Ventilation pipe in the bathroom. Forced ventilation in the bathroom - types and installation

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are needed: the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to make it right.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say - forced. Natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of the wind, temperature differences and resulting pressure drops. When using mechanical ventilation, the air movement is caused by the fans.

From the point of view of an urban person, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are more likely the norm. Therefore, they probably strive mainly to make systems non-volatile or, at least, redundant.

But natural ventilation in the bathroom and the bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement along the channel, the larger the duct cross-section is required to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one would argue that the air moves faster when the fan is on. This is even reflected in SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the sizes of the channels will be different. For example, to transmit a flow of 300 m 3 / h, you will need:

Therefore, few people today make do with natural ventilation. Is that in small houses (up to 100 sq. M.). Even in apartments with roof channels, the ventilation of bathrooms and toilets is done using fans.

Organization rules

When arranging an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work effectively, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its overflow into the technical ones. From there he already leaves through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of air supply. We put the windows sealed, the walls through which the air flowed at least a little, we insulate with airtight materials. The third source - the entrance doors - today, too, are almost all made of iron, with a rubber seal. Remained, in fact, the only way - airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out the heat. As a result, the problem of dampness is added to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room: there is no inflow, and the outflow is ineffective. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the premises not to "get wet", make ventilation openings. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that can be mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable dampers, of various shapes and sizes, and are enclosed by grilles from the outside. It is best to install under windows, above or behind radiators. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having provided the inflow, it is necessary to ensure that through the doors it enters the technical rooms. Therefore, under all the doors there should be cracks: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical areas: kitchen and toilet. Only when there is movement of air masses, ventilation will work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There is even a valve with noise absorption, and the smell, if properly organized, will never get into other rooms.

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

To determine which fan to put on the bathroom with a toilet, you need to calculate the required air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing the fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere with the calculations, its performance can be taken by average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. They are used to calculate ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP) for a bathroom at least 25 m 3 / h should be "pumped" in an hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom the speed should be twice as much - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, however, through three (or two) technical rooms - a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom - as much air should go as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The inflow is calculated by the volume of all living quarters and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times, and to ensure the required air exchange the minimum values indicated in the table are not enough. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken at least with a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going to the bathroom for a fan with a lower capacity than 100 m 3 / h, it is better not to take it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will install the fan: in the channel or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: duct or wall. Wall-mounted versions can also be of two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for channelless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa, for this reason they are not placed in the channels.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, such a characteristic as the noise level is also important. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

For the fan to work, you need a power supply and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

Connect in parallel with switching on the lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan starts automatically. But it also turns off automatically when you turn off the light. This is normal for a toilet, but not always for a bathroom. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different method of connecting the fan or set a turn-off delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power is turned off).

Bring it to a separate switch button or put a separate toggle switch / button.
Set a timer that will automatically supply power according to the schedule.

The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, take it out to the place where the switch is installed and connect there, depending on the chosen method.

Checking the ventilation duct

Do-it-yourself installation of a fan in the bathroom begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not yet been dismantled, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the opening. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the thrust is normal. If it stretches, then bends back - the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors above or below may get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. It is necessary to stabilize the traction.

If the flame or leaf hardly deflects, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as an unpleasant odor, are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, it is a must.

In the event of an abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the canals themselves or call maintenance services. In private houses, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, perhaps you brought it out without taking into account the wind rose and the draft periodically overturns. You can fix the problem by moving the exit, but it's not easy. For a start, you can try to put a deflector (if not) or slightly increase / decrease the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When the fan is installed during its operation, the amount of exhaust air is significantly increased. But due to the fact that the body overlaps part of the channel cross-section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow is reduced by three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with a lower air intake grille and thus increase the capacity to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the body and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the gap and ventilation will be normal in any case. For more details, see the video.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

A hole must be made on the tile for the case. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline it. Then use a special drill bit or grinder to cut a hole of the appropriate size.
Remove the bezel from the fan. It is secured with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grate was removed. The holes for the fasteners are now visible. We insert in this form the fan into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the places where the bolts will be.
With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall for the size of the dowel.
We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power supply wire.
Insert the dowels.
We pull electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, drill it).
Install in place, tighten the bolts.
We connect the wires.
We check the performance and install the grill.
For wooden toilets, all this is only partially true. Read about
Bathroom ventilation in a private house

Here, the main difficulties can arise when installing exhaust ducts. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then taken out to the roof. It is more difficult from the point of view of internal wiring - you will have to pull the air ducts to the right place, and also more costly during construction. But the appearance is solid.

Another way to arrange ventilation ducts is to bring it out through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal traction with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common duct will be displayed by you or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from a fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options shown in the photo is suitable.

In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made directly in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). This device uses a conventional wall fan. The same figure shows how you can reduce the number of required channels. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are close by, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

In the second version (in the photo on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the eaves of the roof (in the photo it is short, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet, this may not happen, and in the case of a bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt after a couple of years. In this case, you can "pull" the air duct to the cut of the roof or bring it up through the knee (but raise it by 50 cm above the roof).

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an indispensable condition, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then not only will a persistent smell persist in the bathroom rooms, but also a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to deal with.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the fumes will settle on the surface of the ceiling and the upper part of the walls, where you can most often see black spots of microflora colonies. We must not forget that any fungus multiplies by spores that are thrown into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by household members, and this can lead to allergic reactions, respiratory system diseases, asthma and other serious ailments.

Basically, the question of how to conduct it effectively arises before the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is pre-laid in the building project, and the ventilation ducts are divorced into the premises of the bathroom and the kitchen. However, information can also be useful for apartment owners - the "standard" ventilation system does not always fully cope with its responsibilities, and certain adjustments must be made to its work.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the existing ventilation systems of the premises.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special devices and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey buildings. The size of the ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation pipes are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living quarters with the required volume of air exchange.

Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wishing to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the conditions of the apartment.

In addition, forced ventilation systems are subdivided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:

Exhaust ventilation. In this system, the air that rises to the ceiling is drawn in and out through special ducts with the help of a fan. Typically, this scheme is used in conjunction with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out by means of the intake of air from the street, with its further forced exhaust through the kitchen and sanitary premises.

