When arranging engineering networks of any kind, you need to find compromises that will create a truly working communication, and at the same time not spend much money. This also applies to the issue of the depth of the sewer system, here it is worth considering not only the depth of freezing of the earth, but also the price of earthworks.

When creating the outer part of the sewage system, a closed or open method is used. In the open version, the pipe is placed directly on the ground (after preparing the drainage from the sand). When closed, special "covers" made of reinforced concrete are used.

It is clear that with the help of such protection for pipes, their service life is also extended. Kind of covers help protect the pipeline from earth pressure, but they will have to be paid well for.

If the issue of saving money comes first, then experts recommend making narrow trenches, this will also enhance the protection of pipes. You can also protect materials with special spacers between the edges of the ditch. Such parts are made of wood or metal, and are installed every 0.5 - 1 meter.

What depth is needed

Today, the process of arranging sewer systems is constantly being improved. Working methods that were used 20 years ago are now considered obsolete. So, if earlier small booths on the street were used as a toilet, today this no longer suits anyone. When there is no desire or time to do all the amenities on your own, then you can use the service of special companies that will do everything quickly and efficiently. And if it is important not to spend a large amount of money, then everything can be arranged on your own. The most practical and simple option would be to install a septic tank.

Such a container is mounted in a special pit on the site. The distance from the septic tank to the dwelling must be at least 5 meters. As for the depth, here the indicator of 1.5 meters is considered optimal. So that the septic tank is not damaged by soil pressure or from the effects of groundwater, special concrete sarcophagi are also made.

Given the depth of the septic tank installation, it is also possible to determine the depth for the installation of the pipeline. It must be remembered that the pipe section from the housing to the septic tank should be almost even, without any knees and turns.

The pipes are installed slightly higher than the freezing rate of the earth, and in general, the depth should not be more than 80 centimeters. The best option would be a depth of 50 cm. According to this principle, pipes are laid in places where there are no roads or other areas that are cleared of snow.

How to determine the depth of a pipeline in a private house

Consider the following points:

• Pipe sizes;
• The slope of the pipe (according to the standards is 2-3 cm for each running meter of pipes);
• Used materials.

If it was decided to use a septic tank for a country house, then the depth should also be calculated taking into account the characteristics of the area, and taking into account the point of exit of the system from the housing to the pit with a septic tank.

A prerequisite is the correct determination of the slope of the pipes. If you miss this process, then the drains will leave the house with difficulties, and frequent blockages are also possible.

Inside the building, turns, elbows and different connection points can be used, but in the external pipeline, all these elements should be used only if absolutely necessary.

Why is the question of depth so important

There are many different issues associated with this issue. So, if the pipes are mounted at the level of freezing of the soil, then the wastewater will begin to cool down, this will lead to blockages and subsequent malfunctions of the sewer system. In such situations, you often have to "endure" up to freezing temperatures, and go without drainage throughout the winter. A small number of various connections will also have a positive effect on the operation of the sewer system. So, if you avoid turns in the outdoor system, then in the future there will be no need to dismantle and clean pipes.

When turns are nevertheless necessary, it is better to install a special well at these points so that there is always easy access to the problem area of \u200b\u200bthe pipeline. Such a simple solution will allow you to regularly check the sewage system, and, if necessary, clean the pipes.

An important point is the indicator of the freezing depth of pipes. To calculate it correctly, you need to take into account regional characteristics. There are even special maps of soil freezing that will help solve this issue.

Climatic factor

The fact that the laying of the pipeline should be carried out taking into account the depth of freezing is understandable, but how to determine this indicator? In this case, you need to use the regulatory standards (SNiP 2.01.01.82). Thanks to this document, you can familiarize yourself with a map of certain areas with indicators of soil freezing. So, in the Moscow region, this figure will be around 1.4 m, and in a warm region near Sochi, soils freeze at a distance of 80 cm from the ground.

SNiP also recommends that when using pipes with a cross section not exceeding 500 mm from the index of the climatic features of the terrain, 0.3 m must be subtracted.If pipes of weighty diameters are used in the work, then the laying depth must be reduced by 50 cm.

