We understand the pie of the floor of a frame house on screw piles. Insulation of the floor in a frame house on piles: step-by-step instructions, features and recommendations Wooden floor on screw piles

A timber frame house on stilts should have a light but warm floor. This norm is due to the need not to overload the base of the building. The structure is created solid, insulated, ensuring comfortable living in the house. The floors are built in a frame house on piles, taking into account some of the features that are taken into account during the construction of the building.

Features of installing floors in a frame house on piles

The foundations of such a structure in Moscow and other regions of the Russian Federation have some nuances. An air space separates the lower part of the house from the surface of the earth. The absence of specially equipped cladding, the presence of decorative closure of the perimeter of the piles leaves the outer part of the floors unprotected from the influence of negative temperatures.

Arrangement of a concrete base will require time, additional financial costs. This option will lead to an increase in the load on the piles, which is not always acceptable. The creation of a full-fledged sheathing around the perimeter with the organization of an underground space is also not a cheap option. Often, financial constraints do not allow equipping a high basement.

What to make the floor of

The building material for the arrangement of the structure is wood. For an inexpensive frame, subfloor, ordinary coniferous timber, boards are used. It is better to use aspen, oak, but their cost is higher. The wood from these trees is durable, not subject to decay. For rough floor coverings, the following are used:

plywood;
boards;

The finish depends on the premises where it will be installed. In bathrooms, it is preferable to use tiles. In living quarters, floors are mainly made from the following materials:

solid wood boards;
parquet;
glued parquet board;
parquet boards from solid wood.

Important: It is first necessary to treat wooden building materials with a special composition that prevents rotting, an antiseptic.

An inexpensive option is glued wooden building material, but its service life is short. Optimally, a solid board, which is considered the most wear-resistant material.

Floor supporting structures

The arrangement of the floors begins immediately after the installation of the piles. First, their surface is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. It is laid on the piles, a wooden strapping from a bar is attached, on which logs are installed. To do this, use inexpensive conifers, aspen, oak. The size of the bars is not less than 10x10 cm. Well-dried wood, without defects, is laid. The step between the beams is made 0.5 m.

In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars are inserted, on which the subfloor is laid. After its installation, waterproofing is performed.

The waterproofing material should fit the joists and go to the walls. Otherwise, it will not be possible to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.

The following are used as insulation:

film;
special membrane with perforations;
isol, its derivatives.

Fastening is carried out to a wooden structure with a stapler, construction tape. At the joints of the strips, a fly-fishing of waterproofing sheets is necessarily done.

How to insulate the floor

Insulation can be done with several materials. The main ones are:

expanded polystyrene;
foil insulation;
penoizol;
ecowool;
cork material;
mineral wool;
polystyrene concrete.

After laying the waterproofing layer, the selected type of insulation is placed between the logs. Each of them has its own advantages. An inexpensive option is the use of glass wool, mineral wool. On sale they can be in rolls, plates. Laying is done between the lags. Glass wool must be handled with care. After its placement, insulation is made so that dust does not enter the room.

Important! When using these materials for insulation of floors, it is necessary to leave gaps for ventilation.

When arranging the floor, cranial bars are attached to the logs, on which the lower subfloor is installed from plywood, OSB boards or boards. Waterproofing is laid on top of the log with sagging in the gaps. After that, the selected thermal insulation material is placed. From above, the constructive "pie" is closed with a vapor barrier material and the floor is installed.

Warm floor

You can make more effective insulation by installing an additional warm floor. Plywood sheets are laid on the boards of the lower filing. After that, the waterproofing is installed. Expanded polystyrene is chosen as a heat-insulating material.

An important point! The surface of the insulation should be flush with the upper edge of the log. The vapor barrier film is laid with the calculation of the spade on the walls, above the level of the future finish coating.

A reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the vapor barrier, which is poured with a thin layer of concrete mortar. After it has set, a layer of foil insulation with reflective properties is laid. The next step is the installation of heating mats, installation of the system. After checking the performance, a concrete screed is made. After the surface has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the finishing coating.

Installation of floor coverings

After finishing the installation of the insulation, a layer of boards with a thickness of 30 mm is installed. The distance between the boards is chosen from 0.4-0.5 m. The lathing, made along the logs, allows you to provide an air gap and ventilation.

Further installation consists in the installation of the subfloor. To do this, use a regular board or grooved board. Fastening to the crate is made with self-tapping screws. Pre-selected flooring can be installed on the sub-floor.

