Wooden post with a concrete base. How to fix a wooden post to concrete: concreting the post and mounting it on the base

When building gazebos, sheds, canopies and other structures made of wood, you will inevitably have to face the problem of attaching a bearing pillar to a concrete foundation base. By far the best option for installing a wooden support post. You can consider its installation above ground level, since in the ground the wooden pillars rot.

The most widespread, in such a fastening of the post, are metal structures, referred to as an anchor to concrete, as well as a channel, corners, a strip and threaded studs for vertical beams. There are various types of such a connection, it looks like a metal reinforcement, with a diameter of 12 mm, to which a metal structure in the form of a screwed "T" is welded, in this case a slot is made in the supporting post, into which such a structure is inserted and with large bolts through and through, a node is fixed.

The next mount also has metal fittings with a welded profile in the form of an inverted letter "P"; this mount is very popular and can be purchased in stores for about 15 rubles. It can be designed for posts of various thicknesses. In addition, it must be said that fastenings in the form of the letter "L" are used, where the post is fixed on one side, and also one or two channels can be concreted, with an internal dimension, for the thickness of the post.

Another mount in the shape of the letter "H", with two crossbars, is made of metal strips. The lower part of the fastening is concreted, and a pillar is installed in the upper part between the two plates and fixed with through bolts or several screws.As for the fastening of beams in a horizontal position, threaded rods of large diameter are mainly used. A hole is drilled in the beam, and it is fixed with a nut. The above types of fastening are also possible.

There is no more traditional material for building a fence than a wooden bar. And even today, in the times of new building materials and construction methods, every third fence is built on wooden posts and slats. There are many reasons for such popularity, first of all, the very attractive appearance and the material relatively easy to process and install. Wooden posts for the fence allow to reduce the time for erection of the fence and at the same time make it an order of magnitude cheaper, which is important for owners of summer cottages and suburban areas.

Advantages and disadvantages of a fence on wooden posts

In a number of building materials, wood stands alone, is in a privileged position:

• The use of special mastics and protective impregnations allows you to display the beautiful texture of the wood;
• Wooden posts with the correct choice of the cross-section of the supports and the installation performed are capable of providing high strength of the fence at relatively low cost;
• Wooden posts can be easily combined with metal, profiled sheets, wooden laths and any other material for facing the fence.

Wooden pillars, unlike concrete or steel supports, can be installed with your own hands, while the low weight and good workability of wood allows you to make and process supports almost at home.

Important! Wood racks are extremely sensitive to excess moisture and putrefactive microflora, therefore, how long the pillars will stand in the ground depends on the quality of material processing.

There are many ways to process the material, but not all recipes give a stable and long-term effect, therefore, the method of applying a protective coating must be selected in accordance with the composition of the soil and the type of wood.

How to protect wooden fence posts from rotting

The durability of a wooden support depends primarily on the type of wood. The most resistant to decay is the wood of larch, oak, walnut. Pine, spruce, and fir can withstand the putrid environment worse. Poplar, birch, aspen are considered unsuitable for use as pillars. Experts recommend, before installing the pillars, to provide protection against the development of putrefactive microflora by the following means:

1. Impregnation in two or three doses with antiseptics based on organic solvents;
2. Treatment with salts of iron, copper, chromium, nickel, lead, creosote;
3. Coating with water-resistant protective compounds such as epoxy or pentaphthalic varnishes.

Advice! Processing is carried out, as a rule, in several stages, with drying of each layer. To install wooden poles in the most aggressive peaty soils, the lower part of the support can be wrapped in sealed plastic bags.

All kinds of drying oils, organic oils, impregnation with used engine oil, kerosene, diesel fuel are considered ineffective for protection.

Installation of wooden fence posts

Any construction of wooden fences begins with the installation of supporting elements. For fences up to 2 meters high, a square or round bar with a maximum transverse dimension of 90-100 mm is used. Higher fences of 2.5-3.0 m must be installed with concreting of the base, the cross-section of the supporting elements for blind fences must be proportionally increased by 25-30%.

