Electrical installation what you need to know. Electrical work: how to choose a service and a master

To connect electricity to the necessary appliances, it is laid electrical wiring in a private house or apartment . It will provide power to both lighting fixtures and special equipment, such as a washing machine or dishwasher.

Electrical wiring starts from the inlet shield of an apartment or house and is laid throughout the building. It is divided for the needs of lighting fixtures and for power consumers, such as sockets and stationary household appliances. In general, it is good to group electrical wiring by floors and rooms, according to their purpose, for example, a lighting group, a socket group, and technological devices. This ensures ease of use, as well as proper protection of devices by circuit breakers with an appropriate characteristic.

What should be taken into account when electrical wiring and its installation? First of all, it is necessary to develop the optimal configuration of the route, taking into account the location of power receivers, architectural features, as well as adjacent engineering networks. Depending on the type of walls and interior finishes, the laying method will depend.

Wiring separation scheme

It can be open (rarely used and has a rather decorative function) or closed:

Open laying method involves the use of rollers mounted on building structures or walls along which wires are laid.
private method - electrical wiring is hidden in wall and floor strobes, cable ducts, skirting boards, as well as behind plasterboard or other finishing material. Chasing walls is a labor-intensive process, therefore this laying method is one of the most costly, unlike laying behind finishing materials, for example behind drywall, where only corrugated PVC pipe and fasteners are supposed to be used.

In places with a high fire hazard, it is necessary to carry out electrical wiring in metal pipes or metal hoses, for example, in saunas, baths and on structures made of flammable materials. Depending on the chosen method how to wire , will depend on the choice of necessary materials and components.

Materials for electrical wiring

The main component of any electrical wiring is a cable or wire, usually with copper conductors. Aluminum conductors are currently used for electrical wiring of houses and apartments quite rarely - this is due to their low bandwidth.

Cable for electrical work

Wiring cable can be single-core (rigid) or multi-core (flexible).

Single-core has a low cost, but is also less convenient to install. To carry out hidden wiring in strobes, a cable or flat wire is often used, which makes the strobe less deep.

Also, to perform electrical wiring, you must:

junction boxes with terminal blocks for branching;
mounting boxes for sockets, switches;
PVC corrugated pipe, metal conduit or other cable-supporting systems (cable duct, rigid pipe);
cable lugs if the installation is carried out with a flexible wire.

Connections in junction boxes are made through terminal blocks, twisting using special caps, as well as by soldering (the most reliable method in terms of electrical contact).

Budget calculation

So, as we can see, electrical wiring requires an integrated approach when choosing components and materials, as well as taking into account many factors. In order to competently design electrical wiring, and then, based on the project, determine wiring cost , you can use the services of design bureaus (companies) or ask an “electrician neighbor” to help (here you need to take into account certain risks), or you can try to do it yourself without going into details.

After spending a little time, at the end you will have the cost of materials, as well as estimate for electrical work based on average market prices in your area.

Additional information is in the video below.

When carrying out repair work, one of the most important roles is played by electrical work. This applies, first of all, to major repairs in an apartment, country house, office, enterprise or in any other premises. This is primarily due to the danger to life caused by interaction with electricity. In addition, an important condition is the initial conduct of electricity in accordance with all the rules and regulations, because an illiterate electrical installation in the future may entail significant material costs and more.

If a person does not know all the intricacies of electrical installation, then, at first glance, it may seem to him that these works are nothing complicated. It seems that what difficulties will arise during electrical installation? You take the wires, lay them out on the necessary surfaces and connect the switches and sockets ... But, unfortunately, the electrical installation work does not end there. The basis of a professional approach to electrical installation, first of all, is the convenience and further use of the installed electrical system, competent laying and connection of this system, taking into account the load and many other nuances.

Before you undertake electrical work yourself, think carefully - if you save money today, this does not mean at all that in the future you will not have to correct your own mistakes, and, at best, you will be able to correct them only with the help of material means.

First of all, find competent specialists with experience in this field. Only qualified specialists with certain skills and relevant education will be able to perform electrical installation professionally and take into account all the subtleties of the power supply project. In this case, improvisations and unauthorized retreats are unacceptable, because in the near future they are fraught with significant problems.

The main methods of electrical installation in residential and non-residential premises

The method of conducting electrical work depends on the planned type of electrical wiring in this room. Wiring is open type and hidden. In residential premises, it is customary to use the hidden option, which is the most successful in terms of aesthetics and safety. Wiring in this case is carried out in special grooves in the wall, called strobes. Subsequently, the laid and fixed wires are hidden in the strobes with plaster. This option is convenient when building a house or other residential premises. This is how the walls are laid out.

If the ceiling is planned to be suspended or suspended, the wires are laid (attached) along the ceiling.

If a screed is planned on the floor, it is more convenient to conduct electrical wiring along the floor, for example, in a corrugation. Together with the pulling (laying) of the power cable, it is advisable to provide for the wiring of low-current lines: Internet wire, telephone, television, audio, etc.

The hidden type of electrical installation includes methods: in pipes, in the voids of building structures, in metal flexible hoses, etc.

When carrying out open installation, of course, the electrical wiring is laid outside - on the surface of the ceilings and walls of the room itself and on the surfaces of building elements of residential and non-residential premises. Open mounting methods: in pipes, in flexible metal sleeves, in trays, in boxes and in special electrical skirting boards, cable channels, etc.

If there is a need for additional switches and sockets when the repair of the premises is already completed, then the best option is to use cable channels. This makes it possible to keep expensive tiles and wallpapers safe. Moreover, it is convenient to lay low-current lines in cable channels, if they were not carried out initially. A feature of wiring in cable channels is the rather low cost of electrical work, as well as the convenience of replacing and dismantling wiring.

If there is a need to install electrical wiring using one of the open-type methods in utility or non-residential premises, then it is easier to use a corrugated pipe instead of cable channels. This material is much more convenient in terms of installation, because you do not have to cut and make corners. Also, the corrugated pipe bends easily, which also makes it very "popular". It is enough to pull the wire in with a probe, and the corrugated pipe can already be fixed (for example, with clips).

