Forced ventilation in the bath: ways of organizing and installing a good hood. How to make a cooker hood in a bath - design and installation of ventilation Do-it-yourself cooker hood in a steam room

The temperature background and the high level of moisture in the bath are favorable conditions for the settlement of all kinds of harmful microorganisms. Among them are bacteria, viruses, molds that destroy wood and the lung system of lovers of bath procedures. Competently made ventilation in the bath will relieve the aforementioned negativity. How to do it?

We will tell you all about the rules for organizing ventilation systems designed to dry wet rooms. Using reliable information will help you design and implement a flawless ventilation project. The data presented for consideration is based on building codes and practical experience of builders.

The article describes in detail the methods of construction of ventilation systems designed to remove water suspended in the air, drying the finish and supporting structures. The materials and components required for their arrangement are described. Photo apps and video tutorials can help you master a tricky topic.

The bathhouse needs regular air renewal. This is a safety requirement for people taking bath procedures. Also, proper ventilation can extend the service life up to 50 years or more.

The type of ventilation system is selected individually and depends on the location, the size of the structure, and the materials used in the construction.

Bath ventilation schemes

According to the principle of operation, all existing ventilation systems are divided into natural, forced and combined. In the first case, ventilation occurs due to the arbitrary flow of street air, mixing it in the room and displacing the spent air through the holes in a natural way.

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If there is insulation, then a counter-lattice must be installed to ensure ventilation between the insulation and other layers of the roof. It is also used to ventilate wall structures so that condensation does not form in the thickness of the layers.

To dry the floors, use volley ventilation or equip a ventilated floor. This option should be considered during the construction phase. To do this, perform a rough floor, carefully pouring concrete under a slope, and the finishing floor is made of hardwood boards, leaving small gaps between them. This floor provides quick removal of excess moisture.

It is important to properly organize ventilation in all areas of the bath. Particular attention should be paid to the washing / shower room, where high humidity threatens the formation of mold and mildew

All bath rooms need aeration, including:

washing room;
dressing room / rest room;
other premises.

To arrange proper ventilation, you have to choose the optimal scheme that suits the requirements and conditions of a particular bath. It is important to remember that fresh air must be supplied to all rooms and also removed from all.

They build ventilation ducts, make supply and exhaust openings in the walls or mount a whole system of air ducts - everything is very individual

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend laying complex ventilation duct systems, preferring to stay on the simplest solution that is suitable for a particular case. The rule works here - the simpler the better. And for the price, a simple option will cost several times cheaper.

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The positive effect of regular bath procedures on the body is invaluable. At the same time, a bath is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, rest and gatherings. However, all the benefits can easily be covered by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bath.

The importance of the system

Even in the old days, the architects understood that the lack of fresh air in the bath can quickly cause dampness, mold, and fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why, even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they helped to improve air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Nowadays, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require the expenditure of effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, because after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constantly high humidity, and if the bath is built using frame technology, then its service life will be even less. The first sign of the beginning of destruction will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable at the moment the stove is kindled. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous to life and health, since carbon monoxide accumulates in the air, spores of fungi and mold, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in the bath must certainly comply with the basic requirements and safety principles:

Correct redistribution of air masses. As you know from the school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush up, and cold ones, on the contrary, go down. Therefore, the streams should be directed so that the feet do not freeze, and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
Maintaining a preset heating level in the steam room. Ventilation should under no circumstances interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, air cooling is unacceptable.
Application of waterproof materials. For the arrangement of steam rooms and the organization of ventilation in them, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to humidity and high temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating an effective air exchange system is that it faces the task of quickly removing hot humid air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is required to prevent the temperature in the hot steam room from dropping, therefore modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow blowing cold air from the street. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas furnaces, since such schemes require a large amount of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of ventilation and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, attic and the entire roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or soffits - this largely depends on the version of the roof and the materials of its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally mounted, which makes it possible to achieve ventilation between the layer of thermal insulation material and other layers of the roofing cake. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensation in the bath.

But for the best drying of the floors, a volley ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is arranged. Such options should be envisaged even at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, lay a rough floor and pour concrete at an angle, then lay the boards so that there are small gaps between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all bath rooms need ventilation: a steam room, a sink, a rest room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, it is necessary to select in advance such a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bath and the conditions of its operation.

Experienced builders do not advise to carry out complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar techniques that may be suitable for each individual case. Here, the statement that the simpler the better is 100% true, and in terms of its cost, this option will be much cheaper.

The ventilation principle is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, in such rooms, 2 windows are cut out: one of them is responsible for the supply of fresh outside air, and the second allows the overheated and humid outside to escape. On how these windows are located in relation to each other, it largely depends on which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the firebox will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths, instead of a single outlet, two are cut out, which makes it possible to redirect heat fluxes in the desired direction.

Of fundamental importance are the dimensions of the windows, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the clearance. To do this, special latches are fixed on them, allowing you to cover any open slots.

