The best protection for wood from rotting and moisture. Protection of wood from moisture by means of impregnation

Ecology of consumption. Manor: Wood is the main building material used for the construction of houses, baths, gazebos and other objects. However, the stylish appearance and high natural characteristics of this material can be seriously damaged by sudden rotting, constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation or moisture.

Wood is the main building material used for the construction of houses, baths, gazebos and other objects.

However, the stylish appearance and high natural characteristics of this material can be seriously spoiled by sudden rotting, constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation or moisture.

How to deal with decay

Causes

The most common causes of rot:

  • contact with damp earth;
  • freezing;
  • high air humidity;
  • frequent temperature changes.

Remedies - antiseptics

You can stop the rotting process of a tree with the help of antiseptics.

They are capable of:

  • prevent cracks in the wooden surface;
  • avoid fading;
  • protect wood from rotting and the negative effects of moisture.

Depending on the material, which is the main antiseptic, they are divided into:

  1. oily antiseptics. They are often used for lining, which is in difficult climatic conditions, as well as for wood that needs enhanced protection;
  2. water-soluble antiseptics. They are less concentrated, so they are used for the prevention and temporary protection of wood in contact with water;
  3. antiseptics based on organic solvents. This look is versatile. It can be used for internal and external work;
  4. combined antiseptics. This type has no restrictions on use and is suitable for internal and external work, but it is still more often used for external wood processing.

Any of the antiseptics forms a protective film on the surface, which maximally preserves the structure of the tree in its original form and prevents the appearance of fungus and decay processes.

How to apply correctly

It is most reasonable to use antiseptics at the stage of the onset of small mold.

Antiseptics are applied in different ways. If the material is just being prepared for construction, then a protective layer can be applied by simply dipping it into the solution.

If the material was laid without preliminary treatment, then it is worth using the spraying method.

The disadvantage of this method is that it has a relatively small penetration depth. More reliable is the same method of wood processing, but carried out in 2-3 approaches with a time interval of 15 minutes.

Attention! It is very important to pay attention to the instructions when applying the product, since some of the antiseptic preparations are suitable exclusively for internal processing, while others are only for external due to their high toxicity.

How to protect wood from fire

Fire retardant impregnation for wood

It has long been known that wood is easily subject to fire, but modern means of protection can get rid of this problem. The most effective option is fire-retardant impregnations.

Such impregnations are often used for the treatment of building facades. Depending on the degree of penetration, they are divided into:

  • deep;
  • superficial.

Also, impregnations are distinguished according to the principle of action. They are:

  • active. Influence the duration of the combustion processes, minimizing them as much as possible;
  • passive. They protect the wood structure from heat penetration.

Advice! If you want to give wood non-combustible properties, but at the same time want to preserve its natural beauty, choose transparent protective materials.

Fire retardants - fire retardants

You can also use so-called flame retardants for protection. They are special substances that slow down the combustion processes and protect the wood from igniting and spreading fire over a large area.

You can soak wood with fire retardants or apply a special agent to the wood containing the chemical composition of a fire retardant. Fire retardants completely penetrate the structure of the tree and protect it from fire or flame spread.

Application rules

Fire retardants can be applied by deep and superficial methods. In the second option, protection is applied only to the upper layers of the tree, this is a cheaper and easier way. Processing is carried out using brushes or rollers, depending on the convenience and size of the area.

But deep fire treatment involves the use of special equipment so that the fire retardants penetrate into the deep layers of wood.

Treatment of wood from moisture

Water is another enemy of wood. Water-repellent impregnations are capable of protecting wood from swelling and dampness. Depending on the main material that prevails in the composition, they can be:

  1. water based;
  2. oil-based;
  3. solvent based;
  4. wax-based.

The most popular are water-based impregnations. They are odorless, dry quickly and absorb. They are versatile and can be used both outdoors and indoors.

Solvent impregnations are used less frequently due to their specific odor and often only for external work. They are applied with a roller or brush.

Oil-based products are used for baths, saunas or for outdoor use, as they work well in conditions of frequent temperature changes.

The most original and effective in this list are wax-based impregnations. They completely clog the pores in the wood, giving the wood a special natural shine. It is often used to work with furniture.

Any impregnation is applied in about the same way: in 2-3 doses with an interval of 40 minutes. In this case, you can use a brush or spray, as well as immerse or soak wood parts in the solution.

Protection against mold and mildew

So that, with frequent changes in temperature or under the influence of atmospheric precipitation, colored mold or fungus does not form in the cracks of the tree, it will be important to treat the surface with antiseptics.

Modern options can be applied even at subzero temperatures, both on the internal and external surfaces of the tree.

They are safe for humans and do not emit an unpleasant odor or distort the natural look of wood.

By the way, linseed oil can be called a folk and affordable remedy - it protects well against the occurrence of fungus. You can also try copper sulfate - it protects not only from fungus, but also from small pests that can penetrate into the wood through small cracks.

Sun protection

In direct sunlight, the tree can fade, lose its rich color and become dry and weakened. However, untouched pigments can protect wood surfaces with minimal cost.

Usually, such pigments are added to oils or wood paints; you can find them by a special note on the packaging that this product will protect against ultraviolet radiation. published by

You can find out more about various impregnations for wood by watching the video:

SUBSCRIBE to OUR youtube channel Econet.ru, which allows you to watch online, download from YouTube free video about health improvement, rejuvenation of a person ..

LIKE, share with FRIENDS!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXd71u0w04qcwk32c8kY2BA/videos

Subscribe -

The porch has always had the ability to give comfort to everyone who enters the house. And how pleasing to the eye and creates a pleasant, benevolent and inviting atmosphere, a wooden porch is difficult to convey in words. In addition, such structures are durable, unpretentious and financially beneficial. But, like any thing, a wooden porch also needs care, which consists in painting and periodic surface treatment.

What to use to handle a wooden porch

When deciding to treat a wooden porch, initially it is worth choosing the necessary antiseptic primer or antiseptic impregnation. Both of these products have an identical effect, but the primer additionally prepares the surface for further processing with varnish or other material.

Protecting the porch from moisture

For wood, as for any material, there are permissible norms, the neglect of which will lead to the rapid destruction of the structure. So, exceeding 15% of the wood moisture threshold will lead to the destruction of fibers, subsequent swelling and delamination of the integral structure of the wooden porch. Almost all types of wood are susceptible to moisture and special solutions have been created to protect them. These are penetrating and water-repellent so-called film-forming substances, where the former give a more reliable result and retain their properties for a long time, and the latter are cheaper, but serve several times less.

As an example, consider two tools that better resist the penetration of moisture into wood.

Aidol Langzeit-Lasur, a medium viscosity impregnation agent, shown in the following photo, is perfect for treating walls, furniture, decorative structures, railings and wooden fences. The product is absolutely safe for people. Suitable for use with any wood, because it has a huge selection of shades from ebony to dark oak.

Colorless, based on acrylic resin, water and a number of additives, Belinka Interier Sauna glaze. The product is perfect for treating a wooden porch in hot regions with high humidity. It withstands temperature loads and the influence of aggressive environments very well. The product is applied with a spray gun or roller in several layers. We will consider the process of applying this glaze in more detail in the next photo.