Wiring features

Route laying.

Routes must be laid parallel to each other or perpendicular. In this case, it is important to strictly observe the rules regarding the laying of a protective conductor.

Marking lines and wiring connections. Wiring in our team involves the mandatory marking of all power lines and junction boxes. This is essential for the recognition of the conductor by color along its entire length.

Calculation of parameters.

If necessary, our specialists will undertake an accurate calculation of all the necessary parameters: calculation of leakage currents, selection of cable cross-sections, calculation of automation operation.

In the process of electrical installation, we try to link the installation of low-voltage lines with the laying of power circuits. Moreover, we always pay attention to the design of the room and start from its parameters. We carry out all electrical installation work in compliance with current legal regulations.

The electrical equipment of the house must comply with the requirements of current building codes, state standards and regulations. Important regulatory and technical documents are the "Electrical Installation Rules" (PUE), as well as the "Instructions for the power supply of individual residential buildings and other private structures" drawn up on their basis, according to which the following requirements must be met.

The electrical equipment of the house must comply with the requirements of current building codes, state standards and regulations. Important regulatory and technical documents are the "Electrical Installation Rules" (PUE), as well as the "Instructions for the power supply of individual residential buildings and other private structures" drawn up on their basis, according to which the following requirements must be met.
To obtain a permit for the use of electricity, the consumer must submit an application to the power supply organization, to the networks of which it is planned to connect private property.
The application must indicate :

name of the object of private property;
location;
voltage level (0.23; 0.4) in kilovolts (kV), i.e. standard voltages for consumers 220 and 380 V;
input type (single-phase, three-phase);
the need to use electricity for heating and hot water.
For private property, it is mandatory to carry out a power supply project (with a total installed capacity of more than 10 kW), in which decisions must be made on:
external and internal power supply scheme;
scheme of internal wiring: the type of wires and the way they are laid;
diagram of input devices;
calculation of electrical loads;
selection of installations of automatic devices and fuse links;
"> grounding or grounding (if necessary);
installation of a residual current device (RCD) at the input (if necessary - at the point of connection of the object to the mains);
electricity metering.
For private property with a total installed power of less than 10 kW, a design drawing can be made, which should reflect:
a diagram of external and internal power supply indicating the types and installations of protective devices, sections and brands of wires, rated currents, electricity meters, connection to the supply network;
situational plan for the location of electrical equipment, laying cables, wires, grounding and neutralizing conductors;
specification of electrical equipment of products and materials;

explanations, instructions, notes (if necessary).
The power supply project (draft project) is subject to agreement with the power supply organization that issued the technical specifications, and with the local authority of the State Energy Supervision Authority. The operation of electrical installations of private property must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of the Rules for the use of electricity, the Rules for the operation of electrical installations of consumers, the Safety Rules for the operation of consumers.
Responsibility for the technical condition and safe operation of electrical installations, electrical wiring, electrical equipment (instruments, apparatus, etc.) of private property rests with the individual owner.
At objects located territorially in one place, as a rule, installation of only one electric meter should be provided. For garden and country houses in front of the meter to turn it off, it is allowed to install a switching device or a fuse.
The electrical safety of people both inside the facility and outside should be ensured by a set of electrical protective technical measures, including the use of RCDs, both at the point of connection to the owner of electrical networks and inside the facility, re-grounding the neutral wire at the air inlet, zeroing electrical receivers, the use of double insulation.
For grounding, a separate conductor with a cross section equal to the phase should be used, laid from the inlet cabinet (box). This conductor is connected to the neutral conductor of the supply network in front of the meter. The use of a working neutral conductor for this purpose is prohibited.
The connection of electrical installations of private property to the electrical network is carried out by the personnel of the energy supply organization that issued the technical specifications.
The consumer must ensure the serviceability of his electrical installations and "> ouzo connection diagrams. The consumer is not allowed to connect an electrical load in excess of that permitted in the technical conditions, as well as increase the rated currents of fuses and other protective devices defined by the project. All electrical equipment must meet the requirements of GOST and be industrial manufacturing.

Cable brand selection

1. Each core of the wire must be rigid (single-core), because. All sockets and switch are designed for hard wire installation.
2. Choice of brand of occasion. There are mainly three types of wire used: NYM, VVG, PUNP.
The NYM cable is a cable with single-wire copper conductors, which has a reliable triple insulation.
The first layer is PVC, the second layer is rubber sheath, the third layer is each copper core in PVC. But this thread is not without its drawbacks. It is not recommended to put it in raw concrete and carry it out in the open air, it has a large diameter and is quite expensive.
But, if you are doing wiring in an apartment and want something more reliable, then take, of course, NYM.
VVG cable - a cable with copper single-core current-carrying conductors, with PVC-compound insulation - value for money. It has double insulation: common PVC and each strand in PVC.
VVG can be laid anywhere: both on the street and in concrete. Its insulation is slightly worse than that of NYM, but better than that of PUNP.
If you do not need extra expenses, we choose the simplest and most used PUNP wire for domestic purposes. It has double insulation: 1st PVC is common; 2nd each lived in PVC. Its insulation is thinner than that of NYM and VVG, but not bad either. If we take PUNP from the Moscow plant, then its insulation will be thicker than that of other manufacturers.
Now we select the cross section of the wire, and the number of cores. According to the existing standard, the wire must be three-core. The usual color combination of wire cores: zero - blue, phase - white, earth - yellow-green. The cross section of the wire for sockets is 2.5mm2, for lighting - 1.5mm2, and for the electric stove - 4mm2.

Circuit breaker selection

Consider several manufacturers -IEK, ABB, LEGRAND and DEC.

IEK is currently one of the most common brands in Russia. The conductors inside and the clamping contacts are copper-plated on the outside. They are no different in quality from their foreign counterparts, and some even overtook them in terms of performance. The cost is approximately equal to the cost of ABB, LEGRAND

In ABB machines, all conductors inside and outside clamps are copper, which improves contact with the wire and reduces heat. The tripping of this circuit breaker in the event of a network overload is a few milliseconds faster than that of the DEK.

