Wall clock repair - mechanism replacement. Malfunctions of wall, quartz and electronic clocks Arrangement of gears quartz wall clock diagram
Let's analyze the fault detection procedure using the example of a quartz watch, which, in addition to three hands, has a "day of the week - date" calendar. This is not the most primitive watch, but not a complex multifunctional one, the repair of which, depending on the model, needs to be discussed separately. Qualified repair is impossible without a professional tool. Therefore, we will assume that our workshop is equipped with a device such as Q-test 4000, Q-test 6000 or similar, which allows you to check not only the accuracy of the clock, but also some other parameters, and a device for testing tightness, such as Waterproof Checker.
Face control
When determining the defect, it is necessary to take into account the complaints of the client, but in any case, the watchmaker must check the watch completely.
Let's start with an external examination. In some cases, even without opening the watch, it is possible to establish the cause of the malfunction. If the watch is under warranty, then a thorough external examination will avoid problems in communicating with the client and reduce the loss of money. It is especially important in this case to determine whether the watch was worn or not opened.
To do this, inspect the case and bracelet for small scratches, nicks, abrasions of the coating, etc. We pay special attention to the lock of the bracelet: first of all, wear marks usually appear on the clasp. We examine the glass for scratches, chips (especially along the contour). Very often, even after several weeks of wear, small chips form along the edge of the glass. We check the operation of the fastener - whether it works, whether it warps when fastening. All detected shortcomings are shown to the client and we enter the condition of the watch in the receipt of acceptance.
To determine if the watch has not been opened before us, we look for dents or scratches on the cover and watch case. However, having found traces of an autopsy on a supposedly warranty watch, do not rush to sin on the client. Once, when we sold only domestic "mechanics", there could not be any scratches on the cover of the new watch. Now the situation is more complicated. It is quite common for quartz watches to have a pre-sale battery replacement, in which case the warranty watch will show signs of tampering. To refuse a person in the warranty repair of such watches is wrong. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to traces of an unskilled autopsy. As a rule, workshops dealing with
warranty repair and pre-sales preparation, have normal equipment that does not leave marks. But if the watch was opened with scissors, then there can be no question of any warranty repair.
The next step is to check the tightness. All watches received for repair must be checked for tightness in front of the client - in many cases this will later avoid disputes with the client and loss of time and money. Restoration of tightness, especially if there is no leak detector in the workshop, is a very long work, for which the client of big money, as a rule, is not inclined to pay.
The tightness must be checked in two modes: at the maximum pressure for which the watch is designed, and at low pressure, about 0.2 atm. Double checking is especially relevant for Japanese watches. The fact is that their water resistance of the head is ensured by an oil seal located on the head sleeve. The head hole is not a cylinder, but rather a cone. The higher the pressure, the more the stuffing box is pressed into the body and the better the seal. It turns out a paradox: at high pressure, the watch holds water, and at low pressure it can pass.
To accurately determine the defect, the watch must be opened. But if the equipment is available, it is possible to determine the approximate location of the malfunction without opening it.
The Q-test has two sensors to measure watch accuracy: capacitive and inductive. We measure the accuracy on both sensors. The inductive one is triggered by the electromagnetic field created by the stepper motor coil. If there are pulses, then we can clearly say that the electronic unit and the coil are working (but this does not mean that they are fully operational!). If there are no 32 kHz pulses on the inductive sensor, but there are pulses on the capacitive one, then without opening the clock, we can say with a very high degree of certainty that the coil is faulty.
Often the reason for stopping the mechanism is a malfunction of the calendar. Therefore, if the device showed that the electronic unit and the coil seem to be working, we check the calendar before opening.
We do this in two stages. First, by translating the arrows, we check how it works. In the vast majority of modern watches, the date switches in two stages: first, the disk starts to move slowly, and then jumps sharply, with a click. If this sharp jump is not on at least one of the teeth, then something is interfering with the disk. At the second stage, we check the operation of the accelerated correction mechanism.
In different watches, accelerated calendar adjustment is done in different ways. To check, we set the time to approximately 4-5 o'clock in the morning, so that we are guaranteed to leave the restricted area, and, according to the rules of this watch, we translate the date.
Sometimes on analog quartz watches, a malfunction of the wheel system can be determined by a slight twitch of the second hand.
So, we have done all the troubleshooting work that can be done without opening the watch. It's time to open the lid and study the mechanism in more detail.
An autopsy will show
In a quartz watch, first of all, we look at the state of the power source, i.e. check the voltage on the battery. Most repair instructions say that the voltage should be at least 1.45 V. I believe that if the battery in the watch brought in for repair gives less than 1.5 V, it is better to play it safe and replace it.
