Choosing and laying tiles in a bath: features of cladding in wet conditions. Floor tiles

First, on the options for arranging the plinth that you described. GVL definitely cannot be used. Plain plywood, too, will swell. There is a special moisture-resistant plywood, though quite expensive. It can theoretically be used. But only with this option for arranging the plinth, a greater thickness is gained. Of course, this is quite subjective, but such a wide baseboard will not look very good. Better then, in general, carefully cut the tile back to back in the wall, without a baseboard. Water will not stand there anyway, if you make a slope of the floor surface towards the ladder. Tiles with this option are laid with a small gap between the edge of the tile and the wall - about 5 mm. Then this gap must be filled with a special parquet sealant or silicone to match the color of wood or tiles. But if you still stop at the option with a skirting board on moisture-resistant plywood, then write, then we will think about how to equip such a skirting board. In the meantime, I will describe in more detail the plinth that we have made more than once and tested in practice.

The sequence is as follows:

1. you open the log at the level of the future plinth with a CT 16 primer or an analogue (I did not write about it before, but we consulted with the builders, and in your case it will be better with it). This primer will increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the tile adhesive to the wood. After it dries, the surface will be rough. Dries about 12 hours.
2. with a step of about 25 cm, drill the screws into the wood at about the middle of the skirting board. Self-tapping screws for metal, 45-50 mm, preferably with a wide head. Determine the protrusion of a self-tapping screw made of wood by eye. On those two walls, where the gap between the tile and the log is large, the self-tapping screw will protrude a little more there. On those walls where the gap between the tile and the log is less, there the self-tapping screw can be almost flush, only so that the cap protrudes. As a result, the tile adhesive will catch on the cap plus on the rough surface of the log (pre-treated with CT 16 or similar) and the tile will hold better.
3. On those walls where the gap between the tile and the wall is larger, you foam there with construction foam, after the foam hardens (after 24 hours), cut off the excess.
4. Now you can attach the tiles to CM11 tile adhesive or similar. I write Ceresite stamps just because it can be bought in almost any city. But any analog will do. It's just that we are in different cities (I am in Kiev, you are in Samara), and I don’t know what kind of mixtures and glue are in your stores. That's just why I write the most popular brands. And you can pick up the analogue there at the place. Let's go back to the tile :-). The glue must be rubbed well so that there is 100% filling between the log and the tile, without voids.

Now for additives:

• in a screed rough You don't need to add anything;
• in screed finishing you need to add a common plasticizer, for example Sika BV 3M or similar;
• tile adhesive:
  • laying tiles by screed with a coolant (cable). If you will use a special glue designed for laying tiles on heated floors, for example, ceresit glue CM 117, CM 17 or an analogue. That such glue has increased elasticity, due to which the difference in expansion of concrete and tiles is compensated. And you don't need to add anything else to such glue. If you use ordinary tile glue, for example CM 11 or an analogue, then you need to add CC 83 elasticizer or an analogue to it.
  • laying tiles on the plinth... Here it will be enough to use ordinary tile glue, for example CM 11 or an analogue. There is no need to add any plasticizers or elasticizers to the glue to attach the tiles to the skirting board. The details of why are described in mine above.

Important! Any additive to concrete (plasticizer, elasticizer, etc.) must be added strictly according to the instructions. If you put more additives than it is written in the instructions for use, then the chemical composition of the solution will irrevocably change, and the solution will simply deteriorate. In this case, they often say - "the solution has burned out". The solution begins to crumble, crack, etc. You can see one example of a similar case, which is described by one of our readers in the question.

As a damping tape, it can be used in 2 layers of a laminate backing (it is usually made of expanded polyethylene, as well as a damping tape or of thin EPS). You can stick to the wall with an ordinary construction stapler. Or, to fill the thermal seam, you can cut into thin strips of EPS.

You will have one finishing screed. There is no need to make several ties on top of the insulation. Especially thin, as shown in your last diagram. Such thin ties lag behind. Place the beacons on the slope and immediately pull one tie with the desired slope.

Today I will add drawings: the skirting board assembly and the general view of the floor with all the screeds.

In a wooden house, there was a desire to arrange the floors with tiles - this is not a bad choice. This solution is acceptable not only from a decorative and aesthetic point of view, but also from a functional one. The equipped plank base with tiles can perform the functions of fire safety, waterproofing and additional strength of the floor. It is advisable to arrange tiled floors in the kitchen, corridor, bathroom,.

