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To properly install the toilet on the tile, follow our step-by-step instructions, provided with photos and videos.

Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Total time: ~ 24 hours.

Preparing a room for a toilet

It is better to install the toilet bowl in a completely renovated room so as not to damage the plumbing. You should have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the drain tank.

Tools and materials required for proper installation

To install the toilet, we need the following tools and materials:

1. Adjustable wrench
2. flexible hose
3. fum tape
4. Pencil or marker
5. Yardstick
6. Hammer
7. Dowels and bolts (should come with the toilet)
8. Sanitary lubricant
9. liquid silicone
10. rubber spatula

How to properly install a toilet bowl with your own hands

Step 1. Eyeliner to the drain tank

Shut off water access to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A crane must be connected here. An angled or straight faucet of your choice can be used. Seal the threads on the faucet with fum tape and screw the faucet into a water outlet. If using a corner tap, screw it in so that it points down. Shut off the faucet valve.

Screw the flexible hose to the faucet outlet. It is not necessary to use a fum-tape, since a sealing gum is provided in the design of the flexible hose.

Step 2. Marking the toilet installation guide

To install the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along the two marks. This line will be our guide, determining the direction of the correct installation of the toilet.

Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain

If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening looks towards the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl at a smoother angle.

Advice: To make it easier to connect two pipes, use plumbing grease. Apply it to the inside of the drain hole (lubricate the rubber o-ring) and to the outside of the elbow pipe that will fit into the hole.

The sewer drain can be connected to the outlet of the toilet in two ways:

• hard plastic adapter;
• flexible corrugation.

In both cases, when inserting the connector, use plumbing grease as above.

Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor

Advice: Do not pre-connect the tank to the toilet. When and how to connect the tank to the toilet, you will learn later in the article.

Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the supporting part of the toilet must be smooth, without defects. Clean it up if necessary with a sharp knife.

Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Follow the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to position the toilet correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distance from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.

Connect the toilet pipe to the drain system adapter and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help you install it in the future without additional measurements. Also, on both sides, mark the locations of the holes for fasteners.

Step 5. Fixing the toilet to the tile floor

Set the toilet aside and drill holes in the tile for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Hammer plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tile.

Put the toilet back in place along the drawn lines and connect it to the sewer drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet into both mounting holes, but only halfway.

Step 6. Additional fixing of the toilet bowl with liquid silicone

Raise the toilet bowl by 0.5-1 cm, place any supports in two or three places (use what you have at hand - plastic, pieces of tiles, etc.). Very carefully inject white liquid silicone into the gap between the base of the toilet bowl and the floor tiles. Do this around the entire perimeter of the base of the toilet. Raise the sides of the toilet bowl with your hands and, taking out the stands, add silicone. Silicone should be evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the base of the toilet and create a plentiful "cushion".

Lower the toilet and tighten the fixing screws all the way by hand (without excessive force). Remove excess silicone that is outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a beautiful edging around the entire perimeter of the base.

It is necessary to wait a few hours (see the curing time of the silicone on the packaging), and only then proceed with the installation of the toilet.

How to install a toilet flush mechanism

Put a gasket on the threads of the main drain and insert it into the technological opening of the drain tank. On the reverse side, tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.

Advice: We recommend installing a locking device that controls the flow of water into the flush tank after installing the flush tank on the toilet bowl. This will make tightening the mounting screws more convenient - you will not be disturbed by an extra mechanism inside the tank.

When installing the locking device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose is put on. Remove bumps so that the further connection is tight. Insert the locking device into the hole in the tank intended for it and tighten it from the back with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools, tighten the nut by hand.

How to install a cistern on a toilet

After the silicone has completely hardened and the cistern drain mechanism is assembled, you can proceed to install it on the toilet.

Between the drain tank and the base of the toilet bowl, it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (comes with the toilet bowl). Then slide the cistern onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet align with the holes on the cistern. The connecting screws must have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone. Insert the fixing screws into the holes of the drain tank and twist them on the other side with plastic nuts (horns). When tightening the screws, make sure that the tank is horizontal.

Screw the flexible hose that supplies water to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of a fum tape, since the connection will occur through a rubber gasket.

The installation of the cistern on the toilet is completed, you can open the faucet and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.

Put the lid on the drain tank so that all the elements of the trigger mechanism enter the hole. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this stage, the installation of the toilet cistern is completed.

How to install a seat and lid on a toilet

The simplest remains. Attach the seat to the toilet and thread the mounting screws through the holes. Without much effort, tighten the screws on the back of the toilet with nuts. Toilet seat installed.

Video lesson: How to properly install the toilet on the tiled floor in the toilet

Work completed. You installed the toilet with your own hands and, rest assured, you did it right!