For fencing a summer cottage or a country house, the following pole installation schemes are most often used:

1. Concreting in a well drilled with an auger drill to the installation depth;
2. Fixation of wooden posts by filling the well with crushed stone, rubble, broken brick, gravel screening;
3. Driving a wooden support into the ground. Such schemes are often used as temporary ones, with subsequent replacement with metal or concrete supports;
4. By installing a wooden beam inside a steel glass or pipe segment driven into the ground.

For your information! The small specific gravity of wood makes it relatively easy to install wooden poles even alone, it is much more difficult to solve the problem of how to align the supports in one plane without resorting to the help of neighbors.

We install wooden posts for a fence in concrete with our own hands

If you have to install wooden supports with your own hands, without helpers, then the easiest way would be concreting or filling with rubble stone. This method makes it easy to align the posts with a line and a pair of building levels.

Along the marked contour of the fence, you will need to drill the required number of wells with a diameter of 10-15 cm larger than the maximum size in the section of the support. The easiest way is to use a garden auger auger with a diameter of 15-20 cm. Before drilling, a steel or paper non-stretching rope or twine is pulled, pegs 20-25 cm high are hammered in. After drilling, the bottom of the well is covered with fine gravel screenings, the layer thickness is 5-7 cm. The screenings must be well tamped and leveled to get a flat bottom. Next, install the corner or extreme fence posts.

Before concreting the well, the extreme supports must be leveled in the most careful way, since all other pillars of the wooden fence will have to be placed along them. To align the support position, three main parameters are used:

• The distance from the marking line to the head of the post, so that there are no errors in height, the stretched thread must be leveled horizontally using a building level;
• Readings of two building levels in mutually perpendicular planes.

If possible, it is better to use the device shown in the photo. In its absence, you can take two building levels and fix them on the planes of a square bar with an elastic band. After aligning the pillars, the position is fixed with wooden struts or pieces of building material. The concrete is poured into the well in small portions so that the mass does not hit the wooden support beam.

In the same way, leveling is performed using a layer of gravel or rubble material instead of concrete. The fastening mass is poured and tamped in small portions, 5-6 kg each.

How to hammer and level a wooden post

For low wooden fences, it is easier to hammer the supports into the ground than to fool your head with drilling and concreting. When using oak beams, you only need to sharpen the lower end by symmetrical cutting, and you can hammer. In order not to break or split the top of the support, a board of soft wood, linden or poplar must be reinforced on the head.

As the timber clogs and settles, the position of the support must be periodically checked using a building level. While the fence post is not buried in the ground by more than a third, the slope can be corrected by the usual tamping of the side surface, at the end the soil around the post is tamped with blows of a sledgehammer.

Wooden larch posts cannot be driven directly, like oak, due to the high tendency of wood to chop. In this case, a steel pipe or scrap is preliminarily driven into the ground, and thus a thin guide hole is obtained, after which a larch fence post can be installed and driven in.

Conclusion

For heavy and dense loamy soils, the soil has to be artificially “soaked” before drilling or hammering in wooden supports. In this case, a hole is punched to a depth of 30-40 cm and periodically filled with water. After about a day, you can drill a well with your hands or hammer in wooden beams in the order described above.

The most correct version of the porch is when its foundation is cast together with the house. In this case, there are practically no problems. Sometimes, when planning a building, they forget about it. Then the porch is attached to the house. An extension is made mainly of three materials: wood, metal and concrete. If the house is brick, it can be made of bricks. Another option is to make from building blocks with subsequent finishing. In any case, when planning to make a porch with your own hands, you immediately need to decide what kind of foundation to make and connect it or not with the base of the building.

How to calculate parameters

First you need to decide which side the steps will go to. They can be on one, two or three sides. Determine this based on personal preferences and finances that you can / want to allocate for construction. The height of the porch depends on the height of the base and should be 50-70 mm below the edge of the door leaf. This small step keeps precipitation out of the house. Perhaps more importantly, it does not allow the doors to be blocked if the porch rises up from the frosty heaving (if the doors open outward).

