Fertilizers for rhododendron in the spring in the ground. Features of caring for rhododendrons in spring

A plant of the heather family, well known to lovers of growing flowers in courtyard beds, summer cottages or household plots, is rhododendron. The genus unites about six hundred species, most of them are evergreen or deciduous shrubs, although small trees are also found. The now popular azaleas are a subspecies of rhododendrons. In recent years, they have become widespread in greenhouse and indoor floriculture.

spring care

Flower growers love rhododendrons because these flowers do not require too much attention. Proper planting will allow the plant to take root and develop well. In the list of care activities:

• spraying;
• watering;
• top dressing.

For the successful growth and development of plants, top dressing is simply necessary, both for young and old rhododendrons. Only in this case, the plant will delight the owners with beautiful healthy green leaves and bright lush flowers.

A few tips for feeding. First, it is best to apply fertilizer in liquid form. This will ensure faster delivery and better absorption of minerals and nutrients. Secondly, top dressing is obligatory in the first year, when the plant is being formed. Thirdly, rhododendron can signal to the owner about the lack of minerals. Signs - clarification or fall of the leaves, a decrease in their luster, the absence of new shoots and buds.

Types of top dressing

The most popular is organic fertilizer, colloquially manure, but not fresh, aged for a year. It helps to increase the nutritional value of the soil, improves soil properties, in particular, increases moisture permeability and breathability.

Important note: organic fertilizers must be applied diluted (proportion 1:15). To activate microbiological processes, the fertilizer must first be infused, a few days are enough. For good growth and beautiful flowering of rhododendrons, it is necessary to use mineral fertilizers, primarily phosphate fertilizers, such as superphosphate, which must be diluted with water in the proportion indicated on the package.

Since rhododendrons are loyal to acidic soil, it is acceptable to use ammonium sulphate, magnesium sulphate and potassium for fertilizing. First, the plant must be well watered, then fertilize (also in liquid form).

Lovers of these beautiful flowers know that there are special periods when plants need nutrition. The first time it should be done in early spring to support a weakened shrub after winter. The second feeding period is carried out after flowering is completed. Sometimes it is advised to separate the types of feeding. In the spring, nitrogenous mineral fertilizers should be applied. Postpone the introduction of potash and phosphorus fertilizers until the end of flowering.

The choice of fertilizers and feeding methods, of course, remains with the owner of the summer cottage. Rhododendron will respond to care with beautiful lush flowers and emerald greenery.

Rhododendron is a luxurious and profusely flowering shrub that needs regular top dressing to maintain its decorative effect. From my own experience I will say that in addition to fertilizers, he needs a special soil in structure, which has an acidic pH.

How often and with what means should you feed the rhododendron in spring and autumn so that it pleases you with its healthy appearance and lush flowering?

Unfortunately, the decorative period of many shrubs in our garden is not long enough, but there are several varieties of rhododendron that, with well-organized care, will bloom from May to September.

In order to support the plant at this difficult summer stage, it is important to apply top dressing in advance, which will nourish the root system and provide flower stalks and green mass with important trace elements.

Like any garden plant, rhododendron needs nitrogen in spring and sodium, phosphorus and potassium in summer and autumn. Experienced gardeners and nursery owners recommend not using standard complexes, such as superphosphate, but creating their own nutrient mixtures from the following preparations:

• nitrate, phosphate or potassium sulfate;
• calcium sulfate;
• sulfate magnesium or ammonium.

These preparations gently acidify the soil to comfortable PH values ​​​​for rhododendron and constantly maintain the achieved level, preventing the ornamental shrub from getting sick. Combinations of substances are selected depending on seasonality and the purpose of feeding and are diluted in water according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Signs of Element Deficiency

Not always the standard rate of complex and compound fertilizers for rhododendron is enough. In some cases, a plant may experience a pronounced deficiency of a particular mineral or suffer from an excess of elements that are unnecessary for it in the soil.

It is possible to identify the need to introduce a certain element under the rhododendron by specific features:

1. Potassium deficiency is indicated by a pronounced loss of foliage gloss of an ornamental shrub and the appearance of brown patches on the edges of the plates.
2. Yellowing in the spring or faded foliage of rhododendron may indicate a lack of nitrogen in the soil.
3. A persistent lack of phosphorus and potassium leads to a delay in the development of the shrub, as well as to the fading of the buds.
4. If the rhododendron grows on clay soils, even if the seat is filled with the right soil mixture, the ornamental shrub may suffer from an excess of aluminum ions. This problem is manifested in the persistent yellowness of the leaves, which does not respond to top dressing. It will help to correct the situation by watering the near-stem circle with a solution of iron chelate.

