The seemingly simple process of installing double-glazed windows (plastic windows and others) in wooden houses in the future may well be complicated by rather unpleasant moments - if you do not take into account some features during the construction of a wooden house or when installing similar products. How to correctly install windows in a wooden house so that problems do not arise?

Double-glazed windows retain heat very well, but if you do not think over the ventilation of the house, unpleasant phenomena may appear.

Some characteristics and features

It is known that wooden houses shrink for some time. This fact is the main one of all that must be taken into account when installing plastic windows in a wooden house. So, how to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house, so that in the future they do not warp and they do not stop closing?

Installation of a casing in a wooden house is necessary to eliminate problems arising from the shrinkage of the log house.

So that you are not affected by the troubles described above, when installing double-glazed windows, you must use a window, another name for this design is siege. This design is necessary to ensure the independence of the window installation from the walls in wooden houses. In other words, the installation of plastic products should take into account the possibility of shrinking the walls of the house without pressure on the frames themselves. To understand what will have to be faced, it is necessary to consider the process of shrinkage of a log house itself.

There is a misconception that a wooden house is completely settled already a year after its installation was completed. Of course, throughout the year, the log house will sit 3-5 cm for every 3 m of its height. However, in general, shrinkage is not only sinking, it is the whole process of drying the logs from which the house was built. Therefore, if the log house was built from damp forest, the logs can completely dry out in about 5 years - in a temperate climate.

Moreover, they will dry out annually in diameter by 5-10 mm. Therefore, the installation of plastic systems in a wooden house should take into account that it will slowly sit down for at least 5 years. It is here that the cessation (okosyachka) comes to the rescue.

Required tool for work:

• electric drill;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• jigsaw;
• roulette;
• level;
• plumb line.

Installing windows in a wooden house: sequence of actions

The main purpose of the casing is to firmly fasten the windows in the opening while maintaining the independence of the entire window structure.

The technology of installing windows in a wooden house - both plastic and wooden - is not much different. Below we will consider this process step by step: we will start with the preparation of the openings, as well as the manufacture of the casing (okosyachki), and end with an examination of how the installation of plastic (wooden) structures in the okosyachki is performed correctly.

For the correct installation of double-glazed windows (wooden elements), the openings need special preparation. To carry out installation with the least amount of negative consequences, it is necessary to start with the correct cutting of the holes in the wooden house.

The distance of openings from the floor in a wooden house

The optimal distance from the window sill to the floor in a wooden house is considered to be 80-90 cm, while it is necessary to take into account the height of a person. This distance is due to several points:

• it is necessary to be able to approach the window comfortably and lean on the windowsill;
• the height of desks, dining tables and kitchen worktops is 75-85 cm, so the window sill should have a slightly higher height.

Therefore, the openings must be cut 5 centimeters lower, taking into account the thickness of the mounting foam (1-2 cm), as well as the thickness of the future window sill (about 3-4 cm).

The joints between the box and the wall are filled with a double layer of insulation.

Cut out the window opening

You will need a water level for this operation. With its help, it is necessary to evenly mark the horizontal lines and a plumb line, which will then help mark the vertical lines.

We mark the bottom line at the height specified in the previous section. After that we mark the upper border.

It should be borne in mind that the height of the openings for plastic windows should be made more than the window height by 13-14 cm.

This is due to the fact that from the window to the lower edge of the opening, you need to leave about 4 cm for the window sill and foaming, on top - 1 cm for foam, for the upper part of the window - 4 cm, as well as 4-5 cm for shrinking the house.

You can now use a plumb line to mark the vertical edges of these holes. At this stage, the width of the opening, as in the case of the height, should be 12-14 cm larger than the size of the ordered products.

Okosyachka (sowing) - element properties

The main purpose of this structure is to firmly fix wooden (plastic) windows in the openings of a wooden house while maintaining the independence of the structure from the walls. If we neglect the casing (casing), after a while the logs will dry out, their diameter will decrease and they will begin to press on the device. It is also possible that the window will simply break under the pressure of the walls.

The location of the ridge is marked using a level.

There are two types of squash. The most common option is when grooves of 50x50 mm are made at the end of the logs of the openings, inserting bars of the same dimensions into them. However, this option is suitable only for wooden structures, since they can be foamed between the bars.

When installing double-glazed windows, a comb should be cut out at the end of the logs of the openings, on which to put on the carriage along with the groove. In this case, during drying, the logs with the ridge will sit inside the gun carriage, as if along guides, without exerting any pressure on the structure.

Carriages for a window

These carriages are vertical structures made of 150x100 timber. It is with their help that it is possible to achieve independence of wooden (plastic) windows from logs.

The carriage is a structure, the length of which is 5-6 cm longer than the size of the window. In the middle of the wider side of the carriage, a groove is made, the dimensions of which are 50x50 mm. The installation of the carriage is quite simple - it must be put on the ridge cut out at the end of the logs of the openings.