An example will help to understand the question easier. When pipes with a diameter of 200 mm are installed in one of the regions of the Moscow region, then taking into account the SNiP standards, the depth should be 110 cm (140-30). But such calculations are accurate mainly when building large premises, and small country houses are equipped with a different approach.

The peculiarities of building a country house is that the sewage system must work by gravity here. An important point will be compliance with the slope angles of the pipes, because if this is not done, then problems cannot be avoided, especially with a long pipeline.

So, if we take, for example, the same house in the Moscow region with a pipe laying depth of 110 cm, and a septic tank, which is 20 meters from the house, then the calculations will be as follows. Subject to the recommendations of the slope (2-3 centimeters per linear meter), this figure will be at least 40 centimeters. This means that the hole for the pipe in the septic tank should be at a distance of 1.5 meters from the ground. This is taking into account the fact that the suburban area will be perfectly flat, but this is almost unrealistic, so you will also have to take into account the height difference indicator.

If the septic tank is equipped with concrete rings (3 pieces), then its depth should be approximately 2.7 meters (standard ring size is 90 cm). In this case, the indicator of the useful depth will be two times less (2.7 m - 1.5), i.e. 1.2 m, which is less than one and a half rings.

Biological treatment plant application

When, instead of a septic tank, the owner of the house decides to use a biological treatment station, the depth level will also be 1.5 m.This means that difficult excavation work is to be done to dig a pit, and large sums of money will have to be spent on the installation of revision wells that are needed for maintenance modern systems.

All these points will greatly affect the total cost of arranging the sewer system, and at the same time will not bring the desired effect. In country houses, there is no such heavy load on the pipeline.

There are three more factors that indicate the uselessness of this lesson:

1. In residential premises, the wastewater temperature is kept at room level, therefore, the frost in the pipeline is removed on its own;
2. If the house does not live permanently, but only periodically, then there will simply be nothing to freeze during downtime;
3. During the wastewater treatment process, heat is also emitted from a septic tank or other system, which allows ice to thaw.

Therefore, laying pipes at great depths is not necessary, especially since it will also result in a round sum. For the middle part of the system, the recommended depth is 50-70 cm, and then pipes must be installed taking into account the required slope.

If it is possible to connect your system to the central sewage system, then the main point in determining the depth will be the location of the connection point. When pipes are laid below such a point, then the performance of the whole system will be questionable, because in such cases, gravity is impossible.

How to solve the problem with gravity

Today experts offer two ways to help solve this issue:

• Installation of fecal pumps. Such equipment is used in those places that are previously located below the level of the central system. At this point, it should be borne in mind that the sewer system will now be dependent on electricity, which brings many inconveniences in areas remote from cities, where the electricity supply can hardly be called uninterrupted;
• Insulate the system. To equip a gravity sewer system at a shallow depth, you need to use a closed installation option. This will require special trays. The pipes must be wrapped in special insulating materials or heating elements are installed, this will prevent the freezing of wastewater.

If an open method is used for the installation of pipes and insulation is used, then a layer of special material must be waterproofed. If the insulation gets wet, then it will quickly lose its ability to maintain the required temperature.

Thermal insulation and heating cables should also be installed in areas where the weather is very harsh in winter. In some places, the level of soil freezing can be up to 10 meters. Of course, it is not necessary to dig out pits of such depth; it is better to take care of the thermal insulation of the pipeline.

Pipe strength

When determining the depth of the pipeline, one cannot ignore such an indicator as the strength of the materials used. Now the most popular option for arranging the outer part of the sewer is PVC pipes.

When choosing pipes for your sewer system, you need to carefully study all the requirements and recommendations of manufacturers. On the street, you need to install pipes with high strength characteristics and the ability to work in an aggressive environment. For internal sewerage, the requirements are not so strict.

If the pipes are installed at a great depth or there is a road at the top, then only a closed installation method should be used and the pipes themselves must be very strong. Double-layer corrugated products based on polyethylene are perfect.

