How to make a kettle from cardboard for a gift. Master class "Tea bags for tea bags

I present to you a master class - how to make a kettle from threads and arrange it with flowers from chocolates. Such a souvenir made by your own hands will be an original gift for any holiday, it can be filled with tasty tea bags or loved ones. My workman's lesson see here. Also, I prepared many other simple master classes for children - candidate and paper bouquets and crafts from corrugation.

Make a ball of threads in the form of a kettle

Inflate the air ball.

For the handle and the spout, we take the waterproof cardboard, I cut it out of juice packaging.

We prepare the adhesive solution: in 50 ml of water, we dissolve 3 teaspoons of sugar, add 10-20 ml of PVA glue. We start winding our ball threads.

If you want the kettle to be pure white - take cotton threads, because synthetic from such a solution is yellow.

It dries about 24 hours, sometimes longer. Initially, they will drip a little, so the blanks are better to arrange over the sink.

Another nuance is not worth the ball to tie with threads, because, after all manipulations with him, he can simply be blown out even until the moment when the glue fell.

My secret - I twisting the tail ball on the wire. Firstly, the ball will never be blown away, secondly, you can make a hook from it and hang dry, thirdly, when the ball is completely dry, you can simply unscrew the wire, release the air and carefully pull it out, not burnt it.

The finished ball looks beautiful.

Cut from it the lid of the future kettle.

Purchase the upper edge.

We prepare a spout and handle. On the edge, I spent a thin wire (to keep the shape), with the help of hot glue attached lace.

Fixed the handle and nose also with the help of wires.

Lid decorating lace.

Add some gold and a droplet.

Our chairs are ready, it remains only to decorate with it with paper flowers. The rest can be found here.

If there is old dishes and three-layer napkins in your house, then you can, with the help of our tips, reflect the old kettle. In this article you will find several ways to make a kettle yourself, a list of materials necessary for this, as well as serial instructions for each method.

How to make a kettle from cardboard with the basis

For the manufacture of such a kettle, you will need: old ceramic kettle, acrylic paint, three-layer napkins, brush for glue, glue and varnish.

From cardboard I make a model of a teapot for welding. You can use the papier-mache technique, at which one layer of torn paper is pasted on another, and the base (we will form a ceramic kettle) to be fused by vaseline. We wait for drying and gently glue all the details together. Knocks need to sand.
Ground the kettle with acrylic paint. We wait for drying the first layer and proceed to applying the second.
Now work with the kettle stop and wait for the full drying of the paint. In the meantime, the elements of the pattern are sorted from three-layer napkins. We remove two layers, leaving only the top with the pattern.
After the kettle is driving, abundantly lubricate its surface with PVA glue. Gently combine the napkin and the wall of the kettle. Picture stroke with a brush with glue, smoothing the folds and pushing the air down. Moved in drawing down, we apply an additional layer of glue to the surface of the napkin. We will wait for the day and proceed with the decoration of the kettle. For this, acrylic paints are applied patterns, curls and edging.
In completion, we apply two layers of varnish for decoration.

How to make a kill from clay

In order to make a kettle from clay, you will need: clay, oven, paint.

We sculpt the original kettle from the household clay. We put it in the oven and wait until the clay does not fully harm. Get out of the oven and leave until complete cooling.
Now you can proceed to decorating the kettle. Apply the colors of the monotonous layer. We give dry, we apply a new one, and so until all the lumens are crushed. After that, you can proceed to applying a pattern.
We give a teapot with a pattern again, after which we apply two layers of varnish.

How to sew a kettle

In order to sew a kettle yourself, you will need: threads, flavors, foam rubber. In order to make such a kettle, it is necessary to cut it out of the flasks, and then sew in the selected form. To this type of kettle, it is better to make a lining from the foam rubber. This product can be used in the farm in order to wear on a brew - so the heat will be saved. When choosing a patchwork, try to apply as much imagination as possible to make a teapot cheerful and original. By the way, such a kettle can become an excellent gift for tea lovers.

