How to build a stove in a house. Not in cramped quarters and not offended: a small brick oven will warm up the whole house and will not take up much space

Heating a house in winter with stove heating is suitable for those who have a country house. This heating method is not very suitable for apartments. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to fold the stove with your own hands, but after carefully studying the layouts of brick stoves, it is possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this business - a stove-maker. He will tell you what kind of masonry is suitable in a particular case.

The main types and device of brick ovens

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron plate;
3. Clean door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. Blower door.

There are two main types of brick ovens:

Heating stoves. The scheme of the brickwork of the heating stove is very simple, which is why the installation does not take much time. They are intended only for heating the room.
The most widespread and demanded type of furnaces is heating and cooking. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for brickwork stoves. The main structural elements of any furnace are:

Toplivnik- where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The dimensions of the firebox depend on the type of fuel used. For its laying, only refractory bricks are used, since it is in direct contact with fire.
Chimney- designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have a lot of bends, if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room heats up.
Ash pan or blower chamber Is also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash accumulates in the ash pan - a product of burning wood and coal. Air enters the firebox through the blower, as a result of which the draft improves, and therefore the quality of heating the dwelling. The ash pan chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy ash cleaning.

The design of a heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence of a hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: features of masonry

Brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such ovens directly depend on the dimensions of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of the sauna stove is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the oven, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. The order of laying stoves with your own hands should be agreed with a professional, because for sauna stoves, safety, first of all

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - backfill from boulders (heater), 5 - latch, 6 - door for giving, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (plank, log) on waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the device of sauna stoves.:

A firebox in a sauna stove is definitely needed in a large size. The blower door and it itself must be large in order to ensure a good flow of air into the firebox.
The grates should be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But due to the problematic nature of purchasing long grates, most often you have to buy small grates and lay them across.
If flammable structures in the bathhouse are not protected by refractory materials, the distance from them to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
If the stove is located above the firebox, the height of the stove should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
Before laying a brick bath stove on a mortar, it is better to lay out the rows first dry. And only after leveling them, use a masonry mixture.
The horizontality and verticality of the masonry can be checked with a level. If there are minimal deviations in the masonry, they need to be corrected.
All doors must be properly secured. For this, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
Where the flue pipe passes through the ceiling or wall, there must be a fireproof insulation.
When mixing the masonry mixture, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

A distinctive feature of the design of a square furnace with a bottom heating is that the height of the fuel compartment is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two cavities are symmetrically located for exhausting gases into chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the stove. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise upward, where the upper dome is formed from the cavities, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper section of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and the cooled fuel combustion products are removed through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. Then they are taken out into the street.

Any kind of coal and wood can be used to heat the room with the stove of this device. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the furnace must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The scheme of laying a furnace with a bottom heating consists of 3 hoods: an upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo.

A feature of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no gas turnover in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not with the help of traction. Heavy cold gases go down, and heated light ones go up.

The design of this oven consists of two parts.:

The upper chamber, in which there is no smoke circulation. It looks like an upside-down glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called channelless and bell-type.
The lower section is a firebox, in the ceiling of which there is a hole (hailo) for the outlet of smoke and gases to the upper section.

The heated flue gases do not move from the high to the chimney, they reach the ceiling, and after they have cooled down, they go down to the base of the firebox. From there, they will enter the chimney and be discharged outside.

The brickwork of this oven with your own hands is quite simple. The advantage of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it cools down for a long time and uses 80% of the heat generated by the fuel during combustion.

For a furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and hard coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the gaps between the buttresses are clogged with soot. Cleaning the soot is a rather complicated process, because it is difficult to reach all the cracks through the cleaning doors.

Bunk oven for home: masonry and features

Layout diagram of a bunk oven for a home. Typical.

A bunk oven is essentially two identical ovens, one above the other. To facilitate the construction and save materials, layouts with empty chambers are made between the ovens. The masonry, filling the gap between the two structures, serves as the basis for the top.

The chimney pipe of the stove, which is located at the bottom, passes through the upper one, so its heating area is slightly smaller. The chimney of the upper stove is brought out separately. Laying a bunk oven is quite simple to perform. Doors for cleaning the furnaces from soot are located: in the back - in the lower, and in the side wall - in the upper structure. It is best to use anthracite or hard coal as fuel.

