How to make an ax - step-by-step instructions for making and assembling with your own hands. Do-it-yourself ax (67 photos) - we create a combat, decorative and working tool How to make a battle ax

An ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many workflows, resulting in an excellent result. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It will not take much time, effort and money. Today we will take a closer look at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed both in household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets, you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax detail. It is believed that a real master will go around the whole forest before he finds the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax handle. In most cases, the indicated element of the ax is constructed from the root section of the birch, and even better if the growths that are present on its trunk are used. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and wavy structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other hardwood deciduous trees. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable high quality handles. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making an ax handle. We still need to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The blanks must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - an average of 3-4 years, and even longer is better (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and it will not work to make a good ax handle.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the desired degree, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be a great helper in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax handle based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which is usually from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It must also be taken into account that all existing types of axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

  • carpentry;
  • lumberjack;
  • branchy;
  • cleaver;
  • butcher's.

Before proceeding with the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

  • So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
  • When making an ax handle for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the mark of 0.5 m.
  • To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for an allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.

The template with its correct shape and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard sheet.

Step by step instructions for making

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology for the work. Let's get to know her:

  • mark the workpiece using a template;
  • after that, it can be carefully cut with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
  • further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number of important rules that must be followed in the course of work.

  • The processing of the fixing place of the ax handle must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in its place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
  • Do not use a file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the tree. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use not a file, but a finely abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
  • It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fixing place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, for him the indicated angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.

When making an ax handle yourself, you need to act very carefully. It's not worth rushing. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do it.

  • Adjust the top of the piece to fit the eye of the blade. Remove the excess part of the tree with a knife. Be careful.
  • On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be placed on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will drive in. Divide the segment and set another mark.
  • Lock the handle in a vertical position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second mark under the wedge.

  • At a specialized outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
  • Lay out the board on a separate countertop. Put a blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw the prepared ax on this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eye well.
  • Then set the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect from decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly not recommended to use compounds such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The best solution to protect the ax from decay will be other suitable impregnations. You can cover the handle with linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the life of natural wood. But keep in mind that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this process.

Some craftsmen add red pigment to antiseptic protective products. They turn to such a trick not at all to give the instrument a more interesting appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without straining the hand too much. Ax strikes will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect the drying of wood for the construction of an ax handle. As a result, this ends with the fact that the handle changes in size, and the metal part with the butt on it is held very poorly. It is permissible to deal with undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after it is installed on the ax handle.

A ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) is very important to use correctly. Experienced craftsmen strongly do not recommend trying to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan on cutting wood, it's best to make sure there are no solids inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly not recommended to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. The ax is not recommended to be left outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight can adversely affect the quality of the wooden part. Keep such an instrument in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

An ax is such a simple but useful tool that most home crafters have in their arsenal. It is applicable both in the conditions of a summer residence, and in many professional works, where one cannot do without good tools. If you treat the ax with care and do not forget to properly prepare it, then the result of the work will certainly please and will not cause disappointment. Today we will figure out how to make this tool with our own hands.

Features of a homemade ax

The ax is a simple and common tool that is difficult to surprise anyone. However, thanks to him, you can cope with many complex jobs and end up with an excellent result. On sale you can find both simple versions of axes, as well as more interesting and original ones, for example, with decorative inclusions. If you don’t want to spend money on a ready-made version, or you couldn’t find a suitable one among those, you can do it yourself.

Many home craftsmen, not finding the right tool for sale, undertake to make it with their own hands. Such work cannot be called impossible or super difficult, but even here it is very important to follow all the rules in order to get a good result. It should be borne in mind that there are several varieties of axes that it is possible to build on your own.

For example, there are special cleavers that are very popular today:

  • mechanical;
  • with electric drive.

Of course, the mechanical version is the simplest and easiest to implement. It is equipped with a manual drive. Making such a model with your own hands is not difficult. The drawings of mechanical tools are quite simple and understandable, and the principle of their work lies in simple mechanical manipulations. This device consists of the following main elements:

  • metal wedge;
  • spring mechanism.