In our article, we will reveal the technology of laying tiles on a wooden floor, how to perform the assigned work with high quality and correctly, and provide an order of the sequence of the main stages of arranging tile floors on a plank base.

Assessment of the condition of the subfloor

Actions to prepare for laying tiled floors without fail require an examination of the state of the structure, since the wooden floor in our log house is arranged on wooden floor beams. In the case of an industrial self-leveling floor, the situation would be much easier, but we are not looking for easy ways. But the choice is always yours.

Of course, the solution to the problem of laying tiles would have been much easier if the house was made of wood. When using a monolithic foundation, it is only necessary to prepare the floor surface with a self-leveling screed, and the process would go further. In any case, it is worth adhering to the main requirement when arranging tiled floors, and even more so on a plank floor base: the base must be strong, rigid and, within the limits of permissible loads, not deformable.

If the floors creak or move under load, then it is worth disassembling the floorboards and checking the general condition of the log. When examining, you should pay all the main attention to the logs on which the floors are laid. The logs cut into the lower rims of the log house, which gives a direct dependence of the condition of the floors on the process of shrinking the house. In this case, the deformation of the floor depends on the general condition of the lower rims in the places where the logs are cut. It is worth inspecting the logs, if necessary, they can be replaced and a complete reconstruction made, or you can get by with separate strengthening measures. If the logs require replacement, it is worth using larch wood or pine with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm. When installing the logs, you need to leave a gap between its end and about 5 cm (equal to the thickness of one layer of foam). The logs must be treated with fire protection, and between the logs and the support lay waterproofing from.

In the modern construction of log cabins, a constructive solution for the independence of floors is often used, in which the floors and walls of the house are not interconnected.

Further, when examining, it is worth paying attention to the condition and arrangement of the support pillars. Construction experts, if the support pillars are in good condition and do not require replacement, recommend installing additional intermediate supports. Additional supports are made of concrete pillars, metal pipes with welded pads, or posts of red baked bricks are laid out. If at the time of the arrangement of additional supports for the logs there is no possibility of using red fired brick, then when using ordinary bricks, the columns must be additionally plastered with a mortar of cement and sand. The columns on which the ends of the lag will rest are recommended to be built with a maximum shift to the base of the house, taking into account the need to use thermal insulation.

For additional rigidity, the lag structure should be spliced \u200b\u200btogether with a nailless connection "". With the above reconstruction, as a result, we will get an independent single structure, since it does not touch the walls of the house in any place.

We proceed further according to the prevailing circumstances: we will perform the flooring from previously removed floorboards, we will put in order or replace the boards that require replacement or repair. The boards are rallied together with the help of metal brackets hammered into the logs, and then we press them together with wooden wedges. Boards with logs are connected with a nail fight or self-tapping screws. In another version, it is allowed to lay a sufficiently strong material directly on the logs, for example, plywood, chipboard (chipboard) or gypsum fiber board (gypsum fiber sheets).

Preparing the base for laying tiles

If the floors are in a satisfactory condition and have passed the mechanical action successfully, then proceed to the next stage - we prepare the base for laying the tiles.

The tile cannot be glued, therefore there is a need for a screed. The heterogeneity of materials (screed and base) requires the use of a separating hydro-vapor barrier between them. The first release layer to ensure the independence of the floor and screed will be bituminous paper. We will cover the paper with reflective thermal insulation about 4 mm thick. When laying, a layer of paper and thermal insulation must be placed on the walls, observing the required supply of material according to the future height of the screed layer. After pouring the screed, the protruding material can be trimmed.

Fill the screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm, using a previously laid masonry mesh to give it additional rigidity and solidity. The masonry mesh must be raised one third above the surface of the release layer so that the mortar can penetrate under the mesh. The mesh is raised as follows: steel reinforcement with a diameter of about 12 mm is laid under the mesh, which is fastened to it with a viscous steel wire with a diameter of about 3 mm.

We will make the main first layer of the screed from a cement-sand mortar in a proportion of 1/3 with a mixture of fine gravel. Pouring the first layer over the entire area must be done at one time. The screed drying process can take up to several weeks, for example, 1 cm of the screed dries for about a week. The screed should be sprayed with water once a day to prevent cracking of the surface, and cover the surface with a film. When drying the screed, it is necessary to avoid drafts and sudden changes in temperature in the room.