Preparation of window openings in a wooden house

Before starting the installation of plastic (wooden) windows in a wooden house, it is necessary to correctly and accurately mark the place for installation. To do this, at the ends of the openings (necessarily using a level), it should be noted where the comb for the carriages will be cut.

Installation of a window

After the opening is ready, we can start assembling the jig. First, you need to cut out the upper part of the jig, make grooves in the board, which will then need to be put on the comb.

The attachment of the jig is only due to the connection of the groove and the ridge.

The board is the top of the window opening, into which the installation of the elements will then be performed. Therefore, the board should not have kinks, be flat - so that there are no difficulties when the installation is made.

In order to prevent squeaks, as well as improve thermal insulation, the combs can be overlaid with rolled tow, and then put on prepared carriages on them.

The board, which is the top of the box, is screwed to the carriage with self-tapping screws. It is important not to be mistaken here - if you suddenly screw the board to the ridge, the whole structure will lose its meaning.

It is also advisable to check the parameters of the opening itself. For the installation to take place without complications, the opening must be 2-4 cm wider than the window - this gap is necessary for foaming.

The height of the opening is 5-7 cm more than the height of the window. The gap is necessary to carry out the installation of the window sill and its further foaming. Leave about 5 cm for shrinkage between the log and the top of the opening.

Installation of plastic (wooden) windows in a window

When the openings are ready, the installation of the window is completed, you can start installing the windows. It is important to remember that when installing plastic products, in no case should you drill through the frame, since the thermal insulation and tightness will be destroyed.

Therefore, when purchasing parts, you need to buy special mounts. Installation of these fasteners is carried out, as a rule, at the end of the frame. To make the installation less complicated, it is necessary to remove the sashes from the frame - without the sashes, it will be much easier to hold the frame.

The next step is the correct installation of the frame in the opening. Here again the level will come to the rescue, without it the window will be set crookedly.

After the device is installed, it should be attached to the window using the fasteners. Do not forget that at the bottom you need to leave a gap for the polyurethane foam - it is best to put a chip under the frame. After the frame is installed in the window, you can hang the sashes, after which the window should be foamed around the perimeter with foam.

Glad to be of service to you again, my friends!

After examining his windows in a wooden house, he came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I haven’t come across such a process yet, so I made up for the lack of practical experience with the help of other people's knowledge: I “looked over” a bunch of forums and sites, through friends I found people who had already done such work. After that, I made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm for my actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will outline everything sequentially.

The first step was to measure the windows and order new ones, giving the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, he began dismantling the old frames, and then cleaning the openings from the accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, I installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. I put the structures in their permanent places and secured them. Of course, in reality the process was not so fleeting and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming in it - I did it and you will succeed.

The technology of installing a plastic window into the opening of a wooden house

When installing a plastic double-glazed window in the window of a house made of wood, you cannot do without a level and a plumb line - if you want the window sashes to have a smooth movement, do not open under their own weight or jam. Then never fix the window without making sure - not by eye, but by level, that it is level.

So that the work in connection with the insertion of the window into the opening and the alignment does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the structure set to the level with mounting fasteners.

The best option is 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you apply for the production of double-glazed windows.

There are technical skids for these fasteners on each side of the window, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through it when attaching the frame, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarism - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And if you don't install it yourself, tell the installers to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case, the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house will be fully justified.

I strongly advise you to remove the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. It will not take much time, but it will save a lot of energy: without them, it will become much easier at times and it will be easier to direct it to the right place.

Algorithm for installing a double-glazed window into the opening of a wooden house:

• by inserting the structure into the window, insert chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
• using the water level, determine the quality of the installation;
• achieve the desired indicator by adding additional chips;
• align the frame with the same pieces of wood along the vertical level;
• having determined the most optimal position, fix the frame on the box with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.

While screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not fall into the crest of the log, which the pintle rests on. To avoid loosening the self-tapping screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.

After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from bending under the pressure of the hardening polyurethane foam. If the sashes are not installed before, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents, even in an ideally installed frame.

At the end of the alignment of the frame horizontally and vertically, on each side of the entire structure there should be a gap of 2 cm thick - for filling with foam. The height of the distance between the upper panel of the window and to the first log is not less than 5 and not more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent the pressure of the wood on the windows after the frame has shrunk.

Before pouring the foam, a control check is needed to ensure that the entire structure is installed correctly. They are guided by the "behavior" of the open sash: it should not go further on its own than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its weight, and not you.

Here is such a short educational program on the installation of a plastic double-glazed window in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting business.

Self-installation

I wanted to put plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal presentation of my experience in self-assembly of double-glazed windows in a house made of timber.

Why did I decide to do the window installation myself?

