The procedure for installing interior doors with your own hands. We install interior doors ourselves: step by step instructions How to install interior doors

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors

Today, do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is done in most cases. Manufacturers strive to simplify the installation of their products as much as possible, so almost any person can cope with this. Below we will consider this procedure in detail.

We study the varieties and their features

Before you install the interior door yourself, you will need to select the appropriate model. They are divided into the following categories according to the opening method:

Foldable. Such models consist of several doors at once, which move along the guide. They are divided into two subgroups: books (consist of 2 sections and are durable) and accordions (an alternative to screens).
Coupe (sliding). They have the largest number of modifications: 1 and 2 sash, opening inward or along the wall, left and right, etc. The main advantage of such structures is space saving. When installed correctly, they also provide a high level of sound insulation.
Swing. The latter variety is the most popular. Installation of doors of this type is much easier, and people without carpentry skills can cope with it (which cannot be said about other categories). Moreover, their cost is much lower. The main disadvantage of such structures is that they take up a lot of usable space.

The installation of the first two varieties is carried out according to different methods, which have significant differences. In this case, the master will require the skills of a carpenter, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a positive result. Therefore, our step-by-step instructions will consider the installation of swing doors.

A few words about the choice of canvas and calculations

Specifications must be selected based on the conditions of the room. First, we determine the size of the canvas, so we measure the opening. Do not forget about the need to leave a gap. Between the posts and the original surface 10-12 mm, between the blade and the timber 3-5 mm. This is to avoid jamming the door. It can appear due to the swelling of the canvas (from temperature fluctuations and high humidity). Standard width ranges from 60-100 cm, height 180-220 cm.

Remember: the finished canvas will be impossible to correct, and expanding (narrowing) the opening is a labor-intensive task. Therefore, select the dimensions as accurately as possible - the complexity of installation will depend on this.

The technical clearances (12-15mm), the width of the box are subtracted from the size of the opening and multiplied by 2. The resulting number is subtracted from the width of the opening. Calculation example:

We have an opening 78.5 cm wide.

78,5 - (1,2 + 2,5 + 0,3) *2 = 70,5.

This means that a model with a width of 70 cm is suitable for us.

The standard door length is 200 cm, so you have to adjust the opening for it. To calculate the required height, add the thickness of the box, the size of the technical gap and 1 cm (the distance between the canvas and the floor) to two meters (or another figure, if we are dealing with a non-standard model). If a threshold is supposed to be set, then we add its thickness as well.

In addition to dimensions, it is necessary to take into account the features of the material from which the canvas is made. This is not so important, but this aspect should not be ignored. Remember a few simple guidelines:

In rooms with high humidity, it is not recommended to use models made of materials that are not resistant to moisture (chipboard, pressed sawdust, etc.). They will swell in a few years and lose their original appearance. In such cases, it is recommended to install laminated doors.

Advice: if it becomes necessary to install such a variety, leave the technological gap 2 times larger, because such a canvas will swell much faster and more strongly.

If there are small children or large animals in the house, it is better to refuse models with glass inserts.

Another important point is that for newly built wooden houses, when installing the box, it is recommended not to screw in the screws completely. This will allow it to survive shrinkage with ease.

Where to start - preparatory manipulations

First, you will need to perform several time-consuming and important operations.

What we need - we study the toolkit

Tools for installing interior doors are not expensive and complicated. To complete all the manipulations, you will need the following:

A hacksaw with a miter box (it must be of a suitable size - so that the box fits completely into its grooves, otherwise it will be very inconvenient to cut). You can use a circular saw.
Building level. Ideally laser - it grants maximum accuracy. However, for a one-time job, it makes no sense to acquire it - it is quite expensive.
Drill with cutter.
Pencil (or marker), tape measure.
A hammer.
Screwdriver or furniture screwdriver.
Polyurethane foam with a gun.
Fastening materials: finishing nails (usually they are included in the kit), self-tapping screws, dowels, screws (80 × 5), wedges.
Two spirit levels (180 and 50 cm).

First procedure - dismantling

This is the most difficult and most importantly dirty stage of the work. Self-installation of interior doors begins with the dismantling of old ones. Let's consider everything in stages:

In the course of operations, an incredible amount of dirt and dust will appear. Therefore, immediately remove all furniture, carpets and other items from the room. What can not be moved, cover with something. Don't forget about PPE (glasses, gloves, respirator).
Remove the old door from the hinges. To do this, unscrew the screws that hold them. If the hinges are of the "dad-mom" type (that is, when one part is inserted into the other), then simply open the door and pull it up at a right angle. If the hinges were not lubricated, it will take a lot of effort, so we do the work with a partner.

Tip: if you no longer plan to use the old canvas, you can simply tear it off if you have enough force. This is the most radical and fastest way.

Next, you need to dismantle the box. The first step is to remove the mortar that holds the frame.
Then cuts are made in the tops of both posts. This will facilitate the extraction process: we insert a pry bar into the holes made and just pull it strongly in different directions.
As a result, they loosen and can be easily removed from the opening.

Preparing the original surface

The next step is to bring the opening into proper form. The work is done in the following sequence:

We dismantle the insulation (if any). We do this with gloves, because this group of materials irritates the skin.
We remove construction waste and then conduct a thorough audit.
If there are materials that peel off easily, remove them. We also remove all fasteners (hinges, nails, etc.).
As a result, we should have bare concrete (brick, timber - depending on what the walls are made of).

After such procedures, the evenness and integrity of the surface is likely to be violated. Therefore, you will need to align it. There are several ways, but the simplest is plastering.

If, after cleaning manipulations, the width of the opening has increased (for example, the surface layer of the plaster is opal), then the installation of extras will help. These are wooden (in most cases) strips with a width of 6-30 mm. They are installed when it is necessary to "increase" the size of the opening. A more durable option is cement mortar.

The main scope of work

The order of installation of interior doors must be strictly observed, therefore all further manipulations are presented in the correct sequence.

Putting the box together correctly

Once again, making sure that the original surface is even, we proceed to collecting the box. It is sold in bars of various lengths. It is necessary to make a U-shaped structure of them (if it is supposed to install a threshold, then a rectangular one). The second option is used mainly for toilets and bathrooms.

If you ordered a box with a door, then most likely it will be ready - you only need to assemble it (using long screws or nails). If purchased separately, it will have to be adjusted to fit. This is the most difficult process that will require maximum accuracy, because in the event of the slightest inaccuracies, the door will be tilted, which will affect its performance.

Consider the assembly of a U-shaped structure:

We lay two vertical racks on the floor, it is necessary that it is perfectly flat.
We mark on them the height of the opening from the inside.
From these points down we make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees, the miter box will help you with this.
On the third post (horizontal) mark the width of the opening on the inside. From these points we make a cut 45 degrees in different directions. Do not confuse the direction, these three elements should come together in a single structure, so try on each new cut.
Then we mark the places for the hinges and the lock. This can be done later.
We collect the resulting structure and connect it with large self-tapping screws. For each joint we use at least 3 fasteners.