Determining the size of the upper platform

The layout of the porch begins with determining the size of the upper platform. If the doors open outward, you should be able to stand on the landing to open the doors. That is, its depth should be 30-40 cm more than the width of the door leaf. According to the recommendations of GOST, the dimensions of the platform should be 1.5 times the width of the doorway. More is possible - less - undesirable - inconvenient.

If your doors are 80 cm wide, then the depth of the upper platform at the very minimum is 120 cm. You determine its width based on the tastes and proportions of the house, but it should definitely be larger than the width of the doorway.

We count the number and sizes of steps

You know the height of the porch: 50-60 mm below the door leaf. The recommended step height (riser) is 15-20 cm. Divide the porch height by the step height, you get an approximate number of steps. The number is rarely whole. The remaining centimeters can be divided between all steps or made one of them higher. Another option is to make a small step at the bottom, although this can be inconvenient.

The optimal step width (tread) is 25-30 cm. Knowing the number of steps, the depth of the upper platform, the depth of the steps, you can calculate the dimensions of the porch completely. They can already be used to develop the foundation under the porch.

When choosing the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to adhere to the recommendations of SNiP: the sum of the pass and the doubled riser should be within 600-640 mm. For example, you calculated that the height of the step (riser) you have is 17 cm, the tread (depth of the degree) is 280 mm. After completing the calculations, we get: 170 mm * 2 + 280 mm \u003d 620 mm. We fit into the recommended parameters, so nothing needs to be changed.

What foundation is needed

If the porch is planned to be light - wooden or metal - the foundation is most often made pile or columnar. Specifically selected based on geological conditions. On well-draining soils with a low level of groundwater, it is enough, with a tendency to heaving, it is already needed, perhaps.

For a heavy porch - made of brick or monolithic concrete - a strip foundation is made or. The type of foundation is most often the same as the one on which the house is built.

Then you need to decide if you will tie the porch foundation to the house foundation or not. Decisions are made based on the planned mass of the extension and the type of soil. Both options have disadvantages. If there is no connection, cracks often form at the junction of the porch and the house; due to frost heaving, the porch can warp. Owners of summer cottages often face such a problem - basically, the porch to the cottages is made wooden and incoherent. After the ground thaws, it may itself "sit" in place, or may require some additional measures.

When the connections are made, cracks can also form, but not only at the junction, but also in the "body" of the extension. This happens if the reinforced ties arranged cannot compensate for the uneven load created by the house and the extension. Therefore, a connected foundation for a porch is made if it is attached to a heavy house and itself is heavy and massive, made of reinforced concrete. The second difficulty with such a decision is to make the connection of high quality. For this, ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm is used, under which holes are drilled in the foundation with a given diameter. They clog the reinforcement and, on its basis, knit a frame for the porch.

There are two main ladder designs: bowstring and stringer. They can be made of wood, metal. There are also combined options - metal + wooden steps or metal + concrete steps.

Ladder constructions - on bowstrings and on stringers

On bowstrings

Bowstring stairs are the simplest. For a porch - a good option, especially if the house is wooden or a small country house. Support bars are attached to the inside of the bowstring. If you work with metal, the bars are welded horizontally (it is possible with a minimum slope of 1-2 ° in order for water to drain off the steps). In the case of wood, support bars can either be nailed, to which the step will then be attached, or grooves are cut in the bowstring (no more than 1/2 of the board's thickness), into which the step boards are inserted.

On kosoura

A staircase on kosoura can also be of a simple design - with open supports. In this case, triangles are cut at the required angle at the top of the board. Their lower part serves as a support for the steps.

When cutting the kosour, the height of the step and the width of the tread are laid. They are connected at right angles. A template is made according to the markings, with which all the steps are marked.