The second layer of the screed will be the final stage in the technology of surface preparation for laying tiles. We will make the screed from a cement-sand mortar, observing the horizontal surface and using beacons, for example, a square steel pipe with a size of 10x10 mm. The care process for the second layer of screed during drying is identical to the first. In the second layer, as in the first, cement screed, an ideal flat surface can not be achieved.

Preparation for laying tiles

We successfully completed the main and most important stage of preparation of the base and surface for tiles. We will also be able to carry out further work on laying the tiles. But before starting the process of laying ceramic tiles on the floor, you should purchase everything you need: tools for laying tiles and materials for laying.

From the tools we need a level, goggles, a glass cutter, a small rug (on which we will rest with our knees when laying the tiles), a clean rag and sponge, a rubber float, a pencil and a tape measure, a hammer and a serrated scraper. You also need to arm yourself with the following materials: tile spacers (crosses of the required size), tile adhesive, putty mixture (for grouting the gaps between tiles), silicone sealant, liquid silicone sealant and, most importantly, tile.

When choosing a tile, it is worth considering that floor tiles only lie on the floor, and only walls are faced with wall tiles. Floor and wall tiles may look the same, but there is a huge difference between them: floor tiles are much thicker than wall tiles, and the surface of the floor tiles has been treated to prevent slipping. You should know that when buying a tile, you need to make a certain stock of material, taking into account pruning and for subsequent repair. It is better to purchase two or three square meters more tiles at once, since the production batches of the produced tiles may differ slightly in calibration and coloration, which can lead to a discrepancy with the already laid tile.

Before gluing, the tiles should be soaked in water (about 50 minutes), so that they do not intensively absorb moisture from the adhesive - this can affect the quality of gluing. How to use the correct composition for gluing tiles to the floor can usually be read in the instructions on the package.

Tile laying technology

Tile laying technology implies thinking in advance about the location of each tile. This process is worth paying attention to and spending some time. First, remove the skirting boards (if installed) and door frames. Find the middle of the longest wall of the room and draw a line from it along the floor at the angle required in each case (for example, 90 degrees). We will carry out the same procedure with respect to the other wall. As a result, we get two intersecting lines.

Guided by the two lines obtained, let's try to spread the tile on the floor. We lay out until we find the best location. Some cases require moving intersecting lines. You should try to ensure that the tile is not cut off when laying along the entire perimeter of the abutment to the walls, it immediately catches your eye and does not look aesthetically pleasing enough. When laying tiles on the floor, it is worth knowing that dominant decor items, for example, should be symmetrically surrounded by tiles.

The options for laying floor tiles are endless, but there are only two more popular. For example, the first option for laying a seam in a seam (for an example, see the figure below), where tiles of different colors can be laid out in a checkerboard pattern. The second popular option is "staggering", where the tiles are laid with a shift along the seam. You can choose how to lay the tiles at your own discretion, since we will do the work ourselves.

The glue is applied with a spatula or a spatula in even stripes on the floor, starting from any of the corners formed by the intersection of the lines. The tile is laid on the adhesive by lightly pressing it to the floor surface. To keep the distance between the tiles the same, you should use prepared crosses or ordinary plastic sticks.

From the center of the room we move to the walls, while observing the direction according to the lines. With full coverage of one half of the room, move on to the second, observing the level of the masonry. If the floor surface has a horizontal difference, then more adhesive must be placed under the tile.

We will close the free space between the laid tile and the walls with cut material. To do this, observing the required dimensions, we will cut the tile with a special cutter designed for cutting the tile, on which you can set the desired size. A day later, after the adhesive under the tiles has dried, we will grout the joints, having previously made the joint preparation. Cutting can be done with a matching screwdriver. Grouting is done with a rubber scraper. The scraper gently spreads the solution over the cracks between the tiles in all directions. With a damp, clean sponge, remove the remaining mortar from the tile surface after the grout has completely dried. Polish the surface with a dry cloth.

Tiles are often primed. For this, the entire surface of the porous tile is covered with a special primer for ceramic tiles. Before that, it is worth checking the instructions, since some types of tiles are coated with a primer during production, which protects the tiles from stains.

In the design solution of the premises, it happens that the border of the zones is round. To do this, we need to trim the tiles in straight lines, taking into account small gaps for future rounding. After that we glue the tile in its place and after n% D

The quality of laying tiles in a wooden house directly depends on the preparation of the base. Laying of tiles or porcelain stoneware can be carried out both on floors on the ground, and on beams. Let's talk about how to properly prepare a do-it-yourself subfloor for tiling a trimmer joist.

