Installation technology for metal-plastic pipes. How to work with metal-plastic pipes: an overview of connection methods and bending methods Installation of a water supply system from metal-plastic pipes

Plumbing made of metal-plastic pipes is the most common type of water supply "wiring" in houses and apartments. They have firmly established themselves in this market segment. And there are good reasons for that.

On this page we will describe all the pros and cons of such a water supply system, as well as describe in detail how to install metal-plastic pipes with our own hands, how to connect them using fittings, etc.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal-plastic plumbing

There are several objective indicators that allow metal-plastic pipes to plug their competitors in the belt when arranging a water supply system in an apartment or house:

Ease of installation. With careful work, they can be done by anyone without any preparation. In practice, this is a semblance of a constructor, the assembly of which does not require expensive tools and special skills.
Reliability. The 50-year guarantee is proof of this. But note that this applies to pipes, not their connections.
Price. One thing can be said: "Cheaper, only for nothing." Some kind of competition in this parameter can be made by polypropylene pipes, but otherwise they lose.

Based on the foregoing, the water supply system on metal-plastic pipes is reliable, inexpensive, and you can assemble it yourself. Naturally, connection to the central system is the prerogative of professionals.

Sadly, but each barrel of honey has its own fly in the ointment... In the case of a metal-plastic plumbing, these are fittings.

A fitting is a device with which you can:

In our case, we are talking about metal-plastic pipes. If the fitting has the same diameter at both ends, then it is straight; and if different, then transitional.

But these are only their varieties for their intended purpose, but according to the method of fixation, all fittings are divided into crimp and press fittings.

Compression fittings. In another way, they are called ring, or serviced. In such, the fixation is carried out due to the conical shape, the inner surface, the crimp nut, which, when screwed, compresses the trim ring. These connections can be disassembled and require periodic maintenance. Usually once a year, compression fittings on reinforced-plastic pipes, through which flows hot water, should be checked and, if necessary, slightly tightened. The reason for their weakening is the thermal deformation from hot water. For their installation, two gas (adjustable) wrenches are required.
Press fittings. Or maintenance-free, fixed on the pipe by pressing in a special crimping sleeve. The work is done with press tongs. They can be manual or electric. The first ones cost from 4 thousand rubles, the second from 25 thousand rubles. The connection turns out to be one-piece, but with a guarantee against leaks, regardless of the water temperature. Most often, press fittings are used in connections that will be walled up in walls, or with difficult access after repair.

The reliability and quality of the connections depend on the scrupulousness of the instructions. But for the price ... Although press fittings are cheaper than crimp fittings, their total cost for equipping a water supply system in an apartment is equal to the cost of metal-plastic pipes.

We plan a water supply system "on paper"

The most important and paramount is the water supply plan. If you have never done this, then you can compose it from scratch without much difficulty, although this idea is rather painstaking. But it all starts from the consumer.

It is necessary to designate the places where the cranes will be. This is a kitchen and a bathroom. With proper construction, they are usually located side by side, which facilitates and significantly reduces the cost of organizing the water supply system. Ideally, if they are in adjacent rooms, only one pipe is required, from which branches will go through a tee to different rooms.
The place where water enters the house is indicated. There are only two options: central water supply or a private well (well). Depending on this, additional hardware may be required. In particular, when using water from a well, it is necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator (above the level of consumers). From it, water will flow by gravity into the house. Such a system is preferable because it does not require the pump to be constantly switched on. The accumulator does not have to be metal. It can be poured out of concrete. And already in the house is mounted:
Filter system (equipment depending on water quality).
Boiler.

Accordingly, if water enters the house from the central water supply system, then only controlling devices will need to be installed at the entrance to meter consumption.

This is a schematic diagram. It is not permissible to give recommendations on the filtration system without knowing the quality of the water. You should also apply to the water heating system. Depending on the conditions, the boiler can be electric or gas. The use of a water heater for liquid or solid fuels is not economical and is associated with certain difficulties. Especially in the summer.

Required tools and materials

From the cranes, a string is unwound along the wall. In places of bending or branching, carnations are hammered, and the direction changes. Accordingly, from the tees, there will already be two (or three) strings. Having marked out the entire system in this way, it is necessary to draw its location on the wall. You can use chalk or water emulsion.

Only after that, the twine must be removed and its length measured. Additionally, calculate the number of fittings and their types.

IMPORTANT: increase the resulting pipe footage by 10%. This is a common practice.

Regarding the choice of the pipe diameter, there is already an established opinion. For almost all residential buildings and apartments, there is more than enough metal-plastic pipe ᴓ16 mm. It provides feed up to 3 m 3 / hour. And most water meters are not designed for higher flow rates. And why more?

Choosing a manufacturer of reinforced plastic pipes is perhaps the most difficult task. Fakes are often found on the market. Purchase a pipe in a reputable store or from trusted suppliers. We recommend refraining from purchasing metal-plastic pipes from Chinese manufacturers. Bad reviews are all too common. The best quality metal-plastic pipes are produced in Belgium ( Henco), Germany ( Frankische and Sanha).

What tools are required:

Cutter for a metal-plastic pipe (from 250 rubles).
Caliber with countersink (from 200 rubles).
Conductor (from 500 rubles).
Press tongs (from 4000 rubles, but can be rented).
Two gas (or adjustable) wrenches.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.

How to work with the tool

Gauge, restores the shape of the pipe after cutting, and the countersink removes the chamfer and removes the burrs. If the caliber is without a countersink, then its work can be done with fine sandpaper.

The jig is used to bend the metal-plastic pipe. It can be external and internal. In some cases, using the internal is more convenient, because it does not slip in your hands. But it is not always possible, because the bend can be far from the end of the pipe. Therefore, we recommend staying with an external conductor.

Crimp jaws are required if you will be using maintenance-free fittings. We, on the basis of 16 years of experience, recommend press fittings. And there is only one reason. Most of the tenants forget to service the crimp fittings after a year. This leads to leaks. But the choice is yours.

Consumables will require: self-tapping screws, fasteners for metal-plastic pipes, FUM tape.

Installation process of metal-plastic pipes

It is necessary to start the installation of a metal-plastic water supply system from the source to the consumer (to the taps). Unwind a piece of pipe from the roll to the nearest fitting, and cut it off with a knife. Calibrate, deburr and chamfer. Then push the pipe into the fitting as far as it will go. Press fittings have special holes for depth control. The edge of the metal-plastic pipe should be visible in them. Then insert the fitting into the pliers and crimp the connection.

Compression fittings are secured with nuts and rings supplied

It is quite simple to work with the press tongs with your own hands, since you will not be able to insert the fitting there "crookedly".

All pressing tongs have replaceable jaws for pipes of different diameters. Make no mistake when choosing sponges.

The installation process for compression fittings is slightly different. A nut is first put on the prepared pipe cut, then a trim ring, and after that, the pipe is inserted into the body of the fitting itself. Before tightening the nut, we strongly recommend to rewind with FUM tape. It only takes two to three turns. It is necessary to start from the edge of the thread and carry out the winding, holding the tape tightly. After that, moisten the threads with sunflower oil. This technique will protect against leaks!

The nut is first tightened by hand until it stops. And only then, holding the fitting with one gas wrench, tighten the clamping nut with the other. You should not pull with all your might, but a little effort is needed.

Installation with press tongs

The metal-plastic pipe should be fixed to the wall every meter. Special fasteners through a self-tapping screw are fixed in the surface, and a pipe is inserted into them.

In those places where it is permissible, the pipe can be bent using a conductor. To do this, put a conductor on the pipe, bring it to the right place, and carefully, holding the product with your hands, at an equidistant distance from the target place, bend the pipe in the desired plane. Considering that the bending radius of a metal-plastic pipe is equal to its 8 diameters, this approach is not always advisable.

Checking, eliminating leaks

Having installed the plastic pipes, connect them to the tap using the supplied hoses. Then go through the entire route again, and visually check the integrity of the assembly.

Pay attention to tees and splitters. Sometimes, carried away by one branch, the installer forgets about fixing the pipe in another.

