Homemade universal lathe for metal. Homemade lathe for metal with your own hands Plywood lathe chuck

Turning is a specific branch of woodworking, its difference lies in working with a rotating workpiece driven by a lathe motor. The master makes the supply of the cutting tool (cutter, milling cutter) with his own hands or by means of a mechanical drive. For reliable fixation of the workpiece and the transmission of torque to it, various devices and lathe chucks are used, the variety of which is due to a large number of methods and turning techniques. Some of them can be made by hand without special equipment.

Thrust centers

Turning centers are subdivided into drive (gear) and persistent. The first ones are installed in the headstock of the machine and directly transmit the force; for better adhesion to the tree, they have several teeth. The latter are placed in the tailstock and support the part; by design, they can be rotating and stationary. Typically, the centers have a Morse taper shank.

Planes

The faceplate is a round metal plate with holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, it is mounted on the machine shaft by means of a thread or bolts. They differ in diameter, presence or absence of teeth and additional fasteners. Used for turning plates, bowls and other similar products. Often made by hand. Working with the faceplate is thought out so that the part of the wood into which the screws are screwed is subsequently removed.

Jaw lathe chucks

The most comfortable and functional. They work both in compression and in unclenching, so they can grip the workpiece both from the outside and from the inside. They differ in the number of cams and their drive mechanism.
Unlike metalworking, two and three-jaw chuck is practically not used for wood turning. Also, options with a spiral drive and fixed cams are not popular.
The most common type of lathe chucks for woodworking are self-centering four-jaw chucks, with rack-and-pinion gear and interchangeable jaws.
They are supplied to the Russian market by the brands Axminster, Jet, Barracuda and other less well-known companies.

Making a lathe chuck for wood with your own hands

For the manufacture of cam chucks, high-precision industrial equipment is required and it is hardly possible to make them in a home workshop. However, there are simpler designs, which are not difficult to build with your own hands.

Homemade wood turning faceplate with adjustable clamps

You will need a flat sheet of steel with a thickness of at least 10 mm, a steel corner 50 × 50 mm, eight M8 × 30 bolts with nuts and washers. You should consider in advance how the device will be attached to the machine and, if necessary, make or purchase the corresponding threaded bushing. Then you can start:

Mark on the existing plate a circle of the required diameter and two axes passing through the center and intersecting at right angles.
Cut out the workpiece of the faceplate with a jigsaw along the markings and grind it carefully.
Saw through the grooves along the resulting axes, stepping back from the center a few centimeters and not reaching 2 - 3 cm to the edges. It is easier to do this by pre-drilling holes of a slightly larger diameter than the stock bolts.
Saw off four identical segments from the corner and drill one of the shelves of each with the same drill.
In the second shelf of the corners, cut the M8 thread and screw in the bolts.
Weld or braze the threaded bush for mounting onto the shaft.
Bolt the corners to the faceplate through the washers.
Fasten the resulting chuck for wood on a lathe.

To fix it with such a homemade chuck, the corners are moved to the desired position and secured by tightening the nuts, finally the part is tightened with bolts screwed into the threaded shelves.

DIY wood vacuum chuck

If your lathe headstock spindle has a through hole for knocking out a gear center, you can add a homemade vacuum chuck to your arsenal. For this you will need:

Powerful vacuum cleaner
Closed bearing, approximately equal to the outer diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose
A piece of dense rubber hose for connecting the vacuum cleaner and the bearing
Clamp
Standard chuck with center hole
A small piece of MDF or thick plywood
Textolite for adapter

A bushing is machined from the textolite, one side of which should be equal in diameter to the inner dimension of the bearing, the other - the spindle. This homemade adapter is pressed into the bearing with glue, it will be held in the machine due to the tight fit. The resulting structure is connected by a piece of hose with a vacuum cleaner and fixed with a clamp.

A disc is cut out of MDF or plywood, attached to a faceplate and turned. Better to make the surface slightly concave. On top, to ensure a tight fit, linoleum or thin rubber is glued.
The disc is drilled through the center to vent air.
Such a self-made cartridge provides a pressing force of 40-50 kg, sufficient to hold medium-sized parts during finishing.

Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make a metal lathe on their own. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be quite inexpensive, it is possible to effectively perform a large list of turning operations, giving metal blanks the required dimensions and shape. It would seem that it is much easier to purchase a simple desktop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

Homemade lathe is quite real

Using a lathe

The lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including metal, allows the manufacture of products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such a unit, it is possible to turn the outer and inner surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut an external or internal thread, and perform knurling in order to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

A serial lathe for metal is a dimensional device that is not so easy to control, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as a desktop equipment, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.

Such equipment processes parts with a circular cross-section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while rotation is given to it, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.

Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires a clear coordination of the movements of all working bodies, so that the processing is carried out with the utmost precision and the best quality of performance.

An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for a self-assembled lathe, the rather high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.

Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business, often simpler structures are built for household needs, but as a donor for good ideas, this machine fits perfectly.

Machine appearance Main units Support, tool holder and chuck
Side view Tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
Guide shafts Caliper design Motor driven
Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3

Structural units

Any, including home-made, lathe consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - a bed, two centers - a leading and a driven, two heads - front and rear, a spindle, a support, a drive unit - an electric motor.

All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main supporting element of the lathe. The headstock is a fixed structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected with an electric motor.

It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece is rotated. The tailstock, unlike the headstock, can move parallel to the direction of machining, with its help the free end of the workpiece to be processed is fixed.

A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even not too high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stoppage and, possibly, failure.

Usually, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800-1500 watts.

Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; frictional or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

Mini-lathes, which are equipped with home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly to the motor shaft.

There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, the leading and the driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for models of the frontal type: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is solved with the help of a cam chuck or faceplate.

In fact, a do-it-yourself lathe can be made with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. The high rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven center is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

When assembling a lathe for metal, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. What dimensions your mini-machine will have, and what structural elements it will consist of, will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the magnitude of the planned load on the unit.

For equipping lathes for metal, it is not recommended to choose collector motors, which differ in one characteristic feature. The number of revolutions of the shaft of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force developed by the workpiece being processed, increase sharply with decreasing load, which can lead to the fact that the part will simply fly out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and lightweight parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip a gearbox that will prevent the uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units, on which metal blanks up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 watts or more. Engines of this type are characterized by the stability of the rotational speed in the presence of a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably in them.

If you are going to make a mini-machine on your own to perform turning work on metal, then you should definitely take into account the fact that not only transverse, but also longitudinal loads will act on its chuck. Such loads, if not provided with a belt drive, can destroy the motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the motor shaft, then a number of measures can be provided to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that restricts the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be a ball installed between the motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

In the tailstock of the lathe, its driven center is located, which can be stationary or rotate freely. The simplest design has a fixed center: it is not difficult to make it on the basis of an ordinary bolt, sharpening and grinding under a taper that part of it that will be in contact with the workpiece. By screwing in or unscrewing such a bolt moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. Such a fixation is also provided by moving the tailstock itself.

In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a stationary center, the sharpened part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes, according to which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos demonstrating the process of their manufacture. It can be a mini-CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the ability to quickly and with minimal labor costs produce metal products of various configurations.

Racks of the simplest metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the machine frame using bolted connections. The frame itself, if possible, is better made of metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden bars.

The video below shows the process of self-manufacturing a caliper for a lathe.

A faceplate for a wood lathe is a part in the form of a steel disk with holes for fixing a dimensional workpiece. There are many types of faceplates that differ from each other:

material of manufacture;
disc thickness;
the size and configuration of the mounting holes;
manufacturing method;
heat treatment;
availability of additional accessories.

Turning is often encountered when working with concave workpiece planes, while the machined parts have a large section and thickness. It is problematic to fix such materials on other machines, the bending prevents the capture of the necessary part of the workpiece.

Part characteristics

Faceplate is a cast metal disc with a threaded central hole for fixing it to the spindle of a wood lathe. In the faceplate, the workpiece is fastened with metal screws. They go through the holes and screw them securely into the wood.

