We make a bath with our own hands. How to make a sauna in a house with your own hands - a detailed conversation

Rest without a bath is not a rest. Neither summer shower nor bathing can replace the bathhouse in a suburban area. Of course, if the budget is very limited, you should not aim at building a two-story bath complex with a swimming pool. But it is possible to build a small cozy bathhouse on a suburban area with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how a budget bath is built with our own hands, we will reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, we will tell you how to prevent oversight and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. A wooden bathhouse can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Wood is a classic material for building baths. Wood is prized for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths warm up quickly, and essential resins released into the air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from ideal for construction. In order for the walls of the bath to be even, you need to choose a high-quality bar or log. Don't forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the frame will "lead".

It is important to be able to work with an ax and a saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut down locks for connecting corners, external and internal walls, floors. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this is associated with additional costs and is not relevant for the construction of a budget bath. It is best to build at least two people, because alone it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns, especially the upper ones.

Hardwood, such as linden, is best suited for building a bath. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area permit, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight tape option (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, for insulation and decoration. If the bath will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, battens for lathing, steam and wind insulation, decorative decorative material for the bath's facade. Wood, if it is properly sanded and coated with a protective impregnation, varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into the landscape design of private land plots.

In a budget bath, you can save on the organization of a full-fledged sewerage and water supply system. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made pouring, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant experience of bathing procedures.

What can you not save on? Wood is a highly flammable material. It is worth a little oversight, not closing the blower door, as a falling-out red-hot coal will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible in case of neglect of fire safety rules when installing the furnace and therefore, in no case should you save on:

fire-retardant impregnation;
fire-fighting cutting;
materials for insulating the floor in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, and ugly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of nodes of their strength.

It is very important to properly organize ventilation in wooden baths. Even if the bath is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to enjoy the musty and mildew scent, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now more specifically about the prices of timber, in order to roughly calculate the costs of construction.

Lumber	Breed	Section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Round timber	Larch	180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
Carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

* The average cost of building materials is actual for 2017.

Based on the cost of new sawn timber, a budget bath will definitely not work. The way out of the situation is to buy a used timber at a price of 1000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also come in handy if used correctly.

Bricks and Blocks

A block or brick bath will undoubtedly turn out to be more durable than a wooden one. And the suddenly flared fire is not terrible for the stone walls. To your taste and discretion, you can build a bath of any size and shape, as long as funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a large assortment of products of various shapes, shades, textures. For example, by combining bricks of two different shades when building walls, you can build a bathhouse that looks very neat and aesthetically pleasing.

On a note! In a brick bath, the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmittance. But in this case, it is important to take care of the arrangement of effective ventilation.

A brick bath warms up longer than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. Brick walls are in need of finishing, and this adds cost items to the overall estimate. For laying bricks, a cement-sand mortar is used, which can be bought ready-made and simply diluted with water in the right proportions, or you can prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bathhouse from a private M100 brick?

Building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 rub. for 1 piece.
	Has the same dimensions as a private. It is used for laying those walls that are directly heated. For example, fireclay bricks are used to lay out a base for a furnace and a protective screen.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for the preparation of masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of the sand. Crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. over 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. over 50 kg

For an example of calculating the cost of masonry, take a single brick and laying in one brick (the wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the data in the table, we get:

taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry, 102 bricks are needed;
102 bricks x 6.20 rubles. = 632.4 rubles.

Brick prices

Usually brick is purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible marriage. And to the cost of masonry 1 square meter of the wall, you need to add the cost of the mortar. Do not forget that you may need a concrete mixer, jointing for joints, a set of mason's tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is their high construction speed. The disadvantages are similar to those of bricks.

Blocks are laid with reinforcement of rows, fixation is carried out with special glue or cement-sand mortar.

For the construction of a bath, blocks with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions, blocks of lesser thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 piece.

The number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

with a wall thickness of 20 cm, there will be 5.5 blocks in one square meter of the wall (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
with a wall thickness of 30 cm, in one square meter of the wall there will be 8.33 blocks (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bath, it is preferable to use not bricks, but blocks of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm.It is necessary to take into account the cost of glue for blocks (from 155 rubles per 30 kg, consumption is about 1.2- 1.4 kg per 1 sq. M of masonry) and do not forget that the blocks are purchased with a margin.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bath. You can always buy, for example, a second-hand brick for a penny, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bathhouse, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bath from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided that the reinforcement is done correctly, the walls will not crack. Even during the construction of a budget bath, you should not neglect the safety margin of the walls, so as not to start overhauling the bath in the next few years.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of a bath from aerated concrete with a brick base

We will consider the process of building a bath with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to equip three main premises: a rest room or dressing room, shower room, steam room. If the free area on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bathhouse, the dimensions can be reduced to 4x4 m, and the internal space can be divided into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower and other amenities.

So, let's begin. Inspect your land, prepare a site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and tamp the area.

In advance, you need to prepare a bath project with a masonry order. According to the drawings, it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and carry out construction.

Make markings on the ground, dig trenches, fill in the shallow strip foundation. Don't forget about the air. You can read more about the filling technology.