Basic requirements for tile floor construction

Floors made of porcelain stoneware or tiles must comply with the operational construction and sanitary requirements for the premises where they are installed. If this is a private wooden house, then tile floors are usually arranged in damp rooms (bathroom, sauna, etc.) or where water may get on the floor (toilet, kitchen).

The tiled floor is well cleaned and withstands frequent wet cleaning, therefore, the tiles are also laid in rooms where there is strong contamination of the floor surface (utility rooms, hallway, etc.). The quality of a tile or porcelain stoneware floor is determined by the following properties:

• rigid and durable floor construction;
• smooth, non-slip and even coating;
• resistance to high temperatures;
• moisture resistance;
• high abrasion resistance;
• resistance of the coating to chemical attack of substances (acids, alkalis).

To contain unexpected water leaks in bathrooms and toilets, the floor in them is arranged at least 15 cm lower than in adjacent rooms. The junction of the tile floor to the wall must be protected with a waterproof skirting board.

The clearance when laying on the floor surface of a control two-meter strip for a tiled covering is provided for up to 4 mm. When constructing a clean floor with a slope, its size is allowed 0.2% and 2 cm. The deviation in height between adjacent tiles should not be more than 1 mm.

When laying a tile covering on adhesives, the peel strength of adhesion is allowed not less than 0.5 MPa on cement adhesive compositions and 2.0 MPa - on polymer adhesives.

The air gap in the floors over timber joists must not be connected to the smoke ducts of stoves and fireplaces, as well as ventilation ducts. With an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 25 m 2, the airspace in the floors is partitioned off with boards, dividing into compartments with an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 5x6 m 2.

Floors made of piece materials (tile, porcelain stoneware), with insufficient rigidity of their structure, become "shaky". This creates compressive stresses in the top layer of the timber floor and leads to the destruction of the tiled floor.

The maximum deflection of the beam should be no more than 2 mm. The deflection of the wooden deck is limited to 0.1 mm (calculated for a concentrated load of 0.6 kN).

The permissible loads on the flooring are determined by the calculation for the deflection and "fluctuation" of the joist floor and timber flooring. As a result, for a given span of the beam (flooring) and the load on them, the required section of these elements is selected.

These constructive measures are applied both in the construction of a house and in the reconstruction of the floor. In the latter case, the structure is checked for the action of existing loads and spans of floor elements. If, as a result of the installation of a tile floor (porcelain stoneware), the weight of the supporting structure increases, this is also taken into account in the calculation.

Classic floor composition in timber joist floor:

1. Wooden beams.
2. Subfloor made of solid planks or wooden boards laid on the cranial bar of the beam.
3. Insulation and vapor barrier for rooms with different operating temperatures (attic and basement floors).
4. Clean floor.

Wooden floor structure: 1 - cranial bar; 2 - rough floor; 3 - beam; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - waterproofing; 6 - insulation; 7 - air gap; 8 - clean floor (floor board)

For a clean tile or porcelain stoneware floor, a flat and rigid base is required. It includes a continuous boardwalk, screed and adhesive composition. It is possible to reduce the compressive stress of the floor "clothes" by using a reinforced or dry screed, as well as by using a damper tape around the perimeter of the coating.

Floor preparation for a clean tile floor

All wooden elements of the existing floor on which the tiles are to be laid must be inspected. For this, the floor is opened up to the subfloor and beams. In case of detection of defects in biocorrosion or wood strength, replacement or repair of damaged structural parts is carried out.

Even if the wooden elements are not damaged, they must be thoroughly antiseptic. Insulation and vapor barrier must also be checked for loss of operational properties (caking, wetting, decay, violation of integrity, etc.). The heat insulator, which increases the coefficient of thermal conductivity when wet, must be protected from above with a vapor barrier.

At the same time, we must not forget about the air gap separating the insulation and the upper flooring from the boards, the size of which is at least 3 cm.If it is possible to leave the existing flooring, its surface is cleaned of the old coating (paint, varnish, etc.). To do this, you can use a building hair dryer, chemical "washes", sandpaper or a simple scraper.

Before laying the wood covering around the perimeter of the floor, a compensator for possible deformations of wood from a damper tape is installed on the wall. It is attached to the wall using an adhesive coating or some kind of fastener. Foam can be used instead of tape.

Boards are laid with gaps of 3-5 mm also to prevent deformation stresses in the flooring. It is advisable to fill all the gaps between the individual elements of the wooden covering with an elastic sealant.