- in this system, the fan operates to supply air, and its outlet for a full cycle is ventilated naturally through the ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective release of air to the outside in the required volume.
The supply and exhaust system implies both the injection of air into the premises and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for houses of a large area, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly insufficient.

Fan types

Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with a natural flow of air through "clean" living quarters and forced it out through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about the exhaust fans. They are subdivided into types according to the places of their installation - these are axial, duct, roof and radial.

Axial wall (overhead) fans.

The axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of the electric motor. When the blades rotate, they capture air and activate its removal from the room.

This type of device is fixed in the ventilation duct window on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to a well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, therefore it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in apartment conditions.

Duct fans.

Duct axial fans are used in everyday practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since their independent installation is rather complicated. However, sometimes it is impossible to do without them, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in the bathroom or other rooms of a private house.

This type of fan can be installed in different parts of the ventilation duct. It is located in a special box-shaped case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that the instrument is easily accessible as it must be periodically cleaned and lubricated.

Air ducts in which duct fans are installed are of three types - flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.

Flexible ducts are easy to install, which is why they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter lifespan than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A zealous owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.

Radial fans.

A radial fan consists of an engine located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box with a characteristic spiral shape.

During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which from the fan enters through the outlet of the casing into the air duct.

For installation in residential buildings, it is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower indicators of the generated pressure, such devices are distinguished by better "linearity" in adjustments, a large operating range and, most importantly, not so noisy compared to fans with forward-curved blades.

Radial fans withstand increased loads well and are quite economical in operation.

Roof fans.

As can be understood from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of apartment buildings and private houses.

The design of the roof fan includes such elements as a motor, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration-insulating (damper) gaskets, and a device for automatic regulation.

The roof fan can be of axial, multi-blade or radial design. The latter is the most in demand, since it is the least whimsical and provides high performance with minimal energy costs.

Forced ventilation systems can operate both in automatic and manual mode, have one level of pumping or several speeds.

Unregulated ventilation has only two mode positions: "on" and "off".
More flexible will be a system that has several speeds, which are selected by the switch.
The most economical in operation are fans with a variable speed, in which the impeller is given a speed of rotation corresponding to the required current load on the system. The speed change is quite smooth, with the help of special automatic control and monitoring units.

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move on to the issue of choosing the necessary and the toilet. But the main question immediately arises about its most important characteristic - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain volume of air per unit of time.

It will be difficult to understand this aspect if, for a start, you do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for organizing ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guiding documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 ("Heating, ventilation and air conditioning") and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * ("Residential buildings").

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system should be installed in those rooms where it is necessary according to sanitary standards, but natural ventilation, that is, a window or a vent, is absent in them or normal ventilation is not enough.

In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, below is generalized information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Room type	Ventilation rates		Notes (edit)
	Air inflow from outside	Air extraction to the outside
Residential area premises	The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living
Residential area premises	3 m³ for every 1 m² of living space	-	The calculation is based on the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe living quarters of the house
Kitchen
With an electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³ / hour
With a 2-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³ / hour
With a 3-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 75 m³ / hour
With a 4-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³ / hour
Bathroom	Inflow from the premises of the living area	Not less than 25 m³ / hour
Separate lavatory	Inflow from the premises of the living area	Not less than 25 m³ / hour
Combined bathroom (bath + toilet), individual	Inflow from the premises of the living area	Not less than 50 m³ / hour

There are certainly norms in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing rooms, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not of particular interest to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the above values.

But why do we need to know the indicators of supply natural ventilation in the premises of the living area? And the fact is that an apartment or a house should be considered as a single balanced “organism”. To be effective, and the rooms of the bathroom, toilet and kitchen are constantly ventilated by the air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of the extracted air cannot be less than that of the incoming air. There is such a concept as the air balance equation, and when selecting ventilation units, it is necessary to strive for its maximum observance.

∑Qpr. = ∑Q

∑Qpr.- the required total volume of air supplied with forced ventilation.

∑Q- the required capacity of the exhaust ventilation.

Failure to observe this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, the penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom, into living rooms, the accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly fogging windows are a sign of poor room ventilation.

The eternally wet surface of the glass on the windows is a floor of trouble, just an outward sign of a rather serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.

To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.

The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the rate of air exchange in the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to standards for each meter of living space. Then it remains to compare the results obtained and choose the maximum indicator - it will become the required value of the air flow for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the obtained value, it will be possible to switch to the distribution of forced exhaust ventilation volumes in order to achieve the desired equality.

For example, a calculation for a house with a total area of 120 square meters.

Do you have problems calculating the area of the premises?

Usually, the area is easiest to take from the existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, but you have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are placed for quick and accurate calculation.

For the convenience of calculations, you can create a small table:

The premises of the house	Air inflow from outside			Exhaust hood to the street
Other data and settlement progress	According to sanitary standards for living people	By the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of the premises	According to the standards for 1 m2 of usable area	Specified minimum	Necessary in real conditions
Number of residents	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Bedroom 1	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Bedroom 2	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Canteen	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen (gas hob 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³ / hour	150 m³ / hour
Hallway	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
Corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³ / hour	50 m³ / hour
Bathroom	-	2 m²	-	25 m³ / hour	50 m³ / hour
Total area	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 m	-	-	-
Volume in total	-	120 × 3.1 = 372 m³	-	-	-
Established norm	30 m³ / hour	0.35 times / hour	3 m³ / 1 m²	-	-
Payment	5 × 30 = 150	372 x 0.35 = 130.2	83 x 3 = 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
The need for standards	150 m³ / hour	130.2 m³ / hour		140 m³ / hour

So, of the three calculated values, we take the maximum - 249 m³ / hour, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³ / hour, and bring to this value the total capacity of exhaust ventilation in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

The kitchen should be given more - it has a larger area and ventilation rates in this room are stricter. In our case, it can take 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen ventilation, but only if the hood works with air extraction to the outside, and not according to the recirculation principle.

The remaining 100 m³ / hour can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and toilet (if you plan to install individual axial fans for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are united by one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate performance. Obviously, such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with the minimum standards, even with a good margin.

So, all the conditions are fully met, and the required capacity of the ventilation unit has also been determined.

Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan

It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, along the air ducts and wall surfaces inside which they are laid.

Mechanical noise arises from vibration of a wheel with blades, an electric motor and a casing in which the entire structure is installed.

Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the impeller, at the air inlet and outlet, when it moves through the air ducts, as well as during pulsations that occur.

The increased vibration and noise of the ventilation unit can negatively affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the generated noise pressure, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product passport (often - even within a certain distance from the device).

If a fan is purchased with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then you should give preference to a device that will cope with the necessary task of exhausting the required air volume not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its inherent capabilities. This way, the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will be significantly reduced - high revs are most often the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.

Another important point in reducing the noise level is the installation of a fan with provided straight sections to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulence. For a duct or radial fan, it is advisable to leave such areas on both sides (for an axial fan, of course, this cannot be fully observed). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 times the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).

Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Axial conventional fans can be operated manually, or they can be built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan is also turned on.

The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the living area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.

The automatic design of the device presupposes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, which sets the switch-on time, operating modes and the fan switch-off time.

Instrument safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, moisture-proof appliances are selected for bathrooms, the packaging of which must be marked with a corresponding label.

When choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices necessarily in specialized stores, preferably - models of well-known manufacturers, the brand of which itself gives a certain guarantee for the product. Do not hesitate to demand that the necessary marks of sale be affixed in the product passport - to ensure further warranty and service.

TOP 9 best bathroom fans

	Name	Rating
Best Overhead Fans
#1	Vents VNV-1 80 KV	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Cata E-120 GTH	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Electrolux EAFR	⭐ 97 / 100 1 - voice
#4	Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design	⭐ 96 / 100
Best duct fans
#1	Blauberg Turbo 315	⭐ 99 / 100 1 - voice
#2	Vents Quietline 100	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Era Profit 5	⭐ 97 / 100
Best backlit fans
#1	Cata E-100 GLT	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Blauberg Lux 125	⭐ 98 / 100

Self-installation of ventilation

Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only increase the exhaust air exhaust along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all the elements of the system even at the construction stage, but often you have to carry out these installation work in an already finished building.

Elements of the ventilation system

If the type of ventilation system is determined, then you need to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to the dimensions previously taken.

The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into a wall or ceiling, as well as into an air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in the event of a planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even spaced apart) from each other, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are diverted, then connected to a single duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
Duct ducts can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross-section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, the rectangular version is more convenient to attach to the ceiling or wall, it can ideally be positioned above a suspended or stretch ceiling. The circular cross-section provides more efficient air removal, since it does not have internal corners that hinder its smooth movement or cause turbulence.

Rectangular air ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ones are less "noisy"

Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
Couplings are used to connect separate sections of the duct.
The non-return valve is installed in order to avoid backflow of air when the fan is off, or, for example, in case of strong wind outside.
Elements for fixing air ducts. To do this, you can use home-made or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the location.
Ventilation grilles installed on the inlet and outlet of the system are required if a duct fan installed between two parts of the air duct is selected. One ventilation grill will be needed to mount it on the system outlet when installing a surface mounted axial fan.

Ventilation system installation

The installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen design, and on whether it is being updated or reinstalled. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, a detailed diagram should be drawn up, according to which it will be easier to work.

If you decide to update an already installed ventilation system, then it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. In the event that this cannot be done, it will be necessary to thoroughly clean the old duct from debris and layers on the stacks.
Before laying the ventilation duct, it is necessary to determine in advance the installation location of the fan. The optimal place for installing the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural flow of air in the form of a draft.
The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand the existing ventilation window to the required size.
The ventilation duct is led out into an arranged hole, then it is gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the scheme and fixed in the attic of the building, or it is led through the attic floor and the roof.
If the channel is led out into the street through the outer wall, it is recommended to install a pipe in the ventilation opening from the street side, which is raised vertically by at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If, however, only a protective grill is installed on the through hole, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly go through the ventilation in a draft.

The ventilation pipe leading out through the roof of the building requires a reliable waterproofing device. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs, which are put on the pipe and fixed on the roof.

Another option for installing the system is to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe), which is connected to the outlet, covered by a protective grill installed under the roof soffit. This method of installation is possible both in combination with a suspended ceiling and without it, since the box can easily pass through the attic.

In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the rooms of the bathroom are separated, and ventilation must be connected to one common air duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with nozzles are installed in the common ventilation channel, which will go into the rooms through the suspended ceiling, and the air duct itself can be brought out into the street through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed from the street side and covered with a special casing.

After conducting and fixing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and fixed on the wall in a convenient in each case and, of course, in a reliable way. Consider the presence of vibration loads so that the fasteners do not loosen over time.
Before finally fixing the surface-mounted axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan with the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed to the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above the suspended structure.

The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to exclude active exposure to high humidity.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located in different ways, but a connection diagram is always attached to the fan, which will help you navigate this issue.

If a decision is made to connect the fan with a light switch, then this switching should be carried out approximately as shown in this diagram:

Connection in a similar way is carried out in a junction box specially installed for this, where the "zero" and "phase" wires of the fan and lighting are connected using a terminal, respectively. The "phase" is interrupted on the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.

By the way, if you think about it carefully, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate a situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself off, dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, the excess moisture is unlikely to be fully drawn out by the fan, and the room remains in a "steam column". The situation is similar with the use of the restroom. It would be more reasonable with such a connection to provide for a time delay, at least for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer devices for controlling light and ventilation, designed specifically for these purposes.

When installing a duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider how to connect it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to be run through the attic. An electrical cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and it itself along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be reliably insulated.

If the system is installed under the ceiling of the premises, then the duct together with the fan can be hidden above the suspended ceiling. In this case, the ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is led out and fixed, and then cover this window with a decorative and functional grill.

Video: how to independently install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet

Checking the installed system

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such a control, no tools are required - it is enough to bring a piece of paper or a lighted candle to the grill of the turned on fan. If a sheet of paper is attracted to the grate, and the candle flame tilts toward it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.

If it is necessary to increase the thrust, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. For this, a narrow slot-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes is drilled. These openings are then closed on both sides by a specially designed ventilation grill. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed on with self-tapping screws.

The hood in the bathroom and toilet must be selected and installed in such a way that there is an intensive flow of fresh air. Such a ventilation system will allow you to get rid of the bathroom, as well as mold and mildew arising from excess moisture.

In this article we will talk about the types of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet, the choice of a hood for a combined bathroom, which can also serve as a good element, and its correct installation and functioning.

