Making a bed with your own hands is an interesting idea. How to make a bed with your own hands - from the choice of materials to the finished product

In furniture stores, the price for designer models, for those on which the sign "handmade" hangs, significantly exceeds the reasonable and possible mark. Wooden beds look very stylish and modern. The high cost of manufacturing materials makes it less popular. You can significantly save money if you make a bed with your own hands from wood without involving specialists. Self-production will allow you to create a unique model that fits the design of the room in which it will be located.

Before you start making the bed, you need to choose the wood from which the furniture will be made. All breeds are conventionally divided into two groups:

• Soft;
• Solid.

Soft breeds include:

1. Cedar;
2. Pine;
3. Alder;
4. Aspen;
5. Lipu.

Hard rocks include:

1. Birch;
2. Ash;
3. Nut;
4. Maple.

Each group has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Some features have only one specific type of wood. A brief description of popular materials for a do-it-yourself wooden bed is given below in the corresponding table.

№	Name	Breed	Material characteristics, advantages and disadvantages
1	Alder	Soft	It is a popular material due to its low price category. When reaming, alder cracks, therefore, when making furniture from it, it is not recommended to use nails as fasteners. Main advantages: low price, resistance to high humidity (does not absorb water).
2	Pine	Soft	Low price category. Disadvantages: wood is easy to crack, does not withstand heavy loads. Advantages: antiseptic properties, air disinfection, not susceptible to wood pests.
3	Linden	Soft	It lends itself to the negative influence of external factors, it is adversely affected by the sun's rays, high humidity and dry air. Linden is used for the manufacture of internal parts of furniture, as it is resistant to mechanical damage.
4	Oak	Solid	Oak furniture is durable and durable. Easily withstands heavy loads, is resistant to adverse external factors. Furniture from this type of wood is elite. The main disadvantage: the high price category, which makes oak rare and affordable for only a few.
5	Ash	Solid	Ash is fed to mechanical damage, does not bend under the weight of the weight, does not deform over time. It is expensive, but the durability of the material justifies the high price. Requires protection and regular treatment from wood bugs.
6	Birch	Solid	During the fastening of the elements, the material cannot be split. It has high strength, but the average price category, which makes birch popular. The main disadvantage is the need for special treatment against the fungus, which easily infects the array.
7	Beech	Solid	Beech is a dense material. When properly processed, beech furniture lasts a long time. Temperature and humidity drop has a negative effect on wood. The material is capable of deforming under the weight of human weight. Refers to the middle price category.

Hardness of wood

Calculation of the amount of materials

Below is the calculation of the necessary materials for do-it-yourself wooden beds. It is possible to make this bed from solid pine as it is cheap. You can choose more expensive materials. The calculation of the required amount of wood is given in the table below.

Materials

The amount of material is indicated for the manufacture of a bed with a mattress size of 2000 x 1500 mm. This is not a single bed, a bed of this size is suitable for two. If the mattress is of other sizes, you only need to slightly change the length of the boards, but the manufacturing algorithm and the sequence of actions remain unchanged.

In addition to wood, you will also need:

• Self-tapping screws 30 mm;
• Self-tapping screws 60 mm;
• Self-tapping screws 50 mm;
• Acrylic varnish (for decorative finishing);
• Stain;
• Wood putty;
• Solar glue.

The aforementioned wooden elements are based on the production of furniture without a headboard. By adding a carved headboard, you can create an antique bed with your own hands. In this case, the headboard will not act as a headboard, but rather act as a decorative element.

Fasteners

Manufacturing of elements

The sequence of manufacturing elements for the future bed includes cutting materials, grinding them, drilling holes for screwing screws at an angle and fastening furniture elements with wood glue and screws.

Frame

To make the frame, two boards with dimensions of 2.5 × 20 × 205 cm and two boards with dimensions of 2.5 × 20 × 148.5 cm are cut off.How to make the frame yourself:

1. The cut boards are cut at the mark of the required length with a jigsaw;
2. Using a grinder or planer, the wood is sanded;
3. All four boards are placed at 90 degrees to each other. You can check the angle of the connection using a square. For a more reliable fastening, you can use metal corners at 90 degrees;
4. For fastening with screws at an angle, we make special holes, and after connecting the wood with screws, the joints are fixed with carpentry glue.

The corner of each board should be ground and rounded. This will ensure not only safety in operation, but also save the carpenter making the bed from wounds, scratches, splinters and cuts.

Self-tapping screws 30 mm are used for this fastening. Remains of wood glue, while not dry, are removed with a damp cloth. To process the bed frame with your own hands, you can use not only electric, but also hand tools for wood.

We cut boards of the required size

We grind them

We fix the corners

Assembling the frame

Base

After the frame has been processed, you can start making the base for the rack bottom. It is advisable to install the slats themselves after assembling the bed, so that it is more convenient to build the rest of the parts. Step-by-step diagrams of how to make a bed base:

1. For the manufacture of the frame, boards of 50 * 100 * 2400 mm are used;
2. They need to be cut to length so that it is 202 cm;
3. All 3 wooden planks are attached along the base of the bed;
4. They can be attached using self-tapping screws and wood glue;
5. The side boards are fastened with wood glue (for reliable fastening, you can use clamps), and after it dries, it is fastened to the bed frame boards with self-tapping screws every 25 cm. Self-tapping screws are used with a length of 50 mm;
6. Before screwing in the screws, holes must be prepared for them. This simple operation will make the work easier and help avoid cracking the wood;
7. In order for a homemade wooden bed to be securely connected with your own hands, it is worth attaching the elements to the ends of the frame not only with self-tapping screws, but also with glue.

We select lamellas by size

Make sure to indent equally

We fasten them with lamellas

Features of lamella insertion

Headboard

When making a bed from solid wood, the headboard should be used as a decorative element. A headboard is not provided for a wooden bed, as wooden furniture is considered a sign of wealth and luxury. When a carved wood bed is made, the headboard must be selected in accordance with the dimensions of the base of the structure.

So that the wooden bed does not lose its sophistication and luxury, the headboard must be created either with a wood milling machine, or ordered ready-made. If the exterior design is not as important as the functionality of the bed, you can make the bed without a headboard, or attach it later, after purchase. The headboard, assembled from several parts, belittles the beauty and sophistication of expensive handmade wooden furniture.

The headboard should be finished and painted with the same materials used to create the beautiful frame and base. In this case, the bed will be both functional and beautiful.

Cut out the part of the desired size

Making holes

Sticking foam rubber

Upholstered with fabric

Support

The legs will be used as support. We make them from wooden beams. We do it like this:

1. 6 elements 10.5 cm long are cut from a wooden beam 10 * 10 cm (the height of the legs can be changed according to the data of a specific project);
2. Such legs can be made more beautiful if the lower corner of the support is made slightly beveled. This is done at will;
3. After that, each leg lends itself to rounding the ends, and then polished;
4. Under each support, and there are three of them (two side and one central), two legs are placed. If a decision is made to decorate the legs by mowing the support area, it is not recommended to reduce the support area of \u200b\u200bthe central legs;
5. Under the central support, the legs can be attached not along the edges, but closer to the center. Before fastening the parts with self-tapping screws, you need to drill holes for them.

On the supports, you need to make marks at the fastening points of the screws. This will help to avoid the contact of the screws and the splitting of the tree from the load.

Choosing a bar of the desired thickness

Determine the optimal length

Cut out according to the markup

Making bevels

We fix the legs

During the manufacture of wooden beds, special attention is paid to the fasteners. Among those you will need:

• Self-tapping screws for wood (different lengths);
• Metal corners with a rounded stiffener (to make the wooden structure more reliable);
• Nails (not suitable for all woods).