Undervoltage can have various manifestations. A stepper motor will typically stop working at 1.35V, 1.25V in the best hours, while the generator may continue to run below 1V. That is, the generator and coil will pulse, but they will be weak to to drive the wheel drive.
We install the battery in place, and now, in the opened clock, we check the operation of the generator using capacitive and inductive sensors.
If the capacitive sensor shows the presence of pulses, but the inductive one does not, then there is almost certainly a problem in the coil.
If both sensors show the presence of pulses, we conduct a detailed study of the parameters of the electronic unit. To do this, we again take out the battery, push the head to the extreme position and measure the current consumed by the electronic unit. In this position of the head, the generator continues to work, and the coil and divider stages, which have significant consumption, are turned off. This is the own current consumed by the unit. For each mechanism, this parameter is individual and is indicated in the documentation, but in the vast majority of cases it should not exceed 0.4-0.5 μA, and in simple watches - 0.25 μA. High unit current may cause the battery to drain quickly or the clock to stop. If the current is above normal, the unit must be replaced. Theoretically, you can try to clean the tracks if the leak is due to dirt, or do something else, but, in a good way, the block needs to be changed.
Trying to repair anything in the block is almost pointless. It consists of a microcircuit, quartz, a constant capacitor and a board with tracks. If corrosion has eaten the tracks, theoretically they can be restored, but this is a difficult and unprofitable business. The microcircuit in most watches is filled with compound and cannot be soldered.
A resonator malfunction can be caught using the device. The accuracy of all modern watches should not be worse than 6-10 seconds per day. If the device shows a deviation of 20-30 s / day, then this indicates a malfunction of the quartz. But changing it is almost useless. Firstly, it is far from always possible to unsolder it: about 80% of watches have not soldered, but welded quartz. Secondly, usually a quartz resonator has a frequency not exactly 32768 Hz, but somewhat different. The microcircuit, quartz and capacitor are matched to each other, and by replacing the crystal with another one with a different frequency, we can get very poor accuracy. Replacing quartz can only make sense in mechanisms that have a tuning capacitor that regulates the frequency of oscillations.
If the current is within the normal range, we check the coil, first of all, the resistance. It should be in the region of 2 KΩ (usually in the range from 1.4 KΩ to 2.5 KΩ, more precisely, you need to look at the documentation). Less resistance is a sign of an internal circuit in the coil, more - a break. In any case, the coil must be replaced.
After that, we check the coil for shorting to ground. To do this, we measure the resistance between each of the contact pads of the coil and the ground. It must be greater than 1 MΩ.
We push the head into place and measure the total current of the mechanism. If the electronic unit and the coil are in good condition, and the current consumption is greater than the norm, then the cause of the malfunction is in the mechanical part of the watch. A small excess (about 1.5 times the norm) indicates the presence of dirt, mote, etc. in wheel drive. Usually in this case, the client complains about time failures: backlog, temporary stop. More - 2-3 times higher than the norm - consumption, as a rule, is associated with jamming of the wheels.
Thus, we checked the electrical and electronic parts of the mechanism. Let's move on to mechanical. We disassemble and inspect it, just like in a mechanical watch. As a rule, the reasons for stopping are the same as in mechanics: a fluff that has fallen, corrosion, a jammed tooth, etc. Only the power of a stepper motor is less than in a mechanical watch, so any mote is more critical.
The only feature of quartz watches is the presence of a rotor - a magnet. If metal shavings, a mote, get into the watch, it will eventually be attracted to the rotor of the stepper motor. Moreover, she will not remain motionless on it, but will “walk”, move along it under the influence of magnetic fields. And at some point, it can stop the rotation of the engine.
Chapter 3
This is the name of a wrist electronic-mechanical watch with a quartz generator (Fig. 9).
Rice. 9. Kinematic diagram of quartz watch ELF 3050:
1 - transfer head;
2 - transfer shaft;
3 - latch;
4 - wings;
5 - an asterisk with a wheel;
6 - bill of exchange wheel;
7 - clock wheel;
8 - tribe of the minute hand;
9 - central wheel with a tube;
10 - stepper motor rotor;
11 - stepper motor stator;
12 - stepper motor tribe;
13 - gear wheel;
14 - second wheel with tribe;
15 - intermediate wheel;
16 - transfer wheel;
17 - cam clutch;
18 - winding lever;
19 - transfer lever with a pin;
20 - backstage spring
A quartz oscillator is a source of highly stable oscillations located in an electronic unit.