When overlapping the upper part of empty chambers, a reinforced concrete slab is often used. Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Bricklaying for the stove must be done very carefully. Indeed, in the event of a malfunction, the repair will be difficult.

The bunk stove is ideal for a two-story country house. For its construction, you can use furnace schemes, which are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instruction for laying a bunk oven

What is better to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying stoves: a - mrlotok-pick;
b - oven hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - wet brush; g - pliers;
h - cycle; and - stukalets; k - scribe; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb line; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - jointing

For laying furnaces, in most cases, fire-resistant fireclay bricks are used. Its main advantage over the rest of the brick is that, although it heats up for a long time, it keeps heat for a very long time. This allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If the brick is burnt too much, its refractoriness and quality will decrease. This brick is best used for laying out the base of the oven. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat exchange will be disrupted.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. Ceramic brick is suitable as a facing material.

Silicate bricks cannot be used for laying the structure. It does not stick to the solution, and absorbs moisture under heat loads.

Bricklaying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the stove yourself, or ask for help from a specialist.

The clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, a stove is a device that is created for many years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools that will be needed for laying a brick structure:

A trowel for laying out mortar.
Pickaxe hammer, for leveling and splitting bricks if needed.
Shovel for mixing mortar.
Grooves for smoothing convex and concave seams.
Ordering tool, to check the evenness of laying out the rows of bricks.

Basic principles of laying brick structures:

The bricks must be laid only one at a time. For the inexperienced, it is better to lay out the row without mortar and only then use the mixture.
Each brick is thoroughly cleaned of dust and chips with a brush.
For better adhesion of the solution, the ceramic brick is immersed in water for a short time.
Fireclay bricks should not be wetted with water under any circumstances!
After laying, the brick cannot be moved and tapped, therefore it must be laid in one confident movement.
If it was not possible to lay the brick right away, then it is removed and the solution is cleaned.
The solution that has been cleaned off can no longer be used.

Now more and more people make their choice in favor of stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the efficiency of this heating method. It is in the pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that all new designs of stoves are being created. The most important thing is to carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for a particular home.

The disadvantage of the furnace is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the furnace. But, by using quality materials and choosing the right circuit that suits the home, the need for constant fuel injection is greatly reduced. Another disadvantage is the inability to use the stove in the summer for cooking.

Not a single private house is complete without a traditional brick heating and cooking stove. And although today many houses are equipped with gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to give up the brick stove, as it gives a special warmth - the warmth of the hearth, filling the home with coziness and a sense of tranquility. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by acquiring firewood.

The desire to make redevelopment in the house, including the transfer of the heating and cooking stove, can often run into the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to fold the stove with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of stoves, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private houses:

Heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
Brewhouse(oven exclusively for cooking);
Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter type is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

Furnace device and its properties

After reviewing the sketches and projects of brick ovens, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to the internal structure. The design of the heating and cooking oven determines its performance and, ultimately, its service life.

The internal design of the heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the device itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in the corner or against the wall.

The main structural elements of the heating and cooking furnace:

Shants (warm air ducts);
Ash pan (or blown);
Grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
Under (slope to the grates);
Furnace chamber;
Burnout (smoke exhaust);
The arch of the furnace (separates the combustion zone from the afterburning zone in the combustion chamber);
An air vent (a hole through which heat enters the heated room);
Outer wall;
Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber with the chimney);
Overlap;
Chimney;
Indent (space between the chimney and the stove);
Smoke dampers;
Heat dissipating walls.

The heat output of the stove is determined by the amount of heat energy released by the stove per hour and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to retain heat from the burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different stoves have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its device

The Russian brick stove is installed on the foundation, since its device is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a preheater used for storing fuel, which dries up in it and easily flares up when the stove is melted. The pod is closed with a vault-trough, onto which the bedding is poured on a solution of clay. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design, which significantly differs from the traditional heating and cooking stove in the heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short time, the Russian stove accumulates heat and is able to give it away for 24 hours.