During a major overhaul or due to a failure of plumbing, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet bowl. In order for everything to go smoothly, you should take into account a number of features of this process and correctly approach the choice of a new toilet bowl. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will do all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet with your own hands will save a lot of money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the best option and method of mounting.

A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:

1. - choose a new toilet according to the method of attachment and the method of draining;
2. - dismantle the old toilet;
3. - repair the room (replacement of lining, screed, sewer pipes, etc.);
4. - installation and connection of a new toilet bowl.

It is very important to make a choice and purchase a new toilet in advance. This takes into account a number of features and nuances.

Choosing a new toilet

According to their design, floor toilet bowls are divided into several types, differing in the shape of their main nodes.

So, there are the following models according to the shape of the outlet drain:

1. horizontal
2. oblique (at an angle of 45 degrees)
3. vertical

The shape of the bowl distinguish:

1. poppet
2. visor
3. funnel-shaped

The flush tank can be combined with the base of the toilet or mounted separately on the wall, raising it to a sufficient height, and sometimes to the ceiling.

Fixing toilets to the floor are also different. Basically, there are options with two and four direct attachment points, in addition, structures may come across in which special corners are attached to the floor, and the toilet itself is already attached to them.

Choosing a toilet should begin with the selection of the type of drain. If it is not intended to change the supply of the sewer pipe, then the same type of drain must be selected as was installed before. No adapters and pipes will be able to connect a toilet bowl with high quality, for example, with a direct outlet and a vertical one.

The way the tank is connected affects the cladding work in the toilet. After all, if a wall mounting method is chosen, then it will be necessary to prepare a place and anchors for installation.

Before you change the toilet, you should take into account the dimensions of the toilet so that the design after installation does not interfere with closing the door and installing the rest of the equipment, if all this is done in a combined bathroom.

Removing an old toilet

• Turn off the water supply to the drain tank. Drain all the water from it and unscrew the hose that goes to it. After that, you can unscrew the fasteners of the tank. Most likely, the bolts on which it is attached are rusted or stuck with deposits. In order to break them, you will need to hold the head of the bolt on one side with a screwdriver or open-end wrench, and on the other hand, unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. You can use WD-40 spray lubricant or some kerosene to soak the bolt. Then he will more easily succumb to efforts.
• After removing the tank, the fasteners of the toilet bowl are unscrewed. It can be nuts screwed onto an anchor or dowel.
• The next step is to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. In the houses of the old building, the drain was fixed with a cement coating. For work you will need a chisel and a hammer. Carefully prick the cement with a chisel, placing it across the coating in two places. Then you can shake the toilet with force until the drain turns and loosens. After that, without disconnecting the toilet, tilt it in order to drain all the remaining water from it.
• When the dismantling of the toilet is completed, the hole in the sewer pipe is closed with a cloth plug or a wooden plug. It should be remembered that the gases from the sewer are not only poisonous and smell unpleasant, but also flammable.

You can not stand on ceremony with the dismantling of the toilet, because it is unlikely to be reused. In this case, to facilitate work with chipping off the cement coating, it is better to beat off most of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer. In order to make it easier to scroll and loosen the drain after that, make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod or wooden stick as a lever.

If cast-iron drain pipes are laid in the apartment, it is best to change them all to plastic at the same time. The use of PVC pipes for sewerage greatly facilitates the process of operation and initial wiring, as well as connecting all drain points.

How to install a new toilet

• When all the finishing work has been done or the old toilet bowl has been dismantled, and the surface for the new one has been leveled and prepared, you can proceed with the installation. To do this, either a corrugated pipe is attached to the toilet drain for articulation with a sewer outlet pipe, or a rigid pipe. It is best when the toilet drain fits perfectly into the pipe outlet and without the use of corrugated pipes. In this case, it is only necessary to use a rubber seal with a border. When using rubber seals, the drain transition to the sewer inlet must not be sealed with cement.
• Water supply is being prepared. The easiest way is to use a flexible hose that is wound around the water supply tap and to the inlet to the tank. You should carefully select the required diameter of the fasteners at both ends of the hose. Thus, 1/8” pipe outlets are often used, but 3/4” pipe can also be installed.
• After connecting, you can proceed to fixing the toilet to the floor or wall. More details about connection methods will be discussed below.
• The toilet is being assembled. A tank is mounted on a fixed base or a pipe is connected from a hanging barrel fixed on the wall. After that, you can check the performance of the toilet bowl and tank settings. To do this, turn on the cold water supply and wait until the tank is full. With the help of the adjustment, you can adjust the level to which water will be drawn. Each locking mechanism or tank comes with instructions on how to set it up.
• The final step will be the attachment of the toilet seat. For its fastening, there are holes on the far upper part of the toilet bowl, and bolt or anchor fasteners are included with the toilet seat.