When realizing a woodworking lathe is completed with a faceplate with an outer diameter of 100–150 mm. In addition, specialists can purchase similar products of any size, with a different arrangement of mounting holes and working thickness.

When buying for home use, you must choose a faceplate with a maximum outer diameter. It should correspond to the base size of the workpiece bottom.

Prerequisites for using faceplates

When turning wood products, situations often arise when the turner is obliged to make jewelry processing of the edges, the accuracy of such manipulations on a standard unit is impossible. Especially if the part has large dimensions and uneven corners. The workpiece is fixed on the faceplate using hooks.

The blank used to grind the bowl must be secured in the most careful way, otherwise the part will break loose and the work will be ruined.

There is a high likelihood of serious consequences and accidents if a heavy workpiece breaks off the machine spindle. Many professional wood turners make special fasteners with their own hands.

Universal holders, special chucks can provide a reliable way of fastening wooden blanks, especially if the machine is made by hand. But the safest among all highly qualified turners is considered to be a homemade faceplate made by a master for personal use. The product is much cheaper than the purchased ones, and in terms of reliability, durability, quality it is much superior.

The dimensions of the unit itself are small, it can fit in a small workshop or garage of a private house. Forced ventilation is not required in the room where the equipment will be used. Many craftsmen install the machine between two windows to enhance natural ventilation.

Flatbed at home

To carry out the assembly of the unit at home, the master must know the work schedule, this will simplify the installation of all parts and allow the machine to operate for a long time. The technique is quite simple, but all the points require attention from a specialist and dexterity. Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade faceplate:

Take a flat steel sheet 10 mm thick.
Steel, undamaged corner 50 × 50 mm, bolts М8 × 30 in the amount of 8 pieces, flat washers and nuts for them.
Carefully consider how a homemade faceplate for a wood lathe will be mounted in the spindle of the unit. Buy or carve a threaded sleeve.
Mark the steel plate with a circle of the required diameter. Apply two axes so that they pass through the center and intersect at a 90º angle.
With a jigsaw, make a circle along the marked line, sand carefully.
Wet the through grooves along the central axes, not reaching 3 cm to the border of the part, moving away from the center by a few centimeters. It is better to pre-drill slightly larger holes than pre-drilled bolts.
Saw off four equal segments from a solid corner. Drill one shelf of each section with the same drill as the plate.
In the other two shelves of the corners, cut the M8 thread. Screw the bolts into it.
Weld the threaded bush to the plate for fastening to the shaft.
Screw the corners to the faceplate through the washers with the bolts.
The faceplate for the lathe is made by hand. It is necessary to fix it on the spindle of the unit and start work.

Attach the faceplates to the spindle

To fix the workpiece with such a washer, the corners are moved to the required position and fastened with nuts. Each part is securely clamped with bolts, they are screwed into the shelves with an angle M8 thread.

dIY video instruction on how to make a cartridge, faceplate, photo and price

All photos from the article

There are many versions of lathes with which you can machine wood blanks. They can be very tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and equipment elements.

In our case, we will use materials, the main ones of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at the construction market or in a store.

In the photo - wood lathe 3 in 1

Most of us are likely to doubt our abilities and will not even try to repeat what was suggested. At the same time, everything written below will not be particularly difficult for those who have ever worked with wood. You will not see any special methods or techniques here, everything is as simple and accessible as possible.

Materials and equipment

Before you learn how to make a wood lathe yourself, you need to prepare for work.

In this case, you will need:

plywood 18 mm thick, from which basically all parts will be made;
boards 50 mm thick for the manufacture of the headstock;
bar with a section of 50x50 mm for the bed.

