Work table workbench do it yourself. Production of a universal workshop for workshop with their own hands

The garage is not only a building for storing a car and various utensils. It can repair cars and other products. In this case, do not do without a good plumbing workrist. It can be collected with your own hands, but it is important to understand the features of its design and take into account errors that are often allowed when assembling such structures. The article will tell about the requirements for a good workbench and the idea for self-assembly is provided.

Errors when assembling

It is important to understand well what is not necessary when designing and assembling a metal workbench. First of all, it is worth paying attention to the place where the plumbing workbench will be installed. Often when pouring the floor in the garage is guided by the rule "and so comes up." But this leads to large plane drops, which adversely affects the locksmith workbench. For example, some masters who decide to make a locksmith workbench on eight or six supports, face that after installation, half the support is in the air, and the workbench itself turns out of the side of the strand.

Working for such a plumbing workbench is very uncomfortable, and small details are constantly lost. The exit of the current situation may be the construction of regulated supports. In this case, powerful bolts are installed in the bottom of the lower part, which will align the locksmith vestic in the horizontal position. Another option will be preliminary surface preparation. For this, part of the screed is removed, which is already flooded and the new one, which aligns clearly along the horizon. In this case, it will not be necessary to manufacture additional parts for the maintenance table supports.

Another solution to such an error is to reduce the number of supports up to 4 pieces. In this case, it will be easier to achieve the right position even on an uneven surface. With proper design and construction of the frame, there should not be problems with the sustainability of the entire structure. Additionally, a shelf or several shelves for storing consumables and tools are built at the bottom of the plug. One of them should be as close as possible to the floor surface. In this case, the heavy tool that can be placed on it will act as a balancer for the entire frame.

Design nuances

There is always the opportunity to avoid assembling the footage of the table with your own hands. In this case, you can buy cheap consumer goods or the product that was used by the Master. But each of these options has its significant minuses. In the first case, there is no guarantee that such a plumbing workbench will last long, since cheap options are collected from production waste, not high-quality material. Used products may have excellent strength characteristics and have an attractive design, but do not always comply with the specific requirements of the garage, where it is planned to install it. Therefore, the best way will be the assembly of its own design on the designed drawing.

There are several factors that allow you to collect the most comfortable design under your needs in the locksmiths. When designing, it is important to consider:

• height;
• width;
• depth;
• strength.

The first and one of the most important factors is the correct selection of height for the future plumbing design. If the workshop succeeds lower than it is required, then there will be a large load on the back, since it will be necessary to work in a bent state. With too much height of the locksmith workrist, legs and hands will have to be stretched to the details. The ideal is the option when the table top is at the navel level. In this case, the forearms and brushes of the hands are perfect on the plane and do not have to strain the back.

With regard to the width of the locksmith, there is no strict rules. It all depends on which products on it will be placed. In the classic version, the width is selected under human height. In this case, standing in the middle, you can reach any point of the workbench. The depth of the product should be so that you should not be tilted to get an object lying in depth. Usually 50 or 60 cm is enough. Particular attention should be paid to the strength of the structure. With this indicator it is impossible to rearrange, since it has to work on a plumbing workshop, and sometimes to put strong blows in detail.

Tip! The construction of a workbench for fitter work should be carried out only from the metal. Wooden structures are not able to withstand the desired load, even if you choose solid wood and tinted with metal.

Making your own hands

For a sample for self-making, you can take a table with two lateral stands. Such a table has four supports. You can build the shelves for easy access, and on the other hand, install pull-out drawers, which are easy to store small things. To implement the entire project, this material will be needed:

• profile tube with a size of 6 × 4 cm;
• 5 × 5 cm corner;
• sheet metal for countertops.

From the profile pipe it is necessary to prepare horizontal beams. They will need three or four pieces. Length will depend on personal needs, but usually enough two meters. Vertical racks are selected in harmony with their own growth, as described above. They are made of the same profiled tube, you will need four pieces. The wall thickness of the profiled tube is false to at least 2 mm.

Additionally prepared ten blanks for the framework of the shelter under the shelves and retractable boxes. You can be guided by the dimensions that are given above. To strengthen the design, the design will be needed, which will be fixed in the corners. From the purchased corner, vertical racks are prepared to which the stand for the hand tool will be fixed. Such racks will need four pieces. Their height is usually 2 meters.

Note! To implement the entire project on the construction of the workbench, approximately 225 meters of square pipe will be required. A corner for racks will require 8 meters, and the bus coves with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 40 mm will be required about 10 meters.