Ways to fix the toilet bowl and their features

There are three main options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

1. reinforcement with anchors cast into the screed, or the use of dowels;
2. installation of a toilet bowl on a wooden base pre-mounted in the screed using screws;
3. fixing with epoxy.

What is the best way to fasten during the overhaul of the floor

If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchoring or with a prepared wooden base. In this embodiment, at the stage of forming a screed on the floor, anchors are placed on it strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and holes for fastening. As a result, they should protrude about 5-6 cm above the surface. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face a problem when the anchor is not enough to fix the nut on it.

A wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the base of the toilet bowl. Nails are hammered into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After that, turn the board over and install it in the place of the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After that, you can install the toilet in place and secure with screws.

Fixing a toilet bowl to a tile

When fixing the toilet under the nuts for the anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets that will protect the toilet from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty drips on the ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that at the end of their service life they can still be easily unscrewed.

For installation on an already finished surface, for example, on a tiled floor, fastening with dowels or epoxy is better, so as not to spoil the appearance of the coating.

At the same time, holes are made under the dowels through the tile and screed for their installation, into which screws are screwed. It is important not to make holes too deep, so as not to damage the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, then it is best to pour a little sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. A rubber gasket must be put on the screw. The toilet itself is best placed on a cushion of sealant and then pressed down with screws.

You can do without the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, it is enough to take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet bowl. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on the wall, because it is half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should walk with an abrasive stone or sandpaper on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin will normally adhere to the surface. After that, a layer of several millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and the toilet. After setting everything in its place, you should wait for the glue to dry completely.

Hanging solutions

It is getting more and more popular. The wall-hung toilet is installed on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to fix it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and already to it the toilet bowl itself in the event that it is supposed to hide the tank and pipes behind a plasterboard wall. In some cases, a hinged toilet with an open tank can be attached directly to the wall, but then it will be necessary to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is carried out using anchors mounted in a wall or frame.

How much will it cost to invite a specialist?

So, having familiarized yourself with the process of replacing the toilet bowl, you can compare do-it-yourself installation options and pay for the work of a plumber. On average, installing a toilet bowl costs from 400 to 1200 rubles, if you turn to private craftsmen. However, the cost of installation can increase significantly depending on the high cost of plumbing and the complexity of its installation.

Video: do-it-yourself toilet installation

Users who have dealt with the services of plumbing specialists know firsthand about the high prices for any plumbing work, even the smallest ones. Carrying out all operations, including the dismantling of old equipment, can result in a tidy sum, so installing a toilet bowl with your own hands will save someone significant financial resources.

Before installing a toilet bowl with your own hands, it is useful to study the technology for installing plumbing equipment, the rules for working with flooring, which is most often tile. Also, when carrying out work, you will need a standard household or construction power tool, fasteners that come with the toilet, or more reliable ones purchased from a distribution network.

Most often, new toilets are purchased for installation in apartments and private houses, sometimes they are placed in summer cottages, in the private sector in village-type toilets, using their old ones or buying second-hand products.

The distribution network presents an extensive range of different types of toilet bowls, depending on the design, installation, material of manufacture, they are divided into categories according to the following distinctive features.

The comfort, hygiene and functionality of using a sanitary ware depends on the execution of the bowl, there are three main designs:

funnel-shaped. In it, the drain hole is located in the center, the design ensures a thorough and quick removal of waste products, a significant drawback of this arrangement is the formation of a splash when waste falls. To get rid of splashes in a funnel-shaped design, an anti-splash function is often implemented by making a drain hole of small depth (30 - 40 mm) with a back slope.

poppet. It is a platform in which the drain funnel is pushed forward - this leads to the fact that the waste first enters and lingers on a flat platform, after which it is washed off with water. The disadvantage of the design is low hygiene, which requires too frequent use of the brush, so the dish-shaped form is considered obsolete and is practically not used in modern toilet bowls.

Kozyrkovaya. The most common bowl shape found in modern toilets, the drain hole is pushed forward, and the waste enters the funnel, going down the sloping bottom. To prevent splashing, there is a small ledge on the top of the drain to prevent splashing.

Recently, a new type of hygienic toilet bowl has appeared on the market, in which microbes have nowhere to hide, the design is called rimless and is a bowl with solid inner walls, which in appearance is not much different from the typical one.

Water supply during flushing

The water coming from the drain tank washes away the waste along the following trajectories:

direct flush. Water comes from the front of the flush hole - this causes increased noise, splashing, incomplete coverage of the bowl. The advantages of the design include durability and low cost, in addition to the disadvantages listed, the need for more frequent maintenance of the bowl can be cited.

