The craft brothers built a jet ski out of plywood. Motorcycle of water spaces Do-it-yourself foam jet ski drawings

Alexander and Ivan Lipatnikovs from the Vishkil village of the Kotelnichsky region worked on the apparatus called LANI for about a month. The other day on the Vyatka River, a jet ski was tested.

The name "LANI" is an abbreviation made up of the names of brothers and father: Lipatnikovs Alexander, Nikolay, Ivan

Everything is fine. It runs quickly, - 25-year-old Ivan noted, smiling, right after the break-in. - True, a lot depends on which engine costs. We put it on 9.8 horsepower, pulls well. We think to try at 30.

According to the brothers, they dreamed of their own jet ski for a long time, but could not afford it. No joke, in a store such a unit costs from two hundred thousand and more. In a word, they took it and assembled it themselves.

A homemade jet ski was made almost entirely of plywood. Plus, fiberglass was used inside and, of course, spare parts that were found in the garage.

I must say that it is not a novelty for brothers to make appliances with their own hands. Often their father helps them in this. The craftsmen have already built seven amphibians (hovercraft) built with their own hands, six of which sail across the vastness of different Russian regions: Arkhangelsk, Vladimir, Krasnoyarsk, Murmansk and other regions.

By the way, according to the elder of the brothers, 33-year-old Alexander, their jet ski is in no way inferior to the factory counterparts, and in some respects it is superior.

There is more adrenaline here, - the interlocutor shared. - An ordinary jet ski has a good speed, you can make sharp turns on it, but it won't be able to stand up with a candle, but ours can easily, as it is more maneuverable.

In addition, the Lipatnikovs said, their apparatus is even lighter: not 200 kilograms, as in the store, but only 60. If others need a trailer, he put this in the trunk of the car and went where needed.

The masters admitted that they have big plans: to build an impressive boat with a cabin for six people, so that you can travel along the river without fear of bad weather.

Attention! The video contains obscene language.

For design and construction homemade jet ski it took several winter and spring months. In the summer, Stanislav hung the Veterok outboard motor (eight horsepower) on the transom board and lowered the Marlin ... into the city pond. With one rider, the jet ski even glided there! But for a trip together the power of the Veterok motor was not enough. Later, another engine was tested - an unusual combination of "Whirlwind" and "Hello".

The fact is that in the club "Rotor", where Stanislav worked, the "leaders" of the boat "Privetov-22" went to the manufacture of deltalet engines. And all the corners in the club were littered with the "bottom" left out of work. In the same corner rested the "Vikhr-ZOE" delta, which had not been attracted to the pilots, with electronic contactless ignition. Without thinking twice, Stanislav made a transition plate from duralumin, deploying the "Whirlwind" on it so that it could both articulate with the "Hello" column and fit under its hood. The very first tests homemade jet ski with a new engine showed: this is what you need! Already at a speed of 50 km / h, the jet ski confidently went to planing, easily towed a water skier.

To transport his apparatus, the designer built a brisk trailer-trolley with rubber-padded cradles. Together - his wife Olga took the bow, and Stanislav took the transom handrails - they lifted the "Marlin" and put it on a trailer. Then they put a boat motor in the trunk of the car and drove from the garage home for the children, so that the whole family could go out of town, to the reservoir. And quite often - to a rather distant one. For example, the Korovins have repeatedly stopped on the banks of the Nugush reservoir, located 80 km from Kumertau.

The Marlin floats very well on the water. It is possible to turn it over only with great effort. Therefore, unlike similar imported devices, you can fish from its deck (fortunately, there is where to put it!) , but even from the side. At the same time, the "Marlin" rolls, but does not tip over. And the management? It is so simple and light that Olga, who had never touched the steering wheel of a car or motorcycle before, mastered it on the first try! In addition, the device is quite cheap to operate, because it is fueled by quite affordable A-76 gasoline, while a foreign jet ski needs an expensive AI-95 and the same expensive imported oil.