In the bath, toilet instead of rough boards, OSB, plywood are laid, and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then additional waterproofing is done. After the preparatory work, the tiles are laid. Installation of the floor is not difficult, if you have experience in construction work, all processes can be performed independently.

Foundations on screw piles are not uncommon in frame housing construction. Taking into account the peculiarities of the building, a number of requirements are imposed on the floor of the first floor. The foundation should not only be strong, but also lightweight so as not to overload the piles. The heat-insulating aspect is no less significant. How to combine these characteristics and properly arrange the floor? Let's try to figure it out.

Floor specifics and requirements for its arrangement

The foundation of a frame on screw piles has many advantages. Among the main advantages are:

affordable cost;
short construction time;
versatility - suitable for sites with difficult terrain and floating grounds.

Despite the significant advantages, the floor of a frame house on screw piles has a clear drawback - a blown underground. Therefore, one of the main tasks of arranging the base is high-quality insulation and waterproofing. Thermal insulation cake solves a number of problems:

acts as a barrier between wooden structures and moisture, preventing the appearance of mold and floor decay;
increases the energy efficiency of the house;
prevents the appearance of condensation on the surface of the floors.

In the course of flooring work, it is necessary to take into account a number of important points and requirements. The developer must provide:

Treatment of the lower floor strapping with an antiseptic. A deep penetrating compound should be used, since conventional impregnation wears out after 6-7 years.
Placement of insulation between the lags.
Pile pick-up. Thermal insulation of the basement reduces heat loss, prevents the soil from freezing under the house and is part of the decor.
Ventilation products. Arrangement of holes with a diameter of 10 cm, the total area of the ventilation ducts is 1/400 of the perimeter of the base.

The general scheme of the floor of a frame house

The upper strapping of beams along the fundamental supports is at the same time lags, which in itself reduces the cost of the construction budget. The construction cake of the floor has the following scheme:

Rough floor. The base frame is assembled from the lathing and bottom hem. Used as a substrate: edged board, chipboard, OSB or plywood.
Waterproofing. The best option is a perforated membrane, the alternative is a film.
Insulation. Insulating material options: extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay.
Vapor barrier. Prevents the formation of condensation and wetting of the insulation layer.
Sub-basis. The choice of further technology depends on the type of floor covering.

If you plan to lay parquet, laminate or floorboard, then on the floor lay plywood... For decoration with tiles or linoleum, a dry screed is suitable. The "water floor" system is installed in a self-leveling screed.

Selection of structural elements and materials

The reliability, durability and thermal efficiency of the floor largely depend on the materials used. Let's consider the acceptable options and mark the unacceptable solutions.

Attention to the quality of floor beams

In frame housing construction, wood is predominantly used for tying screw piles. Usually they take sawn softwood: larch, pine and spruce.

The main requirement is application of dried materials... The moisture content of the timber should not exceed 12%, otherwise deformation of structural parts after their installation is possible.

Arrangement of the grillage is possible in several ways:

Laying a monolithic timber measuring 20 * 15 cm.When building a two-story house, you can use a 20 * 20 cm beam.
A grillage from assembled boards. A budget option. Each beam is formed from two to three planks. At the exit, you should get a bar with a section of 20 * 15 cm.

With reliable fixing of boards, the "batch" method is not inferior in strength solid beam strapping.

Bottom cladding options

When choosing a material for the sub-base, it must be remembered that it is undesirable to overload screw piles. Therefore, the sheathing must be strong enough, but not heavy. Its main task is to protect against wind and moisture.

What will fit? There are several options here:

OSB. An affordable material that has good strength but is vulnerable to water. Before installation requires treatment with a compound designed to protect wood. The weak point is the joints of the plates. They must be sealed with acrylic sealant.
Chipboard. Easy to process, but like OSB, vulnerable to moisture. Inferior to the previous material for environmental friendliness.
Multi-layer plywood. It is permissible to use only moisture-resistant sheets marked with FC or FSF. The composition contains formaldehyde resins - they increase the resistance of the material to an aggressive environment.

Very often, for the construction of a subfloor, ordinary flooring of boards with a cross section of 5 * 10 cm is used. This option cannot be called economical, but the strength and environmental friendliness are beyond doubt. The main requirement is preliminary wood processing.