In order for the Russian stove not to consume an excessive amount of fuel, not to smoke and not to cool down in a matter of hours, when installing it, it is important to observe the exact masonry technology and dimensions that the diagram includes. The bricks that form the inner structure of the kiln are hewn and polished so that the walls inside the highl are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or bakery and a firebox (crucible). The floor of the crucible has an inclined structure, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when constructing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret hidden in Russian cuisine. After cooking, some dishes must simmer for a long time in the cooking chamber. It is not possible to achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for the preparation of Russian cuisine using a familiar hob or electric oven.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is a smoke channel of the simplest design, which in its efficiency surpasses the devices of the smoke channels of other stoves.

DIY Russian stove device (video)

Choice of design

The choice of the type of oven depends on the conditions of its operation:

Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the device of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first warmed up, then heat transfer begins.
Heating furnace. For a house in the mountains or a summer house where permanent residence is not planned, a fireplace will be enough. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up a room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up in the cold season.

The brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest structure is assembled in a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on the edge). In order to give it strength, a frame made of metal corners is used. A massive furnace requires a foundation, which should not be associated with the building support. In the case of a separate chimney, it also needs its own foundation.

Determine the size and power

The level of heat transfer of the heating and cooking stove must exactly fulfill the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and also ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace determines its power.

Furnace device. Where to begin?

The laying of any stove cannot be started without a project or drawing, which must include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the outlet of the chimney without disturbing the load-bearing elements of the structure. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The scheme or design of the future furnace is drawn up on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove on your own, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the design of the stove is approved, it is possible to prepare for its laying.

To fold the stove with your own hands, you must have on hand:

Stove-maker's hammer (trowel);
Master OK;
Building level and plumb lines;
Measuring tape;
Cement-sand mortar;
Manual power tools (hammer drill, grinder, etc.);
Red brick;
Refractory bricks (fired);
Facing brick;
Masonry mortar made of clay and sand;
Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
Furnace fittings and appliances.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry. All stages

Like any construction process, do-it-yourself stove laying is done in stages.

The scheme of this process includes the following points:

Arrangement of the foundation. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a battle. The foundation is not used for all furnace structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive furnace, you cannot do without its device.

The support of the future furnace should in no case come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and in case of distortion, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is fire hazardous.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed the overall dimensions of the furnace by at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with fired brick masonry in two rows on cement mortar to the floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the construction of the entire furnace will depend on it. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing, as a material for which you can use ordinary roofing felt or roofing material, the material is laid in two layers.

Furnace masonry. The first row is laid on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to the future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, a mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air is released. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and placed correctly on the mortar, tapping it with a trowel to level it. The excess solution is removed with a trowel.

Hello, in today's article we will describe in detail the scheme and sequence of masonry of the simplest oven I know, measuring 890x510x770 mm. If you have never dealt with the practical side of laying stoves, but want to start with something, then this stove will be suitable for these purposes in the best way, or choose one of ... If the requirements described below are met, it is not realistic to make a mistake in something this-time, the stove will have 100% good draft-two, the stove will not smoke-three. In addition, it is so small and lechka in the design that if mistakes are made (for example, a too greasy clay solution, or an incorrect calculation of the strength of the floor in the absence of a foundation, which can lead to the mobility of the furnace and further deformation), it can always be sorted out over a new one in 2-3 hours work. In general, anyone armed only with a general can practice on this stove. no practical experience.

In general, the features of this stove include low efficiency below 75%, low heat transfer of 700 kcal / hour caused by the small volume of the furnace (only 118 bricks), light weight of about 540 kg, the presence of a two-burner cast-iron stove and 1 cleaning door.

So, for laying a simple kitchen stove, we need:

solid ceramic brick grade> М100 -118 pieces;
clay-sand mortar - about 80 kg
grate grate 180x250mm-1 piece;
furnace door-250x180 mm - 1 piece;
blower and cleaning door measuring 140x130 mm each - 1 piece;
cast iron stove with 2 burners 720x410 mm or similar - 1 piece;
gate valve 130x130 mm - 1 piece;
felt, steel tape, corners as required according to the drawing.

The sequence of laying a simple brick kitchen stove

As a basis for this stove, the slab is allowed, with a strong field, to lay out 1-2 layers of a felt impregnated with a clay solution on top of a sheet of any steel, all this is fastened with self-tapping screws. A separate foundation is not required.