BODY CONSTRUCTION Housing jet ski consists of many isolated compartments: bow and stern racks, as well as twelve (six per side) side sealed volumes formed by frames, longitudinal walls, deck and bottom. In addition, the sides add additional buoyancy to the apparatus, since they also represent, albeit small, but sealed cavities. Structural materials from which "Marlin" is made are fiberglass (multilayer composition of fiberglass, mainly T-25 grade, and epoxy binder) and polystyrene (mostly PS-200 grade). Duralumin, stainless steel, plywood, wood and leatherette are used in the manufacture of individual units and parts of the jet ski. The body of the apparatus was made in parts.

Separately, on plywood blockheads, nose luggage fairing, bottom and sides were glued (usually from four layers of fiberglass on epoxy glue). The fairing is reinforced from the inside with three upper stringers and four oblique linings, and the bottom is reinforced with four stringers (from the inside) and two longitudinal steps (outside). All these reinforcements are foam strips of various sections, pasted over with fiberglass tapes. A powerful keel bar is still glued into the bottom - a thick-walled duralumin profile, to the front end of which a heel is bolted - the steering shaft bearing.

After joining the nose cone and the bottom, the line of their connection from the inside was also reinforced with two side stringers - wide strips of foam and the same wide strips of fiberglass on epoxy glue. Outside (in front), the fairing and the bottom are additionally fastened with a bow handrail made of 18x1 mm titanium tube. The first physically real frame No. 6 (frames No. 1-5 are conditional) is entirely cut out of a 20 mm thick foam sheet, pasted over with fiberglass on both sides and inserted into the opening intended for it, where it separates the nose rack from the rest of the body.

The frame is not blind: an inclined hole is drilled in the middle for the exit of the steering shaft, and two luggage hatches with removable covers are cut on the sides. (The latter are equipped with quick-detachable bonnet locks, opened with a screwdriver's tip or even a coin's edge.) Frames 7 and 8 are similar in composition to the sixth: foam plastic and a layer of fiberglass with "epoxy" on the sides. The structure of the hull is complemented by four longitudinal elements made of 20 mm thick foam pasted over on both sides: two bulkheads extending from frame 6 to the transom and hidden under the deck, and two walls protruding above the deck and forming the volume of the aft trunk.

At the back, they are connected by an end wall with a square hole for the passage of the steering rod, and on top of them lies a folding double seat made of foam rubber and leatherette. The seat is pivotally connected with two window hinges to the bracket (an oak bar glued between the walls at frame No. 6) and in the folded-up position is held by a simple fixator made of duralumin parts. The transom is obtained by building up the end part of the bottom from the inside with layers of fiberglass with epoxy resin to a thickness of 5 mm. Further, also from the inside, the transom is reinforced with a layer of foam plastic 5 mm thick (except for the central zone on which the transom board is put on) and, finally, with four more layers of fiberglass.

Outside, the hull is riveted along the contour of the transom with a stainless steel strip protruding from the hull at the bottom by a maximum of 22 mm. Such a protrusion is necessary so that water jets on planing do not stick to the transom and do not create additional bottom flow resistance. Holes are drilled in the transom to drain water seeped into the compartments. The holes are closed with tight plugs. On the central zone of the transom, a transom board is put on with epoxy glue, on which the outboard motor is hung. The board consists of three layers of plywood of various thicknesses.

After installation on the transom, it was glued on both sides with fiberglass (four layers) and reinforced with two duralumin pads for the motor mounting clamps. This entire package is tightened along the lining along the contour with six M5 bolts, and the shelf of the front lining is still attached to the deck with three screws. Since the main force from the engine to the body of the jet ski is transmitted through the transom board and the walls of the aft trunk, the joints of the board and the walls in the depth of the trunk are reinforced with two triangular scarves made of duralumin sheet 3 mm thick.