It is very important to make the correct calculations of the window, taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, then the steam room will simply not be able to warm up to the required temperature and will have to spend more electricity. And if the windows turn out to be too small, then the intensity of the flow will be reduced and a complete oversaturation of the air with water vapor may occur.

The size and location of ventilation windows primarily affects the ingress and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from an overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, it will not be possible to completely avoid this phenomenon, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to the visitors of the steam room and the washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of the bath rooms extends the life of the steam room up to 50 years and even more. The variant of the ventilation system in each case is selected individually and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. According to the basic principle of operation, all the options for arranging ventilation developed to date are divided into natural, forced, and also combined.

Natural ventilation assumes that the change of air is carried out due to the unimpeded flow of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of paired rooms and the removal of waste through special holes.

Forced the system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed on the hood and much less often on the inflow. Usually, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

Combined option, as the name suggests, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, the most widespread is "bastu". It involves the formation of a small hole with an adjustable valve, which works on the inflow and is usually located behind or under the furnace.

As additional elements above the stove, vents are equipped, which are controlled by a valve and a valve - it is through them that air enters from the outside through the vents from the underground. Usually, the opening of such a box remains closed for a certain period, however, as soon as there is a need to reduce the humidity level in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal, if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is not suitable in every case, therefore, in some situations, the installation of an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the lower part of the box. If you install it in the inlet behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist superheated air is removed from the steam room through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air is supplied through vents in the floor under the firebox. From the outside of the building, such openings are connected to each other by a special ventilation duct. Less often, an exhaust hood is installed in baths, in which there is only one channel for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are equipped at the same height from the floor level: one is located behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unfortunate method involves the arrangement of both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air penetrating from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, bumps into the feet of the soaring ones. Thus, a draft is created, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from being in the steam room. Nevertheless, such an arrangement is also quite common when there is no technical possibility to make holes from different sides of the room.

Materials (edit)

The choice of ventilation system for a bath is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bath is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bath has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be taken especially carefully to prevent waterlogging and decay of the wall.

The ventilation system in the baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must include a fan, which will contribute to the effective drying of the wall. The ventilation of the bath can be connected to the elements of general ventilation at the house, or it can go outside on its own. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are equipped directly in the walls, and later taken out to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional air vents are mounted in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of buildings using the frame method is such that the walls in them are covered with a large number of heat-insulating layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, the creation of two channels is used: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for the inflow, and the second serves to remove the exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with dampers.

In the baths built of gas blocks and foam blocks, in connection with the individual characteristics of the material, galvanized air ducts are equipped. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, having previously given them the necessary configuration and reliably sealing the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way is to arrange ventilation in a classic Russian log sauna. It makes sense to equip a natural extraction system here. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the lower edge, and windows are provided in all rooms of the bath, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem often arises of creating optimal proportions between the air entering from the outside and leaving the air. In order to prevent drafts and not to “heat the street”, experts recommend that you additionally insulate the bath well and equip small holes with special valves inside the heat-insulating material, which serve for the flow in and out.

In buildings made of wood, the method of volley ventilation is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, therefore any natural hood is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned even at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to understand exactly how many bathers will take bath procedures. If the bathhouse is being built for a small family, then you can simply arrange a small inlet near the stove and an exhaust outlet under the ceiling, and if the structure is focused on a large company, then you should give preference to forced options.

How to make it yourself?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to correctly equip the ventilation system. It is possible to carry out it in the bath both on your own and with the assistance of specialists. This will require a project of work, materials and tools, as well as a little effort and time.

What do you need?

Preparation is required for the installation of ventilation ducts in the bath. The work will need components:

several ventilation valves;
gate valve;
metal grill;
mosquito net;
ventilation box;
corrugated air duct;
hygrometer;
fan;

thermometer;
metallized scotch tape;
clamp;
mounting foam;
sealant;
fasteners;
decorative overlays for facing inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in a variety of colors and textures, so getting the best option will not be a problem. Ventilation valves are installed on the exhaust and supply openings. They can differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Gate valves are used to quickly open or close openings. They are made from a wide variety of materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and fixation strength, they are in no way inferior to store options.

A lattice with a grid, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier in the way of insects and rodents, whose presence is highly undesirable either at home or in the bath. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is fixed from the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for aerated concrete buildings. Some people make a box on their own using corrugated pipes. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for steam rooms, as most types of plastics begin to deform when exposed to high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used both for the supply and for the outlet of the exhaust air. It is optimal if it works in a room only in a general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially made for Finnish saunas and baths. Thermo and hygrometer are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its performance, open the supply tap or start the hood.

Layout during the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the stage of building design. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances of installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid during the construction phase of the bath, it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. The adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after the decoration of the complex has been completed.