Circular flush. With this arrangement, water jets move towards the waste in the center of the bowl from all sides - this allows you to process up to 95% of its surface with low noise and no splashing. Naturally, the price of a flush toilet is slightly higher than that of a direct flush design.

Release type

Sewer pipes in apartment buildings are usually placed in the walls, sometimes they are more aesthetically located in the floor (on the first floors of individual houses). Accordingly, the design of plumbing fixtures should take into account a similar arrangement of pipes, so toilets are produced with the following types of outlet pipes:

Horizontal. Toilets with such a tap are connected to vertically placed risers in the walls. A branch located parallel to the floor plane is convenient if the entry point to the vertical riser is technically impossible to locate at the level of the screed and you have to connect the device at some distance from the floor.

Usually, most modern toilets have this design because of its versatility - if you need to lower the entry point to the riser lower, use special corner adapters, eccentrics.

oblique. The release at an angle of 140 - 145 degrees is done in the toilets a little less often than a straight one, the bowl is connected to a vertical riser almost at floor level. The advantage of the design is the absence of stagnation in the corrugation - all waste completely drains into the sewer riser due to a significant slope. Modern toilets with an oblique outlet are less functional due to restrictions in connecting to a riser at a higher height.

Vertical. More often, toilets of this design are used in individual housing construction, where there is no need to use an interfloor riser. In this case, the device is put on a sewer pipe coming out of the floor using a straight adapter pipe.

Bowl placement method

Toilets must withstand not only their own weight, but also the mass of the person on the bowl, their design, depending on the location, is of the following types:

floor. In this modification of the classic type, the bowl has a flat base with two through holes through which it is attached to the floor with screws with dowels and anchor bolts. Floor sanitary equipment is designed for installation in spacious toilet rooms, the installation itself is simple and takes a minimum of time.

Note: One of the modern varieties of floor models are wall-mounted types that have a flat drain tank and a drain design that allows you to put the toilet close to the wall - this saves space in the toilet room.

Separately, you can select a special one, which has a triangular shape for installing a toilet bowl in the corner of the toilet. The corner model allows you to move away from established patterns when arranging a toilet room, is an original design solution, in some cases (square-shaped rooms) outperforms the traditional arrangement in practicality.

Suspended. The design allows you to hang the bowl on the wall, thanks to the reinforced body, it can withstand weight up to 400 kg. Usually, the flush tank of a wall-hung toilet is hidden in the wall, leaving a button on the surface to control its operation. Wall-hung toilets are designed for installation in a small toilet room and, thanks to the open floor, make it much easier to clean the room.

tank location option

The drain tank can be attached to the bowl or be located at some distance from it, supplying water through the pipeline, and the distance can be as long as desired.

Separate tank and bowl. This modification was widely used in the toilet rooms of the Soviet era, the tank rose high above the toilet bowl, and water entered the bowl through a long vertical pipeline. Such toilets are now little used due to the lack of a distribution network, with the exception of exclusive options for arranging residential premises in a certain design style.

Combined toilet. This is a classic model of the vast majority of toilet bowls, in which the tank is located directly on the bowl, which is its support. The advantage of the design is ease of installation - to install the toilet, two holes in the floor are enough, to which the base is screwed.

One of the varieties of the combined design toilet bowl is a creative version, which is a monoblock cast from one billet. The model does not require fastening the tank to the bowl with metal bolts through and sealing their butt joint with a rubber ring.

Hidden tank. A tank hidden behind a false wall is a recently popular type of installation called an installation; for its implementation, the tank is placed on a metal frame and hidden behind the wall lining, bringing the button that controls the drain to the surface. The bowl is placed on the floor or hung on the wall, the flush tank is usually made of plastic.

Water supply to the tank

For aesthetics and ease of placement, modern tanks are produced with a right or left lower water supply to the body, products with side holes for water supply are less common.

Manufacturing materials

The list of components from which toilet bowls are made is not too wide, the main ones are:

Porcelain. The material is a burnt mixture of clay, quartz sand, kaolin with other additives. Porcelain has low porosity, does not absorb odors, the service life of porcelain sanitary ware reaches 50 years. The disadvantages of porcelain include its fragility and high cost, inaccessible to many consumers.

Faience. The raw materials and technology for producing faience are similar to the production of porcelain, the material has a large porosity - this leads to a deterioration in hygienic indicators. It is well absorbed into the faience surface, odors are retained, therefore, all faience plumbing is covered with a dense water-repellent glaze during manufacture.

Due to their low cost, wide color palette, resistance to almost all aggressive chemicals, ease of maintenance, service life of at least 30 years, faience products are in great demand among consumers and are leaders in sales among other types of sanitary ware.