With a rear flange 20 mm wide, each gusset plate is pulled to the board by four screws on epoxy glue, and by a triangular plane to its wall by four through M5 bolts. Outside, to the transom and the transom board, handrails made of duralumin pipes are attached with M5 bolts, the brackets of which are riveted from sheet titanium. Among other things, handrails are used when towing a water skier. The halyard (nylon cord with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of 30 m) is attached with a carabiner to the outer brackets of the handrails.

The deck of the jet ski is also made of a 20 mm thick foam sheet covered with fiberglass on top. The deck rests on frames No. 7 and 8, longitudinal bulkheads and the ends of the aft trunk walls, and, in addition, on supports made of 20x20 mm foam blocks, attached with epoxy glue to the aft trunk walls. The deck is glued along the contour with frame No. 6, the joint of the bottom and sides, and the transom. And in the lower left corner of the transom board there is a hole for draining the water accumulated in the aft trunk, closed with a tight plug, and in the lower right corner there is a bracket for a remote pressure receiver of the incoming water flow (speed sensor).

The receiver is connected to the speedometer with a thin rubber hose laid along the wall of the aft trunk and brought out into a special hole in the end cap of the trunk at deck level. In the same bundle with this hose, the cables from the battery and the "gas" cable from the carburetor throttle control drive on the steering wheel are also laid. From the same end cap, a fuel hose with a "pear" of the boost pump is brought out (through another hole).

STEERING CONTROL All controls for the watercraft are concentrated on the handlebars located on the nose lid fairing cut. The steering shaft - a steel tube with a diameter of 20 mm - rotates in two bearings: in the seat of the U-shaped heel screwed to the keel bar, and in a polyurethane washer built into the decorative steering wheel cover. Welded to the upper end of the shaft is a rudder bar made of a steel tube with a diameter of 25 mm, on the "horns" of which motorcycle handles are worn (the speedometer and controls are also motorcycle ones). On the steering wheel of the first "Marlin" there was no decorative fiberglass casing. But in the new version it appeared and, I must say, significantly enriched the design of the jet ski. At least now it looks complete.

Approximately in the middle of its length, the steering shaft has a steel bipod, pivotally connected to a rather long duralumin rod. A ball bearing ШS-6 pressed into the end of the bipod, which is colloquially called "fisheye", is used as a hinge. It allows movement in a wide range of angles, which is very important in a jet ski control system, where the control action of the thrust is transmitted to the massive engine, makes it turn and change its position on the transom board. The front end of the tie rod is equipped with a tip for connection with a ball bearing, and the rear end is connected to a rocker arm mounted on the outboard motor. The combination of engines "Whirlwind - Hello" is started by the starter start button.

If the battery fails, the starter cord is used. Everything you need during the trip is on board the Marlin. The onboard equipment is distributed among the luggage racks as follows: a boat fuel tank with a capacity of 20 liters, a tow halyard, fishing tackle and other luggage - in the bow; battery, toolbox, folding oars and personal items are in the stern.

Theoretical drawing of a jet ski (projection "bottom")

Theoretical drawing of a jet ski (projection "hull")

Jet ski "Marlin" (the engine is conventionally not shown): 1,9 - holes for draining water from the body; 2.7 - longitudinal steps; 3.8 - transom handrails; 4 - bracket for an external water pressure receiver (speed sensor); 5 - transom board; 6 - hole for draining water from the stern trunk; 10 - the left hatch of the bow trunk; 11.19 - removable hatch covers; 12 - nose luggage compartment fairing; 13 - double seat; 14-left handlebar; 15 - starter start button and stop switch; 16- speedometer; 17.24 - halves of the steering wheel decorative cover; 18-right rudder handle with carburetor throttle control drive (throttle handle); 20 - thrust for turning the engine; 21 - bow handrail with support; 22 - steering shaft; 23 - steering wheel fairing; 25 - seat in a raised position; 26 - seat hinge hinge; 27 - raised seat retainer; 28 - aft trunk wall; 29 - steering rod; 30 - the bottom of the jet ski