On the street, orange-colored pipes are most often installed; they will be clearly visible in the ground. In the production of such materials, various additives are added to plastic that increase the strength of products. This allows the pipes to withstand varying degrees of stress. These materials are intended for installation at a depth of 3 meters.

Indoors, there is no question of depth, but there are also some tips to help you do everything in the best way. The inner part of the sewer can be equipped with different forks, knees and sharp turns, but it is better to simplify the sewer system as much as possible, this will give several advantages at once:

• You can save money when buying materials and installing pipes;
• The simplest possible sewage system will work perfectly.

Indoor sewerage must be done so that the wastewater flows out smoothly. When the drainage is done in a room on the 1st floor, it is better to hide the pipes under the floor. Also, using this method, the system is mounted in two-story houses.

When there is a significant difference in height between the inside of the sewer and the outside, then you need to use special elbows to connect the pipeline. At the same time, do not forget about a knee of 30 degrees, it will provide a smooth drainage of wastewater, which will eliminate pipe damage.

Earthwork during the construction of an external system

Today, when building a country house, both machine work and manual work are used. It is much easier to carry out work of this kind using special equipment. In such situations, the dimensions of the trench depend on the diameter of the materials and the level of the slope. When using pipes of 110 mm, the width indicator should be around 600 mm. Also, the required depth indicator is also determined.

When the site is heavily built up and there is no access to special equipment, then all earthwork will have to be done by hand. In this case, the dimensions of the trench are needed the same as in the first case with special equipment. In depth, you need to dig a hole 5 centimeters more than the required level of pipeline installation, because you need to leave a little space for the sand layer.

How to install pipes outdoors

To install the outer part of the sewage system, you need to perform work in several stages:

• First, it is necessary to cover the bottom of the dug trench with 50 mm sand, and then compact the base;
• Next, prepare the necessary materials (pipes, seals, fittings, etc.);
• You need to start the installation of pipes from the foundation of the building. In most cases, a special conclusion for the pipeline is made even during the construction of the foundation. If you were not lucky enough to calculate this even during construction, then diamond drilling is used for this purpose;
• For a good indicator of the density and strength of the pipes, a silicone grease must be used. To do this, silicone is applied to the smooth end of the material and all this is inserted into the socket with a sealing collar;

• When the pipeline system needs a turn, then smooth bends (special shaped parts) are used, they perform the function of collecting the external network;
• With a long system (from 10 meters), special wells are needed at turns, they will allow timely checking and cleaning of pipes;
• After assembling the piping system, you need to check if the angle of inclination is correct and fill the pipes with sand. Before backfilling, you can make a small check by letting water into the sewer. If there are no leaks, then you can fall asleep and proceed to the next stages of work;
• You only need to ram the sand that will be on both sides of the pipe, you do not need to touch anything above the pipes;
• The sand layer above the pipes should be at least 15 centimeters. After that, and to the very top, the trench is covered with soil. By the way, it must be poured with a slide, because subsidence will occur over a certain period of time.

Video

Any private house must have its own sewerage system inside the building and a dirty wastewater drainage system that directs flows into a centralized sewer pipe or an autonomous septic tank. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house is being installed, and many schemes have been developed for its implementation, so your task is to choose the correct sewerage device in a private house with your own hands, purchase building materials and prepare a tool. Correct calculations of the sewage system mainline will help to minimize the cost of building materials, make the sewage system more efficient and more durable. And how to mount the sewerage system correctly, read on.

Where to place the sewer in the yard

A sewerage system is being installed for a private house according to established standards and regulations, the internal sewerage system should be operated for a long time, without major repairs and frequent preventive maintenance. In the house, the internal sewerage system is designed to combine pipes and plumbing equipment - baths, showers, sinks, as well as to drain sewer drains that inevitably appear in everyday life.

Even self-installation of the sewage system in a private house must adhere to the norms of SNiP and be carried out according to a plan drawn up before assembling the highway and its components. But the main part of the autonomous sewage system is the device of a septic tank or a cesspool, into which wastewater will flow.