How to choose self-tapping screws for fastening two specific parts:

1. Measure the thickness of the part to which the second part will be attached;
2. Measure the thickness of the part that is attached to the main one;
3. Add both values \u200b\u200b(in mm);
4. Subtract 10 mm from the resulting figure;
5. The resulting value will indicate the length of the self-tapping screw required to fasten the 2 above-mentioned parts.

For example:

1. The main part is 55 mm thick;
2. The thickness of the attached part is 25 mm;
3. 25 + 55 \u003d 80mm;
4. 80-10 \u003d 70mm.

To fasten two parts (55 and 25 mm) with a total thickness of 80 mm, self-tapping screws 70 mm long must be used.

Assembly

After attaching the legs, you can return the structure to its original position. Now it stands as it will stand during operation. Further assembly of the bed includes decorating two end and one long side with decorative boards, as well as creating a slatted bottom on which the mattress will fit in the future.

How to make homemade mattress slats:

1. Since the length of all rails will be the same, the length can be measured only for one rail, and the rest can be created by matching between its dimensions and the dimensions of the first (reference);
2. Each rail must be cut off, sanded and holes made in it for fasteners;
3. The slats are laid on the base of the bed at an equal distance (in relation to each other), and are attached with self-tapping screws screwed into the prepared holes to the side and central support. Before attaching the rails, mark the places where the legs are attached to the frame, so that while screwing in the screws, you do not damage the wood with excessive load. The distance between the screws that secure the legs and rails must be at least 5 cm.

We make slats by size

We grind them

We attach them to the base

Decor options

Three boards act as decorative finishing. They can be decorated with carving, which is done on a milling machine, or engraving. How to attach decorative elements:

1. After cutting and sanding, the decorative boards are attached to the top of the frame;
2. Joiner's glue is applied to the ends of the wooden planks, and the planks are pressed with clamps until they are completely fixed;
3. This decorative finish will not only reduce the risk of injury to the sleeper on the ends of the frame boards, but also give the bed a more beautiful look;
4. It is advisable to press the decorative boards with clamps using small wooden cuts. They increase the area of \u200b\u200bpressing of 2 boards to each other, and also protect decorative boards from marks left by clamps.

In addition to fixing decorative boards, you can use a carved headboard as a decor, or choose bed drawings that include a footboard. As a beautiful decorative element, you can create a special place for the cat at the bottom of the bed, or rather under it. Making this place is easy with a few planks. For the reliability of the fastening, as well as to prevent the bed from creaking, all the holes prepared for the self-tapping screws after the end of the work must be putty with putty on wood. In this case, the bed will not creak during sleep.

It is important for parents that their children grow up in a comfortable atmosphere, and nothing threatens their sleep. If a person has a minimum set of tools and basic knowledge, then dIY baby bed it will not be difficult to do, provided that you have Photo, product sketch, blueprints... The device of such furniture is simple.

Scheme and dimensions of a crib for a newborn

Parents know that a crib is especially important for a baby, especially between the ages of one and four years, because the baby sleeps a lot. The right furniture is the key to a comfortable sleep. For small apartments, such a crib in the nursery can also replace the playpen.
It is easy to make it in two or three days and provide for all the subtleties and nuances for the comfort of the child.

The right furniture is the key to a comfortable sleep

The first step is to figure out what elements this structure will consist of.

• Mattress. It is chosen based on the weight and age of the baby, therefore it is better not to do it yourself, but simply buy it in the store. The purchased mattress was developed jointly with orthopedists and takes into account all the body's needs for comfortable sleep and the correct formation of the child's spine. Mattresses are divided into two main types: on a spring block and without springs. The version with springs can be on an independent spring block (each spring is placed in a separate bag of non-woven material and the load on such a mattress is distributed pointwise) and on a dependent spring block (the springs are united by a metal frame, and the weight of the sleeper is distributed evenly over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe product).

  

  Comfortable hanging crib

  These mattresses are best purchased for children over 5 years old. And for babies with low weight, products on a springless block are recommended, where the frame itself, as a rule, consists of polyurethane foam or foam rubber and, depending on the degree of rigidity, can be supplemented with coconut coir or other materials.

• Frame. This element is made based on the size assumed by the bed mattress. The material for it is most often a planed board.
• Lamels. These parts of the product are designed to support the mattress from below and are slats inserted into the furniture frame. They form a grid with a distance of about 5 cm between each other (for ventilation of the mattress).

  

  Making a baby cot with your own hands master class with drawings and photos

• Sidewalls. They are a fence so that the child does not fall from the crib. Depending on the wishes of the parent, they can be high or low, solid or carved. At the headboard, their height will be higher than at the legs.

  

  Drawings and photos of a crib for a master class

• Legs. This element can be made by hand or purchased at a specialized furniture hardware store. They can be initially planed on the sides of the crib, or they can be screwed to it.

Crib drawing

Determining the model

In the children's room, several types of beds are most often used:

• With boxes
• Loft bed
• Bunk bed (if there are two babies in the room)

If the premise of the children's room does not allow you to put a large bed in the room, and you need a compact model that can save square meters, then it is better to choose a design with drawers. Drawers are used to store bedding, toys, children's items and everything that does not fit in a child's chest of drawers or drawers.

Baby cot on two levels for small children

In order for the furniture to be of high quality, it is necessary to select environmentally friendly materials for its manufacture. Thick plywood or wood is ideal. MDF or chipboard, popular in the furniture industry, are not worth purchasing for the manufacture of structures because of the adhesives used in the manufacture of materials. Chemicals can negatively affect the baby's body, causing allergies.

An original bed for a stylish interior of a children's room

Advice: It is not recommended to make a crib smaller than 1.5 * 0.6 meters, but you should not make it huge more than 1.8 * 0.7 meters. The child will quickly grow out of a small crib, and if you make it too big, the baby will not feel comfortable in it.

The base for such furniture is made solid, it can be purchased ready-made, or you can simply use a sheet of plywood instead.
Its dimensions should be based on the size of the purchased mattress. A grill can be purchased as a base, but plywood can be used as an option, since the child's weight is not so great.

Thick plywood or wood is ideal.

Wood shield. It is better to use wood with a low resin content, such as birch, linden. It is recommended to take the size of the shield two meters long, 60 centimeters wide and about 3 centimeters thick.

On the furniture board, the future outline of the workpiece is drawn with chalk according to the dimensions of the sketch. If it is necessary to make holes on the sides of the structure, then they are drawn by attaching a champagne glass or using an ordinary glass.

Furniture board and plywood can be sawn by purchasing from a store. As a rule, most stores have such services, but you must provide dimensions in millimeters and patterns. It is recommended to cut it on your own with a jigsaw, but if you do not have a jigsaw at hand, then you can cut the materials with a regular saw.

Furniture board and plywood can be sawn by purchasing from a store.

After cutting, all wood elements are sanded with sandpaper so that the materials from which the crib is made do not scratch the baby's delicate skin.

If it was not possible to find corners made of aluminum, then they are cut from an aluminum profile. The details of the bed must correspond to the sketch drawings. And the length of the corner from the profile should match the length of the side back of the furniture. Holes are made on these fasteners for threading self-tapping screws. The sides are attached with corners to the bed frame or plywood base, and this structure is tightened with eight self-tapping screws.

Original baby car bed for a boy

Initially, the parts are fixed on one side, then the future workpiece is turned over to the side. According to the diagram, the order of fastening the elements and the location of the parts should be checked from time to time. To make the product stable and strong, watch out for distortions and displacements of parts relative to each other. The bed walls are attached to each other and pulled together, if there are no holes in the walls, then they are made using a drill.

The frame part of the product is ready, it's time to assemble the backrest, which will be located above the child's head. If desired, it can be made in any shape, the main thing is that this piece of furniture fully fulfills its function, that is, it protects the baby from injury.