The body of a self-made jet ski: 1 - a locking loop of the left lid of the bow trunk hatch; 2,3 - nose boot hatch covers; 4 - transom (foam); 5 - transom board; 6 - bow handrail with support (titanium, tube 18x1; sheet s3); 7 - nose luggage compartment fairing; 8 - right oblique pads; 9 - side walls of the aft trunk; 10-end wall with a hole for the steering rod; 11.40 - bulwarks (4 layers of fiberglass); 12 - deck (foam); 13- left transom handrail (D16T, pipe 25x2); 14 - frame No. 8; 15 - frame No. 7; 16 - frame No. 6; 17 - bottom stringers; 18 - keel bar (D16T); 19 - keel bar "crust" (2 layers of fiberglass); 20- bottom; 21 - deck covering (2 layers of fiberglass); 22 - transom board core (s5 plywood); 23 - outer layers of the transom board (plywood s 12); 24 - transom plate overlays (D16T, SHEET S 3); 25.27 - gluing the transom board (4 layers of fiberglass); 26 - trapezoid (gluing fiberglass s5); 28 - right kerchief (D16T, sheet s3); 29 - keel part of the bottom (4 layers of fiberglass); 30 - nose boot fairing shell (4 layers of fiberglass); 31 - "crust" of the upper stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 32 - upper stringer (foam); 33 - bottom shell (4 layers of fiberglass); 34 - left side stringer (foam); 35 - "crust" of the side stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 36 - bottom stringer (foam); 37 - "crust" of the bottom stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 38 - seat mounting bracket (oak, bar 65x20); 39- hole for the steering shaft; 41 - left bulkhead (polystyrene); 42 - pasting the bulkhead (one layer of fiberglass each); 43-longitudinal steps (polystyrene); 44- "peel" of redan (2 layers of fiberglass); 45 - left deck support (foam); 46 - pasting the transom (4 layers of fiberglass); 47 - hole for draining water from the body; 48-hood lock; 49 - filler (foam); 50 - sheathing (2 layers of T-10 fiberglass); 51 - rivets with a diameter of 3; 52 - hook (D16T. Profile s l, 8); 53.55 - handrail mounting brackets (titanium, SHEET S3); 54 - rivets (steel, pipe 8x 1)

Steering: 1 - steering shaft (steel, pipe 20x1.5); 2 - steering wheel (steel, pipe 25x2); 3 - steering rod (D16T, pipe 25x2); 4 - engine rotation lever (D16 T, pipe 25x2); 5 - support-bearing (polyurethane); 6 - pad (steel, sheet s2); 7 - decorative casing (fiberglass); 8 - self-tapping screw 3x10 (8 pcs. Along the contour); 9 - ball bearing ШС-6; 10 - tubular rivets (steel, pipe 6x0.5, 3 pcs.); 11,14,17,19 - bolts with self-locking nuts M5; 12 - steering arm (steel, pipe 24x2, sheet s5); 13 - tip (steel); 15 - socket (steel, pipe 26x3); 16 - heel (steel); 18 - keel bar (D16T); 20 - keel (bottom, fiberglass); 21 - bolt with self-locking nut M6; 22 - earring (steel, sheet s2, 2 pcs.)

Raised seat catch: 1 - hinge (D16T, corner 26x26x2); 2- lever (D16T, sheet s4); 3 - stop (D16T, corner 26x20x2); 4 - "rivet with a diameter of 5 (AMts)

DIY boat

A jet ski is a very good summer entertainment, you can rush around the pond, ride girls, have fun on it. Of course, a home-made jet ski is not, it does not have such spaciousness, but, on the other hand, it is more preferable for entertainment on the water surface.

Commercial jet skis have a propeller based on a water cannon to ensure safety. However, the jet has poor performance in terms of fuel consumption, especially at low revs, so it is expensive to use an industrial jet ski for water travel.

Another thing is a homemade jet ski!

Having made a homemade jet ski on it, you can make a wide variety of tours. And what? Quite a summer trip!
When making a jet ski with your own hands, you can use a more economical option and equip a homemade jet ski with an ordinary outboard motor. This approach will allow the use of a jet ski for high-speed trips "with the breeze", water skiers, and for long-distance water travel. It is enough just to change the water propellers by selecting them for the optimal speed of the given operating mode of the outboard motor.