Open the taps at the end of the plumbing (in the kitchen and bathroom). And only after that, slowly, in order to avoid a possible water hammer, open the water supply valve to the system. It is most convenient to perform this stage with a partner. He must control the exit of water at the end point. As soon as the water has gone, to flush the pipes, let it drain for 2-3 minutes. Then close the outlet taps, this will increase the pressure in the system, and go all the way through the pipe. Check all connections. When in doubt, rub a tissue (or toilet paper) over the surface of the fitting joints. Do not confuse condensation water with leakage!

We guarantee that if you have completed the work according to our recommendations, then 99.9% will not have any leaks. If you have a legitimate concern about a connection, then tighten it slightly.

Do-it-yourself plumbing from metal-plastic pipes Video

Detailed instructions for the installation of metal-plastic pipes and their connection with fittings. All about how to assemble a water supply system in an apartment or house with your own hands with Video

How to properly do the installation of metal-plastic pipes with your own hands

In the life of a modern person, an important place is occupied by the transfer of various substances, in particular water, over a distance, using supply systems - pipelines, the most important and longest part of which are pipes.

Thanks to a wide range of products, today every homeowner has the opportunity to independently assemble a plumbing system using products from any suitable material. This article will tell you about the installation of metal-plastic pipes for do-it-yourself water supply, the characteristics and advantages of such products.

The device of pipes made of metal-plastic and their advantages

Products of this type consist of three main layers and two layers, from the inside to the outside:

Molecularly compacted or cross-linked polyethylene layer.
An adhesive layer between the inner layer and the aluminum foil.
Aluminum layer.
A layer of adhesive that connects the aluminum and the outer layer of the polymer substance.
Outer plastic layer.

The advantages of products made from this material:

relatively small, compared to metal elements, weight, greatly facilitating all maintenance operations, scheduled or unscheduled repairs, dismantling and installation of metal-plastic pipes;
no threat of corrosion, since the inner and outer layers of products are made of plastic that does not collapse under the influence of water;
due to reinforcement with aluminum, the coefficient of linear expansion is very low;
a consequence of the previous paragraph is the ability not to maintain ideal accuracy during calculations and preparation of products for installation.

Among the disadvantages of metal-plastic pipes are the following;

their mechanical strength and resistance to overloads are still less than that of metal elements;
the upper thresholds for operating temperature and pressure are also not so high.

A few words about the wiring of the plumbing system

Do-it-yourself wiring of metal-plastic pipes is generally simple; the process begins with the installation of ball valves on the riser. At this stage, it is necessary to carefully select the fittings, giving preference to high-quality products suitable for use at operating pressures of at least 60 atm. and temperatures of about 150 ° C.

It is clear that, since no one can vouch for the quality of Chinese products and they can fail at any time, it is best to avoid purchasing them, opting for more expensive but reliable options.

This is all the more important when you consider that it is through ball valves that, in the event of a leak, the systems block the flow of water into the apartment.

Having chosen good taps and installing them, you can continue to install a plumbing from metal-plastic pipes with your own hands.

The following preparatory stages of the arrangement of the water supply system:

Installation of a filter for deep cleaning and a water meter.
Installation of a filter for fine cleaning.
Introduction to the pressure reducer diagram.
Installation of a collector, from which metal pipes will subsequently be diverted, connected in various ways and subsequently connected to plumbing fixtures.

Despite the fact that the internal surface of cross-linked polyethylene is sufficiently resistant to the action of small abrasive particles, installation of cleaning filters in a system with metal-plastic pipes is necessary: a large amount of sand, metal particles or pieces of scale can damage not only the pipeline, but also the output devices.

The collector must be installed in order to ensure the same intensity of moisture supply from the common riser to all plumbing elements - sinks, washing machine and toilet.

Typically, the manifold has two to four outputs. If there are more devices in the house that require fluid supply, it is possible to choose collectors with the appropriate number of outlets.

Fittings for metal-plastic products

The most important question that should be clarified to a home craftsman is how to properly mount metal-plastic pipes. Usually, for this purpose, special connecting elements are used - fittings.

They are of two types:

Press fittings (mounted by pressing).
Screw (compression type).

Features of installation with compression fittings

These products are characterized by:

the strength of the connection is ensured by the pressure of the screwed nut on the unclosed compression ring;
no need to look for special tools for connecting pipes: just two wrenches are enough, with one of which they hold the installation site, and the other tighten the crimp nut;
the need to use as few intermediate connections as possible when laying metal-plastic pipes with your own hands;
the possibility of a gradual weakening of the strength of the connection, as a result of which it is necessary from time to time to pull the crimp nuts; Because of this, it is not recommended to lay pipes installed in this way in walls or floors.

The latter problem can be avoided by replacing crimps with press fittings.

Features of installation using press fittings

Such products are more reliable and durable (service life - at least 50 years), withstand operating pressures up to 10 bar and ensure ease of pipeline installation.

The only drawback is the need to use a special press machine, manual or hydraulic with a microprocessor.

Cut a piece of pipe to the desired length.
The chamfer is removed from the ends and the diameter of the product is adjusted.
A sleeve made of stainless steel is put on the end.
Insert the prepared part of the pipe with the fitting until it stops.
By grabbing the press machine, they take the sleeve and squeeze it, bringing the press handles together.

To make the connection durable, you should adhere to the following rules:

pipes do not tolerate ultraviolet rays and mechanical damage, therefore, it is possible to lay them in an open way only where these factors are absent (read also: “How metal-plastic pipes are assembled - a step-by-step guide for making connections”);
with hidden laying, it is necessary to provide access to the fittings, providing for various windows and removable panels during installation;
when it is necessary to pass pipes through the structures of the house, choose a sleeve with a diameter larger by 5-10 mm of a similar external parameter of the pipe. A non-combustible material is introduced into the gap, which, when squeezed, contributes to the longitudinal advance of the pipe;
when mounting products on walls, you should use the suspensions and supports supplied by the same manufacturer, and insulate the metal parts of the fasteners with a soft material;
damage to the surface of the product must not be allowed.

If you follow these tips, assembling the water supply system will be simple and not particularly costly.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes: do-it-yourself water supply, how to install correctly, laying, water supply wiring, installation

DIY installation of metal-plastic pipes

When performing pipelines of any type of water supply, today they successfully use the installation of metal-plastic pipes with their own hands.

Pipes made of metal-plastic, due to their design, have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other types of similar products.

Assembly of metal-plastic pipeline

Advantages and device of pipes made of metal-plastic

Structurally, metal-plastic pipes have five layers:

The inner layer of the product is made of cross-linked or packed molecularly polyethylene;
A layer of glue that connects the aluminum layer and polyethylene;
Aluminum interlayer;
A layer of glue that connects the aluminum layer and the outer plastic layer;
A layer of plastic.

Reinforced-plastic pipes have certain advantages over similar products:

Reinforced-plastic pipes, due to the polymer layer, are highly resistant to corrosion.
Thanks to the aluminum layer, the products are elastic and retain their shape, whereby the installation of metal-plastic pipes of almost any complexity and configuration is possible.
Ideal accuracy is not required when calculating linear dimensions.

Features of the wiring of the water supply system

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes begins with the installation of ball valves on the riser. For installation, it is necessary to choose exclusively high-quality ball valves that are capable of operating at high operating pressure (within 60 atmospheres) and temperatures within 150 degrees.

Chinese fakes must be avoided, since a lot depends on the quality of the taps in the water supply system.

It is with a ball valve in a situation with the appearance of leaks that you can shut off the water supply to the apartment.

Ball valves for metal-plastic pipelines

Scheme of a metal-plastic pipeline system

Deep filter and water meter;
Fine filter;
Pressure reducer;
The collector, from which the distribution and installation of pipes made of metal-plastic to the plumbing fixtures are carried out.

Reinforced-plastic pipes are mounted in conjunction with filters to protect plumbing fixtures and the pipes themselves from small particles of sand, metals, scale present in the risers in significant quantities.