In LEGRAND automation, the conductors inside and the clamping contacts on the outside are copper-plated. Also of good quality and are on a par with ABB.

In DEK electric machines, clamping contacts are metal. Work normally provided that they are native. Shutdown is a little slower than ABB and LEGRAND.

Electrical equipment in the apartment must be reliable. The safety of your home depends on it. Any automation must be taken in special stores, such as: "ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION", "CABLE-WIRE", etc., where they can confirm the quality of the product. This will rule out fakes. Automation on the market can cost more and be of dubious quality.

Procurement of material for the electrical installation of the apartment

1. This is a drawing on the plan of the apartment of places where sockets, switches, lamps, a TV, a telephone, a dishwasher, etc. will be installed. In short, anything electrical.

2. We count the number of individual power lines. For example: a two-room apartment is a stove, a washing machine, kitchen sockets 1, kitchen sockets 2, sockets in the 1st room, sockets in the 2nd room, water heater, light. In total, 8 separate power lines are obtained. From this number of lines, we consider the footage of the electric wire and the number of electric machines.

If the apartment is small, 60 sq.m., then the approximate amount of electrical wire is as follows -
electric stove - 15-20 meters VVG - 3*4mm2,
sockets - 100 meters VVG - 3 * 2.5 mm2,
light - 100 meters VVG - 3 * 1.5 mm2.

Based on 8 groups, we buy automation. To the light - 16 A, to the stove - 32 A, to the water heater (accumulative) - 16 A, to all other sockets 25 A each.
Plus, an introductory bipolar machine for 50 A and a common RCD for 63A and 30 μA leakage current. You can put differential automata or RCDs in groups, but this is a more expensive option).
We also need -
television wire RG-6 - 50 meters,
telephone wire (preferably 4-wire) - 40 meters,
electrical socket boxes - 40 pcs. (plastic with places for fastening on four sides),
self-tapping screws 35 mm - 0.5 kg,
dowels - 200 pcs. (for attaching wires),
soldered electrical boxes - 6 pcs. (for branching wires),
corrugated pipe - 100 meters (wires are carried in it if they go under a plasterboard ceiling or under a floor screed.),
alabaster - 20 kg
electrical tape - 6 pcs.

How to arrange sockets and switches

Typically, sockets are located at a height of 25 cm from the floor (the middle of the socket). Switches - 80-90 cm from the floor. Kitchen sockets are located on a tile apron, at a height of 1 m from the floor.

Sockets in the room must be waterproof and located at least 1 m from the floor level, which is dictated by safety requirements.

The places of sockets and switches and their number are determined from convenience - furniture does not block, platbands and skirting boards do not interfere with installation, the wire from the electrical appliance reaches the outlet, each electrical appliance has its own outlet (it is better to do without a tee so safer).

Chasing walls and streams in concrete and brick apartments for hidden electrical wiring

Shtrobleniye is a heavy, noisy and dusty work. Especially if you are cutting concrete. It is necessary to ditch not only the grooves for the wires, but also the recesses for the sockets and the niche for the shield. Therefore, before strobe, think carefully about the direction of the strobe in order to reduce their length if possible, but at the same time do not forget that all strobes must go strictly at right angles. It is both professional and beautiful, and most importantly, you can see where and where the wire sticking out of the wall comes from (less likely to interrupt or drill it).

To save money, if we have sockets on the same wall on both sides, we make a strobe on one side of the wall, and to exit to the other side we drill a hole. As a result, we got only one strobe on two sides of the wall. We also deal with overhead light for chandeliers, etc.

In order to ditch the walls, you need a puncher, the power of which depends on the strength of the walls, and a grinder with a diamond blade. If conditions permit, the apartment is not residential, it will be faster if you cut through all the planned strobes with a grinder with a diamond disc or a chasing cutter, and then hollow out the rest with a perforator.
But this is too dusty work and you need to work in all protective equipment (respirator, goggles, gloves, headphones, although many work without the last 3). If there are no conditions or you don’t like a lot of dust, you can do the same job with just a perforator.

It is easier to punch with a puncher at the joints of the plates (two walls, a ceiling and a wall, 2 ceilings), because as a rule, they are smeared with a light cement mixture.

You can gouge with a spatula or a special shtrobnik, but they, as a rule, quickly become dull, since they do not have a hard victorious layer at the end. The best option is to perform gating with a drill with a diameter of 12-14 mm. It is rather difficult to blunt its victorious tip, and it costs less than a spatula and a shtrobnik.

The recesses for the sockets are drilled with a special crown (for plaster or brick) or, if the wall is concrete, it will be faster to do this with the same drill. To do this, we draw the dimensions of the socket boxes on the wall, drill holes along the perimeter and inside the markings with a depth slightly greater than the depth of the socket box, set the puncher to only slotting and with the same drill we hollow out all the excess inside the mark.

Wiring of electrical and low-current (TV, telephone, internet, acoustics) wires.

All electrical wires are led from the electrical panel to the locations of sockets or soldering boxes, from them again to sockets or soldered boxes, etc.

All low-current wires are conducted from the ladder low-current shield to each individual point located in the apartment.
The wire is fastened in the strobes with the help of dowels and brackets with self-tapping screws.

It is better to lead the electrical wire to the light along the ceiling in a corrugated pipe (if there is a suspended plasterboard ceiling), if there is no false ceiling, then in a strobe along the junction of the ceiling and wall to the place of the electric soldered box (usually it is 15 cm away from the ceiling and located above the switch) , from it to the chandelier at the junction of ceiling tiles, etc. in all rooms.

It is better to lead the electrical wire to the socket group and low-current wires along the floor along the walls in separate corrugated pipes (if it is possible to remove the corrugated pipe under the floor cement screed), if not, then in the strobe at the level of the sockets to their location.

Advice on embedding wall sockets

We insert the electrical sockets into the recesses, insert the wires into them and stir the alabaster, after wetting the recess with water. We smear the socket boxes with alabaster so that they do not protrude from the wall.