Equipment should be prepared:

220V or 380V electric motor, depends on what voltage is suitable for your workshop.
Pulley - it is better to take a 3-strand pulley, with which you can adjust the optimal processing speed. It is advisable to purchase a joint pair.
V-belt.
Drill Chuck - Used as the main holder on the headstock. This is a kind of homemade chuck for a wood lathe.
Electrical box with a switch and its protection against unauthorized pressing.
Wood screws in various sizes.
Bolts, washers, butterfly nuts and T-nuts.
Plastic protective cover.
Steel plate.
Mounting rail for the movement of the tailstock along the bed - if its price does not suit you, you can replace it with an aluminum cornice.
Screw rod - regulates the reliability of fixing the workpiece in the centers of the machine.
Union nut - is a stopper on the headstock.
Metal loops - allow for optimal belt tension on the pulleys thanks to the console.
Retaining rings - used to hold bearings in their seats.

Homemade faceplate for a wood lathe is used instead of a lathe chuck

Below is a step-by-step guide to the process.

Bed making

The element has an important functional value and is a solid foundation for the rest of the moving parts of our machine.

"Bed" is made of 2 sheets of plywood, which are connected to each other with glue and self-tapping screws:

the first has a size of 18x500x1200 mm;
the second - 25x500x1200 mm.

"Bed" of the future wood lathe

Measure two 1200 mm lengths on the bar and saw them off.
Place on the “bed” with 50 mm spacing.
In each bar in the middle, make grooves for rails with a length of 900 mm for installing the headstock and install them.

Tip: instead of the standard T-shaped rails, you can use used aluminum curtain rods, they work just as well.

Machine engine

In this step, everything will depend on what kind of equipment you can buy or find in your home. We'll use a grinder motor, but it's better if you can get a motor with a low speed of 1750 rpm.

Therefore, in our case, we will have to reduce the declared speed of 3000 rpm using sets of pulleys, for which it is better to use two sets - for the motor and the headstock of the machine.

A set of pulleys of different diameters allows you to adjust the rotation speed of the wooden workpiece

It is enough to purchase 3-step pulleys, which will help to set the speed from 700 rpm to more than 4000 rpm on the workpiece. Here's some sample data:

The motor is fastened on a plywood platform, which hangs freely, which creates the necessary belt tension

The engine platform will be plywood, which is hinged to the main frame. Please note that each of them should be located 60 mm from the edge for secure attachment.

Self-made wood lathes with their own hands usually use a belt drive, while you need to move the belts on the pulleys yourself

For easy access to starting and stopping equipment, install an on / off button on the front of the lathe. The connection is not difficult - you have to insert it into the circuit between the motor and the 220/380 V network.

Protect the button with the top cover against unauthorized equipment startup

Headstock

The element transmits rotation to the workpiece from the engine, reliably holds the parts of the equipment, so it must be powerful enough. Basically, the dimensions of the headstock depend on the diameter of the pulley. It can be made from hardwood or using a plywood sandwich that will be equally reliable.

The headstock should be as reliable as possible

In our version, 2 T-shaped blanks from solid wood 150 mm thick and 165 mm high were used. We connected them together with a third workpiece of the “thorn-groove” type. The depth of the structure should correspond to the normal rotation of the largest diameter pulley.

Tip: you can also make 3 parts of the headstock from plywood.

All elements of the headstock must be securely screwed

Its mechanism consists of two mandrels with bearings and retaining rings. Each of them is screwed to the headstock with screws on both sides.

Tailstock

For manufacturing, take a ready-made sandwich made of glued plywood sheets.

T-shaped blanks have the following overall dimensions:

width - 150 mm;
height - 215 mm.

Tailstock beveled corners don't matter, just 25˚

A hole should be made in the center in the upper part, which should coincide in level with the headstock chuck. To securely fix the workpiece in the centers, a 180 mm long screw rod is used.

The tailstock is attached to the bed with butterfly nuts

A lock nut is also used internally between the tailstock parts to limit the extension of the rod.

The lock nut allows you to adjust the extension of the screw rod

Inside, between the parts of the tailstock, additional wood elements must be inserted, which will increase its reliability. To move the screw rod from the outside, we recommend making a flywheel from interconnected pieces of plywood.

A plywood handwheel will make it easier to adjust the clamping of the workpiece on the machine

Guard for belt and grindstone

We hope you haven't forgotten how important safety precautions are when working with rotating elements. In our case, we should install a protective cover on the belt and the second part of the grinding mill, so that neither one nor the other, in the event of a break or breakage, could harm us.

