Profile pipe bending machine: how to build a pipe bending machine with your own hands. How profile pipe rolling is performed - equipment, technology Profile pipe rolling machine drawing

Hello. Today I want to tell you about my homemade pipe bender, which I made this winter.
I had the idea to assemble such a machine for a long time. With it, you can roll profile pipes, giving them the shape of an arc. Such an operation is in great demand - you can assemble, for example, a greenhouse, a canopy, a canopy over the entrance. You can give an interesting shape to the upper edge of the gate, or a metal fence...

And this winter, I found the time and took up this homemade. When designing, I considered the following points:
Considering that I'm not going to use it professionally, I decided to make a relatively lightweight design that is also easy to transport, and which will not take up much space when stored. (After all, I will bend pipes either near the house or in the country. I will not use it every year. And I certainly will not have to bend large pipes). Therefore, I decided not to make a powerful stationary structure with a long resource ...

There are many descriptions of such machines on the net. The principle of operation is the same for them - the basis is made up of three shafts, one of which is movable in a vertical plane. It is he who bends the pipe and, rolling along these shafts, it takes the form of an arc.

... Basically, they are all divided into two types:
1. With a "breaking" bed:

2. With movable central carriage.

The second type is more compact (albeit more complex), so I decided to do just that.

In turn, pipe benders with a movable central carriage are also divided into two types: With a driving central shaft and with two driving outer shafts connected to each other by a drive chain.

If the central shaft is made leading, then it is possible to easily change the distance between the extreme ones, which will give additional adjustment of work depending on the cross section (and hence rigidity) of various profile pipes.

At first I doubted whether there would be slippage if only one shaft was the drive one, but after observing the pipe bender with one drive shaft in operation, I realized that this effort was quite enough for not very large sections. And I'm not going to bend pipes with a height greater than, for example, 60 mm ... Therefore, I settled on such a device.

And now, after some time, I got a pipe bender, which you will see in this video:

So, more... I needed:
1. Old faulty hydraulic jack
2. Profile pipes of various sections.
3. A circle with a diameter of 40 mm, a length of 500 mm.
4. Bearings 6206 4pcs
5. Bearings 6202 8 pcs.
6. Channel No. 65
7. Thrust bearings 2 pcs.
8. Hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, cotter pins)

I started with the manufacture of the main working elements - shafts. I had a 40 mm round timber, half a meter long. It was possible to take a thicker one, but ... I had this one!))). Therefore, I cut it into three parts. Two - 130 mm each, and one - all that is left))))). On a lathe, I machined shafts for bearings (up to 30 mm in diameter)

The shafts are ready. Started assembling the carriage. I decided to make it from the 65th channel - the 206th bearings fit well into it ...

After I cut the channel of the desired length, I drilled a hole in its center, and welded it across the corner along the sides:

After that, I proceeded to the manufacture of the central screw. I took it from an old hydraulic jack that I found on scrap metal. When I was convinced that it would never be a jack again, I decided to use it.

The screw itself was 30 mm in diameter. In its end, with an 8mm drill, I drilled a blind hole, hammered a stud there and grabbed it by welding:

The screw in the jack was screwed into the piston. I cut off from it the upper part (threaded) and another ring, 20 mm wide.

I put this ring on the screw, inserted the screw with a pin into the hole in the carriage and welded the ring to the carriage:

This will be the seat for the support bearing. (I picked it up according to the outer diameter)

I screwed a nut onto the stud, and drilled a hole in the nut and in the stud:

It was possible only in a hairpin, but it seemed to me more reliable. The nut can now be cottered after assembly. And the assembly, you guessed it, consists of a screw, a bearing, a carriage, a second bearing and a nut.

Now, when pressed, the screw will rest against the carriage through the upper bearing, and when raised, the carriage will hang on it through the lower one.
On the sides of the carriage, I welded along the cut of the 50 to 20 profile pipe - these will be guides, and I drilled holes in the corners and cut the M6 thread. Bolts for fastening the clamps of the drive shaft are screwed into them.

I cut out the bearing clamps themselves from tin - there is no need for a fortress, as long as the shaft does not fall when the carriage is raised:

Next, I started making the top plate. It needs to be made very strong - it will have all the force of the screw when it bends the pipe. Therefore, I made it from the same 65th channel. Since I decided to use a profile pipe 50 by 25 for vertical racks (the distance between the shelves of the 65th channel is just 50 mm. The racks will go into it and close with M10 bolts with nuts), then the width of the top plate should be 50 mm larger carriage width (2 times 25). I cut out two such pieces of channel.

Another one was cut into half and spread along:

I inserted the threaded part cut off from the jack piston into the center:

All welded and cut off the excess:

Next, I proceeded to the manufacture of the bed. She was also assembled from a profile pipe. The cross section took 60 by 30:

I decided to make three positions for each shaft. I also made landing bearings from a profile pipe, so I cut off 12 identical segments of 50 mm each. (Here, and not only here, mine helped me a lot, which I told you about in a previous publication):

After that, I welded vertical racks and landing ones for bearings to the frame:

As well as four "ears" at the edges. Holes will be drilled in them later for attaching the pipe bender with screws to the workbench.

The main part is ready. You can start pre-assembly:

I welded a piece of pipe 20 by 20 to the screw from above. I left it long. I decided that during the testing process, if it interferes, then I will cut it off and use a removable lever from a 15 by 15 pipe, which is inserted inside ... But, looking ahead, I will say that this was not required. The lever really interferes with turning the drive handle if it is turned a quarter of a turn (it sticks out across the pipe bender). But it turned out that tightening the screw with an interval of half a turn is quite normal.

Next, I started making the drive handle ... I decided to make the handle itself from a 15x15 profile pipe and a stud. I drilled a hole at the end, inserted a piece of M14 stud into it, welded it and cleaned it:

Now you need to make a bend on the lever itself - the pipe bender will be installed on the edge of the table or workbench.

Next - connect it to the shaft. I decided in advance to make it not only removable, but also so that it turns over and in the transport position does not hang out and does not cling. On the shaft, I made this profile:

Then I drilled a blind hole and cut an M8 thread in it. The handle will be put on the shaft and fastened through the washer with a wing bolt.

Now we need to make a hub on the handle. I used corner trims:

Then, as a sculptor, he cut off everything superfluous :))))))

The lever is ready. On the handle itself (which I have made of an M14 stud), I simply put on a piece of polyethylene water pipe and tightened the cap nut.

In general, I want to dwell separately on my use of cap nuts. I often use them if I need an axis of rotation. Having chosen the correct axle length, you can tighten the cap nut and tighten it with maximum force - it will rest against the axle with a cap, and it will not be easily unscrewed. Of course, it is not worth fixing in this way the axis on which, for example, the wheel is located, without a cotter pin, but for "unimportant" axles, such as "curtains" on which something opens and closes, this is quite suitable.