All ventilation openings usually have the same size, while if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case is it the other way around. The formation of an exhaust hole with a diameter lower than that of the supply one is strictly not allowed, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

Of course, the system must be provided with dampers and dampers, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow you to close the holes with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable dampers are also important because the air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the season. In winter, when negative temperatures prevail outside the window, cold air masses penetrate more intensively into the bathhouse, which is why in the autumn-winter period the windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the influx of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross-section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. Conventionally, a standard has been adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are performed with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too much ventilated, or vice versa.

Even at the design stage of the bath, it should be remembered that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required heating areas. The exhaust openings should be located slightly below the ceiling. This is due to the fact that warm air rises upward. If there is an outlet for overheated air flows in the system, then they are effectively removed outside, and if the holes are located low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the general microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, ventilation of the floor should be provided, since with constant contact with water, wooden surfaces lose their performance after 3-5 years, therefore there are important requirements for a ventilated floor:

to form the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter in size between the boards;
the finishing floor must be laid without fail above the level of the blower, which contributes to the fact that the oven begins to work as an additional hood;
after taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries out.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to arrange ventilation here, since there is no direct contact with water in such a room. As a rule, a combined or natural ventilation method is formed here, when cool air enters through the supply duct, and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it gets under the action of a fan.

In addition, it is allowed to install ventilators here, which may require connecting to an electric current and going outside. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air exchange here is carried out using an electric motor.

We organize a hood in an already built bath

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bath was heated - in black or white, it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct vaping, therefore, open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid even at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip an exhaust hood in an already built building.

To do this, you need to punch holes right in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is punched in the area of the furnace blowing, and the second - near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bathhouse is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete and even more so of brick, then it will be much more problematic to form holes and equip the hood, since in the process of such work it is possible to break the integrity of the walls in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bath as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not do ventilation yourself in the baths that are already in use. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles of creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bath and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be observed regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two holes. One is used for the inflow, the second for the removal of air masses. If you plan in advance a hood in a bathhouse under construction, you can avoid serious problems with the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause disturbances in air exchange in the steam area.

It is absolutely unacceptable that the installed ventilation creates the following problems:

It is necessary to speak separately about ventilation of the bath, and it is necessary to prepare for the creation of correct air circulation inside in advance. Oxygen change is needed like water for a fish, if compared in these allegories, and the general well-being of the bather and the value of the process itself depend on how correctly the ventilation system is built.

The circulation of fresh air provides an influx of new energy in the bath, everyone who is inside will feel better, and the smell of sweat will not be "heard". Therefore, there is simply no doubt about the need to create at least natural ventilation.

What is sauna ventilation?

Immediately it is necessary to remove the question of the need for forced air ventilation. For these purposes, expensive equipment is usually used, forcing air into the room. But their use is not always justified, especially in small baths. Firstly, not everyone will be able to mount this type of ventilation, and secondly, they are not needed in a small country bath. They are used in saunas or in the construction of brick, multi-storey baths, when natural ventilation is simply not enough to refresh the air. Tunnels for air lines are laid in advance, and after the end of construction, related equipment is connected.

In a small country bath, even if it is made of brick, natural ventilation is quite enough, but only built according to the rules. Things are simpler in wooden baths. For example, in a frame building or a bath from a bar, fresh air, albeit in small quantities, will flow through the interconnections. And wood is a natural material and it "breathes" passing oxygen through itself. In general, when building a small bath, natural ventilation is created by itself. But it still needs some minor tweaks to help change oxygen a bit.

How to provide additional air access?

Natural mechanisms act as reminiscent elements of ventilation: windows and doors. In some cases, it is enough to open them a little to ventilate the room. But this is not always convenient, and it is better to act more rationally by providing constant, controlled air supply. For this, special holes (air vents) with floating valves are made in the walls. They are placed in the lower or upper part near the stove in the steam room.

But by no means in the middle. With air circulation, and the constant change of steam from hot to cold, it tends to move from bottom to top, where it will go out into the street through organized vents. Additionally, they are equipped with latches so that, if necessary, you can fully open the window for ventilation or adjust the air change by slightly closing the hole.

But this is an incomplete system. On the opposite wall, make an extractor hood. This is a hole that must be kept open at all times. It is slightly smaller in size. The height of the exhaust outlet is approximately 30–40 cm from the floor. The exit of this window can be done in the washing compartment so that it warms up faster.

Of course, a large number of holes do not fit into the design very original, and usually, the door in the steam room works for the hood. That is, one air vent is also made on the wall, and instead of an exhaust hole, the structure is working. Initially, the door to the steam room is made 5-10 cm smaller so that there is an outlet for air below. Thus, the outflow of hot steam will be ensured, the washing room will be warmed up and the overall design of the steam room will not be disturbed. This is the simplest of the options for natural air ventilation, which works according to the law of physics.