There are several reasons:

• for installation, you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (you can buy a third for the savings for 2 installed yourself);
• almost all firms that provide the service of installing windows in wooden houses do not give any guarantees for their work;
• no need to pay for a service that any owner is able to provide himself for 2 hours.

In order for the installation result to please for many years, you need to adhere to the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.

Dismantling old windows

Regardless of who will install brand new double-glazed windows in a wooden building - you or invited workers - the installation of new structures is permissible only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: in our house, the window frames were changed a couple of years ago, so the wood turned out to be flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents or chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account the fact that the boxes will remain. If, in your case, the state of the frames turns out to be not very good, but thrift will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled one can be used as a basis in a mini-greenhouse.

Not sure how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow yourself or your employees to break them out with meat. You will always have time to start up the firewood. The same applies to glass: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, which means, first take it out - there will also be a use for it. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were taken out without removing the glass.

How to prepare a place

Run a dry brush or clean rag around the entire perimeter of the frame to sweep away anything remaining after dismantling.

Installation of a window sill

The first to be permanently installed is a plastic window sill., which is "charged" to serve as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence, the “legs” of the requirement to install it perfectly even and horizontally grow. The usual building level will help to determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position. To adjust its location, taking into account the level readings, use cut strips of plastic or chips (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). For the stability of the window sill, make a cut on each side of the box, going deep into the wood by 8 millimeters.

Fix the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window box. Fasteners are installed with a two-centimeter indent from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory substrate for each washer. It will not allow the self-tapping screw to break through the canvas if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Do not worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply will not be visible.

How to prepare a double-glazed window

I recommend that you put the handle on before starting the installation work. But the film can be removed and then - so there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the surface of the plastic. Tear off the adhesive strip only at the place where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, keep its long part parallel to the window sill.

After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When the handle is moved with the end down, the sash will be locked, up - only the narrow upper part of the window can fully move away from the frame panel.

Having secured the handle to the panel with a couple of bolts, you need to unfold it with the end down. On the side posts, mark out the holes for the fasteners, with which the window will be held within the frame.

Window installation

We put the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that from both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the glass unit is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is given to us by the window sill previously reinforced in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use the level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.

While the person helping you is holding the frame, you should wedge a 1-inch-wide spacer bar between the frame and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the structure to be fixed at the moment of joining the glass unit with the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are too lazy or forget about the bars, you can provoke the window to leave the side during the fixing process. As a result, then the sash will be difficult to open and close.

After wedging in the bars and placing the glass unit strictly according to the level indicators, fix the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them on each of the four sides.

When introducing a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location takes place in the free space between the window and the box itself.

Then, during periods when the house "walks" under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal movements, the windows in it will not warp.

Installing a window in a wooden house using self-expanding tape in the video:

How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?

First, take care of maintaining the patency of the drain holes - install adjustment plates between them, which will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the glass unit into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to preserve the integrity of the glass in the frame when the box will lead in the spring or winter after the house.

In the case of a tight fit of the glass unit to the box (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor should respond with an appropriate solution to the problem.

After inserting the glass unit into the box and aligning the first one on four sides with respect to the last one, fix its location with plastic glazing beads with profile spikes. These "spiky" strips are very easy to install: just push them inward with small taps into the openings. When the spines of the glazing bead reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.

Having achieved a fixed and correct placement of the glass unit in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with polyurethane foam, processing the cracks on the inside and outside.

Remove any hardened excess by cutting with a knife.

After making sure that the work has been carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the sashes move only under the pressure of your hands, you can proceed with the installation of additional fittings, platbands and drainage systems.

Safe installation rules

All difficulties with the installation of windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Not taking into account this factor in the process of installing plastic structures, even window or door, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new "carpentry" will fail without having worked for a year.

How do wooden houses differ from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture for the first time after the construction of a log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take their final size in the sixth year after they are built. But in some regions, the process of "walking" houses never ends.

On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the glass unit, which was installed in the box in such a way that there was only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do the owners of wooden houses need to forget about dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.

First, don't neglect the casing. It is also called a little box. Thanks to her, any windows gain independence from the impact, within reasonable limits, of the bearing walls of the building. Whether they shrink or gain some curvature, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.

General technical characteristics of the casing:

• will protect the logs from deviating from the vertical in the area of ​​the window opening;
• does not resist vertical wall shrinkage;
• takes on all the loads;
• contributes to the strength of the wall in the area of ​​the window opening.

What is a siege? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm at the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such a treatment of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare the opening for plastic double-glazed windows, you need to make a comb at the ends of the logs, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a tongue and groove will ensure that the logs slide without damaging the window frame.

What is a window carriage? These are vertical beams with dimensions of 15x10 cm, with notches at the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers crowned at the ends with spikes in the form of 15x5 cm planks.

The assembled cage is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. Such a gap is left due to the possible shrinkage of the wall. When the jamb is collected in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither shrinkage creaks nor drafts from under the window are terrible.