The square tube itself does not have the required rigidity on the break. That is why a metal corner is welded around the perimeter of the workbench. Thanks to the correct location of the corner, the framework is obtained, which will simply lay a metal sheet that will perform a tabletop. The tabletop of the workbench is not necessarily made from thick sheet metal, since its cost can be quite high. Another option will be laying of durable boards, which are covered with sheet metal with a lesser thickness. Such a design is better absorbs sound when hitting and has a smaller return.

Tip! Additionally, a layer of rubber layer can be laid between the board and metal sheet, which will act as a shock absorber.

Assembly of the carcass

The assembly of the design of a fitter's workbench does not cause difficulties if you have the skill work with the welding machine. Thanks to the harvested details, everything becomes simple and understandable. The best solution will be the use of semi-automatic, not arc welding. In this case, the material warms up to the desired temperature and does not roast from the electrode. Seams are neat and durable.

First of all, you need to make a rectangular base for the design of a plumbing workbench. For this, two blanks will be required, the length of which is equal to the depth of the table, and two blanks, the length of which is equal to the width of the workbench. The ends are cut into a barrage under an angle of 45 degrees to provide the perfect adjoining knot. Vistak blanks are laid out on a flat horizontal surface. Initially, they must be fixed with small patches and firing if necessary. Next, the overlap of the full seam is performed on the design. It will take to make the province and on the other hand.

The next step is the installation of four struts of a locksmith. They are welded to the prepared frame. They must be arranged vertically. After that, the lower binding is performed in three parties. At the same stage, vertical racks are welded under the stand for the tool, which will be above the plumbing workbench. The next step is to install frames for drawers and shelves, as can be seen in the photo above. At the same time, an additional crossbar is fixed between them, but she is welded with a displacement to the middle, so that it is convenient to stand behind a plumbing workbench.

Finishing work

When the frame is ready, you can start the corner for the fitting layer table top. The board is cut on the size obtained and stacked in the grooves. Before that, it must be treated with antiseptic and antipyrenes so that it does not produce while working on the workbench. This is especially true when there are two parts or work with a tool from which sparks is flying on a plumbing workshop. After laying the board on the workbench, you can place a metal sheet, as can be seen in the photo. The sheets of plywood are screwed to high vertical racks, in which the holes for the tool are screwed.

To make the tool, it is necessary to sew walls, using a paneur or other suitable material. In the bedside table on the left, holders for partitions that will be equipped with shelves. On the right in the workbench in the drawings are planned boxes that can be collected from the board, which was laid under the worktop of the workbench.

The metal is subject to corrosion exposure from moisture, so the surface must be protected by paint. Before painting, it is necessary to clean the framework of the locksmiths with a grinding machine and degrease. After that, a layer of primer is applied. After complete drying, the workbench frame is covered by the finish layer of enamel. It must be paint, which is resistant to temperatures, as well as mechanical effects.

Usually on a plumbing workbench are a vice and a small anvil. Under them can be provided for additional base. Mounted such modules on a plumbing workbench on the left to be convenient access to them, and they did not interfere with the fulfillment of the main work. Another important device for a plumbing workbench is lighting. It must be installed on the top so that it does not overlap the head and the hands of the master. LED spotlights can be used as light source workrogs. Several of them are installed stationary and somewhat must be moved along the plane of the workbench. In this case, you can choose the best lighting angle.

Before proceeding with the works on a new locksmith workrist, it must be maximum loaded to ensure stability, as stated above. Some hosts additionally fix the support legs to the concrete base through anchor bolts. Video with the assembly of another version of the plumbing table is below.

Summary

As can be seen, the design of the fitting table can be assembled independently. Help may be required when conducting welding works, since it requires special skills and skills. The second person can help when assembling, when there is a need to hold weld details.

For the convenience of processing wood, stone, plastic and metal, for finishing and assembly manipulations, a work joiner's workbench is often needed. To make it with your own hands, the drawings will not be required - they are needed for work desks of complex designs, which are also described in this article.

Purpose and typical workbench device

Any workbench is a massive and necessarily stable desktop for processing products of various dimensions. The more its size, the dimensions and heavier items can be processed on it. Moreover, the work itself is performed as a manual tool (with knife, protever, etc.) and mechanized - for example, with an electrical drill or electruruck. The joiner's workbench has the following typical layout:

• The working surface is performed from a massive board, a thickness of at least 60 mm. For the workbench, it is desirable to use solid rocks - beech, rack or oak, otherwise it will have to be periodically changed due to rapid wear. The lid can be led from individual dry boards and before installing the Olife process;
• On the front (facial) part of the top cover "hang out" visks for fastening the processed products. If the linear size of the workbench exceeds 1 meter, you can install two vice - separately for large and small parts. Large vice should be wooden, small permissible in the "steel option";
• Topic supports are made of soft wood - pine or linden. Wooden workbenches are necessarily interconnected by longitudinal planks for the overall stability of the structure;
• On supports in an expanded space, retractable or tightly fixed shelves for tools can be located.