Carved wooden crib for a newborn baby

Very often, small children in a dream raise their heads up, so the sides here should be at least 10 centimeters high. Another advantage of the high headboards and headboards is that it prevents toys and bedding from being thrown out of bed.

Original baby cot for a boy

We make a headboard: we take a furniture board, from it, if you wish, you can make a carved back that looks beautiful and noble or decorate. The design of the headboard and backrest in the legs must match for the design to look organic.

We make a headboard: we take a furniture board, from it, if you wish, you can make a carved back that looks beautiful and noble or decorate.

We fasten the legs to the very body of the bed, which we purchase in a furniture accessories store. We do this using long-length self-tapping screws.

All elements of the bed frame are additionally carefully polished, right down to the slots and cutouts, so that the child does not get hurt by putting his fingers in the slot.

Tip: A smooth sanded surface can be obtained with a drill with an attachment or a sander.

Decorated, polished backrests are attached to the frame frame. So that the fasteners are not visible, they are drilled from below, directing the drill upward. Cutting holes should be as accurate as possible, because this part is easily damaged. We make the hole for the screed ourselves; it will be difficult to make it with a drill in this place. If the wood for making the crib is soft, then the hole will easily break through.

So that the fasteners are not visible, they are drilled from below, directing the drill upward

The configuration of the crib assumes that storage boxes are not attached to the bed frame, but look like roll-out pedestals. The drawers should be supplemented with wheels in order to roll out the storage container.

Stylish wooden crib for toddler

If the landlord decided to change the configuration of the crib so that the drawers slide out, then a transverse rail is attached to the bottom of the workpiece, and the product itself will stand on the side bars. In this case, the sidewalls are made higher than previously conceived by several centimeters, equal to the height of the boxes. The pull-out box (drawer) itself is placed on the guides.

Wooden crib for a bright and spacious room

For the boxes, we take plywood with a thickness of 1.2 cm, cut out the bottom and walls of the box, and tighten together with self-tapping screws. Additionally, the box is glued, because the things in the box bear the load on the structure. We attach the wheels to the bottom of the assembled box.

Bright spacious room with a cot

Legs on the bed, if it is decided to make them independently, are made from the remains of a furniture board or from scraps of square-shaped timber. Fix the legs to the furniture frame with self-tapping screws.

For the boxes, we take plywood with a thickness of 1.2 cm, cut out the bottom and walls of the box, and tighten together with self-tapping screws.

Bed decoration

When the work is completed, it is recommended to give the product a finished look. It is recommended to pass it with upholstery fabric for furniture. Previously, parts are cut out of the fabric by 2-3 centimeters more than the main parts and are overlocked so that they do not crumble. The fabric is fastened with a furniture stapler, and its sections are hidden inside the crib so as not to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the structure. During the decoration, the fabric is stretched so that no creases, folds and bubbles appear.

Baby cot for the smallest family member and small bedroom

Another finishing option would be varnishing the crib frame, headboard, backrest at the legs. For this it is recommended to use water-based quick-drying varnishes. More environmentally friendly furniture in the children's room will be stained. Previously, it is recommended to sand and polish all parts with a drill with a nozzle.

For a decorative look of the boxes, their facades are made with bright MDF or LDPS panels of blue, pink, light yellow, lilac and other colors.

Now it is fashionable to make furniture on your own at home, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Someone prefers to purchase blanks and assemble the necessary furniture from them, while someone does all the work on their own from start to finish. A homemade bed can be quite simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just craftsmanship and equipment - personal preference and financial ability play an important role. In this article, we will show you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please and be able to use it for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to select a suitable model and, taking into account the material used, prepare the tool.

Required tools

Depending on what material is selected, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

• Electric welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• File.
• Metal brush.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

For working with wood

• Electric jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw for wood.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Construction corner.
• Pencil.
• Plane.
• Chisel.
• Sanding machine.

As for consumables, we will talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Materials for making the bed:

1. Metal corner.
2. Profile or round pipe.
3. Solid wood.
4. Plywood.

The above materials can be used both individually and in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped with wooden backs, and a plywood product is assembled on a timber frame. There can be many options, and you can figure it out in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing the bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual patterns of placing the bed and find a new place for it. If so, check out a number of tips to help you do this.

• Do not install the bed with the headboard to the window opening, as there will be a draft when the window is open, and the head can blow out.
• If you place the bed with the headboard towards the doorway, then you will not be able to see who enters the bedroom.
• It is better that there is no chandelier hanging over the bed. She can break off and fall on a person lying in bed.
• In non-insulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to put the bed in such places.
• A shelf that is not securely nailed to the wall above your head can cause a lot of trouble too.
• In a narrow bedroom, the bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement can cause discomfort.
• Many people leave room for a laptop at the headboard. Note that this "thief of time" will deprive you in this case of many hours of good rest.

You might get the impression that there is no room for a bed in the bedroom, but this is not the case. We only gave recommendations, and you yourself decide how relevant they are in your case.

Wood bed

Don't be fooled by the seeming simplicity of the design. You need to tune in to the fact that you will have to work a lot to make a bed from solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original, while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to immediately decide on the design of the bed, so first, look at a few photos of wood products.

Photo of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take the drawing of the bed and redo it for themselves, deleting or adding something.

From an array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed, you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If it has not yet been purchased, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on the selling sites and start from this data. If you are planning to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made to order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively short article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we do not strive for this. Based on the example given, it will be possible to understand how to assemble a bed from an array.

Let's consider an example of making a wooden bed for a 200 × 160 cm mattress, if there are a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and in a smaller direction. Having purchased a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the bed being made to it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, remaking it to fit your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let's say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress, it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than the declared ones - 199 × 159 cm. You will need the following material:

• Beam 50 × 40 mm, length 209 cm - 19 pcs.
• Planed board 22 × 100 mm, 159.5 cm long - 18 pcs.
• PVA glue (furniture).
• Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of \u200b\u200bthe quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store for it.

Making a frame

The frame can be assembled on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200 × 160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm of tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three bars assembled into a single structure.

• Of 19 pcs. the purchased timber 40 × 50 mm, you need to choose 4 pcs. smoothest and with the least amount of knots.
• For further work, you need to cut off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the timber, and then, using the building corner, draw a cutting line. If you cannot cut straight with a hacksaw along the line, then it is better to use a miter box.
• You should get 2 bars of 160 cm and 2 bars of 208 cm (internal size of the bed length 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm).
• The cleanest side of the bars will be used as the front side (top of the bed), so we will lay the bars down with this side.
• You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut off 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (inner size of the bed width 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm).
• In order for the frame to be strong, the corner joints must be overlapped, therefore, for the second row, bars of a different size are used, which we cut out last.
• Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and attracted with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will then interfere with the work on grinding the surface.
• Now the bars of the third row are attached in the same way.

• Check that the corners of the bed are at a 90 ° angle. To do this, we will measure the dimensions of the assembled frame along the diagonals - they must be the same.
• After the glue has dried, you can continue working.
• Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can bend. To eliminate this, in the center of the bed, from one back to another, from below, you need to make a stiffener. To make it, you will need 2 bars 2 m long each. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This can be clearly seen in the photo.

The bed being manufactured has 4 legs located in the corners, but for safety reasons, you can set the fifth fulcrum in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

• The legs will be made from two 40 × 50 mm bars, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the preference of the owner in such a way that they will be attached to the lower two bars.
• After gluing and securing the legs with self-tapping screws, wait until the glue dries, and only then turn the bed over to the position in which it will now constantly be.

• To make the base for the mattress along the sides of the bed frame, you need to fix the remaining 50 × 40 mm beam (or existing trimmings), since the boards will be attached to it. The lower edge of the upper beam of the frame will serve as a reference point.
• The width of the inner part of our product is 160 cm, therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of the board creaking, you can make 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or slightly less).

