Shower for a bidet wall. Faucet with hygienic shower

Good plumbing guarantees the usual level of comfort. While everything is in order with the toilet, it seems that there can be no problems. But things are not eternal, sooner or later they break - and the toilet bowl begins to leak water, to leak.

At first glance, this is a minor inconvenience, but even a minor breakdown can cause major trouble. Why is the toilet bowl leaking? What can be done in this case?

If the toilet bowl leaks water, you need to urgently find out the cause and eliminate it as soon as possible. Every day the cost of a breakdown will be higher, because the counter continues to spin.

And if the situation gets out of control, everything can end with the flooding of neighbors and impressive amounts of compensation.

To understand what is the reason for the leak of the tank, you will have to remove it and disassemble it. This must be done very carefully without damaging the seal.

It happens that there are several minor breakdowns. For example, the toilet is constantly pouring, and the coupling has lost its tightness and constantly passes a small amount of water.

The owner of the apartment may not even notice this, but very soon the ceiling in the toilet will get wet from the neighbors below, and complaints are inevitable.

Little things like the sound of running water, rising utility bills, the risk of hurting your neighbors, all add up to a very unsightly picture.

Therefore, you should not waste time and wait for all these troubles, you need to solve the problem once and for a long time.

The best preventative measure to prevent leaks is to have your toilet installed professionally and regularly inspected. Once every 3 months, you should check the tightness of the connections, the performance of the gaskets. To prevent debris from entering the tank, it is advisable to install a coarse filter

The device and features of the tank

To repair a toilet tank, you need to have a very good idea of ​​what elements it consists of and how it works. The market offers a wide variety of models. Let's consider the most common.

Designs of popular models

The most common types of toilet cisterns are designs combined with a bowl (compact) and suspended. The first are convenient in that during installation it is not necessary to mount a special exhaust pipe.

And secondly, a stronger pressure is created, due to which the toilet bowl is better cleaned.

The disadvantages of hanging cisterns include more noise when flushing, and additional elements complicate the design, which increases the risk of breakage.

However, in general, they are no less convenient and practical than fused with a bowl, so they are very common in modern apartments.

Now that aesthetics is becoming as important a criterion for choosing plumbing as convenience, many apartment owners have begun to install installations.

The drain tank of this model is mounted on the wall, and it becomes invisible. For flushing there is a special button on the panel.

Because of the hidden installation, such a design is a little more difficult to repair if something happens to it.

The advantage of modern models of toilet bowls is the possibility of modular repair. All nodes wear about the same. In order not to repair one part after another, you can replace all valves at once

Triggers can also vary, and the convenience and durability of operation often depend on this.

For closed drain tanks, water release buttons are most often used, but there are designs with chains or levers that are installed for suspended models.

Mechanical triggers are designed so that the water drains as long as the button is pressed, while automatic triggers work even after a single short press. Breakdowns in the mechanisms of the first type are less common, but the difference is still not fundamental, because. Both types are pretty reliable.

As for the material, the most common models are ceramic and plastic, although in some apartments you can still find cast-iron rarities to this day.

Plastic and faience cisterns are very convenient, rarely burst. Usually the cause of their failure is mechanical damage or manufacturing defects.

Tank models with two buttons are very convenient, which allow you to select the water flow mode - full and economical. This type of construction uses membrane drain valves, due to which the water does not flow out completely when the economical drain button is pressed.

The main parts of the drain device

A drain tank of any design consists of a bowl, a filling valve, a drain and overflow mechanism. The bowl is a durable container in which water accumulates to flush the toilet.

It rarely fails, but if it does, the tank has to be replaced. Repair can only be a temporary measure until the owner chooses a new model. The valve is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank. It is equipped with a special float that acts as an indicator of the amount of water.

The float is attached to the valve with a brass rod. In modern models, the valve is located at the very bottom of the drain bowl, and in obsolete models, on the side.

The drain and overflow system is a fitting with start buttons. Most often, the entire mechanism is made of plastic, it works when you press the water release button. The drain system is connected to the overflow mechanism to prevent water from spilling out of the bowl. The excess is drained into the sewer, and this process is regulated using a float valve.

