Paving slabs at home: from shape to DIY installation. How to make paving slabs with your own hands at home - step by step instructions Technology for the production of paving slabs at home

The production of a facing material of this type is laborious, but at the same time, technologically, it does not represent anything particularly complicated. You will need the following tools and equipment for self-casting of paving slabs for the yard of a house or summer cottage:

concrete mixer;
buckets and shovel;
vibrating table.

Also, of course, you will have to purchase or make your own tile molds. Of the materials for the manufacture of such a facing material, you will need:

fine gravel;
sand;
cement;
oil for lubricating molds;
pigment dye;
plasticizer.

The main stages of manufacturing

Pouring concrete paving slabs with your own hands is supposed to be approximately according to the following technology:

a mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer;
install forms on a vibrating table;
grease the forms with oil;
include a vibrating table;
wait until the mixture is evenly distributed in the form;
leave the tiles to dry inside the molds for 1-2 days.

The finished facing material is removed from the molds and left to dry for several days. Further, the tiles are used for their intended purpose.

How to properly prepare the mixture

It is recommended to make concrete mortar for paving slabs exclusively in a concrete mixer. Unfortunately, it will be practically impossible to make a high-quality mixture for casting such a facing material by hand.

When using manual kneading technology, the solution will not be particularly homogeneous anyway. Accordingly, the tiles made from it will not have too good performance characteristics.

Prepare a concrete mass for the manufacture of paving slabs in the proportion of cement / fine gravel / sand as 1/1/2. At the same time, they take enough water so that the finished solution has the consistency of wet cottage cheese.

It is highly discouraged to dilute the prepared concrete mixture with too much water in any case. Otherwise, the tile in the future will turn out to be fragile and in the process of operation will begin to rapidly deteriorate. It is necessary to use a thick mixture for the manufacture of paving cladding. Subsequently, during vibration compaction in molds, concrete will still become much more liquid and plastic.

What are plasticizers for?

This ingredient must be present in a solution intended for the manufacture of paving slabs. A plasticizer is needed to increase the fluidity and elasticity of the solution without the need for additional water addition.

When using such a substance, the cement mixture becomes denser and stronger. And this, in turn, of course, has the most positive effect on the quality of the finished paving slabs.

Preparing the plasticizer for casting

It is supposed to use such mixtures in the preparation of mortar for tiles in very small quantities. Contained in the finished mass of plasticizers should only be about half a percent. If more of this type of mixture is added to the solution, the finished tile, as with an excess of water, may turn out to be too fragile.

Of course, a plasticizer for a tile mortar, among other things, must also be properly prepared. Such mixtures are sold in specialized stores in dry form. Before adding to the cement mixture, they must be diluted with water.

To prepare the plasticizer:

water heated to 40 ° C is poured into some container;
the dry mixture is poured there;
everything is thoroughly mixed for at least 15 minutes with a construction mixer.

Prepare a plasticizer in the manufacture of paving slabs in the proportion of water / dry mixture as 2: 1. After mixing, the solution must also be insisted for several hours.

A plasticizer for a tile solution is usually prepared in the evening. In this case, in the morning this ingredient can simply be stirred for 15 minutes and added to the mixture.

What is a vibrating table

Equipment of this type, if desired, can be made by hand. The structural elements of a vibrating table designed for pouring paving slabs are:

frame welded from a steel corner;
metal sheet laid on top of the frame on spring or rubber shock absorbers;
eccentric motor.

The width and length of the "table top" of such equipment are selected depending on the size of the future tiles. One vibrating table, designed for making such a cladding with your own hands, is usually designed for 4-6 molds.

A quick guide to filling shapes

Tile molds are placed on the table close to each other. This arrangement makes it easier to fill them in the future.

After the molds are installed on the vibrating table, they are thoroughly lubricated with some kind of oil - vegetable oil or even, for example, just ordinary working off. This procedure makes it possible to obtain tiles with a perfectly flat surface in the future.

In addition, when using oil in the manufacturing process, the paving slabs will not stick to the walls and bottom of the mold. And this, in turn, further facilitates the removal of the finished facing material.

The cement-sand mortar prepared in a concrete mixer is laid with a trowel in the center of the molds. After all containers are filled, turn on the vibrating table. Such equipment should work to obtain high-quality tiles for at least 3-4 minutes. After turning on the table, the mixture under the influence of vibration begins to be evenly distributed over the forms.

After a white "foam" appears on the surface of the cement mixture in the containers, the table can be turned off. Followed by:

cover molds with a solution with a film or, for example, a piece of plywood;
during the day, periodically water the solidified tiles with water in order to avoid the appearance of surface cracks on them.

The finished facing material is taken out of the molds most often on the second day after pouring. The hardened tiles are placed in a dry, dark place and left to ripen for at least 5 more days.

Use of pigments

Actually, concrete itself, as you know, has a not very pleasant gray color. In order for the finished tile, intended, for example, for a garden path, to turn out aesthetically pleasing, pigment dyes are often added to the cement mortar, among other things.

Unfortunately, such compositions are quite expensive. Therefore, to reduce the cost of the finished tile in its manufacture, the following technology for coloring the solution is sometimes used:

divide the concrete mixture into two halves;
pigment is added to one of the parts, and the second is left unpainted.

Subsequently, when pouring into the mold, first put a colored solution and turn on the vibrating table. After the mixture is distributed over the surface of the container, add the uncolored mixture.