It is imperative to eliminate the deficiency of minerals, even if the decorative period of the rhododendron has already ended. Future flower stalks that will delight you next season are laid in July. By this time, the soil at the root system should have enough elements important for the development of ornamental shrubs.

Feeding rules

The root system of the rhododendron is in a successful symbiosis with a special mycorrhiza fungus, which helps the shrub grow on acidic soils and absorb nutrients efficiently.

In order not to destroy this useful "partner", it is necessary to select preparations and water without chlorine for fertilizing ornamental shrubs and watering.

Another feature of the rhododendron root system is its relative compactness. Shrub roots do not grow in different directions, as in most plants, they form a small lump that “pumps out” nutrients from the planting hole.

It is because of this static root system that the rhododendron needs a constant supply of fertilizers to the soil.

What else to pay attention to when fertilizing ornamental shrubs?

1. If the planting of the shrub was carried out in accordance with all the rules, with the laying of a supply of nutrients, it is not necessary to fertilize it in the first year.
2. Young plants are fed with fertilizers only in liquid form, so the food is absorbed by the bushes faster.
3. Choose domestically produced granular preparations - most imported ones are created for use in a warm climate: such spring dressings do not have time to dissolve in the soil in time, which leads to late stimulation of shoot growth. The latter do not have time to prepare for wintering and freeze out.
4. For fertilizing rhododendrons, lime compounds are not used, which will contribute to alkalinization of the soil. Use wood ash with caution; after adding it, a week later, watering with acidified water is required. If this is not done, the ornamental shrub will get sick with chlorosis.
5. Do not abuse superphosphate - the combination of trace elements in this preparation contributes to the gradual washing out of iron from the soil.

When preparing liquid dressings for rhododendron, be sure to follow the proportions recommended by the manufacturer of the mineral fertilizer.

Spring top dressing

Top dressing of rhododendron at the beginning of the season takes place in two stages: they serve to activate the growth of new shoots, stimulate budding and strengthen the root system.

1. The very first top dressing is carried out in early spring, when the shrub wakes up after winter dormancy. In the South of Russia, it is produced in mid-April, and in the middle lane - in early May. As a fertilizer in this period, ammonium nitrate or organic infusions (mullein, chicken manure, mowed grass) are used. These top dressings enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is necessary for the growth of the shrub.
2. The second spring feeding is done 2 weeks after the first. At this stage, elements are introduced into the soil that will help the rhododendron maintain its decorative effect, forming a large number of buds. Most often, gardeners use Azofoska, which includes nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, or create an effective potassium-phosphorus fertilizer on their own (20 g of superphosphate + 20 g of potassium sulfate + 40 g of ammonium sulfate per 1 m 2).

These two stages of top dressing can be done in one day: with the first fertilizer, you spill the near-trunk circle of rhododendron, and 2 hours after absorbing moisture, sprinkle dry top dressing.

The granules will gradually dissolve during irrigation or under the influence of precipitation and release elements important for shrub growth and budding into the soil.

Summer care is no less important for rhododendron. You will learn about how to feed an ornamental shrub after flowering is over from the video:

Top dressing in autumn

Rhododendron, like any perennial shrub, begins to gradually prepare for wintering from mid-August. As air and soil temperatures decrease, as well as the length of daylight hours, the plant starts the processes of reducing the production of growth hormones, increases the degree of production of inhibitors, and slows down the pace of metabolic processes.

By late autumn, the rhododendron, which has prepared for wintering, should not have moisture in the cells of the aerial part, otherwise they will not survive the frost.

In order for all these processes to be completed on time, fertilizing introduced from mid-summer should not contain growth-stimulating elements, in particular, nitrogen.

In autumn, preparations with potassium and phosphorus will help prepare the rhododendron for wintering; nursery owners usually use potassium phosphate in combination with magnesium sulfate (20 g per 1 m 2) for this purpose.

In autumn, you can lay under the shrub and part of the spring top dressing:

• sprinkle 20 g of superphosphate around the trunk circle;
• mulch the soil with a layer of 5 cm from rotted manure;
• sprinkle the trunk circle with three-year compost;
• mulch the ground with dried cake from herbal infusion.

It is possible to use products and preparations containing nitrogen only after the complete transition of the shrub to a state of rest, that is, 2 weeks after the establishment of frosts. If you do not have the opportunity to be on the site during this period, postpone these top dressing until early autumn.