The video shows a step-by-step diagram of disassembling the tank into separate parts:

The principle of operation of fused and wall models

The cisterns connected to the toilet bowl are activated when the trigger button is pressed and the water drains until the button is released.

When the drain valve is open, the overflow mechanism is closed.

When the water level drops to the minimum, the float valve opens and the valve closes. This is because the indicator float drops to the bottom of the bowl. When the tank is completely empty, and the float is at the bottom, water begins to fill the bowl. It enters the tank until the float rises to its original place. At this point, the valve shuts off the water supply.

Wall models work on a slightly different principle. The functions of the drain bowl are performed by a special siphon in the form of a corrugated tube. When the trigger is pressed, water flows out through the open part of the tube.

When the water level drops, the float valve opens and the tank begins to fill until the indicator float returns to its place. When the float rises, the float valve closes, preventing liquid from overflowing.

A detailed explanation of the design and principle of operation of the drain tank from a specialist:

The main causes of external leaks

What to do if the toilet tank is leaking and water is on the floor? First you need to understand the reasons. There are two main nodes, a breakdown in which leads to this kind of trouble. This is the gasket that is installed between the tank and the toilet bowl, and the screws that connect the compact design.

The causes of external leaks can be either a loose installation of the drain tank on the bowl, or a violation of the sealing gasket installation technology.

Also, the tank may leak due to natural wear or initially poor quality gaskets. In all cases, the essence of the problem lies in the lack of tightness of the connections.

Sealing gaskets for toilet bowls are in every building store. They are silicone, rubber or polyurethane. Any of the materials perfectly copes with its tasks. The main thing is that the new gasket is not hard. You can check it by squeezing it in your hand. The surface of the product must be smooth and even.

How to replace a leaking gasket?

First of all, turn off the water and empty the tank. After that, it can be removed by unscrewing the two screws connecting the structure. In relatively new toilets, the screws do not have time to rust and are easily unscrewed.

If the screws are seriously “grown”, you will have to be careful when unscrewing. It makes sense to consider the option of a complete replacement of the structure, because. problems can appear simply because the toilet has served its time.

In this case, breakdowns follow one after another, and soon after the repair you will have to face new troubles.

When the parts of the structure are separated, the sealing gasket can be removed and checked for leaks. To do this, it is compressed. If it has hardened and lost elasticity, it's time to buy a new one.

If everything is in order with the gasket itself, then the problem is in the wrong installation, but in this case it is better to put a new one.

Before installing the gasket, the joints are thoroughly cleaned and dried. The new part is placed in the same place as the old one.

To guarantee the tightness of the connection, it can be glued with a special silicone compound. It is applied to parts of the structure and to the gasket itself on both sides.

After installing the gasket, the tank is installed in place, tightly clamping the screws. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the applied efforts so that the connection is airtight, but the faience does not burst.

It remains only to tighten the nuts and wait until the silicone grabs. The toilet can be used after 2-3 hours.

Silicone sealants are designed for bonding rubber, metal, plastic parts. After drying, they form a dense impermeable mass, resistant to all types of influences.

We eliminate the leak in the place of the connecting screws

Leaks in the places where the connecting screws are installed occur in two cases:

• if the toilet was originally mounted unprofessionally;
• if seals are dry.

To eliminate the leak, unscrew the screws, but the reservoir bowl itself does not need to be removed. Most likely, flat rubber seals have become unusable.

They will have to be replaced, preferably with conical gaskets, which provide a tighter fit of the parts.

To install new fasteners, a metal washer is put on the screw, then a gasket (if it is conical, then with a wide part to the screw head).

When fixing the structure, it is necessary to evenly distribute efforts, alternately tightening either one or the second screw. This will help avoid distortion. If the tank is installed correctly, then all connections will remain tight.

Skews will lead to new leaks or cracks in the plumbing fixture.

Each toilet model has its own design features, so when disassembling, you should be very careful, remember the location of each part, the specifics of fastening and other nuances. This will help to properly assemble the toilet after repair.