A row holes for installing clamps, wedges and other parts for fasteners are drilled in the front of the top cover. In the rear of the working surface, it includes a deepening - it is intended for small parts and accessories. It is possible to replace the complex in the manufacture of a perimeter of wooden plates.

Homemade workbench can have three types of constructive design:

• Mobile. A small table with dimensions of about 70 per 80 cm in length and width, with one vice and weighing up to 30 kg. The lower parts of the supports are made of metal for additional stability. Designed for small repair and working with light wood products;
• A stationary workbench of a simple design is easy to manufacture, but firmly "tied" to one place. Used to handle heavy boards and massive wooden blanks;
• Compound on bolted connections. It is convenient for its "discerning" and simplicity of the replacement of individual parts, but the manufacture is more complicated by others.

Photo Gallery: Drawings with dimensions and designations

Methods for independent manufacture of stationary and adjustable workbenches Consider more. Stationary laughed in the ground in its own area, in the country or in the yard. If it is installed inside the garage or other working room, it is recommended to attach it well to the floor so that the workbench did not swing during operation.

The assembly sequence is as follows:

1. The base is a frame of wooden bars, which is fastened so that the structure is as a result as reliable as possible. To do this, you need to arrange a jumper between the legs, and in the middle to install the kingu. They are best arranged at a distance of about 40 cm from the floor level. By the way, they will also be suitable for creating additional shelves. Brussia is combined with the help of construction glue. Where it is impossible to carry out such work, you need to operate the screws. If you are going to make a disassembly tool, it is best to connect with metal corners. In any case, all the grooves are first prepared, then the design is assembled, the glue is processed by the compounds, fix them with clamps. The best option for a stationary workbench is considered the possibility of part of the instrument to attach to the wall for reliability.

   The base is a frame from BRUSEV

2. If you build a tabletop from several boards, it is important to make it high quality as high quality so that garbage and sawdust fall into the gaps. The dimensions must exceed the width and the length of the base by 3-5 cm - this will allow with all the amenities to clean the tool.
3. The countertop is screwed and nailed to several boards, which are on the other side of the working surface, and at the base it is necessary to place the grooves for mounting bars.

   Boards are attached to a steady frame

4. The desktop should be put in order with the help of a grinding machine, cover the oil to reduce the risk of injury from pinch, and metal corners are screwed to its base bolts.
5. To the already made working surface is a clinium vice, which should be created in the working surface, this will allow you to position the vertical plate into one plane with the worktop. From the bottom side, we establish a plywood gasket, while it is important to make that the lips of the vice are located at one level with the surface. Applying a vice, mark the site where the holes will be drilled, and attach them with nuts. Pre-milling holes so that the bolts in them "stop". It is best to install vice not at the corners, which will make them reliable even subject to lags.

   To the surface of the workbench, you can attach a vice or saw

6. In addition to vice, you must do and stops. Of course, they can be made independently, but it is better to purchase and ready. However, if you decide to create them with your own hands, prepare rectangular stops that can be adjusted in height. Bolts should not be used because they can damage the workpieces when working. On the working surface, we do the holes for the stops, while it is desirable to be located at a distance of up to 50% of the progress - this will allow you to securely secure any billets.

Video: Vistak with vice

Video: Desktop with saw

How to make a simple joiner workbench do it yourself

1. The top cover is peeled from thick boards, from which a massive shield of 70 cm wide and up to 2 meters should be turned out. For fasteners, long nails are used, driven into the boards with the "facade" side and carefully bend on the wrong wooden jumpers. The work surface of the workbench is necessarily performed from a wooden array, fiberboard, chipboard and other materials from pressed chips for it categorically not suitable.
2. A good constructive solution will be the cover of the lid along the bottom perimeter of the 5 cm with 5 cm - subsequently, it is convenient to fix vertical supports to it. Increased severity of the cover will only give additional stability to the entire construction.
3. The location of the top cover of our workbench depends on the location of the vertical supports. It is advisable to make them from a rectangular timber with dimensions from 120 by 120 mm. You can take as a support and round forest, but its fasteners are not so reliable as in square (rectangular) bars. Of great importance is the height of the working surface, the convenience of carpentry manipulations depends on it.
4. Optimally install the upper slice of the supports at the level of lowered down hands - due to the installation of the cover, the overall height of the workbench "grows up" by 7-10 cm and work on it is quite convenient. On Earth, we carry out the markup to the wells for vertical supports and dig them to a depth of 25-30 cm. Accordingly, the total length of the bars of bars is 1.2-1.3 meters.
5. Vertical bars are installed in the dug holes exactly, strictly in the construction level. The installed supports are connected in pairs using wide boards at an altitude of 20-40 cm. The transverse boards are attached to vertical bars with long screws. After that, the operating surface is mounted on the ends of the supports. For its installation, self-supersubs are used, since the hammer blows on nails can move the framework of our design.
6. When the upper cover is securely fixed, you can "hang" vice, clamps and other devices for the convenience of joinery.

