Place four outlets in a row for spacing. Correct location of sockets in the apartment

Both the construction of new housing and major repairs in a house or apartment involve a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes organizing the input of a common power supply line, creating an earthing loop and potential equalization, installing a switchboard with an energy meter, laying indoor electrical networks and junction boxes, and, finally, installing lighting devices and custom electrical fittings - switches and sockets.

Generally speaking, this is, of course, a task for electricians. However, many work can be carried out independently, provided that the home craftsman has basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, the organization of internal power grids and the skills of general construction and electrical work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of controversy on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be dealt with in more detail.

The main parameters of the correct installation of sockets and switches

It should be noted right away that it is quite difficult to find exact uniform standards for the installation height of switches and sockets, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Any references to existing "European standards" are just a desire to copy the established fashion trend of "European-quality repair", the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.

By the way, the installation standards existed for some time - it was they that guided the builders when erecting residential buildings of mass multi-storey development. Then all the sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (on level eye). In most apartments of the old building, such a layout can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it comfortable and have no intention of remodeling it.

How these parameters are explained is difficult to say now. Perhaps this was due to safety reasons - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the field of view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points - sockets - remain accessible to children, and there are no special safety considerations in this, but a child up to 8-10 years old cannot extinguish the light on his own. Another likely reason for such an installation was that it was always carried out in rooms on top of the walls, and such an arrangement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cable (in the scale of mass construction, which was carried out in those years, the savings were serious).

Nevertheless, today the adopted European standards are more popular, rather than the standards, but the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?

Some building guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning at the stage of building a house):

• Sockets - 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (floor slabs). Thus, after pouring the screed and installing the final floor covering, the height will be about 300 mm.
• - 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm after finishing work.

How is it convenient? The sockets and the included power cables are not striking and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn on or off the light with your hand freely lowered downward. It is possible to teach children to be independent (of course, when supervised by adults) - the switch is within reach ...

It should be noted right away that such "standards" exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.

There are special requirements for the installation of sockets and switches in institutions related to children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid the actions of children with electricity uncontrolled by teachers or educators, these reinforcement elements are installed equally high - at a height of at least 1800 mm.

So, if we talk only about the height of the installation of sockets and in living quarters, then any owner of an apartment or house has three ways:

1 — When repairing, do not change the location of any sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual "Soviet standards" if it seems more convenient and safer.

2 — To alter the arrangement of reinforcement elements according to the European traditions, which were mentioned above.

3 — Provide your own location, based on personal preferences and amenities - this does not in any way contradict the existing rules.

There are much more restrictions and recommendations on other parameters for setting restrictions and recommendations - they are set out in the current rules for the operation of electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:

• The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - provided that special skirting boards are used with cable channels made of non-combustible materials and special types of outlets.

Special socket for skirting - right at floor level

• In industrial premises, however, it is recommended to install the sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with the upper wiring of the network, you can raise them up to 1500 mm. It has already been said about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
• In an apartment, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically block the holes when you pull out the plug.

The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective curtains

• Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be located closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or door openings, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tensioned), then both the wiring and the junction box should be below its level.
• Installing sockets in bathrooms is not recommended. If, nevertheless, it is impossible to do without this, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the door of the shower stall or bathroom. In this case, a prerequisite is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased body tightness and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with its obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of no more than 30 mA.

To finish the question with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install the sockets close to the floor surface. "Design" in such conditions does not play a special role, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling iron or an electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one or even one and a half meters. At the same time, the placement of the outlet above the washbasin is absolutely excluded.

• Switches are usually mounted on the wall at the entrance, on the side of the door handles. Installation height - from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them higher, providing, for example, the ability to turn on using a cord. Very often in small rooms (in hallways, in kitchens, in rooms with a small area), sockets and switches have to be combined with blocks - then the optimal height of such a block is considered to be about 900 mm from the floor - the "golden mean".

In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to replace the old sockets with new ones, the so-called "European format"... They have a hole diameter - 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug is several. Such sockets withstand much larger loads - usually they are designed for currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, the old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).

In addition, if the old outlet location is not connected to ground loop- you will have to tackle this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-pin grounded plugs to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances, connection to ground loop is just a prerequisite). Several - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall

Prices for sockets, switches and frames

Sockets, switches and frames

Some nuances of installing the cable part

Once a general repair is done, it is worth revising the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of ​​at least 1.5 mm². This section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if it is planned to install household appliances of increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.

Conductor cross-section copper wire, mm ²	maximum current at continuous load, A	maximum power load, kW	rated current triggering circuit breaker, A	limiting current triggering circuit breaker, A	scope of application at home (apartments)
1.5	19	4.1	10	16	lighting devices, alarms
2.7	27	5.9	16	25	socket blocks, floor heating systems
4	38	8.3	25	32	climatic equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers
6	46	10.1	32	40	electric stoves and electric ovens
10	70	15.4	50	63	input power lines

It probably makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.

Each outlet (or socket block) must be powered from its own back box

• Each outlet (group of outlets) or switch must be connected to an individual junction box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to the outlet to the other is unreasonable, and in some cases it can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reset of this line with all the ensuing consequences.

• From junction boxes with sockets or switches, strictly vertical wiring must go. This can be explained simply - you can always visually determine the place of passage of power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in an arbitrary order - at an angle (as in the figure, pos. No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (pos. No. 2) from the location of the outlet (switch), then it can become an object of latent danger.

After some time, and this happens quickly enough, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, it will be a "surprise" for the new owners of the apartment. When you try, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or shelf, there is a high probability that a drill will hit an energized power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for large-scale repair of the wiring.

• But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if it is planned to install a suspended or stretch ceiling, the wiring can be placed arbitrarily, as a rule, at the shortest distance. If a NYM-type cable is used, then it does not even require additional protective insulation - it can be attached directly to plastic dowel clamps... Cables of a different type (VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe of the required diameter.

• On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be located arbitrarily, over the shortest distance. However, there are also special caveats here. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed only in metal pipes, ordinary or corrugated.

If a screed is planned, then corrugated plastic pipes are enough

If the wiring is to be filled with a concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.

• The next question is, how often should the sockets be installed, are there any regulations on this?