When using this technology, a relatively inexpensive, beautiful colored tile with a common gray concrete "base" is obtained. Such a cladding looks no worse than a completely painted one.

Is it possible to do without a vibrating table?

When using such equipment, homemade, hand-made tiles, of course, are of the highest quality. In addition, the use of a vibrating table also greatly facilitates the procedure for making such a cladding. However, there is such equipment, of course, not in every household.

The vibration tables used for the manufacture of paving slabs are quite expensive. Assembling them with their own hands to many owners of suburban areas who decide to cover the courtyard with paving slabs may seem like an unnecessary procedure. Indeed, in the future, the vibrating table on the farm may not be useful.

In order not to waste extra money and time, many owners of country houses simply make tiles with their own hands without using a vibrating table. In this case, the following method of casting paving cladding is used:

the form is set on a regular table;
impose the first small portion of the mixture into the container;
carefully level the solution with a trowel;
impose the next portion of the concrete mixture.

Thus, fill the form with a solution to the brim. Then they begin to compact the mixture, raising the edge of the container with sharp frequent movements and lowering it with a not too strong impact on the table.

Compaction of the mixture in a mold by hand, just like when using a vibrating table, takes a long time. This will significantly increase the strength of the finished facing products.

In any case, it should take at least 4 minutes to go to the procedure for compacting the mixture. After the solution in the form becomes liquid, it is additionally smoothed with a spatula, while removing the excess. After two days, as with the use of a vibrating table, the frozen tiles are removed from the molds.

The final stage

After removing the finished tile, the surface of the molds usually remains reasonably clean. However, it is imperative to wash such containers after finishing the manufacture of paving cladding material. Moreover, it is advisable to do this immediately.

If the molds are not cleaned, pieces of concrete adhering to their bottom and walls will negatively affect the quality of the next batch of tiles. The containers intended for the manufacture of paving lining are usually washed either with warm water or with a strong saline solution.

Concrete slabs for paths and platforms are used everywhere today. However, its price does not always correspond to the quality. Purchased specimens often do not withstand repeated freezing cycles and crack after 2-3 years. To provide yourself with quality paving stones, you need to learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands. The process does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and materials. The main thing is to understand the production technology, choose the form and knead the "correct" solution.

The technology for manufacturing paving slabs is quite simple. However, there are many nuances that must be taken into account when planning to organize the production process.

Facing the site with paving slabs

Vibration casting or vibrocompression: choice of method

The process of creating paving slabs has two main directions: vibrocompression and vibrocasting. Technologically, they are characterized by some differences, which affects the characteristics of the finished product.

The first method involves the use of expensive equipment - a vibration press and a heat chamber. A solution with a small amount of water is fed into the mold, compacted, subjected to pressure and vibration. After that, the workpieces enter the drying chamber. At elevated temperatures and high humidity, the boards gain strength sufficient for laying in places with intense stress.

Vibration casting technology assumes the compaction of the working mixture under vibration - the solution is evenly distributed in the shape and compacted. The filled molds are transferred to drying racks and the finished tiles are removed after two days.

Vibrocompression of paving slabs

Making paving slabs at home is possible only by vibratory casting. For work, you can use inexpensive tools and equipment, and make a vibrating table with your own hands.

The production cycle consists of the following stages:

Mold preparation.
Mixing of concrete mix.
Forming on a vibrating table.
Exposure and drying in molds - about two days.
Stripping of tiles.

Important! Tiles made using "vibration technology" are optimal for the formation of garden paths and paths. It is not suitable for a parking lot, since it is inferior in strength characteristics to pressed products.

Homemade vibrated paving stones

Equipment and tools for organizing the process

The feasibility of purchasing one or another equipment depends on the expected scale of production of paving slabs at home. Nevertheless, for work you will need:

Forms. The construction market offers a wide variety of molds for home and mass production of paving stones. The material of the form determines the convenience and durability of its use:
- silicone models - the creation of complex structural surfaces, the form will withstand 50 cycles;
- plastic - simplicity of ornament, strength and durability - designed for 800 production cycles;
- polyurethane molds - hold the tile geometry well, service life - 100 cycles.

Drying rack and canopy. The place for concrete "setting" must meet a number of requirements:
- horizontal racks - distortions of the base of the forms are unacceptable;
- finding the site in the shade - exposure to sunlight is fraught with cracking of finished products;
- the presence of a canopy that protects from the rain.

Important! The minimum allowable temperature for natural drying of paving slabs is + 10 ° С.

Variety of forms for the production of tiles

To work, you will need additional equipment: a bucket, a shovel, a level and rubber gloves.

How to create tile shapes

At home, you can create a mold for paving slabs with your own hands from wood, plastic, plaster or improvised means.

Option 1. Making a wooden form from boards and plywood:

Cut out two parts from the board, the length of which is 3 cm higher than the edges of the tile itself, and the height is 2 cm more.
Two more pieces must match exactly the dimensions of the tile.
Fasten the boards with iron corners - you need to screw in the screws, which can be easily removed after the concrete has set.

Advice. When pouring mortar into a wooden mold, it is advisable to lay the reinforcement mesh in the middle of the tile thickness.

Wooden removable molds

Option 2. The easiest way to create a mold is to cut the bottom of a 5 liter plastic bottle.