The installation of a collector is required to ensure a uniform supply of water to consuming elements - a sink, a toilet bowl, a washing machine, from a plumbing pipe. Typically, the collectors have 2, 3 or 4 outputs. In the event that the number of consuming devices is more than four, collectors are selected that have the required number of outputs.

Fittings for pipes made of metal-plastic

If you need to connect metal-plastic pipes - installation and direct connection is performed using fittings for metal-plastic pipes, which are of the following types:

Connection of pipes with compression fittings

Compression fitting diagram

Making connections with compression fittings:

In the case of a compression fitting, the connection is obtained due to the pressure arising in the process of tightening the nut on the open compression ring.
To make a compression connection, special tools for the installation of reinforced-plastic pipes are not required.

The connection is made using two wrenches: while one is tightening the nut, the other wrench is resisted.

If, when performing wiring, metal-plastic pipes are used, installation should be carried out to the consuming device from the collector with one whole "thread", avoiding unnecessary connections.
After a while, it may be necessary to pull through to maintain the tightness of the connection of the compression fittings.

But if you lay pipes with several fitting connections on the floor or close them with tiles, then performing this operation or dismantling metal-plastic pipes in case of such a need will become very difficult.

To avoid the periodic pulling of the fittings, you will have nothing left to do but to mount the metal-plastic pipes using press fittings.

Connection of metal-plastic pipes using press fittings

Press fittings are durable and strong (they are guaranteed for up to 50 years), they can withstand pressures up to 10 bar, and the laying of metal-plastic pipes made with their help is quick and easy.

Reinforced-plastic pipes with press fittings are installed using a special press machine. This tool for the installation of metal-plastic pipes is simple manual and microprocessor-based hydraulic.

Installation instructions for reinforced-plastic pipes with press fittings:

The pipe is cut with special scissors at right angles.
Using a reamer and a special calibration tool, the chamfer is removed and the pipe diameter is adjusted for subsequent installation.
A sleeve made of stainless steel is put on the end of the pipe.
The fitting is inserted into the fitting pipe until it stops.
The clamping of the press - manual or hydraulic - grips the sleeve.
The handles of the press are brought down to the stop.

Rules for laying a metal-plastic pipeline

A metal-plastic pipeline is laid in accordance with the following rules:

When installing a metal-plastic pipe, you need to be extremely careful, since pipes are very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical and thermal damage.

Open laying of such pipes is permissible only in places where the influence of these factors is absent.

The technology of installing metal-plastic pipes with a hidden gasket provides for the device of hatches and removable shields for access to compression-type fittings. Such hatches and shields should not have sharp protrusions.
Installation of pipes through building structures is carried out using sleeves with an inner diameter 5-10 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe.

The gap that is formed in this case is filled with a soft non-combustible material capable of ensuring the movement of the pipe in the longitudinal direction.

In the process of installing metal-plastic pipes for water supply or heating, at each stage, you need to remember about the inadmissibility of scratches or cuts on the surface of the pipes.

Example of a diagram of a domestic water supply system

When unpacking the coil with the pipe, do not use sharp objects. When marking the pipe, you must use only a pencil or marker.

The installation of a metal-plastic pipe is carried out by means of supports or hangers, with the help of which it is fastened to the wall.

Supports and hangers are offered by pipe manufacturers. Metal fasteners must be fitted with soft gaskets.

A self-made metal-plastic pipeline will last longer if the tips, instructions and recommendations given are followed in full.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: how to mount correctly, what tool is needed

192) DIY installation of metal-plastic pipes: a tool for installing a water supply system, how to install it correctly, assembly instructions, technology

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: connection technology + wiring examples

Modern materials for the arrangement of in-house highways made it possible to independently assemble water supply and heating systems. For example, do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes will allow you to arrange plumbing or sewer wiring. To work with such elements, no complex tools or special skills are required.

Features of metal-plastic products

Metal-plastic (metal-polymer pipes) are composite products for the production of which various types of materials are used. Such elements have an attractive appearance, good wear resistance, elasticity, strength.

Typically, a pipe consists of five layers. A strong polymer, usually cross-linked polyethylene, is used as a carrier base. It gives a smooth inner surface, protecting it from blockages, and also contributes to the strength of the product.

An adhesive is applied to the core, on which an aluminum foil stabilizing the pipe is attached (it also prevents the ingress of oxygen). The connection is secured by butt welding or overlapping.

In the fourth layer, glue is also applied, to which the outer coating is connected - white polyethylene, which provides the product with protection and gives it an aesthetic appearance.

Technical characteristics of pipes D 16-20 mm

Here are the data typical for metal-plastic pipes of common diameters (16 and 20 mm):

The wall thickness is 2 and 2.25 millimeters, respectively; the thickness of the aluminum layer is 0.2 and 0.24 mm.
One running meter weighs 115 and 170 grams and contains a volume of liquid equal to 1.113 and 0.201 liters.
The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.43 W / m K, the expansion index of the metal-plastic is 0.26x10 4 per 1 degree Celsius, the roughness coefficient is 0.07.
With a transverse rupture of the material, the strength factor is 2880 H.
The strength of the bond between the adhesive layer and the foil is 70 N / 10 sq. Mm, the strength factor of the aluminum welded layer is 57 H / sq. Mm. mm.
Reinforced-plastic pipes can operate even at +95 ° C, for a short time withstanding temperatures of + 110-130 ° C.
In the temperature range from 0 to +25 ° C, the system operates at a pressure of up to 25 bar, and at +95 ° C it can withstand a pressure of 10 bar.
The tightness and integrity of the metal-plastic pipe is violated at a load of 94 bar (at +20 ° C).

With proper installation and observance of the operating rules, metal polymer products can serve for 50 years or more.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal polymers

The advantages of such products include:

ease of installation: connections of various categories of metal-plastic pipes are quick and easy;
high heat resistance (water heated to 100 ° C can be transported);
reasonable price (metal-polymer pipes are cheaper than metal and most plastic analogs);
high indicators of strength, ring stiffness;
resistance to corrosion, aggressive environments;
reluctance to form deposits and blockages;
aesthetic appearance;
high throughput;
low thermal conductivity;
sufficient plasticity;
the possibility of easy repair;
durability.

The main disadvantage of such products lies in the fact that the metal and plastic that make up the pipes have different expansion rates. Regular temperature fluctuations of the agent in the pipes can lead to loosening of the fasteners, which leads to leaks in the structure.

To avoid this, experts advise, when making installation, always provide a certain margin at pipe joints. It will also be useful because metal-plastic systems do not withstand water hammer well.

Spheres of application of metal-plastic elements

Metal polymer pipes are widely used in the arrangement of individual houses, in industrial construction and agriculture.

The main areas of their use are:

transportation of liquids, gaseous agents;
laying of drainage systems, water supply systems, heating;
in structures that provide for the transfer of compressed air;
supply of heating components to radiators, underfloor heating;
installation of conditioning circuits;
protection and shielding of wires (primarily power wires);
construction of watering systems.

when organizing central heating systems with the proposed arrangement of elevator units;
in places with an assigned fire safety level "G";
with the expected supply of hot liquid in the pipeline with an operating pressure> 10 bar;
in rooms where it is planned to place sources of thermal radiation with a surface temperature of over 150 degrees C.

In addition, it is undesirable to use metal-polymer pipes in safety, signal, overflow, expansion circuits and in fire-fighting water pipelines.

Three main ways of routing pipes

The wiring of metal-plastic systems can be carried out by different methods, each of which is selected based on the feasibility and possibilities of further access to the system.

Option # 1: hidden

In this case, all pipes and connections are hidden in the depths of the wall under the finishing materials. Only fittings and taps for connecting plumbing devices are brought out.

When using this method of installation, the interior design is preserved, in addition, the masking of communications protects them from accidental damage.

This option has several drawbacks:

To lay channels for pipes, a complex and time-consuming process of chasing is required. After laying the communications, the surface has to be restored again.
This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls, where it is forbidden to carry out strobing by regulatory documents.
Quite high cost associated with additional work.