The hood in the bathroom has a very simple device - in fact, it is an elementary ventilation system of the forced operating principle. It consists of a maximum of two parts - an air duct that connects to the ventilation riser of the house, as well as the fan itself.

Despite such a simple design, it works perfectly, and most importantly, it copes with the responsibilities assigned to it by 100%.

Since we have come to the conclusion that the hood is nothing more than ventilation, then we should understand the principle of its operation. In almost all houses, it functions according to the supply and exhaust method.

If you suddenly do not find a second ventilation duct that provides an influx of fresh air, know that it is provided by ventilating the apartment or the house as a whole. That is why, in some situations, a duct designed to remove exhaust air from a room in a bathroom can act as an inflow.

This state of affairs is a sign of fully or partially clogged ducts. This often happens in apartment buildings, but in private buildings this effect is practically not found. It is for the same reason that most people living in high-rise buildings equip their bathrooms with a forced exhaust air system.

Simply put, if the ventilation ducts are 100% clean, then there is no need for a hood for the toilet and bathroom - ventilation and removal of excess moisture is carried out due to natural convection of air.

By the way, one of the reasons for poor-quality ventilation is metal-plastic windows, which completely eliminate the effect of slot ventilation, for which ventilation in old houses was mainly calculated.

The device seems to have been sorted out, now it's the heart of the ventilation system for the bathroom or toilet. Fan - all the problems of old and clogged ventilation ducts are assigned to it. The device is ambiguous and may differ in some structural elements, which cannot be ignored.

Exhaust electric fan

Let's start by dividing all modern bathroom hoods into two types: simple and automatic. What is the difference between them? The fact that the latter need minimal human participation in the process of air exchange.

Simple hoods are an ordinary electric fan housed in a tubular housing. They can be switched on either by a built-in switch or by a stand-alone switch. A fairly common way to turn it on is the switch key, which is responsible for lighting the bathroom.

This approach to business is not very correct, since in this case the removal of polluted air is carried out only when there is a person in the room. But moisture does not have time to evaporate during this time. Therefore, it is advisable to install a separate switch for the fan.

Automatic extractor hood. It differs from an ordinary one only in the presence of electronics that control its work. Such devices can work using two different methods - some of them are equipped with an off timer (they are turned on, like an ordinary hood, using the switch key), and others with special sensors that control the humidity in the bathroom.

As soon as it exceeds the permissible value, the fan turns on, after the humidity returns to normal, it turns off. These are quite convenient devices that do not require human intervention to control their work.

In addition, both types of bathroom hoods can be equipped with additional options.

On some models, a so-called check valve is installed, which does not allow air to pass in the opposite direction - this nuance will be indispensable for residents of high-rise buildings, in which the smell of borscht or burnt onions penetrating from neighbors is considered a common phenomenon.

For residents of the private sector, whose ventilation in the bathroom has direct contact with the street, it will not be superfluous to purchase a hood with an adjustable diffuser - by twisting or unscrewing the washer in the center of the hood, you can adjust the amount of air emitted to the street.

Types of bathroom and toilet fans

The functionality of ventilation devices is quite important, so you need to figure out how to choose a hood for a bathroom or toilet. Today, all exhaust fans can be divided into two types.

The standard hood for the toilet and bathroom is a conventional axial system equipped with a function designed to block the flow of exhaust air into the room.

Such a system is turned on and off with a light switch, which is quite convenient. But with the formation of large volumes of steam in the process of taking a bath, such a system is ineffective.

Automatic extractor hood is a more advanced, but at the same time, expensive device. Such devices are equipped with special timers that are set for a certain time period of operation, and more functional devices are equipped with a hydrostat, which determines the level of humidity in the room.

Having dealt with the main parameters of the device, it remains only to choose a suitable system, which you can install yourself without any problems. In this case, the fasteners are made with standard self-tapping screws or with glue.

Hood in the bathroom

Construction guides clearly indicate the norms that must be adhered to for effective ventilation of sanitary facilities with high humidity.

The system should provide a supply of fresh air for the bathroom or toilet at a rate of 25 cubic meters. m / hour, and for a combined unit twice as high - 50 cubic meters. m / hour. These norms are minimal.

Sometimes experts recommend removing air from the bathroom at a rate of about 150 cubic meters. m / hour.

Depending on the characteristics of air exchange, natural and forced ventilation are distinguished. In the first case, the exchange takes place due to the difference in air pressure outside and inside the room.

Air flows penetrate through windows, doors, special ventilators, etc. It should be noted right away that due to the peculiarities of the design of the bathroom, the use of natural ventilation does not always allow obtaining the desired effect.

For the device of channelless ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to make an opening that will connect the house ventilation duct with the bathroom.

For forced or artificial ventilation of the room, special fans are used, which provide a sufficient rate of air exchange.

Most often, the fan helps to move air from the room to the street, while fresh air masses enter the bathroom from the living quarters. Sometimes a small fan is placed in the toilet, even with good natural ventilation, in order to speed up the removal of unpleasant odors from the air.

If it is not possible to naturally organize a sufficiently intensive air exchange, forced ventilation is mandatory.

Depending on the purpose, they are distinguished:

exhaust;
supply air;
mixed ventilation.

The exhaust principle has already been described a little above: air is removed through the ventilation duct, and new air enters from the outside. Supply ventilation is organized differently: air is forced from outside and forced out through the duct.

When using mixed ventilation, both the air flow and its removal are regulated.

A beautiful decorative grill for a hood in the bathroom will not only hide the structure, but can also become a spectacular detail.

Experts also distinguish between duct and channelless ventilation, which is characterized by the presence or absence of a ventilation duct.

The creation of special channels should be avoided whenever possible. Usually, an opening is made in the wall that opens into the common ventilation duct of a multi-storey building, and a fan is installed in it.

In a separate bathroom, if only one room has access to the ventilation duct, another fan is installed in the wall opening between the bathroom and the toilet.

Bringing up a separate ventilation duct makes sense in places requiring intensive removal of contaminated or moisture-laden air.

Before making a choice in favor of a particular air exchange system, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the types and principles of operation of such systems. Extraction of the bathroom can be arranged in a natural and forced manner.

Natural draft.

Such a hood works due to the action of natural factors, such as the difference in pressure and temperature of the air in the room and outside.