There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - to install them 1 piece per 6 ÷ 10 square meters of area. However, in all likelihood, these "standards" are somewhat outdated, since the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think over in advance the placement of the main devices and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords in the future. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.

A well-designed diagram will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work

• And one more very important remark, or rather good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical work, you should not be too lazy to photograph all the cable lines, the placement of junction boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is advisable to take pictures so that it is possible to bind hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with dimensioning from a window or doorway, a corner of a room, a heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the desired unit if you need any emergency, repair or maintenance work.

If it is planned, it is better to refer to a special publication of our portal, in which this issue is set out in more detail.

Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair

Cables and wires for construction and repair

Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen

The kitchen is a special space for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with vapors, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, modern kitchen is the focus of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used at the same time during cooking or other household operations, so the level of the total load is usually the highest here.

The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when doing certain household chores. If we consider that many of them need separate power lines, then you can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard):

Household appliance type	Average power consumption	Features of connection to power supply
Electric stove or hob	from 3500 to 12000 W	Individually routed power line
Electric oven	from 2500 to 10000 W	similarly
Washing machine	from 1500 to 3000 W	similarly
Water heater	from 2500 to 7000 W	similarly
Dishwasher	from 1500 to 3500 W	similarly
Microwave	from 700 to 2500 W	Can be connected to a regular 16 A socket
Refrigerator (peak value - only at start-up)	from 500 to 2000 W	similarly
Electric kettle	from 700 to 1500 W	similarly
Food processor (combine)	from 500 to 1500 W	similarly
Bread maker, double boiler, etc.	from 700 to 2000 W	similarly
Toaster	up to 1000 W	similarly
Cooker hood	from 500 to 1500 W	similarly
Waste shredder	from 400 to 1000 W	similarly

Obviously, a lot of sockets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the waste disposer installed in the kitchen sink and for additional lighting of the workspace in the area of ​​the cutting table, stove, sink.

Here, there can be no talk of any standards for the installation height of the sockets - their location should, first of all, to provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection against moisture, for stationary equipment - the secrecy of the placement of wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:

It is clear that there are a lot of options for placing built-in appliances, and if you add to this a variety of desktop electrical appliances and the peculiarities of their use (for example, there are housewives, which are the favorite kitchen accessories are constantly "registered" on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing equipment and laying wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.

• It has already been said about the power of the supplied power lines (cross-section of copper wires) - it is enough to compare the data from the first and second tables above. However, another figure is provided by which you can determine this issue.

An important condition is that the total power of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, provide the ability to simultaneously turn on all points of consumption. This in practice, of course, should not be allowed in any case, but insurance is still necessary.

• For the hob (electric stove) and for the oven ( ifthese are independent devices) special power sockets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same is true if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.

Various models of power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for household appliances with increased power

• If a storage water heater (boiler) with a capacity of over 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I remember connecting it also to a power outlet, or to an automatic machine installed on the wall in a protective box. This unit works in automatic mode almost constantly, and does not really need an outlet.
• The installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:

— On the wall, on top not higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these reinforcement elements behind a standard removable furniture plinth.

- In the cupboards of the kitchen set - provided that this piece of furniture does not contain pull-out or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which can catch the electric cable.

- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water and sewer pipes. In this case, the socket must be sealed with a moisture-proof cover.

- On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for hoods, additional lighting devices, sometimes for built-in microwave ovens or refrigerators. The height of the sockets in this case is not less than 50 mm above the level top surface cabinet.

• To connect tabletop kitchen appliances, the sockets are placed on the wall, about 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, falls at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). should be located above the sink or above the hob - they should be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.

Instead of such a wall-mounted arrangement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules are now actively used - in the form of opening "books" or sliding up to connect "columns" with sockets.

Hidden socket block in the form of an opening "book"

It is very convenient - the wall surface is "clean" and appears only as needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.

Another option for the hidden placement of sockets is a rising "column"

What other principles should be considered when placing outlets:

• The socket for built-in equipment must never be located directly behind the installed appliance - it must be brought out to the side, upward or downward.
• The distance from the device to the power outlet must not exceed 1000 mm.
• All, without exception, the lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.

When planning the laying of power lines in the kitchen, of course, one should proceed from the real characteristics of household appliances. Probably, it would be better to contact an electrotechnical organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this diagram, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of outlets "on the ground" - to determine the places for making the outlet bld in the wall and cutting out strobes for them.

It is possible that there will be an opportunity to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be "put" on the same power line with a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is sufficient for a refrigerator and a specific outlet group. However, the conclusions should still be made by a professional in this matter.

Video: not an easy task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen

In a modern home, many rooms are divided into several functional areas, where different electrical appliances and lighting systems are used. The issue of designing electrical wiring is a crucial stage in the repair. It is necessary to take into account many important points: the type of room, the arrangement of furniture, the number and height of the sockets and switches.

The article contains the standards and requirements for the installation of power points and switches, as well as recommendations for the placement of wiring devices in different rooms.

Standards and Breakers: Myths and Reality

The placement of switches and sockets in the room determines the degree of comfort. When starting repair work, many novice electricians are interested in the question: "What should be the installation height of switches and sockets according to accepted standards?"

In fact, there are no restrictions on the placement of power points. There are some requirements for the installation of sockets in the bathroom, as well as in industrial and public premises.

As for the location of switches and sockets in the apartment, there are some recommendations. To adhere to them or not depends on the purpose of the room, the arrangement of furniture, the comfort of use and your own wishes.

Previously, the following standards were considered generally accepted:

• the distance from the floor to the outlet is 90 cm;
• installation height of switches in the apartment - 1.6 m.

These parameters have their merits, which is why many people still adhere to these standards. Plus the "Soviet" standards - the switch is located at eye level, and in order to insert the plug into the outlet you will not have to bend over.

Recommended standards for the installation height of sockets and switches

Installation height of sockets and switches: PUE

The Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) define the following standards for the placement of sockets / switches:

1. Sockets and switches should be located at a distance of 0.6 meters or more from the doorway of the shower or bathroom.
2. From gas pipelines, any elements of electrical installations, switches and sockets must be at a distance of at least 0.5 m.
3. The recommended height for the switches is no more than 1 m. The optimal installation location is the wall on the side of the door handle. If necessary, the switch is mounted above the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to provide the ability to turn on the light using a cord.
4. The outlet in the bathroom must be connected via an RCD device.