Working with such a tool, the master spends a minimum of effort and time, especially if you compare this cleaver with a standard simple ax. As for the even more advanced electric cleaver, there is one main part in it, which, after activating the engine, starts its movement - it constantly rotates. The master only needs to put in a new batch of firewood for the split.

You should also be aware of other options for axes that many craftsmen can make on their own.

  • Joiner's. This tool has a small weight and size, as well as a pointed blade. It is used in cases where the most accurate and accurate work with wood is needed.
  • Taiga. This ax can also be made by hand. It is perfect for felling trees, removing knots and bark.
  • Tsalda. This tool is made to clear the area of ​​bushes.
  • Kitchen. Such tools are made exclusively for cutting bones. The kitchen ax is a small tool with a short handle and a large blade.
  • Lumberjack. Only suitable for cutting down trees. It is made from a long ax handle and a pointed wide blade. It also has other names, for example, felling.

The taiga types of axes are recognized as the most popular and practical. They are distinguished by the following features:

  • little weight;
  • small area of ​​the stabbing area;
  • unusual sharpening of the blade (the edge located at the back is several times smaller and thinner than the front).

For the manufacture of a homemade ax, certain types of trees are ideal. It should be borne in mind that materials suitable for such purposes can easily withstand significant vibration loads that occur at the moment of impact of the tool.

Any homemade ax is also distinguished by the fact that it is ideal for the master who works with it. Making this tool with your own hands, it is possible to adjust it for yourself, for your hand. The result is the most convenient, practical and easy-to-use devices.

Tools and materials

The ease of use of the ax largely depends on the correct manufacture of its handle. One of the following types of wood is ideal for this part:

  • maple;
  • ash;
  • Birch.

You definitely need to know what steel the piercing component of the future tool is made of. Acceptable materials marked 8HF, 9HF, 9XC, HVG, U7A and many others. It is only necessary to avoid the designation of MRTU, OST and TU on these parts.

Of the tools you may find useful:

  • abrasive sharpener;
  • file;
  • marker for marking;
  • chisel;
  • magnetic corner;
  • clamp;
  • sandpaper;
  • grinding disc for sharpening the blade;
  • Bulgarian;
  • Some jobs may require a welding machine.

DIY manufacturing

On your own, you can make any kind of ax. It can be simple, hunting, Scandinavian, marching, intended for throwing (throwing) or just decorative - there are a lot of options. And it is also permissible to update the tool and build a completely new and convenient tool from an old ax. In order to do such work yourself at home, you will first need to make an accurate drawing with all the indicators of the planned tool. It is important to indicate the dimensions of all parts, because they can vary greatly. For example, the stalk of an ax is not only quite large, but also medium or small, like the blade.

From the spring

A small hatchet can be made from an old spring. It can be not only a working one, but also an original decorative tool, similar to a Viking axe. You need to do such a thing in the following way.

  1. It is necessary to take an old spring from a machine with a width of 10 cm and a length of about 40 cm. Using a pre-prepared template, apply the contours of the planned fixture to the springs using a marker.
  2. Draw the contours of the ax using a grinder with cutting wheels. Then carefully sand the cut blank, giving it the desired shape.
  3. For particularly complex metal work, it is permissible to use a drill.
  4. You can use an old chair leg as a handle. Drill 3 holes in the spring for fastening to the handle.
  5. Cut off the leg to the desired length. Cut this piece into two halves. Drill 3 holes in each of them. After that, you need to assemble the handle, fixing it with bolts and screws. Draw the shape of the part on the grinder.
  6. Finally, sharpen the blade. The result will be a beautiful mini hatchet. It is suitable for outdoor recreation or in a summer cottage.

From reinforcement

From this part you can make a good cleaver. It is done like this.

  • Take two reinforcement parts with a length of 50 cm and 8 blanks to make the lower and upper squares.
  • Using reinforcement, weld a couple of squares. Then weld the racks.