How to eliminate internal leaks?

Such leaks are called internal when the tank passes water into the toilet bowl. In this case, the floor remains dry, but water flows uncontrollably into the sewer.

Such a breakdown cannot cause a “flood” in the apartment, but it will affect utility bills. Although the water drips only a little, a fairly large volume can leak out during the day.

Overflow tube adjustment

Most often, the reservoir float is faulty: it does not completely close the drain hole. Sometimes it happens that the overflow pipe is incorrectly adjusted or the drain mechanism itself is damaged.

The easiest way is to check if the overflow tube is adjusted correctly. To do this, the tank is opened, and the tube is slightly raised. If water overflows into the tube, then the cause of the malfunction is in the float valve.

If not, you just need to adjust the float by slightly bending the lever.

To get the drain mechanism working, sometimes a little thing is enough - just fix and clean the mechanism components that can accidentally move or become clogged under a stream of water

Minor repair of the drain mechanism

To repair the float, unscrew the plastic nut that secures the tank to the toilet. Here is a rubber part that is responsible for blocking the water.

It must be removed and thoroughly washed, removing all dirt from the place where it was. After that, the gum is installed again and the operation of the tank is checked.

If, after cleaning the gum, the toilet cistern no longer leaks, then the repair can be considered complete. If the water is still flowing, then the part will have to be replaced with a new one.

You can buy it at any hardware or hardware store.

How to replace the rubber, you can learn from the video instructions:

Valve problem - what to do?

Sometimes the toilet cistern leaks due to the fact that the drain valve does not completely shut off the water. This happens if debris gets into the tank or the device itself is broken. In the first case, it is enough to simply clean the container by removing dirt from under the gum.

If the usual cleaning did not help, you will have to change the valve rubber, because. it dries out over time and can no longer fit snugly to the drain. As a temporary measure, you can simply turn it over to the other side.

A broken valve needs to be replaced. How to do this is described in detail in the video:

Minor problems with the cistern

With plumbing fixtures, the most unexpected problems can arise. Some of them do not affect the comfort of operation, but cause minor troubles.

For example, the tank may simply make too much noise when filling and interfere with a night's sleep. If the toilet is noisy, you can put a silencer (a flexible plastic tube) or a stabilizing float valve with a special chamber.

If you have already had to repair the tank, try to immediately think about how you want to improve its work, and perform all the necessary manipulations in one go.

Whatever the reasons why the toilet cistern was leaking water, after repair, it is imperative to properly adjust the operation of the float and overflow system.

This will help prevent future leaks.

The toilet in every home is an element of everyday life, without which it is simply impossible to do. It is operated much more often than all other plumbing fixtures. That is why it fails more often than other devices. And its most vulnerable component is the tank, which consists of several internal components. Their mechanical damage, as well as careless handling of the tank are the reasons for the loss of this device of its performance. In the article, we will look at how to repair a toilet cistern with a button on our own, without calling a plumber team.

All drain tanks have a similar design. The difference is only in the mechanism of starting water.

Structurally, a toilet cistern with a button or two buttons, as well as a flush lever, can be represented as a set of interacting nodes:

• filling valve. He is responsible for maintaining the water level at a certain level. The valve is controlled by a hollow float. When the water rises to the desired level, the float closes the water supply channel to the tank;
• Plastic float attached to the filling valve. Works on the principle of a rocker, rising when filling the tank;
• drain valve having an overflow system. Modern tank options involve controlling this valve by pressing a button. With manual control of the old-style drain, it is enough to pull the lever or chain to start water into the toilet;
• overflow is a mandatory component of the tank. It is adjustable in height, thanks to which the maximum water level is set. When this level is exceeded, water flows through the overflow pipe into the sewer without spilling out through its walls.

The main structural elements and the principle of operation of the mechanism are the same for all types of drain tanks, only their execution differs

A tank with a mechanical drain is very simple to operate. Water enters it through the filling valve when the float is in the lowered position. After reaching a strictly defined level, the float shuts off the water supply. Drainage is controlled manually. If the tank is equipped with buttons, then the water is drained after pressing them. In this case, the drain valve partially or completely opens, passing water into the toilet. The float drops, slightly opening the filling valve.