Protection against fungi and decay

The constant change of temperatures, seasons and many other natural factors lead to early decay of wood structures. In our changeable and challenging climate, a wooden porch suffers from all the hardships of the environment, and this can lead to deterioration of the structure.

The best solution for treating a wooden porch is to use a special antiseptic. Basically, antiseptics are available in the form of solutions and in most cases are universal. Their applications range from antifungal to insecticidal. The most popular solutions are Pinotex Imra and Senezh EcoBio.

The first is used for hidden timber structures and parts such as crossbeams and roof slings. It is extremely reliable and provides a long-lasting antifungal effect for many years. After applying the first coat, re-painting is not required.

The second is necessary for the impregnation of the outer part of the wooden porch, partially fulfills the role of a primer for subsequent painting. It is applied in several layers, as indicated in the next photo, and protects against decay and mold for up to 30 years.

Fire protection impregnations

Fire is the most terrible and terrible pest for the tree. To protect and prevent fire and even smoldering, special solutions are used - fire retardants. When a fire breaks out, fire retardants in wood turn into a dense protective film that can withstand fire for a relatively long time. Fire retardants are available in the form of solutions, paints, plasters and gels.

The main representative of NEOMID 530 products. This solution allows you to cover a wooden base both for indoor and outdoor use. After processing, the wood structure reliably resists fire and is not disturbed, which makes it possible to further process the porch with varnishes and paints.

Another representative is Pirilax-biopyren - a complex product presented in the next photo, which provides protection not only from fire and its harmful effects on the wooden surface of the porch, but also treatment from fungus and harmful insects. The product is absolutely safe for people and animals. It is a versatile product, so it can be used to cover wood both indoors and outdoors.

Protection of wood from insects

Aqualak Bor is a deep penetration impregnation that resists the ingress of insects into the wood and its destruction. The solution does not violate the integrity of the wood and its color texture. Basically, the varnish is diluted with water, and it is mainly intended to cover doorways, railings, stairs and walls.

The second representative suitable for treating a wooden porch, shown in the following photo, is a multifunctional decorating agent with an antiseptic effect - Tonetex. The solution is able to get rid of all types of insects and, at the same time, prevent fungi and mold from developing. It has a large selection of shades, which gives a huge field for choosing the color of wood products from bog oak to red wood varieties.

Porch processing procedure

It is worth knowing that the processing of wood products is carried out in 2 stages. First, the wood is impregnated with special antiseptics to combat mold and mildew, and an insecticidal and refractory solution is applied. Secondly, varnish or paint is applied, which give the wood a special decorative layer that gives the porch beauty and naturalness.

Impregnation of a wooden porch

During the receipt of wooden structural parts and immediately before assembly, they are industrially impregnated with special solutions, but there are cases when impregnation is not carried out and you have to do it yourself. Self-impregnation is applied by spraying the solution onto a well-prepared wooden porch surface. The solution, as you can see from the next photo, is applied in several steps with an interval of 15 - 20 minutes each.

The impregnation spray preparation technology is standard and includes a number of simple but important requirements. The first step is to treat the surface with abrasive materials to eliminate the appearance of cracks and gaps. After that, the surface should be cleaned of dirt and dust using detergent and warm water. Finally, after complete drying of the surface, it is necessary to apply impregnation, in accordance with the instructions for use.

Important ! All types of impregnations are reactive solutions. When using them, you should remember about personal safety measures and clearly follow the instructions for working with them.

Pay special attention to the respiratory organs, because they can be affected in the first place.

Paint coating

At the moment, there is an unthinkable number of various impregnations and solutions for wood and wooden parts, but almost none of them is able to completely protect the surface from all sorts of factors and for the absolute effect and consolidation of the result, surface treatment with paints and varnishes is necessary.

When choosing a brand and type of paint, one should not forget that the following features of the finished porch on the street depend on their choice:

  • future type of product;
  • durability of the top layer and, accordingly, the entire structure as a whole;
  • product safety and environmental risk factor;
  • the time to put the product into operation due to the drying time of the surface.

The type and brand of varnish or paint is, of course, important, but the question of the correct application of the last coat is no less important. We learn how to paint a wooden porch correctly from the following photo instructions.

First, you should make sure that there are no defects and imperfections on the surface of the wooden product. If chips or cracks are detected, it is better to treat them with wood putty until they disappear completely, an example of a perfectly sanded surface is shown in the next photo. The areas treated with the filler should be sanded after drying.

Next, you need to prepare the paintwork. It should be shaken to avoid settling of heavier fractions to the bottom. Also, when using paint, it is necessary to determine and add a color or pigment dye to obtain the required color or shade. It will be ideal to test the resulting color on a small area of ​​wood, because after drying it can change its shade and is no longer suitable for processing. If varnish is preferred, then a brush or molar swab is suitable for its application, and when choosing a paint, preference should be given to a roller or a more modern application option - a spray gun.

Important! When painting by hand, it is necessary to cover the paint with a thin layer, as shown in the next photo. This will allow you to see gaps, gaps, and streaks during application.

Conclusion

To give preference to wood for the construction of any building is an excellent choice, but also not a small responsibility. The processing of the selected material directly depends on your approach to this issue and will fully show itself during the operation of the structure. For high-quality and full-fledged protection, you will need complex processing of the structure with all the means and impregnations specified in the article. This will not only save you from a lot of problems in the future, but will also extend the durability of the wooden porch several times.

Wood is a fashionable, practical, environmentally friendly, but rather problematic material. If you do not make high-quality preliminary processing, then its service life will be insignificant. To prevent the destruction of the wood structure, it is necessary to take a number of measures to protect it. The most commonly used impregnation for wood from moisture and decay. It is also necessary to pay attention to fire safety and insect exposure. This is what will be discussed.

Before processing a tree, so as not to rot, you need to know the nuances that provide the material with an illiquid state. The main provocateur of the occurrence of rot is a fungus, which tirelessly destroys wood. The most insidious is the house fungus. It is capable of destroying even treated surfaces.

To recognize the appearance of a fungus, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

  • softening the material;
  • the formation of microcracks;
  • change in natural color;
  • destruction of the original structure.

Excellent conditions for the emergence and spread of harmful fungi are:

  • climatic conditions (freezing, constant exposure to moisture, precipitation, direct sunlight);
  • direct contact with the ground.

With proper processing of wood from rotting and moisture, you can achieve an extension of its service life up to three decades. Although, depending on the degree of influence of negative factors, this period can change both positively and negatively. You can protect the tree using various means. The most common is the impregnation for wood from moisture and decay.

Antiseptic agents are produced based on chemical components. Their variety is great in the construction market. Each product has different properties, so you need to be savvy and choose the right one for wood processing.

Types of wood protection products

When choosing liquids to protect wood from moisture and decay, consumers pay attention to its high efficiency. But, besides this, the substance should not be harmful to human health. Most often, solutions that affect the durability of wood and are able to protect it from negative factors are quite dangerous.

It is absolutely necessary to ignore compounds containing tin and zinc compounds. These are the most toxic chemicals. Let's take a closer look at how to process wood to protect it.