Locating a Cable Fault

During the operation of the electrical network, cases of hidden damage to electrical wires often occur, and this is at a time when the cable is under load. This happens for various reasons, but most often due to a defective wire during production or poor-quality wiring. In the place of a rupture or mechanical damage, the wire will heat up, and in this case, with an increase in the power of the electrical load, the core of the hidden electrical wiring burns out and breaks.

But what if the wire is not visually visible? How to find a break in the hidden electrical wiring in the wall, if this happened? Irreplaceable assistants in detecting a break in the electrical wiring in the wall are devices called non-contact signaling devices (indicators) of hidden wiring. They are called non-contact, since during operation they do not directly come into contact with current-carrying wires. And to detect a break in a hidden wire, it is enough to drive them along the wall in order to receive the appropriate signals about the presence of a wire there in general and the voltage on it.

A specialist, having a non-contact signaling device in his arsenal, will quickly find the place of the break. Then, turning off the power supply, he carefully and accurately gouges a small hole in the wall where the damaged wires are located, after which he installs a hidden junction box at the break point, connecting the wires in it with WAGO clamps. Smoller-p (www.smoller-p) specialists are armed with a number of portable instrument models for detecting hidden electrical wiring, here are just a few of them:

Convenient and easy to detect a wire break in the wall will help the probe (voltage indicator) MS-58ACM. Detection of a wire break with the MS-58ACM probe is carried out by a non-contact method called "dialing". This probe allows you to determine the presence of hidden electrical wiring deepened in the wall up to 60 cm. In addition to the "ringing" function to detect a wire break, this device can monitor voltage from 70 to 600 volts, determine the location of the cable and wire in the wall, and also determine low voltage in high current circuits.

The specialists of the Smoller-p company (smoller-p.ru) are also armed with an E121 hidden electrical wiring signaling device (DYATEL) that is also capable of detecting an electrical wire in the wall and the place of its rupture. It has additional features such as meter phasing check, microwave oven leak detection and other electrical measurements.

In addition, these devices help energy supervisory organizations to identify thieves of household electricity. Kidnappers are often mistaken in the fact that, thrown into an apartment and walled up, an unaccounted phase will not be found by anyone. Various frauds with phase and zero transfers on the electric meter will also not work. With the above devices, everything will be revealed without much difficulty. And unscrupulous "consumers" will be punished by substantial fines.

When a cable is damaged in the ground, you do not need to dig large areas to find its location. It is necessary to contact the specialists, with the help of modern route finders they will find the power cable and determine the location of the malfunction. It is very convenient to detect a cable break in the ground with the Stalker-2 tracer.

After locating the location, the electricians will repair the damaged cable with a coupler. After completing all the necessary electrical work, it is necessary to measure the insulation resistance.

Preventive measures during electrical work
In order for all electrical installations in an apartment, cottage, office to work properly, have a longer service life and avoid emergencies, it is necessary to operate them correctly, conduct inspections on time and carry out preventive repairs.
External electrical networks should be inspected once a month. When performing this operation, pay attention to the following factors:
a) are there any defects in the insulators, i.e. Cracks, chips, traces of burns;
b) the cores of the wires are melted or not, are there any breaks in the fasteners of the wires, are they adjusted correctly;
c) the bandages of wooden supports are serviceable or not, in what condition are the racks of reinforced concrete supports;
d) whether the wires touch the branches of trees, the roofs of buildings, etc.
e) serviceable or not grounding;
f) in what condition are the inputs in the buildings;
g) the cable terminations are serviceable or not.

Internal wiring should be inspected from time to time, paying attention during inspections to the condition of the insulation, the density of the contact connection, etc.
Typically, faults in internal wiring are caused by improper or careless operation, poor electrical work, aging and wear of equipment, etc.
If lime is used to decorate the room, the wiring cannot be whitewashed. The water contained in the lime solution damages the wire insulation and can lead to a short circuit.
When inspecting the internal wiring, it is imperative to check the correct tension of the wires and the reliability of their fastening.
In case of detection of faulty sockets, insulating rollers, tubes, funnels and bushings, they must be replaced with new, sagging wires, tighten and secure.

Since in modern construction internal wiring is carried out in a hidden way, special care must be taken when drilling holes in the walls. Very often, when performing this operation, a short circuit occurs due to the short circuit of the drill with a live wire.
When inspecting, maintaining and repairing electrical installations, it is imperative to comply with safety regulations and fire and electrical safety rules.
Principles of operation of the residual current device

The concept of an RCD, or if not abbreviated, then the Residual Cutout Device entered our lives imperceptibly, and now this abbreviation is heard from everywhere - RCD.

It is necessary to install an RCD, it knocks out electricity and saves lives.

Let's discuss what RCD protects and from whom it actually protects, and whether it is needed at all. RCD design of power supply for housing is not performed.

In the new (7th edition) PUE there are requirements prescribing to protect dignity. node, as well as an air conditioner installed at home, using an RCD. And there is nowhere to go. But after all, it is possible to protect the apartment with the help of an RCD entirely by putting it on the supply line, although this is not worth doing, why, as described below.

The principle of operation of the RCD

The principle of operation of the RCD is based on the principle of comparing the current of the phase and neutral wires. And as soon as the difference in current between the phase - the current that has left the RCD and passed through your, for example, a kettle, and returned through the neutral wire, reaches the permissible leakage value - the RCD is cut off (more precisely, the magneto-electric relay is cut down, however, the essence of the matter is not changes - the circuit is broken RCD cut out).

So where does the current go? And the current, which the RCD missed, passed along some kind of workaround - PAST the supply wire, which was protected by the RCD! And this path can pass through your body! That's why the RCD turns off.

Why does the current passing through the RCD not kill us

And what exactly is needed for the current to kill a person? Cardiac fibrillation must come! And for this, the current must have a certain value and flow through us for a certain time. In the human dimension, very small - from 0.15 seconds to kill a child. And the RCD is an extremely fast device and it turns off in 0.05 seconds! And the heart does not have time to start fibrillation! A life is saved if the RCD leakage current does not exceed 100 milliamps. Therefore, the RCD must be selected correctly.

