Do-it-yourself master chest from the box. Do-it-yourself chest made of wood

There are a lot of master classes on creating cardboard chests on the Internet. But I always had questions: what kind of glue is better to glue the cardboard so that it does not lead, how and how to strengthen the walls, the bottom of the chest, etc. And when I had the opportunity and the opportunity to make the chest, I decided to photograph all my actions, the stages of creation and leave , as a cheat sheet, so that next time it will be easier and faster to do it.

To make the chest I used:

a ready-made corrugated cardboard box and additional sheets of corrugated cardboard, napkin flagella, vinyl wallpaper;
PVA glue carpenter, PVA building glue, PVA glue contact, Moment Crystal glue;
pencil, ruler, carbon paper;
scissors, stationery knife, stationery scalpel;
alkyd and acrylic paints;
yacht varnish;
metal fittings (lock, canopies), bolts, nuts.

In those places where I planned to screw the handles, locks and hinges, they glued pieces of plastic cut from a plastic bottle.

I glued the joints of the bottom with the walls with a dense cloth (I was afraid that without this the bottom would fall off the walls if something heavy was put in the chest).

Then, on the inside of the box, I glued additional cardboard walls. In the photo there are 3 types of glue, which (for the purposes of the experiment) glued. All three did an excellent job of sticking together firmly and preventing the cardboard from changing its shape.

Now the lid. Cardboard for the lid (2 pieces, i.e. 2 sheets). To begin with, each of them was pressed along the grooves of the corrugated cardboard (to make it easier to bend it later and give the lid the necessary shape without creases on the outside), then glued them together. I pasted wallpaper with protruding teeth on the sides of the lid for further connection with their help to the base of the lid.

The base of the chest is ready.

Since the chest is large (height - 42 cm, length - 54 cm, width - 32 cm), I was haunted by the question of its density and reliability, and therefore I glued another layer of cardboard and additional pieces of plastic for attaching metal fittings.

I glued the finished lid, consisting of two layers of cardboard, with a third layer, but not all, but in three places (the middle of the lid and its edges - along the length of the lid).

"Press" from improvised means.

She began to peck at the chest from the outside with thick wallpaper. I decided to use construction PVA glue. I smeared sheets of wallpaper with glue, waited a bit and pasted them on the chest. It didn't fit well, not securely.

Then she did it differently: she smeared the wallpaper with glue, folded it in half and left it for a few minutes. After that, the wallpaper adhered much better to the walls of the chest. The cardboard is not soaked, not warped.

View from the outside, after wallpapering.

Inside view. For each wall of the chest, I cut off separate pieces of wallpaper, taking into account that each of the 4 strips of wallpaper pasted over the outside of the chest and the inside. The bottom has not yet been covered with wallpaper.

I start decorating the chest on the outside. For a "forged" finish, I cut out narrow strips from corrugated cardboard and pasted them over with crumpled paper. To make them stick more securely, I pinned them with pins.

I did the same with the lid.

I first drew decorative elements on paper, then transferred them to corrugated cardboard through carbon paper and cut them out with a stationery scalpel. And also pasted over with crumpled paper, turning the paper from the front side of the decorative element to the inside (wrong side), thereby covering the "leaky" - corrugated sides (cuts).

I glued the inside of the lid with crumpled sheets of paper.

For the bottom from the inside, I cut out the cardboard of the right size, pasted over it with crumpled paper and glued the bottom.

And outside, I pasted wallpaper on the bottom.

To give a little volume to the decor, I pasted flagella from napkins (I think you can’t call it paper art). Pea rivets were glued to PVA glue by a carpenter, quickly and reliably.

After painting, the inside looks like this. I almost forgot, for such a large chest I bought black alkyd paint (acrylic art would need a lot and expensive), it can be seen in the upper left corner of the photo. Of course, do not compare it with acrylic - and the smell is sharp, and it dries for a long time - 24 hours.

In addition to the silver color, there are many highlights that look like paint, because the chest has already been opened with yacht varnish.

And now just a photo of what happened.

Chest in action.

Chest out of the box - an original idea for handmade, simple to implement and has practical applications. This is not an unnecessary "dust collector", and with due diligence, a very nice little thing can come out, which is not a shame to present as a gift.

What can be stored in a chest out of the box

A chest made from a cardboard box is, in fact, the original version of the box - that is, it is ideal for storing small items. And what? Traditionally in caskets are stored:

You can store small items related to a hobby in a chest - yours or the one to whom it is intended as a gift.