Let's get back to the pipe bender ... As I said, such a moment as a very simple reinstallation of the shafts was important to me. (Because, knowing, for example, myself, I am sure that I will not use the option until the last moment if it is difficult to use it ... For example, if the shafts were close, and the pipe would come across with a large cross section, I would try carefully to roll it in such a position of the shafts, if to change it would have to unscrew a lot of some kind of nuts ... And most likely, I would have crushed ...). That is why I made the mounting locations of the bearings from a profile pipe. The shaft is simply inserted into the desired pair of racks.

But this design contradicted my other requirement - mobility! After all, when carrying the machine, the shafts would have to be removed and transferred separately ... At the same time, bearings would have to be removed from them (I machined them under a loose fit and they can fall off). This did not suit me. Therefore, I decided to make a part that would press the bearings from above and fix them. I took two pieces of a profile pipe, with a section of 50 by 20 mm, a wall of 2 mm.

After that, I cut them along the wide part, dividing the wall into 10 and 40 mm. At the same time, on the other hand, I marked this size in a mirror. I got four of these blanks:

Given that the width of the 206th bearing is 15 mm, it fits quite tightly inside this workpiece.
I measured the required length, I cut the rest like this:

After that, the upper part was bent down 90 degrees, having done accordingly, washed down the corner:

On them, I cut out such a "tooth":

Now I installed both shafts on one side of the pipe bender, put the resulting parts on them, to the vertical posts, drilling through, I attached them with long M4 screws with cap nuts (we got axles). Ahead, I bent towards each other the strips of the side walls sticking forward. Now, if they are riveted together, we will get a U-shaped cover, which, being lowered down, will cover the shaft bearings and fix them tightly:

Consider a good example of how you can make a rolling machine with your own hands: methods and technologies for its manufacture. But first of all, it is necessary to understand for what purpose we need this machine.

It is quite difficult to imagine modern everyday life without metal. It is used everywhere, and requires appropriate equipment for processing. The metallurgical industry mainly uses modern rolling machines, which, in turn, have a high price. For independent use and manufacture of a professional pipe, you can design a rolling and punching machine on your own.

What is this equipment used for?

Rolling and punching machines and other metalworking equipment are most often used to create a specific shape of a metal part. Since this material is used everywhere, its processing is approached with due responsibility and attention.

Rolling machines for metal profiles are ubiquitous, but many do not realize that such complex equipment can be made independently. Due to the fact that the price of such equipment is extremely high, we will clearly consider an example of how to make a rolling-cutting mechanical machine with our own hands.

A striking example of metal parts, where a rolling machine for profile pipes is used in the manufacture, are pipes or battery radiators present in every house or apartment. All these products are made on metalworking equipment, which, by virtue of being made independently, without any skills and deep knowledge.

Important: if you decide to make a die-cutting type of machine yourself, then for the reliability of subsequent parts manufactured on it, its assembly should be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Types of rolling machine

As it has already become clear from the previously mentioned, rolling equipment is necessary for processing a metal billet into a finished geometrically shaped part. In this case, the following types of equipment are used for sheet metal:

Continuous extension, which allow the production of metal pipes with a cross section of 110 mm.
Pilgrim machines that are used in the manufacture of massive pipes with a diameter of 400 to 700 mm.
Short straightening models of equipment that are used in the production of seamless pipes with a diameter of up to 450 mm.
Three-shaft type machines, which, in turn, are used to make thick-walled pipes, the diameter of which can reach 200 mm. Often this type of equipment is called a jewelry rolling machine.

Important: at modern metalworking plants, wide-profile models of the bending system of installations are also often used, which makes it possible to produce profile pipes with a total length of up to 3 meters.

Component parts of equipment

As a rule, any rolling machine includes three main components, namely:

working cells;
transmission devices;
electric motors.

The shafts where the metal components of the future part are placed are part of the working cell. This component also includes the following elements: installation mechanisms, beds, plates, as well as wiring. Powerful electric motors are responsible for the movement of all components of the rolling machine. They are connected to the working elements using couplings, transmission elements and spindles.

Important: the main component of rolling equipment of crimping and billet type is the diameter of the shaft, namely the size of its working surface.

Modern metalworking machines can have several working stands at once, this is necessary for the manufacture of parts of complex geometric shapes. Often it is called a crow's foot machine, which allows you to work in several projections at once.

As a rule, such devices have impressive dimensions and can provide a working surface of up to 3 meters. A distinctive feature of modern rolling machines is the work in three directions at once for:

Making holes in sheet metal.
Extraction of the workpiece into the pipe.
Product calibration, which allows you to set the diameter of the future part.

Important: work on the rolling machine can only be carried out by a qualified specialist who has been instructed in safety precautions.

Making a rolling installation with your own hands

For a profile pipe with your own hands, you will need to make a small machine, which differs significantly from industrial installations in size. This can be done in everyday conditions if there is free space under the machine.

It can be noted that a home-made machine can allow you to make parts of any complexity. With its help, you can easily make a wire of any diameter, cut sheet metal, which provides for the roofing of any roof, as well as many other details that are often in demand in everyday life.

First, you will need to select the appropriate drawings so that you get a homemade rolling machine. After that, it is necessary to prepare its components, namely:

a pair of powerful racks made of strong metal;
a steel rod whose diameter will be at least 5 cm;
top plate with M10 nuts;
two gears of the appropriate size;
gear;
springs and stops;
as well as bronze bearings and bushings.

After you have all the components in stock, you can begin to manufacture a working machine, which at the same time will be mobile enough to move:

With the help of bolts from racks and a metal plate, a kind of working cage is assembled.
Two working shafts are mounted to the same racks. They must first be machined from a previously prepared steel bar. They also need to be hardened to obtain improved metal strength.
The lower shaft is mounted between the racks using prepared bushings and bearings. The upper shaft is mounted on special sliders and is a movable element of the machine. The upward movement of the sliders is limited by stops.
Continuous compression of the two separate shafts is provided by a spring, which keeps them in constant tension. It is attached simultaneously to the plate, bases and directly to the movable upper shaft.

Important: to ensure the operation of such a machine, synchronous rotation of the working shafts is necessary. You can solve this problem with the help of a gear that transmits torque to the gear, which is installed on the lower shaft. Thus, using the handle, you can start the device.

The installation made in this way has a manual drive. It requires continuous rotation to operate. If the manual mechanism stops, then, accordingly, the shafts will stop rotating. Thus, a universal device is obtained, on which it is possible to change components and thereby change the profile suitability of the machine.

Advantages of a homemade device

Ultimately, everything you need to make such a versatile device can be bought at a low cost at any hardware store or you can pick up the right components from old long-forgotten things, as well as pick up blueprints. In any case, the price of such a machine will pay for itself very quickly, since parts of any complexity can be made on it with minimal costs for consumables.