It is important, already in the process of pouring, to especially carefully level the upper surface of the foundation. If, nevertheless, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with a cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We put a waterproofing material on the foundation strip, for example, strips of roofing material.

Roofing material prices

roofing felt

Step 2. We mix the cement-sand mortar for brickwork. To prepare the solution, we use the proportions:

cement M400 - 1 bucket;
sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
dishwashing liquid or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water and detergent to a concrete mixer or mortar container, then add cement and sand, with constant stirring. The consistency of the finished solution will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, non-spreading mark will remain. Mixing should be carried out for 3 to 5 minutes.

We transfer the finished solution into buckets and transport it to the construction site.

Step 3. We start laying a brick base. We will carry out the work from the corners of the bath.

Apply the mortar with a trowel to the brick. We lay the brick at the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). Place the bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, tap the brick with the handle of the trowel. We repeat the procedure at the next corner of the bath foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we pull the mooring thread, additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. We put the second brick at each of the corners perpendicular to the first one.

We carry out the laying of the basement "in one and a half bricks". With standard brick sizes, the total width of the basement will be 38 cm. This width is the sum of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is a connecting mortar joint.

Spoon out the first outer row. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing into the mortar and slightly moving back and forth. We leave a gap between the adjacent bricks, into which we add the mortar with a trowel. Remove excess mortar immediately with a trowel. We knock out the bricks so that they are all in a single plane (the reference point is a stretched thread-mooring). As a result, if you look at the base from the "street" side, you will see a row laid "in half a brick".

We lay the inner row with a jab towards the future premises of the bath. Further, the laying is carried out according to the ordering scheme, observing the dressing of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and proceed to the arrangement of the floor overlap.

Step 4... To equip the floor overlap, you need to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the "sockets" of the base to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior room, add 20 cm, we get the length of the beams. The section of the beams can be selected using the table.

* The section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on the edge. Maximum floor load 400 kg / m 3.

We cut the roofing material into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing material, fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on the ends, observing an equal distance between them.

We continue to carry out the brickwork.

We lay out two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay the brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single ordinary brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints in height will be 150 mm, the upper surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Fourth row masonry

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the solution. The masonry will turn out to be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5. The basement has been completed, we proceed to laying the walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing material on the brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bath.

We start work again from the corners of the bath. Knead the solution, spread the layer on top of the roofing material.

We level the solution with a notched trowel. Install the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the base. The hardest part is to bring both blocks to zero. We carry out the check with a hydro level, a bubble level, if there is a laser level, it is better to use it.

Haste is inappropriate here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We spread the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow installing the whole block, it is necessary to cut with a hacksaw with fine teeth. After cutting from the block, we sweep the dust with a brush.

Laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6. We pass to the reinforcement of the first row of blocks.

Prepare a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

* Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement we use corrugated rods of class A3. The diameter of the bars is 8 mm. It is not advisable to take reinforcement of greater thickness.

Using a manual wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw two parallel straight lines along a ruler on the surface of the blocks in advance with a pencil. At the corners of the bath and at the junction of the inner partitions with the outer walls, the grooves are rounded, parallel.

We clean the surface of the strobe from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in the grooves. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Pay attention that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The connection of rods is possible at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We take out the reinforcement from the grooves, put it on the surface of the blocks.

We knead the glue for aerated concrete (the approximate cost for 25 kg is 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then pour the dry mixture from the bag. We mix the glue with a drill with a mixer nozzle at low speed (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not flow.

We fill the grooves with glue. We spread the glue with a spatula. We embed the reinforcement in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks turns out to be even, without grooves or bumps.

Step 7. We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. We proceed to applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a bandage similar to that of half-brick masonry. The offset of the upper block relative to the lower one should be between 15 cm and ½ the block length.

It is most convenient to apply the glue with a bucket (trowel). The working width of the trowel must match the width of the block. This will allow the adhesive to be applied quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use home-made devices, for example, as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched trowels or special buckets that reduces the consumption of glue.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal. If necessary, we grind the surfaces of the blocks.

For the convenience of tying blocks, you can start laying from half of the block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. We brush away the dust. Apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correctness of the installation of the blocks in two planes - in the vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bath is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement М600

Step 8. We pass to the laying of the lintels, their reinforcement.

There must be reinforced lintels above the window and doorway. The easiest way is to use U-boxes, but this comes with additional costs.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in conventional gas blocks. To do this, make two cuts with a hacksaw across the width of the groove on the block, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

For stacking blocks, we make formwork from boards. Blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with props, fix the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The armopoyas should protrude at least 15 cm beyond the window and door opening. We install the blocks on the formwork. We fasten the ends of the blocks with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

We start knitting an armored belt. For the bundle, we use plastic clamps (ties). Armopoyas consists of four long parallel rods, and every 0.5 m - vertical sections of reinforcement. In section, the armopoyas should form a square.

Important! You cannot lay the armopoyas directly on aerated concrete. Plastic retainers must be used. Without clamps, the reinforcement cage will not take the correct position and will not be filled with concrete mixture on all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing it with a bar or wooden lath. We level the surface as carefully as possible.

Now you need to make a technical pause and wait for the solution to set. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9. So, the concrete in the lintels has frozen, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is not enough, lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the ground floor and at the same time perform the function of an armored belt.