Insulation - the basis of floor insulation

When choosing a heat-insulating material, the main focus is on the possibility of its operation in a humid environment. The most rational solutions:

Mineral wool... The best solution is basalt fiber mats. Pros: environmental friendliness, incombustibility, low thermal conductivity, deformation resistance, minimum water absorption - 2%. Over time, stone wool shrinks only 5% - with proper installation, cold bridges are not formed at the joints with the logs.
Extruded polystyrene foam... Leader in insulating properties. Additional advantages: elasticity and resistance to deformation, lack of water absorption, biostability, ease of installation. Disadvantages: high cost and flammability.
Expanded clay... A budgetary alternative to insulating sheets. It is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation characteristics to mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. An important plus is fire safety.

To insulate the floor in a frame house on screw piles, foam is sometimes used. The main advantages: good thermal protection and low cost. However, upon contact with moisture and under the influence of low temperatures, the material loses its structural integrity. This solution is applicable in warm regions.

Step-by-step installation of the floor on a pile foundation

Let us describe the sequence of actions for arranging and insulating the floor of the frame on screw piles. They start work after careful preparation of wooden elements: treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant composition.

Strapping device and lathing fastening

Suppose that the piles are installed, the metal heads for fixing the beams are fixed. Further progress of work:

Drill four holes on each "foot" of the screw supports.
Lay waterproofing on the heads, for example, roofing material.
Along the perimeter of the structure, lay out the beams and connect the elements together "in half a tree".
Attach the beams to the heads with self-tapping screws.
Insert the remaining beams inside the perimeter.
Additionally connect the trim parts with steel brackets.
Check the horizontal placement of the beams.
Fill the crate to the bottom of the beams - the base for attaching the underframe.

Rough base and thermal insulation

Lay sheets of OSB, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the guide rails. If edged boards are used, then they must be nailed perpendicular to the logs.

After preparing the subfloor, they begin to isolate it:

Cover the base with a waterproofing film.
Place insulation in the cells between the lags. When cutting mineral wool, it is necessary to provide a margin of 0.5 cm on each side for the most snug fit and preventing the appearance of cold bridges.
Spread a vapor barrier membrane over the insulation with an overlap between the canvases. Glue the joints with construction tape.

Subsequent actions depend on the type of flooring.

Creation of the thermal contour of the base / plinth

The device of the floor in the house on piles necessarily provides for driving the basement. The following methods of insulating finishing are possible:

Brickwork. The basis is a cushion of rubble and sand. The pick-up is laid out in a half-brick, reinforcement is not necessary. For work, use ceramic or clinker bricks.
Siding. Thermoplates are mounted on a crate made of a galvanized profile or bar, assembled on piles.
Decking. Girders are welded to the bored posts, which serve as the basis for attaching the profiled sheet.
DSP. Sheet material is mounted by analogy with a profiled sheet. The outer part can be decorated with flexible tiles, porcelain stoneware.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing the underground part, it is necessary to provide for "vents" - openings for natural ventilation.

The blind area of the house is laid out from a concrete screed, paving slabs or paving stones. When arranging, it is necessary to maintain a slope angle of 4 ° outward. It is imperative to seal the junction of the false plinth cladding c. This will prevent melt water and precipitation from entering underground.

The nuances of arranging a warm floor

Warm on piles is performed using a water circuit or heating mats.

Arrangement scheme

After installing plywood or OSB on the bars and waterproofing the subfloor, sheets of expanded polystyrene should be laid in the gaps between the logs. The top surface of the slabs should be flush with the strapping.
Spread a vapor barrier on top of the insulation, leaving a reserve of film around the entire perimeter based on the height of the finished floor.
Lay the reinforcing mesh, fill it with a thin layer of cement-sand mortar and leave until completely solidified.
Spread the foil backing, shiny side up.
Lay out underfloor heating mats and fill with concrete screed.

In the process of setting, the solution must be periodically moistened so that cracks do not appear. After final hardening, you can lay topcoat.

Video: how to make a screed

Arrangement and a frame on a pile foundation do not present any difficulties. But with all the simplicity of implementation, the process requires the performer to be attentive and comply with all technological nuances.

I made my choice in favor of the pile-screw foundation rather quickly. Of course, I had to study some literature, but the main argument was the choice of neighbors in our summer cottage village. And most of them settled on this particular technology. Our soils are porous, saturated with moisture (the river is nearby), the relief is uneven, so piles are a technically sound option. And taking into account the savings in time and money, it is also very profitable.