1st row simple solid brickwork

2nd row The same as in the 1st row, when laying, we observe the dressing of the seams parallel to the diagonal and corners.

3rd row We spread the blower and install the door 140x130 mm, fix it on the sides with 3/4 bricks.

4th row On the left side we lay out a channel of 140 mm, from which the flue gases are directed into a pipe or a heating shield. We install a cleaning door opposite the channel.

5th row Laying as well as 4th row. We close the blower door, thus a 260x260 mm hole is formed for the installation of the grate.

6th row The smoke channel is narrowed to 260x260 mm, the blower is up to 200 mm - this is slightly more than the width of the grate.

7th row We continue to narrow the smoke channel to 260x130 mm. We do everything according to the drawing; bricks in contact with the grate must be hewn out on the diagram, this is indicated by strokes, the side bricks will have to be pressed into the masonry a little closer to the grate.

8th row We get the size of the firebox 520x260 mm. We install the furnace door

9th and 10th rows In accordance with the order, we observe the dressing of the seams.

11th row Install the cast iron pit on a weak earthen solution. For greater strength, we tie the brick around the perimeter with a frame from a corner measuring 30x30x4 mm

At the end, we remove the remnants of the clay solution (snot) through the cleaning door, and dry it with the doors open for 1-2 weeks after which we are present at the firebox, first with a partial one (torch, birch bark) and then with a full one. We also advise you to familiarize yourself with the drawings and others. and .

If in the process of reading you have any questions, write in the comments, we will write it down.

The construction of complex options for stove structures is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to seek the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of specialists on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable heating unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Therefore, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not to smoke, to supply heat and to guarantee fire safety. For beginners for construction, it is better to choose a simple model of the device in order to independently carry out high-quality laying of the furnace.

Construction tools and equipment

For installation works are used:

acute-angled and rectangular sledge hammers;
plumb line;
staples (mooring);
combined trowel;
hammer;
rammers;
putty knife;
level, square and tape measure;
meter (folding);
seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
brick and clay (red);
cement;
sand;
grate;
doors, plate (cast iron) and latches;
aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. First stage.

To make sure of the accuracy of the calculations, first, the laying is performed according to the finished unit scheme, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, a pit is dug (1 m deep), where sand is poured (11 cm layer), and concrete is loaded from above. Then, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontality of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, place them on the mixture and press down (slightly), and remove the excess with a spatula and continue the further construction process according to the same principle.

Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach the blower door for the oven, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. Laying of building material on the 4th tier occurs on the edge. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the rear surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will facilitate the clearing of debris from the smoke passage hole.

The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of the masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are cut off, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The brick (at the 7th level) is laid out flat, and on the back wall of the oven a couple of pieces are attached to the edge. The fire door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.

2. Second stage.

Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron plate is mounted on the mortar (with a slight displacement back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The baking sheets are supported by steel strips inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and reinforced from the fourteenth row, after 2 subsequent ones, to the twentieth. This tier contains: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet metal. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. Third stage.

After making the heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and painting work begins. The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outer side of the masonry, and after it dries, a thicker one. The oven is whitened with a lime solution and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for covering masonry, as when heated, they emit vapors that are harmful to health.

1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a flat surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, it is necessary to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.

2. The reliability of the kiln structure depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.

3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared grooves in bricks, intended for the installation of the grate, shutters and doors, provide the latter with a longer work. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.

5. Bricks on tiers of masonry are placed as tightly as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against the finished device diagram, which allows you to control its exact observance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing a pre-furnace sheet made of iron or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).

7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with valves.

Cost of materials and wages

Self-construction of a stove is much cheaper compared to the services of a qualified worker. The minimum price for the work of a foreman starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and the cost of masonry for various types of stoves are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of a building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. The types of cladding also play an important role. Decorating with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).

Average cost of building supplies:

The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying casting and other materials for masonry. If a door for a Russian-made firebox costs 400 rubles, then an imported one costs 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for erecting a furnace (consumption for 35 bricks) is 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, taking all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The calculation of costs also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of materials for masonry, which is assigned by the carriers.

Articles

The scheme of a brick heating stove depends on what you want to get in the end. It can be heating, or it can be just cooking food.