There is a small clarification in this scheme. The larger the steam room, the larger the diameter of the air must be made. To calculate the size, there are certain norms: when subtracting the total area, about 20-25 cm / 2 of the ventilation area is taken for each cubic meter. Knowing these norms, it will not be difficult to calculate the size of the air duct. It is recommended to renew the air in the steam room 5-7 times in one hour, or as needed if you feel the heaviness of breathing.

Ventilation of the wash compartment floor

Here, the air can be renewed by opening a window, and the floor requires special ventilation, due to the constant drainage of water through it. This process, without natural ventilation, will lead to rapid decay of wood or delamination of concrete. To reduce negative factors, small air vents are also made at floor level. The outlet is carried out by opening a window, a window or, if an external oven is installed, the operation of the ventilation pipe will give air movement. You can consider the option of installing a riser from an asbestos-cement pipe. She is taken out through the walls, over the roof of the bathhouse.

Common mistakes in ventilation design

The basic concepts of natural ventilation are clear. There is nothing difficult in the organization, it remains to talk about what cannot be done in this work.

Many, without fully understanding the process of creating a hood, make a lot of stupid mistakes. For example, it is impossible in a steam room to have the supply and exhaust openings on the same level. This will create a vicious circle for hot air, and the floor will be constantly cool. Uninformed people begin to sin that the owner did the wrong floor in the bathhouse, and some believe this, and begin to look for the reason, disassembling the coverings and laying additional materials for insulation. And the problem in the end lies only in the wrong arrangement of the vents.

More about the location. Some confuse fume hood a hole with a supply. And when creating ventilation, placing the first under the ceiling, and the second below. It will work, of course, but it will take more time to warm up the steam room. If such an arrangement is made, then the latches should be on both windows.

That's all the tricks. Pay close attention to creating natural ventilation, and you will have easy steam.

Ventilation in the bath is an obligatory structural element. Without a full air exchange and fresh air flow, even the highest quality wooden building is capable of completely deteriorating in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, bathers will have to enjoy such "delights" as dampness, unpleasant smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of the ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. This is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the "Russian bath" mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, in contrast to the forced analogue, does not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some saunas, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to a suitable design of the steam room.

How does the natural ventilation system work?

Natural ventilation is activated by air convection, which occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, heated air in a room always rises up, and cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in the bath is to provide an influx of fresh air (cold) and displace exhaust (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the inlet is usually located below the exhaust. Then warm air, rising upward, comes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (low pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually, it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Air vents, vents, stove chimney can be used as hoods in a bath with natural ventilation. The air inflow is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in chopped baths), ajar doors, ventilation openings. Both supply and exhaust openings (air vents, vents) are equipped with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps to control air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Volley ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths, volley ventilation is common. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures, or between visits to the steam room. Volley ventilation contributes to a quick change of air, drying of the surfaces of the steam room.

With volley ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is played by a door and a window, located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after vaping (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on the direction in which the pressure drop is directed, the air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of the salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room without cooling the walls. Therefore, the airing time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option # 2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove with a chimney can be the driving force behind ventilation. When the fuel burns, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace blower and exits through the chimney. In order for the flow of fresh air to be carried out, a gap of about 5-10 mm is made at the bottom of the door. Or they do not close it tightly during the procedures. In log baths, when a fire burns in a stove, air from the street is drawn in through the loosely fitted lower crowns.

Ventilation by means of air outflow through the chimney is only possible when maintaining a fire in the stove. If the fuel combustion does not persist during vaping (for example, in "smoke" saunas or in a stove for short-term operation), the air change will not be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option # 3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange carried out through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during vaping (ideally 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

An exhaust outlet is usually arranged under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It has dimensions of 15-20 cm, it can be square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding flap (door), with which you can change the dimensions of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

It is undesirable to place ventilation openings at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This excludes full air circulation, but leads to the formation of a draft.
The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be bigger. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downward, new clean air will not enter the bath.
If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply outlet. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.

For the inflow of clean air in the steam room, an inlet is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove, so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the steam zone already warm. The inlet is closed with a ventilation grill so that air is drawn into the room in separate streams, and not in a continuous stream.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The classic workflow is as follows:

Two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm are made in the walls of the bath. It is advisable to form air vents at the construction stage so that later you do not have to carve them into the finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes made of planks.
A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet opening, and a valve on the exhaust outlet. If one of the holes faces the street, an insect screen is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of duct scheme you have chosen.

The advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

simple device and easy installation;
low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending for electricity;
reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically "eternal", not subject to breakdowns and not requiring repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

the dependence of the strength of ventilation on the temperature difference in the steam room and outside;
in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the inlets reduces the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
smells from the street.

Agree, the disadvantages are insignificant. In a small bathhouse on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no pools and large sinks inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If, for some reason, natural ventilation does not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can transform it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just put fans on the holes!