The choice of RCD or what they are

So, we choose an RCD for our house.

RCDs are of type "A" and type "AC", as well as type "A" and "AC" at once. RCD type "A" acts on direct current and you, at home and in the country, are not required. For our ordinary household purposes, we need an RCD of the AC type - for alternating current. You can also buy a combined RCD "A" and "AC", but it will be a waste of money.

So, the type of RCD is selected - "AS". Now let's move on to the leakage current. The leakage current scale for different manufacturers may vary slightly, or there may not be one of the ratings, but usually the ratings are: 10 mA, 30 mA, 100 mA, 300 mA. RCDs for 10 and 30 mA will save your life, for 100 and 300 mA they are designed to protect against fire and other dangers associated with breaking the integrity of the wire and / or getting it wet, aging.

We have to choose between 30 mA and 10 mA. Further, everything is very simple - 30 mA is designed to protect 2-3 circuits, and 10 mA for one circuit. That is, in simple terms, a 30 mA RCD can protect a bathroom, a couple of sockets in the corridor and an air conditioner or a washing machine. And a 10 mA RCD can protect, as a rule, one circuit - a washing machine, for example, it is better to connect it through a 10 mA RCD. Next, you need to select the operating current of the RCD - the operating currents are the same as the operating currents of the machines - 6, 10, 16, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63 A. The current depends on the amount of load that you connect, on the cross section of the wire that you connect from the machine that protects the RCD. If you do not want to do an electrical project, but you need to reliably protect the circuit, then know that the current of group networks rarely exceeds 25 A and by purchasing a 25 A RCD, you will almost certainly protect yourself and loved ones from electric shock.

Summing up

We learned about what types of RCDs are, the magnitude of leakage currents, and operating currents. We cannot choose the response time - by choosing the RCD leakage current of 10 mA or 30 mA. Approximately, you will need (the most common and demanded type in housing) RCD type "AC" with a rated current of 25 A leakage current of 30 mA - buy it, or contact an engineer for specific advice (please, just do not ask for advice on the construction market !! !). You can also ask a specific question on our forum.

Electrical tests carried out by our specialists indicate that RCDs of any manufacturer can save our lives, although I would advise buying equipment from well-known foreign manufacturers - ABB, legrand, moeller and other well-known companies.

RCD modifications or what is a differential machine

The above device - needs to be protected by a conventional machine - depending on the rated current - if 25 A is written on the RCD, then you need to put a machine of no more than 25 A in front of the RCD. If you put 10 or 16 A - it's not scary, there will just be some margin.

But there are RCDs, inside of which an automatic machine of the required denomination is already built in - these RCDs are called diff. automata. Diff. machines are more expensive than conventional RCDs, but more convenient to install. Distinguish RCD and diff. the machine is easy - at the diff. of the machine, the class of the electromagnetic release is indicated on the case in addition to the operating current. Here is an example of RCD marking and automatic diff:

RCD: AC, 25 A, 30 mA;
Diff. automatic: AC, C25, 30 mA

Rules for installing electrical wiring in residential premises
Is it worth it to do the wiring in the house with your own hands? No, it's not worth it. Unless, of course, you are a professional electrician. This business is too dangerous and responsible, so the pros should deal with it. But even the pros are worth looking after - living in a "connected" apartment is all the same to you. Therefore, at least the basics of electrical conductive business should be known.

The first rule of the electrification of an apartment is that it must be carried out immediately and in its entirety. The principle “today we will do it in the living room, and after the salary - in the bedroom and hallway” is inappropriate here. If you change the wires in parts or simply rearrange the sockets and switches without changing the wires, you will get a large number of connections, extensions and twists, tightly hidden in the walls. Meanwhile, any not very high-quality connection is the first contender for a breakdown. In addition, aluminum wires do not like to be disturbed - when they are bent, microcracks appear, which will still show itself as the wire ages. As a result, pretty soon you will again have to open the walls and change the wiring.

The second rule is to think ahead. First you need to draw up a detailed plan for the location of switches, sockets, lamps, sconces, chandeliers. Decide where the washing machine, refrigerator, electric stove or flow heater will stand. All these are very powerful electrical appliances, they will have to be connected to separate - reinforced - lines, so it will not be easy to rearrange them afterwards.

The third rule - calculate consumption. Look at the passport data of electrical appliances for their power consumption and add up the indicators of those devices that will be powered from one line. Try to distribute them so that too much power does not hang on one wire - one line should not hold more than 4–5 kW.

The fourth rule is not to save. The worse small things turn out to be - sockets, switches, junction boxes, tubes for wires - the more dangerous it will be to live in an apartment. Of course, if you don't make mansions cooler than the Kremlin chambers, there is not much point in buying "designer" items at a clearly inflated price. The main thing in this business is reliability, so it is better to focus on the "middle class" gizmos - not Chinese consumer goods, but not gilded items "for the rich."

The most successful option is German and industrial (not handicraft) Turkish products. By the way, when choosing switches for chandeliers, pay attention to kits with built-in rheostats. This is such a plate, touching which increases or decreases the brightness of the light. On the one hand, this can create a greater variety of lighting options in the room (from intimate twilight to festive illumination), on the other hand, it will slightly reduce your electricity costs. Sockets, of course, buy "euro" - all modern technology is designed for them.

The fifth rule - it is better not to climb into the shield on your own. This is the business of professionals. Without a very serious knowledge of electricians, it is simply impossible to deal with all possible schemes for connecting "automatic machines" and an RCD (residual current device). Remember the main thing: you do not need to connect all devices to one protection. In the event of a current leakage or short circuit, only the line in which this happened, and not all electrical appliances in the house, should be turned off. Therefore, light, sockets, kitchen appliances, and a bathroom are usually isolated into separate branches with their own protection. It can also be divided into rooms, for example, so that when the lights turn off in the rooms, the corridor remains illuminated.