Basic standards for arranging a homemade cesspool in the yard:

1. The distance to the residential building is ≥ 5-12 m. But with an increase in this parameter, it will be more difficult to observe the slope angle of the drainage main.
2. The distance from the outbuildings to the sump is ≥ 1 m.
3. Distance from the fence of the neighboring area ≥ 2-4 m.
4. Distance from green spaces ≥ 3-4 m.
5. From sources of drinking water, a cesspool or septic tank should be equipped 30 meters or more.
6. The depth of the sump depends not only on the volume of sewage waste water, but also on the depth of the groundwater flow. In this case, according to SNiP, the pit should not be deeper than 3 m.

The storage depth of the main volume of sewage sewage must be calculated in such a way that the tank is dug below the level of soil freezing in a given geographical region. Before you make a septic tank correctly, you should follow the rule: the container or pit should be filled no more than 30-35 cm from the manhole cover.

Solutions for the arrangement of outdoor sewerage

What treatment systems to install - directly depends on the desire and capabilities of the owner. There are the following types of sewer systems:

1. An industrial septic tank is a device that allows you to collect and process wastewater that is supplied by the internal sewerage system of the house into clean industrial water and biological fertilizers. In the septic tanks, dirty water is settled and purified by biobacteria and microorganisms, multiplying organic waste.
2. Bio-cleaning by a special cleaning station, which has a high performance and high cleaning efficiency. The system is not autonomous, depends on electricity, an expensive pleasure.
3. A dry closet is a solution for storing small volumes of sewage. A dry closet is not suitable for servicing a country house or a country house, since it is able to process and store only fecal waste of human activity.
4. A cesspool is a traditional and reliable option, it has been used for centuries. In the conditions of modern construction and development of wastewater treatment, the cesspool is being equipped less and less. In addition, larger pit sizes are more difficult to set up and maintain manually.

It is possible to independently make a sewage system in a private house for all the listed options, except for the installation of a treatment plant, which will require the help of professionals and correct calculations.

Homemade cesspool on the site

Read more about how the sewage system using a cesspool is arranged. To equip a cesspool, it is necessary to dig a large hole - a sewer pipe from the house is supplied to it - drains from the toilet, bath, kitchen, etc. If the soil in the yard is loose or sandy, then it is recommended to brick the walls of the pit or pour concrete in the form of the formwork.

The advantages of such a solution are the low cost of work and building materials, simple installation and reliability of the structure.

Disadvantages of a home-made sewage system in a private house with a cesspool:

1. It is necessary to constantly remove accumulated solid waste from the pit. Since the walls of the pit silt over time, it will also be necessary to pump out liquid wastewater.
2. Unpleasant smell on the site in case of poor sealing or its complete absence.
3. As the water will saturate the soil around the pit over time, the site will become polluted.
4. If the technique for arranging the cesspool is violated, the pipes can freeze in winter or become clogged at any time of the year.

Sealed tank

A cesspool can be made with your own hands, according to the principle of a sealed tank, as in a septic tank. The tank can be used metal or plastic, but before you make the drainage, you should correctly calculate the capacity of the tank. The calculations will be given below. It is only necessary to remember that the metal container quickly rusts, therefore it must be carefully protected with anti-corrosion substances.

The plastic tank has more advantages:

1. No waterproofing and anti-corrosion coating is needed, the container does not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
2. The plastic tank is initially sealed.
3. The small weight of the tank is the ability to mount it yourself, without renting an excavator and a crane.
4. The dimensions and shape of the tanks are in a wide range.

There is only one drawback - the high price of the product.

Plastic or w / w septic tank with one chamber

One chamber contains a small volume of waste water - about 1m 3 for a family of 2-3 people. The calculation of the volume is simple - the daily water consumption per resident will be approximately 200 liters. This means that for 2-3 people, the water consumption per day will be 600 liters, but taking into account the reserve, to prevent overfilling of the tank, a volume of 1000 liters is taken. This solution will work reliably without increasing occupancy and water consumption. Structurally, the sewage system in a house with a single-chamber drainage tank is a sewerage system in a private house according to the scheme below, and the settled water from the chamber is discharged into the ground or pumped out for the needs of the economy. To improve the quality of wastewater treatment, biological additives can be added to the tank in the form of multiplying bacteria that destroy organic matter.