The number of stringers in a staircase depends on its width and on the thickness of the boards used for the steps. The thinner the board for the steps, the more often you need to put stringers. If you use 25 mm boards, then there should be a distance of no more than 50-60 cm between the two supports. If you need a wide staircase, but do not want to put three stringers, use thicker boards. It is important that they do not bend under your feet.

If you decide to weld a staircase on kosoura from metal, you will need to be patient: you will have to weld many small sections, but the principle of formation is the same.

Ways of fastening parts

The bottom edge of the porch staircase can sometimes rest directly on the ground. This option is simple but unreliable. First, the soil may settle, the stairs will collapse. Secondly, upon contact with the ground, both wood and metal are destroyed faster. There are special impregnations for wood (Senezh and Senezh Ultra, for example), and metal is well formed with a primer and painted in several layers. Nevertheless, it is better to make a base - pour a shallow tape on which the bowstrings or stringers will rest.

There are two ways to attach the stairs for the porch to the reinforced concrete base - to the bed - a bar with a cross section of at least 75 * 75 mm or to a foundation bar of a smaller section (in the photo on the left).

Difficulties may arise with the installation of porch pillars. There are several ways. There is one very simple and effective one that works great even on heaving soils (clay and loam). Holes 50-60 cm deep are dug under the pillars. A bucket and a half of sand is poured into them on the bottom, and it is tamped well. Half a bucket of rubble is poured over the sand and also rammed. They put a post, align it to a level, put spacers that will hold it in a given position. The space between the wall of the hole and the pillar is gradually covered with rubble, carefully ramming it. The hole is filled flush with the ground, the top can be concreted (so that precipitation does not drain), but not spilled to the very bottom. The pillars installed in this way do not lead even with strong heaving. A significant part of the water goes into the sand, and the crushed stone takes over the remaining forces of frost heaving, neutralizing them.

If piles, a strip foundation or a monolithic slab are poured under the pillars of the porch, a columnar base is folded, then studs or special glasses are walled up in concrete for fastening wooden racks. After the concrete has matured, the bars of the racks are attached to them with wood grouses or bolts.

If the racks are metal, a corner with a wall thickness of at least 3-4 mm is laid in concrete so that it can be easily cooked to it later.

When building a wooden porch with your own hands, questions may arise about fixing railings and balusters. They can be assembled on ordinary nails, but if desired, you can use bolts or wood grouses. In this case, holes are pre-drilled, then fasteners are installed in them and tightened with an angle wrench. Such a connection is definitely more reliable than just nails.

If the porch is attached to a freshly cut wooden house in which shrinkage has not yet been completed, and the porch design provides for the presence of a canopy, the racks must be fastened to special adjustable plates.

Please note that both the metal and wood that you will use to build your porch require careful processing. The porch is exposed to all climatic influences and the materials require good protection.

Monolithic concrete stairs

The most durable stairs are made of monolithic concrete. It takes more time to make them than metal or wooden ones, but their service life is calculated in decades. The types of concrete stairs are described in detail in the video. The basis of the calculation is also given.

How to make a concrete staircase on kosoura with your own hands, see the next video.

Wooden porch

A porch made of wood is one of the most common options in our country. Wood is plastic, easy to handle, costs relatively little (in our country), forgives many mistakes. That is why it is a favorite building material.

It also has disadvantages: it requires good protection before starting construction (antibacterial impregnations and flame retardants), as well as regular maintenance - renewal of the protective paintwork. Then it looks attractive for a long time, otherwise it quickly loses its decorative effect.

One of the options for building a wooden porch with a ladder on bowstrings can be seen in the video. We draw your attention to the fact that the porch is being built on sandy soil, so the used method of installing the pillars is not suitable for everyone. Otherwise, everything is clear.

Brick porch

Since brick is a dense and heavy material, a serious foundation is required under a brick porch. Usually it is a monolithic slab, and with double reinforcement and it is better if it is larger in size than the planned porch.