Attention! Watch the vertical position of the self-tapping screw while tightening, for at the slightest deviation it will pierce the rack.

For a rectangular structure, the assembly will be identical, only with the addition of a second horizontal post.

How to set the loops correctly

The awnings will determine how comfortable opening and closing is, so perfect precision is required. Most believe that two hinges are sufficient for normal operation. We recommend using three (one is placed exactly in the middle). In this case, even with prolonged use, you will avoid distortions. So, you need to do the following:

We apply loops to the applied markings and draw a circle around them with a pencil (marker).
Along the lines drawn, we make two grooves (on the door and canopy) - to the depth of the canopy. A chisel will help us with this. The hinge should be flush with the base surface.
Having made the fit, we screw the canopies onto self-tapping screws of medium length (at least 3.5 cm), first to the canvas, and then to the racks.
If necessary, we make adjustments: we put the structure on the floor and begin to open (close) - if the movement is not smooth, we tighten the screws.

We insert the box into the opening

The next step is to install the door frame. We do everything in the following sequence:

If the hinges are of the "dad-mom" type, then take out the door - this will facilitate the work. Otherwise, we leave it as it is.
We level all three racks with a level. We achieve perfect verticality!
We expand the upper crossbar with wooden wedges.
We level again and, if necessary, use pads.
We drill through the side racks with a drill.
Insert the dowels into the holes in the wall.
We fix the box using long screws.
We carry out the final revision and alignment.

Final chords - handles, platbands

After making sure of perfect evenness, we make the final manipulations. First, the handle is installed on the door. To do this, a through hole of the corresponding diameter is drilled in the canvas (if you purchased a complete set, then you do not have to do this). Then the two parts of the handle are connected. In most cases, this is not difficult.

At the end, platbands are exposed - decorative elements that hide all irregularities and form the integrity of the structure. They are glued around the entire perimeter on special liquid nails. Joints are also made using a miter box.

Any business in which you are poorly versed requires special knowledge, as well as accuracy, attentiveness and concentration. This also applies to the installation of interior doors. Of course, you can always turn to professionals. However, having studied a number of technological nuances, you can completely cope with this task on your own.

The procedure for installing interior doors with your own hands

Instructions for installing interior doors include several points:

unpacking the purchased set of door frame and door leaf;
assembly of the box;
installation of a door frame;
installation of platbands;
door assembly.

Now let's look at each step in order.

Subtleties of unpacking goods

At first glance, the simplest thing is how unpacking a purchased product has its own characteristics. This should be done very carefully. Indeed, when opening the package with a knife, there is a high probability of causing a visible effect on the door leaf, which is later difficult to eliminate. First of all, experts recommend unpacking only the door frame. A container with a door leaf must be opened immediately before use.

Since it is possible to spoil the "presentation", in particular it concerns the laminated or varnish coating.

Assembling the box

The door frame assembly is the most difficult and painstaking process. Indeed, the most innocent errors can entail, at best, difficulties in operation, at worst - to a complete replacement of the material.

To assemble the box you need:

The owners who want to find out the procedure for installing interior doors with their own hands can make a base without a threshold, in the form of the letter "P".

In this case, you will need:

timber, in other words, a feigned stand;
loop bar;
lintel.

If you want to create a door with a threshold, you should add a lower bar-strip of the corresponding thickness to the listed list. Ultimately, the assembled box will look like a rectangle.

Initially, you should take the hinge bar and attach it to the door leaf, if necessary, adjust it to the length of the door. In this case, a small gap should be left above and below, a couple of millimeters. We perform the same manipulation with a feigned stance. This is done in order to free the future door.

Next, we apply the lintel to the hinge bar attached to the door leaf. We make the appropriate marks on it, which then, if necessary, we transfer to the lower bar-bar. After that, you need to cut down the protruding strips, which play the role of door latches.

We make an incision with a saw until the end of the ledge of the ceiling strip, which is subsequently knocked off with a hammer and chisel. Do the same with the lower bar.

The performed algorithm of actions allows you to fasten all the beams into a single structure - a door frame using self-tapping screws. In this case, you should first drill holes for the self-tapping screws with a thin drill in order to preserve the integrity of the box.

If you buy a beam yourself, its thickness should fluctuate within the thickness of the door leaf.

Door frame installation

Installation of a door frame often starts with dismantling the old one. After that, you should prepare the surface for the installation of your folded structure. To create a rigid base, wooden narrow strips are nailed along the edges of its corners.

The installation of the door frame has been carried out recently by blowing polyurethane foam. But before that, the box must be secured with anchor bolts. This manipulation will extend the service life of the door, as well as ensure its reliability. However, you should take care of some of the nuances of using foam.

First of all, you need to glue the work surface with molar tape to prevent material from getting on it. It is also necessary to foresee the fact that the foam increases its volume by 50% when solidifying. If you do not correctly calculate the amount of this material, you may encounter deformation of the door frame. After the foam has solidified, its excess is removed and all the necessary fittings are mounted.

You can fix the structure of the box with a special glue, which builders call liquid nails. They make it possible to avoid holes from drilling (as it would be in the case of using dowels). At the same time, the aesthetic appearance of the door will be preserved. Besides, using special glue is much easier.

Polyurethane foam is poisonous, so it is necessary to work with it with gloves.

Fittings installation

Before you attach the door leaf to its frame, you need to cut a lock into it, install handles and hinges.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe lock is determined using a special measuring tool. Then we remove the layer of wood based on the shape of the shutter equipment. In this case, the front part of the lock should be flush with the surface of the door leaf. We remove the wood with a milling saw.

The hole for the working part of the lock should be deeper. Therefore, a drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter is suitable for its formation.

A core is laid in the installed lock, after which handles are attached to it. Finally, we clamp all the appropriate fasteners and clamps. In most cases, their role is played by screws, bolts, which are fixed with a hexagon.

After the performed algorithm, you should proceed with the installation of loops. Similarly with the installation of the castle, first of all, the marking of their location is done. Then hinges are attached at the ends. With a milling saw, as in the previous case, a layer of wood is removed to fasten the hinges at the same level with the door leaf.

Pre-final stage

After all operations on the door leaf are completed, we return to the box. On it, we also mark the areas of location and fastening of the loops. The milling saw in this case also helps.

The next step is to mark the area of \u200b\u200bthe door frame, where the core of the door lock will enter. To do this, use a chisel, which allows you to make a hole of the required depth. And in the end we attach the plug.