It is better to use this method when carrying out repairs in the bathroom. It is impractical to arrange a hidden gasket in an already decorated room, since this will require a complete dismantling of the wall covering (cladding, plaster).

Option # 2: open

If the pipes, for any reason, cannot be hidden in the wall, they can be laid along its surface. This option is more convenient for visual inspection of the joints, which allows, if necessary, to quickly clean the area or replace the component.

Open wiring can be used in rooms with already made repairs, since the installation will not harm the decoration of the walls. The advantages of this method include its ease and lower cost of work than when laying internal communications.

Option # 3: combined

In this case, the pipes are drawn along the surface of unfinished walls, after which they are closed with boxes or false panels. This is a rather complicated method, since it requires perfect fit into the interior of decorative elements, which can also be used as drywall, tiles and other materials.

Wiring diagrams for bathrooms and bathrooms

When plumbing work carried out in bathrooms and toilets, three layouts of metal-plastic pipes can be used. For private houses, the most rational is the use of a collector.

Efficient manifold system

A reliable and practical option, involving the connection of each object to the central pipe through a supply pair. This allows the tap to regulate or turn off the water supply to each specific plumbing fixture.

All control devices are located in a compact manifold, which is placed in a specially designated space (cabinet).

The supply pipes, which have a minimum of connections, do not require special control, which allows them to be laid in a hidden way. The disadvantage of this option is the rather high cost, since for each connection you will need to purchase a special shut-off valve. Since such a system is quite complex, work must be done carefully and carefully.

An important advantage: in the event of a failure of a separate item (washing machine, mixer), there is no need to completely disconnect the bathroom from the water supply - you just need to turn off the necessary shut-off valve.

Serial connection system

This option involves connecting each plumbing item to the main pipe using a separate tee. It is more suitable for bathrooms with a minimum number of objects (washing machine, shared mixer).

A sequential scheme can be implemented after completion of the finishing work in the room, using an open stacking system. The assembly process is quite simple: the pipe is laid from one object to another, at the same time the supply element is removed from the tee.

This option requires minimal financial costs. It should be noted that with a large number of points of liquid intake, the pressure may not be enough, and the system will function with difficulty or even completely fail.

Wiring system with feed-through sockets

The connection of plumbing devices is similar to the serial one, but sockets are used instead of tees. This scheme is usually used only in individual houses, since it requires long pipe laying, as well as the installation of an additional pump that will help to provide the required water pressure.

When performing connecting work with metal-plastic pipes, several important nuances should be taken into account:

When developing a design, it is desirable to provide for a minimum of connections.
It is important to use pipe and couplings made of the same material.
It is better to use thermal insulation for the pipeline to prevent condensation from settling.
It is necessary to provide free access to metering devices, filters, detachable connections.

Compliance with the rules will create a reliable system that can last for many years.

Sewerage piping

Work on the installation of metal-plastic sewer pipes has its own characteristics.

In this case, it is important to comply with the following requirements for the smooth drainage of waste water with the prevention of blockages:

Maintain a slope (0.02-0.03 of the integral length of the structure) towards the drain manifold.
It is forbidden to put bends at an angle of 90 degrees when installing structures.
The need to install special tees with removable covers (revisions) in areas in front of turns that are prone to blockage.
When installing the system in a hidden way, it is important to leave viewing windows opposite the revision.
When assembling the system, it is important to leave a margin for the thermal expansion of the product.

For the installation of the sewage system, it is necessary to use pipes, the diameter of which ensures easy permeability of wastewater. For toilets, it is recommended to use products with a diameter of at least 100 mm, for bathtubs and sinks - 50-75 mm is enough.

Rules for the installation of structures made of metal polymers

When laying metal-plastic systems, it is important to be guided by the following provisions:

When laying pipelines from this material hidden, it is important to provide for removable shields (hatches), devoid of sharp protrusions. They provide access to the compression fittings.
It is important to lay systems through building structures using sleeves, the inner diameter of which is 0.5-1 cm larger than the same parameter of the pipe. The gap that forms between the elements must be filled with a soft non-combustible material that ensures the movement of the pipe in the longitudinal direction.
When laying metal-plastic plumbing or heating systems, it is important not to damage the surface of the elements, including scratches or cuts. To unpack the bay, it is better to avoid sharp objects, and mark the structure with a pencil or marker.
Installation of the structure can be carried out using a support or suspension, which are usually found in the range of manufacturers of metal-polymer pipes. They help to anchor the products to the wall, with the metal parts being installed with spacers made of soft material.

All stages of operations must be carried out carefully and accurately, since metal-plastic elements are sensitive to ultraviolet light and mechanical damage. External installation of such structures is appropriate only in places where there are no such factors.

Pipe laying tools and materials

For laying metal-polymer systems, a minimum of devices and materials are required, but it is better to choose high-quality fixtures and pipes.

Pipe fittings

To create a structure made of metal-plastic, a very modest set of tools is enough: a pipe cutter, a simple pipe bender, an extension and spanner wrenches.

The pipe cutter is needed to separate the measured pipe sections from the coil. Since metal-plastic material is quite malleable, it can be cut with a hacksaw for metal or even with a sharp knife. However, the ideal perpendicularity of the lines, without which it is difficult to obtain a tight connection, can only be obtained using a special cutter.

Wrenches of different types are important for the installation and assembly of threaded connections on pipeline fittings. If absolutely necessary, you can do with one spanner wrench, however, for comfortable work, it is better to use two spanner wrenches and one adjustable spanner.

The gauge is an important tool for creating an accurate and tight connection between the pipe and the fitting: it allows you to center the cut plane and chamfer the inside of the product.

The bender allows you to change the configuration of the element, so you can save on corner fittings. It is especially important to have this tool if the design involves a large number of fillet fillets.

What materials will be required

To lay the pipeline, it is important to stock up on the following components:

pipes (coils, measured segments);
various types of fittings (bypasses, tees, corners), with the help of which individual sections of pipes are transformed into a single system;
fasteners - collapsible clamps and clips, with the help of which the metal-plastic structures are fixed on the supporting surfaces, most often on the wall.

It is important to select in advance all the necessary materials and tools, so that then all work can be carried out without hindrance.

Pipeline marking

Before starting work, it is important to think about how the pipes will be placed. When developing a circuit, it is desirable:

Draw lines of the pipeline directly on the walls of the room where it is planned to lay it, which contributes to the visualization of the structure.
As a starting point, use the place where the pipe is connected to the tap or radiator, which must already be installed before installation.
Minimize the number of tees and crosses that affect pressure stability and minimize the number of other fittings.
For corner laying of reinforced plastic pipes, you can use a pipe bender or corner fittings.
All connecting elements should be freely accessible, since fasteners on the threads need to be tightened periodically to avoid leaks.

The installation of the connecting elements must be carried out after the completion of the calculations and the marking of the structure.

Overview of fittings for a metal-plastic system

To prepare for work, it is important to cut the pipes into sections of the required length, while all cuts must be performed strictly at right angles. If the pipe is deformed during the cutting process, it must be leveled with a gauge (it will also help to remove the internal chamfer).

For the installation of the structure, various types of fasteners are used, we will dwell on them separately.

Option # 1: collet

Push-in fittings, consisting of a body, a ferrule, a rubber gasket, have a split design, so they can be used several times. The thread of the parts allows you to combine them with household appliances.

To connect the connecting elements, the nut and the ring must be put on the pipe in series. Insert the resulting structure into the fitting, tighten the nut. To make the pipe easier to pass into the connecting element, it is advisable to wet it.

Option # 2: compression

Parts widely used for connecting pipes, which can be called conditionally detachable. Before installation, it is important to ensure that there are O-rings and dielectric gaskets, which should be on the shank of the part.

For connection, a nut and a compression ring are put on the end of the pipe (if it is in the shape of a cone, then the process is carried out from the narrower side of the part). After that, the shank is inserted into the pipe (for this you need to apply some effort), while in order to seal the part, it is covered with tow, flax, and sealant.