The height will determine the thickness of the paving slabs. In addition, unnecessary plastic containers and packaging can be used as simple shapes. If, before pouring, a patterned mesh or leaf is laid on the bottom, then the front side will acquire a relief surface.

Plastic molds for paving slabs

Option 3. Creating a template from plaster:

Prepare a plaster mix and an approximate cladding element, for example, textured ceramic tiles with a protruding pattern.
Make a formwork out of wood according to the shape of the workpiece and insert the tiles into it.
Grease the template to prevent plaster from sticking.
Dilute the gypsum with water, adding a little plasticizer.
Pour the resulting mass into the mold.
After a day, remove the formwork and remove the tiles.

Homemade plaster template for tiles

The disadvantage of a plaster template is fragility. If struck or dropped, there is a high probability that the form will crack.

Option 4. Having the skills to work on a welding machine, it will be possible to make a simple metal structure from pieces of reinforcement or rails. Cut metal strips 5 cm wide according to the dimensions of the future tile and weld them together. Provide handles for ease of use.

Metal hexagonal shape

High-quality mortar is the basis for the durability of the boards

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs includes:

cement;
large and small filler;
dye;
plasticizer;
fiberglass;
water.

Quality cement does not contain lumps

The components are combined in a strict dosage, and certain requirements are imposed on each component.

The technology for the manufacture of paving slabs at home or in production involves the use of Portland cement grade M 500 (minimum - M 400). An important condition is the quality and "freshness" of the cement. When buying, you need to check the production date (every month the composition loses 5% of its properties), the absence of lumps and flowability.

Advice. A rapid test will help determine the quality of the cement. Knead the cement paste on alkaline mineral water and roll it out into a thin disk. Good cement will dry in a few minutes. If it took about an hour to dry, and the disc was covered with cracks, then the composition was supplemented with foreign impurities and a poor-quality binder.

Sand and crushed stone - mortar fillers

Pure granite screenings, pebbles or slag are used as coarse filler. Fine filler - quarry or river sand without clay and impurities. If, after being compressed in a fist, the sand retains the shape of a lump, this indicates a high content of clay components.

The choice of a plasticizer for making a mixture

The plasticizer for paving slabs, due to its high dispersion capacity, regulates the viscosity of the mixture, increasing the strength, durability and moisture resistance of the product. Experts recommend adding components of the brands: Plastimix F, Master Silk, "Component" to the solution. "Superplasticizer S-3" has proved itself to be excellent.

Fiber is used to reinforce the concrete solution. 12mm Micronix polypropylene fiber, 12mm shredded fiberglass or MicronixBazalt 12mm basalt fiber will do.

Important! The length of the fiberglass should not exceed the size of the coarse filler in the concrete mix.

Types of fiber used

The optimal proportions of mortar for paving slabs are shown in the table.

The ratio of the components in the solution

The nuances of tinting homemade paving stones

Mineral and organic pigments are selected for coloring the tiles. Artificial colors based on minerals have a high coloring power, resistance to chemicals and temperature extremes. Natural pigments produce muted natural tones.

Before making paving slabs, you need to decide on the method of tinting it:

coloring on the finished product;
adding dye to the green mass.

Tinting of paving slabs

The first method is quite laborious, since high-quality painting takes a lot of time. To speed up the process, you can use a spray gun, but in this case it is difficult to achieve uniform staining.

The second way is more expensive. Dry paints that provide a water-repellent finish are expensive, and about 7% by weight of the concrete will need to be added to achieve a long-lasting and rich color. Therefore, many craftsmen and manufacturers use the two-layer fill method.

The prepared form is half filled with colored concrete, and the top with colorless concrete. It is important that the interval between fillings is no more than 20 minutes. In addition to economy, this method increases the strength characteristics of the paving stone.

Step-by-step production of tiles by vibration shrinkage

We will analyze in stages how to make paving slabs at home using vibration casting technology. To make paving stones, you will need to build a simple vibrating table.

Vibrating table manufacturing scheme

Construction of a vibrating table from improvised means

The vibrating table has a design that is easy to manufacture and maintain.

To create it, you will need the following materials:

sheet steel 5-10 mm thick - under the countertop;
metal corner 5 * 5 cm - to create sides on the table;
channel with holes for fixing the motor;
pipes 4 * 4 cm with a thickness of 2 mm - support posts;
pipes 4 * 2 cm - for the manufacture of upper crossbars;
metal plates - forming the foot of the supports;
vibration springs;
bolts and washers for fixing the engine;
electric motor (IV-99E, IV-98E) with a capacity of 0.5-0.9 kW;
electric cable, switch, socket.

Manufacturing sequence:

Form preparation and mortar mixing

Before filling out the form, it is necessary to grease with a special emulsion ("Lirossin", "Emulsol") or use their substitutes:

soapy water;
vegetable oil;
engine oil.

Advice. It is undesirable to lubricate the mold with a saline solution - it leaves streaks on the surface of the product, and the template itself quickly deteriorates.

The solution is mixed in a certain sequence in compliance with temporary recommendations:

First, sand, plasticizer and dye are mixed. The kneading time is 30-40 seconds.
Crushed stone and cement are added to the dry mix. With this composition, the concrete mixer works for another minute.
Then water is gradually introduced until a sufficiently dense consistency is obtained.
The final stage is the addition of fiberglass and re-kneading within one minute.