Adjustment, alignment, completion

Hang the door leaf on one screw in the hinge and watch it close. If the constipation and the strapping rub against the jamb, deepen both or one of the grooves. Do not secure the door with all the screws until it closes and opens satisfactorily. After making sure of the reliability of the work done, feel free to fasten the canvas.

In the end, I would like to draw attention to the fact that the procedure for installing your own interior doors with your own hands should include the processing of drilled, sawn and cut wood with plain paint. Thus, you will protect the surface of the door and preserve its "presentation".

How to install an interior door

We install interior doors with our own hands

We begin to install the interior door

How to install an interior door correctly

How to install an interior door video

If you have a need installation of interior doors, then do not rush to call an expensive master, because if you wish, this can be done do it yourself. There is little understanding in the construction business, you can use our advice and independently install the interior a door .

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We install interior doors with our own hands

The process of installing interior doors is quite complicated, so the positive result depends on clear implementation every action.

If you decide to do such work on your own, then please be patient. You should carefully study all the instructions and tips for installing interior doors with your own hands, and then scrupulously perform all actions.

Observing all the rules that are given below, you and your loved ones will be satisfied with the new interior doors.

We install the interior door ourselves. Training

First you need align the walls, cover them with putty and plaster. After that, the wall in which the door will stand must be well dried, otherwise there is a risk of displacement of the door frame.

The floor must also be prepared for flooring. When installing an interior door consider the final height of the future flooring, to correctly calculate the height of the door frame. If you are replacing an existing door, then the last conditions are not so important.

The next step will be selection and purchase of interior doors... which we will talk about in the next article.

You can purchase a box and doors separately, or as an assembly. The door frame can be made yourself. it U-shaped design, consisting of a box bar. In essence, these are two racks, as well as a horizontal rail called headroom.

Note! The best option for a door frame is without a horizontal bar at the bottom (sill). If you do not hide this block, then it will only interfere with walking.

When choosing a bar, make sure that there are no irregularities and black (dead) knots on it.

Important! The thickness of the door frame must be equal to the thickness of the door, otherwise the interior door cannot be installed.

To see the quality result of our work, you need professional tool. However, this is expensive. At the same time, if you perform work with simple tools, then there is a risk of not maintaining the required accuracy.

Hacksaw
Level meter
Miter box
Distance measuring tape
Screwdriwer set
A hammer
A set of chisels.

Electric milling cutter
Puncher
Miter saw
Screwdriver
Circular.

We begin to install the interior door

First you need to decide how the interior door will open... This largely depends on the layout of the house.

For example, in the bathroom, it is recommended to make doors that open outward, because there is little space. And if the door is a transition from a small corridor to a large room, then you can install doors that will open into the room.

Let's move on to installation of the door frame. This is the most crucial moment and the basis for all work on the installation of interior doors, since the entire success of the work depends on the installation of racks.

1. With a miter saw, we saw off the upper parts of the racks at an angle of 45 °. If you do not have a miter saw, then this operation can be done using a small hacksaw and a miter box.

2. We measure the racks. It is better to measure and mark the required length of the two posts from the inside.

3. Now let's prepare the lintel. Similarly, we measure it from the inside.

4. With a miter saw or a small hacksaw, we saw off the lintel on both sides at an angle of 45 °.

How to install an interior door correctly
Installation of door hinges

Installation of door hinges is also a responsible event. Dimensions must be accurate regarding the door leaf and door frame. It is also necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions of the loop recesses.

1. On the stand from the inside, you need to retreat 20 cm.A loop will be fixed at this place.

2. The hinge installation distance will be equal to 0.4 cm (distance from the door leaf to the rack) + directly the recess in which the hinge will be located.

3. We attach the loop in the right place and outline it with a pencil.

4. It is better to make the hinge pad using a router, and if there is none, then this work is done with chisels.

5. Using the same principle, we make a seat for the lower hinge, which should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the lower edge of the door leaf.

6. We make grooves for the hinges both on the rack and on the door.

Door frame installation
Door frame installation should proceed as follows:

1. We fasten the posts perpendicularly to the lintel using self-tapping screws. But first you need to make a hole with a drill with a smaller diameter than the diameter of the screws.

Then we screw the screws into the holes obtained, otherwise the structure in the screw-in points may burst. It will be enough to screw in only 4 self-tapping screws, 2 per side. The entire procedure must be done on a soft substrate (for example, on cardboard), so as not to scratch the door leaf.

2. We place the resulting box in the wall opening, while fixing it with spacers and wedges.

Do not forget! There must be a 2-3 cm gap between the box and the wall for polyurethane foam.

3. Align the door frame horizontally and vertically using a level.

4. Finally, we fix the entire box with self-tapping screws, but before that we drill holes in the box and in the wall.

Before drilling the wall, we apply marks with a drill through our door frame. If the opening is made of bricks, then you should hit the solid brick with a self-tapping screw, and not in the cracks between the bricks, otherwise the dowels will not hold well.

5. After the holes are ready, of which you can make 6-8 per side, you can install the dowels.

6. Now we screw the screws (it is better to use wood screws) into the dowels through the door frame. It will be more convenient to screw in the self-tapping screws with an electric drill with an appropriate attachment or a screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws to the limit, as the box may bend. When screwing in, periodically check the level of the position of the structure.

7. Install loops.

Be careful! The hinges must be installed so that the door leaf can be hooked onto the hinges from above.

8. We put the doors, hanging it on the hinges, and check if the door closes and opens correctly. The door should not open or close on its own - this will indicate that the interior door is installed incorrectly. If there are any defects, we eliminate them.

9. Now you need to close the door and insert small spacers of appropriate sizes between the door and the racks (you can use cardboard) so that in the future the foam does not deform the door frame.

10. Finally, we apply foam between the wall and the box. Start filling the vertical seam from the bottom. Do not overdo it, fill in about a third of the total volume of the seams, as the foam grows in size as it dries.

In addition, excessive application of foam leads to its overspending. Also, excess foam can get on the front of the door. The foam should dry for about a day at a temperature of 20 ° C.

11. After the foam has dried, you can remove all spacers.

Installation of platbands

After the door frame is installed, there is still install platbands.

1. To do this, we cut the required length at an angle of 45 °.

Advice! So that when cutting the platband there are no chips left, and the groove is "clean", cut from the outside.

It is better to cut the strips for the platbands, leaving a margin of a few millimeters to hedge against mistakes.

2. We fix the received platbands with screws, nails or glue.

3. If you applied nails, then their caps need to be wiped off.

And if these are self-tapping screws, then you can simply put decorative plugs on them. It is enough to screw 6-8 self-tapping screws on each side of the platbands.

There are times when the width of the casing is too large, which is why it cannot be installed against a wall perpendicular to it. Then you just need to reduce the width of the casing by cutting it off. You should end up with a platband that fits right next to the wall.