The next step is to put on and tighten the union nut on the fitting body. It is convenient to do this using two keys: one of them fixes the part, the other tightens the nut.

This method is quite easy and does not require the use of special equipment, but it is undesirable to use it for hidden wiring, since it requires a connection check.

Option # 3: push fittings

Convenient connecting elements that do not require special tools for fastening. For installation, it is enough to insert the product into the connecting piece, while the end of the pipe must be visible in the inspection window.

Immediately upon completion of the installation, thanks to the switched on stream of water, the wedge of the fitting is pushed forward, forming a clamp that prevents leakage.

This method allows you to quickly and easily create the required structure, providing high-quality durable connections. Almost the only drawback of push fittings is their high cost.

Option # 4: press fittings

These elements are used to create permanent joints using pressing tongs or similar devices.

To connect, you need to calibrate the part by removing the fez from it, after which a sleeve is put on it and the fitting is inserted. The sleeve is gripped by pressing tongs, after which, by bringing the handle together, the part is firmly clamped.

Such an element can be used only once, however, the fasteners mounted with it are sufficiently tight and reliable, making them suitable for hidden wiring.

Installation of pipes from different types of materials

To connect the elements, one of which is made of metal, and the second is made of metal-plastic, special fittings are intended, one end of which is equipped with a thread, and the other with a socket.

For installation, the metal pipe must be threaded, wrapped with tow, lubricated with soap or silicone, and then put on the fitting by hand. After its other end is connected to the plastic element, the thread is completely screwed in with a wrench.

Assortment of fittings in different shapes

For ease of installation, the connecting elements can have different shapes. The most common are:

adapters for connecting pipes with different diameters;
tees providing branches from the central pipe;
corners for changing the direction of flow;
water sockets (installation bends);
crosses allowing different flow directions for 4 pipes.

Press fittings can have a special configuration (couplings, triangles, tees).

DIY installation technology for metal-plastic pipes

How to properly install plastic pipes with your own hands. What fittings are used when installing the pipeline. Wiring diagrams and assembly technology

Steel pipes are gradually being pushed out of the market: worthy competitors have appeared that cost less, are easier to install, and serve no less. For example, hot and cold water pipes and a heating system are made of metal-plastic. How to properly install metal-plastic pipes, what fittings when to use, how to use them to connect the segments into a single whole - all this will be discussed.

Types of fittings for metal-plastic pipes

The structure of metal-plastic pipes is such that it is impossible to weld or solder them. Therefore, all branches and some bends are made using fittings - special elements of various configurations - tees, adapters, corners, etc. With their help, a system of any configuration is assembled. The disadvantage of this technology is the high cost of fittings and the time that will have to be spent on their installation.

An approximate range of fittings for the installation of metal-plastic pipes with a press

The advantage of metal-plastic pipes is that they bend well. This allows fewer fittings to be used (they are expensive). In general, fittings for metal-plastic pipes are:

Crimp.
Press fittings (press).

Deciding what type of fittings to use is easy. Crimps are used for pipelines, to which there is always access - over time, connections need to be tightened. Press rooms can be walled up. That's the whole choice - you need to know what type of installation of metal-plastic pipes will be at a particular site.

Appearance of some swivel nut fittings - screw or crimp

A common disadvantage of metal-plastic pipes is that due to the design of the fittings, at each connection, the section of the pipeline is narrowed. If there are few connections and the route is short, this cannot have any consequences. Otherwise, either an increase in the cross-section of the pipeline or a pump with a higher power is required.

Preparing for installation

First of all, you need to draw the entire plumbing or heating system on a sheet of paper. At all branches, draw the fitting to be installed and sign it. So it is convenient to count them.

Tools

For work, in addition to the pipe and purchased fittings, you will need:

Pipe cutter. A device resembling a scissor. Provides the correct location of the cut - strictly perpendicular to the pipe surface. It is very important.

Calibrator (caliber) for multilayer pipes. In the process of cutting, the pipe is slightly flattened, and its edges are slightly bent inward. The calibrator is just needed in order to restore the shape and align the edges. Ideally, the edges are flared outward - this will make the connection more secure.

Countersink - a device for chamfering. A construction knife or a piece of sandpaper will also work. Calibrators often have a chamfering tab, so this tool can be dispensed with.
Fitting installation equipment:
Basically everything. Instead of a pipe cutter, you can use a saw with a metal blade, but you will need to make cuts strictly perpendicular to the surface. If you don't trust your eye, take a carpentry miter box.

Preparation procedure

For sale metal-plastic pipes of small diameter in coils. Before installation, a piece of the required length is cut from the coil. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the length that goes into the fitting. That is, you need to cut off a piece with a small margin - 1.2-1.5 cm.

The edges of the segment are inspected, if there are burrs (there are no burrs when cutting with a pipe cutter, this is a drawback when cutting with a saw), they are leveled. Then, using a beveller or a piece of sandpaper, they remove the chamfer - grind the plastic at an angle both inside the pipe and outside.

After that, they take the calibrator, with effort driving it into the pipe and turning it, align the geometry, at the same time straightening the edges "crushed" inward. After that, you can proceed with the installation of metal-plastic pipes and the installation of fittings.

How to align a piece of reinforced plastic pipe

As already mentioned, this type of pipes goes in coils, that is, they are twisted. Having cut off a piece, you straighten it a little with your hands, but how to achieve perfect evenness. This is important if the pipeline installation is open. The recipe is simple:

After the line is straight, you can calibrate its edges.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using compression fittings

Compression fittings are made up of several parts. The base is a cast body with a thread. There is also a ferrule that secures the piece of pipe to the fitting and a flare nut that secures the connection. An important detail is the O-ring, which ensures tightness.

This installation method is good because no special equipment is needed. The second plus is that the connection is collapsible and, if necessary, the fitting can be replaced. If it is out of order or it becomes necessary to change the configuration of the pipeline. And this is very convenient.

But there is also a drawback: from time to time, a leak occurs on the thread. The solution is simple - a half-turn tightening. But because of this, all connections must be accessible and cannot be walled up. The need to check is also annoying - it flowed, it did not flow. Not everyone likes it.

The range of fittings is wide: angles, tees, crosses, adapters (from one diameter to another). And all this from different angles, in different diameters.

The installation of metal-plastic pipes on compression fittings begins with the fact that the union nut and the compression ring are removed, the presence of a sealing gum is checked. After that, the assembly actually begins:

That's all, the process of mounting the compression (screw, threaded) fitting is over. There is only one caveat: if you pour antifreeze into the system, immediately change the gaskets. Those that come in the kit will flow with anti-freeze very quickly. Use paronite or Teflon. Only they can ensure tightness. In general, for systems with antifreeze, it is better to use press fittings. They definitely don't flow (if crimped correctly).

Installation of crimp (press or push) fittings on MP pipes

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using crimp fittings requires special pliers. They are manual and electric. Any are supplied with a set of pads for different diameters. Manual ones, of course, are cheaper. This equipment does not have to be purchased - you only need it once. It is much more profitable to rent.

The press fitting consists of two parts - the body itself and the crimp sleeve. Before connecting the reinforced-plastic pipes, the cut is prepared. It is the same as when using compression fittings, but only chamfer from the inside. Further, the procedure is as follows:
- A sleeve is put on the pipe.
- A gasket is placed on the fitting to prevent galvanic corrosion.
- The tube is put on the fitting - until it stops. There is a hole on the body of the fitting where the end of the pipe should be visible.
- Take pliers, in which suitable pads are installed (of the required diameter). Pliers are installed close to the edge of the fitting, connecting the press handles together and crimping the part. As a result, two concave stripes should be clearly visible on the sleeve. Their depth should be the same. Once crimped, the fittings can rotate around the pipe.
That's all, the installation of metal-plastic pipes using a press fitting is finished. Such a joint can withstand pressures up to 10 atm, which is sufficient for most systems. Not suitable only for heating systems of houses with a number of storeys. more than 16. Their pressure in the system may be higher.

