sap flow has begun. Choose strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and process the cuts with specially prepared garden pitch or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will start, which continues throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Pruning of frozen or old bushes requires special skill: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately within 2 years: part this year, the second next

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly exuberant color, expect more modest results next year. To prevent this from happening, remove wilted buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branching shrubs with dense foliage and many buds are a great place to live for insects, half of which can destroy the beauty you grow within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the shrub.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are collected by hand. Watch out for scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealy worms. Treat stems and branches with 8% Tiram fungicide, Karbofos helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bugs, ticks, and especially the weevil, for which diazonin is used to get rid of. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to process not only the plant itself, but also the top layer of soil around it

Along with insect pests, rhododendrons are threatened by diseases of the fungal type - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux liquid is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Top dressing and choice of fertilizers

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. To preserve an acidic environment important for culture, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulfate or calcium, ammonium are used, but in a minimum concentration.

Early spring top dressing is made of fertilizers containing nitrogen (for 1 cubic meter of liquid 40-50 g of magnesium sulfate or ammonium), it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the fertilizer dose should be reduced to 20 g.

The ideal feed for rhododendrons is a liquid solution of natural fertilizers such as horn meal or cow dung. Overripe manure is diluted with water (1 part of fertilizer per 15 parts of water), infused for 3-4 days and used during irrigation

After 1-2 years after planting, the topsoil must be renewed. To do this, peat is mixed in equal parts with humus or compost and sprinkled around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium are added to the bedding (dry matter - 1 tbsp. Spoon). As a dry powder, you can use Agricola for flowering garden plants. Remember to fertilize only carefully watered shrubs.

Breeding methods - which one to choose

Consider the three most successful ways to reproduce rhododendron in the garden:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and laborious task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes of damp peat, some sand is added, covered with glass caps and placed in a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

The seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to the 2 x 3 cm scheme.The seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Reproduction by cuttings is also not tolerated by all gardeners. It is necessary to take half-woody shoots and cut several cuttings about 7-8 cm long from them.

The leaves are removed from the bottom, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin - a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimum temperature is 10 ° C. They are planted in spring along with other flowers, right in boxes, and only after a couple of years they can be transplanted to the main place of growth.

The most convenient breeding option is pinning layers. A flexible lower shoot is taken, a groove 12-15 cm deep is pulled out near it, and the shoot is placed in this groove.

So that it does not rise, the middle part of the stem is pinned, and sprinkled with peat on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck into the ground

The layering is looked after in the same way as the entire bush - watered, sprayed. When it takes root (in late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to the place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for breeding deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular summer cottages

In the coniferous garden, a 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will live well. It is distinguished by abundant flowering of buds, reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will certainly delight you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom as usual

Rhododendron Adams is an oriental guest accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with pale pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. It is rarely found in our country, and in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low, creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual pale yellow or cream shade, which will remarkably dilute the more saturated, juicy colors of other varieties

The Japanese Rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous cultivar with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in central Russia

And finally - a short video on how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.