The disadvantages include the fragility of faience products, inherent in all ceramics, as well as the appearance of small cracks over time, weakening the material and changing color.

stainless steel. Toilet bowls made of metals, more precisely stainless steel, due to their lightness and strength, are usually installed in public places, mainly in land, sea and air transport (trains, planes, ships).

On sale you can find cast-iron enameled bowls without a tank under your feet, which in Soviet times were installed in rural-type public toilets. Now, with an increase in culture, they are not in high demand, but are still produced at obsolete production and sold in the distribution network.

Plastic. The current state of technology allows the production of plastic sanitary ware, as reinforced acrylic products have high strength, low porosity, and are easy to maintain. The disadvantages of polymers include low mechanical strength and susceptibility to thermal deformation.

Glass, stone. Natural and artificial stone, glass serve as materials for the exclusive manufacture of sanitary ware and, accordingly, have a prohibitive price for the average consumer. It is convenient to make a monoblock structure from artificial stone, imperceptibly and firmly connecting two castings (a bowl and a tank) with a liquid composition for their manufacture.

Removing an old toilet

Before you install the toilet yourself, you need to get rid of the old plumbing fixture. For the removal of the toilet by employees of specialized firms, you will have to pay about 500 rubles. - the amount is quite tangible for the average citizen, taking into account the fact that the work takes no more than half an hour of time and because of the simplicity any owner can afford.

Dismantling work when removing a typical floor-standing toilet is carried out in the following order:

• Shut off the water supply with a ball valve near the flexible pipe, drain water from the tank.
• Unscrew the inlet hose from the water pipe with an adjustable wrench.
• Proceed to remove the two mounting screws at the bottom. If they have a hex head, use a wrench, some old toilets may have been mounted on slotted screws, which makes them much more difficult to remove. Usually, fixing screws become rusty and salty as a result of long-term operation, deposits can be softened, dissolved with kerosene, household chemicals to remove limescale and rust stains in household plumbing, WD-40 grease.

Note: If there is no time or suitable solutions to dissolve rust and salt deposits, the old toilet is broken out of the fasteners by moving it to the sides or breaking the base near the screws with a hammer (chisel). Also, the toilet is broken when it is walled up or glued to the floor with a cement-sand mortar.

After removing the fasteners or destroying the base, the toilet is lifted and slightly tilted back to drain the water, and then taken out of the toilet room and placed on the floor with a tank against the wall to secure it from tipping over.

• The corrugation is disconnected from the toilet (if it was removed along with it), the cold water supply hose is unscrewed, and then the bowl with the tank attached to it is disposed of - the weight of the assembled structure is not so high for any healthy man.
• The screws remaining in the floor, if they have not been unscrewed, are not difficult to unscrew with pliers or, in extreme cases, cut off with a grinder (metal blade).
• Upon completion of all work, close the sewer hole with a rag (so that it does not get dirty, you can put it in a plastic bag), remove dirt from the toilet room.

Installing a new toilet

Installing the toilet in the toilet with your own hands is done using a puncher or a home drill with a beating function, you will need dowels with screws (included in the delivery), a wrench of a suitable size for screwing screws and the simplest household tool (tape measure, hammer, marker). Of the consumables, silicone grease and sealant may come in handy. Before installing the toilet bowl, the drain mechanism in the tank is assembled according to the operating instructions.

Types of fasteners to the floor

The bowl of a typical toilet bowl is attached to the floor in the following ways:

1. For dowels with screws. Most floor standing toilets come with two wall plugs and hex head screws. To fix the bowl, holes are drilled in the floor, dowels are driven in and screws are screwed into them with a wrench. There is a second type of fastening with dowels, in which studs with external threads are screwed in instead of hexagonal screws. After installing the bowl on the studs, it is fixed with union nuts.
2. For anchor bolts. The method is used when it is necessary to ensure high rigidity of fasteners. To do this, anchor bolts with an external thread are driven into the drilled holes, the bowl is fixed with union nuts. Instead of anchors, threaded studs can be used, which are embedded in the floor on cement mortar placed in drilled holes of a larger diameter.
3. On a wooden base. In Soviet times, toilets were placed on short pieces of wooden boards laid in recesses of concrete slabs and immured with a cement-sand screed. After removing the old toilet, you can use this fixing method, using a board instead of plastic dowels. In this case, after installing a new toilet in place of the old one, it is screwed to the floor with wood screws into the board. Since the diameter of the screw is quite large, holes are pre-drilled in the wooden base to facilitate screwing.

How to install corrugation on the toilet

The distribution network sells a wide range of elastic corrugations for connecting toilet bowls to a sewer drain, when the bowl has an oblique outlet, additional elements are unlikely to be needed when connected to a standard outlet with a diameter of 110 mm.