Make a protective cover for the drive belt and grindstone

In the first case, you can purchase it in a store or make a plastic casing yourself, fixing it on both sides with two bolts and nuts. Its dimensions, for example, can be as follows - 450x170x270 mm. The main thing is that he does not interfere, but only protects the worker.

In the second case, you can use an old plastic bucket of a suitable diameter, which must be fixed over the emery wheel. It will spin constantly, so this protection will never be superfluous.

Support

To make it, take 18 mm plywood:

Make the base of the element from a wooden block measuring 100 x 300 mm. Then make a groove in it for free movement of bolts with "butterfly" nuts, which can securely hold the caliper in the desired position.

Finished caliper on the bed

The second part is designed for installation on the base of the support and is rotary. The bar has rounded corners and two holes for bottom and top fastening.

Fastening the caliper to the bed

The third part holds the swing arm.
The fourth element is the main block for holding the support arm. Its sides should be cut at an angle of 45˚ for greater reliability. Can be replaced with metal.

The caliper consists of 6 elements

The most important element is the support arm, which must be glued and screwed to the bottom base as securely as possible. Its size is 100 by 200 mm, the bending of the sides is completed at a distance of 30 mm to its top, which is beveled at an angle of 30˚.
A metal plate installed with 4 self-tapping screws on the top will reduce wear on the element.

With the support of the slide, you can machine the workpiece

Tip: Before using the caliper, check that the tool can slide easily on the plate.

Output

Today you learned how to make a wood lathe that used wood as the main material - plywood, beams and boards - as much as possible. It is quite possible to make this structure at home on your own, for which you will need to purchase or use an electric motor with transmission pulleys.

During work, you must not forget about the safety rules and protective glasses. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.

rubankom.com

Chucks for a lathe for wood, DIY manufacturing

Four-jaw lathe chuck for woodworking machines

Thrust centers

Planes

Faceplate for 4-jaw chuck

Jaw lathe chucks

Jaw lathe chuck 4-jaw lathe chuck Ø150 mm 4-jaw lathe chuck Ø100 mm

Varieties of cams

In terms of shape and purpose, replaceable jaws for wood turning chucks are divided into several types with special markings:

A, G, M - for compression, differ in size and depth of capture;
D and F - act on unclenching;
C and H are universal. Different shapes of sponges;
for working with soft, compression-sensitive wood, rubber-mounted cams are used.

Additional accessories

When turning thin-walled products or working with fragile wood, metal fastening rings are used. Having the skill of handling metal, you can make them yourself.
Also, type C cams can be paired with screw inserts that screw into a pre-drilled hole in the part.
Cartridges for specific woodworking tasks:

cam with independent adjustment - for eccentric turning;
collet - clamps round workpieces when tightening the tapered collet petals with a clamping nut. Has a small capture range;
cylindrical - a tube with three or more threaded clamps around the circumference;
vise - for gripping rectangular workpieces. Parallel jaws are compressed by a screw;
vacuum - for fine finishing. Works due to the difference in air pressure generated by the pump;
drilling - for fixing drills. Attached to the tailstock quill.

Set of driving cartridges MK2

Making a lathe chuck for wood with your own hands

Homemade wood turning faceplate with adjustable clamps

Mark on the existing plate a circle of the required diameter and two axes passing through the center and intersecting at right angles.
Cut out the workpiece of the faceplate with a jigsaw along the markings and grind it carefully.
Saw through the grooves along the resulting axes, stepping back from the center a few centimeters and not reaching 2 - 3 cm to the edges. It is easier to do this by pre-drilling holes of a slightly larger diameter than the stock bolts.
Saw off four identical segments from the corner and drill one of the shelves of each with the same drill.
In the second shelf of the corners, cut the M8 thread and screw in the bolts.
Weld or braze the threaded bush for mounting onto the shaft.
Bolt the corners to the faceplate through the washers.
Fasten the resulting chuck for wood on a lathe.

To fix it with such a homemade chuck, the corners are moved to the desired position and secured by tightening the nuts, finally the part is tightened with bolts screwed into the threaded shelves.