We make the armopoyas on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armopoyas will be poured along the entire perimeter of the outer and inner walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but we cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

We put the whole row of prepared blocks on the glue.
We install expanded polystyrene plates. We cut them carefully, along a ruler, so that the edges are even.
We knit a reinforced frame.
We put the clamps, put the frame inside the blocks.

Pour concrete.
Align the surface.
We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10. The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. We turn to the arrangement of the interfloor overlap. It will be wooden. We put antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends on an armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the basement was being built.

But since now we are putting not a brick, but an aerated block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select with a chisel and hammer even rectangular niches in the blocks. We lay blocks in the standard way, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our example of construction, the bath will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams are carried out beyond the walls of the bath.

Step 11. We lay the rough floor. We lay the edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, we take the hardware with a length of 8 cm.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are inserted, decorative finishing will be done, foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, lining or a simple hardwood board will be nailed.

Step 12. Usually a one-story bath is enough for the owners for a comfortable pastime. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa, a table, equipping the rest room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax, cool down, going out onto the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase ventilation efficiency and reduce the cost of building materials.

The roof has a complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with a gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, perpendicularly located roof slopes are clearly visible on both sides.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to the construction of a simple shed or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

installation of vertical racks from a bar;
installation of horizontal piping;
flooring of floor beams on top of the strapping;
installation of extreme trusses along the gables;
Floor beams and rafters
installation of intermediate roof trusses;
masonry of gables from blocks;
installation of vapor barrier from the side of the room;
filing the ceiling, slopes from the inside with a board;
laying of mineral wool in two layers;
installation of a windscreen over insulation;
installation of counter-lattice for metal tiles;
assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation of a windproof membrane and counter-lattice on the canopy slopes;
installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

You can watch the video about how a roof of a complex configuration is being erected.

Gas block prices

gas blocks

Video - Roof construction

Video - Erection of gables

Video - Rafters, armopoyas

Video - Completing the installation of rafters, laying aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter grill for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling of the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bath

Step 1... We fasten the Mauerlat on top of the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (wood grouses).

We drill holes in the boards, and then in the blocks. We hammer in the dowels. We lay a layer of roofing material as waterproofing. We put the Mauerlat board, screw in the screws (capercaillie).

Step 2... We install vertical posts and a horizontal strapping bar. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bathhouse - 30 cm. The slope of the roof will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! To prevent the racks from loosening from gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3. We lay the rafters (we put straight boards on the edge and fasten with perforated corners to the horizontal beams of the front and rear frames).

Step 4. We mount counter-lattice boards perpendicular to the rafters.

Step 5. We fasten the sheets of corrugated board. Cut off the counter-lattices sticking out at the edges of the board.

Step 6. We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install posts from a bar and one additional jib in order to attach the sheathing in the future.

Step 7. We hem the rough ceiling.

Step 8. We sheathe the frame with plywood. We treat plywood sheets with protective impregnation.

Step 9. Foam the gaps between the blocks and the plywood.

Step 10. If the decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we attach the protective canopies made of tin.

Plaster can be used as a decorative finish on the facade of the bath. It is necessary to choose a mixture for aerated concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all moisture from the plaster, the decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it from the remnants of glue with a float, grind off irregularities, if any. After sanding, the walls should be primed with Aerated Concrete-Contact. The plaster mortar is applied with a wide trowel over the fiberglass mesh fixed with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent agent.

The bathhouse, built in Russian traditions, is considered an ideal place for cleansing the soul and body. By visiting it regularly, you can maintain health, maintain youth and get real pleasure. It is not surprising that many decide to build a Russian-style bathhouse with their own hands.

Features of the Russian bath

The Russian bath, which was built by our ancestors, includes two sections: a dressing room and a steam room. The largest size of this room is 2.3x4 m, the smallest is 5x6 m. Baths with such dimensions are popular again.

1 - dressing room; 2 - steam room and washing room; 3 - shelves; 4 - oven

The device of a primordially Russian bath implies:

creation of an unburied columnar foundation based on boulders, devoid of a base;
assembly of a log house from selected wild logs, that is, material that has not been subjected to any processing, except for removing the bark and drying;
construction without the use of nails;
plugging cracks with moss and tow;
installation of a flat ceiling;
insulation of floor and ceiling coverings with moss and peat;
waterproofing the structure with resin and boot pitch;
making a sod or shingle roof;
creating a furnace from bricks.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

When composing a sauna project, one should not forget that several people will use the steam room and the washing room at once. Therefore, the area and dimensions of the bath should be determined without making serious mistakes.

The second version of the bath differs in the arrangement of the shower

To make it convenient for each user to be in the bath room, he needs to allocate at least 1.8 m² in the dressing room and 1.5 m² in the steam room. The average indicator of the total usable area of a bathhouse for a family is 10 m². At the same time, most of the space should be in the dressing room, and less in the steam room and washing department.

In order for people of any height to wash in Russian, the ceiling should be erected at a height of 2.4 meters.

When determining the height of the ceiling, take into account that soon the building will sit down

At the planning stage of the construction, it is necessary to reflect in the drawing the area for arranging the vestibule. This room may be needed as a place to block the path of cold air from the street.