Benefits of a chest out of the box

The chest out of the box has a number of advantages:

it is not only beautiful, but also a useful thing;
perfectly play the role of an original gift (including a thematic one, it can be a wedding gift, created for a specific date or event, correspond to the hobbies of the gift recipient);
a wonderful craft for making with children (today it is no longer an ordinary household item, but a historical or fairy-tale item, the idea of creating it is great for developing children's imagination, joint creativity in a playful way and at the same time for developing fine motor skills);
it is easy to do it yourself;
materials for manufacturing are quite budgetary - to create the simplest chest out of the box, you can find everything you need at home;
it is done for a relatively short time (compared to other handmade).

Have you decided to make your first chest? Go ahead, start by looking for materials and tools to work with.

What will be required

What is needed to create a chest from a box? Literally anything can be needed depending on the creative idea! But the basic list of materials is as follows:

cardboard for the base;
paper - color and white (for office);
scissors;
stationery cutter;
a set of paints (preferably acrylic or gouache);
brushes of different thickness;
a simple pencil for marking;
glue (stronger - PVA, Moment);
ruler (preferably metal, plastic ones easily “mow”);
double-sided tape;
knitting needle, blunt pencil or ended pen;
brads in the form of carnations;
fabric (what kind and whether you need it - depends on your idea);
small decorative elements (also selected according to the plan).

IMPORTANT. The best solution is to use beer cardboard for the base. Ordinary corrugated cardboard is easily deformed, forming ugly kinks, and it has unaesthetic ends. Binding "oak", bends too tightly - not without reason they make covers of large albums from it. Cardstock (designer cardboard) is thin for the base, but a silver cardstock sheet is very useful for decorating.

Please note: beer cardboard is much easier to cut with a clerical cutter than with scissors!

Step by step description of the process

Consider two options for a cardboard chest: a simple one and a more complex pirate one.

Option 1, base assembly:

We create a “pattern” - first we cut out a strip of 90 * 30 cm from cardboard. We make markings on it: cover (30 cm), back side (20), bottom (20), front side (also 20).
Cut out the sides (20*20).
We cut out the sides of the lid: they will be semicircular - we bend a strip of cardboard (40 * 9) exactly in half and make the upper part semicircular with scissors, cut it at the bottom - and the sides are ready.
We bend the first blank as the diagram is drawn and glue the sidewalls. We glue them with paper ribbons bent in half in length (they need to be cut 2-3 cm wide).
We subject the lid to the scoring process - this means that we press parallel lines on it at regular intervals with a blunt pencil, knitting needle or non-writing pen - it is better to draw them in advance along the ruler. We bend the lid in an arcuate manner and glue the sidewalls with the help of paper tapes bent along and notched with teeth on one side (an incision is needed so that they do not wrinkle).
Glue the cover.

The basis of the simplest chest is ready.

IMPORTANT. There is an even simpler option - take a ready-made cardboard box and separately make a chest lid for it in the manner described above.

Option 2, the basis for a pirate chest:

We create blanks - we need two front walls (18 * 8 cm), two side walls (11.7 * 8), two bottoms (18 * 12), a lid (18 * 19.5 cm), sidewalls - we make them in the same way , which is in the first version, but their lower, straight side is supposed to be 11.7 cm - you need to draw a circle with this diameter and cut it in half. Be sure to estimate - the corners of the sidewalls-semicircles should coincide with the corners of the lid, it's easier to fix everything in advance, then it will be too late.
We subject the blank for the lid to scoring with a metal ruler - draw lines at 2 cm intervals (the extreme fragment will turn out to be wider, almost 3 cm), fold it in a semicircle so that it bends and “gets used” to keep its shape.
From office paper we cut 2 strips 4 cm wide, they need to be bent along and one half of both is cut in the form of cloves. Using these strips, we glue the lid and its side parts.
We connect the parts of the base with paper strips 3 cm wide, also bent in half.

We got the frame of a pirate chest. How to make it pirated?

IMPORTANT. As in the first case, for this option, you can use a ready-made box, and make the lid yourself. You can not put it on glue, but come up with wire or leather loops for it - this way it will be easier to open and stay in place longer.

Decor: what can be pasted over

The first chest can be pasted over if desired:

colored paper;
fabric;
wallpaper that imitates the texture of wood;
shabby leatherette or old leather;
fragments of a wooden napkin.

When choosing a material for gluing, consider the intended purpose of the product: the design must correspond to it. Use your boundless imagination!