Rhododendron will like the autumn mulching of the near-stem circle with materials that acidify the soil. You can use horse peat, fresh sawdust, pine bark or needles for this purpose.

A layer of 5-8 cm will serve as an additional shelter for the root system and help the shrub survive frosts. In early spring, the mulch should be temporarily removed to avoid retaining perched water and damping off the roots.

Another interesting material for mulching rhododendrons is heather compost, which has been prepared for several years from coniferous needles, heather, dust, sphagnum, sand and high-moor peat.

Its lime-free formula maintains a comfortable soil acidity, while specific fungi help nourish the root system. If you can't find heather compost for sale, you can go to the coniferous forest and remove the topsoil in places where blueberries, blueberries and lingonberries grow.

Such a “treat” for rhododendron can be made not only in the fall - sprinkle nutrient soil every 2 weeks under the shrub throughout the season - and it will definitely thank you for a long period of decorativeness.

Plant rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)- a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including such popular azaleas in indoor floriculture, which received the nickname "indoor rhododendron". The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - a tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses". Azaleas really do look like roses.

In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in South China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in the penumbra of undergrowth and on the northern slopes of mountains. Some rhododendrons are able to grow up to 30 cm in height, while other species are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus vary in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. Garden rhododendron today has about 3000 forms, varieties and varieties.

Choosing a place for planting shrubs

The choice of a place for planting a rhododendron is fundamental to its further proper development. The plant is quite capricious, whimsical and makes its own demands on the level of lighting, humidity, soil composition and neighboring plants.

Rhododendrons love good lighting, but at the same time they cannot be exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, so you need to provide light shading for them.

It is impossible to plant these plants in too shady places, in this case, the already weak growth slows down, and flowering becomes weak or does not occur at all.

Due to the natural features of rhododendrons, if possible, they should be placed near any body of water (pond, stream, pool). If it is absent, then it is necessary to spray the plant until it blooms, this should be done in the morning or evening hours using soft and warm water. During flowering, it should be stopped, as the buds and flowers can become covered with brown spots, which will significantly reduce their decorative effect. At this time, you need to increase the amount of watering.

An excellent option would be to plant a rhododendron near a pine tree. Its root system goes deep into the soil and does not interfere with the good development and flowering of the plant. At the same time, it creates sufficient shading. But maple, alder, linden, willow or birch will greatly dry out and take nutrients from the surface layers of the soil, and it is quite difficult for a rhododendron, which has a more modest size, to resist them. In such cases, it is recommended to insulate the prepared planting hole internally using a non-woven covering material.

Landing Features

The best time for planting rhododendrons is spring. When planted in spring, plants get the opportunity to adapt well and take root in a new place. And you will have the opportunity to admire the first flowering. Plants with a closed root system (in a container) can be planted at a later date.

Landing pits are prepared in advance at the chosen place. The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so even for tall species it is enough to dig a hole about 50 cm deep and 70-80 cm wide. The distance between plants depends on the height and diameter of the crown of the bush and averages from 0.7 to 2 m. Drainage to the bottom pits are required: a layer of broken bricks and sand 15-20 cm, if the landing pit is deep, then the drainage layer increases to 30-40 cm and includes fine gravel or crushed stone (but not lime!).

It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. Therefore, the garden substrate should also be appropriate: a mixture of leafy soil, high-moor peat, coniferous tree litter (3:2:1) with the addition of complete mineral fertilizer: 70 g per pit. The optimum acidity of the soil is 4.5 - 5.0.

Before planting, the root ball of rhododendron taken out of the pot should be well saturated with water. If it is dry, it is immersed in water and wait for the air bubbles to stop emitting. The bush is planted in a pit filled with substrate, making sure that the root neck is not deepened, but is 2-4 cm higher than the soil level, taking into account its precipitation. A near-stem hole with raised edges is made around the bush and watered abundantly.

Rhododendrons have a shallow, sensitive root system (30-40 cm), which develops mainly in the litter and humus horizon. Therefore, mulching material is necessarily poured around the planted bushes, which retains moisture, prevents overheating of the soil and the growth of weeds, protects the roots from mechanical damage, and reduces the depth of soil freezing. Pine bark or chips, coniferous litter, peat are best suited as mulch, while the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm.

plant care

A transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular abundant watering, rhododendron requires spraying on the foliage, especially when planted in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to retain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.