How to make a kettle in the form of a panel

For the manufacture of the kettle, you will need a panel: pebbles, glass pieces, glue, cardboard, frame. We lay out the glass and pebbles into the picture in the form of a fun kettle. We stick them on a tight cardboard and insert into the frame for glass. Now you know the kettle can be made in completely different ways and for absolutely different purposes!

In this article, you will learn about an interesting and for some reason forgotten accessory for teapots: whistle, for which it needs, how to use it and how can it be done at home. The whistle is necessary in order to know when water boiled. Each person must evaluate the whistle functions, which allows all people who use electric kettles, learn about when water boats. But it happens that there is no whistle on the new kettle, or he is Paul.

Whistle for the kettle do it yourself

There are many ways to make a whistle for dummies at home. For this, sufficiently some free time, materials and, of course, desire. Let's look through the most interesting ways.

Metal whistle

The form he will resemble a short cylinder. The upper part can take a different design. First of all, metal without signs of corrosion should be taken. After that, you can proceed to the following actions:

Cut two circles and a rectangle for the cylinder;
Connect these details into the whole.

Cork

You can also make an excellent whistle for the kettle with your own hands using just ordinary traffic jams that you close the bottles from lemonade or water daily. This will require several simple actions:

Take two plugs and connect them into one unit;
Cut hole hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

Be careful when you use this method, you need to make an extensive metal cylinder, which is located between traffic jams.

From a toy whistle

An option from children's whistle is suitable for teapots with thin nose. It is located on it, covering the entire surface. And if the kettle has a wide nose, then it is better for him a metal glass, in which it will be necessary to drill a hole with a normal drill.

First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the metal. Whistle from high-quality metal will serve you very long time and great efficiency.

In no case do not use aluminum and plastics for the whistle! These materials are unstable to high temperatures.

How to fix a whistle if he broke

If you bought a poor-quality device, then it can be fixed by following these steps:

You need to take the shell in which the whistle is located, and with the help of rebirth get it.
The next step should be removed the spring and prepare the surface for further work. To prepare the surface you need to clean it.
When you go to the spike you need a soldering acid. After the surface is prepared, you can start a spawning, and then clean the parts from the dirt sticking to them.
The last step in this process is neutralization. Use you need picked. In addition to the pitch, you can use alcohol, but remember that this procedure should be carried out in the open air. It is necessary to do it carefully, so as not to harm your health. To neutralize the crawl, place it in a glass and fill the alcohol into it, about 10 or 25%.

Following these rules, you can easily repair a whistle or make a new one!

Tatyana Getmanskaya

Next, we take care of our napkins. To do this, remove the bottom layers of the napkin, depending on which these are one or two layers, we leave to work the color side. Finished blanks with plow glue and gently apply a napkin, closely tear. You can internal part kettle Decorate with one pattern, outdoor. It turns out very beautiful on the contrast. Let's dry by each side separately, so that work is faster, I am dry by a hairdryer.

Decorate every half with a decorative cord, glit for strength to adhesive gun

and "collect" teapot

covered acrylic varnish

you can put tea bags

all is ready

Publications on the topic:

Master class for children 6-7 years old. "Stand for handles and pencils."

Municipal pre-school educational institution Children's garden of the general developmental type No. 74 "Luche" Master class for children and parents "Feeders.

Master class for teachers. "A gift for mom. Chamomile - needle "Educator Mothoa number 3" Bell "Novokubansk, Krasnodar.

Master class for teachers "Russian folk games for preschoolers" Master Class Scenario for Dow Teachers. Topic: "Russian folk games for preschool children" Objective: Transfer and distribution.

Master class for parents with children. The topic "Hatha-yoga for children" Master class plan: 1 What is Hatha Yoga? 2 Value of exercises on.

Master class for parents for the manufacture of a desktop puppet theater. Educators: Geraskin Julia Shalinovna Zainchukovskaya Tatiana.

Household appliances for cooking are widely used by humanity and the leader of them, perhaps is an electric kettle. But the service life of any electrical appliance is not eternal and occurs when you include an electric kettle, and water does not heat up.

The electric fuel is one of the most simple household appliances, and to repair it in many cases is completely simple, even without having electrical engineering skills.