DIY wood vacuum chuck

If your lathe headstock spindle has a through hole for knocking out a gear center, you can add a homemade vacuum chuck to your arsenal. For this you will need:

Powerful vacuum cleaner
Closed bearing, approximately equal to the outer diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose
A piece of dense rubber hose for connecting the vacuum cleaner and the bearing
Clamp
Standard chuck with center hole
A small piece of MDF or thick plywood
Textolite for adapter

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.

Now you can buy a lathe for wood and metal for every taste (and at any cost). Of course, many of the most modern and additional functions (which are often not needed) are added to the machine.

I do not argue a lathe is a very necessary and useful thing for a workshop, but in 90% of cases it is not worth the money spent on it.

We want to help you save your finances. Why buy a model with many unnecessary features if you can make a standard simple model yourself?

Wood lathe materials

The structure itself consists of the following parts (see figure)

Bed - is the basis for the machine, usually made of metal and consists of several connected beams.
Transverse U-shaped beam.
Electric motor - serves as a power source for the correct movement around its axis (single-phase motors with a power of 200-400 watts are suitable).
Scroll chuck.
Support for the tailstock.
An element that turns.
Workpiece or tool stop.
Support for a handyman.
Guide beams.
Angle, stand or tailstock support.
Clip.
Metal plate under the stop.
Detail of the cross rail.
Screws for fastening.
Reference axis.

Wood lathe step by step instructions

First of all, you don't have to buy a new motor, but take a used one, it will cost you much less.

The elements are fixed on the base (No. 1 in Fig.) 2 U-shaped beams are welded to two transverse beams (No. 2 in Fig.).

The guides from above are additionally fixed with two corners (No. 10 in the figure), which are fixed to the main surface.

Attach the engine (# 3 in the figure) to the side and secure the headstock.

As the base of the tailstock, it is worth using a rotating center (buy a part from the purchased version), fix it to the support (No. 5 in the figure) and weld it on the site (No. 12 in the figure)

The stop (No. 5) is made from a corner and is attached to the support (No. 8), which itself is fixed on the holder. The stop and the clip are strung onto the support axis (no. 15) and then welded to the guide beams.

The same stop (No. 5) and the rotating element (No. 6) are fixed on metal plates (No. 12) that contain special moving clips (No. 11).

Please note that the stop and tailstock are movable elements that should move along the guides (no. 9) without any problems.

So that the moving elements are well attached to the clips, preliminary holes are made in the clips (no. 14) and the slightest inaccuracy reduces the quality of the entire apparatus.

The welding itself can lead to deformation of the material - first, all materials are held together by spot welding, and then they carry out the full work.

Wood lathe video

Lathe for metal materials

To make such a tool, you will need:

Metal sheet;
P - shaped metal beams;
Steel strips;
Steel corners;
Electrical engine;
Transmission mechanism;
Several nuts and bolts for fastening;
Bulgarian;

Separately, it should be said about the engine, it does not have to be new, you can limit yourself to the old or used one, its power should be 2 kW with the number of revolutions per minute within 2000. Although it depends more on the level of your work on this machine.

The more massive the workpieces - the more powerful the engine must be, if you want to make a compact machine with low power - even a motor from a washing machine or an electric drill will do.

As for the transmission mechanism, you can find it via the Internet or buy an old gearbox from a friend and remove the clutch from the box. Thus, you get a mechanism that creates several speeds for your machine. And if you install an additional pulley, you can improve the number of revolutions.

Metal lathe step by step instructions

The installation should start with the use of steel corners and a U-shaped beam, of which (1 corner and 1 beam) you need to weld the frame for the base.

To do this, you need to wedge the base. The guides are assembled from square pipes and steel strips.

In addition, their metal sheet makes a box for the chuck, after installation, bearings with adjustment are placed in it.

The tailstock must be welded from a corner and a thick plate, which will be supported by guides.

The headstock should easily, freely move along the guides. Weld the nuts to the top of the headstock (to fix the supporting center).