The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, thin hairs, similar to tangled hair, so loosening the soil, especially deep soil, should be excluded from flower care measures. Weeds growing near the plant must be removed periodically.

The appearance of the plant will immediately report a lack or excess of water - the leaves of the rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering is required to be carried out in sufficient quantities, but without overflow, this is one of the main rules for caring for a crop.

To ensure proper care of the rhododendron, it is important to carry out timely pruning of overgrown bushes. Places of cuts to prevent infection of the plant are smeared with paint or garden pitch.

Compliance with simple requirements for caring for a plant will allow you to grow a wonderful flowering bush.

Watering rhododendron

The usual watering rate for rhododendron is 1-1.5 buckets two to three times a week for an adult plant. Young seedlings are watered more often, but not more than 0.5 buckets per 1 bush. During flowering - more often.

If the weather is dry in autumn, the plants should also be watered abundantly. This contributes to better overwintering. In dry and hot weather, the bushes are sprayed with water.

Water should be acidified before watering: the pH of the water should be no more than 4-5 units, otherwise the soil will become alkaline, and the rhododendrons will start to hurt. Under such conditions, they are deficient in nitrogen, which manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the leaves. Then they dry up and the plant dies.

For acidification, you can use concentrated sulfuric acid (1 ml per bucket of water) or oxalic, citric, acetic or other organic acids (3-4 g per bucket of water).

A good solution to this problem is the use of electrolyte for acid batteries. 10-20 ml of electrolyte per bucket of water lowers the pH from 7 to 4-5 units (electrolyte is the same sulfuric acid, only diluted, and therefore there is practically no risk of getting burned).

Secondly, using an electrolyte, we not only acidify the soil, but also introduce one of the vital elements of mineral nutrition for heathers - sulfur.

The soil near the rhododendron bushes should not be loosened, since the root system of rhododendrons lies very close to the surface.

Late spring and early autumn frosts are not dangerous for rhododendrons. Most varieties during the period of active vegetation and flowering are able to withstand temperatures down to -7 degrees. Faded inflorescences must be removed. This prevents the formation of seeds, but allows the plant to use nutrients to lay buds for flowering next year and for the growth of shoots.

At a young age, the removal of inflorescences causes the formation of new branches and a better growth of the bush in width and height. Additional branching can be achieved by removing vegetative buds.

Feeding rhododendron.

It is necessary to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted this year, and the first top dressing is made in early spring, and the last - at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid top dressing from semi-rotted cow dung, horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then is used as a fertilizer. Water the rhododendron before fertilizing.

Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, in order not to disturb the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, nitrate, sulphate or potassium phosphate, calcium sulphate and magnesium in a very low concentration of 1.2: 1000 from mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potash fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the introduction of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m², and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added per 1 m².

Pests and diseases of rhododendron.

Of the pests, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs, bother rhododendrons most of all. Gastropod molluscs are harvested by hand, and as a preventive measure, treatment of rhododendron with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Tiram, is used. Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, as well as weevils are destroyed by treatment with diazinon, and in the event of damage to the rhododendron by the weevil, the topsoil will also have to be treated with an insecticide. The rest of the insects are exterminated with karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the preparation.

Of the diseases, rhododendrons are most often pursued by fungal diseases - leaf spot, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They arise, as a rule, as a result of poor aeration of the roots. Spotting and rust are destroyed by preparations of copper sulfate, in particular Bordeaux liquid. Chlorosis, from which the rhododendron turns yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove diseased shoots or cut them to healthy tissue, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid in early spring and late autumn.

Features of reproduction of the shrub rhododendron

Reproduction of rhododendrons is carried out using cuttings, green layering, seeds, or simply by dividing an overgrown bush.

Cuttings are carried out in early summer. To do this, cut the required number of cuttings about fifteen centimeters long and remove the bottom sheets from them. After that, they are placed for a day in a container with a growth stimulator solution. Then they are rooted in a soil substrate, which includes coniferous soil, peat and coarse sand in equal parts. After that, they are covered with glass jars and placed in a bright room with an air temperature of at least twenty-five degrees. After two or three months, the seedlings form a root system and in the spring they can be planted in the garden at a permanent place of growth.

For this method of reproduction, you need to dig a hole next to an adult plant in the spring to a depth of about fifteen centimeters. Tilt the young shoot, and fix its middle part in the hole, for example, with wire. Then you need to fill it with soil, and tie the upper part to a small stick. Usually, in the fall, the layering takes root and begins to grow. The following spring, it must be separated from the main plant and transplanted.