Principle of operation and electrical circuit

To perform the repair of an electric kettle, it is necessary to know the principle of its work. It is easy to do by electrical circuit. Although the models of teapots are many, but they are all collected on one electrical circuit, regardless of the appearance and capacity. There are some differences in the schemes, for example, the presence of a timer, but the basis of the scheme is still preserved.

Works electric kettle as follows. Through the electrical plug, the mains voltage with a flexible cord is fed to the contacts XP1 stand on which an electric kettle is installed when water is heated. At the base of the kettle, there are response contacts that when installing it on the stand are connected to the contacts on the stand.

Next, the current passes through the thermal switch S1, which is turned on using the key on the kettle and turns off automatically when water in boils. The thermal protection switch S2 is not directly involved in the work, always enabled and triggers only in the case of overheating of the case, if the kettle is in the included state without water. With switches, the voltage is fed to the conclusions of the tubular electric heater, the abbreviated - TEN. The HL light is used to indicate the included state.

Device of electrochetics nodes

If the electrical appliance voltage differs from 220 V, for example, the automobile electric kettle is 12 V, then you can calculate the consumption current using an online calculator.

Attention! When repairing an electric kettle and any other household electrical appliances included in the household network, extreme caution should be observed. The touch of an unprotected area of \u200b\u200bthe human body to the current-carrying wires and details that are under voltage can cause serious damage to health, right up to the heart stop. Do not forget to remove the plug of the electric kettle from the outlet!

How to disassemble an electric kettle

To accurately determine the cause and troubleshooting, it is necessary to remove the lid from the bottom of the electric kettle. When removing the lid, you can encounter some difficulties.

Usually the bottom cover is screwed to the base of the electric kettle with screws with slots under the crusade screwdriver. Sometimes the screws of the screws are drowning in the lid and are closed with decorative plugs, which can be removed using a sharp item to be removed.

Some manufacturers for complicating the capabilities of self-repairing an electric kettle All or one of the screws are installed with a slot under the rod screwdriver type forks, which wears the name Spanne, as on this photograph. SPANNE type screwdriver is rarely available at homemade masters. In the absence of such a dumping, unscrew the screws using boards or tweezers.

If it does not work out to unscrew the screw in this way, then you need to make a special screwdriver from a screwdriver with a flat sting, making a sample in the middle of it under a slot profile in the middle of the scene.

When repaired, it sometimes happens that unsubscribe from plastic does not turn out. In this case, you can try to stronger the screw from the place towards the spinning. If it is stronner, it will be easily unscrewed.

If you cannot unscrew it in this way, it is necessary to heat it with a soldering iron, putting a sting to the head. The plastic from heating around the thread of the self-sharp will soften, and it will easily get out. On the same technology, the stand of the electric kettle is also disassembled.

In some models of electric kettle after unscrewing self-tapping, the lid is easily removed. But more often it is additionally recorded all over the perimeter also latches. There are models in which the cover holds only on the latches.

At the top of the photo, the cover with a latch is depicted, and at the bottom, the base of the electric kettle with the square hole in which the latch enters when the lid is installed. On the right side of the foundation in the frame got one of the latches of the kettle handle.

For the release of the latch, it is necessary to neatly flat sting a screwdriver to shower in different points of the cover of the cover and the case in the search for the location of the latch.

When it was possible to remove one of the latches from the hole, the screwdriver is left in this place and the second screwdriver is searched by the next latch. When a couple of latches are released, the rest are no longer clamped, and the lid can easily be removed. Often, remove the cover from the base is more difficult than to eliminate the malfunction.

The electric kettle does not heat the water, the light light indicator is on

By such behavior, determine the fault is the easiest way. As can be seen from the electrical circuit, the indicator light or backlight is connected directly to the terminals, put on the conclusions of the Tan. Therefore, if the light bulbs burns, and the kettle does not heat the water, it means that the cause of the malfunction lies in a bad contact of the terminals with the tanning conclusions or the spiral burst inside it.

Restoration of contact in precipitated terminals

After removing the lid from the base of the kettle and the inspection of the connecting contacts, the reason for the breakdown became apparent. One of the contacts of the Tan burned, and the terminal was practically hung in the air.