The sharpened cone should be mounted in the beam, while observing the maximum accuracy. Such a cone can be made from any bolt that suits your size.

After that, the entire structure is assembled, the spindle is checked for ease of rotation, and the front and rear centers are adjusted to create a flat axis.

Now you know that building a machine for wood or metal is quite realistic and requires little knowledge and effort from you, and at the same time it will cost you much cheaper (and in the event of a breakdown, you can repair it yourself).

In general, the manufacture of such a machine will help you even if you do not often do such work, only such mechanisms are very cumbersome and you need a place to store them (or you can make "pocket" models).

Metal lathe video

Lathes, even in our time, play a huge role in the production of certain parts. All components and all equipment on any machines change over time, as they are subject to wear.

All these items of equipment must be of high quality and durable, since the quality of the finished product depends entirely on the quality of the installed parts. So is the chuck of a lathe. It is without this element that the machine becomes useless. Below we will analyze everything related to this element of the lathe. Let's start by finding out what this part is.

The chuck is one of the main elements of turning equipment. It is due to it that the fastening (installation) of the future workpiece is made. It is mounted on a headstock with a gearbox. The chuck mechanism consists of a cam device.

It is the cams, under the influence of mechanical force, that tightly fix various workpieces with different diameters and sizes. Due to its massiveness and tight fastening on the machine, the chuck carries out a neat movement of the workpiece and does not allow the workpiece to move during operation, and also does not allow deformation. The chuck also rotates the workpiece, which makes it easy to machine.

Purpose

It is this part of the machine that has the most important mission in any workpiece machining. Due to the cam mechanism, which is located inside the chuck itself, the workpiece is clamped and centered. This happens due to the simultaneous narrowing of the cams around the plane of the workpiece. After clamping the workpiece, the workpiece is clamped with a quill located on the tailstock. When these actions are done, the machine starts up and the part rotates, which can be machined.

Tip: You need to know that before starting the equipment, after replacing the lathe chuck, you should set low rotation speeds. This is done in order to check the values \u200b\u200bof the end and radial runout of the cam chuck operating at idle speed.

Variety

Nowadays, turning chucks are distinguished by the presence of fasteners (cams). There are only three of these types:

Two cam

Such cartridges are capable of fixing complex, asymmetrical and shaped parts. In such chucks, it is possible to fix non-machined surfaces. They are used in small production, as well as in serial production.

Three cam

This type of equipment is the most common and is used in all works. Allows to machine round and hexagonal parts. This type of chuck uses three different jaws. Regardless of this, the workpiece is centered together with the clamping of all three jaws.

Four cam

This type is used for processing rectangular blanks. Here, for each cam, there is a separate mechanical unit that makes all the cams independent.

But the varieties of cartridges do not end with three types. They are also divided according to the workpiece fixation mechanism:

Collet

They consist of a slotted bushing in which petals are located (various modifications include from 3 to 6 petals). These petals act as cams.

Wedge

This type of tooling is used mainly on numerically controlled machines. Mount workpieces are made using 3 cams, which are located on a shallow spindle.

Lever

In these chucks there are sliders, with the help of which the cams are moved by the force of the lever. This type is used for small series production, as well as for processing a single piece.

Membrane view

In this case, a pneumatic drive is used, with the help of which the membrane is compressed. This type is used only for fine processing, to remove a thin layer of chips.

Drilling

These chucks are similar in principle to hand drill chucks. When tightening the nut with a special wrench, the cams are smoothly squeezed out. Due to this action, the part or tool is clamped.

Shrink fit chuck

This type of device is very inconvenient to use. This is due to the fact that when fastening the workpiece, the cartridge itself is thermally heated, the same actions are performed when removing the tool.

Hydropathron

The principle of operation is the same as in the shrink fit chuck. Clamping of the part is carried out due to the liquid, which compresses the cams under pressure. Due to the liquid content in the cartridge, additional damping of vibrations that occur during operation is performed.

Tip: Before choosing a lathe chuck on wood or for metal, it is necessary to decide on the type of processing, material and molding of parts. It should also be remembered that it will not be superfluous to acquire additional devices for the cartridge.