• Having sanded the boards, you need to lay them on the frame in such a way that they do not touch the sides of the walls of the frame, and fix them.
• Since the self-tapping screws will be screwed in from the edge of the board, it will be necessary to drill holes in each board under them using a thin drill.
• As for the distance between the boards, we find it empirically. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We will retreat from the edges by 5 mm. There are 199 cm left. Divide by 16 (the number of boards). 199/16 \u003d 12.44 cm. Let's round it up, and it turns out that you need to apply markings on the support bar every 12.4 cm. Since the width of the board is 10 cm, the gap between them will turn out to be 2.4 cm, which completely suits us.

• If you need to get a greater distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and re-perform the calculations according to the scheme we have given.
• Now you need to sand the entire structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed out of the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
• It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a nozzle on which an emery cloth is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process by hand using a fine-grained emery cloth.

• The bed needs to be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The job is best done with a spray gun. As a last resort, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that the appearance of the applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You may have noticed that we have 3 more boards left. We will make a back from them, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm, and the width is 170 cm, but this is not important, since it will not be one with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the level with the mattress.

Its manufacture is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off at 170 cm each.Of the scraps, we make 11 boards of 45 cm each.If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then through one board you can screw 2 boards of 40‒42 cm. Just like the beds, the back must be given a presentable look by varnishing it.

The back can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock on the wall. More practical is to fix the backrest firmly to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step by step instructions

Manufacturing chipboard structures can seem very difficult due to the nature of this material. If you cut, grind and glue the edge at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with the cutting of chipboard, since the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided by making a drawing in advance and ordering the production of parts in a furniture workshop. At home, all that remains is to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remnants of the stove, you can make shelves for books or something else that is needed in the household.

So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To get the job done, you need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
• jigsaw;
• confirmation drill;
• bit extender;
• bits (cross and hex);
• mallet;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• awl;
• roulette.

You will also need consumables:

• Confirmates - 50 pcs.
• Stickers or plugs for confirms - 50 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.8 × 45 mm - 15 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm - 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm - 40 pcs.
• Furniture corner - 12 pcs.
• Linear roller - 8 pcs.
• Wide furniture handles - 2 pcs.
• Plastic legs - 12 pcs.
• Bar 20 × 45 mm (3 m) - 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since the mattress will be 200 × 70 cm, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten slats on one side, you need to fix the corners.

First, we will make boxes that can be pushed under the bed. The first step is to assemble the frame. To do this, lay out the workpieces so that the part glued with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to mix up the sides. It is good if the edge is not glued to the end of the inner part, then you will not mix it up. If the edges of the parts are pasted over in a circle (which is wrong), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. After making sure that everything matches, you can start assembling.

Having departed from the lower (or upper) edge of about 3 cm, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, since one awkward movement - the part will be damaged. The thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, drill a hole with a little core and without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on unused leftovers of the sheet.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to fasten the bottom, eight confirmations are enough - 2 on each side. These boxes are not designed to hold very heavy items, because the plastic rollers are not designed for this.

It remains to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second is being assembled in the same sequence.

Putting the finished drawers aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since boxes will be installed on one side, you need to assemble 3 parts together, using 3 confirmations on each side.

As a result, we will have such a "bench".

Now we will assemble a decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmations will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with the pull-out of the drawers, and we connect them together from the inside with self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm.

Need to nail the plastic legs.

Let's start making ribbing. On the front of the frame, draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we fix the bars with the corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is aligned.

Instead of ribbing from boards, you can use a cut-to-size chipboard slab.

After that, it will remain with 30 mm self-tapping screws to screw the bars to the opposite sidewall.

Once you roll up the drawers and put the mattress down, you can start using the bed.

As you can see, with the right approach, it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from chipboard at home. The design can be of any size, as in the following video.

Video: we make a double bed podium from chipboard

Pallet bed

Nowadays, beds made from pallets are in vogue. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not the case, because pallet beds can also be found in houses with a fairly rich environment.

Let's move on from words to deeds. Consider one of the options for assembling a bed from pallets. How many will you need? It all depends on the size and design of the manufactured product. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If there is such an opportunity, then you need to choose the maximum whole pallets. They need to be sanded.

All pallets should be painted using non-toxic wood paint. Since wood is very hygroscopic, it is most likely that the pallets will need to be opened with paint 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, it is necessary to fasten them together. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled under the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together with metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws for wood.

Thanks to such a simple technology, you can make a pretty decent bed from pallets.

The backrest can also be made of pallets.

From the remnants of pallets, you can collect some kind of furniture and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

Plywood

You won't surprise anyone with a plywood product, but you can make furniture out of it at home. We will use sheets of the FSF brand, since not all plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Consider an example of making a bed for a box-spring mattress 1900 × 900 × 200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. Of 18 mm plywood, the bed will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use sheets with a thickness of 15 mm - they are much stronger than standard chipboard.

• Plywood 2.44 × 1.22 m - 1 sheet.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 2 pcs. 1.9 m each.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 7 pcs. 0.9 m each.
• If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then buy a PVC edge. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p / m.
• Moment glue - 1 tube.
• Screws 5 × 40 mm - 26 pcs.
• Screws 5 × 60 mm - 12 pcs.
• Screws 3 × 9 mm - 8 pcs.
• Foot pads - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Instead of screws, you can use wood screws.

The side wall of the back of the bed is large in height. This is to ensure that the drawers being pushed under the bed do not hit the walls. If there are no boxes, then the side walls can be made the same.

Making a bed

From the existing plywood sheet, you need to cut out the parts corresponding to the drawing.

Film faced plywood can be used if desired. In this case, it is important to take into account that it is very difficult to cut such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating. In addition, then the edges will necessarily need to be pasted over with furniture edge.

To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and lead the jigsaw slowly - this way we get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should get parts of the following dimensions:

1. Front back - 932 × 650 mm.
2. Backrest - 932 × 500 mm.
3. Front side panel - 1900 × 200 mm.
4. Rear side panel - 1900 × 350 mm (if without cabinets, then we also make 1900 × 200 mm).

• The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this, you can use a small wooden block wrapped with medium-grit emery cloth.
• After that, we assemble the bed frame.

Base for the bed

• The backrests are attached to the side plates with 5 × 40 mm screws (2 for each front side, and 3 for the back).
• Then we fasten the timber to the side rails of the bed using screws 5 × 40 mm (7 pcs. Per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If you drive deeper, then the screw will go through the plywood.
• We fix the crossbeams from a bar on horizontal bars with self-tapping screws 5 × 60 mm (1 for each point).
• Using screws 5 × 40 mm, screw the bars to the backs from the inside (3 screws for each).
• At the last stage, we screw the thrust bearings from the bottom to the backs - 2 screws 3 × 9 mm each.
• We set up the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If you use a soft mattress instead of a spring mattress on the frame, then you need to cut the bottom out of plywood and screw it to the bars from above.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a bed from plywood.

Made of metal

If you have some skills as a welder, you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the option of a bolted connection, since such a product will loosen very quickly.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that it looks very presentable.

For its manufacture, the following materials were needed:

• Profile pipe 50 × 25 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 40 × 40 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 20 × 20 mm (or 15 × 15) - 40 m.

In addition to pipes, metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bender is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes, and not use those that have been in the garage for several years, then do not opt \u200b\u200bfor rusty ones, since then they will need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame making

Since the bed is collapsible, you can make parts of it in parts. Let's start with the backs.