  • For a cleaver blade, it is desirable to take steel with a thickness of 8-10 mm. Weld the knife to the reinforcing bases.
  • Now focus on sharpening the angle of attack. Place the knife in the middle of the structure.

After that, a simple homemade cleaver can be considered complete. It can be a good alternative to a mechanical or screw device.

From a circular saw

A good ax can be built from an old circular saw. To make a reliable and strong tool in this case, you only need a carved disk from a circular. Consider how to make an ax from such a part (there is no need to harden the disk, since it is already hardened).

  • Make a drawing of the future tool on cardboard or paper. Cut out the resulting template. Put it on disk.
  • Cut out the desired part with the impeller.
  • Heat the resulting part using a burner. Drill 2 holes for the wood handle.

  • Cut off the excess leftovers from the bottom half of the piece.
  • Clean the hatchet well using sandpaper.
  • Cut out the wood handle. Lubricate the two halves of this element separated from each other with adhesive, install a pair of screws.
  • Clean the handle. Varnish. This will complete the work.

From stone

You can make an ax using stones. This material makes good blades. However, it should be borne in mind that their manufacture is a rather laborious and lengthy process. Suitable types of stones:

  • granite;
  • quartzite;
  • sandstone.

For such a tool, it is desirable to make an oak handle. This material is characterized by reliability and sufficient rigidity. Take a pre-made blank. It should be free of knots and other wood defects. Make an incision moving along the fibers under the anatomy of the handle. To do this, use a jigsaw with fine teeth. At the tip of the handle, make a slight slope, "looking" down. This is necessary so that the planned ax does not slip in your hands as you work.

Further, a hole can be made in the stone specifically for the cone, using a drill or a bench machine. After that, it will be necessary to hammer the prepared handle into the wedge. If you make a classic stone ax, then it is worth attaching the blade to a special wide-width Kevlar tape. Such parts are famous for their reliability and durability, so it will be safe to work with a homemade tool.

These rules should be followed when making a stone axe.

  1. Grind the stone in such a way that it fits as close as possible to the end of the handle. Only in this way will it be easiest to tie it.
  2. It makes no sense to use very expensive specialized devices and machines in the manufacture of this tool. Just remove the top layer from the stone. This will be enough.
  3. Never make a handle out of raw wood. If you do not follow this rule, then over time you may encounter the fact that this part will dry out and noticeably decrease in size. The tool will be unusable.

If everything is done correctly, you will get a reliable, durable and wear-resistant tool that will solve many of the problems that home craftsmen face in the country.

Recently there has been a real boom in blacksmithing. Youth becomes blacksmiths. Knives and axes made by them are real works of art.

Nothing is impossible

Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, it turns out to be much more difficult.


In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, breakdowns for an eye. This set of tools is not for everyone. Of course, you can make a bugle and breakouts, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.

Making an ax by the locksmith method

Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the locksmith method. The ax consists of three parts:

  • ax blade
  • ax handle

If everything is clear with the materials for the manufacture of an ax handle and a wedge, then the question of what, most importantly how, to make a canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the canvas consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:

  • blade metal strip
  • piece of pipe for the butt

Blade

A full size drawing will show the amount of material needed. The blade needs a hard metal, such as a car spring.

We transfer the contour of the drawing to the spring and saw off everything superfluous. We also do descents with the help of a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal, so that the edge remains solid and keeps sharpening well.


Butt

For the butt of a medium ax, you will need a pipe with an inner diameter of 38-40 mm. Better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it, for example, with a gas burner, and squeeze it in a yew to give it a more rectangular shape.

Canvas assembly

We connect the blade and butt by welding. It is important to boil the metal with high quality so that the ax does not crack during operation.

Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, grind again. For extra strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.

ax

A good ax implies the presence of a properly made ax handle. To the question - what can an ax handle be made of, there is a simple answer - from hardwood.

The most common tree for making an ax handle is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping firewood, but for the soul, then you should look for a wood species with a more expressive texture.

Wood for the hatchet

An ax handle made of ash, elm, hornbeam will look very nice. It is problematic only to buy boards from such types of wood in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can use the Internet trading.