The presence of ventilation is a prerequisite for a comfortable presence in the bath. For the intake of fresh air and the removal of the waste air, ordinary ventilation is most often performed - they open the vents, doors, air vents. This ventilation is called natural ventilation. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large saunas with a washing compartment (pool), forced ventilation is more effective to eliminate unpleasant odors, quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate.

3 Methods of organization and ready-made schemes
- 3.1 Scheme # 1. Exhaust ventilation
- 3.2 Scheme # 2. Forced ventilation
- 3.3 Scheme # 3. Supply and exhaust ventilation
4 Some mounting features

The principle of operation of such a system

Any ventilation system consists of at least two openings. One of them is supply air, the other is extract air. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through the inlet, mixes with warm "local" air. The distribution of the warm flow throughout the room is carried out. In this case, the exhaust air is repelled to the exhaust hole and is removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bath.

If natural reasons for the circulation of air flows are not enough, a forced ventilation system is arranged. Its essence is that fans - supply or exhaust - are installed on one or both ventilation openings. They provide forced air movement. The supply fan draws in fresh air from the outside with its blades, and the exhaust fan, on the contrary, pushes out the used air.

Often, grilles (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on the ventilation ducts, with the help of which the size of the hole and the intensity of the circulation of air flows are changed.

If the inlet opening is less open than the outlet opening, ventilation is increased. If the air speed reaches 0.3 m / s, there is a feeling of a draft. This should not be allowed. Ideally, the air movement should be smooth, slow, which means that the ventilation holes should open in about the same way.

Types of forced ventilation

There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):

exhaust;
supply;
supply and exhaust.

Let's talk in more detail about each.

Exhaust ventilation

The exhaust ventilation design includes an exhaust fan. It is installed on the exhaust outlet of the ventilation system. There is also an inlet in this type of system. Usually these are air vents with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the inflow of fresh outside air.

Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washing rooms, rooms with a swimming pool, bathrooms, baths.

The exhaust ventilation device is simple. Usually it includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is installed not to remove used air, but to inflow fresh air from the street.

When the supply system is operating, the pressure in the room increases, respectively, the exhaust air is drawn through the exhaust vents, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, walls.

Supply fans work to draw in cool (and in winter - cold!) Outdoor air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to purify the supply air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

It is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply and mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be supplied with recuperators, filters, and sound attenuators. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation completely mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.

The design of the supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complicated. It is very important at the design stage to calculate the air exchange in the bath room. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is the ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately violated to create air currents of the desired direction. For example, if the bath has a bathroom, then to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, a low pressure is artificially created in it. By installing a high-performance hood. After that, the air from the higher pressure room will be independently directed to the lower pressure zone. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.

Organization methods and ready-made schemes

Let's consider several ready-made schemes for performing forced ventilation.

Scheme # 1. Exhaust ventilation

Behind the stove, 0.3 m from the floor, an air inlet is installed. The exhaust fan is equipped on the opposite wall, slightly higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, entering the steam room through the inlet, passes through the oven, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling down, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change in air flows.

Scheme # 2. Forced ventilation

In a large steam room for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip supply ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are not directed from bottom to top, as with natural ventilation, but from top to bottom. An inlet with a fan is installed behind the furnace, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed in the lower part of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.

Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. With the help of a fan, cold air is blown into the steam room through the inlet. Once in the zone of the oven, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. The colder streams are forced down and out through the exhaust port.

Scheme # 3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

This scheme is intended for ventilation equipment in a steam room and shower. The air inlet with a fan is placed above the stove. The minimum distance from the stove is 50 cm. The air outlet (without fan) is made on an adjacent wall next to the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust air duct must be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply air duct.

Another exhaust outlet with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through a crack under the door.

Some mounting features

After choosing a ventilation scheme, it's time to move on to its installation. This will require the following devices and materials:

Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with the ability to regulate the speed are suitable for the bath. According to the method of installation, they can be ducted or radial. Ducted ones are placed directly in the duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
Ventilation box. Can be solid - plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form of a corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
Ventilation grates. The material of manufacture is according to your preference.

The ventilation system is installed according to the following plan:

According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is advisable that they be planned at the stage of the construction of the bath.
Ventilation ducts are installed in the holes.
An exhaust or supply fan is mounted (in the box or outside the hole).
Connect the fan to the electricity network. The connection diagram will depend on the desired way of turning on the fan. The fan can be turned on in the following ways: simultaneously with lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Switching off can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the lights are turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation openings.

Here is an example of installing a fan:

Competent installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the sauna premises. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in the washrooms and bathrooms, ensure “easy breathing” in the steam room, and protect yourself from being hit by carbon monoxide.

Natural ventilation in the bath: device options, pros and cons

Natural ventilation in a Russian bath is as necessary as air for a fish. Imagine that you are sitting in a steam room, giving water to the stove, it seems like it becomes good, the body burns, a pleasant tingling is felt, and it becomes more and more difficult to breathe. It seems that I still want to warm up, but the body cannot cope with such loads without oxygen.