Important: renting a rolling machine will cost a lot, because of which you can post ads and make good money on your device.

The work done quickly pays off, as you can make any parts. Here is just a small list of them:

professional pipes;
metal guides for a profile for drywall;
seam roof coverings;
elements for metal siding;
metal sheets of square and rectangular shape;
additional fasteners for siding;
wire for electrical wiring.

All these homemade products will be useful to you when building a new house or renovating it. As practice shows, home-made sheet-bending machines are extremely in demand, since their scheme does not require complex manufacturing, but at the same time allows you to produce a lot of useful and necessary parts.

Video: do-it-yourself rolling machine.

Results

Thus, by hand, you can make an excellent machine for folding roofing sheets and other structures with minimal investment and labor, while you will never again need to rent bending machines or any other metalworking equipment.

Real master jewelers have been working part-time for a long time, thus having a stable profitable part-time job, or use their home-made equipment as the main source of income.

The acquisition of a private house or suburban area is rarely associated with the desire to spend the weekend passively. Very little time will pass and a greenhouse covered with polycarbonate will appear on the site, and a fancy visor will be installed above the veranda of the house, capable of protecting from raindrops and the scorching sun.

The basis for such important and necessary structures is a frame made of bent profile pipes. Well, in order to get a bend of a given radius and shape, a pipe bender is needed. In this article, we will talk about how to make a similar pipe rolling machine, which a home craftsman cannot do without.

Profile deformation

What is a pipe bender and why is it needed

Industrial production

A machine for rolling a profile pipe or a pipe bender is a technical device that belongs to the tools and mechanisms used to work with rolled metal products. With it, you can easily bend the profile of ordinary pipe materials according to a given radius. Its main advantage is the ability to bend any number of products with the same radius.

Note! Bent pipes can be used to install pipelines for transporting hot or cold water, as well as to create frames of various types and shapes, which are often used in construction.

Many people wonder why a hard worker is needed ?. It would seem, strengthen one end of the pipe and pull the other. But in fact, not everything is so simple.

Such a method will lead to the following consequences:

Lack of ability to control the radius;
By bending the product in this way, you will create a zone of stress concentration, thereby reducing the strength of the structure;
Reduced service life of the structure.

A pipe bender is simply necessary for a home master, so for many there is an acute question of what is the price of such a machine, or is it more reasonable to make it yourself.

How to choose?

When purchasing any tool for their own use, each master should be guided by the principle of its reasonable need.

Advice. The tool with which pipes are rolled must perform its functions properly, without requiring additional expenses from its owner.

Criteria for choosing a mechanism of this kind:

Type of drive. The choice is made depending on the overall dimensions of the pipes, the expected scope of work and the intensity of use of the tool;
Maximum geometric parameters of processed profile products;
The principle of operation of the machine, depending on the specifics of the operations performed.

Another important factor is the size of the machine itself. Based on the location on the desktop or in a separate corner, you can choose a stationary multi-tool.

Pipe bender device

Pipe Bending Methods

The main purpose of this type of tool is the rolling of a profile pipe, i.e., giving the workpiece the required shape.

The most common among home craftsmen is precisely the three-roller version of the machine with a manual drive type. Such a unit is a triangular structure of three rollers, equal in width to the section of the workpiece.

The rollers located at the base of the structure are interconnected by means of a chain drive. The top roller is part of a screw mechanism with a screw-type clamp or press.

This top roller is able to reciprocate in the vertical direction.

The pipe is placed on the lower rollers and pressed against the upper one connected to the screw mechanism;
Turning the handle, the master produces a broach;
Further, without removing the workpiece from the mill, we increase the pressure by turning the clamping screw several turns;
The workpiece is stretched again.

The described cycle must be repeated until the pipe acquires the desired shape.

Types of pipe benders

Despite the fact that the device seems quite simple, there are a huge number of designs of this kind. According to some basic features, they are divided into the following categories.

According to the type of drive, the machine for a profile pipe can be:

Electromechanical. The drive for such a device is a conventional or stepper motor. Moreover, the usual one is connected through the lower gearbox, which allows you to evenly stretch the applied efforts over time in order to achieve a high quality bend;

Note! The electric motor can drive the roller of the rolling tool or the arm system of the mandrel type machine.

Hydraulic. A more powerful version of the hand-operated design. The use of a hydraulic cylinder as a clamping mechanism will reduce the effort required for bending;
Manual. The most common type of mechanism, which is usually present in the workshop of every master and good owner.

Note! The workpiece is rolled and the clamping force is generated only by the force applied by the operator.

According to the bending method, rolling mills can be classified as follows:

Dornovy - as a rule, industrial production. Most often you can find electromechanical or hydraulic. The advantages of this design include high-quality deformation with a small specified bending radius;

mandrel tool

Segment - for working with thin-walled pipes made of soft types of metal. Commonly used by plumbers and heating system builders. It consists of two levers with holders for bending products. A mandrel with the required radius is installed in the place of the hinged connection of the levers. Bending in this case is made after installing the pipe by bringing the handles together;
Spring - is a dense spring of a certain diameter, inside which a pipe is threaded. To obtain a high-quality bend, you need to have considerable experience. Commonly used by air conditioners;
Crossbow - used for deformation of copper, aluminum and steel thin-walled pipes. It is a T-shaped structure, on top of which pipe holders are fixed, and in the center a movable lever with replaceable mandrels. When you press the handle, the lever extends, and the ratchet mechanism allows you to gradually increase the bending force.

crossbow assembly

Do it yourself

For example, the instructions for creating a three-roller manual type unit will be considered:

In the photo - a homemade design

As a body, you can use steel sheets 3 mm thick, on which we mark with a simple pencil;
The rollers can be made from rope pulleys endowed with bearings;
The seat for the roller is drilled using a conventional electric drill;
Opposite the roller, at the very top, a sufficiently high nut is welded, which will be part of the clamping mechanism;
A U-shaped part is welded, equipped with mounting holes for the roller mounting screw. A welded washer will be responsible for lifting the pressure roller.

Finally

Manual pipe bender

The cold rolling mill of pipes will allow you to effectively bend products of various types and sizes. Having built it yourself or buying such a unit and installing it in your own workshop, you can be sure that the construction of frames of even the most bizarre shapes will no longer be a problem for you.

With the help of such a tool, you will make a greenhouse frame, an original canopy, and any other design you need.

And the video in this article will reveal to you even more nuances of building your own instrument.

Hydroguru.com

We make a homemade pipe bender and profile bender with our own hands

There are many models of industrial pipe benders on the construction markets, but it hardly makes sense to buy a professional tool in order to bend two or three pipes. But to make this simple tool with your own hands and use it in the household is quite within the power of every person who has certain technical skills.