The tree for the ax handle should be well dried, be free of knots. At home, a wooden board is dried at room temperature for six months

The longer the wood dries, the stronger the ax handle will be. According to customs, wooden blanks were dried for years in the attics of houses.

Action plan

Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax handle with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. A list of actions will help to avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.

Note!

The step-by-step process of how to make a pen at home will look like this:

  • drawing up a sketch of an ax handle and a template
  • wood processing
  • ax attachment
  • finish coating.

Sketch and template of an ax handle

For comfortable work, the ax is made about 50-70 cm. By drawing a sketch in full size, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.

Roughing

According to the template, we outline the contour of the handle on the tree and cut out the workpiece. We give a more rounded shape to the handle. For these purposes, you can use a planer, chisels or a small hatchet.


Fit

The next step in the manufacture of an ax handle is to fit the shape and ergonomics. We grind the tree to give the correct shape and comfortable grip.

For these purposes, a large rasp is perfect, as well as a grinding power tool. The main thing here is not to weaken the place where the ax is mounted on the ax handle.

Note!

Sanding and assembly

After rough processing, we sand the handle with sandpaper and make a slot under the wedge. We plant the ax on the handle and drive in the wedge. Many people advise to put the wedge on glue or epoxy. The choice is yours.

Finishing

The assembled ax is carefully polished with fine sandpaper. The tree can be stained or left as is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.

For greater exclusivity, the ax handle can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire cuts. On the canvas of the ax, the pattern etched in saline will look beautiful.

Conclusion

Buying an ax for chopping wood is very simple, and there is no need to make it yourself for this purpose. Homemade axes are more used as a subject of creativity, but he is able to fulfill his direct duties.

Some independent copies will give odds to industrial designs, give the owners a reason for pride and pleasure from the work done.


Photo of a homemade ax

Note!

Undoubtedly, people who live in a private house or often go on hikes need such an indispensable tool as an ax. To buy it, you just need to go to the market.

If you have questions about the quality of the purchased ax, you can make it yourself. Moreover, this can be done very easily if you use the instructions and tips for its manufacture.

Ax classification

Axes are of the following types:

  1. Carpentry. Light, small axes necessarily with a sharp blade. Designed for cutting and precise work with wood.
  2. Carpentry universal. Axes of different weights. They don't have big handles. They are used for inaccurate wood processing.
  3. Lumberjack's ax. Used for cutting wood, has a wide blade and a long handle.
  4. Ice ax Used in mountaineering. It consists of a spike, a head, a blade and a handle sharpened at the base. Outwardly, it looks like a pickaxe.
  5. Cleaver. A cone-shaped ax with a large weight. The shape and weight help split hard woods.
  6. Blacksmith. With this ax it is possible to chop off metal materials. They put an ax to the place where you need to chop off, and hit the butt with a hammer.
  7. Potes. With its help, they cut a tree. For efficiency, the ax has a rounded blade.
  8. Povarskaya. An ax with a shortened handle and a heavy and sharp cutting surface.
  9. Paznik. Used for grooving with a rib on a blade. The cutting part is perpendicular to the ax handle.
  10. Fireman. An ax with a metal handle that is insulated to withstand a voltage of 1000W. Its peculiarity is that there is a spike on the butt, which is used to cut a passage through the rubble.
  11. Storm firefighter. Massive ax with a long handle. In case of fire, it is used to break down heavy structures.
  12. Tourist. A small ax with a short handle. It happens in combination with a knife or saw. For safety, it comes with a case.
  13. Tsalda. The ax blade, made in the form of a sickle, is used to clean the area from small shrubs.

Self-manufacturing

The order of work is as follows:

Ax extrusion work

Before starting work, it is necessary to make transverse cuts at the top and bottom of the timber. The depth of the cuts should not reach the line of the ax by 2-3 mm. Chisel remove the extra layer of wood. With a rasp, cut out places where corners and transitions are needed. At the end, the ax handle is polished with sandpaper.