How to bend a reinforced plastic pipe

Often the installation of metal-plastic pipes arises the need to bend the pipe. This can be done with your hands or with a spring. It is easier and faster to work with a spring, but you have to buy it (it is inexpensive). The spring is inserted into the pipe and bent in the required direction. The pipe follows the bend, the spring is removed. It is easy to bend metal-plastic pipes with a spring - no big efforts are required, the actions are easily controlled, it is possible to correct the result.

What is good about this method is that you will not be able to pinch the walls, which happens when you apply excessive efforts in the manual method. Also, it will not be possible to make a steeper bend (with a radius less than the minimum) and compress the walls at the bend, narrowing the flow area.

It is necessary to bend MP-pipes with your hands gradually. Grasp with your hands on both sides of the bend (at the same distance from the center of the future arc), with your thumbs supporting the pipe from below. In this position, you begin to lower the edges down, at the same time press up with your thumbs.

With this method, sometimes from excessive efforts, the pipe loses its geometry. This negatively affects its bandwidth. Such areas should not be placed in the water supply or heating system. To avoid such situations, the fold is heated. This can only be done with a construction hair dryer. You cannot use open fire. It is easy to bend the heated plastic. At the same time, it does not squeeze (the main thing is not to overdo it).

Another way to avoid deformation is to pour sand inside. It will not allow the walls to shrink.

How to attach to walls

When laying the pipeline open, it must be somehow fixed on the walls. Usually, special plastic clips are used for this. They are single - for laying one line of the pipeline. Typically used for plumbing. There are double ones - most often they are installed for heating - the supply and return in two-pipe systems run in parallel.

These clips are installed every meter (as often as possible). A hole is drilled in the wall for each, a dowel of the required type is inserted (selected depending on the type of material from which the walls are made). A heavy load is not expected, but plumbing and heating look much more attractive if everything is laid out exactly, like on a ruler.

Non-standard connections: with metal pipes, transition to another diameter

When replacing a water supply or heating, it is often necessary to combine metal and metal-plastic. Most often this happens at the outlet from the riser. In this case, the metal pipe is cut at a certain distance - 3-5 cm, a thread is cut on it. Next, a fitting with a union nut (collet) or an internal thread is screwed onto the thread. Further, the installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out according to the usual technology.

Some types of fittings that can be used when changing from metal to metal-plastic

The fitting is selected according to the diameter of the metal pipe, and the thread on the adapter must be internal - the external thread is cut on the pipe. This connection requires a seal. Wrap with flax and grease with packing paste or just use fum tape.

The connection of two pipes of different diameters is exactly the same. Only a suitable adapter fitting with nuts / nipples of the correct diameter is required.

An example of a water supply system wiring

First, we draw a plan for the wiring of the water supply system. This can be done on a piece of paper, indicating the necessary fittings. Please note that a threaded end fitting is required for the installation of taps. Taps are needed at the outlets for household appliances and plumbing fixtures, for heating radiators. This makes it possible to turn off devices without covering the entire system as a whole. The type of thread and its size are selected depending on the type of valve used.

Also, transition fittings are needed before and after the meter (water or heating depends on the type of system). Having drawn a detailed plan, put down dimensions in all areas. According to this drawing, consider how much and what you need. Fittings can be purchased strictly according to the list, and it is advisable to take pipes with some margin. Firstly, you could make a mistake when measuring, and secondly, in the absence of experience, you can spoil some piece - cut off less than required or compress it incorrectly, etc.

Agree on the possibility of an exchange

When buying everything you need, agree with the seller that, if necessary, you can change / return some fittings. Even professionals are often mistaken with them, and even those who decided to do the wiring of the water supply or heating system from metal-plastic with their own hands and even more so. No one will take the remains of the pipe back from you, and the fittings are easy. But keep your receipt for safeguarding.

When and how to get started

Arriving home, lay out the fittings, proceed: the installation of metal-plastic pipes in the summer can be done immediately, in the winter you need to wait some time (12 hours) until all the elements are heated to room temperature. Cut off one piece of pipe at a time to the desired length. It's a little longer, but you won't get confused that way. Further actions depending on the selected type of fittings.

After completing the installation of metal-plastic pipes, the pipeline is checked. If it is a water supply, it is enough to open the tap at the inlet. This should be done gradually and smoothly. The system will immediately begin to fill with water. If nothing has flowed anywhere, you did everything right. If any connections are leaking, they must either be redone - if press fittings were used, or tightened - if the assembly was on crimp connectors.

If a heating system was assembled from metal-plastic pipes, before starting it it is necessary to test it with increased pressure by pumping cold water into the system. If the test is successful, you can do a test run of the heating.

Related Videos

Once again, specialists from Valtek (Valtek), whose products are considered one of the best in this market, will explain how to correctly install metal-plastic pipes.

The assembly of communications from metal-plastic is one of the easiest ways to independently conduct water supply, heating, and sewerage in the house. The work does not require expensive devices, special skills, welding. Installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out using different types of fittings, the choice of which depends on the purpose of the pipeline and the conditions for its laying.

Metal-polymer pipelines are used for the installation of household water supply lines, for underfloor heating, in sewer and drainage systems.

The characteristics and properties of metal-plastic pipes depend on the peculiarities of their structure.

The wall of the pipe material is a multi-layer "cake" of five layers:

XLPE is an inner layer with a smooth surface and high resistance to high temperatures. The term "crosslinked" refers to the structural features of polyethylene at the molecular level. The organic polymer is subjected to additional action to connect the molecules by additional horizontal bonds. The firmware connects up to 85% of free molecules, giving polyethylene a high density, resistance to mechanical and temperature influences.
Adhesive layer.
A layer of aluminum foil.
Glue.
External, decorative and protective polyethylene layer.

Note! In terms of their structure, metal-plastic pipes resemble reinforced polypropylene pipes. However, this is a pipe material with completely different characteristics, since the polymer layer is of a different nature with different physical properties.

Positive properties of metal-polymer pipes:

Long lasting. With a special connection, they can be walled up into the wall.
They are flexible, which does not require additional fittings for bending.
Resistant to corrosion. The metal layer is reliably insulated with polyethylene from harmful influences.
They have a large flow capacity, do not "overgrow" deposits on the inner wall.
They have good thermal conductivity, high noise insulation.
Environmentally friendly.
They are lightweight.
Compatible with all types of pipelines.
Available for self-assembly.

Types of fittings for metal-plastic pipes

An approximate range of fittings for the installation of metal-plastic pipes with a press

The advantage of metal-plastic pipes is that they bend well. This allows fewer fittings to be used (they are expensive). In general, fittings for metal-plastic pipes are:

Crimp.
Press fittings (press).

Appearance of some swivel nut fittings - screw or crimp

Preparing for installation

First of all, you need to draw the entire plumbing or heating system on a sheet of paper. At all branches, draw the fitting to be installed and sign it. So it is convenient to count them.

Tools

For work, in addition to the pipe and purchased fittings, you will need:

Pipe cutter. A device resembling a scissor. Provides the correct location of the cut - strictly perpendicular to the pipe surface. It is very important.

This tool is used to cut metal-plastic (and not only) pipes

Calibrator types

Countersink - a device for chamfering. A construction knife or a piece of sandpaper will also work. Calibrators often have a chamfering tab, so this tool can be dispensed with.
Fitting installation equipment:
Basically everything. Instead of a pipe cutter, you can use a saw with a metal blade, but you will need to make cuts strictly perpendicular to the surface. If you don't trust your eye, take a carpentry miter box.

Preparation procedure

For sale metal-plastic pipes of small diameter in coils. Before installation, a piece of the required length is cut from the coil. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the length that goes into the fitting. That is, you need to cut off a piece with a small margin - 1.2-1.5 cm.

The edges of the segment are inspected, if there are burrs (there are no burrs when cutting with a pipe cutter, this is a drawback when cutting with a saw), they are leveled. Then, using a beveller or a piece of sandpaper, they remove the chamfer - grind the plastic at an angle both inside the pipe and outside.