The crystal oscillator block is a printed circuit board with a quartz resonator, an integrated circuit and passive elements placed on it. The block is connected to the platinum with screws. The actuating device in the clock is a stepper motor, made in the form of an autonomous unit. The battery ensures at least 12 months of continuous watch operation.
The principle of operation and the kinematic scheme of the clock are as follows: the electrical signal of the quartz oscillator is subjected to division of its frequency and, after the formation of the pulse, is fed to the stepper motor. The pulse repetition rate is 1 Hz. The stepper motor, in turn, converts successive electrical impulses into intermittent rotation of the main wheel system.
Through the wheel system, the rotation of the motor shaft is transmitted to the hands and the calendar device (if any).
The stepper motor pinion (12) is engaged with the transmission wheel (13), the pinion of which drives the seconds wheel (14). From the tribe of the second wheel through the intermediate wheel (15) with the tribe, the rotation is transmitted to the central wheel (9). The pointer mechanism consists of a minute hand tribe (8), a bill wheel (6) with a pinion, and an hour wheel (7).
The transfer shaft (2) with the head (1) can take two fixed positions. If the clock has a calendar device, then the transfer shaft will be designed for three positions.
In order to translate the hands, it is necessary to put the transfer head in the second fixed position. The cam clutch (17) must then engage with the transfer wheel (16). Further, the rotation is transferred to the pointer mechanism.
During the transfer of the arrows, the lock lever, mechanically connected to the transfer shaft, stops the transfer wheel and prevents the movement of the wheel system and the stepper motor during the transfer of the arrows. After the arrows are set and when the transfer head returns to its original position, the lever returns to its normal position, ensuring the start of the stepper motor.
Watch disassembly
Loosen the locking ring and remove the housing cover.
Unscrew the battery spring screw, remove the spring and carefully, preferably with tweezers, pull out the battery, taking it only by the cylindrical part of the case.
Insert a battery into the mechanism and use a tester to check that the electronic unit is working.
The positive probe of the tester is connected to the platinum of the clock mechanism, and the negative probe is connected in turn to the contacts for connecting the stepper motor. In this case, the arrow of the device should deviate to 1.4–1.5 V and oscillate within 1–2 mm with an interval of 2 s. If there are no such fluctuations, replace the electronic unit.
Then determine the health of the stepper motor. To do this, the tester switch must be set to the resistance measurement position.
Connect the tester probes to the contacts (terminals) of the stepper motor and measure the resistance of the coils, which should be within 3-4 kOhm.
Connect one tester probe to the clock platinum, and the second to one of the outputs of the stepper motor.
In this case, the arrow of the instrument should be in the left extreme position of the instrument scale. Repeat the same with the other output. If, during measurement, the arrow deviates to the right, then the stepper motor coil is closed to the housing. This engine needs to be replaced.
Remove the electronic block. To do this, unscrew the screw securing the current conductor, remove the insulating washer, unscrew the two screws securing the block to the platinum, carefully lift the block with tweezers, move it to the side and remove it from the speakers.
Press the transfer shaft stand, pull the shaft out of the housing, and then the entire mechanism.
Loosen the screws securing the stepper motor bridge. Remove the bridge, then unscrew the two screws securing the stepper motor and carefully pull it out using tweezers.
When removing and installing a stepper motor, you can use only brass tweezers, and only plastic ones for the power source.
Next, disassemble the switch mechanism. To do this, you need to remove the hands, two screws of the dial, the dial, three screws, the bridge, the hour, bill and transfer wheel and the minute hand pinion. Then remove the calendar device, if present.
Disassemble the main wheel system. To do this, unscrew the screws and remove the bridge.
After disassembling the mechanism, the parts should be cleaned. All parts are washed, except for the power source, stepper motor, dial, case glasses, inserts, quartz oscillator block and painted hands. All of the listed parts, except for the stepper motor, are cleaned with a soft hair brush.
Watch assembly
Install the central wheel with tube (9), the minute hand pinion (8).
Press the central tube into the hole of the minute hand tribe, then check the smoothness of rotation of the central wheel, as well as its axial and radial clearances. Lubricate all seats on the center tube.
Assemble the wheel system. This is done in the following order: install the intermediate wheel (15) with pinion, gear (13) and second (14) wheels with pinions and the axle of the main wheel system so that the lock lever brake enters the groove of the axle, fix the axle with screws. Check the gaps of the intermediate and second wheels with pinions and the smoothness of rotation of the system.
Assemble the transfer mechanism. To do this, install the transfer lever (19), the clutch lever and the cam clutch itself (17), as well as the transfer shaft (2).