Then you need to make the bottom lintel and also fill the carriages on the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the cut-out from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the resulting structure of relative freedom. Later all the cracks found between the window and the walls must be clogged with tow.

It is possible to insert metal-plastic double-glazed windows into such a structure, without fear that when the house shrinks, they will jam. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barrier also need to be taken care of.

The gap between the log house and the casing made must be filled with thin strips with wound fibers of tow.

When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the planks to replace them with new ones. To facilitate this process, I strongly recommend that you only attach the upper casing to the casing. If you need it - carefully remove it, change the filling, fasten it in place.

When I was conducting seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window fitter to understand the technology of wooden buildings construction. What's so strange about that? Without this, the installer will not be able to put the window in such a way that it will serve for years without complaints. In other cases, casing is indispensable.

If you are hired to install a plastic insulating glass unit in a wooden house, find out if there is a casing. If it is not there, and instead of a window there will be a box of an old window, tell the owner that he has two ways. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and windows smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee of a high-quality result. Since even old wooden houses always "walk" and resist this, or rather, take this factor into account when installing windows. And do not forget to indicate in the contract that you are relieving yourself of any responsibility for the future life of the windows.

We put plastic double-glazed windows in a private house

Remember: all wooden structures shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.

The strongest wood shrinkage processes occur in the first two years after the end of the construction of a log house. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to be ignored when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.

What is the casing for?

The durability of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing will be carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperatures.

What is a Siege? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, fixed according to a certain technology, and only then they are engaged in the installation of PVC double-glazed windows. The box itself is kept inside the opening with the help of lateral grooves.

In the process, one cannot rely on the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam, other fastening methods.

Between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, a gap must be left, the value of which must be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.

How can you make a jaw:

• a tab of wooden beams into specially made grooves (screws will then be screwed into the beams);
• sawing out thorns at the edges of the logs in the window opening and shaping grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this the “in the box” technique);
• the thorns are made in the sides of the structure, the ends of the logs of the window opening are equipped with grooves.

The nuances of preparing the window opening

Do not be intimidated by the installation of a plastic glass unit in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert a modern window into a log house of any age with your own hands.

The first step is to determine the distance to the window from the floor. The most convenient option if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then be guided by a distance of 80-90 cm.

Determine the lower, upper border of the window opening using the water level. The upper line should run 13 +1.5 cm above the upper border of the glass unit, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave one and a half centimeter of allowance for sealing the cracks with construction foam.

Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe the utmost accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the insulating glass unit itself. High-quality measurement is one of the most important nuances that affects the quality of all subsequent work on the installation of a double-glazed window into a window opening.

After bringing the opening to the desired condition, engage in studding the ends of the logs facing the window. The draft window is trimmed with jute from the sides and bottom. Make the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into blocks. Make the connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the convergence points at the joints with sealant. Fill the gaps in the window with tow.

For casing and casing when installing PVC windows in a wooden house, see the video:

Installation nuances

The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being perfectly pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is fixed with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.

It is permissible to install a metal-plastic window of any configuration in an ordinary wooden house, but not from a bar, if you know how to make the casing correctly, take measurements and choose the appropriate fittings.

When choosing tools and other material, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such "stings" will definitely go behind the window and yell into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.

For waterproofing the outer seam, you can use an acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, a sealing tape that expands itself after being placed in place, or a regular vapor-permeable sealant. Such protection will extend the useful life of the foam and prevent the formation of drafts.

A vapor barrier tape is placed along the inner seam, securing it with a special glue. And only then they carry out the processing of the seam with polyurethane foam.

Installing windows in a wooden house differs significantly from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, openings of buildings made of logs and beams, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying out of the wall material (logs, beams). And this moment is decisive in carrying out the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual in a bare opening, then it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But this is not the case. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for tens of years. But that is not all. Wood not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

• Shrinkage in a log house - about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
• Shrinkage in a house from a bar - about 7 - 10 mm for one bar with a section of 150x150 mm
• Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log cabins as a percentage: approximately 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses from a bar and a log depends on many factors:

• from the material (logs, rounded logs, beams, glued beams);
• from the time of harvesting the material (winter harvesting or summer);
• from time of day(in the morning, in the evening) Yes-Yes !!! Do not be surprised - investigated this too!
• from where the forest grew (swamp, field);on the degree of resinousness and density of the tree;
• on the size of the material - both its length and thickness;
• from material moisture;
• on the size of the building;on the construction technology (dowel, type of felling, etc.);
• from the material of the mezhventsovy insulation;from the type of wood;
• from the time of year when construction is underway.

The strongest shrinkage occurs in log cabins made of ordinary logs, then rounded logs, profiled beams, beams, glued beams go to the smaller side.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary, when installing windows in a wooden house, to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase and or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.

Wooden house - Alive

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is not carried out in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a connecting link between the window and the wall. This box is called differently: siege, salary, deck, okosyachka, linden.