For example, even a wedding chest for collecting money can be designed in completely different ways, depending on the purpose of the collection:

just cash gifts for the newlyweds - a chest out of the box is decorated in the traditional "wedding" style or in the style of a wedding (themed ones are now popular - in a single color scheme, in a certain entourage);

collection for a honeymoon trip - the chest should be bright, festive. If you already know where the newlyweds will go, you can use something from the style of the country chosen for the trip.

If the product was created together with the child, let him figure out how he wants to see it, and try to paste it over with whatever he wants.

IMPORTANT. When cutting out parts for gluing, do not forget to leave allowances for bends.

The second option is declared pirated - therefore it will be from "rotten boards". How to achieve such an effect?

We cut strips of cardboard 2-3 cm wide (you can intentionally make them unequal for greater naturalness). The “sheathing” for the bottom and sides is the same size in length, for the lid, front and back walls it is 1 cm longer, this spare centimeter is necessary for the bevel. Now, on the front side, with a clerical knife, we “cut off” the strips from the edges a little, so that the “boards” seem unevenly planed and rotten.
We make “boards” for the lid strictly 2 cm wide - just like the creasing lines, otherwise they will give the finished lid an ugly bend. The last strip (there is more than 2 cm, remember?) needs to be carefully adjusted in size.
We glue the "skin" on the body and cover.
We glue the second blank for the bottom to hide the strips of paper connecting the bottom to the side walls.
We paint the workpiece with brown paint, trying to create the tone of the tree, we are waiting for drying.
With a thin brush, we apply black paint to the edges and cuts of the “boards”: this is how they become “old and rotten”.

We got a well-deserved sea chest, perhaps even lying on the bottom of the sea.

How to decorate

The decor for the first version of the chest out of the box is selected according to its main color and style. It can be:

multi-colored ribbons;
braid;
lace;
beads;
applications from fabric and paper;
fragments of photographs (photos of the newlyweds are suitable for a wedding);
natural materials (as if “adhered” dry flowers, very small pebbles and shells),
thematic collages from various clippings;
elements of the same styles as used in scrapbooking (shabby, vintage, provence, steampunk, journaling, etc.).

For the second, marine, version, we need a "shackle" - a sheet of silver cardstock is suitable for this. We cut out two strips for the lid (19.5 * 2 cm) and two for the base of the base (we adjust these so that it is enough for three sides - the front wall, bottom, back). With brown and black (you can mix it for more naturalness) paints “smear” with a brush along the stripes, imitating the effect of rust.

At equal intervals, we insert brads into the “forged” strips - an imitation of nails. Then we glue the strips on both sides over the lid, and the lid to the box. We glue the strips for the body so that their edges coincide with the stripes on the lid.

Something is clearly missing in both chests, right? Of course, the castle!

The easiest way is to buy a decorative lock for scrapbooking - their cost is cheap. For the first version, the castle can be made of cardboard or anything - and not necessarily in the form of a castle, it depends on the style.

For a pirate, a decorative handle for furniture with a ring of the appropriate color is suitable - black, steel, bronze or brass, you can use a curly or in the form of a lion's head. A pair of the same handles can be glued on the sides - supposedly "for carrying" a heavy treasure box.

How to decorate a chest from the inside

Depending on the general style, it can be pasted over with paper, leather, any suitable fabric (plain, colored, emphatically luxurious - for example, velvet), or even faux fur. Collages from photos look original inside such chests.

For our pirate chest, matting, burlap, worn leather, canvas, brown or black leatherette are organically suitable. You can simply paint the inside with a deaf black color, but everything that is stored in it will look bright and impressive against such a background.

Real solid chests made of solid wood have lost their relevance. Although relatively recently they were still used to store things, valuable items and jewelry.

Today, the chest is more often used as an element of decor, an attribute for themed events, and simply as original boxes for storing jewelry and jewelry. In the article, we will look at several interesting master classes in which we will learn how to make an original cardboard chest in just an hour and a half.

What is the chest for?

How to make a beautiful chest of thick cardboard with your own hands and what can it be useful for?

In addition, he will become simply
an indispensable attribute when creating a children's pirate party or wedding. A home-made item can be used as gifts or a ransom for the bride, where guests will put their envelopes with cash gifts.

If desired, the product can be decorated in a folk or New Year's style, and using special paints, you can "age" by giving it the look of an old and shabby treasure chest.

Of course, the finish will largely depend on the individual preferences of each. In the master classes, we will get acquainted with the very principle of assembling a decorative chest.