If the design is more complicated

In the manufacture of a composite joiner's workbench with their own hands, the drawings will be required, although the manufacturer's procedure itself is largely similar to the above. The main differences are related to the use of bolted connections instead of self-sufficient screws and mounting boxes for the tool in an expanded space.

When the installation of the vertical support is completed, they are connected to among themselves horizontal jumpers. Previously in each jumper with the help of the chisels and the hammer, the grooves under the nut with a washer (you can use special furniture bolts with C-shaped nuts). By setting a bar-jumper to the height, a through hole in which a long bolt is inserted in the vertical support and the horizontal bar is drilled. From the side of the prepared groove on the bolt "Introduced" the nut with the washer and is thoroughly dragged on the thread.

Horizontal jumpers for the framework of the collapsible workbench will be required two from all four sides. In addition, it is necessary to set 1-2 jumpers in the middle of the table, directly under it. Horizontal rails are attached to these additional jumpers for small self-tapping screws, which will slide drawers for the tool. The boxes themselves are manufactured "at the place", that is, depending on the size of the assembly lumen between the jumpers.

The working cover of the collapsible workbench is also attached on the bolts. In the rapid part of the vertical supports with the help of the chisel, the mounting recess is hosted, the holes under the bolts are drilled in the lid. Because A smooth working surface is necessary, the heads of the bolts are "combed" in the lid due to the drills of the appropriate diameter drills drill.

Video: how to make an independent milling table

The indisputable advantage of the collapsible workbench is not only in the easy replacement of parts and the table top. As is known, under the load from planing, drilling, with another mechanical processing, the most durable workbench is loosened. It is much more reliable and easier to re-tighten the fastening bolts than to drive new nails or screws into the wood - so the collapsible models serve much longer than the incomplete analogues.

Video: folding table workbench

The design of the joinery will be dependent on your needs. In order to make it with your own hands, sufficiently minimal knowledge and skills.

About carpentry vestics

Device and purpose of workbench

The joiner's workbench is a desktop for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic joinery of the workbench make it possible to fix items in various spatial positions and with the maximum convenience to perform the main carpentry operations: to make wooden parts, produce assembling structures, cover them with finishing compositions. The traditional joinery table is designed to work with a lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer blanks, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The table for carpentry works consists of a vertical board (cover) and an expanded (carrier frame). The traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vice with which the billets are fixed in the necessary spatial positions.

In the lid of the table and wooden sponges of vice there are holes. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Preparations of the stops in the desired configuration, between them there are parts and pressed the screw mechanism of the vice. Thus, the billet is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, it is used to fit the corresponding height, which will not be over the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal height of the workbench?

The height of the joinery vestipes varies within 85-95 cm. The optimal table height is selected focusing on the growth of the wizard. If, standing at the workbench, the palms are free to rest in his cover, then the Rostovka is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench will be convenient to perform all the basic operations, without frequent bends and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are better to produce the design?

The joiner's workbench should have sufficient strength and rigidity, because during operation it is subjected to large loads as static, generated under the weight of massive blanks and dynamic, drilling, drilling, and pr. Such strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, But the type of materials used.

For the manufacture of the base, the wood of coniferous rocks is traditionally used. The cover of the table is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. Lumber used to create a vertical board must be dry (humidity of about 12%) without bitch and other vices.

About making a brandy cover

Experience shows that in the manufacture of a joiner's workbench, with their own hands, it is advisable to purchase an already ready glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. Forces and times spent on cutting, seven edges, gluing the shield and its alignment when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with savings.

When performing works that increase the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, duck, etc., the work surface of the workbench is better to be closed with a thick plywood sheet or DVP cut out on the shape of the lid. Make this simple flooring appropriately at once with the workbench.

Production and assembly Side

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), Tsarg and supports (a). The item is collected on a cross-cutting glued spike.

Figure cuts of the CARG and supports (part a) are cut on a ribbon saw with subsequent grinding edges.

In accordance with the dimensions specified in the scheme, the laying of the nests for the spikes of pride makes, after which they choose their chisel or milling.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess under the head of the tie bolt. The recess with a diameter of 35 mm and 11 mm depth is made by the forstner drill. The center is drilled through a hole with a diameter of 14 mm.