Adding mortar components to a concrete mixer

Do-it-yourself tile mix should not flow down the trowel, but at the same time, it should be easy to fill out the form.

Vibration casting and drying of paving slabs

Paving stone forming technology:

Put the lubricated forms on a vibrating table and pour the solution into them.
Switch on vibration mode for 5 minutes.
If a white film appears on the surface of the mixture, turn off the engine. Excessive shaking can cause the solution to separate.
Rearrange the workpieces on the racks, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 2-3 days. It is imperative to check the evenness of the shelving surface. If the tile dries out on a slope, then it will not be possible to lay it evenly on the path.

Stripping homemade paving slabs

Removing the formwork of the finished product and cleaning the molds

Once the concrete has set, the tiles can be removed from the mold. To facilitate extraction, the mold with filling is lowered into a container with water heated to 60 ° -70 ° C. After five minutes, the finished product is knocked out with a rubber hammer on a soft surface - you can spread the old blanket.

"Raw" tiles are dried on the same racks for another 7 days, then folded into pallets and gaining final hardness after a month. Only then is the material ready for lining the tracks.

Pour the spent forms with saline (for 1 liter of water 30 grams of table salt), clean, rinse and put to dry.

Paving slabs with river stones

Decorative tiles with stone: master class

On a suburban area, paving stones in a landscape style with the use of river stones look beautiful. The simple technology of making paving slabs with your own hands, the available composition of the mixture and natural materials allow you to embody the idea in your country house.

When the composition is ready, press the stones into the solution.
Cover the molds with cellophane and leave to dry for four days. Water the workpieces twice a day.
When the tiles begin to move away from the formwork, the product can be removed and dried without a mold.

Composing and tamping stones

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a fascinating process. Guided by step-by-step instructions, it will be possible to create an original and high-quality product designed for a long service life in the yard or garden. If you are not sure of success, it is worthwhile to study the topic in more depth, in consultation with experts.

Homemade tile from Kostya9
Homemade vibrating table and homemade tiles from Commander

Homemade tile from Kostya9

Kostya9 Participant of FORUMHOUSE

To implement the idea, profile network resources were studied on the topic of forms and the portal forum, on the topic of the process itself - the necessary equipment, raw materials base, production technology. As it turned out, plastic and other forms are available, whatever you want, the main materials remained from the construction site, and the existing units require relatively simple, feasible refinement. Unforeseen complications arose only with the purchase of the 500th cement - due to low demand, local traders simply did not have it, they had to go to a neighboring town.

Manufacturing

To make the tile as strong as possible, a circular saw was redone for the vibration table - the working surface was replaced with a heavy plate (with springs from nine racks), under the plate - a vibration motor. A typical concrete mixer for preparing a solution, ready-made polymer forms, with an imitation of the surface of sandstone, for drying - an old refrigerator, placed sideways.

The ratio of the proportions of concrete was also selected on the forum.

In addition to the existing dropout, washed river sand and purchased cement of the required grade, a plasticizer was required for the tile, the choice fell on SP-1. This is a universal additive that improves the characteristics of the mortar, its use increases the mechanical strength of concrete, reduces the number of pores on the surface, gives smoothness and increases the vibration efficiency. Although dreamed of colored tiles, the cost of the dye and white cement, in order to obtain a rich color, was forced to do with a natural, gray tint.

The mixing proportions are as follows:

Screening (crushed stone of fraction 0-5) - 38 kg (three ten-liter buckets);
Sand (river, washed) - 18 kg (one ten-liter bucket);
Cement (M-500) - 17 kg (fourteen liter bucket);
Plasticizer - 80 grams per batch (diluted with a liter of warm water);
Water - 8.5 liters (if the weather is hot, another 0.7 liters).

Mixing technology:

Screenings (all) are put into the concrete mixer first;
Water is poured in;
A plasticizer is added;
The mixture is thoroughly mixed;
Cement is added;
Thorough mixing again;
Sand is added;
Last mixing (add water if necessary).

The consistency of the solution turns out to be quite thick, reminiscent of wet earth - this is a conscious choice, although many prefer to work with more fluid solutions.

Kostya9

Liquid concrete, that liquid mud– no strength.

The molds pre-lubricated with engine oil (in the corners, with a brush) are exposed on a vibrating table. The mortar must be filled evenly.

Processing time is from three to seven minutes. Vibration should not only compact the mixture, but also expel air bubbles from it. In the process of processing, the forms change places and rotate around their axis - so that the effect is uniform. As it shrinks, the mortar is added until the form is filled to the end, you can swat it down with your hand to ensure that there are no voids left. From the vibrating table, the forms are sent for more than a day (25-30 hours) to the dryer. On the advice of the members of the branch, the old refrigerator, also known as the drying chamber, was turned over from the side, onto the "back", this greatly simplified the process of laying and removing the product.

After this period, the finished tile easily loses its shape thanks to the lubrication, and thanks to the ongoing hydration processes that keep the raw material hot. If you overexpose the tile and it cools down, it will be more difficult to get it out of the plastic - you will have to pour boiling water over it so that the plastic expands. However, if you overexpose it not for a couple of hours, but for a couple of days, and it has time to cool completely, it will be difficult to remove it, even using boiling water.

Having stuffed his hand on a square tile, the craftsman switched to curly and decided to use chromium oxide as a dye.