Master Class. simple chest

If you have always been far from hand-made, but decided to join this difficult but entertaining business, you should start with the simplest version of the chest.

To assemble an original chest from ordinary cardboard with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

cardboard box;
stationery knife;
plastic screws and nuts;
stationery loops;
PVA glue;
cardboard strips.

Manufacturing process:

To begin with, you need to make an appropriate markup on the box: on the end parts of the workpiece, draw semicircles and lines that will encircle the chest;
According to the marks, cut off the excess parts of the box, as shown in the diagram;
Next, you need to make a cover out of cardboard, which can be attached to the formed semicircles either with adhesive tape on the inside, or with clerical loops;
In proportion to the size of the lid, make strips of cardboard;
Frame the chest on both sides with a cardboard strip, fixing them with plastic nuts;
If desired, a lock and handles made of thick paper can be attached to the finished product.

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a chest yourself. If desired, it can be filled with coins and decorative stones, then you will definitely get a nice pirate treasure chest.

Master Class. Chest box

How to make a chest box?

To make a convenient box for storing valuables or jewelry, you need to take the following materials:

Manufacturing process:

Take a small cardboard box and putty it on the outside;
Cut out three semicircles from cardboard, on which a cover cut out of thick paper or cardboard will be attached;
Be sure to apply a large amount of polymer glue to the front of the cover. Then it will fit snugly to the chest;
Using ordinary glue, attach a semicircular cover to the workpiece;
When you putty all the bumps on the box, glue the tulle to it, and cut off the excess parts;
Using yarn or thick threads, lay out patterns in the form of flowers or abstraction on the lid and end parts of the workpiece;
Then once again coat the entire workpiece with glue so that neither the tulle nor the patterns come off during the use of the box;
After that, the chest can be painted with black acrylic paint;
Using a sponge, apply gold acrylic paint to the patterns;
Glue a piece of leatherette of the appropriate size to the inside of the lid;
Glue the bottom and the inside of the box with fabric or textured paper.

This master class will require perseverance and attentiveness from the needlewoman, since this scheme for creating a cardboard chest is not simple. However, the resulting product will please your eye for a long time.

Master Class. pirate chest

To make a do-it-yourself pirate small cardboard chest, you will need the following materials:

Corrugated cardboard box;
Acrylic paints (brown, golden, silver);
Brushes and sponge;
Scissors and pencil;
Glue gun.

Manufacturing process:

How to make a cardboard chest cover?

How to make a wooden chest with your own hands

This wooden chest has a dual purpose: firstly (the most obvious) is a wooden container designed to store household items and secondly, it can, if necessary, be used as a coffee table in a small living room. The shape is very simple and traditional, and also the most functional for storing various things, such as toys, books, games, etc. To improve the appearance and impression of the chest, all its parts are joined together on spikes. If necessary, further improve the appearance of the chest - you can experiment with coloring, drapery or overhead parts, such as metal. There is a lot of room for imagination here.

Assembly: chest base

The main part of the chest is a rectangular wooden box with dimensions of 76x41x23 cm. The actual dimensions can be arbitrary, it all depends on your goals, capabilities and purpose. The choice of material also depends on the possibilities and need. Such a material for assembling a chest can be, for example, multilayer plywood 20 mm thick.

In accordance with the chosen dimensions, it is necessary to make the main parts of the chest - the front and back walls (we have dimensions 76x23 cm), two side walls (size 41x23 cm) and the bottom (76x41) cm.