Cut, calibrate, chamfer

After that, they take the calibrator, with effort driving it into the pipe and turning it, align the geometry, at the same time straightening the edges "crushed" inward. After that, you can proceed with the installation of metal-plastic pipes and the installation of fittings.

How to align a piece of reinforced plastic pipe

As already mentioned, this type of pipes goes in coils, that is, they are twisted. Having cut off a piece, you straighten it a little with your hands, but how to achieve perfect evenness. This is important if the pipeline installation is open. The recipe is simple:

After the line is straight, you can calibrate its edges.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using compression fittings

Compression fittings are made up of several parts. The base is a cast body with a thread. There is also a ferrule that secures the piece of pipe to the fitting and a flare nut that secures the connection. An important detail is the O-ring, which ensures tightness.

This installation method is good because no special equipment is needed. The second plus is that the connection is collapsible and, if necessary, the fitting can be replaced. If it is out of order or it becomes necessary to change the configuration of the pipeline. And this is very convenient.

But there is also a drawback: from time to time, a leak occurs on the thread. The solution is simple - a half-turn tightening. But because of this, all connections must be accessible and cannot be walled up. The need to check is also annoying - it flowed, it did not flow. Not everyone likes it.

This is what compression fittings look like.

The range of fittings is wide: angles, tees, crosses, adapters (from one diameter to another). And all this from different angles, in different diameters.

The installation of metal-plastic pipes on compression fittings begins with the fact that the union nut and the compression ring are removed, the presence of a sealing gum is checked. After that, the assembly actually begins:

That's all, the process of mounting the compression (screw, threaded) fitting is over. There is only one caveat: if you pour antifreeze into the system, immediately change the gaskets. Those that come in the kit will flow with anti-freeze very quickly. Use paronite or Teflon. Only they can ensure tightness. In general, for systems with antifreeze, it is better to use press fittings. They definitely don't flow (if crimped correctly).

Installation of crimp (press or push) fittings on MP pipes

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using crimp fittings requires special pliers. They are manual and electric. Any are supplied with a set of pads for different diameters. Manual ones, of course, are cheaper. This equipment does not have to be purchased - you only need it once. It is much more profitable to rent.

Press fitting for MP pipes

The press fitting consists of two parts - the body itself and the crimp sleeve. Before connecting the reinforced-plastic pipes, the cut is prepared. It is the same as when using compression fittings, but only chamfer from the inside. Further, the procedure is as follows:
- A sleeve is put on the pipe.
- A gasket is placed on the fitting to prevent galvanic corrosion.
- The tube is put on the fitting - until it stops. There is a hole on the body of the fitting where the end of the pipe should be visible.
- Take pliers, in which suitable pads are installed (of the required diameter). Pliers are installed close to the edge of the fitting, connecting the press handles together and crimping the part. As a result, two concave stripes should be clearly visible on the sleeve. Their depth should be the same. Once crimped, the fittings can rotate around the pipe.
That's all, the installation of metal-plastic pipes using a press fitting is finished. Such a joint can withstand pressures up to 10 atm, which is sufficient for most systems. Not suitable only for heating systems of houses with a number of storeys. more than 16. Their pressure in the system may be higher.

How to bend a reinforced plastic pipe

Often the installation of metal-plastic pipes arises the need to bend the pipe. This can be done with your hands or with a spring. It is easier and faster to work with a spring, but you have to buy it (it is inexpensive). The spring is inserted into the pipe and bent in the required direction. The pipe follows the bend, the spring is removed. It is easy to bend metal-plastic pipes with a spring - no big efforts are required, the actions are easily controlled, it is possible to correct the result.

What is good about this method is that you will not be able to pinch the walls, which happens when you apply excessive efforts in the manual method. Also, it will not be possible to make a steeper bend (with a radius less than the minimum) and compress the walls at the bend, narrowing the flow area.

Spring for bending metal-plastic pipes

It is necessary to bend MP-pipes with your hands gradually. Grasp with your hands on both sides of the bend (at the same distance from the center of the future arc), with your thumbs supporting the pipe from below. In this position, you begin to lower the edges down, at the same time press up with your thumbs.

Manual bending of metal-plastic pipes

With this method, sometimes from excessive efforts, the pipe loses its geometry. This negatively affects its bandwidth. Such areas should not be placed in the water supply or heating system. To avoid such situations, the fold is heated. This can only be done with a construction hair dryer. You cannot use open fire. It is easy to bend the heated plastic. At the same time, it does not squeeze (the main thing is not to overdo it).

Methods for bending MP pipes

Another way to avoid deformation is to pour sand inside. It will not allow the walls to shrink.

How to attach to walls

When laying the pipeline open, it must be somehow fixed on the walls. Usually, special plastic clips are used for this. They are single - for laying one line of the pipeline. Typically used for plumbing. There are double ones - most often they are installed for heating - the supply and return in two-pipe systems run in parallel.

Clips for mounting metal-plastic pipes on the wall

These clips are installed every meter (as often as possible). A hole is drilled in the wall for each, a dowel of the required type is inserted (selected depending on the type of material from which the walls are made). A heavy load is not expected, but plumbing and heating look much more attractive if everything is laid out exactly, like on a ruler.

Non-standard connections: with metal pipes, transition to another diameter

When replacing a water supply or heating, it is often necessary to combine metal and metal-plastic. Most often this happens at the outlet from the riser. In this case, the metal pipe is cut at a certain distance - 3-5 cm, a thread is cut on it. Next, a fitting with a union nut (collet) or an internal thread is screwed onto the thread. Further, the installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out according to the usual technology.

Some types of fittings that can be used when changing from metal to metal-plastic

The fitting is selected according to the diameter of the metal pipe, and the thread on the adapter must be internal - the external thread is cut on the pipe. This connection requires a seal. Wrap with flax and grease with packing paste or just use fum tape.

The connection of two pipes of different diameters is exactly the same. Only a suitable adapter fitting with nuts / nipples of the correct diameter is required.

An example of a water supply system wiring

First, we draw a plan for the wiring of the water supply system. This can be done on a piece of paper, indicating the necessary fittings. Please note that a threaded end fitting is required for the installation of taps. Taps are needed at the outlets for household appliances and plumbing fixtures, for heating radiators. This makes it possible to turn off devices without covering the entire system as a whole. The type of thread and its size are selected depending on the type of valve used.

An example of a water supply system on metal-plastic pipes

Also, transition fittings are needed before and after the meter (water or heating depends on the type of system). Having drawn a detailed plan, put down dimensions in all areas. According to this drawing, consider how much and what you need. Fittings can be purchased strictly according to the list, and it is advisable to take pipes with some margin. Firstly, you could make a mistake when measuring, and secondly, in the absence of experience, you can spoil some piece - cut off less than required or compress it incorrectly, etc.

Agree on the possibility of an exchange

When buying everything you need, agree with the seller that, if necessary, you can change / return some fittings. Even professionals are often mistaken with them, and even those who decided to do the wiring of the water supply or heating system from metal-plastic with their own hands and even more so. No one will take the remains of the pipe back from you, and the fittings are easy. But keep your receipt for safeguarding.

Sometimes it is more convenient to use collectors. They allow you to connect several consumers in parallel. There are collectors for plumbing and for heating (when installing a warm floor)

When and how to get started

Arriving home, lay out the fittings, proceed: the installation of metal-plastic pipes in the summer can be done immediately, in the winter you need to wait some time (12 hours) until all the elements are heated to room temperature. Cut off one piece of pipe at a time to the desired length. It's a little longer, but you won't get confused that way. Further actions depending on the selected type of fittings.

Heating wiring with metal-plastic pipes is done only on press fittings

After completing the installation of metal-plastic pipes, the pipeline is checked. If it is a water supply, it is enough to open the tap at the inlet. This should be done gradually and smoothly. The system will immediately begin to fill with water. If nothing has flowed anywhere, you did everything right. If any connections are leaking, they must either be redone - if press fittings were used, or tightened - if the assembly was on crimp connectors.