• The base will be pipes 40 × 40 mm. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m.If the ceilings are low, then they can be reduced to 185 cm.
• The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we cut off 8 identical pieces of 82 cm each (90- (4 + 4) \u003d 82) from the 20 × 20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes 30 cm each.
• For now, we will use only half of the prepared material.
• On a flat plane parallel to each other, you need to lay the rack pipes.
• Having retreated from the bottom 40 cm and from the edge 1 cm, a pipe 82 cm long is seized.
• It is necessary to check the correctness of the set angles with the building corner.
• After 95 cm, the second pipe is caught.
• We return to the first, and on the tacks we assemble the grate - 2 pipes of 30 cm each and a cross-piece of 82 cm.
• We do the same with the second lattice.
• After checking the angles and alignment of the tacked parts, they can be welded thoroughly.
• The second back is made in the same way.

Now let's start making shelves.

• We also cut the profile pipe 50 × 25 mm into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
• The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we need 26 pieces of pipe 20 × 20 mm, 83 cm each (88- (2.5 + 2.5) \u003d 83).
• 2 pipes are placed on the edge parallel to each other.
• We mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
• We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
• After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second is assembled in the same way.
• To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the lattice on the back. The pipe used for the fence must be bent, not welded at an angle. If there is no pipe bender, then you can fill it with sand and bend it in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

• In the same way, 3 more vertical posts are welded, but it will not weld to the back, so you need to weld a small bar from the end.

The time has come to put the structure together, for this we will use welding a little more.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

• From a 20 × 20 mm pipe, you need to cut off 16 pieces of 10 cm each and weld to the backs at the junction.
• Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the grill tube and clipped to the backrest. If this is not done, then later it will not be possible to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not coincide.
• After checking the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

• With the help of a grinder, it is necessary to process the welding seams.

Assembly

• Now let's put together the bed.
• In order for the collapsible parts to hold together securely, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

• We will attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

• At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
• Once the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and assembled.
• To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, at home you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed.

Making decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then in the manufacture of a bed, instead of standard shaped pipes, you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

A person may have the wrong opinion that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, then this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Design selection

The wrong bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in the field:

1. It is best if the bed is made from natural materials. When using chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.), the products must be certified, intended for the manufacture of furniture.
2. Bed size matters a lot. One bedroom can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double one - 200, 180 and 160 cm. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act on the principle - the more the better. The length of the bed should be 20 cm longer than the person's height (at least 10 cm).
3. Structures made of chipboard (and chipboard) are the most unreliable and brittle.
4. A solid bed base prevents the mattress from ventilating, but too little ribbing can cause the mattress to deform.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are nuances of choice here.

1. The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not deform too much under the weight of the person lying on it, so it must be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress suits you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before purchasing.
2. If you have purchased a hard mattress, then you can put a thick mattress topper on it, for the manufacture of which latex or memoriform is used (with a thickness of 3 to 10 cm). If you have not decided on the choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

As for the design features of the bed, this is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room, you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, folding or sliding from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed in the bedroom

One bedroom

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, be it a child or an adult. Also 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example for two children. Be that as it may, first you need to decide which design is suitable, and then start manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photo of single beds

Double

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep, you need to take care of its size and design. See a photo exhibition of two-piece pieces

Photo of double beds

Bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairytale castle in which the child will be happy to fall asleep. When choosing a design for this kind of baby bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a baby bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

The average person spends almost a third of his life in a dream, and his activity in the waking state depends on good rest at this time, and therefore, success in business and personal life. The quality of a night's rest largely depends on the comfort of the body position during sleep, which a comfortable bed should provide.

Nowadays, in the assortment of furniture stores, you can pick up almost any, even a very unexpected version of this necessary piece of furniture, but for various reasons it is far from always possible to purchase a suitable model in all respects. Therefore, the question often arises of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and save a decent amount at the same time.

Variety of bed models

Before choosing a bed model for manufacturing, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them in order to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, furniture designers and constructors have developed a huge number of options, and many of them may well be implemented at home.

The main difficulty of the self-manufacturing process mainly lies in the preparation and processing of structural parts, since for these operations it is often simply necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, in order to decide on the creation of this piece of furniture, it is worth first of all to consider some models of various levels of complexity, made from different materials.

Bed with drawers

The bed, equipped with drawers, can be single, one-and-a-half or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there is usually a large number of toys and objects for various developmental activities. This design is convenient in that it is possible, without cluttering the room with unnecessary furniture, to create a place for storing various things. Moreover, by pulling out such drawers, you can immediately see all the contents, and not delve into the jungle of a massive deep cabinet, where it is sometimes difficult to find the right thing.

A bed with drawers is a great solution for a child's room

By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated than the usual one, where free space is left under the berth. The main thing is to draw up high-quality drawings, put down the correct dimensions in them, process all the parts intended for assembly well, assemble them carefully and find accessories that are easy to use. In this case, the sliding elements should have an easy move, freely move out and slide in, and for this you can pick up special side guides or fix small wheels on the bottom of the box.

Hanging bed

This original version of the berth is not so difficult to manufacture as it might seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be met for the effective functioning of this structure is the sufficiency of free space, since the bed is designed to swing in a certain amplitude range.

The bed itself consists of a frame - a frame and lamellas, but it must also be taken into account that all parts must be made of high-quality material and reliably fastened together. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high a load on the supports. A mattress, which sometimes has excessive unnecessary weight, should have the same quality.

Metal bed

A bed made of a metal corner, rod, strip and fittings is available for execution only by an experienced welder, but this option will last a long time without repair, and will not bother you with a creak. A metal bed is especially well suited to a certain style of interior, for example, retro, empire and even modern.

Such a "work of art" is available only to an experienced master

Stable and heavy in weight, the structure nevertheless looks light, almost weightless, so it will perfectly fit into any environment and become an element decorating it. For many, metal causes negative associations due to rust, which can leave ugly stains on the mattress and bedding. You should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technology, varnishes and paints have been developed that will protect not only bed accessories from rusty stains, but also the metal itself from this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not bend, since the frame has sufficient rigidity and solidity.

Bed-wardrobe transformer

A bed that turns into a wardrobe is indispensable in the cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this version, the bed should be easy to clean and imitate a wardrobe or cabinet.

They can be of various sizes, imitate a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow chest of drawers with a table top. The latter option can be used both for a children's room and as an additional, reserve bed - in case guests arrive. In addition, this design is sometimes installed in a loggia or on an insulated balcony, because in the summer it is so pleasant to relax in the fresh air.

Bed-curbstone - always ready reserve bed

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of such a model is to choose the right lifting mechanism, and, of course, it is good to process all the details of the structure so that it can be easily installed and removed, without distortions and jamming.

Podium bed

Another bed option that will help save space in the conditions of small areas of modern apartments is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the sleeping place will not take up a single extra centimeter in the room, since the bed is removed for the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a useful area, for example, by equipping it for a workplace.

It is also not so difficult to make such a model, but a lot of high-quality materials will be required for the bed and the podium, and the work itself will take a lot of time. However, the result will surpass all expectations, since the exit will not only have a comfortable sleeping place, but also an original interior design.

In addition to the beds mentioned, from the popular, often chosen models, one can name such as a structure with a lifting mechanism, an orthopedic frame, bunk beds, with a frame made of wooden slats, a sofa bed and others. Some of them will be discussed below in more detail, with the accompanying illustrated instructions for their manufacture.

Find out by examining the two available options in a special article on our portal.

We make a bed with our own hands

Double wooden bed

Wooden double bed "classic" type

This is an ordinary bed of standard sizes, made of natural wood, which can be processed by yourself, bought ready-made or sent to a carpentry workshop for accurate cutting and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed, you will need the following materials:

• Pine timber for a box and legs with a section of 50 × 50 mm, a length of 2200 mm - 15 pieces.
• Pine planed board 2000 mm long, 100 mm wide, 20 mm thick - 22 pcs.
• Joiner's glue or PVA for furniture.
• Self-tapping screws for 65 and 40 mm.
• Metal corners with a shelf width of 50 mm.