As you can see from the photo, the cage is an ordinary window box made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (timber) with either nails, or self-tapping screws, or other fasteners, but is held with the help of grooves in the side posts planted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the window - only tow, jute (linen) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage gap

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the window, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible shrinkage of the logs (timber). During the first years after the construction of the house, this expansion gap will gradually decrease to the minimum, but the upper log (bar) of the opening, if correctly calculated, will not press down or deform the jamb. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not in any way affect the size and shape of the window, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window inside it.

Shrinkage gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house, which has long gone through the shrinkage process, then, disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing construction described here, i.e. are not nailed to the logs of the opening, but are fixed in it using a simple "groove-tenon" system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology of installing windows and doors in a wooden house in a window was invented a long time ago, and is used with success to this day. We will not invent anything new and will go the same way.

There are several ways to install a box (for more details, follow the link):

• t-shaped window - a groove is made at the ends of the logs of the opening, a t-shaped profile is laid in it;
• U-shaped - the spike is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side uprights of the casing).

We make both options, as they provide the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the window not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall in the place where the opening is cut.

In short, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:cut out an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for a T-shaped window;

We form a thorn for a U-shaped window;

We make the details of the window;

We install the window into the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house in a window, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fix it with self-tapping screws of such length that they do not pierce the window through and enter the logs (timber);

We blow out the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the window with foam, not forgetting about the waterproofing device (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for a rough window under the cladding, for finishing it is not required since the window rests against the edge) of the foam seam;

we install external platbands (fasten to the casing);

We make the interior decoration of the window (window sill, slopes - not required for finishing window, since it is the slope and the window sill).

We use foam only inside the box. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute linen.

For the next 5 years (if the house is freshly built), we will have to periodically remove the platbands and gradually reduce the amount of insulation put in there. If this is not done, then the upper parts may bend.

Even after the house has completely shrunk, the gaps around the casing should never be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for the installation of a window in a wooden house

Before cutting out, we mark the window opening with a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly according to the level in all planes, therefore, the window must also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible according to the level initially.

The lower crown in the opening must be sawed off so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.

The dimensions of the opening are determined based on the dimensions of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required clearances.

All calculations are performed visually. Here is an example of a scheme for calculating the size of the opening for a rough T-shaped window:

Accordingly, we take a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a diagram for calculating the details of a n-type finishing box:

For a U-shaped box, we cut out a U-shaped profile from a solid bar.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage at home, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If, for example, we roughly calculate, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window with a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing crossbars, plus mounting gaps ~ 245 mm) at 15% shrinkage, the upper gap will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which, most likely, will end up being unnecessarily large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values ​​of building materials of various tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it easier, namely:

If you are building a new house, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, during the manufacture and installation of a box, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a log house and 40 mm for a house made of laminated veneer lumber;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made as small as 40 millimeters, just to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it out and cut it out. Now you need to cut a thorn at the ends of the logs (timber) on the sides of the opening. The spike is also marked with a level in the center of the log (bar).

The size of the spike is 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We sew the side and lower parts of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making a jig

Firstly, it is necessary to decide on the width of the squiggle bars: it should either be equal to the wall thickness, or be slightly larger, so that later, when installing the outer platbands, they (platbands) fit tightly without hindrance on the jamb, and not on the wall. There is also an option in a house made of logs - bald spots around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, for the manufacture of a window, it is necessary to take a well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure will itself be deformed soon when it dries.

First, we cut out the lower part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill we cut a groove for a thorn 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

Also, at the ends of both window sills, we make small deepenings of 20 mm each for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make the side posts with a height exceeding the height of the plastic window frame by 70 mm. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut out a groove for a spike 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock for the upper part in the side racks.

Last but not least, we make the upper part of the jig. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side pieces.

Installation of a window

We begin the installation of the window in the opening from the lower crossbar (window sill). Then a top is put into the opening, under which we alternately substitute the side racks, placing them on the spikes with grooves.

We fasten the jigs to each other with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not necessarily), coat the joints with a sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the parts do not bend.

We plug the upper shrinkage gap with a soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external platbands. More details in the article ""

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Now you can start installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window by aligning it with the front edge of the window. It is not necessary to bring the window inward by a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, due to the lower thermal conductivity of wood (less freezing depth).

Moreover, with a small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, by deepening the window into the opening, we will have to cut the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that forms as a result on the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as the measurements taken with a thermal imager show, the profile itself is the main conductor of cold. For more details in the photo report taken from photographs from the thermal imager, see here.

Rough box for trim

If you calculated the dimensions of the opening and the windows as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame when installed in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (we do not make the lower gap anymore, because the support profile makes later, put a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to fasten the frame to the box with self-tapping screws of the size so that they enter the body of the box, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. It is dangerous to use self-tapping screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the box because they will pass through the box and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.