After all, the functionality can be different. Today we will consider furnace heating brick drawings and rules for performing work.

You will also learn about the types of this design and their purpose. Also in the video in this article, see the manufacturing and application options for each type.

Choosing the right masonry scheme

Heating brick ovens: drawings will need to be done before starting work. Indeed, depending on the type, you will also need a different amount of brick and finishing material. Any of the proposed types can be made with your own hands, and in this case the price of the product will be much lower.

Furnace types

Brick heating stoves: schemes are divided depending on the application.

Depending on the design, the furnaces can be divided into the following types:

Heating stove

Its main purpose is to heat a room.

Water heating for the whole house can also be connected here.
Fireplaces-stoves should also be attributed to them, here heating is quite fast, because open fire is supposed to burn. Although such a design is not suitable for a large room.

Cooking oven

Its purpose is cooking. It is simply not efficient for heating.

The design is quite simple and you can completely do it yourself.
Perfect for giving. Where you don't go often and you just have to cook food.
Installation cost is not high. There are also small design options.

Heating and cooking stove

Has all the advantages and disadvantages of the previous two types.

Layouts of heating stoves made of bricks of this type are more complex. It's a whole system.

These are quite powerful structures that are heavy. Here you will have to make a reinforced independent foundation.
You will also need to make a high-quality chimney.

So:

A stove for a home should have a number of mandatory characteristics: heat the room, be safe for others, and create comfortable living conditions.
Not everyone can fold a stove with their own hands, which would have similar characteristics. The slightest mistake in calculations can be costly, as well as poor quality work. As a rule, craftsmen are invited for this.
Nowadays, the task is somewhat simplified by the presence of a huge amount of information on the laying of stoves on the Internet. Here you can familiarize yourself in detail with the technique of laying the stove by watching the corresponding video.

Heating furnace schemes

Before choosing, you should familiarize yourself with the device options for each design.

Immediately you need to think over the installation system. After all, each design has its own requirements. For heavy ones, a large foundation is required. For cooking stoves, it will be possible to do with a small stovetop.

Preparatory work

First you need to decide on the place of construction of the future furnace. The first time the stove is erected when housing is being built, which means that the shape and dimensions of the stove have already been determined, as well as its location.

So:

The location of the stove largely depends on the layout of the entire building, and its location should be such that it effectively heats the entire living space.
If the place is determined, you can start building the foundation. Its dimensions should be slightly larger than the geometric dimensions of the furnace. When building it, you need to put waterproofing.
When laying, it should be remembered that the seams should be minimal, and the evenness should be maximal.
When laying out the inner surfaces of the chimneys, there should be no rush of mortar, and the surfaces should be flat. It is advisable to remove the excess solution that stands out from the seams. Both the side surfaces and the corners must be carefully laid out.

Attention: The foundation must support the weight of the structure. Therefore, it will need to be reinforced. This will add extra rigidity.

You will need a tool

To carry out such work, you will need the following tool:

Trowel (trowel).
Putty knife.
Building level.
Plumb line.
Lacing.
Solution container.
Shovel or drill.
Soft wire.
Roulette.

Masonry methods and order

We do the masonry

Stoves can be laid in various ways. This can be masonry with empty seams or undercut masonry.

Attention: These methods are fundamentally different. When laying in undercutting, the seams are completely filled, and such a stove is not plastered. The thickness of the walls of the furnace can be made in brick or half brick.

Only red solid bricks should be used for laying stoves. In this case, you cannot use bricks, second-hand, slotted bricks or other building materials that are not intended for this.

Masonry technology consists of several stages:

We cover the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It can be a simple roofing material. We make the basement part. Its height is determined individually. Just don't make it too high. It is made by continuous masonry without voids.

The first row can be lined with bricks, without the use of mortar. After that, the bricks are aligned and the location of the front wall and the location of all doors are determined. After that, the laying is continued, but using the solution. As a rule, ordinary clay mortar is used for laying stoves.
You can then install vertical beacons using plumb lines and ropes or fishing line.
Furnace elements such as a blower, ash pan or combustion chamber are located depending on the design of the furnace. As a rule, the blower is located after the third row of masonry, and one row after it - the ash pan.
Then the firebox is laid out. Fastening of the door of the firebox and the blower is carried out with the help of soft wire.
The next in turn is the stove vault, which is formed after the second row of bricks laid above the firebox.