Decorative impregnation

Protection of wood from decay and water is the main task of moisture-resistant impregnation. The material processed with such a composition is used for the construction of baths, fences, basements, gazebos, etc. They are used both individually and in combination with bio-primers. The last substance must be used to treat the boards before painting.

The essence of impregnation is its deep penetration into the structure of the tree and clogging its pores in this way. When processing wood with a solution, the penetration of moisture into the structure of the tree is limited. But besides this, the impregnation colors the wooden products and in this way gives them a noble appearance.

Decorative impregnation to protect wood from decay and water penetrates the wood too slowly. It can also be noted that the price for it is considerable.

Oil based product

Cover the boards with an oil-based product to prevent rotting when using their outdoor work. Protection of the board from decay is ensured by the formed film after application of the product to the surface. Moreover, the formed film on the tree soaked in the solution does not allow water to be absorbed, and, therefore, prevents the penetration of the fungus into the structure of the tree.

The disadvantage of such a tool is the fact that a film forms on the surface, and it is not able to protect the tree from exposure to the fungus that already lives inside. The liquid composition of the impregnation is almost non-toxic; therefore, wooden elements in houses where people live are coated with it.

Water based impregnation

Also, to protect the tree from moisture, an impregnation is used, which is well diluted in water. It is absolutely safe, when working with it, you do not feel a pungent smell, moreover, it dries quickly. Water-soluble impregnations are used to prevent wood decay and fungus penetration. Despite this, this composition is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity. For example, when building a bath, sauna or cellar.

The components of such solutions are boric acid, zinc chloride and sodium fluoride. They are better suited for wood used in furniture, door openings, window slopes or frames.

Volatile agent

It is possible to treat wood from decay with products that have an easily volatile substance. The manufacture of formulations is based on the addition of a certain substance to the dye formulations, such as a solvent. Means of this type are not able to penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree, but at the same time they create a film, the strength of which is quite high.

Due to its volatility, the composition is best used for outdoor work, but it can also be used for indoor wood processing indoors. The disadvantages of volatile agents include a long drying time for impregnating materials.

Protective clothing for working with antiseptics

Before treating a tree from moisture, you should take care of precautions. When working with volatile impregnations, you must wear a protective mask or respirator.

Protective goggles, closed type, flexible, chemical resistant

Respirator RPG-67 with filters FFP3

Rubber gloves MBS KShchS solutions up to 80% leggings

How to protect a tree with improvised means

It is possible to protect a tree not only with modern methods. Since ancient times, recipes have come to us on how to protect wood from decay using improvised means. Processing wood from decay using folk methods also allows you to protect the material with a fairly high quality. Many effective options have come down to our times:

  • Coating wood structures with carpentry (silicate) glue, with which boards and other material are impregnated.
  • Pretreatment of parts of the house that go into the ground and the soil itself with a solution of potassium dichromate with sulfuric acid. The proportions are one to one.
  • You can process it with a solution of vinegar and soda. It is more convenient to work with a spray gun.
  • Copper sulfate very well protects boards from moisture and decay. The best option is to use a 1% solution.
  • The oldest and most effective way to protect wood from moisture and decay is resin. It is heated and coated with elements of wooden structures, which most often come into contact with the ground.
  • It is also treated with a solution, which is obtained by mixing boric acid, salt and water in the ratio: for 10 liters of water, 1 part of boric acid and 20 parts of salt. Processing with such a solution is carried out several times.

Important! It should be remembered that with all the folk remedies listed above, you can process wood that has not yet been infected.

In the video: how to protect a wooden house from decay, moisture and fire.

Modern methods of combating wood decay

Protection from moisture by modern methods is performed in two ways: the process of conservation and treatment with antiseptics. With the method of preserving wood material, the process takes quite a long time. In its course, the solution impregnates and corrodes the affected areas. In this case, the board is placed in a container with a solution and soaks for a certain time.

It is possible to carry out diffusion or autoclave impregnation, which is carried out only in the factory.

Antiseptic impregnation involves a treatment that is carried out by applying a special substance to the wood. To do this, use a paint brush, roller or spray. Before soaking, the board is prepared. In accordance with the intended purpose, an impregnation is used that is suitable for the given function.

For example, white spirit can be easily removed from the surface, so it is not recommended to use it in rooms where there is a high degree of humidity or dampness. The question arises - how to protect the wood in this case? Water repellents work best.

Processing rules

Treatment of boards with impregnation does not cause any particular difficulties. However, there are several rules that must be followed strictly to achieve the desired result and maintain your own health:

  1. It is imperative to protect all vulnerable parts of the human body that will directly contact with the solution (hands: eyes, respiratory organs).
  2. Before processing the tree, so as not to rot, it is necessary to prepare it for work: clean it of dust, grease or previously applied paint.
  3. The board is carefully processed with a metal bristle brush.
  4. It is best to wash the surface with detergents.
  5. It is equally important to let the tree dry well.
  6. Before soaking the wood, we carefully read the instructions for its use on the package.
  7. It is recommended to start with the end parts of the board, cuts and areas that are already damaged.
  8. In the case when there is a need to apply the product in several layers, it is necessary to give time to completely dry the previous layer. Usually this period of time is 2-3 hours.

We increase fire resistance

Protecting wood from moisture and rot is not the whole range of work that must be performed before starting to use it. One of the weak points of timber structures is its rapid flammability. Therefore, we pay attention to solutions that can slightly increase the degree of fire resistance of wood, the so-called fire retardants. This is especially true in residential buildings.

The essence of fire retardants is that, under the influence of high temperature, they form a film that can delay the ignition of the wood material for some time.

With the help of additional treatments from the effects of all negative factors, it is possible to significantly increase the degree of reliability of a wooden structure. The better to handle, it is up to consumers to decide depending on individual preferences and conditions.

Wood occupies a leading position in the construction market. Its characteristics and abilities have been tested over the years. It is used both for the construction of buildings and for various finishing works. But in turn, wood is inferior to its competitors (stone, plastic, metal) due to its low resistance to biological agents. Insects, mold, fungi can cause significant harm to the material, its appearance and strength. You can protect wood from the effects of biological agents, and extend the life of the wood by treating it with folk protective agents.

Wood protection with copper sulfate

This method of wood processing is the most affordable and widespread. Copper sulfate prevents the formation of material decay for a long time. By mixing with its juice, it prevents moisture from acting on the wood, which is the main cause of wood decay. This product changes the shade of the wood material, which must be taken into account.

But there are also disadvantages of using copper sulfate, it is its insecurity. When heated, it releases toxic substances. And when working with the composition, you need to use gloves, preventing it from getting on the skin, since it irritates it.

Protecting wood with oil

Wood material has been treated with oil since ancient times. For this, they used mainly linseed oil, it protected the wood and strengthened its structure. The treated wood material had good adhesion. Oil can be applied with a brush or spray. But it dries for a very long time, and wood processing must be done in at least 3 layers.

You can also use teak or tung oil to protect wood material, they are able to provide greater strength and are absorbed faster. It is better to process wood with hot oils, because in this state they seep much deeper into the structure of the wood, thereby protecting it better. In general, oil or drying oil can hardly be called a folk remedy. After all, the manufacture of paints and varnishes occurs with the addition of oils.