Drinking spikes and lylish

Spikes and eyelets are made on a saw or manually, guided by the basic principles for creating thickening connections. In such a responsible design, the first option is preferable because it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. Billets must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions specified in the drawing.

Halves of parts A glued together, after placing the liner in the sinus, which will prevent offset.

Build the sidewall

Details A and B glue into a ready-made connection. After drying, the shearding excess glues neatly cleaned with the chisel. The collected sidewall is grinding.

In the center of the glued tsargi drill a hole 19x38 mm under the wanking (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Production of pride and exposure shelf

According to the dimensions specified in the drawing, the blanks for the prodrice (part C) are cut in the amount of 4 pieces. At the ends of each detail make spikes, sticking to the sizes indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, it is better to carry out this operation on a silent.

The connection of the pionerage with the sidewall is made detachable on the bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, on the inside of the prodes, the recess for the transverse nuts D25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is obtained. In the known ends, the hole is drilled 14x95 mm. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling conductor, because the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The reference strips (part D and E) are screwed by self-pressing with a retreat of 22 mm from the upper edges of the pride.

According to the "Total Detail" specified in the drawing, the volumes of the exposure shelf (part f) are fixed. At the ends of each plank, the holes are drilled and ripped. The planks are grinding and consistently mounted on the collected frame.

Installation of the brandy cover

On the back of the vertical board, the non-separation holes D19 mm and a depth of 32 mm under the sewage (L) are drilled.

Drill D19 mm on the lid make through holes for the vertical stops. Similar jacks with a depth of 45 mm are drilled on the cover of the lid. All holes are filmed. The stops should be easily included in the nests and not to peel.

Tip! When performing all drilling operations, use a drill with a conductor to ensure neat openings under an ideal direct angle. Make such a guide will not be labor itself, having a brusal trim.

Installation of verstatic vice

Deciding to make a workbench with their own hands, joiner's vice are more advisable to buy in the finished form. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and that it is important to get rid of an extra headache when installing them.

Manufacturers of thickens are trying to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the scheme of installation of typical structures. But it is quite possible. You will have to improvise, adapting the installation under the features of non-standard verstatic vice.

Sponges of vice - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - cut from solid rocks. After that, drill holes for guide rods, driving screws, nests for vertical stops and holes for fastening screws.

The rear sponges of the front and rear vice are mounted to the workbench lid as shown in the photo.

Wooden lining (part K) cut under the sizes of the vice. Through the kings drill through holes for guide rods and driving screws.

Tip! For accurate layout of the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of painting scotch and a soft pencil.

Each home master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a steady and reliable carpentry, equipped with all sorts of fittings for the processing of parts, is half success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the work desk can be bought in the trading network. Nevertheless, we recommend making it yourself. First, it will make it possible to get a product of the desired size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench, additional equipment can be placed the most rational manner. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory option, which will allow you to buy a high-quality instrument on saved money. If these arguments gave you reason to think about the manufacture of the desktop with their own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help to build a good, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Appointment and design of a typical joinery workbench

Durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long-term work with wooden details.

The joiner's workbench is essentially a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products of any size. The main requirements for the equipment of this type are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of fixtures for fixing and retaining blanks. The size of the desktop is selected depending on the size and weight of the processed parts, as well as free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.

Joiner's worktop design with a set tabletop. Figure: 1 - base or exposure; 2 -screen board; 3 - stublog; 4 - screed; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the works that are carried out on a joinery machine are performed using a manual and electrical instrument, the workbench is made from a massive bar and thick boards. By the way, the working surface, or a different vista board, is collected only from solid wood varieties. In the manufacture of tabletops, dry oak, beech or robber boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will quickly wear out and requires periodic update. Often the vistatic lid is gaining from several narrow and thick boards, setting them on the edge.

A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install resistant elements for the convenience of processing long wooden blanks.

In order to facilitate the design of the reference legs of the desktop, on the contrary, made of soft wood. Between themselves, vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed timber to increase the stability of the product.

Typical diagram of joinery

On the front and side of the workbench, the vice of a special design for fastening blanks. In addition, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted on overall machines. The optimal location of the joineric vice is the left side of the front apron and the closest part of the right sidewall.

In an expanded space between supports, under the tabletop, often equip comfortable shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience in the back of the table tops make a notch under the accessories and small details. Often, a complex in the manufacture of recess is replaced by a frame shot from wooden plates.