Provided that all the preparatory work was done using a level, the window frame should stand exactly along the window, i.e. the front edge of the window should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Waterproofing a window from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the window, it is necessary to decide with what material we will waterproof the assembly seam from the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If from the sun's rays we can simply close the assembly seam with platbands or strips, then the situation with waterproofing is more complicated, because it must meet two main conditions: not to let water in and at the same time not to prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to long-term weathering.

All these conditions are met by such materials as PSUL, waterproof vapor-permeable tape and special sealant "STIZ-A".
Sealant "STIZ-A" - a one-component vapor-permeable acrylic sealant of white color for sealing the outer layer - is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, including.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, atmospheric precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at temperatures as low as -20 degrees. The only drawback of this material is that it is difficult to find in small containers, and it makes sense to buy a whole bucket when you install a lot of windows. If you choose "STIZ-A" as external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foame the window, then, after complete drying, we cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that we apply the sealant to the cut using a spatula.

Vapor-permeable waterproofing tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with an adhesive sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. Using this tape as a waterproofing tape, orient it correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (do not forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, air passage is possible only in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to "blow" the tape is the outside (street) side.

The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not really matter, but it must be taken into account that the foam, expanding upon drying, not only pulls the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing the platbands), but it can generally tear it off the window or window.

Therefore, if you first of all stick the tape, then immediately screw the platbands or rigid strips on top of it, and only then foamed. Or, first foaming, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special compound, thanks to which it is waterproof and vapor-permeable. Delivered in a compressed state, rolled into rollers.

If you opt for PSUL tape, then buy one that expands more than 30 mm. PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end next to the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to glue the PSUL frame over before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be performed at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

Foam the assembly seam only after the PSUL has fully expanded and covers the assembly gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with waterproofing tape: foam expanding when drying can squeeze the PSUL outward. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL from the street side with platbands or strips.

Internal vapor barrier of windows

On the inside, the foam should also not remain open in order to exclude moisture from the room air from entering it. For the device of internal vapor barrier, you can use a vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use the acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 ("STIZ-B").

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip until foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide glue strip, and the tape is glued to the window. Until the foam under the tape has hardened, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise the tape "inflated" with foam will interfere later.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install the window sills and the starting profile, as when using tape. Nothing prevents you from doing this later, when it is convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It is even a little simpler here: you do not need to drill holes to install slopes - we fix everything with self-tapping screws into the tree (in the window).

Also, it is not required to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam or other material. To play it safe, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the assembly seam before installing the slopes. This will be enough, because the tree does not freeze as deeply as concrete or brick.

Okosyachka as - windowsill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve more, in my opinion, an aesthetic effect, but this will require a good woodworking machine to evenly cut the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, into which it will be install a plastic window.

What is a reverse quarter can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which the window frame will be installed from the street side. The depth of the quarter is 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: for a 5-chamber VEKA, the profile thickness is 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 70 mm.

It is important to accurately calculate the size of the window and the window, carefully assemble the window and install the window in the opening exactly according to the level - the inner lumen should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all the edges of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without skewing. In order not to be mistaken in the dimensions, it is better to first make and install the window, and only then accurately measure and order a plastic window on site.

Let's say that the window is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made in such a way that it turns out to be slightly larger than the "clearance" of the casing, or rather: 10 mm wider and the same height. From the inside, such a window will not enter the window, but it will easily enter the opposite quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will "hide" for a quarter of 5 mm on each side (it is no longer possible - the hinges of the sash will interfere), and an assembly gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the box with self-tapping screws, as described above. A D-shaped door seal can be used to provide a nice sealed fit between the frame and casing from the room side. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the size of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But as practice shows, with high-quality production of a jamb, there is no need for such an addition. The window is placed directly in the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the window.

When attaching the frame, we press it tightly to the quarter, squeezing the seal, and screw in the self-tapping screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window is foamed from the street. Then, after the foam dries, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with a waterproofing tape or sealed with STIZ-A sealant, platbands are installed.

Of course, since we refuse from the internal finishing of the casing with any additional elements, we must refine it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.

First of all, you need to give the lower crossbar the shape of a window sill so that with its inner edge it protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.

Second, we make the "dawn" of the inner surfaces of the racks and apex, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in section) shape of these elements and cut out a large chamfer, simulating the turn of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and varnish it. You can paint the wood in the desired color to match the casing surface with the color of the window and / or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting but more expensive option - to brush the surface, i.e. processed semi-antique.

Artificial aging of wood for antiques is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of the brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the wood surface using a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the embossed texture, the wood is cleaned from pile and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately varnish the wood, but the "aged" wood will look much more impressive after processing with a stain of the color you need. However, there is an even more effective way of painting - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved using paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth until the paint has time to dry. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. You can then rub the surface with a soft cloth to add gloss.