Design advantages:

1. Low cost and easy installation without the involvement of special equipment.
2. Independent execution of all work operations for the installation and connection of the septic tank chamber to the internal sewage system.
3. Environmental friendliness and tightness - no unpleasant odors from the septic tank.
4. Both the reinforced concrete tank and the plastic chamber do not react with aggressive substances in the wastewater.
5. Long term maintenance-free operation of the container.

A single-chamber septic tank works as follows: drains from the house move through plastic pipes towards the septic tank chamber, where solid debris settles to the bottom of the tank. From the chamber, the wastewater flows into the soil, where it is further purified by natural filtration.

Autonomous septic tank with two reservoirs

This is a more voluminous sewage system for a private house - how to install it correctly? For this, a sewerage scheme is used for a private one-story house, in which a septic tank with two tanks operates.

1. The first tank in this scheme is designed for the dirty water to settle and be purified. Solid debris remains at the bottom, the top layer of liquid in the chamber is purified water, fats and household chemicals.
2. The second tank is designed for re-treatment of waste water. In it, the bottom layer is fats and chemicals. The water in the second chamber is further purified by approximately 60-65%.

When the second chamber overflows, water begins to overflow into the ground. This is an acceptable norm, since after cleaning in the second chamber, the water has normative indicators for environmental friendliness. An autonomous sewage system in a private house, the diagram of which is given above, provides a higher degree of wastewater treatment and the safety of people living in the house. This scheme works great in a house with 5-8 residents living in it.

Advantages of a two-chamber septic tank:

1. Cleaner outlet water.
2. The tanks do not corrode.
3. The service life of such a cleaning scheme is ≥ 50 years.
4. You can assemble and run a septic tank with two treatment chambers yourself.

Disadvantage:

It is necessary to periodically and regularly clean the walls of the chambers from siltation. When carrying out such an operation, it is not recommended to remove all sludge, since it contains biobacteria that decompose organic matter.

Biofiltration septic tank

Self-installation of a sewage system in a private house may involve the use of a biofilter. This is a reservoir with expanded clay, which is inert inherently. Expanded clay acts as a biological filter for wastewater treatment:

1. The effluents alternately flow through the chambers, where they are cleaned, after which they enter the biofilter covered with expanded clay.
2. Aerobacteria in the biofilter decompose and oxidize the organic matter present in the wastewater.
3. After complete purification, industrial water enters the drainage system.

Benefits:

1. High level of cleaning, reduction of drainage field and autonomy of work.
2. Dirt, debris, grease and chemicals are removed from almost everything. As a result, the outlet is clean industrial water, suitable for irrigation or other household work in the yard.

Disadvantages:

1. Constant addition of biobacteria, high construction cost.
2. The need to clean the biological filter and pump out excess effluent with sewage equipment.

The costs of self-arrangement of the sewage system in your home

The cost of plastic tanks is available to any private household owner:

Product marking	Price in rubles at the beginning of 2019
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀110 mm	100
Plastic pipe 100 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	190
Plastic pipe 200 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	350
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	500
Plastic pipe 400 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	690
Plastic pipe 600 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	1000
Plastic pipe 15 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	40
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	50
Plastic pipe 100 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	60
Plastic pipe 150 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	90
Plastic pipe 200 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	100
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	140
Clamp ⌀ 110 mm	45
Clamp ⌀ 50 mm	30
Elbow ⌀ 110/450 mm	110
Elbow ⌀ 50/450 mm	30
Tee ⌀ 110 mm	200
Tee ⌀ 50 mm	40
Plug ⌀ 110 mm	80

Compared with pipes and steel elements, plastic products are simpler and easier to install.