Types and constructive execution

All homemade desktops for carpentry work can be divided into three types:

1. Mobile workbenches have weight up to 30 kg, dimensions less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, equipped with one visits and are made partially made of metal elements. Similar machines are designed to work with small, light billets or small repair of wooden products. The mobile desktop is an excellent option with a lack of space and can be installed in any room at the cottage or on the balcony. Often mobile workbenches have folding design.

   Homemade carboard mobile design

   
   

   If there is no need for inpatient, professional workbench, then for small repair work or the manufacture of small parts, you can convert the old writing desk.

2. Stationary carpentry workbench is manufactured with reference to a specific place and is not intended to move during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to handle parts of any size and weight.

   Stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, sustainable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and features of the room

3. Machine of an integral type is the most complex in the manufacture. However, this design is due to its variability is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are connected to the bolted joints.

   Composite workbench is a construction that can be adjusted for any requirements

Project and drawings

When developing a joiner's workbench design, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will be operated by the desktop - left-handers or right.

Considering that it is necessary to work at the joiner's workbench for a long time, the height of the future structures should be given close attention. For people of medium height, experts are recommended to make a table not higher than 90 cm.

Thoughts of a joinery workbench

Determining the distance from the floor to the table top, it is best to navigate not to the average parameters, but on the peculiarities of your own anatomy. Optimally, if the upper cut of the legs will be on the same level with hands. If you calculate this option, taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then it will be possible to work for such a workbench without tired within a few hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, wooden array or plywood and is a typical design. Use chipboard or OSB for these purposes is not recommended. Professional joiners have long been determined the optimal size of the countertops - a maximum of 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench with the same convenience, you can make a prefabricated wooden door, and a small window.

Designing the construction, do not forget about the strength of the carrier frame. For reference structural elements, a timing is used by a cross section of at least 100x100 mm. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, the use of rails and timber secting is permanently - from 50 to 60 mm and more. The joints of the parts are mounted on the spikes or seasons, for strength, use furniture corners and other reinforcement, and all connections are performed using bolts and screws. Nails provide the required stability and the fundamental structurality will not be able.

Joiner's workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or in a different bed of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material allows with less labor costs to make a design with a height-adjustable, professional carpenter prefer wooden structures.

Next, consider the draft joinery table of a plywood made of plywood, or rather from two glued plywood sheets with a thickness of 1.8 mm. The dimensions of the lid - 150x60 cm. At the edges, the table top has an amplification of plywood bands, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the dimensions presented are not the dogma and can be adjusted if necessary in accordance with the needs and features of the particular premises used under the workshop.

Required tools and materials

Plywood 18 mm thick is quite expensive material (the price of one sheet of 1.5x1.5 m size is more than 700 rubles without taking into account the cost of delivery). For our project, you will need at least two sheets of this material. You can save a bit if you buy one, more overall sheet with dimensions 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase plywood trimming with a width of at least 300 mm, which will go on the enhancement of the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, for the construction of a joinery machine will be required:

• wooden timing with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
• timber or rails with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for the elements of the frame of the frame;
  Choosing a sawn timber for a joinery, carefully examine the billets for the absence of bitch and cracks. Remember that these details will work under a long load;
• electric drill with a set of conventional and feathers dried;
• segments of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for lining under clamp;
• carpentry glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive composition of the "Moment of the Stolar";
• furniture bolts with nuts and screws;
• circular Saw;
• carbon carbon;
• long rule (at least 2 m);
• construction level;
• spatula toothed with the size of the cut sectors not lower than 3 mm;
• carpentry clamps.

The clamps needed to compress the plywood sheets when gluing should be durable and reliable. If you are a non-professional joiner and do not have a high-quality tool, you can do inexpensive clamping devices of Chinese production. Of course, the number of similar devices must be doubled.

Instructions for manufacture

1. For the manufacture of the table, cut two blanks with disk saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then it is necessary to spill one billet with a length of 1520 mm. Cutting it in half, you will receive two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, the rule check for each sheet a concave and convex parties. This will make it possible to correctly orient sheets when gluing.

   High-quality gluing provides clamp metal parts for clamps

   
   

   In order to glue the plywood sheets correctly, they are folding with convex parties to each other.

2. Setting one billet into three parallel stacked boards, apply joiner glue on its surface. To do this, use direct and toothed spatulas. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to be prematurely captured. The "Moment of the Stolar" producer recommends connecting the details no later than two minutes after the start of the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use carpentry glue that does not have temporary limitations. Of course, the connection strength will be slightly reduced, but even the furniture mixture of "PVA" of good quality will ensure an acceptable degree of gluing.