For the vestibule, 2.32 sq. m

Adherents of tradition are recommended to build a bathhouse from high-quality coniferous wood. This material is not fragile, and most importantly, it serves for a long time. And the needles are also environmentally friendly and have low thermal conductivity, that is, they do not release heat and at the same time interfere with air exchange. The unique property of this tree is considered resistance to various manifestations of the climate.

Such a wooden building should stand on a solid foundation.

For construction, you can take one of two types of coniferous wood:

rounded round logs;
solid bars.

Experienced builders advise to build a bathhouse from beams, since this material is cheaper, and it is much easier to build walls from it. In addition, a timber structure does well without a bulky foundation.

The timber structure looks simple, but it is easy to assemble

If you opt for rounded logs, you can be severely disappointed: the log structure settles for a long time, which is why it will not be possible to put it into operation earlier than a year and a half after construction. Unlike a log bath, a log structure can be safely used six months after the completion of construction work.

When buying beams, you should use a tape measure to check the material for compliance with the specified dimensions, and then make sure that the building materials are of good quality. To do this, you need to do the following:

List of materials and tools

To build a Russian bath, you need to stock up not only with beams and bricks, but also:

To carry out construction tasks, you should arm yourself:

DIY step-by-step construction of an object

Construction takes place in stages:

along the perimeter of the future structure and under its load-bearing internal walls, pits are created to form a strip foundation;
sand is poured on the bottom of the trench, the finished "pillow" is pressed and poured with water;
the pits are filled with reinforcing rods and liquid concrete, the layer of which is smoothed with cement mortar;
Before pouring concrete from the boards, formwork is built
concrete is used to form the base for a brick oven;
several layers of waterproofing material processed with bitumen mastic are placed on the platform;
collect the log house, connecting the beams according to the method "at the corners in the paw, and the ends in half a tree without a remainder", laying a heater between them and through each row setting the dowels at a distance of 20 cm from the edge;
The corners are connected in 4 steps, and the ends in 3 steps
prepare a platform for the floor, that is, a 10 cm layer of sand is poured, pressed, and then covered with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
crushed stone is covered with roofing material canvases with adjoining edges for several centimeters;
cement is placed on the roofing material, creating a screed with a slope, thereby equipping the waste water flow towards the sewer pipe built into the ground and leading to a separately dug hole;
a facing material is glued onto the hardened cement screed, on top of which a wooden crate is placed;
Wooden battens on the floor keep your feet from touching the cold floor
floor beams are attached to the upper bars of the walls in a horizontal position;
the installed beams are connected with iron brackets to the rafters - with thick beams;
fasten the rafter legs to each other using ridge bars;
the rafters are covered with a roll-up waterproofing sheet and wooden flooring - the basis for the roofing material;
create a ceiling, that is, non-load-bearing walls are laid out boards every 2.5 meters;
a vapor barrier film is laid on top of the ceiling slabs and heat-insulating material is laid.

Finishing

Finishing work is started after the structure has shrunk. First of all, all surfaces inside the bath are covered with an antiseptic compound.

Interior decoration implies the performance of such tasks as:

installation of the lathing directly on the walls and ceiling;
laying insulation and vapor barrier material in the gaps of the crate;
flooring lining or other facing material.

Lining is laid on the ceiling and wall

If the most popular building raw materials for interior decoration of a bath is only lining, then a lot of materials are in demand for facing the outer walls of a building:

vinyl or metal siding;
plastic lining;
block house imitating the view of a log house;
edged or unedged boards at a low price.

The material extends the life of the building

Finding stones for the bath room

It is customary to use igneous rocks in the steam room. Formed during a volcanic eruption, they are resistant to extreme heat. Igneous rocks that have a positive effect on the energy forces of a person include:

polished or chipped jadeite, the main feature of which is beauty;
talc chloride, capable of absorbing moisture and evaporating it to create the desired steam in the bath;
basalt that can withstand high temperatures.

In addition to its benefits, this stone provides aesthetic pleasure.

Metamorphic rocks can be placed on the stove, which tend to normalize blood composition and improve well-being. We are talking about such stones as:

white quartz, called hot ice, and when it cools sharply, it releases ozone;
crimson quartzite, the second name of which is the royal stone.

Such a stone is ideally combined with brickwork.

To create steam in the bath, you can use full-crystalline rocks, for example:

dunite;
serpentinite.

These stones are able to regenerate cells of the nervous system, increase immune strength and have a beneficial effect on the functioning of the thyroid gland.

The length of such a stone is about 20 cm

If you want to move away from traditions, then it is better to use cast iron stones - balls produced by industry as steam generators in the bath. They instantly heat up the room and keep warm for long hours. True, cast iron stones are subject to rusting after a short service life and carry no properties useful to humans.

Sedimentary and siliceous rocks should definitely not be put on the furnace. Their structure is porous, which means that, when they cool down sharply, they become covered with cracks and small particles scatter in a zone of one meter.