1. When purchasing PVC pipes and parts, you should check for the presence of rubber gaskets in the sockets.
2. Do not connect the waste pipe to the ventilation system.
3. If the internal sewerage system is installed according to the standard scheme (one bathroom, sink and sink, washing machine, shower), then there is no need to equip a fan pipe.
Autonomous sewerage-septic tank for a private house

All decisions on the assembly of the sewerage system must be thought out, calculations carried out and the scheme is reflected on paper. Therefore, when laying the sewerage system on your own, choose an option that will take into account all the nuances of the architecture and geometry of your home. If you are unsure of your knowledge and experience, contact the professionals. It is better to spend more money on correct installation than fixing mistakes, which will cost more.

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master for interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

First of all, it should be said that the depth of the sewerage system according to SNIP 2.04.03-85 regulates this parameter, although not quite clearly, but that's not all. The fact is that the Code of Practice captures only the minimum depth, that is, at the beginning of the pipeline, which goes downhill along its entire length. I want to tell you about such nuances, which have been worked out from personal experience, and also invite you to watch the video in this article.

Factors affecting paving depth

Factor one

So, the depth of the sewer pipes according to SNIP 2.04.03-85 is regulated by clause 4.8:

• the first rule states that during installation one should rely on the experience of already existing sewer pipelines networks, which has been developed in a given area;
• if there is no such practice, then a tray for pipes with a diameter of up to 500 mm, at least 30 cm, and with a larger diameter - half a meter, and so on (see the photo excerpt above);
• but the clearest definition is laid there in accordance with the depth of soil freezing to zero, and this is already the heat engineering calculations of calculations from local meteorological stations.

In the private sector, such calculations are unlikely to be useful to you, with the exception of the experience gained, which is indicated by the instruction from SNiP 2.04.03-85 paragraph 4.8. therefore, you should carefully examine two other factors that represent the reality.

Second factor

The second, very important factor, without which the sewage system will not take place at all, is the slope of the pipeline:

• we are not talking about the forced withdrawal of wastewater - this method is used only at enterprises and only in the case of specialized production, which means that we need the optimal slope of the pipeline;
• in the private sector, as a rule, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is used, where a slope of 20 mm / 1 meter is needed;
• occasionally a diameter of 50 mm is used (for drains without solid deposits, for example, for a shower or a bath) - there you need 30 mm / 1 Mpog;
• therefore, the depth of the pipeline will increase with each running meter by 20-30 mm and at the end it may turn out to be half a meter or even a meter deeper than at the beginning;

• in addition, the depth of laying waste pipes can be adjusted, that is, this is not an initial exit, but an increase in the immersion on each of the tanks;
• for example, if at the foundation the immersion is 80 cm, and at the entrance to the tank after 5 m 90 cm, then at the exit from the tank it will be necessary to withstand at least 115 cm between the top of the drain and the soil level;
• this 15 cm drop allows the liquid to settle in each of the chambers, that is, in order for the level in the tank to rise to the drain level, it takes time, which is enough to settle. In the next cell, the same thing happens;
• therefore, for a septic tank, you will have to take into account not only the depth of the pipeline, but also the depth of the tanks, where the bottom filter of the latter must be at least 50 cm below the outlet of the drain pipe.

The third factor

The conditions of the third factor are in relation to the terrain:

• in SNiP 2.04.03-85, clause 4.8 there is a proposal that talks about the experience of sewer pipelines in a given area, and so, this concerns the experience of your neighbors in the area;
• the fact is that the depth of laying the sewer pipe may depend on the type of soil in your yard and it is quite natural that this indicator is identical for your neighbors;
• the wetter the soil, the deeper it freezes during frosts, but literally half a kilometer from your house the condition of the soil may be different, therefore, consider what you see in your yard and in your neighbor's yard;
• if the neighbors do not have a sewage system, then you will have to determine yourself, so for this you can ask a specialist for advice or at least find out the depth of freezing from the map or table below.

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
Saint Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Table of soil freezing up to 0⁰C in Russia

Of course, this factor can be corrected by laying the sewer system closer to the surface, if at the same time you insulate it properly.