The structure of the toilet flush tank with two buttons is a little more complicated, but you can use such a tank more economically. If you press one of the buttons, the water is partially drained. Full drain occurs when the second button is pressed.

Increasingly, you can find new types of tanks that have bottom water connection. It is advisable to install them if the use of lateral connection is not possible due to lack of space. The main difference between this tank is the presence of a membrane valve. Under the action of water pressure in the pipeline, the valve opens slightly and allows water to enter. When the water rises, the float presses on the piston rod, which gradually closes the diaphragm valve. When the set level is reached, the valve closes completely.

Fittings with bottom water inlet and button control

Common faults

Drain malfunctions may well lead to the loss of the toilet bowl of its performance. For many, such a sudden breakdown can be a real natural disaster. In addition, no one will like the increased water consumption either.

About what it is and what types it happens, read in a separate material.

And how to choose and in what situations it is necessary, we told in another article on the site.

What kind of breakdowns are typical for drain tanks? We list them in order of frequency of occurrence:

1. Leakage of water from the toilet to the floor. Most often, water flows through the sealing ring located between the bottom of the tank and the toilet shelf. If the ring is cracked or warped, water will seep through it. Also, the place of leakage may be the gaskets of the mounting bolts with which the tank is attached to the shelf. They will have to be replaced if tightening the bolts does not work. And it doesn't matter if the cistern of an old-style toilet bowl is being repaired, or a modern system is being repaired. After all, they all have the same mounts.

Tip: When replacing gaskets and seals, it is recommended to lubricate them with liquid silicone to prolong their life and prevent cracking.

2. There is a constant flow of water in the toilet. Most often this is due to the overflow of the tank, in which water flows out through the overflow tube. This can happen due to a change in the height of the overflow, a loose fit of the float to the shut-off valve, and the loss of its tightness by the float. The rubber seal on the drain fitting may also be worn. Most often, the malfunction can be eliminated by adjustment. When the locking gasket is worn, it is desirable to replace the entire drain mechanism.

3. Starter malfunctions. If you are using a push-button water dispenser, water may not flow to the drain when the button is pressed. You can repair the fittings of the drain tank with your own hands, since, most often, the lever mechanism that connects the button to the drain breaks. This also applies to tanks with a handle or a chain.

4. Noisy tank filling. This happens due to the disconnection of the tube through which water is poured into the tank. This is typical for tanks in which water is supplied from the side. With a flown tube, the noise of incoming water will be clearly audible. To fix the problem, remove the top cover and install the tube on the fitting.

5. Water does not flow into the tank. Repairing a toilet cistern with a button or with other descent mechanisms in the event of such a problem comes down to checking the inlet to the cistern. It is necessary to remove the valve from the tank and clean the inlet with a thin steel wire and rinse it with water.

Tank repair with one button

Many people who are used to old-style cistern do not know how to fix a toilet flush with a button. In fact, the differences between these systems are very minor. For many, the main problem is disassembling such a tank. Indeed, the button located on the tank lid requires careful handling during disassembly. But the device is very easy to disassemble.

The procedure will be as follows:

• turn off the water;
• empty the tank;
• carefully unscrew the plastic nut near the button;
• remove the cover.

Further actions depend on the nature of the breakdown. Breakdowns of a tank with a button can be as follows:

1. Little water is drawn into the tank. Check float position and adjust.
2. The water start button is stuck. This may be due to clogging of the button shaft. It is necessary to clean it, and set the button to its original position.
3. Water does not go into the toilet when the button is pressed. Most likely, there was a break in the mechanism between the button and the drain valve. You can restore it yourself. If this fitting is broken, then you can use copper wire to replace it or replace the valve completely.
4. Water flows through the overflow neck. Overflow height or float needs to be adjusted. The overflow is very easy to adjust. To do this, unscrew the union nut and set the desired overflow level.
5. Water flows into the toilet from under the valve. The drain valve gasket may have worn out. It is best to replace the entire valve. To do this, unscrew the plastic nut at the bottom of the tank and remove the valve from its place. Install a new valve.