In the second derogation of Tan, the Terminal was also in poor condition, all shown along with contact. Surprisingly, the electric kettle could warm the water before.

The terminal was all checked, and its further use was impossible. Contact on the withdrawal of the Tan, though partially burned, but the spring properties were not required of it, and the remaining part after the cleaner would well provide good contact.

The new terminal was not available and had to use a terminal that was in use. If a new terminal is nowhere to take, then you can use a terminal from the stand, with which the ground wire is supplied (yellow-green wire). In the overwhelming number of apartments, the electrical wiring does not have a grounding conductor, and the withdrawal of this terminal will not affect the operation of the kettle.

Before using the old Terminem, it needs to be released from the wires pressed into it. To do this, it is necessary to clamp both in the photo of the terminal with small pliers and faceted seam, pressing and rotating it, push the mustache. Wire remnants will fall, and the terminal will be ready for re-use.

On the photo on the left you see two wires that have been pressed into the terminal. In a thick stranded wire, the supply voltage comes, and on a thin single-liner is fed to the neon light bulb or the water backlight system. These wires need to be entered into the shank of the terminal and enhance them with the help of pliers, after which the terminal will be ready to connect to theta.

In the next step, it is necessary to clean the contact on the output of the Tan with the help of shallow emery paper. After that, it will remain to wear the terminal for this contact, and reliable electrical contact will be provided.

After removing the terminal from the second contact, it turned out that both the terminal itself and the contact on the tane in good condition is only covered with oxides. After removing the black plaque from the contact with the sandpaper, it became like a new one. Before putting on the terminal for better contact, it was a little composed of the round-rolls. To remove oxides from the internal contacting surfaces of the terminal, it is necessary to wear it several times and removed onto a flat contact of the Tan.

This can be considered completed. It remains without installing the bottom cover to place in the kettle of water to the level of the minimum mark and check its performance. If the kettle did not warm the water, then it is most likely in the breakup of the Spiral of the Tan, but there may be other reasons. In order to further continue troubleshooting, you first need to check the serviceability of the Tan. It is impossible to replace the TEN in the electric kettle, as he is welded to its base. This kettle is not subject to repair.

Restoration of welded contacts

I got into repair the glass electric kettle of the Polaris Pwk 1719CGL model with a backlight, which, when turned on, the indicator burned, but the water did not heat up. Such a malfunction indicated a violation of contact at the place of connecting the conclusions of the Tan.

The bottom cover is easy after unscrewing three screws. I liked the assembly quality. The assumption was confirmed in this model, the connection to the electrical circuit was performed by an unconventional method with the help of precipitated terminals, and point welding of a flat brass wire directly with the Tan's output, one of which went away. Obviously, due to violation of technology, the conductor was poorly welded.

A small mechanical effect of hand to the second flat wire led to his falling off. Flat conductors to the electrical diagram of the kettle were connected using capel terminals. They were removed and the wires were headed under the conclusions of the Tan from the bottom, as shown in the photo.

For reliable contact of flat conductors with conclusions, they were pressed with metal slats with screws. The planks were taken from the Soviet network fork (a network wire was pressed) and a socket. When installing slats, you need to trace so that they do not touch the metal casing.

Checking the electric kettle showed an excellent job. The boiled water was beautifully highlighted in blue light due to the LED illumination. I liked the design of the kettle, as well as the assembly quality. It is a pity that the welding of wires with the leads of the Tan turned out to be poor quality. After the described repair, the electric kettle is quickly served for several years.

The electric kettle does not heat the water, the inclusion indicator does not burn

Like any other electrical appliance, the electric kettle to the electrical network is connected using an electric plug type C6 and the first thing to do if the kettle does not heat the water, it is an external inspection to make sure that the plug is working and in the outlet there is a voltage. You can check the socket by connecting any electrical appliance, such as a table lamp.