I want to note that all these calculations, which I gave above, have nothing to do with storm sewers, since it is designed exclusively for freezing temperatures, that is, it removes rainwater and water from melted snow. Therefore, such structures are laid at the very surface, that is, the drain is at the same time a drain pipe.

The main danger here is not, but clogging of the gutter with leaves, small branches or washed away soil.

Mandatory requirements for the installation of a drainage pipeline

in the photo: the stages of styling: 1 - pour the pillow; 2 - we lay the pipe; 3 - cover it with sand

The installation of any underground pipeline is due to the presence of a cushion - on large sewage routes, a gutter is mounted for this purpose, but at the household level, a sand cushion is poured into the trench, at least 20-30 mm thick. Sand allows the pipe to distribute the load from the mass of soil, which is sprinkled with sewage, over the entire area.

The second step is to lay the line in compliance with the slope (I mentioned this above), and after that the pipe is sprinkled with sand, at least 30-50 mm.

Before digging a trench, you need to tamp the sand or wait a few days for it to settle, but you can go the other way. Personally, in order to speed up this process, I simply water the sand abundantly with water, and it immediately sits down to the required state.

After that, you can immediately pour the soil - the sand will not only protect PVC from soil deformation during subsidence, but also from various sharp stones, glass and metal objects that are sure to be found in the soil.

If you do not hide the sewer line to the proper depth (up to 0⁰C), then it may freeze, but it is not always possible to lay pipes in such deep trenches, especially there. Where the level of freezing reaches 2m or more.

Therefore, in order not to dig too far into the ground, you can use heaters, but their price is sometimes too high (extruded polystyrene foam or heating cable, which is even more expensive) and I get by with ordinary mineral wool.

But if the mineral wool is without waterproofing, then it will break down very quickly and the effect of thermal insulation will decrease to almost zero, therefore, it is better to purchase it with a one-sided foil coating. In an extreme case, after you wrap the pipe with cotton wool with your own hands, wrap dense polyethylene over it or, in extreme cases, at least roofing material, securing it all with wire.

Conclusion

So, let's summarize, on which the depth of the sewerage depends. Firstly, you will have to determine the freezing point of the soil to 0⁰C or navigate through the experience of ready-made gaskets, and, secondly, you can insulate the sewer pipeline. If you still have questions on this topic, then ask them by writing down your posts.

July 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

7023 0 0

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the main JV requirements related to private construction. I will allow myself to comment on some points based on my own experience:

• Closed gravity pipelines should be used to drain wastewater into the general sewerage system;

Sometimes the terrain necessitates the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows for a limited time to operate the sewerage system in the absence of power supply.

• The pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed using the fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows for some bending (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains its elasticity even at subzero temperatures, so there is no need to fear cracks and pipe breakdowns.

• The slope of the spacer must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluent will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
This will increase the likelihood of blockages.

• To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is the crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if a blockage occurs.
A rope or wire, resting against the opposite wall of the straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two bathtubs on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique crosspiece;

This is necessary so that when water is discharged from one bath, water does not flow into another.
With a leaky connection of the bath tubing, overflow of the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, the pipes are best left accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, which has risen up between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

In a wooden floor, polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• Embedding of pipes into the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens is not allowed;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (drain pipes) that are connected to the upper points of the system. The fan pipe is led out 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its drain part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit traction in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-carried debris and prevent precipitation from entering it in a downpour.
For the owners of cesspools who pay for the removal of waste, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of an intra-house sewage system should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at bends;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest well of the yard sewage system (for example, when located in the basement or basement floor), the corresponding section of the sewage system is equipped with a sewer valve or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals to prevent sewage gases from entering the premises;

The joints of the elbows and siphons with the sewer are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be completed with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, showers, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewer is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewerage system, including two baths in the same room, subject to a simultaneous salvo discharge.

Noise

The sound of water pouring in pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay the horizontal sections of the sewer in the underground, basement or behind false walls.... Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the dwelling, close it with a box made of gypsum board or wall panels... It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewage system. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own system of diameters, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riserequipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to properly assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic rules for installation:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of permanent blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the step between the clamps, the unsecured sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such an attachment will not allow them to shift under their own weight.