An overgrown rhododendron bush can be divided into parts and seated in separate planting pits. With proper care, such plants produce a large number of young shoots a year later, branch well, quickly gain decorative properties and bloom.

Seed propagation is rarely used. because it is a very complex and lengthy process. The formation of a full-fledged plant and the onset of the first flowering have to wait at least three years, making many transplants of young seedlings during this time. In addition, if they are not constantly properly cared for, they can result in deformed or weakened seedlings.

Wintering in the open field

In order to save rhododendrons in the winter, they need to create an appropriate shelter. First you need to insulate the roots of the plant. To do this, create a protective layer of peat or dry foliage about fifteen centimeters thick. Then arcs are installed above the bushes, and they are tightened with non-woven covering material. After the air temperature is set at minus ten degrees, the shelter is covered with a thick film and fixed again with arcs from above. If possible, you can later fill the structure with snow.

With the onset of spring, the shelter is removed, but this should be done gradually. It can be completely removed only after the soil has warmed up well and preferably on a cloudy day so that the bright sun does not burn the tender young leaves. Compliance with these wintering conditions guarantees good growth and very abundant flowering.

Rhododendrons in garden design

Rhododendrons are suitable for decorating a garden of any style. They look equally good as growing single copies, and as part of a group composition. A good combination for them can be conifers and plants that are common in the wild, such as juniper or fern.

Undersized species with different flowering periods can decorate alpine slides and rocky gardens. In this case, the proximity of heather and gentian is well suited for planting rhododendrons.

Higher bushes and trees form hedges. They ennoble garden paths and lawns. In this case, for rhododendrons with yellow flowers, plants with red or bright orange buds are suitable as companions. But specimens with pink or purple inflorescences will be effectively shaded by plants with white flowers.

Useful properties of rhododendron

Rhododendron is a very useful plant and its uses are varied. Grown as ornamental flowers and used in various industries. But some of them are most invaluable for human health. Rhododendrons Adams, Dahurian, golden, yellow, Caucasian, Ungern are applicable in medicine due to the content of andromedotoxin, rhododendrin, erikolin, arbutin. Long-term studies have shown that the biochemical composition of these plants is enormous.

Ascorbic acid was found in the leaves, an increased concentration of this vitamin is observed in the summer months. The undeniable advantages are the presence of volatile, bactericidal and insecticidal properties of rhododendrons. In almost all parts, tannins of the pyrocatechin group were found. There is no doubt that the plants are unique and many of them have medicinal properties, in addition they are used for the production of perfumes, they contain essential oils, have a strong smell of flowers, leaves and branches.

Means with rhododendron have antipyretic, diaphoretic, analgesic properties. The composition of the leaves is not so harmless - tannins, arbutin, rutin, poisonous glycoside (andromedotoxin) require special care in their use. Almost all types of rhododendrons choose cliffs, rocky slopes, sandy river banks for habitat. They are harvested during the flowering period, dried under a canopy, laid out in a thin layer.

Rhododendron contraindications

Rhododendrons are able to cope with diseases, the treatment of which is ineffective in other ways. Before use, it is advisable to consult a doctor. The beneficial properties of infusions and decoctions will have a beneficial effect only if the dosage is strictly observed! The plant is contraindicated for children, pregnant women, with tissue necrosis, serious kidney diseases.

Varieties of rhododendron

Highly ornamental woody plants, incredibly graceful, rich in flower color and flowering splendor. There are about 1300 wild species, and more than 600 varieties are used in horticulture. Rhododendrons are extraordinary during flowering. The medicinal properties of only a few species are known.

Dahurian rhododendron grows wild in Siberia and the Far East. Its height can reach 2 m, has short leaves, blooms in May. Siberian healers prescribe an infusion of leaves as a diaphoretic, diuretic, and analgesic. The ability of the infusion to reduce the excitability of the central nervous system, enhance cardiac activity is manifested.

With its help, it is possible to lower blood pressure, it has a dilating effect on the coronary vessels, regulates shortness of breath. Dahurian rhododendron root is used for dysentery. Substances hyperosil, avicularin, azaleatin, resins and essential oils in alcohol extracts act depressingly on the activity of pathogenic bacteria and infections in the human body.

Rhododendron Adams popular among Siberian hunters, brewed tea from the leaves improves mood, relieves fatigue, tones up and gives energy.