The exhaust air is removed through a ventilation duct in the wall of the house. An open window or door through which the supply air enters is sufficient for air exchange.

Very often, especially in apartment buildings of old buildings, ventilation ducts are clogged or clogged due to the destruction of ventilation tips on the roof of buildings. In this case, natural extraction in bathrooms does not work.

Natural ventilation systems are cheap, easy to install and maintain, and there is no need for power supply.

A natural extractor hood in the bathroom and toilet is a simple and economical solution to the ventilation problem with good draft. Along with this, one cannot but ignore its shortcomings:

unstable operation in hot weather, in which there is no required temperature difference;
high sensitivity to clogging of ventilation ducts.

Mechanical extraction.

The system of such an exhaust operates due to the operation of fans, forcibly removing the contaminated air flow into the exhaust ventilation ducts. The installation of such ventilation can be done at any time, while natural ventilation channels are laid during the construction phase.

Forced hoods in the bathroom and toilet are installed in the following cases:

absence or weak functioning of natural air exchange;
redevelopment of a bathroom or combining it with a toilet, when some of the ventilation ducts are removed;
installation of electrical equipment that helps to increase the formation of steam, the volume of which is not completely removed by natural extraction;
the room is small - the hood in the bathroom does not have time to remove the amount of moisture and steam generated when taking a bath or shower.

The disadvantage of forced ventilation is the need for electricity and the need to lay a wire to each fan.

Ventilation check

You can check the operation of the hood in the bathroom and toilet in two simple ways without the use of special equipment - using a candle or a sheet of paper.

A burning candle is brought to the ventilation duct - when the ventilation is running, the flame deflects, indicating the direction of the air flow. In the absence of thrust, the flame remains vertical.

To check the correct operation of the ventilation system, you can use the advice of specialists. To do this, you need a regular paper sheet, which is applied to the ventilation grill in the bathroom or toilet, and if it is held on it by the air flow, then everything is in order with the hood.

In turn, if the paper falls to the floor, then you need to think about installing an exhaust fan.

I would like to note that even a normally functioning system does not always cope with its duties, since it works due to the temperature difference inside the apartment and on the street.

Very often during the summer period of the year, when it is very hot outside, the natural ventilation system becomes completely useless and does not draw unpleasant odors from the toilet.

Poor ventilation performance can also be caused by insufficient supply of fresh air. This problem is typical for old houses after the installation of plastic windows. To solve it, you should install windows with ventilators.

How not to be mistaken with the choice of an exhaust device

With poor air circulation in the bathroom or toilet, moisture accumulates on the ceiling and walls, due to which water droplets condense, mold and mildew form. And due to the lack of windows allowing fresh air to come in from the street, the only correct solution would be to install an electric exhaust fan for the toilet or bathroom.

At the same time, when buying an exhaust device, you need to proceed from the following criteria:

the total area of the toilet or bathroom used for ventilation;
the number of residents using the bathroom.

In order to save electricity, it is better to choose exhaust devices with a built-in power regulator and a provided function for disconnecting the device from the mains if necessary. To buy an exhaust device that best suits a particular room, you need to understand its main characteristics.

The performance of the hood is one of the most important parameters. If an exhaust system is installed that passes from the toilet through the bathroom, it means that it will handle large enough volumes of air and standard fans for exhaust in the toilet with a very low level of efficiency will not cope with the task set before them.

Device safety - an electric hood for a toilet or bathroom must comply with all regulatory safety parameters and is located in a sealed case. Vapors and moisture often accumulate on the ceiling, therefore even hoods placed on the ceiling must be protected from such external factors.

Due to the fact that most multi-storey buildings are equipped with a common exhaust duct for several apartments, when purchasing a ventilation device, you need to choose systems equipped with a check valve.

First of all, this is due to the fact that the exhaust air, saturated with unpleasant odors from the ventilation duct, can penetrate back into the room. In addition, a check valve protects the room from dust, fluff and other dirt from the street.

Before proceeding with the installation of a ventilation system in a bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the exhaust fan. The hood structure should be located opposite the door at the top of the wall or on the ceiling.

In this case, you need to worry about the presence of electrical wiring, of course, if the fan is not equipped with a battery. After choosing a convenient place, you can proceed to installation, during which experts advise you to adhere to the following recommendations.

It is better to install ventilation for a bathroom or toilet during the renovation process in the apartment.
It is better to connect the fan from.
The wiring to the fan can be hidden in the strobes.
To greatly simplify the installation process and protect the fan from external influences, a plastic pipe is inserted into the hole in the wall, which is easily fixed with cement mortar. But before that you need to connect the device.
If the ceiling height in the bathroom or toilet is sufficient, then you can use a more functional, albeit complex ventilation structure, built using plastic boxes, fixing the device itself directly above the toilet.
In the process of connecting the exhaust device, it is important to study in detail the instructions supplied with the fan in order to properly connect it to the mains.

Apartment buildings are usually designed so that the ventilation duct is located directly behind the wall of the bathroom or toilet. It remains only to carefully make a hole in the right place (if there is one) so that it goes into this channel.

A radial axial fan is installed inside the opening. The device is connected to the power supply, observing all the requirements for the operation of electrical appliances in rooms with high humidity.

If necessary, mount additional controls (timer, gyroscope, etc.). The niche is covered with a beautiful decorative lattice. If the apartment has a separate bathroom, and the ventilation duct is located outside the walls of both rooms, the second fan is installed in the same way as described above.

Otherwise, a ventilation hole is made in the wall separating the toilet and the bathroom. A fan is also placed in this opening and covered with decorative screens on both sides.

Sometimes it is more convenient to use decorative grilles, in which the design provides for the installation of the fan in special slots.

The figure clearly shows a diagram of connecting the exhaust fan to the power supply using a timer, which allows you to turn off the fan some time after the visitor leaves the bathroom.

It is somewhat more difficult to solve the problem of ventilation of the bathroom when the ventilation duct borders on another room. In this case, you will have to create duct ventilation.

First, you need to choose a location for the ventilation hole in the bathroom and toilet. Then it is necessary to draw up a plan for the placement of the ventilation duct, along which the air masses will move outward.

When creating duct ventilation in a bathroom, a flexible corrugated box is used only in small areas where the installation of other structures is impossible or difficult

plastic round or rectangular;
hard or soft corrugated metal;
metal, tin or galvanized, usually rectangular.