Riveting wood ends

Much more water penetrates through the ends of the wood, along their capillaries (running along the entire tree trunk). To prevent this, they used to "rivet the ends" by hitting the ends with a wooden or rubber hammer. Thus, destroying the capillaries, and preventing moisture from entering the inside.

This method of protection also provided strength to the ends and prevented them from cracking. Additionally, they were fired with a blowtorch. In this case, the charred ends also acquired bactericidal properties, preventing the appearance of biological pests.

Finnish technology for the protection of wood material

Preparation of a protective composition:

  1. Dilute 700 g of wheat flour into 9 liters of water. You should get a mass similar in consistency to sour cream.
  2. Then, while stirring, gradually add 1500 gr. iron vitriol, 1500 gr. slaked lime and 400 gr. table salt.

It is necessary to process wood with a warm composition obtained. It should be applied in several layers, after the previous one has completely dried. This anti-rotting technology can be used for wooden fences.

Swedish wood protection technology

To make a protective Swedish product, you must:

  1. Make a paste from 6 liters of water and 1 kg of flour by boiling the composition.
  2. Then gradually add 0.5 kg of salt, lime coloring pigment, ferrous sulfate, natural drying oil to the resulting paste and pour in 3 liters of hot water.

The prepared composition should be used immediately to carry out a protective treatment of wood material.

Wood protection with birch tar

To provide a high degree of protection against insects and decay, wood material can be treated with birch tar or spruce resin. These compounds have a strong odor, they are easily soiled and sticky, which makes it difficult to work with them. Treated wood with tar cannot be painted, sanded and other mechanical influences in the future. In addition, wood coated with this resinous composition is highly flammable. Therefore, it is possible to use treated wood in this way only in the underground parts of the building structure.

Wood protection with used car oil

This is the most widespread and inexpensive, one might even say free method of providing protection to wood material. It is used mainly in rural areas for processing non-residential wooden structures. Used oil is 90% mineral oil, which is a good water-repellent and antiseptic agent. It also contains a lot of soot, which protects wood from the damaging effects of ultraviolet rays. And a small part of acidic salts that eliminate any kind of fungus that exists in the wood material.

Working out in a heated state is applied to the surface of the material several times. Particular attention is paid to the ends and crevices of the wood. If the processed log is dug into the ground, then for efficiency, a little oil is added to the pit itself, and after the post is buried, mining is spilled around it. The disadvantage of using working off is its soiling and an unpleasant dark shade.

Wood protection with tar

Tar or bitumen is used to prevent decay of wood material even now. This method of protection is common for timber of underground structures or for the lower rims of a log house, which are adversely affected by the environment to a greater extent.

Before using tar or bitumen, they should be heated and stirred in diesel fuel. Then coat wooden materials with the resulting composition. This is an effective protective method, but not entirely sustainable. Although now they produce mastics and impregnations with the addition of bitumen.

Wood protection with a mixture of propolis and sunflower oil

To prepare a protective mixture, you need to take 3 parts of sunflower oil and 1 part of propolis. Mix everything and apply to dry wood, free from dirt, using a sponge. The wood material must be well impregnated. This method of protection against the formation of rot and microorganisms is effective. But it must be borne in mind that wood impregnated with this mixture will quickly ignite.

These are the main folk methods of processing wood material from decay and the emergence of biological pests. They consist mainly in ensuring the protection of wood from water, which leads to the formation of rot and other unpleasant consequences, and in extending the durability of the entire structure. Folk remedies have many advantages over the use of synthetic compounds. Processing methods with their use are much cheaper, almost all of them are harmless, hypoallergenic for humans.

But with more serious enemies of wood, such as a white mushroom house, folk remedies are not able to cope. This pest can completely destroy an oak floor in a month. It spreads quickly and infects healthy wood materials. Therefore, earlier they could not destroy it and whole houses were burned in order to save the rest of the nearby wooden buildings. In such severe cases, it is better to use modern antiseptics and impregnations, effective and available on the construction market.

What should you choose and what is better to buy?

In modern times, nevertheless, in terms of efficiency and good quality of processing of wooden structures, it is best to choose and buy factory-made wood preservatives. Factory production of antiseptic compounds is much better than folk remedies to protect the wood of your wooden house or bath from rotting and destruction caused by pests. High-quality protective compounds include antiseptics, impregnations and paints from the companies NEOMID and PROSEPT.

Photo: impregnations and antiseptics of the NEOMID company are distinguished by good protective characteristics against biological pests of wood.

Photo: PROSEPT impregnations and antiseptics have excellent characteristics against biological pests of wooden structures.

You can buy them in Moscow in our Zashchita-wood.rf company. Our company store is located here.

Thematic VIDEO:

xn ---- 7sbajjgbjkg9c5aqg7hxb.xn - p1ai

Wood treatment methods to protect against moisture and decay

Wood is an affordable, environmentally friendly building material with an excellent appearance. Modern materials (expanded clay concrete, foam concrete) have recently become often used for the construction of walls and partitions, but their popularity in the construction of small houses is still losing out to wood.

However, being an organic material, wood is too hygroscopic, it is an excellent breeding ground for mold and microorganisms. Therefore, using this material, you should pay special attention to its protection from external factors.

Causes of rotting wood

The development of molds is the main factor that destroys wood. The development of mold (decay) occurs under certain conditions:

  • air humidity 80–100%;
  • moisture content of the material is higher than 15%;
  • temperature below 50 and above 0 С0

Additional causes of decay can be material freezing, air stagnation, contact with the soil.

Factors favorable for the decay process are quite common. Therefore, you need to know how to treat wood in order to protect it from mold.

Drying wood

You should start with preventive measures. The wood must be dry to prevent mold growth. There are four methods for drying timber or boards:

  1. Natural drying in dry rooms with good ventilation. This is the longest method (drying time is up to 1 year).
  2. Drying in the chamber with superheated steam, hot air. This is a more expensive, but quick and effective method.
  3. Waxing. The wood is immersed in liquid paraffin and placed in an oven for several hours.
  4. Steaming in linseed oil. It is used for small wooden products. The wood is immersed in oil, boiled over low heat.

Protection of wooden elements from moisture

Modern waterproofing allows protecting the timber from capillary moisture. The structure is protected from atmospheric moisture by a high-quality roof and the application of special paints and coatings.

Thermal and vapor barrier provides protection against condensation accumulation. The heat-insulating layer is placed closer to the outer surface, and a vapor barrier is placed between it and the wooden wall. The beams of roofing elements are protected from rain and snow with waterproofing films.

Wooden houses and structures should be located above ground level, on the foundation. For effective protection from water, it is worth taking care of the presence of a blind area, an effective drainage system. The possibility of natural drying of the walls is of great importance for the biostability of a wooden building. Therefore, you should not plant trees near wooden structures.

What to do if the timber began to rot

Decay greatly impairs the physical parameters of the tree. Its density drops by 2–3 times, and its strength by 20–30 times. It is impossible to restore rotten wood. Therefore, the element affected by rot should be replaced.

If there is a slight mold infestation, you can try to stop the process. For this, the rotten area is completely removed (with the capture of a part of healthy wood). The removed part is replaced with steel reinforcing rods, which should go deep enough into the healthy part of the element. After reinforcement, the area is putty with epoxy or acrylic putty.