The plant has a pleasant aroma, similar to strawberry, after drying, the smell remains. Rhododendron Adams is mentioned in Tibetan treatises as a stimulant plant with tonic and adaptive properties. Essential oil containing farnesene, nerolidol, germacron is present in the leaves.

Young shoots contain ursolic and oleanolic acids, triterpenoids and flavone derivatives. Mongolian healers recommended the plant in the treatment of cholera, diphtheria and for the destruction of streptococci. Infusions and decoctions are used for external use - washing infected wounds, ulcers, rinsing the mouth and throat.

Infusion of Rhododendron Adams: pour 1 teaspoon of raw materials with a liter of boiling water, leave for 30 minutes and drink 1/3 cup 3 times a day, before meals.

Japanese rhododendron low bush, winter-hardy. Blooms in May-June. There are many varieties of this species. Parts of the plant contain andromedotoxin, a methyl ester of orsellic acid. This type of plant is studied in detail while it is used for the manufacture of furniture, joinery and turning products.

Caucasian rhododendron grows in the nature of the mountains of the Caucasus, it contains glycosides, saponins, tannins. The leaves also contain polysaccharides, ketones, essential oils, phenolic acids. Healers use the Caucasian rhododendron as an antirheumatic remedy. Bronchitis and infectious diseases are successfully treated. The useful properties of this species are used in gynecology. Extracts on water in the form of rinses are effective for problems with the gums, for the treatment of sore throats, stomatitis. Caucasian rhododendron is an excellent honey plant.

Rhododendron deciduous has many types: Canadian, Ledebour, Japanese, Costerianum, pink, gooey, Vaseya, yellow. During the flowering period, any of them decorates the gardens with bright colors. Incomparable rhododendrons bloom in spring and early summer, bewitching with an abundance of flowers.

Rhododendron hybrid includes many evergreen varieties - Azurro, Homer Waterer, Katevbinsky, Hackmanns, Bernstein, Brigitte, Golbuket and many others. Shrubs bloom in June.

Rhododendron Schlippenbach grows in the south of Primorsky Krai, in the countries of East Asia. This beautiful deciduous plant, which lives in deciduous forests and on dry rocky slopes, takes root well in gardens, although it grows slowly. In addition to the fact that the shrub is incredibly beautiful, it is also a useful medicinal plant that is very much appreciated in oriental, Tibetan, Indian medicine.

At present, its narcotic, antispasmodic, hemostatic, astringent action is known. It is used in folk medicine as a stimulant of sexual activity and a diuretic.

Rhododendron pink originally from Canada, winter-hardy, unpretentious. It develops well in both wet and dry climates, belongs to deciduous varieties. Likes bright places, slightly acidic, loose soils. Although the flowers are small, there are many of them and they form a magnificent hat.

golden rhododendron, perhaps more often than other species is used in the treatment of many diseases. It is used for insomnia, nervousness. An infusion from the plant relieves swelling, headaches, relaxes muscles during convulsive manifestations.

Rhododendron infusion recipe: 2 g of dry crushed raw materials are poured into a thermos, poured with 1 glass of boiling water and infused for 2 hours. Strained drink is consumed 1 tablespoon 2-3 times a day.

Russian botanist I. Gmelin noted that a decoction of the leaves helps during the transitions in the mountains from fatigue and muscle pain. In patients with cardiovascular insufficiency, when taking a tincture from a plant, an increase in blood flow velocity is observed, and the work of the heart is normalized.

Recipe for tincture of rhododendron: fill 1/5 of a glass container with raw materials and fill to the top with alcohol or vodka. Leave for two weeks. Drink 10-15 drops, diluted with water (0.5 cup).

Indoor rhododendron has a shallow root system, so it is advisable to grow it in wide, shallow pots. Like all rhododendrons, it loves an acidic environment, drained soil rich in humus and potassium. In the summer, the plant should be kept in a shady corner of the balcony without drafts, spraying the leaves regularly.

Heat-loving and tender rhododendrons or rose trees, whose homeland is the Mediterranean, in the middle latitudes require more careful care and compliance with agricultural technology.

Flowers in the form of bells, collected in inflorescences from 3 to 10 pieces in one during flowering spread the aroma. The flowering period is not long: only 2 - 3 weeks in the spring. In favorable conditions, the shrub grows up to 2 meters, but more often the height of the plant does not exceed a meter.