Requirements for the placement of sockets and switches in accordance with GOST and SP

In GOST R 50571.11-96, the requirement is also spelled out, according to which switches and sockets in the bathroom are located 60 cm or more from the door of the factory shower stall.

More detailed information with standards, recommendations for design and power supply is collected in the Code of Rules 31-110-2003. The device of internal electrical networks, namely the installation of switches and sockets (level, height, number) is carried out in compliance with the following rules:

1. The distance from the sockets used to connect air conditioners and stationary kitchen electric stoves to the appliances themselves is not standardized.
2. In the living rooms of dormitories and apartments, one socket with a current of 10 (16) A must be installed for every 4 m of the perimeter, in the corridors - for every 10 sq. M. area.
3. In private and single-family houses, the number of sockets is determined by the customer.

Installation height of sockets and switches: "Eurostandard"

The term "European standard" came into use together with the emergence of the concept of "European-quality repair". For some consumers, such an arrangement of sockets and switches seems more comfortable:

• the installation height of the switches is 90 cm from the floor, which allows you to turn on / off the light in the room while walking by and without raising your hands;
• the placement of sockets is provided at a level of 30 cm from the floor - this distance allows you to hide wires and more comfortably operate household appliances.

American standard for socket placement:

• height from the floor (kitchen table or sink) - 30.5-41 cm;
• the distance between the sockets is 1.8 m (report from the doorway).

Important! When using euro sockets, it is necessary to take into account that the diameter of their pins and the distance between them are greater than those of domestic ones. The current strength of imported outlets is about 10-16A, while that of domestic ones - up to 10 A. Therefore, the installation of European sockets will allow the use of more powerful electrical appliances.

Installation height of switches and sockets in the apartment

Electrical wiring in the kitchen

The modern kitchen is equipped with many electrical appliances: oven and hob, refrigerator, extractor hood, dishwasher, coffee maker, electric kettle, meat grinder, toaster, etc. The design of electrical wiring begins with the creation of a detailed diagram showing the location of furniture and the arrangement of household appliances.

1. To connect a dishwasher and washing machine, refrigerator - 10-20 cm from floor level. This is the best option in relation to the length of the electrical cord of the technique. Some models of household appliances have a short wire, which will not be enough if the outlet is located at a height of 50 cm.
2. To connect small appliances (multicooker, microwave oven, toaster, etc.), the socket is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the tabletop level, or 110 cm from the floor.
3. A separate socket is mounted under the hood at a distance of 2 m from the floor. There must be at least 20 cm from the middle of the hood to the outlet so that the ventilation duct does not block the outlet openings.
4. "Power points" for built-in appliances are best placed behind the walls of cabinets and cabinets. For free access, you will have to cut out their back walls. The recommended installation height of sockets in furniture is 30-60 cm from the floor. In this case, it is necessary to check that the socket is not located directly behind the built-in electrical appliances.
5. It is convenient to place sockets for lighting fixtures of wall cabinets at a height of about 5-10 cm above the furniture.

Important! The total power of the electric lines supplied to the kitchen must be with a margin in order to be able to turn on all consumption points at the same time.

• oven, hob are equipped with power sockets designed for a current of 32-40 A;
• a separate power line is laid for a heater with a power of more than 3.5 W;
• 16 A sockets are suitable for installing a refrigerator, microwave oven, food processor, toaster, double boiler and other electrical appliances.

Sockets and switches in the bedroom and living room

For comfortable and convenient use, it is customary to install an outlet and a switch on both sides of a double bed. Placement height - 70 cm from floor level. This distance allows you to plug in a lamp and place it on the bedside table, charge your phone, and control the main lighting without getting out of bed. Traditionally, one switch is installed at the front door.

Additional sockets must be placed near a desk or dressing table. At the desk at the level of 30 cm from the floor, a block is installed for two or three sockets for connecting a computer. A second block for a couple of outlets should be provided above the writing table (15 cm from the table) for a table lamp.

In the living room, it is imperative to provide several outlets at a distance of 130 cm from the floor, which will be hidden behind the TV. This area should have both regular sockets and an Internet socket. Depending on the arrangement of furniture and the division of the room into functional zones, other "food points" are placed, for example, for a floor lamp near an armchair or a music system.

It will not be superfluous to install a backup outlet, for example, to connect an air conditioner or vacuum cleaner.

The switch in the living room is usually installed only at the front door. In rooms with multi-level ceilings, sometimes "complex" lighting is used. In such cases, it is advisable to place the switches on several keys.

Placing power points and switches in the bathroom

The bathroom is a room with high humidity. All installed sockets must have a degree of protection of at least IP44 and a splash-proof cover, connection through an RCD. Placing sockets near (less than 60 cm) a bathtub, washbasin or shower is prohibited.

• under a washing machine - 100 cm;
• for connecting a water heater - 180 cm from the floor;
• additional socket near the sink for connecting a hairdryer, razor or toothbrush - 110 cm.

Important! The products must not be installed below 15 cm from the floor. This is due to the fact that in the bathroom there is an increased risk of small floods triggered by malfunctioning household appliances or forgetfulness of the owners. So that this situation does not pose a threat to human life, the sockets must be installed above 15 cm.

Switches are usually placed outside the bathroom and placed in front of the entrance.

Development of a project for the placement of switches and sockets. Useful Tips

You can correctly design the location and height of switches and sockets by adhering to the following sequence:

Installation of switches and sockets in buildings for various purposes

For a number of buildings, individual norms for the placement of sockets and switches are provided:

1. The installation height of switches in childcare facilities (kindergartens, schools, camps) is 1.8 m from floor level. Sockets should be installed at the same level.
2. In catering and retail establishments, the distance from the floor to the outlet is 1.3 m. The installation height of the circuit breakers is 1.2-1.6 m.
3. Installation of switches in hazardous areas is prohibited. The standards do not affect the height of the placement, the main condition is the placement of switches and fuses for lighting devices outside the hazardous areas.

Using simple rules, safety standards and common sense, it will be possible to achieve the optimal location of switches and outlets at home. It is better to correctly foresee and calculate everything in advance than to subsequently redo all the electrical wiring.

The issue of the correct location of electrical connectors, that is, sockets and switches, needs to be paid attention to in time, even at the planning stage for the placement of all household appliances. In addition, you need to take into account the number of large and small equipment, according to which the installation of sockets and switches will be carried out.