The sixth rule - wiring is done after redevelopment, but before plastering and painting. Wires from the shield in the corridor are introduced into the apartment and laid on the walls along pre-marked routes. The wires must be in tubes - smooth or corrugated. But you need to understand that it is very difficult to replace the wire in a corrugated tube later - most likely, you will have to open the walls. Junction boxes are installed in place to have easy access to the connections. The boxes are closed with plastic lids and then go under the wallpaper or paint, becoming almost invisible. If at some point you need access to the wires in the box, the wallpaper can be carefully cut and the paint replaced.

The seventh rule - think about the future. Make it as easy as possible to replace wires when they begin to age. The life of an aluminum wire is 20–30 years, a copper wire is longer, but the need for replacement may arise even earlier, for example, if the wiring is accidentally damaged.

The basic requirements for electrical installation of residential wiring are set out in the rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE) and other regulatory documents. All of them must be observed by electrical installation organizations when laying cables or replacing electrical wiring, as well as when installing electrical equipment in your apartment. It would be nice if every electrician knew these requirements or could control the process of performing electrical work. When starting work on the electrification of a residential building, it is necessary to take into account several basic rules:

Wiring in an apartment, cottage, office must be laid immediately in all rooms. Being guided by the thoughts “today in the bathroom and toilet, and then in the hall and bedroom” is the worst technical solution, since such an organization of electrical work can lead to an unreasonably large number of all kinds of connections in your electrical wiring. And all this will be hidden in the walls and under the ceiling. And the abundance of unnecessary connections in the conductors is the first candidate for the occurrence of a break, short circuit or fire, especially if the wiring is being replaced in an old housing stock with aluminum wires.

First you need to think, and then do the wiring. First, for each room, it is necessary to decide which consumers of electricity will be placed in it and, based on this, determine the places for installing sockets and switches. It is also important to take into account the operating mode of the connected electrical equipment, that is, a preliminary calculation of electricity consumption is necessary. To do this, add up the power consumption of all electrical equipment (indicated in the passport data) that you plan to power from the group line. This is required to calculate the load, cable cross-section and protection devices. It is imperative to provide for the possibility of connecting more powerful electrical equipment, that is, to take into account the prospect of developing the power supply system for the premises. It is very useful to have a design project that provides for the arrangement of furniture and interior items in order to place sockets, switches and other consumers of electricity, taking into account this information.

Don't skimp on cheap materials. The cheaper and worse the quality of the switches, sockets, junction boxes, cable and wire you purchased, the more dangerous it will be to live in this room in the future. It is not necessary to purchase "exclusive", this is the second extreme, we are talking about good products of the middle price range. We can recommend German manufacturers. Do not use electrical equipment of dubious manufacturers (China) in wiring.

In accordance with the PUE, the power supply of a house, apartment, office must be carried out from a 380/220V network with a TN-S or TN-С-S grounding system. This means that the power supply in the premises must be powered by a five-wire and three-wire network, that is, it is necessary to lay a cable with a protective conductor. All wire connections are carried out only in junction boxes or in power boards. All connections and branches of wires and cables must be available for inspection, repair and electrical measurements. Connections, branches and terminations of conductors of wires and cables must be made by crimping, welding, soldering, as well as using clamps.

You need to think ahead. The electrical wiring must be replaced, that is, the cable must be laid in pipes, corrugated hoses, boxes or in other ways, in order to be able to replace damaged cables and wires. It is allowed to carry out non-replaceable monolithic cable laying in the grooves of walls, partitions, ceilings, under plaster, in the floor preparation layer or in the voids of building structures, but such wiring is considered the worst technical solution, since cable replacement will be associated with wall chasing.

Bathrooms and showers are hazardous areas. In these rooms, it is required to carry out the electrical installation of potential equalization, that is, it is necessary to connect all metal parts (heating pipes, hot and cold water pipes, metal pallets and bathrooms, mixers and water heaters) to the additional potential equalization system, including third-party conductive parts that go beyond these premises. Also, all exposed conductive parts of stationary electrical installations accessible to the touch (washing machine, dishwasher, etc.), third-party conductive parts and zero protective conductors of all electrical equipment, including plug sockets, must be connected to the additional potential equalization system. Warm electric floors must be covered with a grounded metal mesh or a grounded metal sheath and connected to a potential equalization system.

It is better not to get into the apartment and floor switchboard on your own, this is the work of a specialist. You need to know that you should not connect all sockets and lighting fixtures to one group protection device. If a short circuit or current leakage occurs, then only the group line on which the accident occurred should be disconnected in the power panel, and not the entire power supply of the apartment should be de-energized. As protection devices for group socket and power lines, it is required to use a residual current device (RCD). The best technical solution is to install a combined device that combines an RCD and an overcurrent protection device (circuit breaker), such devices are called RCD-D with built-in overcurrent protection, or simply a differential automatic device. When installing protection devices in the power board, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of selectivity (multi-stage protection).

We hope that our advice will help you control all the stages of electrical work carried out in your apartment, house, office or country house.

Energy saving at home.

Unfortunately, in everyday life, the term energy saving often means theft of electricity. Given the amount of fines and criminal and administrative liability for such actions, it is much more effective to carry out a number of measures to reduce electricity consumption in your home.
Let's start studying this issue with the most energy-intensive equipment - electric heating. The use of electricity for the purpose of heating in itself is irrational, given its high cost. But, nevertheless, sometimes electricity is the only source of energy. Currently, there are many modern methods of heating that have clear advantages over traditional ones: long-wave heaters, underfloor heating, heat accumulators. The latter allow you to take advantage of the low "night" electricity tariff, because. it is during the action of this tariff that heat accumulates in heat accumulators.
In the daytime, they give off heat strictly in accordance with the set temperature. In general, in the case of electric heating, the installation of two-tariff accounting is simply mandatory. You can find detailed descriptions of these methods on the Internet.
Often in everyday life, in conjunction with central heating (because of its quality), oil radiators are used. Before using, take care to reduce heat loss in the apartment. If we consider the heat balance of the dwelling, it becomes clear that most of the heat energy of the heating system is used to block heat losses.