Today there are a lot of proposals for installing forced ventilation.

But this is superfluous for a small bath, where natural ventilation will also cope with this task. It should be noted that this is not only the creation of coziness and comfort for staying in the bath, but also additional support for the decoration. After all, the air entering from the outside dries the inner lining of the walls in the bath, preserving the structure and appearance, protecting it from the manifestation of putrefactive deposits and an unpleasant odor. According to these factors, there is simply no alternative to natural ventilation in the bath.

How natural ventilation works

During installation, all possible plans for the passage of the inlet openings and the gradual movement of air are worked out, the access of which should not affect the internal microclimate in the bath room. Normal should be not only temperature, but also air pressure.

The correct location and operation of ventilation will allow you to keep the interior trim in tidy condition for as long as possible. The execution process itself is simple, the main thing is to delve into it and rationally arrange all the conductive pipes and air ducts inside the wall blocks and bring them inside the room, so that rarefaction of the air is not created. Unlike forced ventilation in a bath, you do not need to purchase any expensive systems and mechanisms. Everything is done literally from an improvised tool.

Natural ventilation will work if there is a temperature difference inside the bath and outside. That is, when the interior is warmed up. According to the law of physics, which raises warm air to the ceiling, the task of natural ventilation is to displace the latter into the street and the flow of fresh air from there. Accordingly, the outlets are positioned as high as possible. When heated, the air itself finds the supply valve and rushes out. At the same time, a rarefied pressure is created inside the room, due to which fresh air takes the place of hot

pair. Then it gradually warms up and comes out again. A kind of circulation of hot and cold air. Thanks to this convection, a continuous process of natural ventilation of the air is created.

Contributing to the injection, the accompanying elements of the bath, which are mandatory structures. These are vents, air vents in the underground. A chimney in the wall plays a significant role in ventilation. In chopped buildings, the crowns of logs promote circulation; in addition, you can open windows and vents for a while to increase the air flow. On all openings equipped with closing-opening mechanisms, grilles and gates are installed that control the opening level in order to regulate the air flow.

Three device options

Each of the types is good in its own way and applicable in certain conditions. They all differ in functionality and have some operating restrictions.

Volley ventilation

It is carried out by temporarily opening door and window openings, vents or vents. This method is widespread in Russian baths. When it is organized, there is a one-time and quick change of air in the room. In tandem, an open door and a window on the opposite wall usually work at the same time. It is used as an option for changing the air between bath procedures. Volley ventilation is the only inexpensive option for ventilating baths made of timber or other types of wood. After washing, usually leave everything open to dry the interior.

Organization of chimney outflow

Here the role of the savior of the interior is taken over by the heater. During the heating process, the hot air rising to the ceiling is drawn into the blower and discharged outside through the chimney. The mode change is made due to the gap left in all doors. In order not to cool the room, this distance should not exceed 10 cm. Also, you can leave the door ajar a little if you need to let in more fresh air.

In log structures, furnace ventilation is created due to the slots in the crowns. Such a system will work only during the operation of the furnace, when the fuel is burning. This method is not very successful, therefore, if it is necessary to urgently ventilate the room, a salvo option is used.

Ventilation through vents

The best option, carried out by removing the air ducts through the basement of the bath or the basement level. For one wash in an hour and a half, the air is renewed at least 6 times. With the correct planning of ventilation through the vents, washing will be as comfortable as possible. There is no need to open the doors to create a more favorable atmosphere, and the bather will be busy only with his own business.

But here you need the right layout and choice of materials. Exhaust openings are made of a plastic pipe with a diameter of no more than 20 cm. The forms are not regulated, it can be an oval or a square. To regulate the air flow through them, it is necessary to install sliding dampers. When washing them

open halfway, and for ventilation after procedures, you can open it completely.

Advantages of supply structures

Each of the options presented has its pros and cons, and the owner has the right to independently choose which one he likes, guided by the type of structure and the presence or absence of window structures in the bath. But if we summarize natural ventilation, then the following points can be distinguished as positive qualities:

the simplest options in terms of arranging yourself;
no need to purchase additional devices and lay electrical wiring to connect fans;
durability due to the lack of mechanical elements.

It is impossible not to mention the cons

Not a single mechanism is immune from these factors, and the first thing that can be distinguished is a natural factor. The fact is that a comfortable temperature difference can be ensured only with a strong ratio of the air level inside and outside. Simply put, in hot weather, until the air in the steam room warms up to the maximum level, natural circulation will simply not be felt.

In the autumn-winter period, with a relative temperature difference, even if the sauna stove is not working, there will be cold air inside the room and it will take more time to warm up the washing compartment. We'll have to close the vents for a while. In addition, with natural circulation, you are not immune to odors coming from outside.