The first test of adding a dye at the rate, at the rate of 1% of the binder (170 grams per batch), practically did not give any result. It was not a color that appeared, but a light, almost imperceptible shade, so the dosage was doubled, which gave the desired greens. Like the plasticizer, the dye was previously diluted in water.

Homemade tile from Commander

Commander FORUMHOUSE Participant

He covered the barn, the yard, the paths to the greenhouses with tiles of his own making. Very good and profitable!

And in this case, a homemade vibrating table was used. Here's a recipe for anyone interested:

Motor - from the washing machine (on rubber shock absorbers);
From her - a pulley for a belt transmission from the engine to the eccentric;
Eccentric - the former rotor of the electric motor: cut off with a 1/3 grinder, machined a cage for bearings, welded holders, the whole structure is bolted to an iron sheet;
On top of the sheet / table - wood flooring 60x60 cm (for tiles 50x50 cm);
High sides - so that you can make tiles with a thickness of 6 cm.

For household purposes - paths in the shed, in the garage, along the edges, the Commander makes a large, square tile 50x50 cm in size, and for decorative paths resembling sidewalks - figured. The molds, as in the first version, are polymeric, soft - unlike hard plastic ones, they do not break for several years.

The composition of the solution and the proportions for the batch:

Gravel is a bucket;
Cement - bucket;
Elimination - 3 buckets;
Plasticizer - 2/3 cup;
Water.

Water is poured into a working mixer, a plasticizer is added, the next is gravel, and after wetting the gravel, cement. When the mixture is homogeneous, screenings are added. The commander does not add sand, as there is a large amount of dust in the screenings, which replaces it and prevents the formation of voids. Forms are lubricated with palm oil before use, and as soon as they become dirty, they are easily washed with Karcher. But they become contaminated if the technology is violated and the tiles cannot withstand the prescribed day, so it is better not to rush.

Good afternoon, dear users of the site rems-info.ru. Today's article will focus on how to make concrete paving slabs with your own hands at home using a small set of special equipment. In fact, having studied the technology that will be described, you can make a concrete product of any shape and for any purpose.

So, let's begin.

Of the special equipment for the manufacture of paving slabs, we need:

Vibrating table
Concrete mixer
Plastic or silicone molds
A tub with a boiler sheathed with insulation.

You will also need:

Buckets
Shovel
Master OK
Brush
Grease container
Plasticizer container
Cloth rag.

Required materials:

Sand
Cement
Plasticizer
Lubrication.

Now a little more about everything.

A concrete mixer is needed in order to mix the solution. This can be done in another way. The first is to use a drill with a mixer attachment. The second option is to use the strength of your muscles to thoroughly mix the solution using a shovel. The disadvantages of the two described methods are mostly poor mixing and slow progress of work. In addition, labor costs increase.
Silicone or plastic molds will help us create the desired product. You just need to pour concrete solution into them.

Forms for concrete products are sold in specialized stores. Using silicone, you can create the shape yourself. To do this, it is enough to coat the finished product with silicone and subsequently make copies of it. How exactly this is done, we will describe in another separate article. Stay tuned for site updates!

In order for the solution in the mold to be evenly distributed over its entire surface and to fill all the depressions and protuberances, the mold should be thoroughly vibrated. This is what the vibrating table is used for. It features a sturdy metal frame. A vibration motor is attached to this frame. Attached to the top of the engine is a second metal frame, which is suspended from the first at the base. The suspension is organized with hooks and rubber rings. The work table is directly attached to this suspended frame. When the vibration motor is running, the suspended frame together with the table begins to shake violently. Without a vibrating table, your concrete products will be of poor quality, or they will fall apart right in your hands! There is little to replace such a table with. The usual shaking in the hands is ineffective!

DIY materials for making paving slabs

The description says: you need water, sand, cement. I think everyone understands that these ingredients are the main leaving behind the concrete mix. However, there is also a plasticizer. Why is it needed?

This additive accelerates the rate of concrete hardening. It becomes stronger and more flexible. Its presence in a concrete mixture intended for the manufacture of paving slabs, etc. especially relevant! As for the lubricant: it is necessary so that after hardening the concrete product is easier to remove from the mold. If you do not use lubricants, your tile will either be very difficult to remove, or even become unusable during the removal from the mold due to a split.

It is necessary to rub the molds with grease before pouring. In this case, it is important to wipe the entire surface with a cloth rag afterwards. If this is not done, excess lubricant can cause a large number of bubbles on the surface of the manufactured paving slabs. The grease should be in a very thin layer and always evenly!

We won't talk much about the rest of the inventory: buckets and a shovel for mixing the solution; trowel for pouring it; a brush, a cloth rag and a container for grease will be needed to apply the aforementioned product; the plasticizer container will allow you to more accurately determine the amount of additive required.

Technology for making paving slabs at home

We rub the form with grease, wipe it with a rag. We put it on a vibrating table. Pour a concrete mixture into it, with a plasticizer added in advance. The ratio of sand and cement is 1: 2. We turn on the vibrating table. Let the forms “shake” for about 3 minutes. After pouring the mold, lay it out to dry. After about 16 hours, in a normal warm, dry environment, the product can be removed from the molds. A tub filled with water will help speed up the removal process.

This bucket should be glued over with insulation, such as expanded polystyrene. This ensures that the water in the tub will not cool quickly. You can heat water with a simple household boiler. Of course, purchasing a boiler is the most powerful. For convenience, a metal mesh can be laid at the bottom of the tub.