Plastic boxes are easier to install and lighter in weight than metal structures, while they are durable and easy to care for.

Therefore, plastic structures are confidently displacing metal from the construction market. Corrugated products are used extremely rarely, they are permissible only for short distances and are used only in particularly difficult cases.

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check the operation of the equipment.

Here is an example of self-assembly of the hood, when a ventilation duct is provided in the room:

we check the performance of the ventilation shaft;
if the channel is clogged, we clean it with our own hands, if the area of the hole does not fit the dimensions of the device, carefully using a chisel and hammer, we increase it to the required size;
remove the external grille from the fan, insert the device into the opening of the ventilation duct and fasten it with self-tapping screws or liquid nails;
make sure that the device fits snugly in the opening of the ventilation duct;
cover with a grill and with the help of sealant seal the joints between the external grill and the wall;
we connect the wires to the mains;
for aesthetic reasons, it is better to choose a grid design that matches the style of the bathroom.

By installing an extractor hood in a bathroom or a bathroom, you will prevent the formation of condensation on the walls and metal surfaces of the faucets, eliminate unpleasant odors - the air in the bathroom will be clean and the room will be dry.

Common mistakes when installing ventilation

It so happens that the work of a brand new ventilation system suddenly turns out to be unsatisfactory or is initially ineffective.

This can be due to one or more mistakes made during its installation. When figuring out how to properly ventilate the bathroom, you should immediately take into account these points.

The ventilation duct is not designed correctly, which makes it difficult to move the air masses.
The tightness of the ventilation duct connections is broken.
The fans are not installed correctly and are making too much noise.
The duct passes through the living quarters in such a way that ventilation noise interferes with the normal life of the family.

First you need to find out the cause of the problem, then fix it. A number of troubles can be avoided by paying attention to these points at the design stage of the ventilation system.

If this was not done, and problems appeared already during the operation of the structure, it may be necessary to seriously alter the entire ventilation system.

An alternative troublesome solution is to use different types of noise absorbers to reduce unpleasant sound effects. To improve the process of moving air masses, it may be necessary to install a more powerful fan.

Sometimes excessive noise during operation of the fan indicates its incorrect installation, in which the so-called “alignment” was disturbed. In this case, it is enough to remove the device and install it again in strict observance of the installation technology.

Usually, the amount of noise from the fan is significantly reduced after this.

The supply type of ventilation in bathrooms is used extremely rarely, but if such a decision is still made, you should think about the temperature of the air entering the outside.

In winter, the flow of cold air can be extremely unpleasant for bathroom visitors. To solve this type of problem, the air entering the room is heated using special electrical appliances.

the exhaust fan is insufficient if the room does not have a normal supply of fresh air;
a large and cumbersome duct ventilation system is not always more effective than low-cost ventilation methods, if they are selected correctly;
the presence of an air conditioner in the house, as well as a purifier, ionizer, humidifier and other similar devices does not provide normal ventilation of the premises, since they do not supply fresh air to the rooms with their help.

Typically, the design of a ventilation system for a bathroom is very simple, you can do it yourself.

But if some calculations are required or the execution of a ventilation duct of a complex shape, and the beginner master does not have experience of such work, it is better to consult with professionals or completely entrust them with the implementation of all work.

The quality of ventilation cannot be neglected, since the health of the residents of the house depends on its condition.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom is really a serious question. He does not stand in front of a resident of city apartments, because in an apartment building, natural ventilation is already installed in the bathroom. But in many private houses built 30-50 years ago, this problem is acute. Because in those days, few people cared about ventilation in general, and even more so in the bathroom.

The importance of ventilation in the bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom - a system at the level of water supply and sewerage. That is, it is also important. After all, this room belongs to the category of humid, here the humidity is often almost one hundred percent. And this is condensation, which negatively affects the condition of surfaces, sanitary ware and furniture. So, the humidity must be understood. Which way? Ventilation only.

Cracks and leaks in doors and windows solve this problem ineffectively. Smudges on the walls and drops on the ceiling, foggy mirror, wet towels are not the only negative factors of the lack of a ventilation system. Humidity is the reason for the appearance of mold and mildew, which in turn will negatively affect the health of the residents of the house. The appearance of a musty smell is also the reason for the absence of a hood.

Therefore, ventilation in the bathroom must be equipped without fail, even if the house has already been built and operated. In this case, in the rooms it is necessary to install a better forced system with a maximum outflow of moist air. Today, a combination of two systems is increasingly used, when the fan is turned on during the use of the bathroom, and when the room is idle, natural ventilation functions.

Norms and requirements

In principle, the main requirement for a bathroom is air exchange in it, equal to 25 m³ / hour. It doesn't depend on what size it is. And if in other office premises (except for the toilet and kitchen) the frequency of air mass exchange is taken, then a standard value is required here. It is for her that they equip ventilation in the bathroom.

It is important to adhere to one strict requirement - the volume of the supply air must be the same or more than the exhaust air.

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

As in other areas of the house, either natural ventilation or forced ventilation can be used in the bathroom.

Natural

When equipping natural ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to strictly take into account the norms of air exchange. Indeed, in such a system there are no devices and devices that forcibly (forcibly) removed the exhaust air. Therefore, it is important to choose the correct cross-section of the ventilation duct, which is installed in this room.

For example, a square shaft with sides equal to 10 cm, or a circular pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, is allowed to pass 30 m³ / hour through itself. That is, the installed ventilation mine with such dimensional parameters will be sufficient to provide the required air exchange. But, as mentioned in the previous section, another important component of the air flow is the air flow into the room. Therefore, it must be organized.

For example, they do this.

Leave a gap between the door leaf and the floor through which the air flow enters the bathroom. In this case, the air flow is organized through the living quarters.
Make holes at the bottom of the door.
A through hole is made in the wall closer to the floor, where the air inlet valve is inserted.

The first option is used most often.

Forced

This option is considered optimal, because it becomes possible to create all conditions for the most efficient air outflow. To do this, you will have to correctly calculate the fan performance. In principle, it should be no less than air exchange, that is, no less than 25 m³ / hour.

From the wide variety of offered fans, choose the one that seems more acceptable to you for the bathroom. Namely, whether it matches the design with the finish. And whether it fits in size into the opening of the ventilation duct.