If the platbands do not fit well in the corners, then such corners can be adjusted using sandpaper, but it is better to use a belt sander.

Also consider the case when the walls in the room are not straight, and are located in the shape of a trapezoid. This usually happens in toilets and bathrooms of old "Khrushchev" buildings. In such cases, it makes no sense to cut the platbands at an angle of 45 °, because they will not converge. Therefore, you can use our advice and cut the trims as in the photo.

However, such methods of installing platbands can be applied if the thickness of the box matches the thickness of the wall. And if the wall thickness is greater, then the installation is used additional additions.

Installation of extensions

So, in order to prepare additions and make installation, you first need to cut rebounds according to your size. It can be done do it yourself from a flat board.

Perfect for damp and thick walls waterproof plywood (BS), which can be additionally pasted over with a decorative film. But it is often easier and cheaper to put ready additions from MDF with decorative design.

Consider one more nuance: if the interior door design is significantly skewed, then the installation of addons is highly discouraged.

Distortions are evidence that the door frame has been installed wrong, and if the rebounds are still adjusted to such an incorrect design, then subsequently they will split and warp.

Maybe, walls in a room with a slight slope. If we are talking about small irregularities (about 5 mm), then this can be corrected with a layer of plaster. With a much greater curvature of the walls, there will be no choice - you will have to file the rebounds under the walls.

After installing the extensions and before applying the plaster the cracks must be filled with polyurethane foam.

As you know, foam tends to expand during solidification, creating a lot of pressure, and so that the design of interior doors does not lead, use our tips:

Do not remove the leveling wedges and spacers before the foam is completely dry.
Apply the foam in 3-4 layers: apply the next layer after the previous one has dried.
Leave a space of 1 cm (1 cm) between the fences and the wall. It is better to plaster this space.

We hope that our advice will bring you benefit and joy from new doors.

How to install an interior door video

A necessary attribute of every room is a heating radiator, and we are all accustomed to these cast iron ribbed ...

Installation of interior doors is a very important process in the renovation of an apartment or a private house. It is quite simple and does not require special skills, but nevertheless, it is worth recognizing that making doors strong, reliable and durable is a very important job that should be approached as responsibly as possible.

At what stage of the repair are the doors inserted in the apartment?

Of course, before starting to install interior doors, their owners have many different questions: how to do it, which doors are better, how to make them more durable and more reliable? Probably one of the most basic and very first - at what stage of the repair are the doors inserted in the apartment?

In fact, there may be several options here:

The first option is best considered when the doorway is planned to be expanded in the future. In this case, the door installation process should be done before finishing the room. This is done in order to ensure that during an action such as installing a door, a very large amount of dust settles on various pieces of furniture, and it, like ceilings with walls, cannot remain clean.
The second option should be considered when the door already fits the size of the doorway exactly. In this case, it will be most correct to install the doors after the ceilings and walls have been finished. Then the new door will not be damaged during repair work.

And, finally, the last case, the third, - after gluing wallpaper, as well as processing and washing ceilings, floors and walls. This will also help keep all furniture, doors and the room as a whole clean.

Which is the best to insert and from what material?

The second question that the owners of the renovated apartments have before installing the doors concerns the material of manufacture and the very type of door. In fact, there is no single correct answer to this question, since something individual will suit each person and each apartment. But in this article we will try to weigh the pros and cons of each door option from each material.

The choice of such an item in an apartment or house as a door depends on several parameters:

The first is, of course, the price.It differs from each company, the quality of the material and the product itself. For example, the cheapest and most affordable option is a honeycomb door, which usually costs around a thousand rubles. The most expensive and "elite" option is a solid block and a door made of it, it costs about 20 thousand rubles, which is quite expensive. Of course, there are also intermediate price categories: for example, a door made of sheet metal costs in most cases 4500 rubles, which is quite acceptable.
The second parameter also follows from the first parameter - the material of the product. It has already been said about the honeycomb material, solid massif and sheet-like fabric. The first is, due to its cheapness, the most substandard, the second is very high quality, reliable and durable, while the average quality is sheet (or typesetting) canvas, MDF, chipboard, as well as glued wood. The middle price category also includes a door with metal and glass.

There are also doors classified by material, such as: glass, from eco-veneer:

The choice of a door also depends on its design and color.Naturally, classic, very simple designs will cost less in price and fit into the vast majority of interior styles, but they will not have a special personality and will not become a decoration for a house or apartment. So, a smart option would be to invest in a beautiful, original door design, as it can make the atmosphere of the home even more comfortable and pleasant. Do not forget that the combination of this product with the interior and style of the apartment is very important, and the wrong selection can spoil the appearance of the house.
The next parameter is, of course, the construction. Naturally, for the most part, the door has a classic, standard rectangular shape and medium thickness, but it, like the shape, can vary. You need to focus on the width, height and other dimensions of the doorway, as well as, as in other cases, on the interior of the home. By design, there are also doors: double, sliding, sliding, double-leaf, hidden, swing, folding, single-rail, on rollers, as well as telescopic and soundproof.

In the end, we come to the last parameter in order, but not in importance: manufacturing firm.A lot can also depend on it, since different companies offer a different assortment and quality, and also differ in price and sometimes very much. The best companies producing doors are Vladimirskaya Doorskaya Factory, Verda, Alvero, Bravo and others.

What tools and materials will you need?

Naturally, for such a process as installing an interior door, you will need a variety of special tools and materials. They must be purchased before this step. So, we need:

a hammer;
chisels (20 and 15-16 mm);
roulette;
level and scrap;
screwdriver and screwdriver;
a hacksaw designed for woodworking;
miter box;
puncher;

drill;
milling machine (milling cutter) and circular (if possible);
mounting kit;
installation accessories;
strips;
miter saw;
vacuum cleaner (for cleaning the room).

As for the materials for installation, we need:

door leaf;
door frame and fittings (this includes locks, hinges, handles);
polyurethane foam;
wedges;
nails, dowels and several screws.

Making measurements

Step by step, we came directly to the work itself. And the first step on the way to the result will be measurements - a very important step.

So, we need a few measurements. The first, as you might guess, is the width of the doorway: it determines the size of the door itself. If the doorway itself has yet to be built, it is imperative to take into account the size of the furniture to be carried through it in the future. A mistake in choosing the size can make it very difficult to repair and rearrange furniture in the future.although custom sizes are sometimes acceptable and possible.

Next is the next step. First you need to process the door block with a primer, before that, clean it with sandpaper. Before the next step, you should try on the future door in the opening to check its size, as well as the direction in which it opens. In addition, we need a level: with its help, we will need to measure and check the level of verticality and horizontalness and, having measured the diagonals, make sure that all right angles in the structure are observed.

After all these installation measurements, you can proceed directly to the work itself.