Check the smooth rotation of the shaft in the platinum, install the lock lever and lubricate all parts.
Install the minute wheel with pinion, transmission wheel, bridge and fix it with screws.
Install the clock wheel (7).
Install spring washer and dial. Fasten the dial with screws, and then install the hour, minute and second hands. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the position of the transfer shaft; when installing the hour and minute hands, the shaft must be in the position of the translation of the arrows.
Using the transfer shaft, move the hands to the number 12 and set the second hand, matching its position with the divisions of the dial.
The minute, second and hour hands should be set with little effort so as not to disturb the established vertical clearances in the main wheel system.
Insert the mechanism, mechanism fastening ring, transfer shaft into the body.
Install the crystal oscillator block, stepper motor and power supply. The stepper motor mounting screw must not be overtightened.
Close the housing cover. After the assembly is completed, the stepper motor should immediately start its work, this will be seen by the movement of the second hand.
Oversized quartz watch
As an example, we will consider the mechanism of a desktop electronic-mechanical clock with a quartz resonator (Fig. 10).
Rice. 10. Structural diagram of quartz watch "Yantar" 59206:
1 - battery;
2 - terminals;
3 - nuts for fastening the gearbox;
4 - rear axle;
5 - locking device;
6 - screws for fastening the stepper motor;
7 - stepper motor tribe;
8 - coil mounting screws;
9 - stepper motor;
10 - bill of exchange wheel;
11 - columns;
12 - clock wheel;
13 - panel;
14 - transfer shaft;
15 - central wheel;
16 - spring;
17 and 19 - intermediate wheels first and second;
18 - front axle;
20 - second wheel;
21 - electronic block;
22 - screws for fastening the electronic unit
The mechanism consists of a stepper motor, the main wheel system, a battery and an electronic unit.
The quartz clock generator starts working when the batteries are connected to the electronic unit. A stepper motor (9) is used to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy. From the tribe (7) through the first intermediate wheel (17) the rotation is transmitted to the second wheel (20). On the axis of the second wheel is a second hand. In order to set the minute hand in motion, the rotation is transmitted further, through the second intermediate wheel (19) and the central wheel (15), on the sleeve of which the minute hand is fixed.
The movement from the central wheel is transmitted to the bill wheel (10), and from there to the clock wheel (12). The central wheel assembly is equipped with a special device that allows you to coordinate the readings of the minute and hour hands. To set the exact time and translate the minute and hour hands, a transfer shaft (14) is used.
To set the second hand to the exact time, the second hand stop device (5) is used.
Watch disassembly
Remove the cover and remove the battery and terminals.
Remove the electronic block (21); to do this, firstly, unscrew the two screws (22) securing the electronic unit in order to disconnect it from the speakers of the panel (13) and the bridge (4); second, disconnect the electrical connector.
Remove stepper motor (9); To do this, unscrew the two screws (6) that secure the stepper motor to the panel speakers.
Loosen the two nuts (3) securing the gearbox.
Remove the rear axle (4), second wheel (20), first (17) and second (19) intermediate wheels.
Remove the second hand lock (5), front axle (18), center wheel (15), bill wheel (10), hour wheel (12).
Remove spring (16) and transfer shaft (14).
Remove the speakers (11) by unscrewing the two nuts securing the speakers to the front side of the panel.
Disassemble the stepper motor if necessary. To do this, remove the stepper motor rotor assembly, unscrew the two screws securing the coil and remove it. After disassembly, all parts of the stepper motor and gearbox, except for the coil, must be washed in gasoline. To wash the axis of the motor rotor, it is necessary to remove the coils and the rotor, and the washing itself should be carried out with the assembled magnetic circuits.
The main malfunction of a stepper motor, as a rule, is a broken coil wire. Repair is possible only if the outer end of the wire is broken. The repair procedure is as follows: dissolve the varnish of the coil with amyl acetate near the broken end so that there is enough length to stretch the wire. Then use a soldering iron to remove the remaining wire from the terminal. Make 2-3 turns around this terminal and solder the wire again.
Dampen the brush in a mixture of alcohol and gasoline and clean the soldering area, and then varnish it.
The most common malfunctions of the electronic watch unit are the failure of the integrated circuit and the quartz resonator. These nodes are best replaced.
Defects in the main wheel system are corrected in the same way as in a mechanical watch.
Assembling and adjusting the clock mechanism
Install two columns (11). Put the spring (16) on the right column and fix its position with the support pin. Then put the front axle (18) on the same column; The bend of the spring must fit into the groove of the bridge.