The combustion chamber is laid out with refractory bricks. To increase the efficiency of the furnace, it must be equipped with various valves that regulate the flow of heated gases.

Technological order of masonry

The order of laying out the oven is as follows:

The first row is laid out without mortar and leveled using a building level.
Bricks are laid out at the corners with mortar and strictly horizontally. After that, the space is filled with bricks, using mortar. This will be the first row.
After laying out the first row, the evenness of the sides of the oven is checked using a tape measure. If there is a gap, then they are corrected with a mallet, knocking out one or another corner brick.
After that, you can start laying out the second row. Layout starts from the corners and continues along the entire perimeter. After the perimeter is laid, the middle of the second row is laid.
Then, at the corners, between the first and second row, nails 80 mm long are hammered in and using a plumb line they project an angle to the ceiling.

In the place of the projection of the corner, a nail is hammered in and the rope is pulled from the bottom to the ceiling. This operation is done with all angles.

The stretched cords will serve as a guide for further work. Subsequent rows, relative to the vertical, will be controlled by stretched cords that define the contour of the future oven.
All subsequent rows are laid out in the same way, controlling the horizontalness with the help of a building level. During laying, you need to ensure that there is no excess solution, and the walls of the chimney should be wiped with a wet rag every 4-5 rows. In this case, you need to ensure that the solution in these places completely fills the seams.
The brickwork for the oven is made as thin as possible and the fill is 100%. Masonry with thick seams is less durable, as they may partially fall out.
The laying of the stove is carried out with the binding of bricks, otherwise it will not hold. The meaning of the dressing is that the vertical seam of the next row is somewhere in the middle of the brick of the previous row. It does not always come out and the vertical seam "walks" from the center of the brick to the left, then to the right. This should be constantly monitored and adjusted in such a way that the center of the vertical row does not go beyond ¼ of the brick.
The cut brick lies outside the chimney, since the cut surface is considered weaker and can collapse under the influence of temperature.

Using fireclay bricks

Fireclay bricks have excellent resistance to high temperatures and are therefore used to form a combustion chamber.

Due to the different coefficients of thermal expansion, the bricks of the combustion chamber are not tied up with the bricks of the furnace. There should be a gap of about 5 mm between them.
When laying out a fireclay brick firebox, you can lay out a full row or, after laying out, lining the firebox with fireclay bricks.

Before installing the door, it should be checked for a good fit and free rotation on the hinges.

So:

In the presence of distortions or lack of smoothness of rotation, such defects should be eliminated, and if this is not possible, then replaced with new ones. You should also determine if there are mounting holes available.
For fastening, a soft (knitting) wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm and a length of about 50 cm is used. The wire is inserted into the hole and twisted.
It is impossible to install the door after laying the masonry, therefore it is installed during the masonry process. In order for the door to hold well, the wire must sit in the seams, between the rows of bricks. Since the masonry lies from bottom to top, the door is fastened in the same order. First, the lower ends of the wire are walled up, and then the upper ones.
After laying the lower fixing ends, the door must be set strictly vertically and horizontally with subsequent fixation. After the door is exposed, you can continue with further work.
This installation technique can be used to fix the combustion chamber doors, blower doors and other metal objects such as valves, soot grills, etc.
A very important stage is the installation of the stove. It is installed on a clay mortar. The consistency of the mortar should be such that the excess mortar freely comes out from under the slab, as a result of the pressure of its own weight. Its amount should be such that it fills all the free space. It must not be allowed to be small. In the future, under the influence of high temperature, the clay is sintered and will reliably hold the slab on the surface.

After finishing the work, the stove must be allowed to dry completely. This is not less than 14 days, after which the stove can be heated.
To make the stove attractive, it can be covered with tiles. This is where the quality of the masonry can come in handy, especially if it was done by hand. It will be easy to lay tiles on a very flat surface, especially since high requirements are also imposed on its laying due to the presence of high temperatures.

Brick heating stoves: we select drawings depending on the chosen design. It is best to lay the working part on a clay mortar. You have the instruction and, having chosen the desired model from the photo, you can get to work.