When calculating the parameters of the steps, it is necessary to take into account the size of the brick and the thickness of the seam between them. Then it will be easier to lay it - no need to cut the brick. If you are not going to cover the porch, use quality material for the outer rows. Inner rows - backing up - can be made from combat or building blocks and their remains.

Brick porch with wooden steps

If the house is on a high plinth, making a monolithic brick porch is too expensive. Then the columns or walls are folded, leaving an empty space inside. It can then be used for household purposes or covered with decorative shields. If you need an upper platform, from above these columns / walls are covered with a concrete slab - homemade or ready-made - this is your choice. Then a ladder is attached to the resulting base. It doesn't have to be brick. It can be metal, concrete or combined.

Photo report: wooden porch on a metal frame

Theory is just theory and in construction too. You always understand the essence of the matter better if you observe the process on your own, because you can see how others are doing and learn something for yourself.

At the request of the parents, an exact copy of the old porch was made. The only difference is that a metal frame is welded for the new one.

On the site of the demolished porch, a foundation pit was dug 25 cm deep. Sand was poured and rammed into the bottom layer by layer, 10 cm crushed stone on top of it. A metal mesh with a cell of 10 cm was laid on top, and all this was filled with concrete.

A metal frame is welded according to the previous dimensions of the porch (from a corner of 70 * 5 mm). The sides are set vertically and secured with studs. Further, the base for the benches is welded to them. All metal is treated with a rust converter, covered with primer and painted twice.

The wood was used for construction dry. Planed boards were cut to size (porch width) and impregnated for direct contact with the ground.

We lay the dried boards on the frame. You have to drill a hole for each fastener - you just can't take a corner.

At this stage, two mistakes were made at once. The first is that the skin was not started from the sidewalls. They immediately began to lay the steps. As a result, water constantly flows into the joints of the side cladding and steps and the wood is barked. It is necessary to start the cladding from the sides, and make the steps a little longer so that they protrude beyond the side cladding by at least a couple of centimeters. The second mistake - the boards on the porch are stacked close to each other. At high humidity, they swell and the surface becomes uneven. When installing the porch sheathing, make gaps of at least 5-8 mm.

After all the boards are fixed, they are sanded. First with a coarse-grain belt sander, then a disc sander with a fine grain. The process is lengthy. In parallel, the task is being solved - to remove the green color of the impregnation. It does not even overlap with three layers of tint.

After sanding, we start painting. Apply three times. Each layer after complete drying of the previous one. As a result, the color is dark mahogany.

While the paint dries completely, we start making benches. We cut the boards under them, grind the oblique bevel (for beauty), cover with impregnation.

We make the backs with a small decor - rounding along the edges.

We saw along the marked lines with a jigsaw, then we grind to a smooth edge.

The sides are covered with plywood, which has been painted the same color. The porch is ready.

DIY finished wooden porch - side view

DIY brick-concrete porch: photo

The walls of the staircase were pre-made of bricks, on top of which a monolithic concrete slab was poured. Along the edge, a frame from the corners is monolithic into it - so that the stairs and railings can be welded.

Porch plan: how everything should look

From a corner of 70 * 70 * 5 mm, we cut the workpieces of the required length. Then we treat them with a rust converter. We begin to cook after the reaction has stopped and the metal has dried.

We welded the first metal bowstring.

The finished sidewall was attached to the concrete base with two pins.

Fastening to a concrete support support

In the same way, we cook the second bowstring and fix it. When working, make sure that the two bowstrings are in the same plane.

We begin to weld the support bars. It is important to constantly monitor the horizontal position so that the steps are not oblique.

We weld the transverse pieces of the corner to the support bars so that a shelf is obtained.

The corners are welded to form a frame. We put a piece of sheet slate in it. We lay out a reinforcing metal mesh on the slate. Weld the edges of the mesh to the frame.

Pour concrete into the prepared steps. We make it high-quality so that the steps do not wear out longer.