Preparing the opening

Preparing the doorway is one of the most important stages in this work. Below is a detailed discussion of how to make it carefully and correctly:

To begin with, you should evaluate the door leaf. In other words, it is necessary to first remove the old door from the hinges, if there is one, if not, then this stage, of course, is not required.
It is necessary to remove all door trims, and those voids that were formed between the opening and the door frame and filled with insulating material should be removed.
After all these actions, cuts are usually made in the places of the side parts of the door frame, while moving from top to bottom. The next step is to destroy the lower and then the upper elements of this very box. Then do the same with the upper and lower bars.

Among other things, the preparation of the opening includes adjustment to the dimensions of the door itself, which is very important for its reliability. Increasing the opening usually does not present any particular difficulties, while expanding will require the use of devices such as a hammer drill and a grinder.
In the event that it is required to reduce our opening and quite significantly, a brick will be required. With a slight decrease in size (up to about 50 mm), you just need to install a frame in it. It can be made either from metal or from a regular corner.
This structure then needs to be leveled, filled in the gaps in it, processed with a cement solution, if necessary.
A problem may arise that the opening loses its appearance during processing. Then you should align it and plaster it again. In any case, it is always worth very carefully checking the condition of the doorway, its evenness and other parameters.

How to assemble the product yourself?

When we purchase furniture in a hardware or furniture store, the purchase is most often not a completely ready-to-install structure, but a set of many large elements that we need to work with later on our own. At first, beginners who are unprepared in this matter often have a question about how to assemble the product themselves?

The main problem of this work is this: cuts and joints of door components are often unusual and have a specific structure, which can significantly complicate the whole process. But even this problem has its own solution.

This article presents the simplest of all possible assembly schemes for an interior door:

The first step is to place the door frame beam on the floor (or on another necessarily flat surface), spreading it around the canvas.
Next, you should form a gap between the door and this very canvas, then you will need cardboard from the packaging. After that, it is necessary to attach the blanks of the upper crossbar to the upper ends of the box bars, very accurately measure the lintel parameters.
The next step is to create cuts. They are best done with a fine-toothed hacksaw specially designed for carving metal surfaces.

At the next, already fourth stage, you need to attach the upper part of the structure to the bars, lay cardboard to form a gap. Next, we cut off the profile, if it interferes with the connection of the elements, we screw the screws into the places for them.
The last step is to leave a gap (about 0.8-2 cm in size). By analogy, we create the required threshold.

How to put the loops correctly?

Installing hinges on an interior door is an important stage that has many individual subtleties and nuances. Before this work, which includes such subtleties as a tie-in, installation of overhead hinges (as well as non-separable, non-cut and simple awnings), you should also familiarize yourself with the correct instructions for installing hinges in order for the future structure to be reliable, to serve the owner for a long time and faithfully.

This article describes one way to install loops, it is called a handicraft method. It is average in its complexity, at the same time it is very reliable and promises the durability of the product, moreover, it allows you to conveniently adjust the height of the hinges:

So, first you need to mark the groove. To do this, you need to attach a canopy to the end of the full (or a box) and circle it with a simple pencil, there is no difficulty in this.
Second step: edging with a hammer and chisel. The edging must be made along the entire groove, and very evenly and efficiently.

The last stage: sampling the groove with a chisel. This process requires utmost care and accuracy, because even a slight careless movement of the hand can spoil the appearance of the door surface. There are other, alternative ways to install hinges. For example, a professional method, which only professional workers can usually implement with their own hands, but the quality of this method is worth it.

As for what you can create with your own hands, there are several ways. Firstly, this is the installation of hinges without a tie. Secondly, non-standard but very comfortable pivot loops. Thirdly, screw hinges, although they do not have the most aesthetic appearance.

Mounting options

Ease of use depends on many different nuances. One of them is the way of fixing the door and there are several ways of such:

The first known variant of door fastening is the so-called frame system. Its essence is that the door is placed in a steel frame and it can be moved thanks to the installation of a groove on the wheels.
The second option is a rail system, the difference of which from the first is that instead of wheels or rollers, special rails are used here. They are very reliable and easy to use.

There are also other ways and options. These include the well-known installation on hinges, as well as such unusual methods as the option without screws or also without anchors. There are a large number of door fastening options, and everyone can choose something to their taste.

DIY installation: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself door installation includes its own technology, scheme, installation procedure according to GOST. It has its own standards and nuances that must be known and followed, regardless of whether it is a box installation, sheathing without additional elements or with them, and so on.

Installation of the box

So, this process has already been discussed in detail above. It is only worth mentioning that this type of repair installation work is one of the most important in the installation and installation of any door, because it can actually be considered the basis of the structure. It is very important to make all the necessary measurements accurately, carry out work carefully and follow safety precautions.

Correctly performed installation of the box is the key to a reliable, sturdy design.

How to insert with addons?

Dobras are two vertical racks and 1 horizontal bar, the purpose of which is to increase the size of the so-called box coverage area. That is, they are simply expanding it.

Usually such products are made from solid wood, as well as from materials such as MDF and fiberboard.

The sequence of work is not very difficult, but such an operation can help in many cases, for example, for installing awnings:

So, first of all, it is necessary, using a milling machine, to make a groove in the timber along the entire door frame, along its perimeter.
Further, fake slopes must be attached with glue, and then strengthened this structure with self-tapping screws.

The next step is to attach the false slopes to the timber, and place the panel at the top on the remaining vertical elements.
In the middle of work, you need to mate an already enlarged box, install it in an already made opening, for this we use self-tapping screws, as well as spacer wedges.
Finally, the wedges need to be placed around the perimeter of our door. The distance between the door frame and the door itself must be filled with special foam, the excess must be cut off. Done!

Self-setting threshold

There are two ways to install a door sill. The first is called open, the second, respectively, closed. The first method is quite simple, but still looks not very aesthetically pleasing:

In this method, first of all, a hole is drilled openly, in which the fasteners are then fixed.
Then the threshold itself is laid, fixed at several points at once using self-tapping screws.

Although the first method is many times faster, the result after the second looks much more beautiful and aesthetically pleasing:

First of all, we fasten the first part of the threshold to the floor using several self-tapping screws.
The next step is decoration, we insert the lower bar into the resulting grooves.
Alternatively, the decorative strip is attached with ordinary glue. This completes the setting of the threshold.

How to align?

Correcting errors such as unevenness in the design is very important. After the assessment of irregularities has been carried out, the door is removed and re-measured in all parameters, you need to proceed directly to the work itself:

If there are gaps between the floor and the door itself, first of all it is necessary to apply a level approximately 1.2-1.4 meters wide across the door opening. This will help level the surface.
Also sometimes flattening the carpet, if present, can help in this case.
At the end of the work, you need to hang the door again and check its condition

How to fill up the cracks?