There is a certain summary of the rules for electrical installation, which the experts are guided by, and you can take a note to become more knowledgeable before starting the installation work.

How to position the sockets correctly

So, the first thing that the installation of sockets can puzzle you is the height of their location relative to the floor level.

In kitchens, sockets should be installed at a height of about 1 m. 30 cm, but this indicator sometimes changes, depending on the size and arrangement of kitchen furniture.

It is good if the main part of all kitchen outlets is located above the work surface, because it is convenient. But, nevertheless, one should not forget that the minimum distance from the sockets to the sink and the gas pipeline must be at least 50 cm.

In bathrooms and other areas with high humidity, the sockets are not allowed to be installed lower than 1 m above the floor.

In addition, their location near a bathtub, shower cabin (or inside it) is prohibited. If the outlet is mounted near a sink, select a higher location to prevent splashing water from entering the socket.

3

In residential premises, the sockets, according to the rules, are installed at a height of 20-30 cm above the floor level.

But it is worth noting that such an arrangement is not appropriate in a house where small children live. If the sockets are already installed, you should choose a design with a special shutter and lock to protect children from accidents.

How to correctly position the switches

You are probably familiar with the time when it was customary to place switches in apartments at shoulder or eye level of an adult, that is, at a height of about 1 m 70 cm. Today, the device for switching lighting devices is installed according to ergonomic convenience.

• The switches are located at the door opening from the side of the door handle at a distance of 10 cm.
• The height of the switches according to the floor is 80 - 90 cm, at the level of the hand down.
• In bathrooms, the minimum distance from the switch to the doorway of the shower stall is 60-70 cm.
• Switches installed above the work surface in the kitchen, as well as sockets, should not be located close to the sink or gas pipeline closer than 50 - 60 cm.

Personal comfort

The above are general standard rules for placing outlets and switches, but in your own apartment you may have personal needs to install them.

So, for example, many people read before going to bed, therefore, a socket for a table lamp is simply necessary near the bed. By the way, it is better to install it according to the rules, at a height of 30 cm above the floor. But, it is better to place the switch a little lower than a distance of 80 cm - ideally, next to the outlet.

1

Modern configurations of furniture: kitchen, work or leisure, - are able to surprise, largely due to hidden possibilities. Such as built-in or under the countertop, retractable organizers with several outlets for portable devices (chargers, electric kettle, laptop) and other modern devices, without which we can no longer imagine our existence.

It should be noted that such built-in sockets must be insulated, especially if they are located on the working surface of kitchen furniture or an island. And the installation process must be entrusted only to specialists, even at the stage of designing the cabinet case.

The daily comfort of all residents of a city apartment depends on the electrical circuit. Most of us know that there are never too many sockets and it is better to place them at a level of 25-30 centimeters from the floor, and switches - at a height of 85-90 centimeters. But this basic knowledge is not enough to make your home truly ergonomic. Brainstorm Buro designer Galina Tishutina compiled a detailed guide for The Village on how to properly plan an electrician in an apartment.

Galina tishutina

Automatic machine and RCD

Once we were faced with the desire of a customer to make a huge shield for a couple of dozen machines in a house built in 1969 with a gas stove. The solution seemed to be very reliable. But in the end, such a large number of machines was not justified.

It all depends on what power the input machine is at the very beginning of the circuit, that is, near the electric meter. The formula is simple: power is equal to current multiplied by voltage. Thus, if your input machine is 25 A, then you will have 25 A x 220 V = 5.5 kW in total for all your electrical appliances in the apartment. What if you turn on a little more at the same time? Everyone knows what will knock out the traffic jams. But let's figure out what is behind this and understand the role of automata.

The machine will instantly turn off in case of a short circuit or in the case of an RCD (residual current device) - with a current leak. Its main task is to prevent heating and destruction of the wiring with a smooth increase in the load. That is, when you turned on too many energy consumers on a winter evening, the machine should work first, take a hit so that the wiring remains cold, and therefore intact. To accomplish this task, the power of the machine must be directly related to the cross-section of the cable that is connected to it.

Hence our main advice: take a close look at what is the material of the lead-in cable (copper or aluminum) in the electric meter of your apartment, what section this cable is and in what condition it is. This will determine the real possibilities for the total power of electrical appliances in your home.

Master switch

If during the renovation you redo all the electrics again, then it is worth making the "hotel" system, which we have already discussed. All that is needed is to bring all the lighting circuits to a separate group of machines in the dashboard. In practice, this is a few additional meters of cable and some effort to lay it. But on the other hand, a master switch can be included in the circuit, which, through a relay, will control this group of machines. The master switch looks like a regular key, and it is better to place it directly at the front door. And if the apartment is small and there is little lighting, then you can get by with an ordinary switch: it opens the circuit up to 2.2 kW, which is quite enough. Now, going outside, you press one button - and the apartment plunges into darkness. But at the same time, all household appliances will continue to work.

Hallway and corridor

For the hallway and corridor, we recommend providing several scenarios. The most versatile are the maximum overhead light, soft illumination of the walls with the ability to adjust the direction (useful for illuminating paintings and other objects) and something point-like. In the hallway, it is very important to correctly think over the illumination of the growth mirror, avoiding contrasting shadows on the beholder's face. Sometimes in the morning, one of the inhabitants of the apartment wants to quietly pack up and leave without waking everyone else up with a bright light, so a conclusion for a small lamp on the table in the hallway would be very useful.

If the corridor is long, then for the convenience of sudden night walks to the toilet or to the refrigerator, you can make the lower night illumination, we call it "takeoff" - by analogy with the runway. You will get additional comfort if you connect these lamps to a motion sensor: they will lightly turn on on their own, illuminate the corridor, indicating the way, and then turn off after a while. The main advantage of such a lighting contour is invisibility and comfort, because the lamps are close to the floor and therefore do not force a sleepy person to squint.

A good idea in the hallway is to think about a place to place a Wi-Fi router and other gadgets, such as a NAS drive. In this place, you need an additional number of outlets and at least an Ethernet cable for switching a smart TV.