Repair of the contact group of the electric kettle with the stand

Since the tension on the electric kettle is supplied through the stand using the contact of its contacts with the contacts of the current receiver, then it is necessary to check the external inspection of the contact pair for burning. A sign of contacting in the contact pair appears at an early stage, and manifests itself in the need to rotate the kettle on the stand so that it starts to warm the water. To prevent more serious consequences, it is necessary to immediately clear the contacts from Nagara.

To check, you need to flip the kettle and inspect the condition of the contact rings. In the photo of this teapot, the inner ring on the left side oxidized and burned a few millimeters. To restore the contact surface, it is enough to clean it up to the shine with sandpaper. Ring contact became poor due to insufficient clips and oxidation of the contact in the stand.

Flat contact plates in the support node are fastened with screws or hooks. To remove the plate fixed by the horses, you must first remove the plastic liner with a screwdriver, and then picing the tilt of the tilt to remove the plate.

After removing the cover from the stand and the removal of the contact plate, with which the current was fed to the burnt ring, it became apparent that the end of the plate was joined, and the contact site was very burned. The contact plate itself from heating though slightly darkened, but the spring properties did not lose. After restoring the shape of the plate and stripping the sandpaper the surface of the contact site, the plate was installed on the previous place.

After installing the contact plate, it is necessary, until the bottom is screwed to the stand, attach it to the bottom of the kettle and make sure that the contact plate is shifted for a couple of millimeters, the contact is adjacent in the center and does not cling to the walls of the stand. If everything is so, then you can screw to the bottom of the bottom and conduct testing the kettle after repair, boils water in it.

But not always so lucky. There are contacts that burned to such an extent that the stripping and straightening of the plate no longer helps and have to replace part of the plate new. On the photo on the left depicted a contact, which burned to almost the foundation. To replace, you need to cut off the plate with contact to the first bending, clean up the surface of the remaining plate using sandpaper, and fill the surface of the remaining plate.

If there is an old electric kettle and in the stand contacts in good condition, then you can use them for repair. A new replace plate can also be taken from any powerful relay, such as RPU. There are relays even with silver contacts.

Bucked from the relay plate of the desired length, bends and brought out the solder. Next, the prepared contact plate is pressed to the pre-listed plate plate, and the assembly warms up the soldering iron. As a result, the contact element of the stand becomes no worse than the new one.

After installing the contacts in the stand, it is necessary, as after the previous repairs, check the accuracy of their positioning and freedom of movement. The photo shows the stand in which they were replaced by a soldering of both contacts.

Repair of the Electrofitter Switch

Another malfunction of electrochetics with which I had to meet, this fails in the handle of the inclusion control button.

The switch may not work because the inclusion mechanism failure or key failure, which happened to the kettle, which fell into repair.

The autopsy showed that one of the axes by which the key is fixed in the handle case broke off. As can be seen in the photo, the left axis is absent. It seems immediately that it is impossible to repair the key, but if you think, it is often possible to find a way to restore the broken plastic part.

For repair from the copper wire with a diameter of 2 mm, a curly brace shown in the photo was deployed. The bracket can be made of aluminum wire and even from the nail. The diameter is selected based on the diameter of the axis of the axis in the kettle handle.

After the plastic frozen, the key was installed in the handle. The check showed that the button began to work no worse than before breakdown. Electrocarrine with daily operation works trouble-free for more than a year.

Repair of the electric kettle switch

The switch in the electrical kettle is placed on the handle or at the base. The switch may not work because of the burning of contacts, the oxidation of the bimetallic disk (when water drops, water vapor flows on it and with time the disk can be powered), weakening the flat spring or wear of plastic parts.

In the photo, the electric kettle switched out of the handle. It has small sizes and works exactly by the same principle as any wall switch. The difference only lies only that it is capable of automatically turning off when water boiling.

By the way, the switch is a complete independent product and can be used to emergency disconnect any electrical appliance when the temperature is reached in the controlled zone more than 100 ° C.

The two stable position of the switch provides a flat, curved springs arc. On the photo on the left, the kettle switch is in the upper off state. On the right picture in the lower position, when the electric kettle is included in the water heating mode. The switch of the switch is associated with the contacts and thus when switching from one stable state to another closes or unlock contacts, thus, including or turning off the kettle.