The cracks between the door and the frame are a common problem that many apartment and house owners have to deal with. You can cope with it with the help of ordinary polyurethane foam, but it is better to choose it of a higher quality and more expensive in order to keep the quality of the work performed longer.

There are also options such as the most common foam rubber and even moss! Another way: heaters sold in any hardware store.

Mount nuances

Mounting a door, like any other furniture-related repair work, has a lot of different nuances that the owners of the door should definitely pay attention to:

For example, in order to install a door in a deep or very large opening, you need to purchase either additional accessories, or also install the structure of the second door. Also in this case it is worth considering the option of purchasing and installing heavier doors.
In order to correctly, reliably and with high quality install the door to the corner of the room, you need to take into account the fact that the box must be installed at a special required angle, you should also pay special attention to cutting the brick into the brick opening and fastening the structure of this very box, as this may cause some Problems.
With different wall thicknesses, it is necessary either to make all measurements very accurately, or to align them before installing the door or mounting.

In a panel house, choosing materials and structures for the actual work itself, it is worth paying special attention to the wall internal expanded clay concrete panels.
To equip a door in the opening of a load-bearing wall is a very difficult task, and in this process one should not forget these important points: the material used when building a house or creating an apartment, a floor plan and an apartment or a house as a whole, the state of the floors, as well as the thickness and other parameters of the wall ...

Installation in some cases is a very difficult kind of work, but following these tips, you can cope with everything perfectly and without any particular difficulties.

Finishing

Finishing is a very simple, practical and convenient way to decorate and transform an interior door or even the entire interior of an apartment, house or summer cottage. There are several main types of interior door finishing: installation of a structure such as slopes, decoration and installation of a door frame or door leaf, installation of platbands and, finally, laminate finishing.

Decorating slopes is not the most difficult, but the dirtiest and most unpleasant type of decoration.It will need a primer, different types of putty (starting and finishing), corners, a grid for plasters. Using these tools, you need to putty and clean the door, its slopes.

Structures that can decorate and transform a door beyond recognition are a door frame, platbands, door leaf. These options, as a rule, do not take much time and effort, but still require the utmost care, patience and adherence to special rules.

How to check if the installation is correct?

In order to check the correct installation of the door, you need to perform several simple, but at the same time very important for its further operation actions:

The door should never squeak, the hinges should move easily and stand firmly, opening the door should not present any difficulties.
When opening the structure to an angle of any size, it should stand straight, not stagger, not deviate.
It is necessary to conduct a very careful external inspection of the door, check it in operation, carefully consider every detail of the structure.

Beautiful interiors

There are a lot of different options for interiors for interior doors. For example, a door in white, light, neutral color is perfect for light rooms or apartments with a minimalistic design. Bright, for example, red doors will perfectly fit into non-standard interiors.

There are many doors on the market, the installation of which, in principle, is not a very complicated technical process, requires knowledge of some details during assembly and installation. The installed door structure should not open spontaneously, as well as close with significant mechanical forces. Finally, the doors must be strong and not fall apart at the slightest bang.

Types of interior doors

First, you need to figure out the types of doors that are classified by the material from which they are made:

The most popular option for interior doors is a wooden structure. A solid wood door will always look attractive and solid, its service life is very long, even with careless handling;
Veneered doors are widespread due to their relatively low cost and lightness. In addition, they are made from natural materials and are of high quality;
Laminated doors and PVC doors are also popular in the building materials market. They are inexpensive and widely sold. Covered with a special film, they are resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. In addition, they are lightweight and quite durable;
Plastic doors are also in demand today. For interior designs, they are made to match the color of the tree. These are very strong and lightweight doors.

Four main types of interior doors

Door frame and trim material

The material of the door frame and platbands is often made of fiberboard (in fact, it is pressed paper). This design has minimal strength, because a fiberboard bar can bend under its own weight. Installing doors with it requires maximum care, and during operation, the boxes and platbands can be easily damaged. Platbands made of fiberboard are inexpensive and light in weight. Fiberboard is not suitable for hanging a high-quality door leaf; it is better to use wood in such cases.

Natural wood without processing is a profiled edged board. This is a fairly solid base on which you can hang interior doors, but it needs sanding, painting or varnishing.

Options for covering and design of interior doors made of solid oak

When choosing wood laminated with plastic or veneer as platbands and doorframes, you should make sure of the proper thickness and quality of the coating. With large doorways, an additional strip may be needed.

Tools and supplies

To install the door structure, you must stock up on the following power tools:

Perforator;
Grinder;
Drill;
Screwdriver;
Electric jigsaw or hand router.

Also, for hanging, it will be necessary to have a hand tool:

Hammer;
Ax;
Lomika or mallets;
Chisels;
Construction knife;
Straight and Phillips screwdrivers;
Hacksaws.

For measurements you will need:

Corner;
Roulette;
Building level.

It will not do without attachments and consumables:

Drills for wood;
Pen drill;
Borax for concrete;
Cross bit bits;
Spacer bars;
Wooden pegs;
Polyurethane foam;
Wood screws and dowels for them.

Additional tools and consumables may be needed for careless dismantling of the door frame; for this case, you will need a putty and a spatula.

Preparation for work

Before installing the door, you will need to remove the old door structure, which is attached to the walls with nails, screws or ribs of stone or brickwork. You can knock out the block with a sledgehammer, but there is a danger of damaging the walls, which will require their restoration. It is best to cut the hardware and remove the box carefully and without loss.

Dismantling the old door frame

First, you will need to separate the platbands and remove the door from the hinges. Before cutting or unscrewing the fasteners, you will need to clear the space between the door frame and the wall from the plaster. This will require a hammer and chisel. Try not to seriously touch the masonry. Cut the fasteners from top to bottom. Doors are on a metal frame, which is bolted to the base. Before sawing the clips, you must first unscrew the bolts.

The old door frame is sawn and removed from the doorway

Now that nothing is holding the box, you can remove it using a mallet or small crowbar. There are times when the box is tightly held in the opening, then you need to saw it into pieces and remove it in fragments. The vacant opening must be cleaned of all unnecessary, after which it is ready to install a new door structure.

Sequence of work

The installation of interior doors must follow a certain sequence, which guarantees the correct installation process.

We collect the door frame

You can easily assemble the door frame by following the instructions. First you need to carefully unpack the box with the kit, carefully opening the container with a knife, without scratching it. The kit should include:

Looped bar;
Headroom or top beam;
Porch.

First, the new door frame is assembled on the floor, all its parts, including the platbands on one side, are connected with self-tapping screws

There are several methods for connecting these components of the door frame assembly. With a spike connection, it will be necessary to saw the spikes on the elements of the box, and in the future, you will need to align with the corresponding grooves on the opposite part.

When filing the door frame segments at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees, using a chisel, the elements to be connected are trimmed and fixed using self-tapping screws. After basting the holes for them, the parts are again disassembled to install the hinges.