Bedroom

In the bedroom, our main recommendation is to use pass-through switches. They are very convenient: you can turn on the light with one switch at the door, and turn it off with another, which is located by the bed. However, you need to ensure that the electrician correctly connects the wires and switches are in agreement with each other on the location of the keys. That is, if at the door of the room you turned on the light by pressing the upper part of the switch, then intuitively you will try to press the lower part of the reciprocal pass-through switch by the bed. And vice versa, and since the pass-through switches do not have a predetermined on position, they work like a swing. This small nuance is difficult to catch during renovations, but it can be very noticeable in everyday life.

Also, in the bedroom layout, we always do a “baby crib check”, trying to simulate the situation of furniture placement, if a baby will also live in the bedroom for some time. Even if you understand that this is not your scenario for the near future, it can be foreseen to make the layout more competent. In addition, perhaps one day it will be appreciated as a plus by potential buyers.

Living room and kitchen

In the living room, as well as in the bedroom, it is important to use the pass-through switches correctly. We recommend duplicating switches for all circuits around the dining table. This is very convenient: without getting up, you can adjust the light around.

Traditionally, a beautiful lampshade creates comfort and romance over the dining table. Use a dimmer to make the light bulb smooth. In this case, place the dimmer at arm's length as well. Consider seasonal lighting as well. For example, determine where the tree will stand and decide where the garland will go. In this case, it is very good to use sockets that are controlled from a switch.

In the kitchen, try to ensure that the light control unit is in the area of ​​the kitchen unit and within the reach of the hostess. In case the illumination of the work surface suddenly becomes insufficient, it should be possible to quickly and easily add an overhead light with one click.

On a kitchen apron, you always want to find a middle ground in terms of the number of outlets: on the one hand, to have a sufficient number of them for all gadgets, and on the other, not to get too bulky blocks of frames. Our advice is to count the gadgets and add them in reserve. Almost everyone remembers about the socket for the kettle and microwave, but in recent years, household coffee makers have come to us, and to them cappuccinators and coffee grinders. There are also multicooker, blender, bread machine and even yogurt maker. How many innovations are still ahead, no one knows, but it would be a good idea to provide sockets for them already at the repair stage.

Bathroom

Over the years of the Soviet past, we are accustomed to the fact that the light switches for the bathrooms are outside. This was primarily due to safety considerations, because there could be significant humidity inside the bathroom, which would lead to oxidation of the contacts. Modern switches have become much more technologically advanced, so we recommend placing switches inside the bathroom whenever possible. In this case, no one can turn off the light for you when you are inside.

We also actively use motion detectors with a 5-7 minute timer for scenarios in which someone only comes in to quickly wash their hands. Even in the bathroom, cozy contours of light at shoulder and floor level always look very interesting - mirror lighting, lamps, floating bathroom lighting near the floor and niches in the walls.

As for the sockets: in the modern bathroom near the sink, in addition to toothbrushes, which are often electric, household irrigators have appeared. It would be nice for each device to have its own waterproof outlet with a lid, because open tees in the sink area are not a very cool idea.

Wardrobe

If you have a wardrobe, then it is better to provide at least two lighting circuits in it. One should illuminate the entire space, so it is positioned high enough. And the second contour should additionally highlight key places, for example, a mirror. And, of course, do not forget about at least one outlet: one day it will definitely come in handy.

Children

The peculiarity of the nursery is that everything changes very quickly in this room. Therefore, we always recommend using a lot of lighting paths, but not being tied to stationary lights and wall sconces to leave maximum flexibility in furniture placement. We advise you to plan outlets for each wall and use at least two circuits of outlets connected to switches so that you can get cozy spot lighting almost anywhere in the room.

PHOTO: cover - Dima Tsyrenschikov,
1 - shutterstock.com/Photographee.eu, 2 -

When starting repairs in a new building, you need to think in advance where and how many sockets and switches will be installed. Proper planning is a guarantee of the absence of extension cords and tees, or at least minimizing their number.

Let's try to estimate the required number of electrical outlets and calculate their cost.

Our goal is comfort in everyday life

When deciding on the number of outlets, it is best to build on the arrangement of furniture, because from it follows the location of electrical appliances (televisions, computers, etc.) in the apartment.

If your imagination allows you, then it is better to even imagine everything the main scenarios that will be implemented by you and people living with you in the same apartment... In everyday life, you should be comfortable using electrical appliances. You don't have to look for an outlet, it should be near you. In this case, there should be enough sockets so that you do not have to waste time turning off other devices.

Do you live alone or do you have a large family? Imagine how your day and the day of your loved ones goes in this apartment, taking into account the proposed arrangement of furniture.

Let's look at a few situations:

• Workaholic's apartment, or life outside the home

For example, you are young, study or have a career, live alone, get up in the morning, cook a quick breakfast in the kitchen, make coffee, go to school or work. In the evening you return home, have dinner, watch movies on your laptop, put your phone on charge, turn on the night light and fall asleep. You spend most of your time away from home. In this case, your choice is a minimum of furniture and a minimum of sockets.

• In the "home office" mode

Let's say you are a freelance designer working from home. Or you love computer games with complex graphics that require a powerful computer. Or maybe you are studying or working as a teacher. Then you need to take care of a full-fledged workplace with a stationary computer and other office equipment, providing the required number of sockets near the desk.

• Underwater world

When counting sockets, it is important not to forget about your hobbies. If you are a lover of aquarium hobby and you have a huge aquarium with filters, water heater, lighting and aeration in your room, then you need to provide sockets for connecting these electrical appliances.

• South facing

The apartment windows face south, and you can't stand the heat? Then you need to provide an outlet for the air conditioner, and it is better that this outlet is located at the top of the air conditioner unit so that the wire does not hang down the wall.

• Hot water all year round

In summer, hot water is turned off in many apartment buildings. Will you provide for a boiler? If so, that it will also need to be powered somehow.

Getting used to living in comfort!

Look at your typical day thinking about the electrical appliances you use. They should be conveniently connected to sockets in those places where it is convenient for you to use them. For example, sockets for hair dryers and electric shavers should be located near the mirror. The long corridor should be provided with sockets for connecting a vacuum cleaner, etc.

How many outlets should be provided in a one-room apartment?

Sockets in the living room

Let's use the principles above and calculate the number of sockets and switches for a one-room apartment.