They look like this in a dwelling with central heating and water supply:
losses due to not insulated windows and doors - 40%;
losses through window panes - 15%;
losses through walls - 15%;
losses through ceilings and floors - 7%;
Obviously, the use of plastic windows will significantly reduce losses. Insulate ordinary windows in a timely manner.
Electric stoves are in second place in terms of energy consumption, their annual electricity consumption is 1200-1400 kW. Here are some rules for the efficient use of electricity: Use the burner at full power only for the time it takes to boil. Further, the power is reduced to the level necessary to maintain boiling (the temperature still does not rise above 100 degrees). Foods that require a long cooking time should be cooked on a small burner. The diameter of the cookware should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the burner, the bottom should have the greatest contact (preferably flat and even). Using cookware with a curved bottom can lead to energy waste up to 40-60%. Pots must be covered with a lid. When boiling and heating water, it is better to pour as much water as necessary for the upcoming tea drinking. Descale promptly. Using a pressure cooker saves a lot of energy and time.

Household appliances and electronics. Here are the main tips for these energy receivers: The refrigerator should be located in the coolest place in the kitchen away from the radiator and stove, preferably near the outer wall, but not close to it. Use an automatic washing machine at night (when installing a two-rate meter). Set your home computer to a power saving mode (turn off the monitor, enter sleep mode, turn off hard drives, etc.)
Lighting. Do not neglect natural light: light-colored curtains, light-colored wall and ceiling finishes, clean windows, and moderate planting on window sills will increase the illumination of your home. Rationally use three lighting systems: general, local and combined. General lighting fixtures are usually the most powerful fixtures in the room, their main task is to illuminate everything as evenly as possible. In one or more places of the room, local lighting should be provided, taking into account specific conditions. Such lighting requires special lamps installed in close proximity to a desk, armchair, dressing table, etc. Combined lamps due to the selective inclusion of lamps can perform the functions of general and local lighting. The most economical is the principle of zonal lighting, based on the use of general, combined or local lighting of individual functional areas. If you use directional lamps, table lamps, floor lamps, sconces to illuminate these zones of these zones, then the apartment will become cozier, and therefore more comfortable. For such zonal lighting, lamps 1.5-2 times less powerful than in pendant lamps are suitable. As a result, a room of 18-20 square meters. m is saved up to 200 kWh per year. Conventional incandescent lamps used in our homes spend the lion's share of energy for heating and not for lighting. Currently, there is a huge selection of more advanced light sources. But not all of them are cost-effective (because of their cost).

Light output of some light sources lx/W.
Incandescent lamp 12
Halogen lamp 22
Fluorescent lamp 55
High pressure mercury lamp 55
High pressure halogen lamp 80
High pressure sodium lamp 95
We would recommend compact fluorescent lamps as they are relatively inexpensive and efficient. Because they last about 8 times longer than incandescent bulbs and use less power for the same wattage. That allows you to save up to 1,500 rubles at current rates for an average apartment (2-3 rooms). for the service life. In some places (stairwells, vestibules, entrances), switches are useful, which automatically turn on and off, which are also convenient. Choose from a wide range of such devices based on your needs and financial capabilities. In the literature for radio amateurs you will find device diagrams that you can assemble yourself. As a result, I would like to note that the habit of saving electricity is a sign of a reasonable and modern consumer and not necessarily a poor one; in new homes, rich people use modern technologies more often than "ordinary" consumers. Energy-saving technologies are now available to everyone, use and get satisfaction not only from economic benefits, but also from helping overloaded, outdated energy networks in Russia.

First, consider the characteristics of various light sources. Artificial light sources used in everyday life can be divided into several types: incandescent lamps (traditional and halogen), fluorescent lamps, and LED systems.

Incandescent lamps are the most familiar and most common light source. The principle of operation is as follows: in a flask filled with an inert gas, a tungsten spiral is heated to a high temperature (2600-3000 ° C) by the action of an electric current, as a result of which light is emitted. Those. in fact, they are heat emitters, which should be taken into account. Since incandescent lamps emit a lot of heat, it is not recommended to use them to illuminate large areas.

Halogen incandescent lamps are similar in structure and principle of operation to traditional incandescent lamps. But the main difference is that the fill gas used in such products contains minor additions of halogens (bromine, chlorine, fluorine, iodine) or combinations thereof. Thanks to them, it is possible to avoid darkening of the flask. In addition, it is important to note that the bulbs of halogen lamps are made of refractory quartz glass, which is more resistant to high temperatures and chemical attack. This allows you to increase the temperature of the spiral and, accordingly, increase the luminous efficiency and lamp life by 1.5–2 times. In terms of power, halogen lamps are undoubtedly in the first place, they are also the most economical.

Fluorescent lamps are devices in which electrical energy is converted into optical radiation when current passes through gases (usually mercury is used in a vapor state). Under the influence of electric current in mercury vapor, ultraviolet radiation is invisible to the human eye. This radiation becomes visible due to a special substance - a phosphor, applied to the inner surface of the tube. The color characteristics of a particular lamp depend on the type of phosphor used. Fluorescent lamps can have a different shape and diameter, while the size of the bulb is in no way related to the power of the lamp.

LEDs are one of the most promising light sources today. LED systems have a number of advantages: they are very compact, which makes it possible to illuminate hard-to-reach places, are safe in operation, and have a fairly long service life. Because LEDs run on low voltage, they consume little electricity. At the same time, such devices convert almost all the energy into light, and not into heat. LEDs are not afraid of moisture. Therefore, it is ideal for the bathroom. The safety of LEDs also allows them to be used in areas accessible to children and pets, to illuminate plants or to illuminate decorative elements.