The last requirement requires clarification.

If it is a wall fan, then it should cover the hole in the wall or stream, but the blades of the device itself should not be much larger than the diameter of the hole.
If it's a ducted instance, then it just needs to fit snugly into the duct.

In some cases it is necessary to widen the hole to install the appliance. This requires some sacrifice, if, for example, ceramic tiles have already been laid. It will have to be dismantled or cut around the hole. But in any case, with the help of a fan, the exhaust system will work better.

How to understand that it is necessary to improve the ventilation system

The first sign is the appearance of mold in the corners of the room. This suggests that the humidity is high and constant. That is, the ventilation does not have time to carry out the removal of air outside the premises. So it is deposited in the corners. And heat creates additional conditions for the emergence of microorganisms.

How to improve ventilation in the bathroom

Everything will depend on what is causing the poor ventilation. If a natural system is used in the bathroom, then there are two reasons:

Insufficient air flow. It can be increased by increasing the gap between the floor and the door leaf.
The ventilation shaft is clogged. This is a more serious problem that requires a serious approach to its solution. The canal must be cleaned, which is not always possible with an independent approach. If this is ventilation in a private house, in which a regular riser is installed through the ceilings and the roof, then you can try to lower the load from above so that it pushes the garbage inside. And already from inside the room get the last one.

If a forced system is used in the bathroom, then it is necessary to check whether the installed fan is suitable for performance. It may also turn out that he simply cannot cope with air exchange.

These are three reasons that need to be addressed in order to improve the ventilation in the bathroom.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom with your own hands

In principle, ventilation in the bathroom is not a problem. The main thing is to set a goal for yourself precisely - it will be natural or compulsory.

Natural

To do this, you need to make a hole in the wall for a pipe with a diameter of 110-150 mm. It is done under the ceiling in the wall that will separate the room from the street. An air valve is inserted into this hole, which is closed on both sides by decorative grilles. It is better to choose a valve with a regulator in the form of a handle and a latch, with which you can close the hole and open or leave a small gap.

Forced

Instead of a valve, a fan must be installed in the same hole in the wall.

If this is a wall model, then a plastic pipe must be inserted into the wall, which is closed from the outside with a grill.
If this is a duct version, then the device itself is installed in the wall and closed on both sides with gratings.

The most difficult thing in this matter is to make a through hole, which will require a perforator and a diamond bit of the required diameter. Installing and fixing the fan is simple. The wall-mounted one is attached to the wall with four self-tapping screws on plastic dowels, the channel one is simply inserted into the hole without any fasteners. If necessary, the gap between the device and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam.

Improperly installed ventilation in the bathroom leads to the formation of mold and mildew in the room. As a result, bathroom owners receive damaged finishing materials and an aesthetically unattractive appearance of the room. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the correct organization of the ventilation system in the bathroom; we will consider how to make ventilation in the bathroom further.

Bathroom ventilation: requirements and functions

The process of installing ventilation in the bathroom, first of all, is followed by a check of the existing ventilation system for operability. The correct exchange of air in the room is very important not only for decorating the walls and maintaining their attractiveness, but above all for human health. Since a properly organized microclimate helps to improve the general condition and well-being of people living in it.

The bathroom is an enclosed space, which is periodically exposed to moisture, which requires indispensable removal. To test an existing system for correct operation, light a regular match and bring it to the grill of the ventilation duct. If the flame has gone out, then the system is working properly, otherwise, it needs to be adjusted. The same should be done with a small piece of paper. If the paper near the grate sticks to it, then the system is in good working order. If a malfunction is found in the performance of the ventilation system, first of all, it is necessary to clean the existing fans and ventilation ducts.

For the proper organization of ventilation in the bathroom, care should be taken to install an exhaust fan of the required power. Before installing the exhaust fan, we recommend doing the following steps to improve the existing ventilation system:

1. Install the fan into the ventilation duct.

2. Install the fan on the surface of the roof extraction shaft.

3. It is possible to install a ventilation valve in the window.

4. Towel dryers, warm water floor systems or conventional radiators are installed to improve heating in the bathroom and to remove excess moisture.

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

In relation to air exchange, ventilation in the bathroom is:

natural;
forced.

The first option involves the removal and circulation of air in a natural way. For this, doors and open windows are used. Air travels from the bathroom to the outside through the difference in pressure. Improved double-glazed windows, which have a high tightness, contribute to the violation of natural ventilation. To solve this problem, it is recommended to purchase windows and doors that have parts for microcirculation.

The second option is artificial ventilation, which is created by installing a fan in the bathroom to circulate air. The main function of this system is to discharge the air, that is, pulling it out into the street, and new air enters the bathroom from the adjacent room. With the help of a forced ventilation system, it is possible to get rid of not only high humidity in the bathroom, but also from the unpleasant odor in the room.

In relation to the purpose of ventilation, it happens:

exhaust;
supply;
combined.

The first option involves the removal of air by ventilation ducts. The second type of ventilation is based on ensuring the flow of new air into the room, with the help of which high pressure is created in the air, which removes the old air through the ventilation ducts.

The combined version assumes the use of the first two types of ventilation in the same room.

Depending on the design features, ventilation in the bathroom is:

channel;
channelless.

With the help of duct-type ventilation, rooms are cleaned that need intensive air purification from high moisture, steam or foreign odors.

The channelless ventilation option involves supplying it with wall openings that have already been installed in the room.

How to check the ventilation system for performance

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for checking ventilation in the bathroom:

1. Open the window and doors in the bathroom.

2. Take a thin sheet of paper in the form of a napkin.

3. Install it over the existing air vent.

4. If the sheet adheres tightly to its surface, then the system is working properly.

If not, remove the fan and check the ventilation duct for debris or other objects.

Matches, lighters or candles are used instead of napkins. They should slope at an angle towards the shaft. It is not recommended to check on a too hot day, since the air at this time is quite heavy, and even a working system will not show the correct result.

In order to find out about the need to make micro-ventilation niches in doors or windows, you should repeat the above steps with closed windows and vents.

If there is no air flow, small grilles are installed on the window or doors.

Tip: Even if natural ventilation works flawlessly, it is recommended to install forced ventilation in the bathroom, which will speed up the procedure for removing moisture from the room and help maintain the integrity of the renovation.