Significant disadvantages, but given that virtually no money is spent on the organization of ventilation, you can close your eyes and regulate the air flow by opening and closing the dampers. And if you do not plan to make a pool, then it is simply inappropriate to overpay for the installation of a forced system.

Correct ventilation of the bath is the key to a healthy, beneficial procedure

Everyone knows how important it is to maintain optimal humidity and temperature in the steam room. But in addition to these fundamental characteristics, there is another condition on which our health and the longevity of the structure itself depend - a well-thought-out ventilation of the bath.

It would seem a paradox ׃ in order to achieve the desired temperature regime, you have to carefully insulate and warm up the room, and then take it and voluntarily let cold air from the street into such a protected "warm" zone. How to make sure that the ventilation device in the bath does not spoil its "fragile" microclimate?

Let's take a closer look at all the nuances of this issue and find out the exact "recipe" for the correct air exchange in the steam room. But first, we have prepared for our readers a "vaccination against carelessness" - a story about what will happen if the ventilation of the steam room in the bath is not adjusted properly.

How much will ventilation defects cost to the owner of the bath?

Skeptics may argue, they say, our ancestors built long-lasting "steam room huts" and calmly dispensed with modern ventilation subtleties. Indeed, the ventilation in the Russian bathhouse worked due to the free fastening of the lower rims of the logs, through which fresh air entered the room. The outflow of the mine was carried out through a window, ajar doors (for a black firebox) or through a chimney with a constantly operating stove (for a white firebox).

But modern structures are aimed at the rational use of energy resources and are more complex in their design, therefore, their "air handling" must be appropriate. What awaits the bathhouse with a negligent attitude towards its timely and constant "wind blowing"?

FAST BATH WEAR

Heat, steam and a sharp drop in temperature are factors that have a truly destructive force, capable of undermining the "health" of any building material. To mitigate this aggression, the structure requires the adoption of maximum protective measures, which include the bath ventilation system.

Wood is the main building material for finishing the steam room; in such harsh operating conditions, it can last no more than 20 years. But even this average durability indicator is not so easy to achieve without intensive air exchange in the premises. With an insufficient level of fresh air flow, after 5-6 years of operation of the bath, its owner will be forced to replace the entire lining of the steam room. And this is the floor, panels, ceiling and, quite possibly, their warm "puff" will be damaged during dismantling. As a result of the renovation work, the bath owner's wallet will "lose weight" by a substantial amount.

UNPLEASANT BATH ODOR

Due to the lack of fresh air in the steam room, the wood paneling will begin to "age" intensively and, even before retirement, will delight you with a pungent and unpleasant odor. "Aroma" will take over the room so strongly that it will become the hallmark of your bath. You cannot get rid of it, because any aggressive chemistry in this structure is strictly prohibited.

Do not think that only a tree is waiting for such a sad fate. Any building material during the period of "decay" will not please the owner of the building with a pleasant smell. Everyone knows the no less sugary "aroma" of dampness and mustiness that "lives" in brick structures.

HARMFUL BATH AIR

Heat and steam cause intense perspiration in humans. Some of the decomposition products evaporate and add to the atmosphere of the room. It turns out that over time, the air in the steam room will simply be poisoned by substances that we are so eager to get rid of with the help of this therapeutic procedure (slags, toxins). Our lungs, instead of the healing air "portion", will receive a dirty "pile". Naturally, there can be no question of any health-improving effect from relaxing in a stuffy steam room. Moreover, the harmful "cocktail" will be intensified by spores of fungus and mold, which will inevitably appear on the walls, ceiling and floor of the room, deprived of proper air exchange.

Among the most important indicators of the Russian bath, the temperature and humidity level of the air are traditionally called, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, being in a steam room with musty air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it correctly.

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, first, let us clarify why ventilation in the steam room is necessary at all. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the absence of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for steam rooms

There are three types of ventilation in the steam room:

natural;
mechanical;
combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is ensured by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and outside. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath, and this creates conditions for drawing in new air through the inlet. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here you need to take into account one nuance: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Steam room ventilation scheme

Mechanical ventilation functions by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows to the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, since it will not withstand the harsh conditions of a steam room - here it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate inlet.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.

The inlet is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust outlet is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
The inlet is behind the heating device at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the exhaust outlet is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out by means of a fan. The main feature of the circuit is a very high heating rate of fresh air.

Bath ventilation systems

Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are located on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan that is mounted in an exhaust outlet.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with internal placement of the steam room - when the room has only one external side.

The inlet is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust hole - instead, a special flowing floor is provided: the spent air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - rapid drying of the floor.
The inlet opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heating device works continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is advisable to make all the holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to timely make all the necessary edits to the work plan.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust outlet should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the inlet opening. In any case, the "outlet" should not be less than the "inlet", otherwise it will be impossible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two "exits" in one room.