When choosing a lighting device, do not forget about the norms of illumination of the room. You can use the following calculation rules. When using incandescent lamps in lighting, 1 square meter should have an average of 25 W / m2. For halogen lamps -23 W/m2, for fluorescent lamps -6.5 W/m2. These average light standards are automatically increased by a factor of two to three if you need to light up your workspace. Processed

The modern world is hard to imagine without machines and mechanisms that work with electricity. The quality of its delivery is also improving. For example, aluminum conductors were replaced with copper ones, non-combustible insulation was invented. Production facilities began to be divided into zones according to the principle of fire safety. The idea is simple: a fire that has arisen in one zone cannot move to another. The need for qualified specialists who keep up with the times is growing at the same rate. What should an electrician know?

Who is an electrician?

A specialist who has received a special education and works in the field of electronics is called an electrician. That is, this is an employee who knows the basics of electricians, whose main occupation is the installation, repair and operation of electrical equipment. Repair and installation work can be carried out not only indoors, but also outdoors, including at height. In addition to basic skills, an electrician can always provide first aid to a victim of electric shock.

The main task of an electrician is to organize the uninterrupted operation of electrical networks. Both in production or residential premises, and on the streets or in production processes.

The main professional qualities of an electrician are accuracy, responsibility, vigilance, caution, attentiveness and concentration.

Professional responsibilities

This profession in our country is quite common, and job descriptions are formed quite clearly:

conducting electrical wiring or power cables;
connection of electrical equipment with preliminary calculation of cables;
drawing up a plan for the electrification of industrial or residential premises;
installation of new electrical networks, repair and dismantling of failed ones, etc.

The studied fundamentals of electrics enable a specialist to install control or protection devices, insulators, mark equipment installation points, troubleshoot short circuits, and lay cable channels. And also measure the resistance of insulating materials, carry out preparatory work before turning on the mechanisms for the first time, install and dismantle alarm or protection systems, connect wires, cables, couplings, etc.

Electrical Basics

The work of an electrician requires a large amount of knowledge. Elementary course: "Electrics for Beginners" provides an opportunity to study:

basic concepts and quantities used in electrics;
symbols used in electrical circuits;
materials and their electrical conductivity;
marking of cables, electrical circuits and wires;
ways and wires;
methods for obtaining contacts and other connections;
rules for the device and protection of electrical installations;
ways to connect generators and engines;
the order of protection against overloads of electrical circuits;
existing types of electrical wiring and methods of its installation;
basics of safety precautions when carrying out electrical installation work;
rules for first aid in case of electric shock.

So, what does a novice electrician need to know? The basics of electricity are the main base of the future electrician. But besides this, it is necessary to have a good command of the basics of applied mechanics, automation and electrical engineering.

Required level of knowledge

The basics of electrics are the bare minimum that an electrician needs to work. Here are a few categories that a modern electrician is required to have information about.

The direct appointment of a device or mechanism that needs repair.
Frequent problems with a particular device.
Rules for the operation of a non-working mechanism or device,
Fundamentals of safety in electrical work.

If there is a need to repair the wiring, the electrician must know and present in detail its circuit, as well as be able to diagnose the causes of failure.

Skills

Training as an electrician instills the necessary techniques in the work. A specialist learns to read circuit diagrams and wiring diagrams, to expect to work with measuring instruments, to independently assemble simple electrical circuits, to solder or twist the assembly of contact connections.

Main tool

The necessary equipment for the work of an electrician is divided into four categories:

hand tool;
power tool;
measuring instruments;
consumables and accessories.

A set of hand tools is individual for each electrician. But there is a necessary base. Having completed training as an electrician, a young specialist will be familiarized with how to work with pliers (nippers), a mounting or utility knife, a set of screwdrivers and wrenches, a hammer, a chisel, a construction tape measure, a stripper and an electric soldering iron.

If the production of electrical work requires more serious intervention, then you will definitely need a puncher with an adapter cartridge and a set of nozzles, a grinder for cutting steel corners for a grounding system or laying a strobe under cables. You will also need an electric drill, which, if necessary, can work as a screwdriver.

As follows from the course "Electricians for Beginners", measuring instruments today perform many functions and they are necessary in work. One of the main ones is a probe for the presence of a phase in the electrical network. It looks like a screwdriver, but the case is not durable, because the device has a different purpose. More information can be read from a universal multimeter. In addition to basic measurements, it is able to check the correctness of installed equipment or laid networks. make it possible to connect without interrupting the network and take measurements.

Auxiliary devices are not included in the list of mandatory, but greatly facilitate the work of a specialist. It can be a ladder, a carrier, an autonomous light source, markers, building pencils, levels, calipers, etc.

Electrical work is very different from finishing work. These works must be carried out strictly in accordance with the rules of electrical safety, so the best way to carry them out is to seek help from specialists with the necessary knowledge and experience. Such specialists use modern tools and technologies.

Switches, sockets, socket boxes are those electrical installation products that you simply cannot do without in the modern world, and which should be in every room. The electrical work also includes the installation of electrical panels and the supply cable.

Often, in order to satisfy all our needs, several switches and sockets are mounted in one room at once. In this case, so that the wires do not burn out and the wiring does not have to be changed again, the current passing through these wires should not exceed the allowable parameters. And this means that it is necessary to clearly know the cross section of the cable.

Usually, when wiring, wiring is hidden (open is done only in cases where it is impossible otherwise). When conducting hidden wiring, certain rules must be observed. In the wall into which the cable is mounted, a channel for it is pre-strobe, after installation, the strobes are covered with putty or plaster. At the output, it is desirable to make the ends of the wires long so that if the cable breaks, you have the end of the wire.

A socket must be placed at the outlet of the wire from the wall. This applies not only to sockets, but also to switches. For sockets, it is especially important to better fix in the wall so that the socket does not fall out of the wall due to frequent pulling of the cord.

Open wiring is now done mainly only in wooden houses, since hidden wiring is quite difficult to carry out in houses of this type. In this case, overhead wiring accessories for outdoor installation are used, they are attached to the wall surface. Now the stores offer a large selection of sockets and switches at affordable prices from leading manufacturers of well-established.

The Electromontazh-ST company will quickly, efficiently and with a guarantee perform all electrical work in your apartment.

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