Since the installation of a tile floor is justified in rooms associated with frequent use of water, the wooden flooring is protected with roll materials, bitumen, bitumen-polymer mastics or moisture-insulating cement mortars in at least 2 layers.

Screed device

Next, you need a leveling screed device. For the dry version of the underlying layer, moisture-resistant plywood sheets, wood-particle boards, wood-fiber boards are used. They are attached to the wooden flooring with self-tapping screws, and the joints are filled with the appropriate sealant or adhesive for fixing the tiles.

A screed along a layer of moisture insulation from a cement-sand mortar is made using bitumen mastic with sandy dressing (sand fraction 1.5-5 mm) or a roll waterproofing layer with factory dressing. On the wooden floor, the screed must be reinforced. These can be meshes:

• from metal wire BP-I with a diameter of 3-5 mm;
• polymer mesh made of polypropylene;
• fiberglass alkali-resistant with a diameter of 4-6 mm;

The scheme for laying tiles on a wooden base: 1 - cranial bars; 2 - floor beam; 3 - wooden flooring; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - thermal insulation; 6 - waterproofing; 7 - floor board; 8 - roll or coated waterproofing; 9 - reinforced screed; 10 - tiles

Fiber is also used to reinforce the screeds. It is a fibrous material that is made from polypropylene, basalt or glass. There is also steel fiber that is added directly to the dry mortar and mixed thoroughly. Then water is poured in and stirring continues for another 10 minutes.

The thickness of the screed in this version is provided for 10-15 mm. A compensating elastic gap along the floor perimeter is made to the entire height of the screed. A cement-sand preparation tile floor must actually be separated from the structure of the timber floor and walls (floating floor), so that the integrity of the tiled coating is not compromised in case of possible deformations of the wood.

The next step is to apply an adhesive that matches the floor covering. These can be cement or polymer adhesive compositions. So, for example, a polyurethane two-component adhesive composition is quite suitable. The thickness of the interlayer should be 2-3 mm.

It is possible to put a floor made of tiles or porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor. It is important to take into account all the recommendations of professionals and the regulatory requirements of the technology of the device of this floor.

Laying the tiles in itself is nothing extraordinary, but in the course of this process it was necessary to solve the second most important problem in the construction of a bath - how to arrange the floor joint with chopped walls.

But it remains to solve the second half of the problem - to figure out how to arrange the floor joint, more precisely, the tile with the logs of the walls? We have found a solution to this problem. It may not be perfect, but it works, it is not so costly and laborious.

This is what a tiled floor looks like in a steam room. In the center there is a ladder (water drain), so the entire floor is made with a slope to this point.

Unfortunately, at the time of laying the tiles, my vacation had already ended, so we cannot present a large number of photos with the stages of work, but this is not scary, since we will describe the key points in words.

The first nuance is related to the size of the tiles. For rooms where flat floors are planned, you can use tiles of any size - it's a matter of taste. For example, for a rest room, we chose large (45 * 45 cm) tiles of porcelain stoneware and laid it diagonally - this way the tile looks more advantageous, but the expense is high and the cost of laying is more expensive (see photo below). In the vestibule, we did not bother and laid the same tile, but in a straight layout.

The relaxation room has large diagonal porcelain stoneware tiles.

For those premises where you plan to install ladders, i.e. devices for draining water into the sewer, there are significant restrictions. If you want to get a floor from whole tiles, then it is advisable, firstly, to choose the smallest tile, and, secondly, to lay it in a straight layout, starting from the walls.

We have two such rooms: a washing room and a steam room. In principle, it is not necessary to install a ladder in the steam room, but it is quite convenient. We have installed two ladders in the washing room - it happened historically. Now, when we have given up on decorating the analogue of the sink under the taps and the tank with curbs, it was possible to leave one ladder. Well, more, not less.

The floor in the washing room in the process of grouting and coating the joints with a special compound.

To decorate plain floors, you can use the special inserts sold with the main tiles. Since the bathhouse is our brainchild, we decided to pamper ourselves and placed three mosaic inserts in the washing room and two in the steam room. It turned out nice and fresh.

In the next photo you can see a photo of the finished sink with the shelves installed.

Photo of a fully finished car wash.

There are two more points concerning the tiles in these two damp rooms.

Firstly, for washing and steam rooms, do not skimp on the quality of the grout. In addition, if you want to preserve the color of the grout, you can cover the joints with a special compound. This can be done for all rooms, but it is highly desirable for damp rooms.