Choice of piercing part

At home, a metal sheet cannot be made, so you need to know what to look for when choosing it in a building market:

  • ideally, steel should be marked according to GOST;
  • the eye must be in the shape of a cone;
  • the blade should not have dents, bends or notches;
  • if you look at the butt, then its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

Mounting an ax on an ax handle

You can do this by following these simple steps:

  1. On the ax in the upper part, transverse and longitudinal cuts are made.

  2. Cut 5 wedges from hardwood.

  3. The gauze soaked in resin is wound over the ax handle for a tighter passage into the eye.

  4. Hammer the ax into the eye of the ax.

  5. Drive wedges into the cuts.

  6. After drying, the protruding parts of the wedges are cut off.


Blade sharpening

Good functionality of the ax will ensure the correct sharpening of the blade. Depending on the type of work performed, you should choose the angle of sharpening.

For example, a taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 25-30 degrees. If you need to cut fresh wood, you need to sharpen at an angle of 25 degrees.


If a grinding wheel is used, the butt should be held at a 45 degree angle. All movements are performed smoothly, without jerks.

As you can see, having a small set of tools in the arsenal, instructions for making an ax, it is not at all difficult to make it to your size and needs.

See video instruction for making a taiga ax with your own hands:

Do not confuse a real taiga ax and a simple, familiar type of tool that is often found in home tools. The taiga ax is a special kind that will help out even in the harshest conditions of a hike or hunt. Finding such a tool at an inexpensive price is quite difficult, but if you have the skills, you can try to make it yourself.

A good strong knife is an indispensable companion for any hunter, huntsman, hiker or forester. But in some cases, its power and size in the forest, and especially in the Taiga, is not enough, or it is not very convenient to use. In this case, an ax comes to the rescue. Here are some examples of actions where it can definitely come in handy:

  • Cutting trees and firewood;
  • Log processing, such as cleaning the bark. For fine woodworking, an ax is not suitable;
  • Production of hunting traps from wood;
  • Installation of huts or simple wooden structures.

As you can see, all the rough work with wood lends itself easily to the taiga axe. With it, you can arrange shelter, light a fire, and get booty.

A good taiga ax should be light enough so that its use brings results, not fatigue.


Usually the weight of the gun does not exceed 1400 grams. The main mass, of course, is contained in the metal part.

Parts of an ax

It is better to consider the features of the taiga ax in more detail, having familiarized yourself with the characteristics of its components. These include: a metal head and an ax handle.

metal head

The first striking difference between the metal part of the taiga ax and the usual carpentry tool is the absence of the upper part in it. The blade also does not have a standard straight shape, but a rounded one. This helps him penetrate deeper into the wood. And also, with such a blade, you can use a tool for cutting logs not along, but across the fibers.

The existing long beard firmly fixes the head with the ax handle, thereby reducing the risk of its fracture. It absorbs impact power up to 50-60%. This is a very important factor in the wild, where there is no way to quickly fix a broken weapon.

The butt of the taiga ax is standard. The head also has an eye where the ax handle is inserted. For tight fixation, a wooden wedge is additionally hammered.

ax

This part of the tool should be longer than the usual carpentry type. It is desirable that this indicator be at least 50 cm. This will allow you to comfortably hold the tool and carry out sweeping actions.


When connecting two parts of the tool, it must be borne in mind that the angle of inclination between them should not be the usual 90 degrees, but a smaller indicator. Approximately you can navigate 65-75 degrees. And another important criterion is that the ax, with its length, has the lightest possible weight. Otherwise, the hands will quickly get tired of working with the ax.

How to make a taiga ax

Unfortunately, not everyone can forge a new ax from steel. But if the desire to have a real taiga ax is great, and the prices in stores seem too high, you can try to make it from an ordinary carpentry tool.

Tool head manufacturing

Before you start working on the metal head of a conventional ax, it should be inspected for corrosion. If it is, then it is better to soak this part of the gun in a container of vinegar. By the time this will take at least a day. The remains of the substance are removed with a conventional brush.