Note: It happens that the valve is loosely in place due to skew. Re-opening and closing it helps eliminate the problem of leakage.

Repair of a two-button tank

Economical water consumption adds popularity to such a plumbing fixture. And how to repair a toilet flush tank with two buttons? The principle of disassembling such a tank remains the same as that of the one-button version.

Typical breakdowns of a two-button tank:

Repair of a tank with a bottom water connection

A tank with a bottom water connection uses a membrane-type filling valve. This may cause a problem with filling the tank with low pressure in the water supply system. The water pressure may not be enough to squeeze the valve and fill the tank. If your system is constantly maintained at low pressure, then it is better to replace the diaphragm valve with a rod analogue.

Another common problem is water leakage at the inlet valve reservoir. Its location is such that the valve is constantly under water. With insufficient tightness of the connections, the presence of leaks is almost guaranteed.

Repair of the toilet cistern with a lower water supply is carried out after shutting off the water supply and removing the cistern lid. After that, the problem is fixed using the same algorithms that are described for repairing models with buttons.

We figured out how to repair a flush tank with a button, with two buttons or with mechanical control. They differ slightly, mainly in the design of the control mechanism. The general principle of operation and repair for all considered devices is the same.

The video shows the repair of the toilet cistern with your own hands, or rather, the process of replacing its fittings.

Plumbing wears out over time. Some parts require correction, others need to be replaced. Finding out about a breakdown is quite simple: the tank starts to leak, makes a lot of noise, and there are problems with flushing. But you can repair it yourself, without special knowledge.

It is possible to carry out repair work on the toilet bowl, because the design device is quite simple. The toilet bowl scheme provides a bowl and a tank. But most often, breakdowns are observed in the tank.

The drain tank operates on the principle of a water seal. Its system includes levers, a seal and a float. After draining, the water enters the tank again and a shut-off valve is activated at a certain point.

Signs of a tank problem:

• Liquid constantly enters the tank;
• Water flows from the tank into the toilet;
• To flush the house, you need to press the flush button several times;
• The flush lever does not work at all;
• The toilet is leaking;
• Lots of noise when draining.

The main thing is to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown, and repair is not at all difficult. With a constant flow of liquid into the tank, the reason lies in the skew or displacement of the float. This breakdown is eliminated quite simply - you need to install the parts in the right place.

The correct position of the float is determined 2.5 cm below the connection of the underwater pipe.

Shutting off the water supply is easy with a wrench. Often, inspecting the float helps to find out the causes of the leak. If the float is damaged, water flows into it and the element becomes heavier.

It is quite easy to repair a float. It is necessary to remove the element and pour out excess liquid from it. The chip should be repaired and reconnected to the system. But such a repair will last only the first time, then you will need to completely change the broken part. The resulting chips are sealed with heated polyethylene.

What to do if the toilet is leaking from the bottom

If the tank is leaking from below, then the siphon membrane needs to be replaced. The same operation should be done if the water is not washed off for a long time. It is quite easy to complete this process.

Membrane replacement sequence:

1. First, a crossbar is installed instead of a tank lid;
2. A float is connected to the crossbar;
3. All liquid should be drained from the tank;
4. The nut that fastens the pipe to the tank will need to be unscrewed;
5. The siphon nut is also loosened;
6. Then the siphon is removed;
7. After that, the membrane is removed and replaced;
8. Then install all the extracted parts.

When the flush lever is not working, the thrust is repaired. The broken part is removed and replaced with a new one. For this, a homemade element from a wire is suitable. Over time, you can buy new traction.

But most often the tank passes water due to the wear of the gasket between the toilet bowl and the tank. There is a constant flow of water in the bowl, which reminds of itself with yellow spots. The worn element should be replaced with a new one. To begin with, they turn off the water and disconnect the flush tank from the toilet, then unfasten the drain. With this part, they go to a plumbing store and buy a similar one.

In some cases, drain replacement is not required. Perhaps the problem is wear and distortion of the rings. They are either fixed or replaced.