If a heating system was assembled from metal-plastic pipes, it must be pressurized before starting it - tested with increased pressure by pumping cold water into the system. If the test is successful, you can do a test run of the heating.

Related Videos

Once again, specialists from Valtek (Valtek), whose products are considered one of the best in this market, will explain how to correctly install metal-plastic pipes.

Reinforced-plastic pipes are polymer products that are commonly used in the arrangement of plumbing communications. They are an excellent alternative to steel counterparts, surpassing them in most performance characteristics, including cost and durability.

This article discusses the installation of metal-plastic pipes. You will find out what methods of joining metal-polymer products exist, how to mount them with your own hands and what tool is needed for this.

Content of the article

Design features

Reinforced-plastic pipes have a multilayer structure, which consists of 5 separate layers that perform different functional tasks:

outer and inner layer of polyethylene;
intermediate reinforcing layer of aluminum foil;
shells made of aluminum and PE are bonded with two layers of high temperature resistant adhesive.

For the manufacture of metal-plastic products, two types of polyethylene can be used - PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) and PE-RT (thermally stabilized polyethylene). These modifications of PE differ in manufacturing technology; in practice, the differences between them are that PEX is more resistant to deformation during long-term heating, which makes PEX pipes the preferred choice for arranging underfloor heating systems and hot water supply.

A foil sheath lying between the inner and outer PE layers ensures zero vapor permeability of the pipes, which, in turn, minimizes the problems with corrosion of heating devices (boilers, radiators) due to the penetration of oxygen into the coolant.

Reinforced-plastic pipes can be used in the following systems:

cold and hot water supply;
radiator heating;
warm floor;
gas supply pipelines.

The temperature maximum for the operation of metal-plastic products is +90 degrees, they are able to withstand working medium pressure up to 20 MPa.

Metal-polymer pipes are produced in the range of diameters 16-53 mm. Products with a diameter of more than 40 mm are practically not found in domestic use, while segments up to 32 mm are most in demand. The cheapest and most used are multilayer pipes 16 and 20 mm, the cost for which is minimal.

The wall thickness can be from 2 to 3.5 mm, the maximum bending radius is 80 mm (when bent manually) and 40 mm (when using a pipe bender).

Advantages of reinforced plastic pipes

The advantages of metal-plastic products that distinguish them from their polymer counterparts include:

Perfectly smooth walls (roughness coefficient 0.006), which guarantees quietness of the water supply system and the absence of problems with permeability even after a long time of operation.
Complete resistance to corrosion and chemically aggressive substances.
High mechanical strength, resistance to bending and tensile loads, crack resistance.
The minimum weight, the low cost of the pipes and connecting elements themselves, the pipeline is extremely easy to install with your own hands.
The products are easily bent and due to the aluminum layer they perfectly keep the given shape.
Durability - the service life of products exceeds 50 years, and maintainability.
Aesthetic appearance - after installation, the pipeline does not need painting.

Among the shortcomings, we note the tendency of the material to linear expansion. To prevent the problems associated with it, the installation of metal-plastic pipes must be carried out in compliance with a number of rules, namely:

for fixation, rigid attachments cannot be used, since when clamping the expanding line, the stress in the material increases greatly, you need to use sliding clips;
it is important to observe a step between the clips of 40-60 cm, which does not allow the pipeline to bend between the fasteners.

In general, in terms of the aggregate performance, metal-plastic pipes are superior not only to metal, but also to most polymer analogues.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes (video)

Installation of metal-plastic pipes

Installation of metal-polymer products is performed using two types of fittings - compression (threaded) and press, for their connection, high-temperature welding is not used, since only composite pipes can be qualitatively soldered to each other.

The main advantage of fitting connections is the extremely fast and easy installation, which does not require special skills. We also note that through fittings, metal-plastic pipes can be connected to other types, including steel, copper, etc.

Installation with compression fittings

The compression fitting allows, if necessary, to be dismantled, which is why its cost is higher than that of a press analogue. The compression fitting design consists of three parts:

fitting (metal or);
crimp ring;
union nut.

No special tools are required to install this fitting - the union nut of the fitting is threaded, which allows it to be tightened using an Allen wrench or an appropriately sized spanner.

Compression fittings are available in a wide range of standard sizes, you can purchase angles, adapters, crosses, etc.

Note that compression fittings need periodic repairs and maintenance, because due to the tendency of metal-plastic to linear expansion, leaks may appear at the joints of individual parts of the pipeline, which are eliminated by tightening the fitting. This imposes a limitation on the possibility of concealed installation of pipelines, which provides for concreting pipes inside walls and floor ceilings.

To connect segments with compression fittings, you need a tool:

(can be replaced with a hacksaw for metal or a grinder);
fine-grained sandpaper, file;
calibrator.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out according to the following instructions:

The pipe is straightened, measured and the required cut point is marked.
According to preliminary marking, the pipe is cut at right angles.
Burrs are removed from the end part of the cut using a file or sandpaper, then the product is rounded by means of a calibrator;
A union nut and a compression ring are put on the segment, which is placed at a distance of 1 cm from the cut.
The pipe is put on the fitting of the fitting, after which the union nut is tightened by hand. When the movement of the nut slows down, it is retracted with open-end wrenches by 3-4 turns.

When tightening the fitting, it is important not to overdo it - after assembly and, if necessary, problem connections are reached.

Installation with press fittings

Press fittings provide a permanent connection that does not require repair and maintenance, which allows for hidden pipe laying. These fittings can withstand a pressure of 10 bar, and their service life reaches up to 30 years.

For using press fittings, in addition to a pipe cutter, a sizer and an emery paper, you will need a press pliers. It is a tool that crimps a fitting sleeve around a pipe. The cost of pressing tongs varies between 1-3 thousand rubles, the tool is presented in the assortment of all companies that sell metal-polymer products.

The technology for installing metal-plastic pipelines is as follows:

The pipe is marked and cut at right angles into sections of the required length.
By means of a reamer or sandpaper, the cut site is cleared of burrs.
The calibrator eliminates ovality caused by cutting.
The segment is inserted all the way into the fitting so that it fits between the fitting and the crimp sleeve.
With the help of pressing tongs, the sleeve is crimped until the tool clicks. If the compression is done correctly, two rings of the same size are formed on the surface of the sleeve.

There are fittings in which the ferrule and the nipple go separately. In this case, you will first need to put a sleeve on the pipe, then fix it on the fitting, move the sleeve to the extreme position and squeeze it with pliers.

Installation technology for metal-plastic pipes. How to work with metal-plastic pipes: an overview of connection methods and bending methods Installation of a water supply system from metal-plastic pipes

Advantages and disadvantages of metal-plastic plumbing

We plan a water supply system "on paper"

Required tools and materials

Installation process of metal-plastic pipes

Checking, eliminating leaks

How to properly do the installation of metal-plastic pipes with your own hands

The device of pipes made of metal-plastic and their advantages

A few words about the wiring of the plumbing system

Fittings for metal-plastic products

Features of installation with compression fittings

Features of installation using press fittings

DIY installation of metal-plastic pipes

Advantages and device of pipes made of metal-plastic

Features of the wiring of the water supply system

Fittings for pipes made of metal-plastic

Rules for laying a metal-plastic pipeline

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: connection technology + wiring examples

Features of metal-plastic products

Technical characteristics of pipes D 16-20 mm

Advantages and disadvantages of metal polymers

Spheres of application of metal-plastic elements

Three main ways of routing pipes

Wiring diagrams for bathrooms and bathrooms

Sewerage piping

Rules for the installation of structures made of metal polymers

Pipe laying tools and materials

Pipeline marking

Overview of fittings for a metal-plastic system

Types of fittings for metal-plastic pipes

Preparing for installation

Tools

Preparation procedure

How to align a piece of reinforced plastic pipe

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using compression fittings

Installation of crimp (press or push) fittings on MP pipes

How to bend a reinforced plastic pipe

How to attach to walls

Non-standard connections: with metal pipes, transition to another diameter

An example of a water supply system wiring

Agree on the possibility of an exchange

When and how to get started

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