While the concrete is gaining strength, we take up the racks that will support the canopy over the porch. For them, we take a profiled pipe 70 * 40 * 3 mm. We cut four columns from it. Two are slightly longer - they will be near the wall of the house, two are 15 cm shorter - they stand along the outer edge of the porch, creating the necessary slope - so that the water and snow melt normally. For handrails and crossbars, we use a profiled pipe 40 * 40 mm.

All metal is also treated with a rust converter.

First, we set up the racks, grab them, install temporary stops

In order to avoid lateral stresses, it is important to set the racks strictly vertically. We expose them, grab them, in several places with short seams, check again whether they are standing correctly. We weld on temporary stops and only after the next check we weld in accordance with all the rules.

After all the posts are set up and welded, you can assemble the railing. At the desired height, they are fixed strictly horizontally.

Then we proceed to the installation of the roof. We also cook it from a 40 * 40 mm profile pipe. First, the strapping around the perimeter - at the level of the shorter racks, then - the rest of the structure. It is not difficult, but it takes a lot of time - many intersections.

Then it was the turn of the handrail and decoration. And again, there are no difficulties, it can handle it easily if desired.

Everything, the porch is ready for finishing work. Rough tiles for outdoor use were purchased on the steps and landing. The sidewall of the monolithic slab was also trimmed with it.

The metal was painted with a matching paint, the roof was covered with corrugated board, which remained after the installation of the roof. The porch with my own hands turned out to be good.

Photo ideas for the design of the porch

Porch to a wooden bathhouse or cottage - a staircase made of logs

Porch lined with WPC - wood-polymer composite

Question. Hello! A neighbor in the country put up a wooden fence and poured concrete round wooden posts. Tell me, is it possible to fill wooden poles with concrete?

Answer. Good day! Fence posts are poured with concrete so that they do not squint from time and load of the fence. Therefore, the wooden poles are not just "allowed", but "must" be poured with concrete. The only question is the preparation of such pillars for contact with concrete. Below is the technology for installing wooden posts for a fence "on concrete".

The best wood species for posts are oak or larch. Oak and larch, even in their untreated form, are highly resistant to decay. However, for reliability, the part of the post located in the concrete should be treated with two layers of BT 577 bitumen varnish or two layers of MBI bitumen mastic.

The length of the part of the post, buried in the pit, is taken to be approximately 30% of its total length. In this case, the surface should be covered with mastic or varnish in the format of 30% of the total length plus 5-8 centimeters to ensure reliable protection against splashes of rain and snow.

With a high standing of groundwater, the column is deepened below the depth of freezing of the soil in a given area, and drainage is poured onto the bottom of the hole - fine gravel with a layer of 20 cm.

It is best to drill with a hand-held garden drill with a 200-250 mm diameter nozzle. A garden drill can be purchased at your local gardening store or online store. The need for this tool in a private house arises constantly, so it should be in the arsenal of every private household.

So, the wooden posts and holes in the ground have been prepared, you can either buy ready-made concrete or proceed to independently preparing the concrete solution. The following materials and tools will be required:

• portland cement CEM I 32.5N PC (old marking M400);
• sand;
• small gravel or construction waste (broken brick, broken tiles, etc.);
• halves of red brick (fight);
• water;
• building level;
• putty knife;
• bucket;
• shovel;
• steel trough or iron sheet;
• a piece of reinforcement with a diameter of 12-20 mm, a length of 1.5 meters (rammer).

In a trough or on a sheet of iron, the components of concrete are mixed in the following proportions: 3 buckets of rubble, 3 buckets of sand, 1 bucket of Portland cement and about 0.5 buckets of water. Everything is thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous creamy mass. More water can be added if necessary.

The post is placed in the hole, vertically aligned and fixed with brick halves driven between the post and the ground. Further, the volume of the hole between the post and the ground is filled with concrete and “bayoned” with a piece of reinforcement.

An important point! The pillar is poured 3-5 centimeters above the ground level. The part of the filling protruding above the ground is smoothed with a spatula "from the column to the soil surface", ironed and covered with polyethylene for 2-3 days.