So that you do not get an electric shock during work, be sure to make grounding !!!

After heating the mold, holding it in hot water for about 5 minutes, carefully remove the product from it. Then take it to dry. The finished block of paving slabs should lie for about a month in a dry, shaded place before use. During this time, it will gain strength and be ready to make your walkway or garage entrance not only convenient, but also beautiful and practical.
With this technology, you are able to make any concrete product. The main thing is to have forms.

For those who like experimenting, I will say right away: "You will not be able to replace the concrete with a gypsum mixture and achieve the same result using this technology!"

The advantages of the technology lie in the fact that for less money you get a tile that is many times superior to that offered by the factories. Since on an industrial scale, paving slabs are mainly produced using dry pressing technology. As a result, the appearance of such a tile cannot be called beautiful. Well, in the end, the main plus is your own pride, which you will definitely experience if you do everything yourself.

Self-made paving slabs.

To get a visual representation, here is a short video commentary "Making paving slabs with your own hands."

Good luck in all your endeavors!

Paving slabs are a beautiful material with which you can refine your summer cottage. But today, not everyone can afford to buy high-quality tiles, and buying the cheapest option is not at all rational.

DIY paving slabs

But there is a way out - make paving slabs in the country with their own hands. For this, of course, you will have to work hard, but the result will surely please you. What is needed for this, and what materials will be needed for this?

Do-it-yourself paving slabs in the country

How to make paving slabs - where to start?

Making paving slabs is a rather long, exhausting, but at the same time exciting process. As a result, you can get exclusive, beautiful and original products that will become a real decoration of your territory. It is worth noting that such a tile is not suitable for covering parking lots or places where heavy machinery is installed, but it helps to arrange pedestrian paths in the garden, near the house or in the garden.

See also: Garden paths with your own hands at low cost

If you use the concrete mix correctly and strictly adhere to the manufacturing technology, then the strength and durability of the products are guaranteed to you.

What is needed to build a tile? Let's figure it out.

Materials. To make paving slabs in the country with your own hands, you need to stock up on cement. It is better to use the M 500 brand, which is distinguished by quality and reliability. You will also need sand and water. How much do you need? Depends on the number of tiles, therefore calculations are carried out on an individual basis. Experts advise using plasticizers - substances that hold the composition together, making it as hard as possible.
Forms for filling. These forms can be purchased at any specialty store at an affordable price. It is better to take 20 pieces at once so that the manufacturing process does not drag on for months.
Tool. You will need a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. If you have a concrete mixer, things are much easier, especially when it comes to a large number of tiles.

Do-it-yourself paving slabs at the dacha - how to knead the solution?

It is important to mix all the ingredients gradually to make a good solution. First, sand and cement are mixed in equal proportions, and then water is added. To avoid the formation of lumps, the stirring process must not be stopped. If you overdo it with water, the quality and strength of the mortar will drop dramatically, so it is recommended to add water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber.

How to paint a tile in a different color? For this, inorganic pigments are used, which can also be purchased at any store. The amount of paint is selected by the test method. At first, a small amount of pigment is poured in and its dose gradually increases. When the color becomes saturated and suits your taste preferences, then you can stop. Once the composition is ready, it can be poured into molds. How to do it?

A baking dish, like a concrete dish, needs lubrication. The inner surface is treated with any (machine, emulsol, etc.) oil. This will enable the composition to spread faster over the surface, acquiring the correct features. Bubbles always appear in the solution, which must be removed. This is done using a vibrating table. If it is not possible to purchase such equipment, then you can use a simple method that many gardeners use: put the forms with the solution on the shelves, on which you lightly knock with a mallet. Excess air will instantly come out, and the surface of the product will be smooth.

For the first three days, the solution is stored under plastic wrap and poured over with water. Then it is opened and left to dry in a dark place for about 3 weeks. If the weather is very hot, the tiles will be ready even faster. All that remains is to free it from the molds and use it in construction.

We hope that our advice on how to make paving slabs in the country with your own hands will help transform your summer cottage with beautiful paths.

Calculation of mortar for pouring paving slabs

So, having acquired the forms, you can calculate the composition of the concrete for pouring them. Practice has shown that the ratio of cement to the rest of the mass of the solution is better to take one to three. We use cement grade 500. It is important that it is fresh, no more than 2 months from the date of production. We take one part of it. Usually 1 kg of cement is required for 1 tile. Next, add 3 parts of coarse sand to the solution. To improve the strength of concrete, some craftsmen use the following formula:

1 part cement
2 parts sand
1 part fine gravel or crushed stone

The solution is prepared with the addition of water; it is better to use a concrete mixer for mass production. When adding water, it is advisable not to make the solution too thin or thick. After stirring, it should resemble thick sour cream. Additionally, you can use dyes for concrete and so-called plasticizers - substances that improve plasticity and reduce cement consumption. Very few of them are required, they are kneaded in a common solution. In order to better separate the concrete from the plastic molds, it is recommended to use special oils that are used to lubricate the molds from the inside. In practice, however, people use conventional practice successfully.

The most important thing here is to evenly coat all the inner sides of the mold with a brush or tampon, then the finished tile will pop out of it without much effort. It is necessary to lubricate the molds before the concrete mortar is prepared and the pouring begins. The casting molds are placed on a flat table, which is also called a vibrating table.