For example, let's take a one-room apartment with a typical layout of 1KS1 and 1KL1 with an area of ​​47 m 2, located in a modern apartment building in the near Moscow region. The apartment has a spacious living room, kitchen, corridor and bathroom.

An example of furniture arrangement is given on the developer's website. Let's take it as a basis and choose the location and number of sockets and switches.

We recommend placing at least two sockets on each side of the sofa. If a young couple will live in the apartment, then each of them will need two sockets to put the phone and / or laptop on charge, and it is advisable to do this independently of each other. The floor lamp shown in the plan can be connected to one of these sockets.

On the opposite wall from the sofa, there is a wall or TV stand, on which a TV, stereo system, Wi-Fi router, a receiver from a satellite TV set or a set-top box and a router from an IPTV set can be located. It is better to provide three electrical outlets and one low-current outlet for the TV in this place.

Depending on the type of television, it will be necessary to choose the right low-current outlet. We will proceed from the assumption that a television cable from the common house antenna will be brought into the apartment.

There is a chair near the window on the furniture arrangement plan, next to which it would also be better to place a couple of electrical outlets for connecting a laptop or lamp charging.

There is a wardrobe on the opposite wall from the window. If you make a backlight for it, then it will be necessary to provide an outlet for it on the wall where the cabinet is located.

The number and cost of sockets and switches in the living room of a one-room apartment

It is important to note that there is a minimum of furniture in the room, and it seems to be designed to accommodate one adult. In the case of a family with small children, the amount of furniture, its arrangement, and, therefore, the number of outlets would be completely different.

In our calculation, we proceeded from the following assumptions:

• the apartment has modern wiring, all sockets will be grounded;
• only adults will live, so we chose sockets without protective curtains;
• our residents will control the light using a two-button switch;
• the TV is connected to a common house antenna - the estimate includes a TV socket with an F-type connector).

In total, in our calculations, when repairing a living room in a one-room apartment, 10 electrical outlets and one antenna TV will be required.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Quadruple frame, art. 1E52401300, white
Total:			RUB 2178

The cost of a similar set of products from the Florence series in beige would also be 2178 rubles, and in gray and black - 2393 rubles

Sockets in the kitchen

In our apartments, the kitchen is not only a place where we eat. They receive guests in the kitchen, watch TV, and sometimes work. Therefore, not far from the kitchen table, it is necessary to provide at least a couple of outlets for connecting a laptop and a table lamp. In the general specification, we will include two single sockets in a two-post frame.

If a TV is installed opposite the table, then a suitable TV outlet and electrical outlet must be provided for it. It is suggested to place the TV outlet and the electrical outlet for the TV close to the place of its installation, especially if it is supposed to be mounted on a wall on a bracket. This will avoid unnecessary wires hanging from the walls.

In a modern kitchen, the following electrical appliances are permanently installed in the cooking area.

	Hob The power of modern panels is approx. 7 kW, connected through a special power outlet or directly to the terminals provided in the design of the hob from an electric cable)
	Oven
	Microwave Plugs into a separate electrical outlet
	Dishwasher Plugs into a separate electrical outlet
	Hood Plugs into a separate electrical outlet
	Fridge Plugs into a separate electrical outlet

In total, it is necessary to install 5 sockets in the kitchen for large stationary appliances, including:

• 2 sockets in a double frame for a dishwasher and an oven;
• 3 sockets in single frames for a refrigerator, microwave and hood - these devices are usually installed in different places and connected to sockets at different heights.

Often, a coffee machine, an electric kettle or a thermopot is placed in the kitchen in one place, and for them they are “booked” by an outlet on the kitchen apron. A couple more free outlets may be needed for small portable kitchen appliances (multicooker, blender, mixer, coffee grinder, etc.).

As a result, we will place 4 sockets on the tiled apron, including:

• 2 sockets in double frames for connecting a kettle and a coffee machine;
• 2 outlets in double frames for connecting small portable kitchen appliances.

The number and cost of sockets and switches in the kitchen

Let's calculate the price of wiring accessories for the kitchen. Suppose that light control will be carried out on the basis of a one-button switch without backlight.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Antenna TV socket, art. 1E21101300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			2457 RUB

The cost of a similar set of products in beige will also cost 2,457 rubles, and in gray and black - 2,701 rubles.

Sockets in the bathroom

In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide a couple of outlets for connecting a washing machine and a hairdryer. The number of outlets in the bathroom can be large if it is planned to install a bathtub with hydromassage, a shower cabin with an electricity supply for lights and a radio, an infrared sauna, etc.

Two electrical outlets with Florence covers in a two-post frame

Recommendations for the selection and placement of outlets in the bathroom

Installing sockets in the bathroom or toilet (potentially damp rooms) is a crucial part of the renovation. You need to think carefully about what sockets and where you can install them so that their use is safe.

It is best to approach the issue based on reasonable considerations and those recommendations that are spelled out in the regulatory documents. On the one hand, it is unlikely that someone will come to your apartment to find out whether the sockets in the bathroom are installed according to all standards or not. On the other hand, regulatory documents were developed by specialists based on their knowledge and experience, and it would be strange not to take them into account.

If you are guided by the requirements prescribed in the seventh edition of the electrical installation rules PUE (clause 7.1.47) and in GOST R 50571.11-96 (Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 701. Bathrooms and showers), then apartments and in hotels at a distance of 0.6 m from the water source (edge ​​of the bathroom, tap, shower door), sockets with a normal degree of protection can be installed, but with a device that closes the sockets when the plug is removed. In accordance with the PUE (clause 7.1.48), the sockets installed in the bathroom must be protected with a 30 mA residual current device (RCD) installed in the electrical panel.

Several conclusions can be drawn from the recommendations of the PUE. Firstly, sockets with protective covers should be installed in the bathroom. Secondly, the farther we install the sockets from the water source, the less chances of accidental water ingress into the outlet (ideally, take the sockets out of the bathroom into the corridor altogether, but in modern apartments this is usually not possible). Thirdly, protection is provided not only "on site" (sockets and switches), but also by the equipment installed in your apartment switchboard.