This is a laborious and complex procedure, after which it is not always possible to achieve the same structural strength. The problem is easier to prevent, for which the wood is treated against decay.

Tree protection with folk remedies

The problem of protection from decay has been relevant since the time when wood was first used as a material. For a long time, many effective folk recipes have accumulated, which are still successfully used today:

  • Coating of wooden structures with silicate glue.
  • Treatment of walls and soil (up to 50 cm depth) with a solution of potassium dichromate in sulfuric acid. 5% solutions of acid and potassium dichromate are mixed 1: 1.
  • Processing with vinegar and soda. The affected areas are sprinkled with baking soda and sprayed with vinegar from a spray bottle.
  • Wood processing with 1% copper sulfate solution.
  • Hot resin impregnation. A very effective way to handle logs, fence stakes, benches in contact with the soil.
  • Use of boric acid salt. A mixture of 50 g of boric acid and 1 kg of salt per liter of water should be treated several times, with an interval of 2 hours, on the wood.

All of these methods are only suitable for healthy wood or when the tree has small lesions.

Modern methods of fighting decay

There are two ways to reliably protect the tree: conservation and antiseptic treatment.

When preserving, a product with a long-term toxic effect is applied to the timber or board. For this, the tree is soaked in cold or hot baths, or the preservative penetrates into it using diffusion or autoclave impregnation. The method is applicable only in the factory.

Antiseptic treatment involves self-impregnation of the material by applying chemicals with a spray gun or roller. The antiseptic agent must be selected in accordance with the operating conditions of the wooden structure. For example, water and white spirit-based impregnations are safe and inexpensive, but wash off easily. Therefore, for elements that come into contact with moisture or soil, only water-repellent antiseptics are suitable.

Classification of antiseptics

When choosing a tool to process the timber, it is worth understanding the main categories and types of protective compounds. There are three categories of wood preservatives: paints, varnishes, antiseptics.

Paints fulfill both protective and aesthetic functions. For interior work, it is better to choose water-soluble paints, and for exterior ones - based on an organic solvent.

Varnishes form a protective film on the surface without altering its appearance. For outdoor use, varnishes with fungicides that kill mold are used to prevent cracking and discoloration of the wood.

Antiseptics do a great job when mold has already infected the tree. There are 5 types of them:

  1. Water soluble. Odorless, non-toxic, dry quickly. They are made on the basis of fluorides, silicofluorides of a mixture of boric acid, borax or zinc chloride. Not recommended for surfaces that are often in contact with moisture.
  2. Water repellent. They differ in deeper penetration into the tree. Suitable for processing structures of baths, cellars and basements.
  3. On organic solvents. Allowed for use in external and internal works. Forms a thick film that dries up to 12 hours.
  4. Oil. Forms a thick, durable coating, insoluble in water. However, they should only be used with dry wood. When applied to damp wood, oil antiseptics do not interfere with the growth of fungal spores inside the material.
  5. Combined. Suitable for any wood, additionally have anti-flammability properties.

How to apply a protective coating to wood

Applying antiseptics, varnishes and paints is not difficult. However, carrying out such work requires compliance with certain rules.

  1. Wear gloves, face shield and goggles before handling.
  2. Clean the painted surface with a scraper from dirt, grease, old paint.
  3. Clean the board or timber with an old brush or emery.
  4. Wash the surface with water and detergent.
  5. Wait until the wood is completely dry.
  6. Read the instructions for the application method.
  7. Start processing wooden structures from ends, cuts, damaged areas.
  8. If it is necessary to apply several layers of coating, pause 2-3 hours between each application.

What you need to know about mold protection

The protective composition should be selected based on the characteristics of the operation of the protected surface. Only hard-to-remove coatings are suitable for outdoor use. Such products will reliably protect wood for 30 years.

For damp rooms (basements, baths), special means are needed that can withstand sudden changes in temperature.

A change in the color of a tree, the appearance of chips and cracks is a signal that the protective coating should be urgently renewed. It is recommended to alternate antiseptic compounds without re-treating the tree with the same compound.

brusgid.ru

Wood protection with folk remedies

At a young age, I had a chance to prepare an essay about an old salt plant, in which salt was extracted from liquid salt brine by evaporation. The oldest enterprise in Europe is now working intermittently, but table salt of its production can be found on the shelves. It was noteworthy that in the museum of the enterprise there were the remains of pipes through which salted brine moved between the workshops of the plant. They were made of wood. And their condition was satisfactory in spite of the hundreds of years that they had lain in the ground. Salt canned hollow pipes made from straight stems. Salt is also used today in folk remedies for processing and protecting wood from decay and a bug. Here are some recipes that still live not thanks to their effectiveness, but in spite of chemical remedies.

Controversial and proven methods of wood protection

  1. Freshly prepared round logs (in bark, but without branches) are displayed on a vertical overpass, tops down. A sealed polyethylene bag with a solution of copper sulphate is tied to the butt of the trunk, or a container is installed from which the solution contacts the end of the log through a soaked damp cloth. After a while, the saline solution, under the influence of gravity and thanks to the natural movement of the juices in the trunk, will fill the space between the fibers of the log and the protrusions on the lower end. After the solution has penetrated the entire length of the trunk, the workpieces can be laid on natural drying under a canopy, excluding the ingress of moisture and the sun. This seepage is very rarely used. An alternative is a regular seepage bath. (Source - from the experience of members of the forum Forumhouse.ru)
  2. The following folk method, when studied in detail, looks fantastic and impracticable, but for the sake of principle I will quote him: “One of the effective, environmentally friendly (but alas, not recommended) means of processing logs, lower crowns or strapping are compositions based on natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis ... The wooden houses are already 50-70 years old, and the logs, and the floors in general, are in excellent condition. Now many are advised to process the logs and strapping as well. (Source - from the experience of members of the forum Forumhouse.ru). What can be said about this method. It looks more like fantasies and theoretical assumptions, because it is impossible to dissolve paraffin or wax in oil. Most likely, the author had in mind the separate use of such agents as oil for impregnation and rubbing with wax. I already wrote about this method in the article about the processing of shelves in the steam room of the bath
  3. A very common method of protecting fences in the West - the Finnish composition for painting is made from the following available components: any flour - rye or wheat - 800 g, iron vitriol - 1.5 kg, kitchen salt - 400 g, dry slaked lime - 1.6 kg , water - 10 liters. This whole mixture of available materials is prepared as jelly or paste for wallpapering. Stirring cold water is gradually added to the flour, bringing the mixture to the consistency of sour cream. Half of the water (5L) is heated and topped up while hot. The finished paste is filtered and heated, stirring. When cooking, salt and vitriol are gradually added. The last is to stir dry slaked lime or lime pigment. Apply Lushe warm solution in 2 layers after the first treatment has dried. According to the testimony of old masters, such wood processing lasts for up to 15 years.
  4. Conifers are the most resistant to rotting and therefore processing with birch tar or spruce resin is the oldest and most proven method. These resinous compounds have a high degree of protection against fungi and bugs, but are very easily soiled, sticky, and have a strong odor. On top of them, wood must not be processed - paint, sand, etc. For open fire, this treatment is flammable. Therefore, the underground parts of wooden structures are treated with tar and sap and are not used for internal work.
  5. Means of protection - used car oil (working off). Today it is the most common method of protecting wooden structures in rural areas for non-residential structures. Development has one of the most important advantage factors - free. It is better to apply it in a heated state several times, allowing it to be absorbed. The ends and slots are impregnated with particular care. For greater reliability, the mining was poured onto the bottom of the pits, and after digging in the pillar, it was also poured around it. 90% of the composition of the mining is mineral oil - a good water-repellent antiseptic. In addition, there is a lot of soot in working out - a protective pigment from the destructive ultraviolet radiation of the sun. Some of the acid salts kill any fungus in the wood. Disadvantages - very easily soiled and has a mourning color. Iron (copper) vitriol releases toxic substances when heated. When it enters the human body, it causes disorders of the gastrointestinal tract, irritates the skin and mucous membranes.
  6. Today, the method of processing with hot bitumen or tar continues to be used. Heated and stirred in diesel fuel - they are considered the best means for processing underground wooden structures. In wooden construction, such coatings are used to protect the first crown or frame of log cabins. Today, bituminous impregnations and mastics are produced.
  7. Oils and drying oils are hardly folk remedies. They form the basis for the production of paints and varnishes. Therefore, they have good properties: they do not crack and flake off. Varnishes last longer. It is better to protect wood with hot drying oils or oils to increase the penetration depth. The fluidity of such wood preservatives in a hot state is much greater than in a cold one.
  8. In a dry tree, water spreads most rapidly from the end through the capillaries. Therefore, in one of the methods for protecting the ends of parts, "riveting" by blows of a rubber or wooden hammer of the surface of the end is used. Capillaries in such a place are destroyed and prevent easy evaporation of moisture. This keeps the ends stronger and prevents them from cracking. Additional protection can be added to the surface of wooden parts by blowtorch firing. A thin layer of charred wood has bactericidal properties, in addition, capillaries are additionally destroyed.