An important point: it is necessary to make sure with the help of a level that our table is installed strictly horizontally before pouring the forms with concrete. Then there will be no problems with skewing the molds and pouring out the solution during vibration.

DIY tile video

When the solution is ready, you need to fill in all the forms sequentially.

Having laid out the entire solution inside the forms, it should be evenly distributed and, if necessary, add or remove excess. You should not rush, it is better to check the filling of the corners with a small trowel and make sure there are no voids. Now everything is ready to turn on the vibration table, or rather, an electric motor with an eccentric fixed from below.

Under the influence of vibration, the mortar is compacted, which is very important for outdoor tiles. Air bubbles come out to the surface, cement milk protrudes from above. It usually takes a few minutes to achieve this effect. This is the merit of the vibrating table, since without it you would have to tap each form, achieving the desired effect.

Vibrating table schemes

Let's consider the scheme of a classic vibrating table.

Landscaping is one of the many tasks that arise when developing a plot of land, be it a small suburban area or a large area around the cottage. The main and irreplaceable elements of the landscape in this case are platforms and paths made by laying paving slabs.

Today the market is saturated with a wide variety of paving stones of different sizes, shapes and colors - this allows a simple walkway to be turned into an exquisite work of art. In addition, the technology for making paving stones with your own hands is quite simple, which makes it possible to produce it without any problems.

The benefits of paving stones

1. Compared to concrete or asphalt pavement, no puddles form on the paved surface.

2.if necessary, installation of equipment or laying of communications covering easy to remove and re-fit, without violating the integrity of the paving stone.

paving stones, unlike asphalt, when heated, do not emit harmful substances.

4. The laying is incomparably more attractive if it is laid neatly and correctly. Making paving stones with your own hands

Do-it-yourself paving stones are a real way to improve the site and are not particularly difficult. This is an interesting and profitable process, because how to make paving stones with your own hands is not a secret at all. The materials are available, you just need a desire to master this fascinating process.

Required materials and tools

shovel;
container for solution;
wide table;
Master OK;
forms for paving stones;
clean sand;
cement grade 500;
dry dye (pigment);
plasticizer.

Making paving stones with your own hands with a large production volume will require the use of a vibrating table and a concrete mixer. Commercial versions of these devices are relatively expensive, but it is possible to make them yourself.

Forms for paving stones

In solving the question: how to make paving stones with your own hands, you can not do without pouring forms. They can be made with your own hands or purchased, because their variety is quite large.

1. Silicone molds. They can be with a matte or glossy surface, they do not need additional fixtures in the form of formwork.

paving slabs do it yourself video

Designed for pouring paving stones for 500 cycles.

2. Plastic molds. Produced for 250 pouring cycles, they have a variety of configurations and reliefs.

3. Polyurethane molds. Designed for 80-100 cycles, however, they make it possible to cast surfaces with fine relief and details.

4. Homemade forms. Often, these shapes are made from planks, scrap metal pipes, various plastic containers, and so on.

Paving stone manufacturing technology

After all the materials and tools have been prepared, you can start manufacturing. Diy paving technology looks like this:

1. Preparing the cement slurry. In dry form, it is thoroughly mixed in a ratio of 3 to 1 sand with cement.

2. If your lane is of a different color, not gray, then a dry dye of the corresponding shade is dissolved in water in a separate container and mixed.

3. A plasticizer is also added there - for 1 kg of cement, about 10 ml, after which this liquid solution is poured into a dry mixture.

4. The solution is kneaded to a viscous consistency, if necessary, add pure water.

5. The table is positioned strictly horizontally using a level. The forms are laid out on the table, lubricated from the inside and the solution is laid out in them.

6. The vibrating table is turned on for a few minutes, or a mallet is tapped on a regular table to create vibration. As a result, the solution should be evenly distributed over the forms.

7. The forms are left to solidify for a day.

8. Stones are carefully removed from the molds so that edges and corners are not damaged.

9. Finished products are laid out on a flat surface for drying for 7-10 days under a canopy. It is recommended to spray the paving stones with water (in small drops) so that there are no cracks.

10. After this day, the paving stones with their own hands will change in color - this means that the process has been completed successfully.

Paving slabs, paving stones are a popular, easy-to-use and affordable material for decorating sidewalks, paths, playgrounds, landscape design elements on the street, in a park, in a garden, on a personal plot. It has many advantages and a wide range of applications, since it is an inexpensive, easy-to-manufacture and safe environmentally friendly coating.

Paving stones, made in compliance with all technological nuances, will be resistant to abrasion, will withstand many cycles of freezing and subsequent thawing. In addition, it is easy to install and, if the need arises, to replace the damaged areas, this can be done at any time.

Production of paving slabs

It is not difficult to make paving slabs, the technology is quite simple and allows you to get a variety of shapes, sizes and colors as a result. The production process can be sequentially divided into stages:

preparation of forms,
preparation of concrete,
molding,
aging and drying of finished products,
stripping,
storage.

The simplest and most suitable, including for home use, is the vibration casting technology using plasticizing additives. This does not require large expenditures on equipment; if you have the skills, you can make it yourself. The result is a low-porous concrete paving stone with a dense texture and an even surface. This is exactly achieved with vibration casting, when concrete is compacted under the influence of electromechanical vibrators on a special vibration table.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are concrete, first of all, you need a concrete mixer, preferably a forced type, that is, acting on the principle of a mixer. You will also need a vibrating table, casting molds and lubricant for them, concrete mix.