The frame being made is intended for a mattress with a size of 2000 × 1600 mm, therefore the inner space should have dimensions of 2100 × 1700 mm, and when measured along the outer edge - 2200 × 1800 mm.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration
	Since the box for the bed frame must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a wall width of 50 mm, the timber must be glued (3 or 4 pcs.) For this, the sides are coated with wood glue, the bars are laid on top of each other, compressed in clamps and left to dry completely.
	Further, the resulting glued blanks must be adjusted to size. So, to assemble the box, two side panels (drawers) with a length of 2200 mm will be required, one 2100 mm for the middle longitudinal lintel, and two end drawers with a length of 1610 mm.
	In order to get a reliable lock connection at the corners, 50 mm are measured at the edges of the sides, on the upper and lower bars of the blanks - these fragments must be carefully sawed off and removed without affecting the middle bar of the panel. On blanks for the front sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle bar and then carefully removed. Then, the protruding middle parts of the side bars are coated with glue and installed in the gap formed between the two bars of the box end panels. After that, they need to be squeezed in clamps and left to dry completely.
	You can do it in a different way by applying the connection of the ligation of the bar. In this case, the bars are glued into a box already cut. To do this, the first row of timber is laid out on a flat floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its lateral sides should be 2100 mm, the end sides - 1500 mm. The end parts of the side panel timber are coated with glue, and the bars of the box end sides are pressed against them, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The corners of the rectangle are set using a construction square, and checked by measuring the diagonals - they must be the same length. Further, the middle row is glued to the bottom row, in which the length of the side bars is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm. Its ends are coated with glue, and it is placed between the two bars of the sides, and then fixed. Then, the middle row, in addition to gluing, is fixed to the bottom one with self-tapping screws. In the last, top row, the timber has the same dimensions and is laid in the same way as the first lowest row. The bar is glued, screwed on with self-tapping screws and left to dry. This assembly method is more complicated, since in the absence of the appropriate experience from the master, the corners can go awry.
	The next step is to fix the middle element of the structure - a jumper glued from two bars 2000 mm long. Before fixing the lintel, the bed box is turned over, the end sides are marked from the inside in order to accurately find their middle. The jumper on the bottom must match the level of the box. Then, on the bottom row of the box beam, in the designated places, thrust bars 150 mm long are screwed on. They will serve as a support for the central longitudinal partition. For joining with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower beam of the lintel. Fastening is done with glue and self-tapping screws. A metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm can also be used as a support - corresponding holes are drilled in it for fastening to the walls of the box and to the cross member. The finished lintel will be an additional base for the boards laid on top of the bed frame.
	The model of the bed under consideration has 4 legs in the corners - it is also convenient to immediately fasten them with screws or bolts now, while the bed box is in an inverted state. The legs will be pieces of the same bar 50 × 50 mm. The legs are fixed to the structure first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws or through bolts, and it is additionally recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners. The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be chosen arbitrarily, but it usually ranges from 200 to 300 mm. The shorter the legs, the more stable the bed will be, but on the other hand, the low height makes cleaning difficult.
	In addition, so that the center does not sag, one or two more props of the same height must be fixed to the middle jumper - then the structure will have higher rigidity and reliability. The middle support legs can be fixed in different ways. This illustration shows an option when the legs are fixed with bolts on both sides of the lintel.
	After the glue has dried in the joints of the supports, the bed box is again turned over to its normal position and installed on the already mounted "standard" legs.
	Further, on the side long panels of the box, lines are marked along which a beam or board with a width of about 30 ÷ 40 mm and a thickness of 25 ÷ 30 mm will be attached. This will be the support for the subsequent installation of the ceiling boards. Support shelves should be positioned so that they are flush with the center bar. Usually, they are guided by the gluing line of the upper bar of the sides of the box - if everything was carried out correctly, then compliance with the general level will be ensured.
	The next step is to lay boards on top of the prepared support shelves. They should not rest against the sides of the box, otherwise unpleasant squeaks may appear during the operation of the bed. Therefore, a gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm on each side must be maintained between the walls and the boards.
	The flooring does not need to be made continuous at all - the boards are laid out at a distance of 20 ÷ 40 mm from each other.
	The boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the supporting shelves, and in the center - to the longitudinal lintel. At each attachment point, two self-tapping screws 40 mm long are screwed in. To avoid the appearance of cracks on the edges of the boards or on the shelves on which they rest, it is recommended to pre-drill the holes for the self-tapping screws with a small diameter drill - 3 mm.
	After completing the installation of the boards, you need to revise all surfaces of the structure. If necessary, remove protruding glue drips, large burrs, etc.
	Go to finishing the assembled bed. First you need to bring all surfaces to a perfectly smooth state. For such wood processing, it is better, of course, to use a belt sander, eccentric or vibration type, on which sandpaper with the desired grain size is sequentially installed, ranging from 80-100, and ending with 280-400.
	In the absence of a special tool, you can use an electric drill by installing a grinding attachment on it. If the wood was processed using power tools, then after them you need to carefully inspect the product, since it is possible that in some places you will have to finish the work manually. After finishing the sanding work, the finished bed must be well cleaned of dust and small sawdust, that is, prepared for coating.
	If the product is immediately varnished, then the parts must first be primed. If the wood is darkened by a stain, then it is used first. The coating process is done with a brush or spray.
	Further, if it is planned to emphasize the textured pattern of wood, then after the stain dries, they are again passed over the surface with sandpaper.
	It is advisable to cover not only from the outside of the bed, but also from the back, invisible to the eye. The fact is that the stain is to a certain extent an antiseptic and is able to protect wood from "traditional" pests - microflora or insects.
	The next step is to varnish the product. For this, it is best to use water-based formulations, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment. Such varnishes do not have a poisonous odor, are environmentally friendly and dry quickly enough, and after drying they give a pleasant matte shine. To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will need to apply several thin coats of varnish. Moreover, the subsequent layers are applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
	The finished bed, finished with stain and varnish, should look something like this.
	In between varnishing the bed, while the next layers dry out, you can make a full-fledged or an impromptu back. In this case, the backrest day panel is made of planks and mounted in the form of a decorative grille. It will require three boards 100 ÷ 120 mm wide, 1600 mm long, and 11 ÷ 12 pieces 400 ÷ 460 mm high. The lattice is also sanded and coated with the same compounds as the bed itself.
	In this model, the headboard is not fixed to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress. The last step is to fit the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for use.

Double bed with installed lifting mechanism

Another option for a double bed is a model made with chipboard. In this design, unlike the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. The advantage of this bed can also be called the ability to usefully use the closed space under the berth, since the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily raise the wooden frame without removing the mattress.

The disadvantages of this model include its massiveness, which makes it impossible to install it in a small room. In addition, chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, since it is made using binders, which can often release toxic fumes into the environment, which is completely unhealthy for humans.

It should be noted that when choosing furniture made of chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for effective ventilation of the room in which it will be located. And for the manufacture of bed parts, chipboard panels should be purchased that have a formaldehyde emission class - E1.

So, to make a bed with a standard mattress size 1800 × 2000 × 200 mm, you need to prepare the following materials:

• Chipboard sheet 16 mm thick and 3500 × 1750 mm in size.
• Two sheets of fiberboard 5 mm thick, standard size 2745 × 1220 mm.
• Beam with a section of 50 × 50 mm, 18 m.
• Plank 10 ÷ 15 mm thick, 60 mm wide - 20 m or 10 mm plywood, 1525 × 1525 mm in size.
• Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
• Self-tapping screws, bolts.
• Metal corners.
• Sheathing fabric, 1500 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
• Sintepon 1600 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
• Foam rubber 2 sheets, 10 mm thick and 3000 × 1000 mm in size.
• Staples for stapler 8 ÷ 10 mm.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.