Conditions for growing rosewood

Rhododendrons love acidic soils, but grow well in slightly acidic ones. They do not like wind, scorching rays of the sun and drafts. Therefore, before planting a rhododendron, you need to assess your site in terms of soil pH and the presence of large trees in the shade of which you can hide a rose tree. It is also desirable that the shrub be closed on the north side by a wall, so the most favorable place is near the fence or behind the house.

Stagnation of water badly affects the roots and, as a result, the quality of flowering. If there is a hill near the house, this place should be suitable for a rhododendron.

Landing

For a seedling bought in a store, a pit up to 1 meter deep and 60 cm wide is being prepared. This is necessary in order to add a substrate for feeding rhododendron, which consists of humus, peat and coniferous needles.

The root system should fit freely in the hole. The earth in a pot must first be soaked and left for an hour so that the tree receives the necessary moisture. For better survival, stimulants are added so that the plant tolerates the transplant better. We must not forget that this tree takes root with difficulty, so it is better to play it safe.

The rose tree is transplanted to the same depth at which the root collar was in the purchased container. After sprinkling with earth, the place is well watered, and mulched to preserve moisture. Coniferous litter or bark is suitable for this purpose.

Important! On neutral soils, water for irrigation of rhododendrons is specially acidified. Suitable vinegar, oxalic or sulfuric acid, diluted in 3% concentration

Planting is best done in spring or in the first half of summer, so that the shrub has time to take root and new shoots become woody by the onset of autumn. If transplanted later, then starting from August, abundant watering is reduced so that new branches do not grow, otherwise they will freeze before they can be covered with tree bark.

For planting choose two-year or three-year-old bushes. Before buying, they inspect the root system: it should not have extraneous inclusions, swelling, weeping areas. The leaves should be dark green in color, without spots.

Care

The most vulnerable spot of the rhododendron is its root system. It is located in the upper layers of the soil and cannot get water and nutrients from deep horizons. Therefore, around the tree, weeds must be periodically removed, which take away food from the plant, as well as the water it needs. Loosening is carried out carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Due to the high acidity of the soil, which is a necessary condition for growth, the plant may become deficient in iron or manganese. To do this, use special solutions of trace elements for feeding rhododendron. Important: solutions should not contain calcium, otherwise the pH of the soil will increase and the plant will wither.

Rhododendron needs winter shelter, as it does not tolerate frost well. Even the most cold-resistant varieties are covered with special material. Before shelter, you need to build a frame of boards so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.

Rules for feeding rhododendron

Any fertilizer for rhododendrons - mineral or organic, containing calcium, is not suitable for rosewood. It is impossible to lime the soil and use ash, since calcium is contained in large quantities in the ash solution. Rhododendron leaves may begin to turn yellow due to chlorosis.

Mineral supplements

From mineral fertilizers, it is better to use special mixtures to maintain the desired soil acidity. Such mixtures are sold in gardening stores or supermarkets. Flower lovers who have been growing rhododendrons for a long time have noticed that it is better not to use imported mixtures, as they are designed for plants cultivated in warm climates.

In the southern regions, the growth of new shoots is not a problem, since the rose tree does not experience temperature changes. In the middle lane, when using foreign mineral fertilizers, rhododendrons begin to actively grow branches that do not have time to be covered with a protective bark and freeze out in winter.

If such mixtures are used, then only once - in the spring. How to feed the rhododendron in the fall, you need to choose from domestic fertilizers or combine them yourself.

Video: How to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons

To maintain acidity at 4.5 - 5.5 only acidic substances are used:

• sulfate, phosphate or potassium nitrate;

• calcium sulfate;

• ammonium sulphate;

• superphosphate.

Also magnesium sulphate. Substance concentration per 1,000 ml of water should be no more than 2 grams. Potash - 1/1 000.

The lack of nutrients can be determined by the appearance of the foliage, the lack of growth of new shoots. The resulting buds may stop growing or the plant will drop them: this indicates a deficiency of minerals, in which the plant loses its strength and is not able to bloom. It is important to maintain a balance of nutrients. They are brought in as a complex.

Clay soils contain more aluminum salts, which causes leaf chlorosis.

Chelated forms of iron, for example, Ferovit, will help correct the situation. Do not use iron sulphate. In rhododendrons, it causes leaf burns. On the other hand, rosewood is deficient in iron when the pH is raised.

Therefore, watering is carried out with soft water, preferably rainwater, which does not contain lime and does not alkalize the soil. If in other plants signs of chlorosis appear at a soil pH above 7, then in rhododendrons it is noticeable after 6 units.