The structure of the wood resembles a bundle of thin tubes - capillaries along the trunk. These capillary fibers are composed of the basis of wood - cellulose (cellulose). Over time, fiber tends to break down into poly- and disaccharides, alcohols, aldehydes and organic acids under the influence of enzymes. Coniferous (and to a lesser extent deciduous) species, in addition to fiber, contain lignin - an organic substance similar to phenol. And phenolic resins are good antibacterial agents. To make wood resistant to harmful bacteria, you need lignin in its composition! Removal of lignin from wood is the cause of decay and destruction of wood.

The enzymes of saprophytic fungi (tinder fungi, mushrooms and oyster mushrooms), as well as a small number of putrefactive fungi and bacteria, are especially good at destroying lignin. Insects such as ants, woodworms and some worms cohabit with harmful fungi and bacteria. They mechanically grind wood fibers and promote active fermentation of cellulose and lignin breakdown. Such processes are especially good at high humidity.

You need to know the enemy by sight in order to organize the protection of wood with folk remedies

The worst enemy of the tree is the white mushroom house. Sometimes it resembles ordinary mold, which makes it impossible to correctly establish the cause of the damage to the wood. Under certain conditions, it can "gobble" an oak floor in just one month! Therefore, in the old days, houses affected by such a fungus were burned. to protect other wooden structures.

Antiseptics and impregnations based on the modern achievements of biochemists are not a folk remedy for protecting and processing wood, but the most effective and available building materials on the market.

dombrus.org.ua

The best protection of wood from moisture and decay:

Wood has long been one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials. Therefore, it is used in repair and construction. It has a high level of decorativeness, which is why consumers often choose it to decorate their apartments and houses. However, wood is a "living" material. Therefore, it needs a treatment that prevents spoilage and decay. Wood can be processed using synthetic means and folk methods. They will be discussed in the article.

Using folk methods

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out using folk remedies. They have many advantages over synthetic formulations. Such processing costs less. It is environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic. It is also available to any home craftsman.

Wood can be treated with propolis and sunflower oil. For this, materials are taken in a 1: 3 ratio. They should be mixed well and applied to a surface that has been previously cleaned of dust with a soft sponge. This method of protecting wood from moisture and decay is good because it is as strong as possible and helps to exclude the formation of microorganisms. However, it has one big drawback, which is that the material acquires an increased flammability. Therefore, it should be taken into account whether it is advisable to use such an impregnation in each individual case.

Quite often, iron sulfate is used by consumers for wood processing. To do this, you should purchase a ready-made solution that mixes well. A soft sponge or rag is dipped in it, with which pure wood is impregnated.

Protection of wood from moisture and decay with iron sulfate is ideal for round logs, since the tool is not too expensive. It is also extremely effective. With strong impregnation, the material will be ready to serve for a rather long time, without providing for additional protection work. The disadvantage of this tool is only long drying.

Wood impregnated with ferrous sulfate should be left outdoors, while excluding exposure to the sun's rays. You can use a special canopy for this. The material is left to dry from a week to a month.

Use of bitumen and automotive oil

Another great option for protecting wood from moisture and rotting with your own hands is to use bitumen. This method is effective, but from the point of view of environmental friendliness it is not completely safe. This is due to the fact that concrete has the properties of emitting harmful substances when heated. For this reason, the use of bitumen is not always recommended.

Does not apply to completely ecological materials and car oil. However, it is widely used for woodworking. The oil is able to protect against rot, mold and bark beetle, but it will not exclude fire, but will only contribute to this when exposed to fire. Therefore, this tool can not always be used.

Using the Finnish method

The protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out using the Finnish method. It is expressed in the use of the following materials:

  • salt;
  • flour;
  • water;
  • iron sulfate;
  • dry slaked lime.

The method is harmless, but it is used to process the material that forms the basis of fences and roofs. The composition has unique properties that exclude its quick washout with water. To prepare the mixture, the components must be mixed to make a paste. Most of it will be flour and water. The composition is heated over low heat, after which it is applied to the wood in a warm form in two layers. After the first layer has completely absorbed and dried, you can start applying the second.

Using water-soluble antiseptics

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out with water-soluble antiseptics. They are able to create a kind of barrier on the surface, but they are washed out from constant contact with water. Therefore, after application, such a mixture must be periodically renewed.

Among other similar solutions, one can single out ammonium and sodium silicofluorides, which are odorless powders. They become transparent on contact with water. Impregnation with their help must be carried out very carefully so that the composition is completely penetrated into the fibers.

Another treatment option is sodium fluoride. It is a white powder and can be easily washed off with water. This substance has one big advantage, which is that it does not corrode the metal that can be in wood. If you want to protect wood from rotting and moisture, then you can use imported substances, which are based on the following components:

  • zinc;
  • chlorine;
  • sodium;
  • borax potassium.

Such mixtures are more expensive, but they perfectly protect the wood. It is not recommended to use them in residential premises, as they are not so environmentally friendly and can emit toxic substances.

Use of organic and oil pastes

In addition to the above antiseptics, you can use special organic substances and pastes. They are composed of water-soluble antiseptics, silicon fluorides and binding agents. The materials are resistant to moisture, therefore they can be used for processing external wooden structures. Over time, the paste is washed out, so it must be periodically applied to the base.