The simplest type of homemade jet ski is to use a dual-float catamaran system. In fact, all you need to do is install the seat, steering wheel, RPM control lever and cable control.

Catamaran floats are made of polystyrene with their subsequent facing with fiberglass on epoxy. 5-6 layers of fabric are placed on the bottom of the floats, 3 layers are enough for the sides. In the places where the catamaran is attached to the seat of a home-made jet ski, additional wooden frames are placed, which distribute the weight of the structure and riders.

Another interesting project of a self-made jet ski is the project of a 3-float do-it-yourself gyroscopic bike.

You can follow the link at the end of the article.

The design of a 3-float jet ski is simple, the floats are also made independently from foam, plywood root ribs and power fastening elements. Conventional cross-country skis are used as cross beams. They are strong enough and absorb the load well. However, if desired, they can be replaced with seamless steel or duralumin pipes.

Another design is more familiar in appearance, this self-made jet ski is assembled on the basis of classical technology: it is a frame-stringer frame, sheathed with plywood 3 mm thick and then glued with fiberglass.

A few words about the control system. It uses a lever-cable type control, the same as that comes with the kit for remote control of the outboard on boats, the only difference in controlling a homemade jet ski is that it uses a motorcycle handlebar, and instead of a throttle lever, a motorcycle rotating handle.

The dimensions and weight of a homemade jet ski allow you to transport it on the roof rack located on the roof of any car. This means that there is no need to purchase an additional trailer for transporting a homemade jet ski from storage to the reservoir.

Download drawings of a homemade jet ski can be found at the bottom of the article.

The third type of homemade jet ski allows you to use it as a small boat for fishing or swimming and for driving around the water area. The wide body of a do-it-yourself watercraft does not allow it to tip over even when an adult climbs onto it from the side. The same excessive stability allows you not to worry about boats and motor boats passing by, diverging from their waves will not be able to overturn your homemade jet ski.

Despite the rather wide body, the built jet ski is very playful, with one person it goes on planing even with an eight horsepower engine! And after the installation of a more powerful Whirlwind, this home-made jet ski easily went to gissing with two passengers and dragged a water skier along with it.

The only drawbacks of this design of a jet ski is that a trailer is needed to tow it. But the loading and unloading of the jet ski can be carried out by only two people.

In general, it is up to you to decide which gyrocycle to build with your own hands. Maybe, based on the ready-made drawings of the gyroscopes, you decide to build a self-designed jet ski and share your information with us.

Download jet skis drawings can

DIY boat

Another thing is a homemade jet ski!

The simplest type of homemade jet ski is to use a dual-float catamaran system. In fact, all you need to do is install the seat, steering wheel, RPM control lever and cable control.

Another interesting project of a self-made jet ski is the project of a 3-float do-it-yourself gyroscopic bike.

You can follow the link at the end of the article.

Download drawings of a homemade jet ski can be found at the bottom of the article.

The only drawbacks of this design of a jet ski is that a trailer is needed to tow it. But the loading and unloading of the jet ski can be carried out by only two people.

Download jet skis drawings can

In the mid-1980s, small, high-speed, exceptionally maneuverable motorized vessels under the general name "water bike": "jetski", "waterboat", "jet ski" were widely advertised on television screens in many countries. They immediately conquered the hearts of water sports fans, displacing windsurfers, water skis and some water sports.

However, it is rather difficult to repeat the design of a jet ski at home due to the high power requirements of the propeller group of vessels (at least 35 - 40 hp) and the complexity of reproducing hydrodynamic surfaces. For those who are fired up by this idea, it is better to turn to simpler designs. For example, to get acquainted with the publication on the watercolor painting in No. 6 of the magazine "Modelist-Constructor" for 1991. If, for a number of reasons, this scheme is not suitable, then you can try to design the machine proposed below. It consists of a frame, two pairs (front and rear) of floats, a windshield, an engine and a steering gear.