When the tank is leaking, you need to check the correct water level. To remove excess fluid, there is a special tube. It should be moved below.

How to fix a leak between the tank and the toilet

If there is a leak between the tank and the toilet, then the reason is the depressurization of the device. Most likely, the problem is the deformation of the seal, a special rubber gasket. To fix the problem, you will need to replace the gasket.

Gasket replacement steps:

1. First, shut off the water supply;
2. The liquid from the tank will need to be drained, possible residues are also removed;
3. Under the descent hatch there is a drain nut, it should be loosened;
4. Then you should remove the tank by unscrewing the corresponding nuts at the place of fastening;
5. You will also need to unscrew the drain;
6. Next, you need to replace the gasket;
7. Then reinstall all parts in place.

But the old rusty bolt that holds the container to the bowl can also be the cause of the problem. Next, you need to replace the damaged part. Also, the water is first shut off and the water is drained. Bolts will need to be removed and replaced with new ones. Sealing washers are required.

When buying gaskets, be sure to take into account their size, because the element is available in different forms. That is why you need to know exactly the dimensions of the part.

Sometimes you can only tighten loose bolts. To do this, just fix the element with a key and turn it with a screwdriver. But you need to be careful not to ruin the ceramic bowl. That is why it is better to replace parts, and not constantly twist.

Fastening the gasket between the tank and the toilet

Gasket is one of the most popular fasteners. The advantages of such a part are obvious: small size and reliability of fastening. But there is also a minus - a little pressure. To wash off the drains for the tank to work, you need a lot of water.

Types of gaskets:

• In the form of a guitar;
• round;
• Invoice.

The replacement is pretty fast. First, all communications are turned off. From the tank you will need to drain the water and disconnect from the bowl. To do this, simply unscrew the bolts.

Older models have metal bolts and will rust over time. Removing these elements with a key is not easy, you can damage the ceramics. It is best to treat parts with special WD-40 fluid.

The rubber seal needs to be replaced. To increase sealing, use silicone sealant. You can apply a gasket or mount in a special hole.

There may also be a gasket between the bowl and the toilet. It all depends on the chosen toilet model. This element acts as a shock absorber. This minimizes possible damage between porcelain and faience.

Modern toilets come mostly without gaskets. From the tank to the bowl is a solid monolith. Using such a toilet is simple and convenient, but the cost of the device is quite high.

It’s good when the bathroom works like clockwork, but according to the laws of so-called meanness, we have to find out why the toilet tank is leaking, what to do and who is to blame, we have to do it at the most inopportune moment. To speed up the process of returning this attribute of a comfortable life to the senses, here are a few typical problem situations and their solutions.

If you at your leisure come up to your toilet and study its structure, you will notice that the cistern is the most complex in structure. Inside it there is even a mechanism of a certain action, all parts of which interact regularly and allow significant amounts of water to be drained, taking all the waste into the sewer. It is expected that it will not always work so clearly, and someday its plastic elements will crack, gaskets will leak, bolts will rust or simply unwind. All this will cause a leak, the consequence of which will be, at best, an increased figure in the water consumption column on the utility bill. At worst, a sudden flood awaits you, the consequences of which will also affect your neighbors.

To avoid all this, you should sometimes look closely at the space near the toilet and behind it, so you can notice a puddle under the tank or in the hose area in time, and also do not disregard the phenomenon of water leaking from the flush hole. If even minor flaws are found, care should be taken to eliminate them, it will cost faster and cheaper than later to carry out major repairs. Tank designs come in several types, but they differ slightly, so when looking for problems and solutions, you can navigate by lifting the lid. So, in total, three areas can be distinguished for inspection and repair - the tank itself, its mechanism and hoses. Let's deal with each option separately.

Let's start with the hose, which is still outside and connects the water pipe to the tank. As a rule, it breaks in the middle and rarely leaks, unless, of course, it is mechanically damaged on purpose. But the junctions, especially from the side of the float structure, are problem areas. It is quite simple to determine the breakdown here, a trickle, which, depending on the severity of the damage to the fastener, will either drip steadily or gush, persistently hints at you about this. In this case, it is necessary to establish whether such a phenomenon is caused simply by loosely tightened nuts, or whether a crack on the valve is to blame, which crowns the end of the hose at the junction with the float mechanism.