If the user has purchased a product with a direct outlet and the vertical pipe of the riser is located at a short distance from it below, in order to install the corrugation, a rigid adapter from a right angle to an inclined one (sometimes an eccentric is additionally installed) is required, placed on the bowl outlet pipe or in the sewer pipe.

Instead of a corrugated one, you can use a rigid connection of the bowl with a drain sewer pipe, which has less resistance to water flow and is more hygienic, however, it is more difficult to implement such a connection with your own hands, more expensive in terms of finances and time.

Corrugation to a typical toilet is connected as follows:

• To facilitate installation, lubricate the outer and inner surfaces of the corrugations at the points of contact with the bowl nozzle and the sewer pipe with silicone grease. You should not follow the lead of many plumbers who throw other people's money down the drain for silicone and cover the corrugation with silicone sealant that is absolutely useless in this application.
• They put the corrugation on the outlet pipe of the bowl, bring the toilet bowl to the sewer drain and place the other end into it.
• They put the toilet in the installation place, fill the drain tank and drain the water, checking the tightness of the connection with a dry piece of fabric, if wet spots appear on the fabric, slightly turn and move the corrugation, and then let it settle for some time.

Toilet installation step by step

After assembling the drain system in the tank, it is screwed to the bowl and the toilet bowl is fixed, the work is carried out in stages in the following sequence:

• A flexible hose is screwed to the drain tank, a corrugation is installed on the bowl, the toilet is brought into the toilet and connected to the water pipe and sewer drain in the above way.
• Turn on the water supply, after filling the tank, drain it and check the tightness of all connections at the connection points of the flexible piping and corrugations. If drops are not found, proceed to further operations, otherwise they press the flexible eyeliner or move the corrugation.
• Check the location of the toilet bowl: measure the distance from the base of the bowl to the opposite walls with a tape measure, making it the same, monitor the position of the drain tank, making sure that there is a small gap (10 - 20 mm) and its location is parallel to the back wall. Open inspection doors for review and access to, making sure there is no interference. By inserting a marker in the center of the holes in the base of the bowl, mark two mounting points for fasteners.

• Turn off the water supply with a ball valve, disconnect the flexible connection from the water pipe, drain the water, raise the toilet with a slight slope back and take it out of the toilet.

Important: Some plumbers make marks on the bowl without a tank to simplify and facilitate the work - this decision is fraught with errors and makes it difficult to choose the optimal location of the toilet without tracking the full picture.

• Next, they start drilling holes in the floor tiles (porcelain stoneware, gres, tiles, etc.) using a puncher or a household drill. To do this, a small piece of tile is very carefully beaten off with a sharp core, and a hole is made in it with a ceramic drill (feather type) in the normal rotation mode. The work is greatly simplified if the holes coincide with the tile seam.
• After drilling the tiles, change the drill in the puncher to a victorious one and switch the tool to the mode of simultaneous rotation and beating. The required immersion depth is marked with tape on the drill, taking into account the length of the screw and the thickness of the base of the toilet bowl, then holes are drilled.

Important: It should be noted that the dowels and screws often included with the toilet do not technically correspond to its mass, that is, on a floor with slight irregularities, the toilet will loosen in a short time and begin to swing on the ledges. Therefore, it is rational to purchase more powerful fasteners with dowels and bolts with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm in the distribution network - this will ensure a stable, reliable and durable fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor.

• After drilling the holes, dowels are carefully driven into them and the toilet bowl is taken into place, connected to the water supply, draining the sewer system, checking the correct operation of the tank and the presence of leaks. If there are no complaints, screw the toilet bowl to the floor with screws, be sure to place gaskets from the kit or purchased from the distribution network under the caps.
• At the end of the work, you should install the lid on the toilet according to the instructions, the procedure is quite simple and will not take much time.

Why you need a sealant

Many professional plumbers, due to the specifics of their work, are so accustomed to silicone sealant that they cannot do without its constant use in all cases, regardless of the costs - after all, the customer pays for the material. Therefore, when installing the toilet, most of them recommend slightly raising it above the floor and pumping one or two silicone tubes under the base to increase stability and protect against water leakage.

Silicone is not so expensive, but if the bowl is installed on a floor with high teeth, due to the constant deformation of the sealant during cleaning, its stability may be impaired over time, moreover, when the toilet is removed for a short time, its bottom will have to be silicone again. The sealant can be painlessly replaced with an elastic backing from a piece of linoleum by cutting it along the contour of the base.

In other situations, on a flat floor, instead of a sealant, it’s a good idea to put one or more layers of foamed polyethylene under the base, which is used as a substrate when laying a laminate, or replace it with similar materials - in almost all cases it costs nothing and you can save some money without buying silicone.

For a consumer with a low financial income, self-dismantling of the old toilet bowl with the installation of a new one will save the amount of about 3,000 rubles that he would have spent using the services of plumbers from specialized firms.