Insert the first intermediate wheel (17) into the hole in the axle with the pinion up. Put a washer and a spherical spring on the axis of the second wheel (20) and also insert the second wheel into the hole of the bridge.
With the second wheel slightly raised, install the second idler wheel (19) and locking device.
Install the rear axle and tighten the two nuts.
Place the main wheel assembly on the rear axle. Place the minute wheel on the tube of the front axle, and fix the transfer shaft (14) in the holes of the front and rear axles.
Put the bill wheel on the axle of the front axle, and the hour wheel on the minute wheel hub.
Install the panel (13) on top of the columns, tighten the two nuts.
Place the coil on the base of the stepper motor assembly and secure with screws. Mount the motor rotor on the axle.
Trib rotor enter into engagement with the first intermediate wheel. Mount the stepper motor and secure it with two screws.
Install the electronic unit in the corresponding sockets of the engine and secure it with two screws. Insert two terminals into the grooves of the panel, check the contact. If necessary, the terminal tabs can be bent.
To check the operation of the mechanism, connect it to a power source.
From the book Fraud in Russia author Romanov Sergey AlexandrovichWatches It is known that the orientation of watch collectors is hampered by numerous forgeries masquerading as originals. Since ancient times, the fame of watchmakers and the value of their works have tempted dodgers and swindlers (by the way, also good craftsmen) to falsify. And the reason for
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From the book Security Encyclopedia the author Gromov V I author Nesterova Daria Vladimirovna From the book Great Encyclopedia of Technology author Team of authorsQuartz watch A quartz watch is a precision time measuring device that uses a quartz resonator to keep time. A quartz oscillator is used to excite the oscillations of the resonator. Quartz clocks also contain a frequency divider,
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From the author's bookClock A clock is a measuring device that determines the current time - hours, minutes, seconds. The need to know the time has always been, and this contributed to the creation of devices for its determination. The very first device of this kind appeared as early as 3000 BC. e. -
From the author's bookClock (instrument) Clock - a device for measuring time intervals with a periodic sequence of a given duration, measured in units not exceeding one day, starting from 3/4 s. Clocks are divided by size and portability into tower, pocket,
So, we have completed the first part. Got a few tools. The places where the instrument grows were explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while we were doing all this - we had a good walk in the air and got to know the haunts and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - you had to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything interesting and in our not yet trained eyes - which can be useful to us and unusual. Something like plush. What is the result:
Tool. Which? First screwdrivers, then tweezers. To them - a binocular loupe, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. Got some oil. Yes, even for sewing machines. Well, there is no other. We think we have nothing else. NO. Everything. We manage with this primitive set. But without it, it's not worth starting.
They collected carcasses of hours.
different. Old. Wrist. They simply collected mechanisms - for spare parts.
They took indiscriminately, everything that was cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the state - whole-broken. There are only two criteria. The first - mandatory - not rusty. The second - desirable - to be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of integrity. Trash. Let's sort. What do we have?
Women's wrist.
- Star. Old. Barrel-shaped movement, caliber 18 mm. Allegedly, in prehistoric times, the French brought us and assembled the LIP plant. So it's all French.
- Dawn- Penza watch factory
-Gull- standard small mechanisms, quite old, but tenacious
- Glory- newer gears
Lots of other titles. All Soviet. THE USSR. Looks like the state took care of the working class - it produced watches. To not be late for work. Probably.
Men's wrist watch.
- Victory. Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about hours. About mechanisms.
Basically 2 types of mechanisms.
- "high" mechanism - for example 1MCHZ - "Moscow". Central second hand. Most watches were assembled on its basis - up to the famous "Sport". They stopped when the crown was pulled out. Ersatz stopwatch. An older type of mechanism. We do not name the technical caliber - it makes no sense. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.
- "low" mechanism - more modern. Side second hand.
Both in the first and in the second case, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, rac. Offers. There were also a bunch of types of exterior finishes. Satisfied the demanding consumer.
In addition - a full rainbow of other watch movements:
Slava - 2 types of movements, self-winding and non-self-winding. Somewhere on the Internet it was indicated - the prototype of the LIP-T-15. Again the French.
Complicated watch
With an alarm clock
Chronometer
For the blind
Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect by 50% and then - as they get bored or peacefully thrown into the trash (usually habits - vodka-dances will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work out - beat on the anvil with a hammer. Still others - they will calmly sort it out again, put it off for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - precision mechanics.