Exploitation

The main requirement for using a bath concerns the creation of the desired temperature. In a steam room, this physical value should be within 55–77 degrees. The temperature indicator is selected individually, that is, it depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. It is customary to heat the washing room to 40 °, and the rest room to 20 °.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time and properly, you need to use it according to the rules:

put in the firebox exclusively any dry fuel, except for firewood from coniferous wood;
keep the door of the combustion chamber closed, thereby avoiding the escape of hot sparks;
do not allow the chimney to glow until it becomes red;
do not touch hot surfaces, including the walls of the water heating tank;
monitor the cleanliness of the bath rooms;
ventilate the sauna sectors after each firebox for four hours;
try not to splash water on glass surfaces in the room (on windows and doors);
clean and inspect the chimney for holes at least once a quarter.

The owner of the bath will have to take good care of the wooden surfaces. The elements inside the bath, made of wood, are supposed to be coated twice a year with special means to protect against fungi and decay. External treatment of the wooden walls of the building is recommended to be carried out after two years of operation. To do this, it is better to use antiseptics, which include wax.

Wood deteriorates over time and therefore needs careful maintenance

In order for a Russian bathhouse to produce the required amount of heat, one must be able to regulate the traction force. To do this, open the door of the ash storage chamber more or less. Excessive thrust will cause the furnace to heat up too much, and this will bring the time of equipment failure closer. If the force forcing air to enter the firebox is normalized, then the stones in the bath heat up to a standard temperature.

During the heating of the stove, the operation of the chimney should be monitored. The consumption of firewood will be reduced to a minimum, and the efficiency of heat supply will be increased, just not completely covering the chimney gate. But this is allowed to be done only after the absolute closure of the ash chamber.

Video: building a bath from scratch

You can get real joy from the construction of a Russian bath. It is clear that this work is impossible without skills and labor, but the result is a source of pride. This feeling is even stronger if the object was built on their own.

Almost every owner of a land plot, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, the bath is not just a washing room, but also an important element of a summer cottage. Turnkey construction of a bath can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you can choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the models of boilers and find the best option for a bath for your summer cottage.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a project for a bath. To do this, it is not necessary to contact an architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
Consider what size bath will work best for your family. What premises will be located inside the bath. What materials to make the foundation, walls and roof from, do not forget also about finishing the bath. An important point in the design is the placement of the boiler and the way it is fired.
Below you can familiarize yourself with the popular bath projects:

- The bath project is 4x4 meters in size.

- Baths project - 4x6 meters.

- Baths project - 5x6 meters.

- Baths project - 6x3 meters.

Baths project - 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the dimensions and materials for the bath, you need to make an estimate of the costs.

Foundation

For the construction of a bath, several types of foundations are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, foundations of the following types are made:

Slab foundation.
Column foundation for light walls.
Pile foundation.
Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation, reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a strip reinforced foundation for a bath, you will need:

Cement.
Sand.
Gravel.
Armature.
Formwork.
Roofing material.
Wire.
Shovels.
Concrete mixer.
Harness.
Stakes.
Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure, and others).

In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trench for the future foundation. For marking, use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is made based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bathhouse made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. Having installed the markup, do the following:

Guided by the markings, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
Cover the bottom of the trenches with tar paper for waterproofing.
Backfill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
Place the formwork around the edges of the trench.
Make a frame reinforcing the foundation from reinforcement rods connected by wire.
Place the reinforcement cage in the formwork.
Using a concrete mixer, make a cement slurry in the proportion of one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
Pour cement into the formwork, taking care not to allow air voids.
After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

The following materials are used for the construction of walls:

Wooden bar.
Logs.
Boards.
Brick.
Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete and so on).

Since the construction of a bathhouse from logs or bricks is already widely described on the Internet, let's consider the option of building a frame bath from a bar of 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. Make the bottom harness, for this take bars with a section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them together with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by cutting out spikes, grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When making the strapping, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
2. Install vertical racks of 5x10 cm timber. The distance between the racks is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and door openings and install the racks framing them.
3. In the process of work, fix the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
4. Make the top harness by attaching it to the ends of the uprights.
5. When making the final fastening of the upper harness, carefully monitor the position of the uprights, checking their evenness with a level.
6. Be sure to reinforce all corner joints with diagonal posts, this will help prevent the frame from skewing.
7. Make a ceiling batten.
8. After making the frame, make the outer sheathing of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want the appearance of gaps between the boards, then make sheathing - "overlap", laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles siding wall decoration.

After sheathing the bath from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Foam or rock wool sheets are installed along the vertical posts of the frame.
On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to the vertical posts using thin slats.
After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath with clapboard or slats.
Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the outside of the ceiling with plywood sheets.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be performed after the installation of the roof.

Roof

There are three types of roof for a bath:

Shed.
Gable.
Difficult - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually, the first two options are used for a bath. Let's consider an option for a gable roof covered with metal tiles:

Roof manufacturing begins with installation - Mauerlat. In the case of frame walls, the upper outline plays the role of the Mauerlat.

Place the uprights on the bed.
Connect the struts with purlins and braces.
Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the Mauerlat, girder and connecting the upper ends together. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
Install sheets of metal tiles.
Sheathe the gables with wooden battens or sheet metal.

For a clearer acquaintance with the roof attachment, a picture is shown:

All sizes of roof elements are shown in the list:

Please note that the less you tilt the roof, the more snow load will fall on it in winter. Also, a small slope of the roof can lead to poor water drainage and leaks.