   In order to avoid damage to the workpiece under the clamps put the supporting boards

3. Setting the second workpiece over the first, along the perimeter of the future table cover, put the supporting boards and begin to push the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to monitor the flatness of the part with the help of the rule. The center of the workpiece to pull the clamps will not work, so in this part it is possible to install weight weighing at least 15-20 kg.
   

   It is possible to glue the plywood sheets into the shield without clamps, if you manage to find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as the cargo of sufficient mass.

4. After drying, the clamp glue is removed and proceed to strengthen the side surfaces of the countertop. For this, plywood strip 15 cm is glued throughout the perimeter of the lid in two layers. Performing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely overlap the docking space.

   Strengthening the side parts of the vertical table with additional plywood stripes

5. For the carriage of the side surfaces of the table apply a disk saw. The plank is behaved smoothly, slowly. As a guide, it is convenient to use all the same rule. The tabletop gives size 1500x600 mm with the observance of direct angles, for which they use a joinery of the carbon or the factory angle of plywood sheet.
6. The workbenches are made from a bar with a cross section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prodes and kings, for which the lumber is used by a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to your height.

   Making a carcass of a joinery workbench

7. The assembly of the legs produce "in thorn" or using the wrenches, necessarily catching joinery on the parts connected.
8. Collecting the upper and lower frame of an expanding, cutting the corners of 90 degrees between the details. Perform this requirement will be easier, if at the stage of preparation of parts it is properly traced by their edges. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, given the distance from the floor to the bottom of the pride, 150 mm.

   Hide the heads of the bolts and washers will help holes made in the details of the feathers drill

If you wish, you can build a shelf in an expanded. To do this, the plywood panel is cut into the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cuts under the feet of the machine are made.

Installation of additional equipment

This carpentry vestic is impossible to present without fixtures designed to fix the workpieces processed. For these purposes, the finished tabletop fasten the vice in such a way that their sponges are on the same level with the surface of the lid. To properly install the device on the workbench, the vice is applied to the machine and mark the locations of the mounts. After that, drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm and set the tool to the machine using the M12 threaded bolted connection. Performing this operation, be sure to promiscover the holes under the washers and the heads of the bolts.

View of the finished product with tisting

If there is no possibility to establish stationary vice, you can do without them, using rubbish clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vice, the work desk provide stops. For this, a row of holes are drilled in the tabletop. The best rests are parties made of wood, since metal devices can damage the workpiece. Nests under the support elements are located at a distance equal to half of the pricks. This will allow reliably to fix the workpiece of any size.

VIDEO: Joiner's workbench do it yourself

Building a joiner's workbench - the task is quite complicated. Nevertheless, the personally assembled machine will allow working in a comfortable, comfortable setting. This requires not only to consider the ergonomics of the working space and properly prepare the project of the structure, but also to perform work in full compliance with the recommendations of professional carpets. Only then the resulting product will be durable and sustainable, glading its master over long years of service.

I want to cook in the garage of the workbench. Flooring, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpe, and fasten the tisks, and fold tools in the boxes.

Managed to visualize their intentions. Long moved different layout options and prevented the dimensions. I think I found an optimal option for myself.

Blue indicates metal parts, yellow - wooden.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, condensed with a 60x50x4 corner and covered with a metal sheet 2mm. The framework of the workbench will be welded from the profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffness ribs will be cooked from the corner 40x40x4. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick boards. From the 40x4 strip will be made guides for fastening side panels. Boxes will be welded from metal 2mm and installed on powerful sleds.

To purchase a metal, we agreed with wild on two to order a gazelle to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 am, so as not to stretch it for the whole day, went to the metal base.

The weather was slimy and cold wind. Loader in Rvan Army Bushlak, which suffered from a hangover syndrome, pulled a wet metal for cutting. A dirty carrying was lying around in the pool with a grinder connected to it. Sliced \u200b\u200bpieces of metaloprinkate spacked into a slushful puddle. Nearby expected ordered Gazelle. Light.

Do not consider me by the maniac, but after arriving in the garage, I soap water and wiped dry chumased chumased pieces of fresh metal. All the same it is brushing it before painting, and so it will be more pleasant to work with it.

At that severe January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook your workbench.

The cutting of the main parts of the carcass took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 cooked parts.
On the tags it is indicated that it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely postpone everything in a long box and surrendered to the thick silent sticky bog of everyday irresponsive routine.

Cooked brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base is welded for homemade countertops.

Coarse the bases for the table top welded flush with the corner. For this, curly cuts are made in cross-cuts. Here is a small sherchezh, as it looks like:

In the meantime, the brackets of the toolbar.

Lining from 4mm bands strengthened loaded joints.

I welded 24 bracket for side panels. Panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.