For better protection of structures after processing, they should be covered with a building waterproofing film. Protection of wood from decay and moisture can be carried out with oil antiseptics. This should include technical oils that are toxic. Among their main advantages are high antiseptic properties.

The material is not washed out with water and protects the wood from almost all types of fungus. Oil-type compositions have a pungent odor and a dark brown color. In a residential area, such an approach for protection is impractical, while oil antiseptics are excellent for piles, utility posts and bridge supports.

The use of drying oil

Protection of wood from moisture and rotting with drying oil can also be carried out. For this, some varieties of the mentioned composition are used. Among others, semi-natural mixtures should be distinguished, which allow the formation of a hard film with a high gloss level on the surface. The base becomes water resistant. Semi-natural drying oil is good because it can be used in combination with paints and varnishes or as a primer.

Modifiers are added to the combined formulations that improve the quality of the mixture. Combined drying oils can be used not only to protect wood, but also as a preparation before applying paint or plaster. Protecting wood from moisture and decay with your own hands using drying oil, you should not forget that the liquid will dry out within a day or more. A coat of paint or plaster should not be applied during this period. Synthetic drying oils can be used for impregnation, and also act as a basis for diluting dark oil paints. Synthetic drying oil is excellent for external processing.

Products for wood in contact with the ground

Protection of wood from moisture and rotting in the ground can be carried out by means of NEOMID 430 Eco. It is suitable for creating a reliable barrier on the surface of a material that is constantly in contact with the ground during operation. This substance is an antifungal antiseptic with indelible properties.

The material can be exposed not only to contact with the soil, but also to the effects of soil salts, as well as atmospheric precipitation. The composition can also cover external walls, supporting structures of beams, ceilings, logs and beams. Excellent mixture for door frames and window openings.

This wood protection agent against moisture and decay can be applied to truss systems, fences and hedges, as well as structural elements that are exposed to harsh weather conditions and low temperatures. The described impregnation is radical. It is suitable for difficult operating conditions.

Antiseptic impregnation "Senezh"

To protect wood from rotting and moisture, "Senezh" can be used. This antiseptic impregnation has a filter that reduces the exposure of the material to sunlight. The composition is transparent. It is suitable for new and previously sanitized walls. Among the main properties, we can single out the absorbency into wood fibers and the formation of a weather-resistant polymer coating on its surface, which is distinguished by dirt and water repellency.

The number of layers applied can vary from 1 to 3. Approximately 60 g of the composition will be required per square meter in a single layer application. To work for impregnation, you can use a roller, brush or spray. On touch, such protection dries up within one hour, while the base can be used three days after application.

Protection of wood inside the bath

When choosing to protect wood from moisture and decay in a sauna, you should pay attention to Tikkurila Supi Arctic. This acrylic copolymer belongs to the M1 environmental class. Water is used as a solvent. The product is applied with a brush to a dry surface, where a film forms, which excludes the absorption of moisture and dirt.

Another colorless impregnation is Tikkurila Supi Saunasuoya. It has a subtle smell and contains anti-mold components. The main task is to protect the ceiling and walls in bath rooms with high humidity. This mixture also belongs to environmentally friendly materials, therefore it is not dangerous to humans.

The best bath products

When choosing the best wood protection against moisture and decay, you should pay attention to Teknos Sauna Nature. This product has a creamy consistency and a subtle smell. Excellent for protecting wood inside saunas and baths, including steam rooms. The solvent is water. The mixture can be tinted in different colors.

On the basis of acrylic resins, Belinka Interier Sauna is made, which has water and special additives among the ingredients. This colorless preservative is used for wood interiors. The material has a low odor, and the color of the surface does not change after the formation of the film. The texture only stands out.

It is necessary to use the composition by applying it in two layers with a spray, roller or brush. The first coat will dry within 2 hours, the next coat can be applied after three hours. This impregnation has a good value for money.

“Senezh Sauna” is made on the basis of acrylic resins. This mixture contains special components and water. The transparent protective agent does not contain solvents and prevents contamination from settling on the surface. Fungus and insects do not penetrate inside. The protective agent is applied to the previously cleaned surface with a brush, velor or foam roller. You can use a spray gun for convenience. The manufacturer recommends applying layers in the amount of 1 or 2. This applies to the steam room. If wood processing is carried out in other rooms of the bath, then the number of layers can be increased to three.

Finally

Before proceeding with the protection of wood, it is necessary to select the means. They can be designed to exclude material contact with moisture or soil. There are compounds on sale that allow you to provide comprehensive protection. If you want to choose an environmentally friendly mixture, then it is better to use folk remedies, but factory-made impregnation becomes more effective solutions.

In Russia, wood at all times has been a valuable building material, which has many advantages:

  • good handling and finishing;
  • high density and strength;
  • good soundproofing qualities;
  • durability;
  • ensuring a constant temperature regime in the room;
  • easy fastening and connection of wooden parts (by gluing, connecting with screws and nails).

According to sanitary and hygienic requirements, the most comfortable chopped and cobbled walls are made of coniferous trees, moreover, conifers are usually of the correct shape and are least susceptible to rot.

The main parameters that ensure the durability of the tree:

  • strength, density;
  • high resistance to cracking;
  • high resistance to decay;
  • low knotty;
  • wear resistance.

The strength of wood fiber and wood depends on the type of wood, its moisture content, density, and the presence of defects. Distinguish between free and bound wood moisture. Free moisture evaporates very quickly and easily from wood, while bound moisture, on the contrary, evaporates from wood very slowly - it will take several years to dry this tree without using some technologies.

The higher the amount of bound moisture, the lower the strength of the wood becomes. When wood is dried, moisture first evaporates from its outer layers, gradually reaching the inner layers. Because of this, internal stress arises in the wood, and cracks appear.

Classification of tree species by drying method:

  1. Low-withering: fir, spruce, cedar, pine, white poplar, etc.
  2. Moderately dying: elm, oak, beech, ash, aspen, black poplar, small-leaved linden, etc.
  3. Severely withering: hornbeam, Norway maple, birch, larch.

The moisture content and density of wood provide such qualities as:

  • increase the ability to hold metal fasteners;
  • make it easier to hammer in nails.

Classification of tree species by degree of hardness:

  1. Hard: beech, birch, elm, larch, elm, ash, maple, elm, apple.
  2. Very hard: dogwood, hornbeam, boxwood, birch, acacia.
  3. Soft: cedar, spruce, aspen, pine, fir, alder, linden, poplar.

Under what conditions does wood usually rot?

Often, high environmental humidity, violation of the temperature regime (freezing and thawing), active sun and wind erosion lead to wetting of structures even from the hardest species of trees, as a result of which fungal diseases and destruction of wood appear.

The wood of the external surfaces of structures (window frames) and the one that is in contact with the ground (lower crowns of the house, cellar, underground) is most susceptible to rotting. Internal wooden elements and joinery are also subject to fluctuations in humidity and temperature conditions in the room.

Wood decay has been fought at all times: before, logs were harvested only in autumn, then they were dried under sheds until spring, and processing began in summer.

Structural protection of wooden elements from decay

Constructive measures are currently being taken:

  • wooden structures are isolated from soil, metal, concrete and stone;
  • protect them from precipitation;
  • arrange special ventilation.