A semicircle is cut out on the inside of the metal head, this allows you to make the girth comfortable

The rest of the procedure is as follows:

  1. At the metal part, the front ledge is sawn off. This must be done flush with the butt. If a protrusion of 5-7 degrees remains, then it's okay, but ideally it is better to remove it;
  2. Using a Bulgarian saw or an emery wheel, cut off the back of the blade, giving it a rounded shape;
  3. On the inner or, one might say, the lower part of the head, a semicircle is cut out. This will not only make the girth of the tool comfortable, but also significantly reduce its initial weight;
  4. You can skip this step, but if there is a desire to comply with all the conditions for the structure of the taiga ax, then it is better to comply with it. Both corners of the butt are sawn off. This step increases the maneuverability of the gun;

The metal head of the ax is ready, it remains only to sharpen it correctly.

Making an ax handle

It is necessary to pay attention to the manufacture of the ax handle no less than the metal part. After all, the usability of the tool will depend on the correct geometry.

This part of the tool is made of wood. Pine is considered the simplest option due to its easy grinding and processing properties. But there is a risk of its rapid breaking. Also, attention should be paid to such types of trees as birch, maple and ash. The length is chosen at your own discretion: from 50 to 80 cm. In some cases, a size of 100-120 cm may be more convenient.

The process of making an ax handle includes the following steps:

  1. The blank from which the ax handle will be made is determined. Its diameter must be at least 13 cm, and the length is 20 cm longer than the final version;
  2. The workpiece is cleaned. After that, they split exactly in the middle and leave to dry for a long time, preferably at least 8 weeks. It is important to consider that the humidity in the room should not be too high, and the desired temperature is maintained within 22-25 degrees;
  3. The dried workpiece is processed with a chisel. A small hammer may also come in handy in this matter. At this stage, it is important to observe the correct shape of the ax handle, which means it is better to look at the drawings and diagrams.

If this is the first self-made ax, then it is better not to rush, so as not to make a mistake in the form. Professionals in this field will need a minimum of time.

Ax assembly

When both parts of the tool are ready, it remains only to connect them. For this, epoxy resin and a piece of ordinary gauze or a medical bandage are usually used. For additional fixation of the metal head on the handle, wooden wedges are hammered.


You won’t be able to use the tool right away, you must wait at least 2 days. In order to protect the ax from corrosion, it should be coated with a special agent after sharpening and grinding. The taiga ax is ready for use.

Sharpening rules

A good hunter or forester always has an ax sharpened, because there is nothing worse than being in the forest with a blunt tool. As mentioned above, the sharpening of the blade in the taiga species is distinguished by its rounded steep shape. This already allows the blade not only to work more efficiently on wood, but also to dull less often.

manual method

A rather laborious process, but for those who like to take care of their tools, on the contrary, it can come to taste. To begin with, a special template is made, according to the dimensions of the tool. They make it from a piece of tin, determining the correct sharpening angle. The ax is applied to the finished template. And if there is a deviation angle, then they make a mark and process it.

For manual sharpening, they often take a wooden block and glue it with sandpaper. It must be coarse and fine-grained. Sharpening is done with the blade away from you. It is noted that one such bar can be enough for the whole season.

Mechanical

With a special machine, the process will go much faster and easier. But here, too, there are nuances.


Mechanical sharpening is carried out as follows:

  1. Install the machine on a flat surface;
  2. Using a marker, marks are made to change the angle of the blade. This step is done as needed;
  3. They sharpen at low speed, holding the ax with the blade away from you;
  4. At the end of the process, the grinding wheel of the device is lubricated with finishing paste. Then the tool is polished on it;
  5. The sharpened tool is treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

In order for the ax not to dull quickly, it should be stored in a special protective case. Never drop an ax on the ground. And in order to protect yourself from possible injuries, it is necessary to sharpen the tool with protective gloves.

The ax will please with its performance for a long time, if you do not try to cut stones and too hard objects with it. And also when cutting, it is best to put a little forest under the wood.