It should be noted that even the use of sockets with an increased degree of dust and moisture protection (IP44) does not provide complete protection of the product from water. Based on the description of the degree of protection IP44 in accordance with GOST 14254-96, sockets and switches IP44 can withstand splashes flying from all directions, but do not remain tight when exposed to a jet of water. IP65 rated sockets withstand a gentle jet of water. At the same time, when opening the cover and connecting to them, the IP65 sockets often lose the specified degree of protection and still only withstand splashes. In almost all apartments, the plug of the washing machine is constantly in a dust and moisture-proof outlet, reducing its degree of protection.

The number and cost of sockets and switches in the bathroom

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			RUB 680

The cost of a similar set of products in beige would also be 680 rubles, and in gray and black - 750 rubles.

Sockets in other rooms of a one-room apartment

It would also be nice to install an electrical outlet in the hallway, which you may need to connect the vacuum cleaner when cleaning the apartment.

The cost of a similar set of products in the seriesFlorence in beige will also cost 348 rubles, and in gray and black - 383 rubles.

If the apartment had a balcony, then a pair of sockets and a light switch could also be provided on it, but in the considered version, there is no balcony.

Results: the cost of sockets and switches for a one-room apartment

The total number of sockets in a one-room apartment is 25, taking into account the sockets of the room (10), kitchen (12), bathroom (2) and corridor (1). Depending on the individual needs of the tenants, the arrangement of furniture and the repair budget, this number can vary in any direction.

Based on our reasoning, you can calculate the required number of sockets and switches, as well as estimate their cost for your apartment.

The total cost of Florence wiring accessories in white or beige in our case for a one-room apartment was 5663 rubles, in gray or black - 6227 rubles.

How many sockets should be provided in a two-room apartment?

We will count the number of wiring accessories for a two-room apartment based on the furniture arrangement plan from the developer. Our example is a two-room apartment with an area of ​​58 m 2 with a typical layout NM1.

Since the bathroom, kitchen and corridor on the plan of a two-room apartment do not differ from similar rooms for a one-room apartment, we will use the calculations already made. Thus, for the kitchen we need 12 sockets, we will install 2 sockets in the bathroom and one in the hallway.

Kitchen

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			2457 RUB

Florence in beige would also be 2,457 rubles, and in gray and black - 2,701 rubles.

Bathroom

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Socket with cover, with grounding, screw contacts, art. 1E10501300, white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			RUB 680

The cost of a similar set of sockets and switchesFlorence in beige would also be 680 rubles, and in gray and black - 750 rubles.

The corridor

The cost of a similar set of products in beige would also be 348 rubles, and in gray and black - 383 rubles.

Outlets in the bedroom

In the bedroom, two sockets must be provided on both sides of the bed. If a TV is installed opposite the bed, then at least an electrical and TV outlet in a double frame should be installed on this wall. But let's not forget about various stereo and video equipment (TV set-top boxes, player, speakers and others). Therefore, it is better to plan an antenna and two electrical outlets in a triple frame on the wall opposite to the bed.

There is no other furniture in the bedroom plan. But we propose to install a couple of sockets "in reserve" by the window, if the residents decide to put there an armchair, a small computer table or a dressing table with a mirror with lighting.

To summarize: for a bedroom, you will need 8 sockets and one switch (for example, a one-button), including:

• 3 blocks of 2 electrical outlets in double frames;
• one block in a triple frame with 2 electrical and one antenna sockets.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Antenna TV socket, art. 1E21101300, white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
The frame is threefold, art. 1E52301300, white
Total:			1773 RUB

The cost of a similar set of products in beige would also be 1,773 rubles, and in gray and black - 1,949 rubles.

Outlets in the living room

According to the furniture arrangement plan, there will be a sofa on the left in the living room. We recommend installing at least two sockets on either side of it. Opposite the sofa, in the space between the two windows, the developer proposes to put a TV set. And again, given the possibility of connecting various equipment to it, here we need at least three electrical outlets and one antenna TV.

The space next to the window can be defined as a workplace. Let's estimate what equipment will be installed here? For example, a laptop and a desk lamp, and these are already two electrical outlets. If you need a small "home office" with a stationary computer, then the needs increase significantly: an outlet for a system unit and a monitor, perhaps an outlet for a speaker, plus one for a printer or MFP. And, of course, we must not forget about a free socket - to charge the phone or under a table lamp ... In our calculations, we will take the first, simple, option: we need two sockets near the workplace by the window.

What other furniture is there in our living room? Closet! Many people make a backlight in it, and it involves connecting to an outlet.

We count the number of wiring accessories for the living room:

• 3 blocks of 2 electrical outlets in double frames;
• one block in a fourfold frame of 3 electrical and 1 television sockets;
• 1 socket in a single-post frame.

Let the light in the living room be controlled through a two-button switch.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Antenna TV socket, art. 1E21101300, white
Double switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			RUB 2178

The cost of a similar set of products in beige would also be 2,178 rubles, and in gray and black, 2,323 rubles.

Results: the cost of sockets and switches for a two-room apartment

The total number of sockets in a two-room apartment is 33, taking into account the sockets in the bedroom (8), living room (10), kitchen (12), bathroom (2) and corridor (1).

Depending on the individual needs of the tenants, the arrangement of furniture and the repair budget, this number can vary in any direction. As in the case of a one-room apartment, the most "loaded" room with sockets is the kitchen. This is due to the abundance of household appliances in the kitchen and a modest amount of furniture in the rooms of a two-room apartment.

The Florence design series is distinguished by affordable prices and allows you to meet a limited budget when decorating a two-room apartment.

The total cost of wiring accessories in white or beige in our case for a two-room apartment was 7436 rubles, in gray or black - 8078 rubles.

How many sockets should be provided in a three-room apartment?

We will count the number of sockets and switches in a three-room apartment using the example of a project of one of the new buildings under construction in the nearest Moscow region. An apartment with an area of ​​93 m 2 consists of three rooms ranging from 18 to 20 m 2, a kitchen with an area of ​​10 m 2 and two bathrooms. Consider the furniture arrangement plan proposed by the developer, and on its basis we will try to estimate the approximate number of sockets and switches.

Installation of outlets in rooms, considered in detail on the example of a one-room apartment

Kitchen

The kitchen in a three-room apartment is the same as in a one-room and two-room apartment, both in terms of area, and usually in terms of saturation with household appliances, so the number of outlets in it remains the same.

Sockets and switches in the kitchen:

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Antenna TV socket, art. 1E21001300, white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			2457 RUB

The cost of a similar set of productsFlorence in beige would also be 2,457 rubles, and in gray and black - 2,701 rubles.