All supporting structures of the house must be completely open, well ventilated and have access for periodic inspection for the presence of diseases or insects.

Reliable waterproofing of all wooden structures and parts that come into contact with soil, concrete, foundations, metal parts and masonry is mandatory. (Cm. )

In order to completely eliminate the formation of condensation, all wooden elements should not be located in the zone of temperature changes. They cannot be placed in the intermediate zone, they must be stirred in the area of ​​the heated room or outside, outside it. Fencing hollow wooden structures must be equipped with additional ventilation. From outside waters (snow or slanting rain), wooden walls will be protected by a wide overhang or a crowning wide cornice.

But these measures are still not enough to protect wood from moisture and decay; cardinal measures are needed: impregnation of wood with antiseptics and flame retardants.

Wood treatment with fire retardants and antiseptics

Currently, the most essential protection of wood from various diseases, including rotting, is its treatment with antiseptics (chemicals).

Choosing an antiseptic, the consumer should know its main useful functions:

  • high toxicity to fungi;
  • high durability;
  • good permeability to wood;
  • lack of unpleasant odor;
  • absolute harmlessness to people and animals;
  • should not degrade the quality of wood;
  • must not cause corrosion of fasteners and connections of metal elements.

The main types of wood antiseptics

Wood preservatives are divided into:

  • water-soluble;
  • organic soluble;
  • oil;
  • antiseptic pastes.

Water-soluble wood preservatives

Impregnation of wood with water-soluble antiseptics protects it from moisture and water washout. These antiseptics include:

  1. Sodium fluoride is a white powder, odorless, it is a strong enough antiseptic. It easily penetrates wood and is also easily washed out of it with water. Sodium fluoride does not reduce the strength of wood, does not stain it, and does not corrode metal compounds. Interacting with chalk, lime, gypsum and cement, sodium fluoride forms calcium fluoride (a toxic, slightly soluble substance). For antiseptic treatment of public, residential and industrial buildings, products made from sawdust, shavings, wood, peat and reeds, a sodium fluoride solution of 3-4% concentration is used
  2. Sodium silicofluoride is a white or light gray powder. For a more effective effect on wood, sodium silicofluoride is used together with sodium fluoride and soda ash. Sodium fluoride is similar in action to sodium fluoride.
  3. Ammonium silicofluoride is a white powder, odorless. Aqueous 5-10% solutions are used, they are colorless and easily washed out. Ammonium silicofluoride does not reduce the strength of wood, does not stain it, causes weak corrosion of metal compounds and provides fire resistance to wood. Often, to control the application of a colorless solution of ammonium silicofluoride, a dye is added to it.
  4. Preparation BBK-3 - boric acid and borax solution. BBK-3 has good solubility. It is practically harmless to humans.
  5. The preparation ХХЦ is a mixture of sodium or potassium chromium peak and zinc chloride. Apply a solution of 3-5% concentration. The drug has good solubility, but it causes corrosion of ferrous metal compounds and stains wood in a yellow-green color. It is a toxic substance.
  6. The drug MChHTs is a mixture of chromopic, copper sulfate and zinc chloride. The product is highly soluble, corrosive to ferrous metal compounds and stains wood green-yellow. Apply a 3-5% solution. The drug is toxic.
  7. The preparation GR-48 is a pentachlorophenol solution, odorless, readily soluble in water. Its 1-5% solution is used to protect wood (mainly lumber) from mold and blue.

Organosoluble wood preservatives

PL preparations are solutions in light petroleum products of pentachlorophenol, they have a high permeability into wood fibers. Very toxic. They are used when it is necessary to introduce hard-to-wash antiseptics into wood that do not require drying of wood products or structures. These drugs are used to increase the toxicity of oil antiseptics.

NML-type preparations - solutions in light oil products of copper naphthenate. These are highly toxic substances. They easily penetrate into the pores of the wood and color it green, as well as prevent the possibility of its gluing. Fuel oil, green oil, solvent naphtha and kerosene are used to dissolve them.

Oil wood antiseptics

These include:

  • coal oil;
  • shale oil;
  • anthracene oil, etc.

All these liquids have the strongest antiseptic properties. They have a dark brown color and a pungent odor, do not wash out with water, do not corrode metal, the wood is painted dark brown. They are usually used for timber structures that are exposed to atmospheric moisture, soil or water for deeper processing and impregnation. Sleepers, piles, parts of bridges, structures under water are treated with such oils.

Antiseptic pastes for wood

Antiseptic pastes include water-soluble antiseptics (for example, fluorosilicate or sodium fluoride), binders (clay, liquid glass, bitumen) and filler (peat powder). Antiseptic pastes are used to treat building elements that are moistened during operation - for example, pillars and ends of beams. After the elements of open structures have been treated with an antiseptic paste, they must be additionally protected with a waterproofing coating.

In order to protect wooden products and building structures from moisture, they are processed in different ways:

  • surface treatment with antiseptics;
  • sequential impregnation in hot and cold baths;
  • coating with antiseptic pastes;
  • high pressure autoclave impregnation.

The method of wood processing is chosen depending on its purpose and moisture content. The impregnation depth directly depends on the structure of the wood and on the processing method.

Healthy wood is very often treated with a 5% solution of potassium dichromate in a solution of sulfuric acid (5%). An aqueous solution of sodium bichromate is very effective for impregnating the lower rims and beams of the building.

Means for wood impregnation on the Russian market

Today on the Russian market there are a lot of effective means for preventing and combating fungal diseases of the tree. They are divided into:

  1. Biopirents are agents that provide protection against biological damage. These include "SenezhBio".
  2. Antiseptics-flame retardants - protect against bio-damage and prevent the occurrence of rot. These are: Pinotex, VIM-1, Antibiokor-S, Pirilax, Kram, Biodecor, Biotonex, Biosept, Novotex, Tecotex, Biokron, Actitox "," Quintol "," VAK-48D "and a mixture" Aquabor ". The Finnish trade mark "Pinotex" is the widest: primer PINOTEX BASE, water antiseptic for all types of work (indoor and outdoor) PINOTEX AQVA PLUS, wood preservative PINOTEX CLASSIC (based on an alkaloid binder).
  3. Polymer preparations - provide wood with a long-term protective effect, protect it from bio-damage (blue stain, mold and decay). These funds are completely harmless to human health. Their polymer base contributes to long-term processing of wood. They contain salts of zinc, chromium and tin, which protect wood from the development of microorganisms. These drugs include drugs from a Russian manufacturer: Bicidol, Bicidol 100, Bicidol 200, Vuprtek. It should be borne in mind that Bicidol 100 can color wood green. "Wuprtek" is an excellent antiseptic, it is an analogue of the Finnish "Pinotex", but cheaper, it also stains wood.
  4. Biocidal compositions "Woody Healer" (DL) on the market are represented by three modifications:

DL-1 - for processing wood products or fresh unpainted wood from the appearance of mold;

DL-2 - destroys the already appeared colonies of microorganisms and protects against their appearance in the future;

DL-3 is a new generation, the most powerful bioseptic. It stops the decay process near wood and scares away various insects: bark beetles, woodworm beetles.