Purchased formulations such as Kemira or RhodoAzalia AZ are the best fertilizers for rosewood. With self-mixing, take 40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of ammonium sulfate and potassium for each adult tree.

Rosewood Organic Fertilizers

It is strictly forbidden to bring chicken droppings, pig and horse manure under rhododendrons. Mullein is useful only in rotted form. It is scattered over the snow so that the nutrients get into the soil with melt water.

It is completely impossible to do without organic matter, because organic residues serve as food for soil microorganisms, without which soil characteristics deteriorate and deplete.

In liquid form, nutrients are absorbed faster by the plant, so the mullein is brought in in the form of a solution at a concentration of 1/20, that is, 1 liter of manure and 20 liters of water. Infuse for a week and water the moist soil under the roots.

Horn shavings are made from the horns and hooves of cattle. Contains phosphorus and nitrogen in the ratio of 1/3, which is suitable for the spring-summer season under the rosewood. Feeding rhododendrons with horn flour in autumn is not desirable, since in the middle lane nitrogen fertilizers have a detrimental effect on shoots. It is applied dry and provides nutrients to the plant throughout the season.

Fertilization scheme

Newly planted bushes do not need additional nutrition, since a sufficient amount of nutrients was introduced during transplantation. From the second year, you can begin to fully fertilize rhododendrons.

First dressing

How to feed rhododendron in spring:

• Azofoska- complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Shoot growth begins in May, so in mid-April you need to scatter granules around the trunk of 20 - 30 g per plant.

• In the spring it is useful to add organic matter in the form of compost or rotted manure. Available in liquid form.

• Used as a nitrogen fertilizer ammonium nitrate.

Top dressing is applied in advance so that the substances have time to dissolve in the soil.

Second top dressing

A month passes between the first and second feeding of rhododendrons. When the buds begin to tie, you can again use the azophos.

The mixture stimulates the growth of roots, strengthens shoots and leaves. The presence of potassium supports the buds preparing for flowering. The second top dressing is very important, as budding can stop due to nutrient deficiencies.

Third top dressing

After flowering ends in late June and early July, the bush should recover and begin to prepare for the next season. For this, the plant needs potassium and phosphorus in order for vegetative buds to form in sufficient quantities. For the third stage, it is enough to mix 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

LANDING AND CARE

Landing. Everyone who is engaged or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises, when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most suitable time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic is spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when young shoots have finished growing and strengthened. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding periods of flowering and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of rhododendron transplant times is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike other ornamental trees and shrubs, the root system is practically not damaged during transplantation, the connection between the plant roots and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the landing site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow just as well as in the old one. In long-term plantings, only healthy plants with a well-developed compact root system should be planted. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Already before purchasing rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be reserved for their planting, and it is best to be guided by the landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be prepared accordingly.

Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, the soil should be carefully prepared. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group, a landing pit of the required size is prepared, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near large trees, the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. 1/2 of the pit is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of the substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can also be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The landing site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. 15.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - Properly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared pit, they dig a cell corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the top of the root ball is covered with a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation after transplantation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading during irrigation, a small mulch roller is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much-needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left, so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.

With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

With proper care, rhododendrons bloom profusely and bear fruit every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break out a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent down, holding it with the thumb and forefinger. At the same time, the fragile axis of the inflorescence breaks easily at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.

top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time, even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require top dressing, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners at best used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that rhododendrons did not tolerate them. With the expansion of knowledge on the mineral nutrition of plants in nurseries, they began to carefully apply mineral fertilizers to feed rhododendrons. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality planting material for rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations in a permanent place also need to be fed. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.

Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of the specialists of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. P. Stuchka and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.

What external signs of rhododendrons indicate a lack of nutrients? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, flower buds are not laid, in August and early September there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and common of organic fertilizers are old semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, which are characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process takes longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for top dressing. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water to a light brown color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.

If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the surface of the soil around each plant with a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate the soil, and the plants receive the necessary top dressing.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, so with a small amount of them, a lot of the nutrients needed by plants are introduced into the soil. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for top dressing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (potassium fertilizer solution should be even weaker). For fertilizing rhododendrons, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used. You need to start feeding plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity, soil and air can cause secondary growth of shoots. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 RO 4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 PO 4 are taken per 10 liters of water. A solution is obtained that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7) .

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m 2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can carry out top dressing in a slightly different way: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with mineral fertilizer solutions is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of covered ground rhododendrons. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds.

KONDRATOVICH "RODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)