If you managed to figure out the instructions and install the drain system in the tank yourself, then carrying out further work will not cause any special difficulties for any owner, even in the absence of building skills.

When there is no power tool at home, the problem can be solved by borrowing a hammer drill from friends or by renting it from one of the specialized companies.

Nowadays, blinds have gained considerable popularity - they are installed both in private homes and in offices. Most often, installation of systems is carried out by specialists, but installing blinds on a plastic window with your own hands is also quite possible and does not even require any special skills or tools. You can install these curtains in several ways, the choice of which depends on the interior and functionality.

Varieties

Today in the assortment of hardware stores there are several varieties of blinds. Depending on the specific type, the features of attaching curtains change.

On sale you can find several varieties of horizontal blinds at once. The lamellas in them are installed horizontally, which is the reason for the name of the design. The thickness, width and type of material can be arbitrary. The design can be mounted inside the frame, to the frame itself, to the slope or on top of the window block.

Horizontal blinds are most often mounted in institutions

Install similar blinds in offices, production facilities and other places. These designs are universal - if desired, you can find horizontal blinds of almost any color and shade.

Due to the design features, such blinds are most often mounted on top of windows.. The slats in this case are oriented vertically, made of plastic or fabric. There are varieties on the market that differ in the length of the lamellas.

Vertical blinds are mainly installed in residential areas.

Installation of this model is most often done in private homes, but they are also in demand in offices. Installation of vertical blinds is carried out on self-tapping screws. As an alternative, ceiling mounting is practiced.

Roller blinds are made of fabric, completely cover the glass, if desired, they can be raised by rolling into a roll. Installation is carried out using brackets, self-tapping screws or adhesive tape.

Roller blinds can be installed without drilling walls and shutters - on double-sided tape

The need for drilling varies depending on the type:

1. Vertical structures are mounted on top of the window or under the ceiling. In both cases, you will have to drill the surface.
2. Horizontal blinds can be attached to the top slope or window sashes. Without drilling, such structures can be mounted on the sashes of the window block.
3. Interframe analog, as you might guess from the name, is designed to be installed inside the window itself. This option requires drilling the largest number of holes.

Preparation and measurements

To install the blinds, you will need the following tool:

• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• pencil or marker;
• roulette.

So that all efforts are not in vain, it is important to correctly and accurately perform measurements - only then the design will work efficiently. In addition, it must be absolutely symmetrical to the double-glazed window. Blinds attached with adhesive tape are more tolerant of errors - if desired, they can be corrected. For analogs with fastening on self-tapping screws, it will be necessary to make additional holes, which is unlikely to benefit the beauty of the window, flaws are unacceptable here.

At the first stage of installation, blinds measure the width and height of the window.

For the correct location of the structure relative to the window and floor level, you will need to measure the following parameters:

• window opening dimensions;
• length to the bottom edge of the curtain;
• distance between fasteners.

For horizontal blinds mounted on sashes, you will need to additionally measure the dimensions of each glass. To the results obtained, add 2 cm to the upper and lower edges and 0.5 cm to the sides.

Installation of vertical blinds

Installing vertical blinds is actually not as difficult a process as it might seem at first, and anyone can handle this task. If the length of the curtain is small, then the installation is carried out inside the window opening. Otherwise, the structure is installed under the ceiling or on the wall.

The algorithm of actions here is as follows:

Installation of chains and lamellas. After attaching the cornice, there will be very little left - hang the slats, start the runners, and also attach the control chain. An important point: the lamellas must be hung in the same order in which they are in the box. Otherwise, you can ruin the entire drawing (if any).

Installation of horizontal blinds

Mounting horizontal blinds on plastic windows is somewhat more complicated. The main thing is to clearly follow the instructions:

1. The first step is to fix the upper fasteners. This is done with a screwdriver. First, holes are prepared, after which the bracket is attached with screws.
2. We hang the cornice. It should be fastened until it clicks.
3. The holes for the lower mounts are drilled by hand. When choosing a diameter, one should take into account the dimensions of the thread retainer connecting the lamellas. Most often, horizontal blinds require additional openings on the sides. This helps to insert the latch connected to the lamella web into the corners.

When installing horizontal blinds yourself, you must carefully follow the instructions

Important: self-assembly is required to be done as carefully as possible. Very often, the slightest mistake turns into the fact that the whole structure functions incorrectly..

In the case of roller blinds, there are several mounting options at once, so before starting, you should choose the most convenient one. The first is mounting on self-tapping screws, which in essence is no different from the option described above, the second is on a special adhesive tape, which is used instead of self-tapping screws, and in the third, the roller blind is hung on the sash.

To fix roller blinds use brackets or adhesive tape

Important: do not forget about the degreasing of plastic - it will help to significantly improve the adhesion of materials.