Check the fasteners and gaskets under them, if everything is tightened well, and the rubber part has retained sufficient thickness and shows no signs of wear or breakthrough, then the valve should be looked at. By the way, if you nevertheless found a lack of connection in this particular place, then it is enough to change the gasket and tighten the nuts, just pay attention to what material they are made of. Plastic products should not be twisted with a metal tool, you can not only damage it from the outside, but also strip the thread, or even split it completely without calculating the effort. In this case, it is enough to screw it by hand, you can use a rubberized glove so that your hands do not slip.

If the problem is in the valve, and it can only be a crack, then it does not make sense to eliminate it, such a part just needs to be replaced. But do not rush to run to the store, remove the old valve and take it with you. Due to differences in cistern designs, you may end up purchasing a product that won't fit your toilet even though it looks very similar to what you're looking for. To remove it, turn off the water, remove the tank cap and remove the valve from the junction of the hose with the float mechanism. How to install a new one, you already guessed it.

Now let's pay attention to the other outer side of the tank, with which it adjoins the toilet itself. To do this, the latter has a kind of shelf on which the gasket is laid, and it is mounted on top. So this intermediate strip, which saves sanitary ware from mutual abrasion and seals the joint at the same time, can be rubber, plastic and metal. Leakage in this place is characterized by the formation of a puddle after each flush. The gap through which water escapes may appear due to wear or even due to a banal shift of the cuff.

The first step is to check the clamps that secure the material between the tank and the toilet shelf. The gasket will become unusable even faster if you tighten these fasteners, so do not get carried away, and if during the check you determined that they are tightened enough, you do not need to make a “control” turn with a key. If this does not help, but the cuff still looks good outwardly and promises to serve at least 5 years, you can treat its edges with a sealant and press it.

Sometimes the gasket is not to blame for the leak, but the problem lies in the bolts that directly fasten the tank and, these are two large fasteners with nuts. That's just their weakening, rust or abrasion of the gasket under the nuts and causes constant seepage of water, even if no one uses the toilet. To get to this part, you need to turn off the water and drain the entire contents of the tank. Unscrew the nuts that are under the toilet, check the metal for rust, and the rubber bands for signs of wear. If such defects are found, purchase a new set of fasteners and install it.

If, while crawling under the tank, you saw that there is a crack on the body itself, it is unlikely that anything will save you from buying a new toilet bowl set, since it makes no sense to close up the sanitary ware.

How to fix the mechanism inside the tank with a leak?

Now we have come to the most curious stage of the repair - the mechanism, you should climb into it when water oozes from the toilet drain hole, that is, it does not close tightly after flushing. A float or a siphon can be problematic there, so we will determine the sequence of how to eliminate the unnerving murmur of the toilet bowl.

The hygienic shower faucet is a compact option for people who want to install a bidet but don't have a spacious enough bathroom. Such a faucet is mounted on a sink in a combined bathroom, or on a small sink in a toilet. There are options for concealed installation of a faucet with a hygienic watering can, in which case you do not need a sink.

We do not limit the choice

In the online store, the site presents faucets with a hygienic shower in modern and classic designs, options are available in chrome, gold, bronze colors. Also, you can always choose any shower faucet or concealed faucet and complete it with a hygienic watering can from the section of our catalog with the same name. We recommend a hygienic toilet shower with a mixer from German manufacturers Grohe, Hansgrohe, Ideal Standard, Czech Lemark models, German-Italian joint products Am.Pm. Classical models in our catalog are presented by Italian firms Cezares and Migliore.

A hygienic shower with mixer is a purchase wisely

In the online store, the site is always pleasantly low prices, a large selection of sanitary ware and convenient seven-day delivery. The purchase can be paid in cash at the office or upon delivery, by card at the office or via the Internet, or by account in any bank. We work with legal entities on non-cash accounts.