Floors

Floor construction depends on the type of room. The common wood floors are made in the break room. In the washroom and steam room, the floors are made of two levels:

The first level is made of concrete and has a slope towards the drain hole.
The second level is a finished floor of planks with gaps for water drainage.

If you want to make a floor from porcelain stoneware or tiles, then they are simply laid on the first level with a slope towards the drain hole.

In order to make a concrete floor and a drain in the bath, you need:

In the center of the steam room and the washing room, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. The pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewage system.
Lay a layer of waterproofing material.
Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of the rooms.
Make a grout and fill the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain pipe.
Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the drain.

In the second stage, wooden floors are made:

Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. Make the distance between the lags 30-40 centimeters. As a lag, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm. Or 4x6 cm.
Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm on the logs.
In rooms where water is supposed to drain, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget to treat all parts with wood impregnation before starting the installation of wooden floors. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be higher, or at the level of the upper edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of a boiler for a bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced gas or electricity colas, they can be purchased from specialized firms.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, for fire safety purposes, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. The walls are at the height of the boiler, covered with iron sheets. A good solution would be to overlay the boiler with a brick, there you will reduce its cooling time and protect the walls from fire.

When arranging a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the chimney is in contact with the ceiling. The chimney opening should be insulated with refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this area is prone to leakage, so you should carefully cover it up. Below are the options for boilers for a bath:

- Homemade boiler made of metal sheets.

- Gas boiler.

- Electric boiler.

Solid fuel boiler.

Bath arrangement

After the bath is built, you need to equip it:

- Bring all communications on the site to the bath - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

- Place a sink, shower cubicle, light sources, and furniture for rest inside.

- Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

Buy wooden tubs, buckets, ladles and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests, take a steam bath in your personal bath!

Instructions for assembling a mini-bath for a summer residence without a foundation, you can also watch in the video:

Options for beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and designs for the bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we present photos of the most unusual baths:

Mobile bathhouse made of "lining", built on a car trailer.

Bathhouse in a huge wine barrel.

Bath from plastic bottles.

Bathhouse dugout, built right in the ground.

Bath, arranged in an iron container.

Forest sauna made of untreated logs.

A beautiful bathhouse from a gun carriage.

Bath from not edged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that the heating of the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bathhouse from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the wiring device, since the rooms inside the bath have high air humidity and the risk of a short circuit due to condensation is very high.

We hope that reading our article will push you to build a bath yourself!

To equip your own steam room, it is not at all necessary to erect a separate building. A small sauna can be done right in the house or apartment. At its core, a typical home sauna is a wooden cabin with improved steam and heat insulation performance. The steam room can have a different configuration, however, the order of erection of the structure and its arrangement remains the same. At the same time, you can handle all the related activities with your own hands.

The design of a typical home sauna includes the following basic elements:

Sauna area at home

Before starting any construction activities, you need to plan everything thoroughly and, first of all, choose a place for arranging a sauna at home.

The best option is a bathroom, if, of course, its size allows you to place a cabin. The bathroom already has running water, sewerage, ventilation and, as a rule, a tiled floor.

In general, almost any place is suitable for the construction of a home sauna. The main thing is that the room has the opportunity to equip additional ventilation.

Each visitor to the steam room must be allocated at least 1 m2 of free space. Consider this point when choosing a place to place a sauna at home.

Home Sauna Building Guide

Assembling the finished infrared sauna

Setting up a sauna at home is a relatively simple, but extremely important undertaking. Follow each step of the guide step by step and very soon you will be able to enjoy the warmth of your own steam room.

The first step is floor

Traditional plank flooring is not the best solution for a home sauna. If you still prefer wood, do not, under any circumstances, cover it with paints and varnishes.

For a sauna floor at home, a warm floor with a finished tile is best suited. To install the floor, it is enough to get rid of the old floor covering (if any) at the place where the sauna cabin is being erected, lay the elements of the warm floor, fill in the screed, let it dry and lay the tiles to your taste.

There are no special requirements for floor tiles. All floor care comes down to regular cleaning and disinfection.

Second step - vertical wireframe

Proceed with the structure of the frame. Before starting to install the slats, it is necessary to vaporize the walls. If the walls of a house or apartment are made of bricks, lay glassine on them. In the case of walls made of other materials, glassine can be omitted.

Glassine will act as a vapor barrier material. Instead, you can use bitumen paper - the properties of the materials are similar.

The vapor barrier is attached to the wall with an overlap of 15-20 cm and is fixed with rails and nails or a construction stapler and staples.

After installing the vapor barrier, proceed with the construction of a wooden frame from bars. It is most convenient to use a timber with a section of 5x5 cm. Fasten it to the floor and walls. The number of uprights depends on the size of your future bath. Racks must be present in the corners of the future cab. Choose the step between the supports according to the width of the insulation. It is better that the distance between the bars is a couple of centimeters less than the width of the heat-insulating plates - this way the insulation will fit as tightly as possible.

Fit the ceiling frame. To do this, it is enough to fix the crossbars along the top of the vertical posts with a step according to the size of the heat-insulating material.