Of course, I understood that the screw piles would become a reliable support for my future "family nest" only if the technology of their installation was strictly observed. Therefore, the option "with your own hands" dismissed immediately and turned to the specialists of "Timerline" (on the recommendation of all the same neighbors). The guys worked, and I, as an interested and inquisitive person, tried to delve into all the nuances. Everything was done efficiently and quickly - in just 6 days.

Protection from the seven winds

On the one hand, a ventilated space under the house is not bad, since the premises are separated from soil and moisture. But the unhindered access of cold to the building, of course, makes itself felt. Therefore, the insulation must be of high quality.

First of all, you need to provide access to sex lags. If the floors are already laid, they will have to be lifted or partially dismantled. This is necessary for the construction of a subfloor or other method of fixing the insulation.

We equip the rough floor

To do this, the so-called lags are nailed to the lags. cranial bar that supports the floorboards. Each structural element must be pre-treated with a special antiseptic to prevent wood from rotting. Many people make the mistake of "plugging" the tree, i.e. covering it with bituminous mastic. Having lost the ability to "breathe", natural material deteriorates even faster.

When arranging a subfloor, you need to decide in advance on the type of insulation, since its weight is decisive for determining the calculation of the strength of the structure. For example, the use of lightweight mineral wool allows you to make flooring from sheet materials (for example, the same plywood). When using rigid insulators - polystyrene, expanded polystyrene - it is better to replace the subfloor with a mesh.

Of course, the strength of the screw foundation is always calculated with a margin, but still it should not be unnecessarily overloaded. The lighter the insulating materials and the higher thermal conductivity they have, the better.

A few words about vapor barrier

Moisture needs to be cut off at the entrance. The quality of the vapor barrier material is another component of the durability of the insulation "pie". In the presence of airflows, a layer of ordinary film or roofing material will quite cope with this task, but it is still better to use modern membrane materials that preserve moisture exchange, but do not allow atmospheric moisture and condensate to pass through. A layer of vapor barrier is laid directly on the insulation, carefully and accurately, without leaving gaps - cold bridges that can destroy the insulation.

Finishing floor: a variety of choices

For the finished floor, you can use any materials: from chipboard and laminate to floorboards. Since my house was built of wooden beams, of course, I wanted to use only natural materials for decoration. Therefore, I chose a pine board - inexpensive, environmentally friendly, moreover, it allows you to maintain a single style of both the architecture of the building and the interior. And the smell ... Those who are lucky enough to live in a wooden house will understand me!

And for those who choose a different finish for the finished floor, one more piece of advice: do not forget that each material requires appropriate preparation, including different soundproofing pads and the distance between them. This also affects the quality of the insulation.

And, of course, my wish: may your house be light, cozy, and most importantly - warm! Both in the literal and figurative sense of the word!

If you decide to build a frame country house, then you should pay attention to the designs of all building elements. The roof, walls (street, interior), ceilings and floors are made in the form of a "pie", a multi-layer structure. If all the technology is followed, then in fact we get a thermos.

The technological process of arranging each element of the building offers a different sequence and combination of components of a multilayer structure.

So for the roof its own set of layers, for the floor and your own. In this article we will consider with you the features of the "pie" of the floor of a frame house, installation methods.

Before choosing a floor material, you should decide on the type of foundation.

In most cases, frame houses are erected on or on a type foundation. This is primarily due to the fact that the house is not heavy up to 16 tons. And the pile foundation is the cheapest, since it does not require the use of special construction equipment. Therefore, we will assume that the foundation of our house has a pile appearance.

For the reliability of the insulation, a double layer is laid. Also, instead of a timber, you can use boards with a width of 15-25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 cm. The laying technology is the same on the edge.

For attics, the subfloor must be strong to withstand the weight of the insulation and an adult. Usually in the attic, glass wool (insulation) is left open, so the entire load falls on the rough floor of the attic.

To protect all wooden structures, they use special antiseptic agents and penetrating compounds. But there are small nuances, it is better to process everything before installation, each element separately.

If the height allows, then the subfloor is stuffed from below directly onto the supporting beams. As it was said above, everything must be treated with protective agents.

The second method is to make secondary guides on top of the lag, but this method has not become widespread, since it will require additional costs.

In most cases, the foundation is low and cranial bars are used, which are made of a 5 x5 cm bar. Which are attached to the bottom of the log or beam, using self-tapping screws or nails.

Around this place, it is better to use basalt glass wool, the boards are well treated with a penetrating compound.

And the surface of the finished floor is covered with a metal sheet or a sheet of asbestos.

Pile foundation plinth

When using heat-reflecting plates, the upper layer of the subfloor is arranged a little differently.