Materials required: foam of any brand (better packaging), some plywood, old skis, several steel pipes, any motorcycle or moped engine, epoxy glue (3-4 liters), fiberglass (4-5 m2), tools and ... patience.

On a flat surface (it is possible on the floor), you should depict the structure of the jet ski in two projections (scale 1: 1) and cut the material (pipes and foam) along them.

Floats require special attention during manufacture. They are made from foam bars, plywood root ribs and power fasteners by sequential assembly-gluing. Then, with a hacksaw and emery bars, they are brought to the desired shape, pasted over with thin paper and applied in one or two layers of fiberglass impregnated with epoxy glue (the bottom to the cheekbones - in three or four layers). The floats are attached to the frame using cross beams made from ordinary skis (we used semi-plastic ones) and reinforced with lower duralumin shelves. These beams reduce shock loads while driving. In case of insufficient strength or heavy loading of the vessel, they should be replaced with metal ones.

The frame is welded from seamless steel pipes (Ø 70 mm) under protective gas and reinforced with transverse gussets. In the absence of pipes of the required dimensions, small diameter pipes (30 - 40 mm) can be used, only in this case the structure of the power frame will have to be made spatial, which will somewhat complicate the work.

1 - front float, 2 - frontal fairing, 3 - steering device, 4 - gas tank, 5 - engine, 6 - seat, 7 - frame, 8 - rear floats, 9 - outboard engine installation option, 10 - exhaust pipe, 11 - transmission shaft, 12, 13 - transverse beams. 14 - glass cloth covering, 15 - root rib of the float (plywood, s5 ... 6), 16 - filler (foam bars), 17, 18 - power float fastening elements (plywood. S5 ... 6).

1 - pads (St3, sheet, s3), 2 - support for attaching the front floats (St3, pipe Ø32), 3 - footboard (D16T, sheet, s2.5), 4, 5, 6 - brackets for attaching rear floats (St3, sheet, s3), 7 - frame details (steel 45, pipe Ø 70), 8.11 - gussets (St3, sheet, s3), 9 - M8 bolts (6 pcs.), 10 - rear transverse beam for fastening the floats (shown conditionally) , 12 - pad for fastening the footboard (St3, sheet, s3).

1 - lower beam shelf (D16T, sheet, s2,2), 2 - upper beam shelf (ski), 3 - M4 screw, 4 - pad (D16T, sheet, s2), 5 - bracket (D16T, corner 80x80x2.5 ), 6 - reinforcement of the float (plywood, s5 ... 6).

1 - bolt М5, 2 - fork (D16, pipe Ø32), 3 - rudder blade (D16T, sheet, s2,2).

The steering device can be installed under the stern of the jet ski in the classic version, or, as we did using bicycle parts, directly on the same shaft with the steering column, which is much easier. True, this significantly increases the effort on the steering wheel. The shape of the rudder feather is usually chosen close to a square. However, you can also operate the device with your feet, just like it is done in speedway or road circuit races on motorcycles.

The engine, and it can be almost any (even from the launcher, but with a capacity of no more than 18 hp), is mounted in the lower part of the frame near the driver's feet. The propeller is driven through a shaft connected to the motor by a bevel gear. You can use any other gears, it is only important that the propeller shaft rotates no faster than 3000 rpm. The gas tank and other engine accessories will fit from an old motorcycle or moped. The attachment points to the frame for various engines (for example, PD-8M, Sh-62) are selected locally, but at least at three points. The best solution would be to use an elastic mount through shock absorber blocks with rubber-metal pads.

The exhaust pipe is positioned for convenience and safety, insulated and secured to the frame with yokes. Thermal insulation includes asbestos sheet, three to four layers of fiberglass and a tin casing. But you can do it easier and abandon the exhaust pipe if you arrange the cooling of the exhaust pipe with seawater. In addition, the supply of water under the cooling jacket will significantly reduce the noise level, especially for two-stroke engines.