At the same stage, prepare holes in the frame for mounting ventilation and power supply elements. Lay the so-called. dry pipe. It needs to be taken inside the future cabin along its perimeter.

Also, pipes can be laid not inside the sauna, but above its ceiling. Typically, the height of the cabin ceiling does not exceed 210 cm, so there will be enough space for wires and pipes even in a simple apartment.

It is strongly recommended to bring 3-4 pipes inside the sauna with simple sprinklers and water in case of fire. Also place a fire damper inside the ventilation duct. It will not allow hot air from the steam room to go into the rest of the house or apartment.

Warming

The third step is insulation

Place the insulation in the cells of the vertical frame. For thermal insulation of a home sauna, it is most convenient to use basalt-based mineral wool. This material is characterized by high operational and thermal insulation properties.

Fourth step - aluminum foil

Thanks to the special foil, the internal properties of the sauna will be significantly improved. The foil will keep as much of the heat in the room as possible. The sauna will warm up faster and retain the generated heat for longer.

Fasten the foil to the frame with the mirror side inside the steam room. It is better to insulate the ceiling a little later, after arranging ventilation. Use aluminized tape or simple pushpins to fix the material.

Fifth step - horizontal crate

Attach horizontal bars with a cross section of 3x4 cm in increments of about 40 cm to the vertical posts. These bars must be set in strict accordance with the building level.

At the same stage, install transverse frames made of 3x6 cm timber for further installation of benches. Thanks to the cross bars, the weight of the benches will be transferred to the sauna frame and not to the lining.

Sixth step - sheathing

For cladding the ceiling and walls of a home sauna, it is best to use clapboard. Before starting the finishing work, install a supply ventilation valve in the ceiling above the location of the sauna heater. Attach the previously mentioned foil to the ceiling, leaving the ventilation open.

If you are building a suspended ceiling, then first you need to fix the sheathing, and only after that lay the insulation.

Most often, linden, alder and pine lining is used for arranging home saunas. Linden wood has a wonderful smell and attractive appearance. Among the additional advantages of the material, it is necessary to note its healing properties and beneficial effects on the human body.

Alder has long been used for the construction and decoration of various wooden structures. It has low thermal conductivity and a wide variety of shades. Alder is pleasant to the touch and does not burn the skin. Among the disadvantages of alder, it is necessary to highlight softness, as well as a tendency to deformation, damage and dirt.

Pine is traditionally used for cladding saunas all over the world. Wood smells good and has a beneficial effect on human health.

In general, when choosing a cladding material, be guided by your preferences, available budget and features of your specific situation.

Seventh step - benches and a door

The optimum ceiling height in a conventional home sauna is up to 210 cm. "Pipe effect", due to which draft increases and drafts appear.

Install the upper benches as high as possible - about 100-110 cm from the ceiling. Place the lower bench at a sauna ceiling height of 210 cm at a height of 65 cm.For more convenience, place a step under the lower bench at a height of about 25 cm.

The door, as already noted, is best installed glass. With such a door, visitors to the steam room will feel more comfortable in a closed room. It is desirable that the glass is tinted.

Do not install any "serious" latches or locks on the door. The maximum allowed is simple magnetic or roller latches.

Eighth step - equipment

Finally, install the sauna heater and decorative fittings. It is better not to build a wood-burning stove, especially when it comes to a sauna in an apartment - such a unit will create very high floor loads.

There will be no problems with the installation of the electric heater. The device comes with special mounting screws. You just have to fix the heater on the wall, stepping back about 20 cm from the floor surface. Build a small fence around the stove with scraps of wood. The fence can be of any shape. The main requirement is that the wood should be no closer than 50 mm to the heating element and not rise more than 50 mm above the heating elements.

Install an outlet, switch and lights. Route the wiring through a metal sleeve.

Sand the benches and wash them thoroughly with clean water and a damp sponge.

Ninth step - stones

Place stones between heating elements with minimal gaps. Whenever possible, use round, smooth elements without defects. Place large stones at the bottom, small ones on top.

Wash the stones thoroughly before placing them on the heater. Re-wash the stones every 3-6 months and check their integrity. Remove damaged elements and replace them with new ones.

For a home sauna, the following stones are usually used:

Thus, there is nothing difficult in arranging a sauna at home with your own hands. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

Happy work!

Video - Sauna at home with your own hands

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can take care of the garden or landscaping the site, and then relax, steam in the bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to properly make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It takes a lot of work, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bath, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly how it will be, but a little later. First you need:

choose a suitable project;
get acquainted with the stages of construction;
purchase building material;
build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
carry out interior decoration and only then take a steam bath.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bathhouse in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all the stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
The rays of the setting sun penetrating into the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it must be done so that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window of the country house. So you can watch the heating bath and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

To avoid conflict situations with the authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only those numbers that you need in order to choose the optimal place for the bath.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

The material from which the supporting and enclosing structures are made		Distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the structure


	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding the distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - showers, baths and saunas should be at a distance of at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, non-observance of these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to take into account the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of buildings:

Frame bath.
Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
Bathhouse made of bricks, stones or blocks.
Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame structures, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you will not have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, in contrast to the frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need insulation.
Stone and brick are not often used to build a bathhouse in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be heated for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, therefore it must be protected from moisture.
Arbolite is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or made of blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Materials for walls

Since in our article we are talking about several possible options for the use of various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

A beam of various sections, the size and quantity of which is indicated in the project.
Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
Material for covering the frame from the outside and from the inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block houses are used for the outer cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

Wooden bath

For the construction of walls can be used:

Natural debarked wood.
Edged timber.
Profiled timber.
Glued laminated timber.
Rounded log.