To begin with, we change the thickness of the board from 4 cm to 5 cm and the fasteners are scattered, leaving space for pipes. So that the heating pipe fits together with the plate.
On top of the resulting layer, you can lay a final finishing coating (laminate, etc.).

Using a concrete screed.

We wait until the screed is completely dry.

This method is rarely used. Since the weight of the resulting layer is very large. And also in case of damage to the pipe, you will have to disassemble everything.

Conclusion

As we can see from all of the above, the technology of a frame house is not a complicated process, you should strictly follow the instructions, device and sequence of the multilayer structure.

Everything can be done independently, without the use of specific devices and tools.

If you are building a house for yourself, you should not skimp on materials. Use only approved manufacturers.

The microclimate in the house depends on the correctly chosen thickness, as well as on the observance of the sequence of the laid layers of the "pie".

I am designing a one-story frame house on screw piles with an area of 100 sq. Estimated floor cake: fine mesh for mice, PPS 25-200 mm, edged board 25 mm, vapor barrier layer, PPS 25-50 mm, concrete screed 50 mm with mesh, warm floor.

The fact is that the subfloor board will be purchased in winter and will lie under a canopy until installation in the summer (already when the house is under the roof). It will dry out, I think, up to 20%. I plan to pour concrete two months after the floor.

Tell me if there are any pitfalls here, in particular:

1. Will the PE shrinkage affect the screed?
2. Will the teaching staff help to minimize the changes in the state of emergency.
3. Will the given floor option rot (on the heat calculation it seems to be the norm).
4. Whether the sound insulation will suffer greatly from the use of PPP.

The "pie" you described on the ground floor on the ground floor, which you plan to arrange in your own home, is at least irrational. As a maximum, in a year the other floor will have to be disassembled and redone. We strongly advise you to abandon this design and here's why:

You yourself have doubts whether the wooden planks located between the layers of airtight insulation will rot. We confirm your guess: they will definitely rot. Moreover, regardless of how well you dry them and what you saturate them with. Without ventilation, the wood will be attacked by fungus. Biodegradable building materials must not be placed in structures where moisture can not be removed. And one more thing: it is completely incomprehensible why you need this layer of 25 mm boards at all. Indeed, without a frame or a lag (there is no mention of their presence in your letter), boards of a bearing function will not perform and are not a black floor. Moreover, if they are not attached to the base (we repeat, you do not have a frame), the wood will "twist" over time. You cannot pour the screed two months after laying the lower layers of the floor according to your scheme, the boards and insulation will already be deformed, the structure will have to be disassembled. Even if you manage to initially pick up even boards and pour the screed immediately, until they are warped, it is not a fact that reinforced concrete (in fact, a cement-sand mortar) will withstand deformations and will not crack someday.

The mistake is that for some reason you are trying to invent a hybrid structure: combine wooden load-bearing elements (in fact, the flooring without a frame will not hold the load) and monolithic concrete. Don't come up with know-how, you don't need to. Benefit from expertly developed and proven technologies.

"Correct" designs, reliable and durable

There are two options, wireframe and monolithic:

Let's take a look at the layers sequentially, starting at the bottom and moving up:

The base - it should be as flat and strong as possible. We do not know what kind of soil you have, so see for yourself what to add: crushed stone, ASM, sand and in what layer. In any case, the base must be well compacted. Perhaps it makes sense to make a foundation.
As a base, you can use compacted soil with seeded sand, which is easy to trim in place.
Insulation from moisture in the base is required. On a footing or compacted soil, you can lay a roll of bitumen waterproofing by gluing the panels together and be sure to put them on the wall. Or it is good to spill it with molten bitumen, mastic. You can save money by using an inexpensive vapor barrier film instead of waterproofing. But it should not be laid on the ground (it can break), but between the layers of insulation.
Insulation. What the layer should be, we cannot say without knowing the climatic conditions of your region. In any case, the more, the better, especially considering that it is necessary to prevent the thermal energy of the heated floors from leaking down into the ground. Any sufficiently tough non-hygroscopic and non-rotting effective insulation will do: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), foam. Probably, by PSP (this is a common abbreviation for expanded polystyrene), you meant inexpensive PSB-S-25 foam. But not the fact that it will suit you. There are no unequivocal rules on what the brand of foam should be for the installation of monolithic floors. Much depends on the load: for example, in the place where the piano or a large aquarium will stand, it is better to put not foam, but strong foam glass. For heavy furniture - PSB-S-50 maximum density or EPS. In monolithic floors, we would not recommend using expanded polystyrene with a density below 25 kg / m3, with a lower resistance to compression, the density may be insufficient, there is a possibility of floor deformation.
Note! The number 25 in the designation of the PSB-S-25 brand means not the real, but the limiting (highest) density. In fact, in accordance with GOST 15588-86, a manufacturer can sell products with a density of 15.1 to 25 kg / m3 under this brand.