Interframe curtains

Interframe curtains are used only for double frames. Installation of this type of blinds is somewhat more complicated than the previous ones, and the process itself will result in an inevitable violation of the integrity of the profile: you will have to drill at least two holes through which the handle and cord to control the system will be pulled out.

The curtains themselves are mounted in the inner sash, more precisely - in its upper part, and the bracket - directly to the upper profile. Installation of the structure is in many ways similar to working with horizontal blinds.

Interframe curtains are installed in double-glazed windows

Do-it-yourself installation of the system is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. The window frame is untwisted, and the blinds are applied to the inner sash. This is used to check if the dimensions match.
2. Markings are made for fastening, as well as the points for the output of the cord and the control knob, after which holes with a diameter of about 5 mm are drilled.
3. The brackets are inserted into the calipers, the cords and control knobs are brought out, and the cord is through the bottom hole.
4. Interframe blinds are attached to the sash with special interframe brackets.
5. An adapter is installed on the frame, and a control handle is connected to the flexible output.
6. The lock of the control handle and cord is installed.
7. The frame rolls back.

The blind control element is brought out through the frame

As you can see, the technology for installing blinds on plastic windows without drilling is completely inappropriate here. The principle itself resembles the installation of all other design options, with the only difference being that you have to disassemble the frame, screw the bracket into the space between the frames, and remove the controls through the drilled holes.

In order for the blinds to be able to serve for many years, some operating rules should be observed:

1. When buying, you should carefully check the complete set and all equipment, especially fasteners. They must be of high quality.
2. The adjustment mechanism should be chosen wisely - it should be on the side convenient for operation.
3. Make sure that no one opens the windows when the blinds have not yet been fully folded.
4. The rotary knob must not interfere with or touch other fittings.
5. Do not forget about periodic maintenance.
6. Installing blinds on windows is quite possible and do-it-yourself, but it is better to entrust its repair to a professional.
7. Plastic structures are preferable: it is much easier to care for them.
8. Do not clean the system too often, this will only lead to rapid wear of the protective layer.

Installing the device with your own hands, as you can see, is a very simple matter, whether it be metal, plastic or wooden blinds on plastic windows. The main thing is to have high-quality instructions at hand. Thanks to this material, you can hang the blinds as quickly and efficiently as possible.

In order for the blinds on the window to serve for a long time, it is important to know how to install horizontal blinds correctly, in accordance with the technology. Although this task does not seem to be such a difficult process at first glance, there are many nuances that must be taken into account during installation work. If you are not completely sure that you can handle the mount yourself, contact the experts.

Necessary tools and preparation

The first thing to decide is the installation method. Installation of horizontal blinds can be done in a window opening, on a frame, against a wall or ceiling. The mounting method depends on how the measurements were taken. If the overall dimensions of the product are larger than the window opening, then it will need to be fixed on the opening. In this case, you need to decide whether they will be attached to the wall or to the ceiling. If the product is the size of the window - into the window opening.

Installation requires the following tools:

• roulette;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• pencil;
• screwdriver;
• screws, dowels and brackets.

Before starting the installation work, it is necessary to carry out the appropriate markup.

Marking requires special accuracy, since it is very important that the blinds do not interfere with the operation of the window, and the operation of the window sashes is blinds.

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Fastening technology

After the preparatory work, you can proceed to the installation of the product. It is necessary to drill holes with a screwdriver and insert dowels into them in accordance with the markings made. After that, you can proceed to fixing the brackets with self-tapping screws.

It is necessary to deploy and assemble the device, in accordance with the overall dimensions, mark with a pencil the places where the brackets are attached. In this case, it should be taken into account that the bracket must not get into the place of fastening of the latch or control system. The distance between the brackets should be about 60 cm.

As a rule, the product is mounted on 2 brackets, but for larger sizes, it is better to attach an additional bracket for reliability and to reduce the load. It should also be installed near the control mechanism, since it is in this place that the device is subjected to the greatest load.

The brackets are arranged in such a way that the upper cornice simply snaps into them. The product must be fully assembled before attaching it to the brackets. With the top bar firmly fixed in the bracket, turn its latch counterclockwise until it stops. In a similar way, the product is attached both to the wall and to the ceiling or upper slopes. The only difference is the way the brackets are mounted. They have holes for both types, horizontally located holes for mounting to the wall and vertically located - to the ceiling or the upper slope. After installation, you should check the operation of the mechanism.

If you want to mount the product directly on the frame of a plastic window close to the double-glazed window, you must use fasteners specifically for PVC windows. In this case, the usable area of ​​the window and window sill is not occupied. Blinds fit snugly against the sash and open with it. For this option, installation without drilling is best suited.