Design

Consider the structural elements that make up the lathe chuck itself:

Key

It is used to perform actions to clamp the part.

Spring

Allows, due to the key, to perform certain actions to clamp the part and vice versa.

Sleeve

Produces free key passage.

Stopper

Prevents the part from loosening during machine operation.

Gear

Transmits rotary motion to the spiral disc.

Flange

The part to which the entire structure is fixed.

Spiral disc

Due to the rotational movement of the gear, this disc drives the cams.

Reverse cam

It is used to clamp the workpiece from the inside.

Cam straight

It is used to clamp the workpiece from the outside.

Housing

An element of the part on which the cam mechanism is located.

Overhead cams

For clamping long and short parts with large diameters.

Each of the parts of the entire mechanism performs a specific function and is not superfluous.

Assembly according to drawings

The assembly of the chuck for turning equipment is made according to diagrams that can be downloaded from the Internet and printed on a printer. As a rule, factory cartridges cost a lot of money and therefore many have learned do such details homemade... They have a simple design, but quite clear. Before starting the assembly of this device, you must fully understand the entire mechanism of the chuck and the operation of the cam mechanism. If it is not possible to make such elements with your own hands, then you can order them from any turner. It will be inexpensive.

The assembly begins with a flange on which all the necessary holes for fastening are located. After him, all the parts of the mechanism are gradually installed, which are completed by covering with a body and bolting everything patron

Installation

Installation is carried out as follows and in strict sequence:

Installing the mandrel

The first step is to install this part to ensure full dressing of the cartridge.

Installing the chuck itself on the spindle

With the help of a frame, it is put on the spindle and bolted.

Anchoring

Fastened cartridge bolted onto the spindle. In this case, a simple open-end wrench will be a good helper.

Securing the workpiece

After installing the chuck, a part, workpiece or tool is fixed into it.

Release the cartridge

After all work, the mandrel is removed.

Tip: After replacing the chuck, it is necessary to check the operation of the machine. End runout and seat taper should not exceed three microns.

It's important to know! This tool must be disassembled frequently to lubricate and clean the cam gear! If the cartridge is in a removable state, then it must be prepared for storage. To do this, the cams are brought to the center, this ensures the preservation of centering, and the hole in the center must be plugged with a clean rag or other material. This will prevent dust from entering the walls of the hole.

Video reviews

Video review of installation on a machine:

Video review, disassembly, cleaning, polishing:

Video review of a wood lathe chuck:

Video review of a homemade wood lathe chuck (cheap option):

Homemade universal lathe for metal. Homemade lathe for metal with your own hands Plywood lathe chuck

Thrust centers

Planes

Jaw lathe chucks

Making a lathe chuck for wood with your own hands

Homemade wood turning faceplate with adjustable clamps

DIY wood vacuum chuck

Using a lathe

An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

Structural units

Part characteristics

Prerequisites for using faceplates

Flatbed at home

Related video: How to make a faceplate for a TV-4 lathe

dIY video instruction on how to make a cartridge, faceplate, photo and price

Materials and equipment

Bed making

Machine engine

Headstock

Tailstock

Guard for belt and grindstone

Support

Output

Chucks for a lathe for wood, DIY manufacturing

Thrust centers

Planes

Jaw lathe chucks

Varieties of cams

Additional accessories

Making a lathe chuck for wood with your own hands

Homemade wood turning faceplate with adjustable clamps

DIY wood vacuum chuck

Wood lathe materials

Wood lathe step by step instructions

Wood lathe video

Lathe for metal materials

Metal lathe step by step instructions

Metal lathe video

Purpose

Variety

Two cam

Three cam

Four cam

Collet

Wedge

Lever

Membrane view

Drilling

Shrink fit chuck

Hydropathron

Design

Key

Spring

Sleeve

Stopper

Gear

Flange

Spiral disc

Reverse cam

Cam straight

Housing

Overhead cams

Assembly according to drawings

Installation

Installing the mandrel

Installing the chuck itself on the spindle

Anchoring

Securing the workpiece

Release the cartridge

Video reviews