Let's start with a simpler direction - men's watches. They are larger than women's. Better to be seen without a microscope. An example is a "low" Victory. It is the simplest for us. "High" is harder for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few fairly simple schemes once. For the first workouts - just sketch what we are analyzing.
Frame:
Back cover.
There are several types of back covers. All the difference is in the manner of closing.
Slamming. A distinctive feature - usually, upon closer examination, you can find a flat into which a knife is driven in order to open it when pressed hard. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar cover is often practiced, but with grooves, as it were, for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don’t know, then at least shoot yourself - you won’t be able to unscrew it.
Flat in the ring of glass. It's not a cover.
A more modern solution is a ledge in the lid.
And this is where the knife comes in.
Screw, with a screw ring or threaded on the cover itself.
Or so - edges are visible along the edge of the lid.
We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are more rigid) or with the turned sponges of the old caliper. At flea markets, keys of this kind can often lie in ruins.
The corporate key (bought in the most common store for modellers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.
A rather rare option in Soviet watches is a bayonet. Turns a small angle and opens.
Bayonet lock on lid
So the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.
A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with rusty watches. There is no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Install new or sharpen new. It's too early for us.
The main parts of the mechanism
I - balance.
II - Wheel system
III - mainspring (maybe two - in Glory)
IV - ratchet - there can also be several types of them.
What we do first of all - while the mechanism is in the case - we lower the mainspring. If the head in the carcass is preserved and it can be turned (it has not been erased to the base), we try to turn it slightly towards the plant and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - with a needle we support it in the allotted state and, without jerks, let the crown turn and dissolve the spring, slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.
Immediately put in front of you at least 2 Petri dishes. Or white plates or dishes with a flat flat bottom. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.
We take out the crown. To do this, press the latch with a needle.
We take out the mechanism from the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case, the opposite is true. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is removed from the side of the dial.
We remove the arrows
Minute, in general, simply - yes, even with a screwdriver
Hours and seconds are already a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece was torn out of the relay (there was some kind of electric relay - there the material on the contact groups is exactly what we need - hard and thin. Bent - and there is the tool we need)
Turning the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.
The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be raised? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can stick a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.
This is how we balance.
Everything is gradually laid out on Petri dishes.
Unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, then it is with a left-hand thread.
Under the dial - the node of the wheels of the arrows (I) and the node of the winding and transfer of the head from the position of the winding to the position of the transfer of the arrows (II) (scientifically called remontoire). We disassemble.
We remove the minute trib. This is the only node in the watch where force is required. We pull hard enough. If we jumped off - we will repeat. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.
When disassembling the switch transfer unit (remontoir), pay special attention to the spring.
She has a nasty property - to click and fly away in an indefinite direction. Against this, a simple trick is to cover (press) all of it lightly with just a finger and carefully “click out” with a needle from under the finger
Put everything in a Petri dish
Now the longest and most accurate. Washing.
We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And mine. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. No dirt left.
For small mechanisms - squirrel brush. Harder. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.
Dry: first put after gasoline on a paper napkin. I usually take a heavy piece of cardboard and put a piece of paper towel on it. To not jump and jump. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the fewer villi - the better.
Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber pear (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so consistently all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an impromptu "dryer". Node by node. This is what is meant: if the platinum is unscrewed and with it - 3 screws - we put them together. We consider - "this is our node." In order not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better in a clean cup. Old - then wash and wipe. This is if we do not intend to collect quickly. Or we collect "from a sheet" - from a napkin. But this is with a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While there is no great experience, we do not understand. So we shove the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath with gasoline and simply rinse it in gasoline for a long time. It is clear that this is wrong. It is necessary to disassemble everything, etc. - WE HAVE NO EXPERIENCE YET. Gutted for 5-10 hours, and then we will look at the balance. How he understands. Read books. And do according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).
Some note about the mainspring. We do nothing. Just wipe the outside with a paper towel. We clean the teeth with a brush. For now, we don't do anything. With disassembly, lubrication, assembly and replacement of the spring, we will have fun next time. No experience yet. It's difficult.
And now more intellectual work - to collect the resulting puzzle
Everything is done in the following order:
mainspring
Wheel system. Let's have some fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with platinum, and then we need to move the upper platinum with tweezers in all directions until the upper axles of the gears do not hit the stones. A little tedious, but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to move the gears that you can get to. The main rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort whatsoever. Everything by itself “snaps” into place over time and the platinum noticeably “falls” down. The clock mechanism is a rather thin thing, the efforts are very small, the loss of efforts during operation is also very small, respectively - it cannot be assembled on tight landings - THEY CANNOT BE BY DEFINITION. If the upper platinum does not sit in place, the pinion has not sat in the stones. Or while we were moving it all - jumped out of the lower stone. We repeat once again - THERE CANNOT BE EFFORT! The criterion for the correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the mainspring drum. SLIGHTLY ONLY - all gears should start turning. It's all - almost almost effortlessly on the clockwork barrel.