The use of pipe benders

Pipes have been and are one of the most popular building materials that are used both in the household and in industry and construction. In addition to being used in the installation of water and gas pipelines, pipes are also used for the manufacture of hedges, greenhouse structures, gazebos, sheds, garden furniture, etc. Thus, the presence of a pipe bender in the household will never be redundant.

Often, for the manufacture of various structures from pipes, it is necessary to bend the profile pipes along the radius. For these purposes, a pipe bender is used, which allows bending pipes up to an angle of 180 degrees. Pipe benders allow you to easily and accurately change the configuration of pipes made of various materials - aluminum, metal-plastic, stainless steel. The bend is made according to the required shape and size.

Types and models of pipe benders

The industry produces various types of professional pipe benders. Small-diameter pipes are usually bent using hand-operated tools, but pipes up to three inches in diameter are bent using hydraulically driven pipe benders.

Such a tool is designed to perform large-scale work. Industrial pipe benders can be made both in stationary and mobile versions. The most convenient tool that connects to the mains.

Electromechanical pipe benders provide the most accurate bending angle and radius. At the same time, changing the shape of the pipes does not entail any deformations of the internal profile.

Pipe benders are also subdivided according to the method of bending:

in crossbow pipe benders, a shape of a certain diameter is used as a bending element;
manual spring tool is designed for bending metal-plastic pipes using special springs;
in segment pipe benders, bending is carried out by stretching the pipe around the segment; mandrel tools carry out bending of thin-walled pipes to a small radius using steel, plastic and brass mandrels.

When bending a pipe, allowable bending radii for pipes of various diameters and different wall thickness parameters should be taken into account. Permissible bending radii for products of various characteristics are presented in special reference books. If the radius is violated, the quality of the bend can be significantly reduced.

Let's start manufacturing

Despite the apparent simplicity of the process, pipe bending requires a rather serious approach, since with an incorrectly selected tool, various defects and deformations are possible, leading to a decrease in the throughput of pipes and a decrease in their strength characteristics.

Therefore, the selection of the tool is carried out taking into account the compatibility of the characteristics of the pipe and the principle of operation of the tool.

Pipes made of different materials, having different diameters and different wall thicknesses, have a certain minimum bending radius. The following table is used to determine it:

Of course, pipes can be bent with a smaller radius, but it should be borne in mind that this will reduce the quality of their bending.

Now let's talk about the independent manufacture of pipe benders and consider several designs of such tools.

It is easiest to bend the pipe using a special template. It should be noted that this method allows you to bend not only aluminum, but also steel pipes.

To make a template, we need wooden boards with a thickness slightly exceeding the diameter of the bent pipe. In order to prevent the pipe from slipping out of the template during operation, the boards are cut with a certain slope.

The boards fastened together must be fixed on a table or on another convenient base. In addition to the template, it is also necessary to fix the stop holding the bent pipe at a certain distance. The simplest pipe bender model is ready.

The end of the bendable pipe is inserted into the space between the fixed template and the stop. Taking the pipe by the opposite end, it is necessary to bend the product with smooth movements. To facilitate the process, you can use a lever by inserting a strong reinforcing rod into the pipe or putting a larger diameter pipe on the product to be bent.

Attempts to bend the pipe along the center of the template should be avoided, as this not only requires considerable effort, but can also lead to breakage of the pipe.

A similar template can also be made from metal hooks attached to a sheet of plywood along the corresponding bend line. The advantage of this design is the ability to adjust the bending line by rearranging the hooks.

The simplest pipe benders allow you to bend not only thin-walled flexible pipes, but also thick-walled products. To do this, use a hand winch.

With the use of such a design, even powerful profile pipes can be bent. However, for these purposes, when sawing out a wooden template, a bevel should not be made, and the pipe must be fixed with several stops at once.

In various workshops, you can often find pipe benders with a similar design:

You can make it yourself. In the process of manufacturing such a pipe bender, the most problematic is the selection or manufacture of the necessary templates and rollers, since the quality of the bend depends on the girth of the pipe.

If the tool is designed to work with flexible pipes, steel rollers and templates can be replaced with similar parts made from hardwood.

Rollers can be machined on a lathe. Also, the roller can be cut with a jigsaw. To do this, circles of different diameters are cut out of solid plywood with an inclination in the required direction, which are then fastened into a single piece. Finally, the roller should be processed with sandpaper. To give greater strength to the product, it should be strengthened with metal plates.

To obtain a large bending radius, the use of rolling pipe benders is optimal. These tools, like the ones described above, do not differ in the complexity of the design. In general, the level of complexity of the design of rolling pipe benders largely depends on the material of the pipes being bent.

If the tool is needed to work with flexible pipes, its working surfaces can be made of wood. Since wooden parts are quite easy to manufacture and do not require large expenditures, they can be easily replaced when worn.

If the wooden parts are inefficient in operation, they can be replaced with metal ones. Consider several designs of home-made rolling pipe benders.

As you can see, this tool is made mainly of wooden parts. The rollers in this model are made of polyurethane, however, they can also be made of wood. T

Bearings can also be used as rollers. However, in this case, it will be necessary to jam the pressure bearing so that it does not scroll.

The technical characteristics of the pipe bender depend on the distance between the rollers of the pipe bender. The greater the distance between the rollers, the less effort will be required to bend and run the pipe. However, in this case, a minimum bending radius is ensured, and a significant section of the pipe is not subjected to bending at all.

In order to make a more versatile tool, it should be possible at the design stage to install side rollers in various positions. On the sides it is necessary to fix steel clamps holding the pipe in a certain position perpendicular to the axes of the rollers. Otherwise, the pipe will begin to bend in a spiral.

The pressure roller of the pipe bender should be tightened from below with a metal strip with a thread of the required diameter cut in the center.

By gently tightening the pressure roller of the device, the bent pipe is rolled through the pipe bender. When rolling, for every half-turn of the fixing metal strip, a pipe run is made.

When bending a small radius, 50 to 100 runs will be required. In order for the bending circle not to be deformed, it is necessary to roll the pipe at the same speed. If there is a welded seam on the surface of the pipe, it is necessary to check that the seam is always on one side during rolling.

Homemade pipe bender for a profile pipe

Spring is coming, soon rooks and an unfinished greenhouse for many years now). From the very beginning, I decided to make a normal greenhouse from a normal profile. To do this, you need to bend the frame. You can, of course, look for where it is bent or even buy a finished one, but we are not looking for easy ways. We will bend ourselves, and for this we need to make a pipe bender. It will come in handy more than once in the household ...

So, rummaging through the search for drawings or diagrams for making a pipe bender with my own hands, I collected a small collection of photos. So let's start this manufacturing process with drawings and photographs.

The pipe bender himself:

A bit of the manufacturing process:

Well, when we already have an idea about the design, the drawings themselves:

The most important thing is to machine the rollers and bearing races. The dimensions of the shafts are selected based on our bearings and sprockets. Asterisks can be completely abandoned by making a drive from one roller, but according to reviews, the design can slip this way.