Install a valve to block air flow during cold seasons

Thirdly, in order to regulate the air flow in the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special dampers or shutters. They will be useful to you in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively strive into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross-section of the ventilation hole should correspond to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cubic meter. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the room air will not be able to quickly renew itself.

Of course, organizing ventilation in a bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you adhere to them unswervingly, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Bath ventilation: video

The old days, in which people did not care what kind of bath they were in, are over. Nowadays, it is important that this room performs its functions efficiently and correctly. An important point is the ventilation in the bath. This applies to both the floor and the entire steam room. It has been proven that the well-known healing effect that can be obtained from all procedures in the bath is impossible if ventilation is not arranged. Moreover, ventilation is important in all rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a changing room and a rest room.

It's important to remember that this isn't just a whim - it's a necessity. After all, it is about your health, as well as the health of your family. How can you make ventilation in the bath? Is there a specific scheme? How to make the floor ventilation in the bath? You will learn all this further.

What is the correct layout of the ventilation device

What is ventilation in general? Simply put, ventilation is the exchange of air in a room. It's no secret that the product of human exhalation is carbon dioxide. If the room is not ventilated, that is, fresh air is not supplied to it, then it will be filled with this gas. At this time, there will be little oxygen in it. Then the atmosphere becomes "stale", it is hard and unpleasant for you to breathe. The consequences of this phenomenon are many, up to severe headaches.

That is why it is important to ventilate the room, be it in a house or a bath. The ventilation system functions quite simply:

Holes are made in the bath (intake vents) through which fresh air enters it. Most often, these holes are at the bottom.
When it mixes with the atmosphere in the room, which is much warmer due to the operation of the stove, then there is a distribution of air flow throughout the bath.
From above, other vents are made through which the exhaust or "stale" air leaves the room.

Note! The ventilation outlet must be larger than the inlet. Otherwise, fresh air from the outside will not come in.

This is how the ventilation of any bath is arranged. It is important to ensure good air exchange for a pleasant and comfortable stay. It is important to take into account several points:

exhaust vents should not be done in the ceiling, since the room will cool very quickly;
the dimensions of all ventilation openings are selected taking into account the size of the room (for 1 m 3 you need 25 cm 2);
it is imperative to make valves on the holes, thanks to which you can regulate the flow.

Correctly performed air exchange should constantly provide the room with fresh air in order to enhance the health benefits of vaping. In addition, due to it, after all procedures, the room can dry out quickly. Since we are talking about a wooden bath, moisture can harm the material. If ventilation is done correctly, then the following consequences can be avoided:

Decrease in temperature due to the intake of cold air from the outside.
Negative influence on the distribution of heat fluxes.
Removing hot and humid air from the steam room, in which there is no carbon dioxide.

But, there may be more than one ventilation scheme. There are several of them.

Types of ventilation in the bath

Depending on the device, the ventilation of the premises may be different. There are 3 main types of it:

Natural.
Mechanical.
Combined.

The natural ventilation pattern is the one we discussed above. Everything happens naturally, due to the temperature difference, according to the principle of convection. In addition, this includes the effect of wind pressure through cracks in the wall, openings of windows and doors.

If we talk about a mechanical system, then all the work is performed by special devices (fans) that draw out the exhaust air and fill the bath with fresh. Accordingly, a combined system is a combination of these two types together to enhance the effect.

Advice! It is especially important to ventilate the floor and baths for those who have stoves operating on gas or liquid and solid fuels. To maintain the combustion process, these units take oxygen from the bath.

Do I need to ventilate the floor

Why is it so important to make ventilation under the bath floor? The thing is that it promotes air exchange in all sections. Most often, wood is used to make the floor in the bath. Since it will constantly interact with water, it must be removed. If you do not dry the floor, then after 5 years it will simply become unusable. And no one wants this. What methods can be used to make the floor ventilation in the bath? Is there a specific pattern?

Yes, here's what you need to do to ensure proper ventilation of the base:

But in order for the floor ventilation system in the bath to function as it should, it is necessary to provide a full range of ventilation. Let's find out how you can naturally ventilate the bath.

Arrangement of ventilation in a natural way

Why are we considering this kind? Because it does not require a lot of investment and is quite effective. To do everything right, you need to take into account some points and rules. So that you understand how such a scheme is made, take a look at the photo below.

Let's start by placing the holes through which outside air will flow. They should be located at the bottom of the steam room, next to the stove. For what? So that it warms up and does not cool the room. Then more fuel will be needed to heat it. In addition, vents do not need to be made with dampers, they must be constantly open.

The second exhaust hole must be placed on the opposite wall or diagonally. It is important that it is larger than the lower one. What for? For normal functioning. As for the placement, we said that it should not be done on the ceiling. Step back 30 or 40 cm and make it in the wall. But in this exhaust hole you can mount an adjustable valve, which you can buy in the store. The air that will be drawn from the steam room can be directed into the dressing room, saving on heating it. This is an option. In another case, it is taken out to the roof through a pipe system.