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and most practical solution that favorably affects the microclimate in the dwelling.

Fundamental in the presented case is that when it shrinks, the window system and walls behave monotonously. The decisive role here is played by their installation according to technology.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber structure has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while shrinkage is no more than 2%.

If there is warping of window structures, the formation of inter-crown gaps in the walls or cracking of the glass unit, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

1. In houses made of chopped wood, rounded logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install a window support after shrinkage of the house (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
2. The installation of windows after the construction of a log house is not rational due to the lack of the possibility of calculating the shrinkage of the walls. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber.
3. In houses made of laminated veneer lumber, installation of windows is allowed immediately after erection of walls and installation of the roof of the house.
4. The installation of windows must be carried out exclusively by means of sliding joints - support beams and casing. It is strictly forbidden to strap window blocks and the structure of the window to logs or beams. Tight fastening during shrinkage leads to a violation of the integrity of the window modules and walls of the building. In fact, the window system has to be balanced separately with respect to the wall.
5. In the upper part above the window frames, it is necessary to provide for a shrinkage margin - gaps of 6-7 cm. Miscalculations of spare gaps can lead to poor closing of windows or gaps in the walls.

Installation diagram of wooden windows

Preparation of a window opening

Before installing the box, prepare a window opening. The opening should be rectangular without cracks, depressions, distortions and other flaws. It is necessary to remove construction debris, dirt, dust and layers from all its surfaces.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, it is required to make accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening.

In the case when the skew of the opening is significant, and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the parameters of the window in such a way that the highest level of the outer opening exceeded the width by 2.5-4 cm and the height by 1-2 cm.

The extension makes it possible to install an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in the areas of maximum skew.

In addition to the option of expanding the dimensions of the opening to correct the skew, there is such an option as increasing the parameters of the window frame.

Siege

A special design, which is a wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is to securely fasten the window and maintain the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, is called a casing or jamb.

There are several types of this design:

1. Solid. It is made from a specially processed solid material.
2. Sticky. The individual components are made of type-setting boards connected by means of micro-grooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
3. Mixed. Part of the casing is made in one piece, and the other part is made using glue. Upon completion of the installation, the window is coated with varnish. This type is suitable for using large window sills.

The window is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if an internal lining is planned, then a sample can be made for it. When facing on both sides, the sample is not taken.

Casing assembly can be started after the window opening has been prepared.

Its manufacture is carried out as follows:

1. In the base, which is adjacent to the window hole, grooves are grinded. A bar of the same size is inserted into them, which serves as the side of the casing.
2. First, a bar is placed at the bottom of the opening., which will prevent the displacement of the side elements.
3. A sealant is placed under the timber from linen tow.
4. A sealing material is placed in the grooves. and mount the side boards.
5. The final stage is fastening the top board of the structure.
6. On top of the window, a space is left for wood shrinkage and it is filled with a sealant. So in the process of shrinking the logs, the load will not affect the window opening.

Installation of windows

The window is installed in the following sequence:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on the lower part of the opening. and a sealing material.
2. Install the window frame and fix it with wood pads or wedges.
3. Using a building level or plumb line, they adjust the horizontals and verticals. In this case, one should pay attention to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
4. On each side of the opening, with a step of 50 cm, holes are drilled.
5. With self-tapping screws fix the box.
6. Insulate the space between the box and the wall sealing material.
7. Next, the frame is mounted. It is installed in the grooves of the box and fixed to it with screws.
8. Window blocks are installed on the frame using hinges(separable and non-separable). The difference between them is the possibility of recessing the hinge. Detachable ones are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window transom. Smooth fastening of the hinges contributes to the even hanging of the window transoms. They are fastened with screws.
9. The sash is locked by means of a locking element or a latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, fasten the frame using nails.
10. Next, proceed to the installation of window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges go into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
11. Immediately before installation, using a lime-gypsum mixture, align the bottom of the window opening.
12. The window sill is fixed by means of wedges. After laying the thermal insulation material, it is finally fixed.
13. Installation of ebbs is carried out from the outside of the opening- over the entire width of the frame penetration into the base.
14. The gaps between the casing of the base and the box, as well as the upper and lateral sides of the window, are covered with a casing. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house was built as platbands.
15. All parts of the casing are interconnected. To do this, use thorns, nails or glue solution.
16. Placement markup is performed beforehand fasteners (step is 10-12 cm).
17. So that in the process of fixing the platbands they do not move, the structure can be glued.
18. The final step is fixing the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws., and closing the gaps between the base and the platbands with a sealing material.