Another clamping screw can be replaced with a jack. In any case, the main shafts.

Well, let's start the selection of materials and correction of drawings? In the meantime, you can look at an even more advanced version. The shafts are machined to fit a pair of round tube diameters and a regular shaped tube.

I bought bearings first. I didn’t take simple ones, but bought self-centering ones with supports for a ruble more. Since the “premium class” profile bender will be made, the gears with the chain for it should also be premium). In my case, Mercedes.

The task for the turner was formulated on a piece of wallpaper and he successfully completed the task

Well, the first example

The gears will be fixed through the key. In the rings, you still need to drill holes and cut the threads to fix them.

I drill holes and make grooves for the key, for fastening the gear.

I drill holes in the restrictive rings and cut the threads for the clamp bolts. I sawed off a piece of the channel for fastening the pressure shaft. One shelf was cut off so as not to interfere with the installation of the jack. Holes drilled and threaded for mounting bearings.

Now you can move on to welding. I lay out the parts on the "welding table". I assemble the structure, weld the legs.

Screw on the pinch shaft. We control it and weld the nuts for the springs.

I hang the platform on the springs. By the way, the upper stop is bolted, just in case, you suddenly have to remove the pressure roller.

I'm making a chain tensioner. As a holder - a magnetic corner. Excellent thing!

I fasten the stars, not forgetting to insert the dowels. The dowels were made by cutting the engraver. I tighten the tensioner.

The next detail is a handle for rotation. Do not forget to make a handle with a rotating tube, so as not to rub corns. And we install the jack, weld a couple of bolts and fix it on the site.

Result

It's time for bench tests! What can I say about the quality of the bend… the bend itself turned out just wonderful. There is a slight wrinkle at the extreme points. There is no way without it. But thanks to the shoulder on the central shaft, there is no such jamming along the arc.

In principle, the result is more than satisfied. The machine turned out to be what you need. Spins easily, bends well. It remains a little to give a presentation ... paint is used.

gredx.com

Homemade pipe bender for a profile pipe: device and manufacturing nuances

The need for a reliable and simple device for bending profile pipes arises when the home craftsman begins to work seriously with metal. Pergola frame, carport, garden bench, workbench…

These and many other designs turn out to be strong and beautiful if the profile metal for them is carefully bent on a special profile bender.

There is always an economical alternative to buying a ready-made machine, since you can make a pipe bender for a profile pipe with your own hands in your home workshop. Before the first workpiece is clamped in a vice, we suggest that you get acquainted with the principle of operation and the existing varieties of homemade pipe benders.

How does a pipe bender work?

The principle of operation of this device is simple: a profile pipe is placed between three support shafts. The central shaft creates pressure that bends the metal at the desired angle.

To bend the pipe in one local area, a point machine is used.

Profile pipe bent on a point device

If you need to get an arched profile, then a rolling bending machine is used that combines the bending of the metal with the broach.

Varieties of pipe bending machines

Depending on the drive that transmits force to the profile metal, there are three types of pipe benders:

mechanical (pressure is created manually using a central screw or lever);
hydraulic (a hydraulic jack is used);
electrical (bending force creates an electric motor);
electro-hydraulic (hydraulic cylinder is driven by an electric motor).

Point mechanical pipe bender
Mechanical rolling profile bender (the screw creates pressure on the profile, broaching is performed using the central shaft and the handle)

It should be noted that a rolling pipe bender with a manual profile drawing is designed for a pipe with a small section (maximum 40x40 mm). It is impossible to stretch a large profile manually. For its bending, powerful machines with an electric broaching mechanism are used.

Manual rolling bending machine (pulling is carried out by the outer rollers driven by the handle and chain, and the pressure is created by the screw and the central shaft)

Video about the device of the machine with an electric motor:

How to make a bending machine with your own hands?

The basic principle that should be followed when developing a drawing of a homemade pipe bender is the maximum simplicity of design and reliability.

Option 1

The spot bending machine can be assembled from two pieces of channel, four corners and two scraps of pins from tractor tracks.

The bending of the pipe in it is performed by a standard hydraulic jack with a force of at least 5 tons. A steel "shoe" is installed on its working rod. It can be ordered from a turner or made yourself from an old pulley, the width of the “stream” of which is equal to the width of the profile pipe. By cutting off a half from the pulley and drilling a seat for the jack rod in it, a hydraulic drive mechanism is obtained.

The frame of the homemade device consists of four corners (shelf 60-80 mm) welded to a steel plate. Two channels are welded parallel to the upper ends of the corners. Holes are symmetrically drilled in their walls to control the angle of bending of the workpiece.

The manual pipe bending machine is brought into working position very simply:

Two steel fingers are inserted into the holes on the channel and the stop rollers are mounted on them.
The jack with the shoe is raised so that a profile pipe passes between it and the stops.
Having installed the pipe, they work with the jack handle, creating a bending force.

Video of assembly and operation of a point pipe bender:

Option 2

It is also quite possible to build a rolling manual pipe bender for a profile pipe on your own. For its manufacture, 2 linear meters of a channel will be required (wall height 15-20 cm), from which the base and racks are cut.

For the manufacture of rollers, six short pieces of steel pipe are taken. It will act as a holder for the bearings. Therefore, its inner diameter must be equal to the outer diameter of the bearing. Having ordered three shafts from the turner for mounting the bending rollers, they begin to weld the bed.

For the machine under consideration, the extreme right support plays the role of a guide that sets the profile bending angle. It is mounted on a channel hinged to the main frame using conventional door hinges. The jack rests against the turntable with its working rod and raises it.

By rotating the handle, mounted on the shaft of the intermediate stop, the profile is pulled through the machine.

You can adjust the bending radius of the profile not only by tilting the rotary channel, but also by the outer rollers. To do this, they are not welded tightly to the frame, but are made movable (holes are drilled in the channel and base plates).

Instead of a hydraulic jack, a screw car jack can be used to lift the outer roller.

Video on the manufacture of a rolling pipe bender:

remstroysam.ru

How profile pipe is rolled - equipment, technology

The rolling of a profile pipe is called a technological procedure, as a result of which the longitudinal profile of the product changes. This will require the presence of a special machine for rolling pipes, with its characteristic high productivity, which is necessary for the manufacture of curved elements of metal structures.

Material Description

The profile pipe belongs to a special type of rolled metal, with the help of which metal structures of various sizes and functions are assembled. Such rolled metal is distinguished by the presence of a multifaceted or oval profile in the cross section. Most often, its shape is a square or rectangle. It goes without saying that pipelines and other transport communications are not made from such pipes.

This limitation is explained by weak resistance to internal pressure and insufficient throughput characteristics. The fact is that profile pipes are made from a strip strip, which basically does not provide for the reliable formation of reliable connecting sections. As a result, when this material is used for the manufacture of pipelines, there is a high probability of ruptures.