Brackets give the extra rigidity of the entire design.

I want to cover the tabletop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. On Moscow Prospekta there is a reference, which metal sheets immediately cut into size. I need a sheet of 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired dimensions.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b] let's cooperate, and then one is expensive.

From 15mm plywood made drawers. Collected 80mm on screws. In each drawer for 20 screws. It turned out firmly as I love.

Size of each box 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

Salazki fucked welding. He learned to weld a tin 1mm to a 4mm 3mm electrode strip on a current 100 amner. It is how to put in the kitchen processor automotive engine V8 of 3 liters. Just the tig was lazy to discourage. Moreover, it is so secure.

Now I think over different options for facades.

On this welding stage ended. Ahead is carpenter and paint. More little things, plumbing and electrically conductive.

Painting of the carcass homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to advise good paint.
- Wah, what good paint, my mother swear! - He replied stretching the bank of paints on rust with a metal crumb for 500 rubles.

She covered the table top with a cutting board of 150x40. Crepeled boards to a frame of self-drawing 4.0x35. In total, the 60 self-tapping screws.

A bit polished the surface to lay the metal tightly.

Polit about protecting wood from fire. In impregnated wood cannot support burning itself.
When heated with impregnated wood, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits oxygen access to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation stated the I group of flame retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, it does not allow cooking metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards still do not light up, then you work. To organize a welding post, I plan to cook a removable grille that reliably protect the surface of the table top from the thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the table top of the already harvested sheet of metal 4mm.

She covered a tabletop 4mm sheet metal. The sheet pulled to a wooden basis with a row of screws with a hidden head. The table top turned out to be monumental.

10mm plywood shields covered extra openness in the workbench frame.
In the photo the paint shop.

Prescribed permanent tenants on the table top - a grinding machine and vice. They are lost on a hefty countertop.

1) What is better to cover your bare metal on the table top? I tend to the rust converter, which will create a solid protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) where to take a durable chair with an adjustable height?

P.S. I think that reading this branch will be interested - the Bourgeois site with a bunch of welded tables and other welders: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the process of manufacturing the entire presented.

Nevertheless decided and smeared the tabletop Rust converter. It is necessary to smear a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop slowed down with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, it was not a bad idea to smear the countertop. The film really turned out, as if the lacquer was covered. True, it is not very accurate, but it is really easily restored - because The film is easily dissolved by the new portion of the converter and rewinds hiding all the old damage.

From the big one - there is a panel for instruments and place fasteners on it for the whole-only one.
I want to hang the sheet of plywood or one-piece furniture shield with a thickness of 15 mm and the size of 2.2 meters x 1 meter. If anyone has such, I propose an exchange for a metal sheet of 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (remained from the tabletop).

Well, in fact, then for what ...

Test passed

Class! It is no longer necessary to use the manual power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and roulettes on all accessible shelves and catches around and looking for them, forgetting where to put it - everything is in one place and at hand.

Mounted tool panel. Whole, of 21 mm plywood.

4 corner 50x50x4 plus plywood 21mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals tens of kilograms of tools without fearing something break

Facades for boxes made 21st plywood

That's all.
Dream workbench is ready. Sometimes something came out curved, but I am very pleased with the result.

The weight of the workbench net exceeded 200 kilograms. Table tops 1.65 square meters, area of \u200b\u200btoolbar 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right Tumb is almost one cubic meter. The peculiarity of the workbench is that you can sit when working with a tig, and a 4mm metal sheet-covered table top is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, boxes and panels allow you to conveniently store almost all the tool available with me, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade dream workbench.
I think there will work my great-grandmothers on it.

P.S. And after a small refinement, a great make-up table is obtained)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/16464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bold point in the project some more photos.

Self-tapping screws and twisted quickly and easily (if there is a screwdriver, of course).

Over time, brought wrenches, holders for drill and screwdrivers, bracket for paper towels, and additional lighting. The benefit that two square meters there is where to turn around. The thing I smeared awesome. Satisfied Aki Elephant.

First, small vice did not stand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vice are installed. On one side, they had a five-pointed star, on the other - the figures 1958 - probably, the year of release. It turns out, they are 56 years old? I hope they will serve me as much. In general, good vice is the pride of the master.

It can be seen in the photo that the tabletop repels not much beyond the size of the walls. Therefore, when fastening the pisses to the bolts it will not work out to be cut down to tighten the nut. I thought so. Things and sharpened on the tabletop using anchor bolts. It looks neat and keeps deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that deep boxes in the right tamba are not very comfortable. It was better to make their smaller size. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out to be a great thing. All tools in one place, in sight and are always ready. On the big tabletop also there is where to decompose.

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