AND. Chipboard 16 mm thick is used to make:

- headboard - 1 piece, size 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have right angles;

- side panel of the box - 2 pcs., 2330 × 350 mm;

- end panel of the box - 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;

- internal partition - 1 pc., 2010 × 280 mm.

B. Details from a bar of 50 × 50 mm, fixed in a box:

- longitudinal elements fixed on the side panels - 2 pcs., 2010 mm long;

- transverse piece fixed to the end panel - 1 pc., Length 1810 mm.

- racks 100 mm high - 4 pcs.

IN. Details from a bar of 50 × 50 mm for the manufacture of a lifting frame:

- longitudinal elements of the inner lathing - 5 pcs., 2005 mm long;

- transverse details of the inner lathing - 2 pcs., 1805 mm long.

G. Plank or sawn from plywood (10 mm) lamellas 60 × 15 × 1805 mm - 11 pcs.

D. Sheathing of the bottom of the box - 2 sheets of fiberboard 1650 × 2330 mm each.

Having made all the elements necessary for the assembly of the structure, you can proceed to the sheathing and assembly of parts.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	If the headboard has a rounded shape, then the template for it is first made on paper, and then transferred to the chipboard and cut out with an electric jigsaw. It is very important to take into account that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - this will make the structure more rigid. Usually, at the junction of the floor and the wall, there is a plinth that has a certain width. Therefore, in the upper part in the center of the headboard, a special support element is fixed from a bar or a piece of chipboard, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth. With its help, it will provide an emphasis on the back against the wall. You can do it differently by removing the section of the baseboard from the place where the bed will be installed.
	Next, the box and headboard parts are tried on at the installation site. Then, the exposed panels of the chipboard box are fastened to each other at the corners using pieces of timber or metal corners. The headboard panel is not yet attached, as it must first be covered with fabric. On the fixed panels, parts from a bar are tried on.
	Lamellas are tried on across the timber laid on the chipboard, and their location is marked.
	The next step is the head of the bed is sheathed with foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and staples. The foam is leveled and first secured to the front of the panel.
	Then, its edges are wrapped and shot with staples from the back of it.
	From above, the foam rubber is covered with the fabric selected for this. It is recommended to purchase a dense material that can repel dust.
	The sheathing work is carried out starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is carefully stretched and fixed in the same way as the foam rubber on the back of the headboard.
	The covered backrest can now be installed in its permanent place.
	Further, the frame of the lifting frame is manufactured. Its parts are assembled and fixed using metal corners. All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, starting from the middle of the structure. The middle bar should rest on a chipboard partition fixed in the bed frame. Having assembled the frame, it is temporarily set aside.
	Further, the walls of the box are sheathed both from the inside and outside. At first, a synthetic winterizer is also fixed on them with a stapler, and then the same fabric as the head of the bed was previously sheathed.
	In the next step, the elements of the lifting mechanism are marked and fixed on the frame.
	Further? the frame is tried on on the box and the place of installation of the bar on the side panels of the box is marked, on which the second side of the elements of the lifting mechanism will be fixed.
	Then, the beam is fixed, and the fixed part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the structure is tested. The beam is fixed on the chipboard using self-tapping screws 50 mm long. Their caps must be sunk into the wood by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.
	After that, lamellas are fixed to the frame, across the bars, using self-tapping screws.
	When folded, the lifting mechanism looks like this. It is located in the formed niche between two bars.
	In the illustration presented, you can see a semicircular cutout made in the central partition. This space is necessary for the free lifting of the frame grille.
	Further, the structure must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work.
	The next step is to prepare sheets of fiberboard, which will be sheathed with the bottom of the bed box. This will create a complete cabinet suitable for storing various things.
	Sheathing can be carried out using staples or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide heads.
	After installing the bottom part, the bed is lowered and installed in place.
	In this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks fixed on the side internal beam. Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side beam, but also in the corners of the box. They are mounted at the same height and are necessary for rigid support of the movable frame when it is folded.
	For the convenience of raising the frame together with the mattress laid on it, loops sewn from fabric or peculiar handles are fixed in its front part. They are screwed with two or four self-tapping screws with wide caps to the end beam of the frame.
	A bed with an open mattress looks like this.

Single bed

This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or teenager, since it has quite suitable dimensions. As for any piece of furniture installed in a bedroom or children's room, you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material for this product.

single bed

Dimensions in these drawings are in inches, 1 inch \u003d 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will be easy to translate the presented sizes into the units familiar to domestic craftsmen.

This table shows the manufacturing process of this simple bed model:

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	For the manufacture of this bed model, the following materials and parts are required, which are listed in accordance with the diagram shown in the illustration: - A - legs. To manufacture these parts, you will need a 2 × 2 ″ (50.8 × 50.8 mm) bar. The height of the headboard timber - 33½ ″ (851 mm) - 2 pcs., For the footboard –17¼ ″ (438 mm) - 2 pcs.; - B - the back and front walls of the bed box, as well as the wall located at the footboard, are made of 1 × 9¼ ″ (24.5 × 245 mm) board, the length of the side elements is 75½ ″ (1918 mm) - 2 pcs., foot - 39 ″ (991 mm) -1 pc. - C - longitudinal beams for flooring, made of 2 × 1 ″ (50.8 × 25.4 mm) planks with a length of 75 ″ (1910 mm) - 2 pcs .; - D - overlapping boards 1 × 4 ″ (25.4 × 102 mm) and length - 39 ″ (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.; - E - lower headboard piece 1 × 6 ″ (25.4 × 152 mm) - 1 pc. and an upper part with a section of 1 × 9¼ "(25.4 × 235 mm) - 1 pc., the length of both parts is 39" (990.6 mm). In the future, a curly back will be cut from the board prepared for the upper element.
	The first step is to make construction details and assemble them into separate sections, from which the bed will be mounted. The most difficult part in terms of shape is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curved shape, but must also have a perfectly finished top and bottom edge. The indicated dimensions are applied to the prepared board, with the help of an impromptu compass, the rounded upper part of the back is determined. You can make a so-called pattern on paper, and then transfer the shape to the board. Then, sawing with an electric jigsaw, processing the edges with a milling cutter and grinding with a grinder or manually. It is very important that the surfaces are brought to a perfectly smooth state, as they will not be sheathed with fabric or other material. In addition to this detail, the bottom panel for the headboard is cut out. It is much easier to deal with it, since the most difficult task will be to cut off the edges exactly, and then process them well.
	Then, legs 851 mm high are cut out of a bar with a section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm. They also need to be well processed and cleaned. After that, on the sides of the bars, which will be turned inward, markings are made to connect them with the crossbars.
	In order for the assembly of the headboard to be neat and to have strong connections, you can proceed according to the presented scheme. To do this, 2 ÷ 3 holes are drilled in the bars and end sides of the boards for each of the elements. Next, dowels 80 mm long and 8 mm in diameter are prepared. Then the dowels and abutting end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue. Further, the dowels are carefully driven through the beam into the transverse parts of the headboard back. If the process is carried out in this way, then the joints on the outside of the legs are closed with a wooden strip, which is fixed with glue, and for the period of drying, the leg is squeezed in clamps.
	Provided that the covering decorative slats are glued, on the outside of the legs, landing grooves are left for the side panels of the bed (drawers). In this case, they are attached to the side of the legs, which is the most durable connection. If it is not planned to fix additional linings that cover the dowel joints on the leg, then the holes in the bars are not drilled through, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25 ÷ 30 mm. Then, also with the help of glue and dowels, the headboard parts are connected to each other. This assembly method is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a careful approach and precise work, it is quite feasible.
	Next, the legs and the footboard are made. The height of the timber for them should be 438 mm, and the panel size is 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm long. The connection of the footboard parts is carried out in the same way as in the headboard section, that is, using dowels and glue.
	The next step is to connect the side panels (drawers) with the headboard and footboard sections. They can be fixed in different ways. The most common option is metal corners. They are screwed to the tsars and legs with self-tapping screws.
	In addition to metal corners, there are special parts to connect these parts, called bed ties or hooks. With their help, the side panels are hung on the legs of the headboard and footboard. If hooks are used for connection, then the structure will be collapsible.
	The next step to the side bars is to fix the support shelves or elements made of timber or docks. They are fixed along the lower edge of the sidewall.
	Glue is applied to the bar, then the part is aligned on the tsar and pressed against it with clamps. When the glue is completely dry, the parts are screwed in with self-tapping screws.
	In the next step, prepared boards are laid out and aligned on the bars fixed to the sidebars.
	When the lamella boards are fastened to the bars, the entire structure acquires the necessary rigidity. Each of the boards is screwed on with two self-tapping screws on both sides. The holes for the self-tapping screws are marked by drilling (3 mm).