Places where it is required to position the door hinges are marked with a pencil on the block. They are determined by looking at the placement of the hinges on the door leaf. After connecting the upper fittings on the vertical bar and the canvas, you need to determine the location of the lower loops.

The installation of the door frame ends with the connection of the hinge and the lintel of a wooden bar along the previously marked holes. Craftsmen advise assembling the doorway on a solid and level base, for example, on the floor. All parts must be connected with self-tapping screws, and then scrupulously inspect the assembled structure for flaws. If there are none, you need to start installing the door frame in the opening.

Fastening should be done using previously removed plastic elements. Hammer them using a peg so as not to damage the box. Displaced planks must be returned to their place with a light hammer blow.

If there is no special fastener in the structure, the assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.

In fiberboard, screws must be screwed into holes prepared in advance with a diameter of at least 0.5 mm. For example, for 2.5 mm screws, take a 2 mm drill.

It is recommended to mark the place for fasteners exactly in the middle of the end of the vertical segment. The end strips should be stretched in a strict straight line, in case of inconsistencies, you need to turn the required part over with the other end.

The bottom of the box should be fixed with a special spacer bar. Measure the width with a tape measure, apply a wooden plank and fix in places that will not be visible during installation.

Checking the distance between the sides and collecting the bottom of the door frame using a special spacer bar

The screw must not be screwed in at the edge of the plank, as splitting may occur. Fastening at an angle and not to the end, avoiding distortions, which is controlled by a corner.

Preparing the doorway

When preparing a doorway, consider the following:

The door frame should be 1-3 cm less than the doorway, and the foam will be needed to fill the remaining distance;
The opening should be strengthened along the width of the doorway, for this you need a clamp of horizontal and vertical bars in order to avoid unsteadiness, and brickwork and plaster must be sealed with mortar;
Along the perimeter, the depth of the doorway should be the same, for this they use putty, plaster or drywall;
The contact of the floor coverings at the junction should be in the middle of the canvas, since in other cases both coverings will be visible from the same room;
The opening located at the perpendicular wall must be re-planned in advance, otherwise complex work will be required with trimming the platbands along, etc.

Installing the assembled frame in the doorway

For self-installation of the assembled box in the door, you need to follow the following procedure:

Attach the racks to the lintel perpendicularly with self-tapping screws. When installing MDF doors, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for screws to avoid cracking;
Install the box in the opening and fix it with spacers and wedges;
Level the structure with a building level, and then fix it with screws;
Hang the door leaf on the hinges. Installation of the box will not do without quality control, elimination of installation flaws, if any;
At the next stage, you will need to close the door and put spacers between the canvas and the opening, this will save the structure from being squeezed out when pouring foam.

Installation and fastening diagram of door frame parts in the opening

Finally, foam blowing the gaps between the wall and the box. When the foam hardens, the spacers are removed. Now you need to install the platbands. To do this, saw down a 45 degree angle and place the pieces in their proper place. Secure with self-tapping screws, glue or finishing nails.

The screws are covered with decorative plugs, and the nails are rubbed. Everything, with the installation of the door frame is finished.

Mounting the box

To fix the box, you need to align its position with a level. Mark the joints with the wall, on the planks and the wall itself.

Remove the end decorative strip and drill 5-6 holes on both sides with a drill at a distance of 30-50 cm.

Remove the box from the opening. Drill holes in the thickness of the wall with a puncher using a 0.6 cm drill. Hammer in the dowels. Take the drill more than 2-3 cm dowels, since sand from concrete or brick collects in the hole. This will not block the dowel.

Installing a door lock

When installing a lock, you need to take into account the level of other locks and handles in the apartment. For this, the position of the lower edge is marked from the bottom of the door leaf by an integer (80 or 90 cm).

Attach the lock to the end of the door exactly in the middle and mark along the contour. Remove the top layer with a router with an overhang of 0.2-0.3 cm. In the absence of a router, you can use a chisel and a hammer.

The lock body will require a larger recess. To do this, take a feather drill of the desired diameter. With a wide working part, several holes are drilled, removing the partitions with a chisel.

We prepare the seat for the door lock by making a recess on the end part of the door leaf using a chisel and a hammer

The lock is tried on to the door facade in the place of fastening and the location of the handle is marked. Drill with an appropriate drill.

You need to put a lock in the groove and attach it to the end. Install part of the lock - the core, fit the handles, securing with clamps and pins.

Fastening loops with a fitting is similar. The excess layer is removed with a router or chisel. The same is done with the box.

We fasten the hinges with self-tapping screws, if the doors are made of MDF, then first you need to drill holes in the attachment points

To accurately mark the place of fastening of the door hinges, screw them to the canvas, and put the door in place. Mark the points of contact with the box with a pencil.

Installing the lock bar

Hang the door leaf on the hinges and close. Mark the location of the lock tongue on the opposite plank. Cut out the extra layer with a chisel. Screw on the metal strip.

The gaps between the door and the box should not be more than 0.2-0.3 cm.

Fastening platbands and additional strips

The usual width of the door frame is 0.75 cm, which is quite enough for installing the door into the wall. If the door is placed in a load-bearing wall, then the open surface is finished with plaster or additional plank. It should be fixed with glue like liquid nails. You can also use decorative screw caps.

The very last stage is the installation of platbands covering the assembly seam. Installation is carried out using screws with decorative plugs or nails without heads.

It is not difficult to do the installation of an interior door on your own. A simple step-by-step scheme will be described below, starting from choosing the interior door you like in the store and ending with the independent installation of interior doors with step-by-step photos.

Interior doors can be divided into several types

On the market, manufacturers of door structures offer a fairly wide range of models. Finished interior doors can be made from different materials. The most common types of materials are:,,.

Useful information:

1. Fiberboard - door: the frame is made of wood and sheathed with laminated fiberboard sheets. The advantages of such doors include: low cost relative to other types, low weight, which makes it possible to deliver them from the point of sale to the house on their own, ease of installation. Given these points, they are popular among buyers, due to which their wide assortment is most often presented in stores.

Of the minuses, the low strength of the fiberboard itself can be noted, because of which the door breaks down and becomes unusable quite easily, poor resistance to moisture, the door can twist. Therefore, we do not recommend installing it in bathrooms with a weak hood, this material loves dry rooms.

Photo - Models of MDF doors

3. Natural wood - interior doors made of this material are the most durable. Their price directly depends on what kind of wood was used for their production. Doors made of precious woods are used for installation in rooms with an author's design; they will perfectly fit into a classic interior. The width of the interior doors is matched to the size of your opening.

Photo - Models of wooden doors

The list of interior doors by type can be supplemented with steel, but these types are not very popular among the general population, therefore they are not included in the article for a detailed description.