Bath made of bricks, stones or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

Brick (ceramic or silicate).
Stone (quarry, limestone, shell rock).
Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

If there is an opportunity to inexpensively purchase sawdust (or maybe there are some), then at home it is quite possible to make arbolite blocks of fairly high quality. Also, this building material in the form of ready-made blocks is on sale. Walls are being built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the ability to manufacture monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For lining the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use a wooden lining, as it is able to withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to emit from this wood. Also, you can not hem the ceiling with fiberboard and chipboard sheets, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will make such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is embedded inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation made using a more sophisticated technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

When it comes to vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while a waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you need to pay special attention to is not to buy a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bathhouse in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for the exterior decoration, it can be any material that is used for the cladding of houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now let's look at how the construction of a bathhouse in the country can be done with our own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some assignments can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as they would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful with the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be long-term construction, especially since you simply cannot do some work alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants you may need - this will help you plan everything.

Markup

So, the plan has been selected, the location has been determined, now we will proceed to the marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale indicated in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted by "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct again.

If the foundation is strip, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurate.

This is how we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. You can learn more about this from the table.

Foundation type	Where is markup applied and how is it done
	This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in those cases when you cannot do without it. The marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bath.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is done in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.
Columnar	This type of foundation is also often found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden structures on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of produced supports.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military began to use it for a long time. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to do earthwork, so the site will remain clean. In addition, with its help, you can build a bathhouse even on a site with a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
The groundwater level is quite low.
In winter, frosts are not very strong.
The structure is not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after completing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bath.

We have external markings, now we need to carry out the internal ones, taking into account that the foundation should be at least 50 cm wide and should protrude 5‒10 cm outside the structure on each side. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
It is important to take into account the installation site of the stove and at the same time make the foundation for it.
For convenience, in the corners, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord must be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and move it to the side, then dig a trench, from which the clay can then be used as a bedding.
As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50 - 60 cm.
The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its levelness with a level.
Now it's the turn of the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand inside the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and tamp well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibratory rammer, but it is also possible manually, using a weighty bar with handles nailed to it.
The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully rammed.
Now it is the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be disassembled soon after the foundation is poured. The finished shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete can move them.

In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside with plastic wrap, which must be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire.

The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
If any communications pass through the foundation, then holes need to be left for them, in which the sleeves will help, as is done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
Plan your time to fill the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that 1 bucket of M400 cement is required, 3 of sand, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
The concrete poured foundation should be compacted with a vibrator or pierced. After shrinkage, you need to add some concrete and level the area. If the foundation is being made for a wooden house, then the foundation bolts must be fixed in the non-hardened concrete.
The formwork can be removed not earlier than after a week.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet reached its full strength, so you need to handle it with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Video: building a foundation for a bath

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or bricks, it is necessary to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar according to the level, and lay roofing material on it, folded in half. Laying starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building material.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of bricks and shell rock is erected on a cement-sand mortar, while for laying lightweight blocks, mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used.

Having installed jumpers over the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to start making the roof.

Bath frame construction

The basis of such a bath is a frame made of wood, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. Manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower strapping is made from a bar of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them to each other with self-tapping screws. If bars of 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bath.

At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it end-to-end. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close to between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
The frame of the walls is assembled from a bar of 50 × 100 mm, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, it is necessary to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as an insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disrupting natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay a floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a rough floor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the country will not dry out thoroughly due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to hastily leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it with tiles. Wooden boards are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in the shed and calmly go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. More details about this process are described in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bath

Roof construction

There should be a reliable roof over any bathhouse, but the options for its creation may be different. In any case, you need to install waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely penetrate into the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
If the dacha is located in the steppe zone, blown by all winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
With small dimensions of the bath and insignificant snow load, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bath roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most commonly used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created at high humidity. It should be said right away that pine sawn timber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase larch or linden lining.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore, there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and a dressing room. The pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Decorating a wooden and brick bath with clapboard is almost the same. First, the lathing is attached to the wall, and the lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there must be a heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bathhouse beautiful, but also to protect it. To decorate the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:

Imitation of a bar.
Siding.
Lining.
Block house.
Facade tiles.
Dye.

You just have to choose the right material and finish the facade.

Bath ventilation

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room, it is very hot upstairs, and the legs are freezing.

In fact, during the adoption of bath procedures, the air in the room must be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust outlet is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation as shown in the diagram.

Such a device allows you to keep warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the upper ventilation opening (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

The canopy and all the furniture for a summer cottage can be made independently. If there is no desire to tinker with something else, then there are many offers on the network for the sale of everything you need to give a summer residence.

If you want to save money on furniture, you can revise old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but hands do not reach it? After a small restoration, such furniture can serve for a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.