The bed options presented above can be considered the most affordable for self-production. In order for the work to be effective, it is necessary to prepare well for it, equipping the home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality material. Having fulfilled these conditions and performing all technological operations carefully and without haste, it is quite possible to get a high-quality piece of furniture that will last for many years.

Video: DIY bed making master class

Even the simplest model of the bed is sold at a price of at least 7,500 rubles. For some, this is not money, but the main problem is different. Not every finished bed can be placed where you want - typical dimensions do not allow. And if we are talking about a small garden house, a modest veranda or a gazebo, then the size of the product is the determining criterion, and hardly anyone will buy a bed for such use in a furniture salon, given its cost.

The expediency of making wood furniture with your own hands in many cases is more than obvious. And how to competently approach the solution of this issue, what to foresee - we will consider all the nuances of organizing the "home production" of a wooden bed with our own hands.

On many sites, it is recommended when choosing bed parameters to be guided by standard mattress sizes (2000 x 1500). The argument is that it should fit snugly in place. Is it really relevant, the author suggests to the reader to decide. It is only worth noting that the beauty of making with your own hands is the ability to choose not only materials, but also the dimensions and shapes of any product.

The same goes for the mattress. If desired, it is easy to "construct" yourself. For example, from foam rubber sheets, which will not be difficult to cover with a fabric (a cover, sewn to size). As a last resort, the mattress can be ordered from a special workshop, according to an individual drawing. Therefore, “looking back” at him is hardly reasonable.

So, let's start the instructions for making a wooden bed with preparatory measures.

Main - for the frame

High-quality wood blanks (board, timber) are expensive. How can you save money? For the frame, you should take even samples, with a minimum of knots. This will allow you to polish the wood more thoroughly (a grinder to help) and decorate it with high quality, with anything. As a rule, homemade beds are covered with varnish, and all defects are clearly visible through its layer. But for legs, slats, you can purchase wood at a lower price. Given that these elements are not so striking, second-rate products are enough.

The wood species also matters. Since few people nowadays put homemade beds in living rooms (except from expensive wood, by special order), you should choose breeds that are less prone to rotting (). After all, self-made such pieces of furniture are installed mainly in rooms (or outside them), in which temperature drops and dampness are frequent.

Larch and pine can be distinguished from affordable species. Spruce, although it is a coniferous tree, should not be used. She has a soft structure, therefore, there is no need to talk about the strength of the bed. Its structure will loosen up rather quickly, and you will have to systematically repair it.

For finishing the bed

Homemade beds are rarely painted. Basically, the material is well polished and. Few people use a primer for surface treatment of wood, although the expediency of its use is obvious. First, by penetrating into the structure, the soil strengthens its top layer. Secondly, the consumption of paint and varnish is reduced, since the impregnation has already filled all the microcavities. And given the cost of high quality varnish, which significantly exceeds the price of primers, this is an important aspect.

Drawing up a drawing

We'll have to answer two questions - how many people the bed is designed for, and how old they are. Recommended sizes:

• width: for one - 95 ± 5, for two - 180 ± 15. For the so-called "lorry" 130 ± 20 is enough;
• length: for a child - 150, for an adult - 200;
• frame height - within 40.

But worth recalling is not a standard, but just a recommendation. The choice of parameters is made arbitrarily, based on the specifics of the installation of the bed.

Selection of lumber

The scheme of a wooden bed is simple, but using the same samples to make the same type, but several different structural parts, is hardly reasonable.

Frame

For the side walls, a board (2 pcs.) 2 500 x 300 is taken. The thickness is within 20 - 25. But for the front and back there are options. In order to reduce the cost of the product, ready-made plates can be used. For example, OSB or chipboard, but only laminated. It will add a protective coating and strength to the material, and will solve the problem with an attractive appearance.

Some craftsmen assemble front and rear "shields" from the same board, then sheathed them with thin plywood. How much better it is, everyone will determine for himself, but the fact that making such a wooden bed will take much more time is unambiguous.

Legs

A bar with a side of 40 is enough. The length depends on how much you want to raise the bed above the floor. Exactly the same wood specimens are also suitable for use as frame supports. It is not difficult to calculate the total length of the workpiece, depending on the bed parameters indicated in the drawing.

Frame

The mattress will fit on it. A thin, narrow board is also quite suitable (the main thing is to correctly determine the interval between the elements), and a small section bar. Alternatively, thick plywood or chipboard. The frame layout is so simple that it is not difficult to choose the optimal workpieces.

Required tool

Explaining point by point what exactly is needed to work with wood, to an economic person, is a waste of time. You just need to not forget about the level (construction)... At each stage of assembling a wooden bed, you will have to control the strict symmetry of all its component parts. To determine "by eye" whether it turns out to be smooth means that you doom yourself in advance to altering the entire structure.

You will definitely need a joinery clamp. In the process of making a wooden bed, an adhesive is used. Each of them is characterized by its own time of complete hardening. Since the workpieces must be securely fixed during the drying period, you cannot do without a clamping device. How to do it yourself, what modifications exist for domestic use,.

The assembly itself according to a well-drawn up drawing and with the necessary tools is done quite quickly.

• Any markings are small errors, which is quite natural if the wood is cut not by machine, but by hand. In order to achieve the maximum identity of the same type of structural elements, it is necessary to produce one of them with extreme precision, the first. Using it as a reference, all others are made according to this template.
• When surface processing wood blanks, it is advisable to at least slightly round off the sharp edges. For a more thorough leveling of the substrate, it is recommended to use a household sander. Working with this tool will give not only high results, but also great time savings. About the varieties.
• Joining structural parts only by gluing or using fasteners (screws, self-tapping screws) does not guarantee the durability of a wooden bed. The structure of the material is quite soft. In the process of using the bed, one way or another, it will be subjected to at least slight dynamic loads. Especially when it comes to the "children's" version - kids love to jump on the mattress. "Shat" of the entire structure will appear rather quickly, which means that it will have to be repaired, and even with the replacement of individual parts.

Joint "tongue-groove" with gluing these places is a more correct solution. Typical parameters of lugs and protrusions: depth (length) - 45 ± 5, width - 25 ± 5. If it is necessary to strengthen the structure, it is advisable to use a metal corner. Enough light, aluminum, "ten". These fasteners are installed from the inside and are completely invisible after the final assembly of the bed and laying the mattress.

Everything else is at the discretion of the master. For example, the front and back walls are made either the same or different in height. The legs are both square and round. If you “turn on” your imagination, then it’s easy to make such a bed from wood, which you can safely call “exclusive”. When the drawing is drawn up independently, and the assembly is carried out by hand, there is no hard standard. And the basic practical recommendations are given.

Good luck to you, home masters!