Secondly, I thought for a long time how to arrange the thresholds of the doors to the steam room and washing room. The fact is that the doors to these rooms are traditionally made lower in height so that heat does not escape. And so that you don't bump your head into the jamb, the door is usually raised above the floor. Thus, the threshold of the door is a hewn log.

I thought for a long time how best to play this moment, and then I realized that reinventing the wheel is not worth it, you just need to put tiles on these surfaces. There are only two nuances here. Tiles are not glued directly to the wood (unless you use some special glue). Therefore, we cut out strips along the width of the threshold from the remains of GVL (gypsum or DSP is also suitable). The GVL strips were screwed to the threshold log with self-tapping screws, and then the tiles were laid on ordinary tile glue (see the next photo).

Laying tiles as sills in doorways. On the side, the joint of logs, gypsum fiber board and tiles is closed with an aluminum sill, painted in a wood-like texture.

The second nuance is associated with the fact that when viewed from the side, a not very aesthetic "pie" is obtained, but it is easily closed with metal sills sold in stores. You can choose a coloring even for wood, which we did - see the photo above.

Well, here we come to the most important question of this topic: how to protect the joint between the floor and the tiles.

Initially, I considered many different options that were recommended to me by both Denis Migachev and colleagues on the forums. We described these options in more detail in the introduction (see the link at the beginning of the article).

After much thought, I nevertheless decided to dwell on the method I had tested of using a special sealant for wooden houses and bundles of expanded polyethylene of various diameters that accompany them (see the selection of photos below). sealing joints of tiles and walls in the house. There is no such humidity and temperature changes, but in the bath you can use multilayer structures made of sealant and harnesses.

Time, of course, will tell, but I am sure that "this scheme will work." I will definitely supplement this article in a couple of years with the results of the operation of such protection. The only thing you should immediately tune in is that in a few months it will be necessary to additionally lubricate these joints, since the logs will shrink and gaps will appear in some places - this should be monitored for the first time.

In my opinion, the applied construction of the floor pie protects the wood of the walls much better than the version with floors on wooden logs with mineral wool between the logs. In our situation, water, even if it seeps through the microcracks in the sealant, can simply roll down the log and "go into the sand."

In addition, the second barrier to the constant formation of condensation in the floor cake will be warm water floors and a powerful oven. The former will allow maintaining a comfortable microclimate in and around the screed. And the oven is really capable of drying out even the rest room overnight after washing, not to mention the steam room and the washing room.

Two more small remarks about the sealant.

In the steam room, we sealed the entire perimeter of the floor and the joints of the lower logs to the height of one crown. There wasn’t a lot of sense to apply above, because in steamy water "knee-deep" is not necessary, and indeed the walls are closed with clapboard.

But in the washing sealant, all the joints of the logs were additionally closed at a height from the floor to 60-70 above it. Those. one crown above the shelves, the joints of the logs must be protected, plus we’ll overturn basins of water on ourselves there, pour ourselves over, otherwise it’s some kind of a real bath. I don’t see much point in closing the joints of the logs even higher. the frame will still sit down and the applied sealant will tear in most places. After 2-4 years of operation, it will be possible to close the entire circuit of the washing room - then it will have a reason.

The second remark concerns the protection of the joints of ladders, pipes, cables, etc. with tiles. Here we used a regular tile-colored sealant (sold in the same place as the tile grout). Considering that the bath will be constantly heated, this is permissible. If constant heating is not planned, then it makes sense to use the previous wood sealant, it withstands frost better.

Well, just a few words about laying tiles in the rest room (see photo below). In a log house, especially from round timber, it is very important to find a reference line from which to build a tile line.

The tilers from the Elsie company (www.elsi-spb.ru) surprised me with their meticulousness in this matter, which, however, turned out to be quite justified. We laid the tiles five times along one wall, then along the other, then shifted the entire block of tiles in different directions until we found the best option.

There was also an incident with the delivery of tiles. If two years ago, tiles for the house were brought in different parties (they were slightly different in tone, and most importantly, they were very different in smoothness). Then this time, the large tile was all from the same batch, but two types of calibration. What is this from the driver, we have not achieved. Then, by measuring different tiles, we realized that we are talking about different sizes. Tiles with a side length of 45 centimeters differed by 1.2 mm. It seems like a trifle, but it immediately catches the eye.

But there was nothing to do, I accepted the load and we began to think how to get out of the situation. The solution, of course, was found. Part of the tile with "alternative" calibration went to the vestibule, and the rest we used in lateral triangular trims, where the difference in size was not so striking.