Naturally, many are trying to save on raw materials. We recommend that you buy PSB-S-35 expanded polystyrene for a monolithic floor, the density of which should be 25.1-35 kg / m3, or try to find an "honest" PSB-S-25, the density of which would be closer to the maximum. You can determine it by weighing the required amount of material.

The insulation should be laid in such a way that the joints of the foam sheets overlap, the slots can be filled with construction foam.

Insulation sheets are laid with overlapping joints
Reflective foil. The reflective foil surface reflects heat radiation and saves you up to 2.5% of thermal energy, reducing fuel costs. If you decide to install not just foil, but a layer of foamed polyethylene foam (additional thermal insulation), the reflective surface should be directed upward into the room.
Reinforced concrete screed, thickness 50-60 mm. Concrete, even with fine aggregate, should be laid between pipes and mesh, and it will be difficult to grind, most likely, you will prefer to use a cement-sand mortar. Brand - not less than 150, better than 200. We recommend adding a plasticizer to it during the preparation of the solution, the screed will turn out denser and it will be easier to smooth it. If you order a ready-made solution, you can ask to add a plasticizer on the mixing unit (delivery by a dump truck) or pour it into the mixer tank (delivery by a concrete mixer). During the manufacture of the screed, the underfloor heating pipes must be filled with water or compressed air under operating pressure. Floor heating can be turned on no earlier than a month after the screed is made, the temperature is raised smoothly for three days.
Do not forget that the floor screed, if necessary, is separated by expansion joints: the maximum size of a whole section should not exceed 40 m2, and the length on either side should be 8 m.

Expansion joints must not cross the underfloor heating contours; only supply lines can pass through them in the insulating casing

Also, along the perimeter of the premises along the walls, a damper (coastal) tape must be laid - a strip of elastic material (we recommend using expanded polystyrene foam) with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
Optimal from a thermotechnical point of view, options for covering a heated floor are facing with ceramic, porcelain stoneware tiles, natural stone. These materials transfer heat in the best way and do not deform. Tile adhesive should be specially designed for underfloor heating and have increased elasticity. We do not recommend using parquet and solid wood boards, they will dry out. Acceptable options: laminate, linoleum, not very thick carpet.

Another very important question that you will certainly encounter is the thermal insulation of the basement. Since you have a frame house, on screw piles, you will have to figure out how to make a strong and aesthetic pick-up. There are many options, it can be a frame (wooden or steel), sewn up with siding or asbestos-cement slabs.

The easiest way is to arrange a frame around the house, sheathe it from the outside and insulate it well from the inside.

Vinyl basement siding is expensive, but beautiful and requires no finishing or maintenance. Both the siding and the frame must not be lowered to ground level, in cold weather it can rise. The gap can be closed with a steel apron

Asbestos-cement sheets are much cheaper

You can lay the basement with small-sized concrete blocks, rubble or brickwork.

Under the stone foundation, you will have to make a concrete base

The main thing is to insulate the outer perimeter well and prevent the soil from freezing under the house. The best option is to insulate not only the basement, but also the blind area, as they do everywhere in the cold Scandinavian countries.

The diagram shows how the joint warming of the basement and the blind area changes the nature of soil freezing. The ground under the building (if it is heated) never freezes, which eliminates frost-heaving deformations and helps to reduce operating costs. Use EPS as insulation

And finally. Monolithic floors can be made not only after installing the box at home, but also before, immediately after installing the screw supports and tying them into a common grillage with horizontal elements. With the right approach, it is faster and cheaper.

In countries with a developed construction industry, monolithic floors on the ground are usually arranged before the walls are installed, it is easier. In the photo there is a strip foundation, but the technology is also suitable for a pile foundation. Before starting work, you need to have a detailed project for the placement of communications

About soundproofing

If the floor is monolithic, the upper concrete layer will absorb all noise and vibrations. In the case when the floor is frame and covered with a laminate, you will hear a "clatter" when walking in shoes with a solid sole. Perhaps mice living underground will be a little noisy.