Putting the anchor in place
We put the balance in place.
Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. To do this, we use a homemade oil dosage.
We turn the mechanism over, lubricate all the stones from the side of the dial. We collect the mechanism of the crown.
Spring. Another adventure. We press it all with a wide screwdriver. We put the needle in place. Springs are probably the most foul thing in all this work. They jump. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect carcasses of watches from which we will drag spare parts without a twinge of conscience.
They put it in place. We don't breathe. And suddenly it pops up.
Assemble arrow wheels. We put the minute tribe strongly on the gear axis. How? Yes, whatever comes to hand is approximately suitable. How we filmed and set. We rest. You will have to press the pins hard until it clicks.
Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All moving parts are lubricated. Plates must be dry. That's why it is a recess in the stones - so that the oil does not spread beyond its limits. We do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's early yet. A microscope is needed.
We put the dial.
We put the mechanism in the case.
Press the lock on the crown to put it in place. We start. Enjoy. MADE!!! YOURSELF!!!
Bogdan Yasinetsky
That's what doesn't bother anyone in the house because it's a clock, and all because it's on the wall. And there is always a benefit from them, serviceable ones show the time, faulty ones give comfort to the interior. They hang and hang. Until then, until the owners decide to change their place of residence. And then those of them who have the habit of sometimes stopping are thrown away. They give new ones for housewarming, but their quality is the same as that of the old ones. That's why I decided not to throw mine away.
This is a gift from the last housewarming party, they are 30 years old. They show the time exactly, but they have one fad - they work only with a fresh battery (you need to change it every four to five months, with two, even used ones, connected in parallel, it takes much more than a year.
The assembly is of high quality, for example, the motor rotor (drive gear) has an individual mount on the board
I disassemble, clean everything, wipe it with alcohol, solder the contacts and even solder the screws to the board that fasten the installation components on the other side. All in the hope that they will work with one, moreover, not the strongest battery.
Collected, tried - a miracle did not happen. Put two - go. Leave it as it is, I couldn't improve it.
And this is the mechanism of modern watches. China. They go on the condition that every few hours they need to be shaken.
I disassemble, I clean, mine. But this is not enough here. It is necessary to understand the reason for the unstable operation of the mechanism. Soon the fairy tale takes its toll, and in real time for several days I stared at the device of this mechanics and rummaged through the Internet.
In the virtual space, I found a clue to the cause of the malfunction, but a solution was proposed there that was almost delusional. I had to come up with my own. And so in the photo, the metal scriber indicates a recess in the plastic, into which the upper axis of the engine rotor (drive gear) should be inserted. It is made a little deeper than necessary and, accordingly, the rotor dangles there, which leads at a certain moment to stop the clock.
I definitely decided on the diameter of this recess, picked up the necessary drill (maybe even a slightly smaller diameter) and drilled through it. Then he took a piece of fishing line of a slightly larger diameter and, with the help of a fine skin, grinded off the diameter of the line just enough so that it entered the hole with some effort.
From the inside, I inserted a segment into the hole so that there was a very small recess for installing the rotor axis. Assembled the watch mechanism, installed the battery. The clock did not run, as the fishing line rested against the axis of the rotor. Then, with small pliers, turning this impromptu stopper (line) from side to side, pulled it out. Exactly enough so that the rotor axis is released and the clock starts running. The tip of the stopper was shortened with wire cutters almost flush
MK - How to install a quartz movement - watch assembly
I make watches, they are often bought from me. Usually I give the watch personally to the buyer, or send it by mail. And in this case, one problem always arises - how to pack the watch so that the clock hands do not bend or break. They are quite fragile, they can easily bend if you press them a little harder, and you yourself know very well how they throw parcels at the post office. As a result, the package turns out to be of a huge format, and all due to the fact that I try to pack the arrows in all sorts of tricky ways, fix them so that they do not hang out and are protected (styrofoam, pimply cellophane, etc.).
I propose to send the watch without hands - ie. remove them and put them separately in a bag. Then the parcel will turn out to be smaller in size and the probability of breakage of the arrows is generally reduced to zero. But, as it turned out, almost 90% have a fear: “Oh, don’t take it off, otherwise I won’t put them back together - it’s difficult there, I don’t know how and I’m afraid to break it!”. Here, approximately, everyone has words similar to these ... To be honest, when I assembled the clockwork for the first time, I also fiddled with it for half an hour until I took apart the other clock and looked at how everything was assembled there) . It's funny when you know how and know, and when you don't, the torment begins.