What are profile pipes

When it comes to profile pipes, they mainly mean square, oval or rectangular products. As for the method of production, they are suture or seamless, with or without tempering. Vacation is a special procedure, as a result of which internal stresses are removed after the profile is formed.

In general, we can say that the assortment of profile pipes is so diverse that it took several GOSTs to normalize it. For example, square-type profile pipes are determined by GOST 8639-82.

These regulatory documents contain indications of the parameters by which profile pipes of thin-walled and thick-walled types are manufactured. The upper overall feature for them is the size of 180x180 mm, with a wall thickness of 8-14 mm. The smallest profile pipe is a square product of millimeter thickness, with a face size of 10 mm. From these values, the technology was determined, according to which this rolled product is subjected to longitudinal deformation.

A hollow beam with dimensions of 18x18 cm, where the wall thickness reaches 1.5 cm, can only be bent using a special technique.

Features of rolling

Longitudinal rolling of a profile pipe is built on rolling, which very much resembles a rolling mill. As a result, the shaped pipe rolling machine was given a pyramidal appearance.

Here there are two lower and one upper cylinder: with the help of the lower elements, transportation is carried out, and the upper roller is used for deformation of the rolled product. The rolling machine for a profile pipe has a very clear scheme of operation: the pipe lies on top of the lower pair of rollers, followed by pressing to the upper cylinder.

Due to this clamping effect, transmitted to the upper cylinder, a deflection of the pipe is achieved, with further deformation of the longitudinal profile. After turning on the “feed” (bottom drive), the deformation area spreads over the surface of the entire pipe being processed.

As a rule, with the help of one arrival, a long profile is not particularly deformed. However, this operation can be repeated as many times as desired. This allows you to form both arcuate and looped profiles.

What are rolling mills for rolling

When assembling metal structures, you have to use a variety of blanks. For their production, a wide variety of rolling units are used.

The most popular rolling machines today are:

Roller sheet benders. With their help, sheet metal is deformed. Pipes in such machines cannot be processed due to the very small gap between the transporting and deforming elements. Roller sheet benders are used where it is required to produce thin-walled shaped parts - ebbs, gutters, etc.
Three-roller machines. With the help of such a device, both pipes and sheets can be deformed. In addition, machines of this type make it possible to process profiled rolled products (corners, etc.). The downforce generator determines the level of power and performance of this equipment. On machines with a conventional clamp, to which the pressure roller is connected, productivity is below average: any locksmith can make a similar rolling machine for a profile pipe with his own hands. When used instead of a clamp with a hydraulic drive, this type of machine can even bend T-beams.
Machines with four rollers. This equipment is considered the most powerful of all devices of this type. With the help of these pipe benders, it is possible to produce not only arc, but also ring profiles. On four-roll machines, an exclusively mechanical drive is used: in this respect they differ from three-roll equipment, which can be either partially or completely manual. This involves the implementation of rolling a profile pipe with your own hands, with the help of the physical efforts of the worker. To increase the power of the machine, it is necessary to complicate its design and increase the level of energy consumption. This explains why at enterprises where a profile pipe is manufactured on a mass scale, a four-roll pipe bender is mainly used: it is unlikely that you can make a profile bender of this type with your own hands.

Standard profile pipes of square or rectangular section are widely used in construction due to their high bending strength and low weight. In cases where the permissible load values are exceeded, which occur during strong bending, the products are deformed and torn. To eliminate the negative consequences allows the use of pipes with a reinforced profile.

Profile pipe strengthening machine

Reinforcement means the formation of ribs at the corners of a square or rectangular profile during rolling on specially shaped rollers.

Pipes with a reinforced profile are characterized by high bending strength and are used to create curved structures of any complexity.

Strengthening the profile is carried out on specialized equipment.

Application area

To obtain the desired configuration, profile pipes are sequentially processed on machines for strengthening the profile, a forging block and a pipe bender.

The pipe bender allows you to bend profile pipes in a longitudinal section along a given radius. Such products are used in the installation of canopies, gazebos, visors.

Strengthening is a necessary step in preparing a profile pipe for making a curl by cold forging. The forging block allows you to create decorative elements from pipes with a square or rectangular section, curved in the most bizarre way. The resulting products are distinguished by volume, lightness, low price.

Design

The machine for reinforcing the profile by the principle of operation and design is in many ways reminiscent of a conventional rolling machine.

In addition to the frame and the motion drive, the main components of the machine for strengthening the profile pipe are:

Lower (support) shaft - 1 pc. It is leading, with its help the pipes move.
The upper shaft is clamping. Carries out the deformation of the profile - presses the pipe to the lower shaft.

The feed and take-up shafts are securely mounted on a massive base (case), which must ensure the stability of the installation during operation. The feed mechanism ensures the rotation of the shafts around its axis.

Process technology

The amplification process on the simplest machine is performed sequentially, with two pipe installations:

The first step is to install the pipe on the rollers.
2nd step - rolling the first 2 symmetrical sides.
3rd step - reinstallation of the pipe (turn 90 0).
4th stage - rolling of the second 2 symmetrical sides of the profile.

Profile strengthening machine

Profile reinforcement is performed on a cold forging machine equipped with rollers for squeezing the profile pipe before bending it into a curl.

profile pipe

The rolling process depends on the wall thickness of the profile pipes and the grade of the material from which they are made.

Drive mechanism

According to the principle of operation, there are different types of wire mechanisms:

manual;
electric;
hydraulic.

The machine with a manual drive is characterized by a simple design, compactness, and is designed for small amounts of work. Only a physically developed person can work on it. You will have to deform the metal with the help of muscle strength.

The machine with an electric drive for strengthening the profile pipe also does not take up much space. It works from an electric motor, the performance is high.

Hydraulic equipment is too bulky. Allows you to roll profile products with maximum dimensions. Designed for large volumes of work.

Functionality

Increased interest is enjoyed by multifunctional modules of a stationary type, which are equipped with:

rollers to strengthen the profile pipe;
rollers for rolling out the ends of blanks in the form of artistic elements;
forging block for cold forging.

All operations are performed without readjusting equipment and changing tools. Modules allow you to make various decorative forged elements of different sizes and the required shape.

An example of a multi-purpose plant is a commercially available crow's foot (PGL) amplification unit adapted for several operations:

reinforcement of the "crow's feet" type (crimping, squeezing);
rolling the ends of the workpiece.

After such processing, the pipe is completely ready for the manufacture of a decorative curl on the forging block.

Making a machine with your own hands

It does not always make sense to purchase a professional machine. For one-time work, the simplest do-it-yourself installations are more suitable. The main thing is to have drawings, carefully study the principle of the device and the operation of the machine, select high-quality materials for workpieces and the necessary tools for assembly.