If the switch key is not fixed, it means that the flat spring is to blame. It can lose elasticity or jump out. To restore the switch, it is enough to remove a flat spring and slightly increase the radius of its arc (straighten).

Bimetallic disk is installed at the bottom of the switch. When a pair is heated from steam, the disk tongue moves upwards through the pusher presses on the engine and it moves to the upper steady position, opens the contacts, thereby turning off the power supply to the TEN.

Another malfunction that occurs in electric ketties is the burnout of the contacts in the switch. Contacts can be accommodated directly next to the switching key or deleted from it. In this case, the connection of the keys with contacts is carried out using plastic thrust.

On the photo on the left contacts of thermal protection, they practically do not work and are always in perfect condition. Right contacts of the switch that opens often and therefore always burn. For their stripping, you need a strip of sandpaper to attach to a narrow tool, for example, to the flat blade of the screwdriver and reciprocate the napcar movements. You can use the nadfil.

In the handles of some models of electrochetics, the closed-type switches are installed and it must be disassembled to stripping the contacts.

To disassemble, you need to unscrew one screw and remove the switch from the handle. Next, drown two small locks, which are located on the sides of the switch and pull out the part with contacts from the housing. Contacts will become available, and will remain only to be cleaned by the method described above. When disassembling, it is not to lose a small pusher connecting the bimetallic plate with the moving part. Without it, the kettle will not turn off.

How to eliminate leak water from an electric kettle

When repairing electrochetics, I had to deal with their flow in the following places:

in the junction of the measuring window with the housing (the repair is inexpedient, since the sealing of the cracks by any adhesive composition gives a short effect);
from the crack in the plastic case (repair at home is not subject to);
in the place of docking the metal bottom-disk with the kettle flask.

Therefore, when buying a new electric kettle, instead of failed because of the cracked body, I purchased a kettle with a glass flask. It was hoping that the electric kettle would never give an unreasonable leak, since the glass case was almost eternal with a gentle handling, and the leakage of glass docking with a metal base can be successfully eliminated.

After a few years of operation of a glass electric kettle on its contact pad after boiling water, water began to appear, which dripped and from the bottom. After each boiling, the water of water on the site increased, and droplets from the bottom of the kettle were dripping more and more. I had to do it with repair.

To determine the location of the flow of water, it was necessary to unscrew the two screws at the top of the handle and three self-pressing, holding the lower part, the electric kettle is disassembled.

After disconnecting the bottom, to continue repair, it remains only to remove the precipitated terminals from the contacts of the Tane and the overheating protection system. So that there are no problems with the assembly, before removing the terminals, you should remember or draw which of the terminals, which of the contacts was put on.

The glass flask was fastened with a bottom using silicone sealant. With a careful inspection of the connection site, it was found that at the factory as a result of the violation of gluing technology, in several places in silicone seam formed air bubbles. After one of them, water began to flow over time.

At first, I wanted to seal with silicone only the location of the flow of water, but there was no confidence that the flow would not appear in a new place. Therefore, it was decided to turn off the glass flask from the bottom, and glue them again.

With the help of the blade, Silicone knife was cut to the maximum possible depth, both in the inner seam and from the outside. After that, the glass flask with a small force was separated from the bottom.

Next, the remains of the old silicone were completely removed from the mating surfaces with the help of the knife, and then the bonded surfaces were degreased by a solvent (acetone or alcohol is suitable). If there is no solvent at hand, you can wash the surface with hot water with food soda or economic soap, and be sure to dry before gluing. In addition, the surface of the metal bottom was cleaned up to the brilliance using sandpaper.

The teapot's bottom is made of stainless steel, which was tested with the help of a neodymium magnet - did not attract to the bottom. But to my surprise, in a place where there was a leakage, a hole was formed on a photograph. How the hole could form in stainless steel, it remains a mystery to me, perhaps this is a factory marriage.

The hole was formed at the bottom of the pairing of the glass flask and the bottom and the sealant would be closed when gluing. But I decided to close the hole with a soft solder using an electric soldering iron.