Come here if you are interested in and.

Types of door frames for interior doors

The correct interior door should be in a reliable box for the door, because its quality will depend on how long the door will last, as well as the design of the doorway of your room. Door frames can be divided into three main types.

1. Fiberboard box... It looks pretty decent, but when choosing a box made of this material, the strength of the entire structure will be questionable. The middle of the box bar bends from its weight, not to mention the possible deflections from the weight of the door leaf itself. Since the main components in the composition of fiberboard, in a simple way, are glue and paper, it must be borne in mind that they are very fragile and not durable. It is not recommended to hang doors made of wood and MDF on them due to their heavy weight.

Photo - Box of fiberboard

2. Untreated wood box... The cost is at the level of fiberboard boxes, but unlike the latter, boxes made of dry profiled timber have a higher strength. Therefore, when choosing between fiberboard boxes and untreated wood boxes, we recommend choosing the latter. It is also necessary to consider that you will need additional materials for the final finishing of the box.

Photo - Untreated wooden box

3. Laminated wood box... No final finishing required as it is already laminated with paper. And here there is one important point, when choosing such a box, the quality of lamination is very important. If thin paper was used for this, there is a high probability of scuffs, scratches, cracks, the coating loses its appearance. Perhaps a better option would be a box made of untreated wood with self-finishing and painting.

Photo - Laminated wooden box

Also, the entire doorway of an interior door may require additional processing after installing the doors. Everything will whistle from your opening, its size, the location of the door in it, the interior of the room.

For such processing, you can use an additional strip and platbands. The necessary kits can be purchased at the store. We recommend that you decide on their need after the final installation of the door in order to understand what kind of final finish you need. After all, the purchase of additional materials is additional costs, which in the end may not be necessary.

A door is considered for an example with a fiberboard frame. If you need to install wooden boxes, you need to work in the same steps. Installation will be easier, since wood is stronger than fiberboard.

Step 1. Selection instruments and necessary additional consumables. For installation you will need:

saw;
electric drill ();
drills 3 mm and 4 mm for wood;
drills 4 mm and 6 mm for concrete;
screwdriver;
roulette;
a pen;
wood screws;
fast mounting dowels;
assembly foam.

Step 2. Determine the scheme for fixing the box in the doorway of the interior door.

Photo - Scheme of fastening the door frame in the opening

The figure shows a diagram of fastening the door frame in the opening. As you can see, the interior door (2) is installed in the box (1), which is fixed in the opening with screws (3). Blow out foam between the wall and the box (4). The process is as follows: we install the box in the opening, fix it to the wall, and foam it.

Photo - Disassembled door frame and door before installation

If, after installing the door, its sill cannot be hidden in the floor, for convenience, choose a box without a U-shaped sill. It does not have a lower crossbar, so there will be simply nothing to prevent you from walking.

Step 3. Assembling the door frame.

Photo - The door frame must be assembled for ease of installation

Hinges must be attached to the purchased box. The door should have a cutout for the handle, as well as for the door lock of the interior door. We start assembling the door frame. It is necessary to connect all parts of the box together and adjust to the size of the opening. Factory length usually comes with a 5 cm margin.

The surest option not to be mistaken is to assemble the parts on the floor as they should stand in the doorway. Particular attention should be paid to the metal bases of the hinges, they should stick up so that the door can be hung from above.

Choose the opening side depending on the rooms between which the doors are installed. From small rooms, such as a bathroom, a pantry, it is better to open doors to the outside, from large rooms to the corridor - to the inside.

Photo - The correct position of the end plates

We attach the upper bar to the screws. The end strips (1) must lie in line. If there is no line, then the plank is not lying correctly and needs to be turned around.

Photo - Tighten the screws after preliminary drilling

Given the structure of the fiberboard and the characteristics of its strength, in the box, before screwing in, it is necessary to drill holes with a wood drill with a diameter of 3 mm. We carry out this action so that our box does not crack during the assembly process. For the same reason, the screw attachment points should be closer to the center, away from edges and corners.

Photo - Assembled box

For fastening the strap, four self-tapping screws will be enough, two on each side.
If the door is lying flat on the floor, place a soft cloth underneath it to reduce the chance of damage to the laminate.

Photo - Factory stock box

We will cut off the factory stock of the box (protruding edge). To fit the box, we accurately measure the dimensions of the doorway of the interior door. And we transfer it to the door frame, taking into account the gap minus 1-2 cm on all sides for the possibility of foaming. We recommend that you double-check yourself for the size of the structure several times.

Photo - Measuring the height of the opening

Photo - Cutting line of the excess part of the box

It is better to cut off the protruding excess with a hand saw. It is advisable not to use an automatic saw to avoid damage to the coating.

Photo - Trimming excess with a hand saw

As a result of all the manipulations, we get a U-shaped door frame, ready for installation in the doorway of an interior door.

Photo - Wooden box assembly

Step 4. Installing the box in the opening.

We put the box in the doorway. Level up. We check the correctness and evenness of the assembly of the box by hanging the door on the hinges and closing it.

Photo - Checking the position of the box with a level

Photo - Drill diameter 4 mm for wood

The box installed in the opening must be secured with self-tapping screws. Remove the end trim and drill 7-8 through holes on each side. The distance between the holes is 25-30 cm.

Photo - Drilled box

A drill for wood is not designed for drilling walls, we only drill a fiberboard box with it. After that, we again check the position of the box using a level, since during the drilling process it could have shifted. If there are no changes, start drilling the wall. Using a thin concrete drill with a diameter of 4 mm, through the holes in the box, we mark the wall. You cannot completely drill the wall through the box, as it can be damaged. The hole diameter is 4 mm, if you make it larger, then the caps of the screws will fall out. Next, we remove the box from the opening and start making holes using a 6 mm diameter drill. If the wall is brick, the holes for installation should be in a solid brick, and not in a masonry joint, in which the dowels are very poorly held.

Photo - Drilled brick wall

Photo - Dowels in solid brick

Photo - Self-tapping screws for quick installation - on the left, self-tapping screws for wood - on the right.

Dowels are mounted in the finished holes. We fix the box in the wall with self-tapping screws. For convenience, you can use a screwdriver or a drill with an attachment for the screw head. Do not screw in the self-tapping screws completely, the box may bend. To avoid sagging, wedge lining is possible. To check the evenness and absence of distortions, in the process of screwing in the screws, additionally check the box by level.

Photo - Wedge lining

At the end of the installation, the box is checked from the side of the room using a level.

Photo - Checking the box by level

Step 5. Installing the door on the hinges.

How to put an interior door? It is enough to put the door on the hinges

If it is a fiberboard door, given its weight, it is possible to do it alone. After installing it, we will try to open and close. In the closed position, the gaps between the frame and the door should be about 3 mm.