Scheme

Schematic diagram of a machine for rolling 2 types of profile sections in a section. Based on it, you can get an idea about the design and interface of the main components and the principle of pipe processing. In this case, the top shaft is the driving one.

Machine diagram

Accessories

The components of the rolling mill must not have chips, potholes, have a decent margin of safety, and be made of certain steel grades.

Shafts, axles are machined on a lathe. Some components can be bought at the store or removed from other mechanisms, for example:

self-centering rolling bearings (4 pcs.);
stars (4 pcs.);
chain from a bicycle, moped.

To assemble the frame (base), you will need rolled metal (channel, pipes), sheets 5-10 mm thick. The base ensures the stability of the unit during operation.

Frame assembly

Rollers (2 pieces of each type) to reinforce the profile are best machined from alloy steel, for a small amount of work, St3, St10 are also suitable. Roll blanks are subjected to hardening.

The rollers and axles must be many times stronger than the pipes being processed. Otherwise, the rollers will often have to be replaced with new ones. The hardness of rollers on professional installations is at least 52 HRC.

Tools

When assembling the machine, you will need the skills (as well as the appropriate equipment):

turner;
welder;
locksmith.

Fastening by welding in some places can be replaced by threaded connections.

Required tools:

drill, with a set of drills;
wrenches of different sizes;
level for setting the horizon line;
caliper, tape measure.

Construction of incoming parts

Along the edges of the rollers, special rollers are machined, which securely fix the position of the pipe during rolling.

rollers

You can get the dimensions of the rollers for profile broaching from a kit from professional installations. Drawings of rollers and axles according to the obtained dimensions are not difficult to develop on your own. Below is an example drawing.

Roll drawing

Rolling of each profile size is carried out by rollers of the corresponding sizes. It is not easy to make a model with removable elements; for this reason, it is recommended to make rolls to strengthen the profile pipe when assembling the machine with your own hands in multi-stage. This will allow processing pipes of different sizes without reinstalling the rollers.

Both axles have the same dimensions but different lengths. On a longer axis (leading) fix the handle of the movement. Below is a drawing of the axis with a seat under the handle.

Drawing of an axis with a seat under the handle

Assembly work

The frame is created gradually, as the rest of the parts are assembled. The individual elements of the base are interconnected by welding or large-sized bolts.

The distance between the upper and lower axle depends on the diameters of the rollers. In the absence of accurate assembly drawings, the dimensions between the axles are determined empirically:

install rollers on the axis;
measure the distance between the axles;
drill holes on the side walls of the frame for the installation of bearings;
then the axles are removed to the side, they are engaged in the installation of bearings.

The connection of the axle and rollers is carried out in several ways:

using a dowel, about 8x8 mm in size;
welding through pre-drilled blind blind holes made with a large diameter drill.

The second method is available if there is a machine for manual arc welding or semi-automatic welding.

Next, the axis is inserted into the bearing, which is pre-fixed in the box, pre-welded to the wall of the frame from the inside. Reliability of fastening - maximum. First of all, axles with rollers are installed in the side wall of the frame where the chain drive is supposed to be located. Then the axles are inserted into the bearings fixed on the 2nd side wall of the frame.

After installing the main elements, the frame is strengthened:

welding seams;
threaded connections.

The assembly of the chain mechanism in practice also occurs with the determination of dimensions in place:

the 1st sprocket is installed on the lower axle;
on the upper axis - the 2nd sprocket;
try on the chain, outline the location of 2 more stars.

Chain assembly

The rollers should rotate without difficulty with the chain tensioned. The handle is welded to the drive axle last.

chain mechanism

For the movement feed mechanism in the form of a worm gear, you need to stock up on gears of the right size.

Movement feed mechanism

Special requirements are imposed on the coaxiality of the rollers: they must be located in the same vertical plane and be strictly parallel. Any misalignment will lead to uneven compression of the profile, which will significantly reduce the quality of the rolled product.

A machine made at home specifically for strengthening shaped pipes should not pose a danger to humans during operation. When assembling, you should:

Secure all moving parts as securely as possible. Eliminate their rebound during operation.
Provide protective shutters.

Properly assembled home-made installations are not inferior to professional models in terms of the quality of manufactured products.

The unit for bending a metal profile, pipes, rolling products of various sections is called a profile bender. Depending on the complexity of the cross-section of the profile, rollers with a simple side surface are used, or it is bored under a corner, an I-beam, a channel, a tee. This is done so that it repeats the view of the section at the end face of the processed shaped steel.

The principle of the machine

With the help of hydraulics, a general clamping force is provided, this is how the deformation of metal profiles of large thickness occurs. Pipe benders in the factory give a force of more than 8 tons, this indicator affects the choice of machine control: manual or electric. Devices with forced and manual clamping bend the rolled metal, providing cold deformation of the metal. Bending action in various machines different direction:

The pressure roller moves in a downward direction. The scheme with the top arrangement of a shaft is demanded during the work of the roll-forming equipment with electric control. In machines with a jack, this direction of movement of the working shaft is rarely used.
The working shaft moves from the bottom up, and the side rollers are fixed in static immobility. Such a scheme is used in units with hydraulic jacks, a change in position occurs when the central roll is moved.

These two working schemes are equally effective, although they differ in the location of the working and auxiliary shafts, as well as the type of pressing device.

Homemade bending unit

In the workshop, most often they design and assemble a roll forming machine with their own hands. The drawings are made for a unit designed for a metal profile, which has a cross section of 6 cm or less, since the bending of powerful rolled products requires a professional electric hydraulic drive.

The choice of constructs and materials

Materials are selected based on performance. For the base, take beams that are not curved, rust on them can occupy an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 10%. So that work does not have to be interrupted in search of missing materials, prepare the elements in advance:

bearing units with pressed rolling rollers;
channel, you need to take it No. 100 or 80;
monolithic shafts made of steel, the diameter of which is not less than 80 mm;
a metal rod with a diameter of 12 mm;
steel strip with a thickness of 5 mm or more;
bicycle chain or timing chain from the "Zhiguli" gear;
engraving and simple nuts, washers, M20 bolts, the length of the last 60 mm.

For the manufacture of the bed, two pieces are cut from a channel 20 cm long (for transverse guides) and two blanks of 70 cm each (for longitudinal racks). At the ends of the last two blanks, an angle of 70˚ is formed using a grinder.

initial stage

To install bearing assemblies, at the top of the longitudinal struts, holes are marked for their fastening. To do this, use a core and mark where the bolts will be located. After that, the bearings are removed to the side, and holes are drilled in the marked places with an electric drill using a metal drill.

The dimensions and location of the side fasteners are not marked on the drawing, but are selected at the place of manufacture, these parameters depend on the dimensions of the shafts that are prepared for installation in the structure. Through holes are drilled in the mounts, they are designed for setting the shaft. The edges of the holes are reinforced with additional overlays made of a metal strip so that the thickness of the passage (wall) is 10 mm.