As a result, I decided to take a small PHOTO of MK and tell in it, or rather, show how to assemble the clockwork, and what are some tricks. Now I will send a watch without hands, and send the buyer to this article))), and he will be able to assemble everything himself. Why didn't this thought come to my mind before...
Let's get to work:
1. You have a clock - this is a wooden (or any other) disk, and there is a kit for assembling a quartz clockwork.
You can see this set in the photo. Usually arrows are not included in such a set, but are sold separately. Let's assume that we have everything completely and consider the complete set.
The set includes:
- a clockwork (a black square box in the photo) with a stem and a thread on it,
- metal bracket-loop - for hanging on the wall (the loop is sometimes immediately installed on the body),
- rubber washer,
- golden puck
- golden nut
- 3 hands - hour, minute, second.
2. There is a square base small ledge, I show it with an arrow.
3. We put a metal loop on the stem so that she stands exactly in this ledge. The loop (hole) itself should, at the same time, be at the bottom, as in the photo, do not mix it up, otherwise you will not be able to hang the clock on the wall.
4. Now we take a rubber washer - a gasket.
5. Putting on a rubber washer on the stem - either side.
6. Now we string the clock disk on this assembled structure. The stem must pass through the hole in the disc and come out along with carving! This is an important point, keep it in mind when you buy a clockwork. Its stem and thread must be of such a size that they (namely the thread) protrude at least 5-6 mm. or even more when installing the mechanism on the disk, otherwise you will not be able to screw the locking nut onto the thread.
Here's my specific example:
I use plywood for the disc thickness 8 mm. and 10 mm., clockwork I buy with stock 22 mm.(thread he - 18 mm.). Movement with 18 mm stem. (12mm thread) not suitable for 8mm plywood thickness. (for 10 mm, even more so), despite the fact that the instructions say that it should fit (for some reason they do not take into account the thickness of the rubber washer and the thickness of the golden washer, and both of them give a few more mm to the thickness of the disk itself.). The thread protrudes slightly above the surface, but there is no way to screw a nut onto it at all.
Remember:
Stock 22 (18)
8-10 mm.
Stock 18 (12)
suitable for plywood thickness 6 mm. or less.
7. Behind everything looks like this.
8. Prepare a golden washer and nut.
9. First, take the puck.
10. And stringing the puck on the stock.
11. Then we take nut and screw it onto the thread stock. It is necessary to tightly fix the entire structure with a nut. Do everything with your hands, no need to resort to the help of pliers!
12. In this photo (made larger) it is clearly visible that the thread protrudes slightly above the nut. This is fine. Now, if it were not visible at all, then the nut would simply not be able to screw on it and the whole structure would fall apart.
13. Now you can put on arrows.
14. First puts on the hour hand.
Attention! She puts on TIGHT! Keep this in mind. It is necessary to hold it with two fingers and press them on both sides of the base of the arrow at the same time, otherwise it will not fit - it has its own place on the stem, its own diameter, it will fit exactly on it all the way.
If suddenly the arrow does not want to fit in any way (this often happens, and this is what scares everyone - they think that they are doing something wrong), do this - flip it upside down and string it on the rod in that position. That's exactly how she fits in. The hole drilled in the arrow has a "skirt" and it will stretch a little if you put on the arrow inside out. Then take it off and put it on properly.
15. Then puts on minute hand. With her - the same story, she also puts on quite tight. We act by analogy with the first arrow. And don't bend the sides at the base of the frog when you press it!
16. It remains to put on only second hand. It is not strung on the stem, but simply inserted from above into the hole of the stem - put it there and press on top with your thumb.
17. That's all. The mechanism is installed.
18. Now we need to check Are all three arrows parallel? relative to each other - otherwise, during rotation, they will engage with each other and ... there will be no rotation. Arrows just get stuck.
19. Watching this having collected all three arrows in one place, and turning the clock on its side. If they touch each other, we bend them with our fingers at the base to the desired position.
20. We insert the battery, keeping an eye on + and -. It's written on the machine.
21. And... clock is ready! The arrows began to move - the time has come!
That's the whole secret of assembling a quartz watch movement. And, as you can see, there are still some nuances, and you need to know them so that everything turns out easily and simply. I hope my photos and explanations will help you if you ever make a watch or decide to replace the clock mechanism in an old watch with a new one.