DIY bathroom ventilation: choosing a fan

In relation to the installation method, fans are:

ducted - installed in air duct systems;
radial - mounted on the outlet of air systems, featuring an aesthetically pleasing housing.

In relation to their design features, fans are:

axial;
diametrical;
centrifugal;
axial-centrifugal.

The first version of the fan implies the pumping of an axial flow using blades, thus it will be possible to create a pressure of more than 40 Pa. This type of fan is suitable for installation in a ductless system.

Among the advantages of axial fans are:

affordable cost;
ease of installation;
high efficiency.

Among the disadvantages are high noise performance, low pressure.

The second version of the fan is distinguished by the presence of a drum-shaped impeller. However, these fans are not very efficient.

The centrifugal fan is characterized by a spiral casing, which helps to achieve high performance, but at the same time produces quite little noise.

Among the advantages, we note:

high cost;
installation in channels with a length of more than 500 cm;
high power;
low noise level.

Centrifugal axial fan types are characterized by small size, low noise and excellent performance.

Buying a fan is a rather complicated process, during which, first of all, you need to pay attention to its power. The optimal power indicator for a standard bathroom is one hundred cubic meters in 60 minutes.

However, this figure is average. When choosing a power, one should be guided by the following factors:

the number of people living in the house;
the size of the room;
the number of windows and doors in the bathroom and their size;
the presence of additional natural ventilation;
the frequency of using the bathroom.

In addition, the noise level reproduced by the fan is also an important factor. The most comfortable indicator is forty decibels.

There are fans with additional functions in the form of a timer, automatic on and off. If additional funds are available, it is possible to purchase them, since the use of such a fan brings maximum comfort.

Hydrostat is a device that is responsible for turning on and off the fan at a time when there is an increased level of humidity in the room.

Some types of fans are equipped with a special protection against moisture penetration, which has an IP designation, the moisture resistance of the device depends on the value of the number after the marking.

If you plan to install the fan near a shower or bath, it is recommended to choose a device with the highest protection class. The casing of such a fan provides reliable protection of the motor from moisture, thus improving the duration of the fan's use.

Ventilation scheme in the bathroom, its arrangement

Most often, ventilation ducts are installed on the walls or ceiling. In the absence of air ducts, they must first be built in order to install the fan.

install the hood so that it is located opposite the door, thus, it will be possible to increase the air circulation in the room, otherwise, the air flows will move very slowly;
further actions should be aimed at cleaning the existing air duct from debris;
if there is a too narrow hole, take care of expanding it with a perforator; if the hole, on the contrary, is large enough, then a plastic pipe should be installed for its equipment, which is fixed in it with the help of cement mortar;
to close the cavities in the pipe, it is enough to use polyurethane foam;
keep in mind that the hood goes deep into the hole completely, only the grate remains on the wall, behind which it is hidden;
for installing the hood, self-tapping screws, dowels or materials based on sealant are used, the latter option is the most successful, since it is able to dampen vibrations that occur during the operation of the device;
the hood must necessarily be connected to the electrical network, therefore a special cable of the power supply direction is brought to it;
the option of arranging an automatic hood is possible, which works exclusively when the light is turned on.

Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house: work in the space under the ceiling

If the ceiling in the bathroom is suspended or false panels, suspended ceilings and other types of materials were used for its decoration, as a result of which the ceiling space has increased, then it is recommended to equip ventilation during the renovation of the room.

If the ventilation hole is located below the false ceiling, a small hole with a grate attached to it should be arranged in the sub-ceiling space, with the help of which moisture from this area will be removed into the room.

If there is ventilation in the sub-ceiling space, in order to organize air circulation between the main ceiling and the suspended or tension material, you should take care of arranging several gratings that will remove excess moisture.

In addition, the arrangement of a small gap, right above the surface of the door, is welcomed, it is this that will help improve natural ventilation and extend the life of the ceiling.

Tip: Some bathroom owners remove thresholds to improve ventilation. It is categorically not recommended to do this, since it is the threshold that protects other rooms from water, in the event of malfunctions leading to a flood.

Please note that any ventilation system needs careful maintenance, the fan and its grill require frequent washing, as a large amount of dust accumulates on their surface. If the fan malfunctions, you should check it for corrosion due to high humidity.

Ventilation in the apartment in the bathroom and how to arrange it

For the installation of ventilation in the bathroom in the apartment, it is not required to build air ducts, since they are mandatory in it.

Installation of the fan, in this case, involves only the installation of the device itself on the surface of the air duct.

If there is a channel in the toilet, between which there is a wall and the bathroom, one or two holes should be made in it, which will help the air circulate evenly.

Please note that some ventilation systems are characterized by the presence of special passages that provide both natural and forced ventilation. This option is the most appropriate, as it has good performance.

If there is no ventilation duct in the room, care should be taken to bring a special box to it, in which the hood will be installed.

In relation to the design features, ventilation ducts are:

made of plastic - they have a round or rectangular cross-section, are distinguished by low noise performance, they transport air well and are easy to install;
corrugated boxes are of two types: hard or soft, they are used with a small distance between the ventilation duct or bathroom.

After mounting the box, a fan is installed in it and checked for operability.

Ventilation pipe in the bathroom. Forced ventilation in the bathroom - types and installation

Organization rules

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

Choice

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

Checking the ventilation duct

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

Bathroom ventilation in a private house

Types of ventilation systems

Fan types

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan

TOP 9 best bathroom fans

Self-installation of ventilation

Elements of the ventilation system

Ventilation system installation

Video: how to independently install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet

Checking the installed system

Exhaust electric fan

Types of bathroom and toilet fans

Hood in the bathroom

Ventilation check

How not to be mistaken with the choice of an exhaust device

Common mistakes when installing ventilation

The importance of ventilation in the bathroom

Norms and requirements

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

Natural

Forced

How to understand that it is necessary to improve the ventilation system

How to improve ventilation in the bathroom

How to make ventilation in the bathroom with your own hands

Natural

Forced

Bathroom ventilation: requirements and functions

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

How to check the ventilation system for performance

DIY bathroom ventilation: choosing a fan

Ventilation scheme in the bathroom, its arrangement

Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house: work in the space under the ceiling

Ventilation in the apartment in the bathroom and how to arrange it