The sockets of pipes and fittings should be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe for which bulky debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has got into it can catch.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to debur the inside of the pipe and chamfer the outside. Burrs will pick up sewage-borne hair, tissue fibers and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate assembly of the joint.

If the pipe is forced into the socket, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use machine oil and other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With a hidden gasket (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble the connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the bell to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewage system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant traction in it. In addition, all sockets of plumbing fixtures were carefully sealed.

It was not so: after some time, a characteristic smell of sewage appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushed in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum that arises in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was predictably solved by installing a funnel at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. So, in Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the soil surface. Laying pipes that provide drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewage to the septic tank along the facade: I did not want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in a warm climatic zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe heats up on which the cable is fixed.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. By reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces off-target heat loss;
• Since the aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of the cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that it is necessary to leave the end sleeve and heat shrinkage between the cable and the cold end outside the container with drains.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat-shrinkable tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of the sewage system is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

When laying sewer pipes from a house to a septic tank (cesspool), many parameters are taken into account: diameter, total length of the line, angle of inclination. In case of an error in the calculations, so-called ice plugs can form in winter. In this case, the correct operation of the sewage system in a private house will stop. The layout and depth of the sewer pipes are the main factors for correct installation.

Rules for laying sewer pipes

A site plan is preliminarily drawn up with the location of houses, outbuildings, greenhouses and a vegetable garden on it. A deep purification septic tank should be located at least 5 meters from the house, 15 from a source of drinking water and 2 meters from the border of the site. After choosing its location, you can start designing the sewer pipeline.

The basic rules for the arrangement are set out in SNiP 3.05.04-85. But it is recommended to take only part of the recommendations from it, since the document was developed without taking into account the use of modern polymer pipes:

• First, the installation of a septic tank or the arrangement of a cesspool is performed. The installation depth is regulated by the manufacturer. The upper part with the inspection hatch must remain on the surface.
• The angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For self-laying, you can use a value of 20 mm for a section of 110 mm. The higher the last value, the less the slope.
• There should be a minimum of turning elements in the sewage system. Due to increased air resistance and friction, runoff and waste can remain in these areas, subsequently creating a blockage.

Depth calculation for septic tanks and cesspools

Despite the fact that no household waste or sewage remains in the external pipeline, the effect of negative temperatures can negatively affect the operation of the sewage system. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the line. It depends on several factors.

Laying depth calculation rules:

• The smallest pipeline depth will be at the foundation of the house - at the junction of the internal and external sewerage systems. It should be higher than the level of soil freezing.
• Height of rise of groundwater. They create pressure on the pipeline and artificially reduce the depth during floods or heavy snowmelt.
• Soil type. Not all areas have the ability to make a trench of the required depth. This is especially true for rock-dominated soil. The solution to the problem is pipeline insulation.

Before laying pipes, you need to properly equip the trench. After its formation, a number of actions should be performed.

A sand cushion is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted. Then the base for the pipe is formed from the rubble layer. Its slope and location relative to the septic tank are checked. The final backfill is done after checking the tightness of the line. The degree of soil pressure on the pipe surface is taken into account.

Frost protection

Insulation of an external sewage system may be the only alternative if it is impossible to make a trench of the required depth. For this, you can use various materials, it is important that they do not collapse under the influence of moisture or temperature extremes.

The following materials can be used as insulation:

• Foam or extruded polystyrene foam shell. They are characterized by ease of installation, affordable cost, do not allow moisture to pass through.
• Basalt wool. You can use forms in the form of a shell or a sheet version of the insulation. Installation of a waterproof film is mandatory, since the cotton wool allows water to pass through.
• Foamed polyethylene. It has good thermal insulation properties, but has insufficient thickness. It can be used to form an additional protective layer.

Alternatively, install a resistive heating cable. But due to the large diameter of the pipeline, a powerful model will be required, which is not always feasible and may not fit the budget.