Molds for different sizes and configurations can be purchased freely. On sale they are rubber (they are the most durable, withstand up to 500 castings), plastic and polyurethane (about 200 production cycles). There is a great variety of them, manufacturers can also make them to order, be it shapes with a pattern, a specific surface texture or shapes for glossy paving slabs.

Lubrication is necessary for trouble-free removal of the formwork after the concrete has hardened. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The simplest lubricant is prepared as follows: 50 g of mineral oil must be mixed with 1.5 liters of water to form an emulsion. But it is important to achieve the right balance of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can spoil the appearance of the finished concrete products.

The composition of the concrete mix is the most important part of the production technology. This includes:

hard crushed stone of nonmetallic rock 3-10 mm, or, alternatively, granite screening or gravel;
cleaned washed sand;
cement grade M500;
concrete plasticizer;
dry dye;
water.

The composition of the mixture can and can be changed to obtain different properties of the final product..

Preparation of concrete mix

The recipe for paving slab mix is simple, but requires careful preparation of all ingredients and methodical adherence to the sequence of actions. It is not difficult to calculate the amount of each component if you know the required proportions of the volume of substances.

For one part of the cement, you need to take two parts of a mixture of sand and crushed stone, 0.02 parts of a plasticizer and 0.2 parts of a dry coloring pigment. The ratio of the volume of water to the volume of the dry mixture will be 2: 3, that is, three parts of the dry mixture need two parts of water. This ratio will ensure the strength of the finished concrete product and is the best fit for home production.

You can also give the following calculation of the approximate consumption of materials per square meter of finished paving slabs with a thickness of 4.5 cm:

23 kg of cement;
56 kg of crushed stone (gravel or screenings);
390 g plasticizer.

If the concrete is colored, then 1.5 kg will be needed for this amount of dye materials. Water will be added not by weight, but by the volume of dry components.

To obtain high-quality concrete, you need to follow some rules for handling plasticizer and dye. Neither plasticizer nor dye can be added dry to the mixture of cement and crushed stone. The plasticizer is diluted in hot (70-80 degrees C) water (200 g of substance per liter of water) and added in portions to the mixed concrete solution. The dye is also diluted in water (40-50 degrees C, 250-280 grams of dry dye per liter of water) and added at the same stage as the plasticizer.

Before starting the preparation of the solution, rinse the walls of the concrete mixer with water, as they must be wet. Then water is poured and, with continuous stirring, cement and sand are poured into it in parts. After obtaining a homogeneous emulsion from water and cement, crushed stone is added. In the last turn, the plasticizer and dye, diluted beforehand, are poured in. You need to mix the resulting solution until smooth, this process takes some time. If the volume of production is planned to be small, you can do without a concrete mixer, mix the solution manually.

We offer you to watch the video instructions for making paving slabs with your own hands:

Filling shapes

Technological features of how to fill paving slabs correctly are as follows... It is better to fill the molds with concrete halfway at first, then they need to be placed on a vibrating table. After the vibrating table begins to work, the concrete will begin to compact, which will be evidenced by foam bubbles on its surface - this is how the air in the mixture comes out. As the concrete settles, it must be added to the required height.

Also, if gravel or crushed stone is not added to the mortar, you can increase the strength of the tile by placing reinforcement in the form of an iron mesh or wire in the casting mold.

Concrete can be poured in layers, for example to save dye. The front side of the finished block will then be colored, and the rest will be gray. Mix the colored and ordinary mixture separately, it is only important that its density is the same.

On average, molds with concrete should be left on a vibrating table for 4-5 minutes. After the end of vibration, they must be placed on a flat surface. Cured paving slabs should not be exposed to direct sunlight. It takes up to three days to completely solidify, given the presence of a plasticizer.

Video on pouring forms of paving slabs on a personal plot:

Removal of formwork and storage of paving slabs

In order not to damage the mold during molding, you need to warm it up by dipping it into water at 50-70 degrees Celsius, then just tap it with a rubber hammer so that you can easily "shake out" the finished product. After stripping, the molds are ready for a new production cycle.

The finished paving slabs must be kept for up to three weeks on a flat surface and also in the shade, for further hardening and gaining strength. It is necessary to lay it for storage "face to face", if there are several rows, covering each one with shrink wrap. During this time, the tile will dry out enough and acquire the strength necessary for use.

The given manufacturing technology is applicable not only for paving slabs, in a similar way it is possible to organize the production of curbs .

Application of paving slabs

Since paving slabs are a universal material, they can be used almost anywhere. Playgrounds, car parks, pedestrian streets, park areas, bike paths, private land holdings - this is just the main list of directions, which will not be difficult to expand. Paving slabs are used to decorate flower beds, fountains, garden ponds, decorative fences and barriers, porches and terraces, stair steps.

Laying of this covering leaves the soil under it "breathing", as it allows air and water to pass through, and does not contain toxins, although it interferes with the growth of plants. But the soil still retains its properties, unlike the soil under solid concrete or asphalt.

Paving slabs withstand heavy structures, moisture and extreme weather conditions do not destroy it. These properties are due to the fact that its composition is close to the composition of concrete structures used in construction in the supports and floors of buildings. It is a strong and durable material that is not affected by the climate and aggressive urban environment.

Several examples of the use of paving slabs in your suburban area