These details are marked on a sheet of plywood and cut out. When marking, care must be taken to the details of the chest were strictly rectangular in shape. Therefore, we use a square for marking and carefully measure the diagonals of the parts for their same size. You can cut using any tool available: electric jigsaw, hacksaw. We clean the ends of the cut parts with sandpaper to remove all kinds of burrs in order to ennoble the appearance. To make the chest beautiful and durable, we connect the side parts with a box connection - into a straight open spike. Before proceeding with the selection of lugs, sockets and spikes, it is necessary to carefully and carefully mark out the details. Inaccuracy can still be made when sawing blanks, since then errors can be corrected. However, when marking wood for spikes and eyes, this is unacceptable. This is necessary because the execution of spiked joints requires great precision. The mating planes, edges and ends must evenly, tightly and with the entire surface adjoin each other. The spike should be of such a size that it is difficult to insert it into the socket or eyelet. A tenon that is too thick can break the part, and one that is too thin will not hold in the hole. This should be avoided if possible, as it can take a very long time to fix the part.
It is best to use a sharpened pencil when marking, as this guarantees the accuracy of the line. Never draw lines by hand, it is better to use a ruler. If you need to mark the blanks for several identical parts, do it right away by laying them in a row and securing them with clamps. It is advisable to use gaskets in this case so that the parts do not wrinkle.
When marking wood, you need to try to choose the most optimal size, the golden mean. Too thick a spike requires a large eye, and the walls of such an eye will be fragile. Too small a spike, on the contrary, will be fragile itself. The dimensions indicated on the drawing cannot be absolutely exact. Often this turns out to be too complicated a matter, requiring a lot of effort, which is far from always justified. Therefore, when performing a large number of works, some inaccuracies are allowed. The boundaries of the spikes are marked on both sides of the board and at the end. This ensures that the work will be done with sufficient accuracy.
When the markup is over, you can begin work.
When starting to cut the spikes, secure the workpiece with the end up and the front towards you. When making a connection on a solid spike, it is first better to make the spike itself, and then outline the end of the spike on another part with a pencil. This sequence of work allows you to avoid too large errors, which can be even greater when making a spike and eyelet or socket blindly. Only after that you can start sawing the eyelet or nest.

The parts prepared in this way are connected using any joinery or other glue designed for gluing wood and forming a strong connection. When connecting the workpieces, check that all corners are right, this can be done using a square. Fasten the parts connected and smeared with glue with clamps with gaskets to ensure immobility while the glue dries. After the side walls were assembled in the described manner - we attach the bottom to them (76x41 cm in size) - you can also use glue, or glue and self-tapping screws. All the base of our chest is assembled.

chest lid

The lid is assembled using a technology similar to the base. The only exception will be the height of the lid - we have 12 cm, you have it according to your desire. We cut out the side parts in 2 pieces: the front and rear walls are 76x12 cm in size and the side walls are 41x12 cm each. Using the technology described for the base of the chest, we assemble the box and glue the upper plane to it, similar in size to the bottom: 76x41 cm. If desired, the upper plane of the lid (or the entire lid) can be made not from plywood, but from solid wood, choosing the appropriate material. We also carefully monitor that all the angles formed by the parts are straight - we check with a square.

The final stages of making a chest

Thoroughly sand the entire surface, removing all defects and adhesive residue. We pay special attention to all corners. We sand the corners especially carefully, giving them a slightly rounded shape. You can treat the surface from the inside and outside in a variety of ways, you can simply impregnate with drying oil and varnish - the most traditional solution, get a wooden chest with a natural wooden texture, the rest depends only on your imagination.

We buy decorative hinges of suitable sizes and the shape and color you like and fasten them with decorative self-tapping screws to the lid and base. Loops are best placed on the outside, not inside, they will add color to your chest. In front we install a decorative lock, latch or deadbolt, suitable in size. In addition to the lid and the base, we attach a piece of strong braid to prevent the lid from tipping over when opened, as shown in the figure. The tape will hold the lid open, preventing it from opening fully and damaging the hinges. Everything. You have made a wooden chest with your own hands.

To make the chest I used:

a ready-made corrugated cardboard box and additional sheets of corrugated cardboard, napkin flagella, vinyl wallpaper;
PVA glue carpenter, PVA building glue, PVA glue contact, Moment Crystal glue;
pencil, ruler, carbon paper;
scissors, stationery knife, stationery scalpel;
alkyd and acrylic paints;
yacht varnish;
metal fittings (lock, canopies), bolts, nuts.

In those places where I planned to screw the handles, locks and hinges, they glued pieces of plastic cut from a plastic bottle.

I glued the joints of the bottom with the walls with a dense cloth (I was afraid that without this the bottom would fall off the walls if something heavy was put in the chest).

The base of the chest is ready.

I glued the finished lid, consisting of two layers of cardboard, with a third layer, but not all, but in three places (the middle of the lid and its edges - along the length of the lid).

"Press" from improvised means.

View from the outside, after wallpapering.

I did the same with the lid.

I glued the inside of the lid with crumpled sheets of paper.

For the bottom from the inside, I cut out the cardboard of the right size, pasted over it with crumpled paper and glued the bottom.

And outside, I pasted wallpaper on the bottom.

To give a little volume to the decor, I pasted flagella from napkins (I think you can’t call it paper art). Pea rivets were glued to PVA glue by a carpenter, quickly and reliably.

In addition to the silver color, there are many highlights that look like paint, because the chest has already been opened with yacht varnish.

And now just a photo of what happened.

Chest in action.