A piece equal to the width of the shaft is separated from the channel with a grinder, its ends are formed at 45˚. It is needed in order to make a clamping unit. A skeleton is assembled for attaching the shaft from the upper crossbar and two side posts in the form of the letter P. The remaining channel is used to cut two pieces of 50 cm each to make a guide structure.

Main production cycle

To prepare the elements connected with bolts, two pieces are cut from the steel strip. They are calculated so that they fit freely into the cavity of the channel. For M12 bolts, holes of the appropriate diameter are drilled in pieces of plates, retreating from the edges by a distance of 10 mm. Finished parts are placed inside the channel and welded.

The prepared longitudinal and transverse parts are connected by welding, the frame of the profile bending machine is obtained. During the assembly process, a shaft is inserted into the structure of the top and two sidewalls. Guide vertical sections of the channel, which were prepared at the initial stage of assembly, are welded to the frame, the clamping mechanism will move along them.

A 22 mm hole is drilled in the upper part of the clamping device for the M20 bolt. The end of the bolt freely enters the hole, but does not fall out of it; for this, soldering is done at the end by welding. The guides for moving the carriage make them from two sections of the channel, the length of the blanks is equal to the distance between the skids. The holes in the crossbars are made exactly so that they coincide with those previously drilled in the guide parts of the runs. A hole in the center is drilled according to the diameter of the nut, then it is welded on top.

For fixing the crossbar of the top, a bolted connection is provided, the hardware is inserted into it. Tighten the bolts using engraved nuts. Bearing assemblies are mounted on top of the frame base, and stationary shafts are placed on them. Bearing assemblies are bolted through holes using engraving nuts.

To connect the hub to the gears, it is welded under the chain. The hub diameter must match that of the spindle shaft. A protrusion in the form of a groove is boiled on it, and a passage in the form of a groove is machined on the surface of the shaft; during installation, they must match. Sometimes, in order to simplify, the hubs are welded onto the shaft. Then the gears are put on the spindles and secured with two nuts: a lock nut and a main one.

Final works

In the middle part of the guide beam, placed vertically, an axle for the gear and a gate are welded under the collar. Work is performed from the side of the installed gears. The axis is located in relation to the guides so that the chain can be removed if necessary, and in the working position it was stretched.

A bar is welded to a steel strip about 50 cm in size, which will serve as a handle. It turns out a gate to which a hub is welded from the second end. For its manufacture, the rest of the pipe is taken, and it turns out that the diameter of the hub is equal to the internal size of the gears.

The gear is pressed onto the hub handle, it serves to wind the chain, a vice is used for this work. To speed up the pressing process, the gear is heated to 120˚, from which the mounting hole will expand, and after putting it on, it will decrease, and the gear will get a tight fit.

The assembly of the clamping assembly is completed by making a kind of handle; for this, a hole is drilled at the end of the bolt, where a piece of metal bar is inserted. Before throwing the chain on all three gears, the hub is attached to the axle prepared in advance and tightened with a lock nut. It turns out a gearbox in order to transmit the torque from the handle.

After completion of work, the machine is painted with oil compounds to prevent rust and corrosion from the surrounding atmosphere. Those parts of the unit that interact with each other with surfaces or rub during operation are not painted.

Drawing Features

Before you make a profile bender with your own hands, drawings, dimensions are calculated independently or taken from the Internet or printed publications. In this case, you need to thoroughly understand the design, since unsuccessful schemes will lead to loosening of the frame over time and a violation of the specified profile bending parameters. Sometimes inaccurately installed shafts contribute to the twisting of the profile or obtaining an angular radius.

According to the finished drawings, you can make a frame, position the shafts, attach the guide skids for the carriage and prepare the gearbox on the shaft. For the choice of the surface of the rollers, such information schemes are only suitable if they are intended for bending exactly the same profile as the master. But in addition to the configuration, the rolled beams differ in the size of the section, the thickness of the flange and other parameters (just refer to the assortment). Drawing unchanged can only be used if:

does not contain technical errors, for this you need to contact an experienced mechanic, he will determine the performance of the selected circuit;
the technical side of the description is developed in detail, the assembly is understandable, the drawing is provided with an extensive dimensional grid, all fastening methods are indicated, assembly units with cuts are drawn and the interaction of adjacent elements is provided;
the design of the machine does not require the use of little-known materials and components that cannot be bought or ordered.

Based on the finished drawings, the master can correct some of the provisions by adjusting the schemes to individual conditions. When performing assembly diagrams pay attention to such questions:

the configuration of the surface of the supporting and counter rollers is determined taking into account the shape of the shaped section of the rolled product, and not only with the size at the end;
some types of rolled products, for example, a corner or a channel, bend successfully if the direction of bending is taken into account when installed in the unit (the shelf is located up or down).

A feature of the choice of the side surface of the roller disk is that it is required to minimize the possibility of tearing out the profile, its twisting, as a result there should be no crumpled shelves. This is important not only for a small section, but also large profiles with thick shelves cannot withstand the load. Therefore, the design of the roller sides is given attention during development.

A profile of a relatively simple section, for example, square or round (pipes), does not require the complication of side planes. In this case, the appearance is flat and even, and if complex sections are bent, then choose the following solutions:

The round or oval shape of the rod dictates the formation of a groove or a kind of groove with a section of the corresponding type on the side plane of the roller.
To bend a profile of a rectangular or square section without protruding shelves, the lateral appearance of the disks is made in the correct rectangular shape with sides. At the same time, the thickness of the disc is selected taking into account the fact that the outer dimensions of the rolled products fit exactly into the inner space between the sides, which firmly hold the product.
If you need to bend the corner so that the resulting arch has the inner side of the profile outside (bending along the outer side), then the surface of the working disk is flat, but a board is placed to hold it. The supporting disk is made with a flat appearance, and the disks are shifted from one another by a distance of the thickness of the corner shelf.
In the case of bending the angle on the inside, the working roller is made flat, and the sides are provided on the disks of stationary shafts.
When bending the channel, the situation is almost the same as with the corner. Bending on the outer side requires the implementation of the board on the plane of the working roller, while the stationary disks are made flat. Reverse bending requires retaining flanges on the backing plates, and the worker is performed with a flat appearance.
To work with an I-beam, the cross-sectional side section of the working and stationary disks is made in size such that it corresponds to the internal size between the profile shelves. The ends of the disks must fit snugly inside the I-profile and prevent its deformation.
To make an arch from an I-beam, in which there will be shelves at the bottom and at the top (bending across the shelves), you need to perform a complex configuration on the side planes of the roller, while two sides are made on the support and moving roller.

A roll forming unit that is universal for all types of profiles cannot be made. An option for a workshop that offers bending services would be to make separate sets of three discs bolted to the shafts and replaced with others as needed.