Selection sealant for gluing

The surface of the parts of the electric kettle is prepared for gluing and the time of choosing a sealant, which should be harmless to the human body, to withstand the temperature to + 180 ° C and be elastic. Silicone sealants are fully consistent with the requirements.

The best of them is the food silicone glue-sealant RTV 118 Q of the American manufacturer, withstanding the temperature to + 260 ° C. But the price of a tube with a volume of 82 ml of this sealant is comparable with the cost of a new electric kettle.

The market has a silicone sealant of the Russian manufacturer of VGO-1, which is also intended to seal the joints of the pipes of hot and cold water supply, withstanding temperatures up to + 260 ° C. Silent in 300 ml tubes, but also dear and stands as a kettle half. No more than 20 ml of silicone need to seal the electric kettle, therefore it is economically advisable to acquire Tuba in the case if it is planned to use it for other works.

When choosing a silicone sealant, a reasonable question arose. Are the manufacturers of electrochetics, and all of them are made non-brand depending on the brand, use expensive food silicone? The answer is obvious, use the cheapest sealant for sealing. Therefore, it came to the conclusion that the easiest silicone sealant is quite suitable, in which there are no additives. After several boiling water, even if in sealant and there are contraindicated substances, they will all dissolve in water and silicone will become safe for the human body.

At hand, there was a universal construction silicone sealant Soudal, which decided to take advantage. In its composition there are no additives and sealant withstands the effect of temperature to + 180 ° C, which is quite enough for the heat resistance of the compound.

Electric kettle details gluing

It remains to make the most responsible step - to fill the bottom groove along the entire circumference with silicone sealant and insert a glass flask into it. Before applying the sealant of the surface, it is necessary to deflect the alcohol or solvent.

The bottom area, mating with a glass flask, was large, so after applying the strip, the sealant had to smear his screwdriver blade.

The glass flask was inserted into the groove of the bottom. Silicone surplus squeezed by the flask were removed with a vein moistened in a soap solution. Then the seams to give a beautiful view, lined with a finger moistened in soapy water. The picture shows the result of the work.

Checking the tightness tightness

Silicone in volume is usually harden at room temperature at a speed of 2 mm per day. With the fact that the seam depth in the glued electric kettle was about 10 mm, had to postpone him aside a week, and only after that test.

To check the electric kettle, it was connected to the supply network in a disassembled form, directly, without protection and control system. To do this, the terminals were put on the ends of the cord with the fork, which were then affected directly to the contacts of the Tan. The kettle was installed in the working position, the water is nanite and then the plug is inserted into the outlet. Leave the electric kettle with such an inclusion scheme unattended.

According to the diagram, all Soviet electric kettle were previously connected and had to wait until the water boils and turn them off manually by removing the plug from the outlet.

A few minutes later, the water boiled. The marks of water leaks were not observed, the silicone sealant reliably selected the location of the details. To exclude incoming from silicone seam of random harmful impurities, after assembling the kettle, it was boiled three portions of water with its full replacement.

Attention! It is unacceptable to pour into any preheated electric kettle, immediately after a complete drain of it cold water from it. Because of the thermal impact, microcracks may occur in the kettle housing, from which water will begin with time.

I note that this glass kettle after the above-described repair is perfect for more than three years. Even the contacts did not have to clean.

How to clean the electric kettle from rust

Over time, due to rusty metal water pipes, despite the transparency of water flowing from the crane and even its subsequent filtering, rust falls on the inner surface of the electric kettle. Many people do not like it, and benefit has clearly not to health.

The easiest and safest rust removal means is citric acid that is sold at any grocery store.

To remove rust, it is necessary to fill in no less than half the electric kettle with water and pour into it one citric acid.

Next, turn on the kettle and bring water to a boil. From the upper edges and the lids rusty traces can be removed with a brush dipped in boiling water. Water after boiling acquires a brown tint. If there are several teapots in the house, then water can be pouring into each of them and boil it again.

After boiling, it is necessary to give the teapot to cool, merge rusty water and rinse with clean water. As can be seen in the photo, the electric kettle began to look like a new, citric acid completely dissolved rust.

As you can see, repair the electric kettle is not at all difficult and, if you wish forces to any home master.