1. For the manufacture of casing, wood is used with a moisture content of at least 10% otherwise, cracks will form inside the structure over time.
2. It is strictly forbidden when making a jig. use metal fasteners.
3. Do not use building foam as a sealing material for casing assembly. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural shrinkage.
4. In the process of installing windows, it is important to make the holes for them correctly. The optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
5. Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing a window, even if the house was built many years ago, and the frame is completely dry. This is due to the fact that throughout the entire service life the tree tends to shrink.
6. For greater efficiency and heat retention, wooden windows should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening.
7. It is necessary to choose hard wood as the material for the window sill. A window sill made of glued wood has the longest service life, a window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is subject to warpage).
8. The corners of the window opening should be 90 degrees and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base exceeds the allowable value, more sealing material will be required. If you do not ensure that the corners are even, the box may warp.
9. It is important to correctly calculate the planting depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point contour equal to 10 degrees passes in its inner part. Then condensation will not form on the inside of the window.

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How to fix a window: an overview of fastening hardware and a photo report on the installation performed

Hello. In this article I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using an affordable tool... I hope you find this topic interesting, as editing skills can save you money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you a glass unit cheaper due to self-installation. The money savings are clear!

Basic information about window installation

Installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures to compensate for the mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation in a wooden house is carried out with the obligatory arrangement of a casing box, which compensates for the loads due to shrinkage processes.

There are two main requirements for the installation of plastic insulating glass units:

• The strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
• Correct leveling relative to the vertical and horizontal plane;
• Correctly performed gap sealing around the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fasteners for the installation of double-glazed windows in a PVC profile

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel with a plastic seal; c - universal plastic dowel; g - screw (self-tapping screw); d - anchor plate

Before proceeding to the description of the installation, I propose to find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased in hardware stores. There are many fasteners and such a variety is not accidental, since each variety is designed for one or another type of walls.

Window fasteners are divided into the following categories according to the type of walls:

• for concrete walls;
• for the installation of brick walls;
• for installation in aerated concrete walls;
• for fastening to wood.

By the way, with the use of the listed fasteners, a protective grill can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows in concrete openings are installed by means of anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

To securely fix a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long or thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished product will depend on how accurately the hole is drilled. If the walls of the hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fastening hardware will not provide the required installation strength.

Installation with anchors is carried out in two ways:

1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and the window structure is fixed to the opening through the plate.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, an anchor plate can be used, since the fasteners can be covered during finishing if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of simple or complex configuration. Plain plates are regular perforated strips. Along with such devices, there are "crabs" - plates that cut into the profile due to which the finishing of the slopes is simplified.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

Fastening plastic windows in a brick opening is performed in about the same way as in. But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, the holes for the anchor in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls, the holes are drilled in place, since you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the seam of the masonry.

For installation in a brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum entry into a brick in which you can be sure that the fastener does not loosen or loosen when exploitation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is extremely rarely used, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without a casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, squared and frame buildings.

If a casing is installed in the opening, installation can be performed with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws with a length of at least 10 cm with a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the self-tapping screws in steps of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore we select special dowels for installation and perform installation with a small pitch between the screws.

The installation of glazing in aerated concrete walls requires detailed consideration, since an increasing number of houses are being built using such blocks. That is why, in order to get acquainted with the installation technology, I propose a small photo report on the installation work done.

Installation of a plastic window into the walls of aerated concrete blocks

To complete the installation work, you will need:

• Perforated anchor plates (160 × 40 mm and 2 mm thick);
• Plastic dowels (50 × 10 mm) for fixing in aerated concrete;
• Metal universal screws (60 × 6 mm);
• Electric drill and drills in accordance with the dowel diameter;
• Screwdriver with a set of bits;
• Water level;
• Roulette and pencil.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• If the perforation in the anchor plates does not correspond to the diameter of the dowels, we drill the holes, if the diameter initially matches, we skip this stage and go to the next one;

• Along the perimeter of the profile, we screw the anchor plates onto the self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located outside;

In order for the frame in the opening to be securely fixed, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

• We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it horizontally and vertically;

• After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in the aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforation in the anchor plates;

For drilling aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with victorious surfacing. Since the aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the drill that was previously used for reaming the anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to jerk the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is easier than ever, and as a result, the dowel will not stick to the wall.

• We screw the dowels into the drilled holes;

• Screw the screws into the screwed-in dowels;

At the end of the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, since they will provide additional stability to the structure.

• From the spray bottle, we abundantly moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
• We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with polyurethane foam, so that the excess of the applied foam comes out from the outside and the gap is completely filled;
• After the foam dries, the excess is trimmed with an assembly knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how to attach a thermometer to the window and not punch holes in the profile in vain?

It turns out that there is nothing difficult, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with lugs and mounting holes must be mounted on wooden rather than plastic frames. But, if a thermometer with holes for screws is available, fix this device to the profile with short self-tapping screws - there will be no harm to the profile from this.

In conclusion, I note that if you do not know how to fix the handle to the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will pass through the PVC and will be held in the metal one.

Output

Now you know how to install a PVC window block in the opening of walls of different composition. Hope the suggested instructions were helpful. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

September 24, 2016

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