Bathrooms

The apartment has two bathrooms. One bathroom is decent in size, so you can install a couple of sockets for a washing machine and for connecting a hair dryer or other electrical appliance.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Socket with cover, with grounding, screw contacts, art. 1E10501300, white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			RUB 680

The cost of a similar set of products in beige would also be 680 rubles, and in gray and black - 750 rubles.

The second bathroom is small in size, and it is difficult to find a place in it for installing sockets at a distance of 60 cm from a possible source of water. In this regard, we recommend placing a couple of outlets in the hallway, directly at the door to this bathroom.

If you need to supply electricity to the shower stall (light, radio, ventilation), then it is best to do this through a dust-and-moisture-proof outlet, or through a dust-and-moisture-proof junction box. However, this equipment is not included in the current calculation of the number of outlets.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Total:			RUB 518

The cost of a similar set of products in beige would also be 518 rubles, and in gray and black - 570 rubles.

The corridor

(traditional version of light control and version with light control from two points).

At the very least, we should provide one or two sockets in the corridor for connecting a vacuum cleaner when cleaning. Light control can be done on the basis of a single switch.

A set of wiring accessories in beige will also cost 348 rubles, and in gray and black - 383 rubles.

The floor plan shows that the corridor is quite long. It is possible to control the lighting from two points so that, when entering the apartment, the tenants turn on the light from the threshold, and, having undressed, turn it off from the end of the corridor.

The cost of a similar set of wiring accessories in beige would also be 744 rubles, and in gray and black - 818 rubles.

Outlets in the bedroom

Judging by the furniture arrangement plan, the room on the plan with an area of ​​19.9 m2 is a bedroom. It contains a bed with two bedside tables, on the contrary - a small wall or a TV cabinet with a TV, there is an armchair by the window. In such a room, it is necessary to install a pair of electrical outlets on the left and right of the bed, a block of three electrical outlets and one TV outlet on the opposite wall, a pair of electrical outlets near the chair, an electrical outlet for lighting the closet.

Let's calculate the total number of sockets in the room 19.9 m 2

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Antenna TV socket, art. 1E21101300, white
Double switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Frame for 4 devices, art. 1E52401300, white
Total:			RUB 2178

The cost of a similar set of products in beige is also 2178 rubles, and in gray and black - 2393 rubles.

Sockets in the nursery

Judging by the bright interior design, this is a children's room, possibly the room of a junior schoolchild or teenager. It contains a sofa, a workplace with a computer, a wardrobe and a bookcase.

On both sides of the sofa, it is also necessary to provide for a pair of outlets, just in case.

At a workplace with a stationary computer, we will provide one outlet for connecting the system unit, one outlet for a monitor, one outlet for a printer, one for a desk lamp and leave one free. It turns out that at a workplace with a stationary computer, it is necessary to provide five sockets. We do not provide an Internet socket, we assume that a powerful Wi-Fi router is installed in the apartment.

One outlet must be provided for connecting the light at the wardrobe. Another socket can be placed at the door for connecting a vacuum cleaner when cleaning, since all other sockets are located far from the entrance to the room.

Let's calculate the total number of outlets in a room of 17.9 m 2. Since this is a children's room, let's take sockets with protective curtains.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, protective shutters, screw contacts, art. 1E10101300 white
Single switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Frame for 5 devices, art. 1E52501300, white
Total:			2368 RUB

A similar set of sockets and switches Florence in beige also costs 2368 rubles, and in gray and black - 2609 rubles.

Outlets in the living room

There is very little furniture in the room: there is a sofa, in front of it is a wall with a TV. With this arrangement, we lay a couple of outlets on each side of the sofa, opposite 3 electrical outlets and a TV outlet, one outlet at the door for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

Description	Quantity, pcs.	Retail price	Price
Earthed socket, screw terminals, art. 1E10201300, white
Antenna TV socket, art. 1E21101300, white
Double switch, art. 1E31501300, white
Single frame, art. 1E52101300, white
Double frame, art. 1E52201300, white
Frame for 4 devices, art. 1E52401300, white
Total:			1662 RUB

The cost of a similar set of products in beige is also 1,662 rubles, and in gray and black - 1,826 rubles.

Results: the cost of sockets and switches for a three-room apartment

The total number of sockets in a three-room apartment is 45, including sockets in the bedroom 19.9 m 2 (10), children's room 17.9 m 2 (11), living room 18.9 m 2 (7), kitchen (12), bathrooms ( 4) and corridor (1). Depending on the real arrangement of furniture and the needs of the tenants, this number can change in any direction.

The total cost of wiring accessories in white or beige in our case for a three-room apartment will be 10,211 rubles, in gray or black - 11,208 rubles.

General conclusions on the choice of the number and location of sockets and switches in the apartment

1. The arrangement of outlets is determined by the arrangement of furniture and the presence of various types of household appliances in the apartment.
2. In modern apartments, fewer than 15 sockets are rarely installed (5 sockets in the kitchen, including an oven, refrigerator, hoods and a couple of sockets at the table; 2 sockets in the bathroom; 7 sockets in the room; 1 outlet in the hallway). If, in your calculation for wiring accessories, you get a smaller number of outlets, then either you have very modest ones, or you did not take into account something, and in the future you will have to acquire extension cords and tees. Review the furniture layout again and go through the "empty" corners.
3. The number of sockets per unit area is the maximum in a one-room apartment.
4. The kitchen often has more outlets than any of the rooms due to the abundance of different types of kitchen appliances.
5. In the total cost of sockets and switches, the largest share is occupied by electrical outlets. This is the most popular mechanism in the line of wiring products.
6. The number of sockets in the room increases significantly in the presence of a workplace with a stationary computer, home theater or an aquarium.
7. Providing sockets for connecting a TV, you need to think in advance whether it will be IPTV, satellite TV or TV from a common house antenna. Each of these options requires a specific plug and a specific type of TV outlet. In our calculations, we assumed that the TVs would be connected to a common house antenna in a “star” pattern through an F-type TV outlet.
8. White and beige sockets and switches are cheaper than similar products in non-standard colors, such as gray and black sockets and switches. At the same time, black and gray rosettes look very unusual and allow you to create original color solutions.

Black wiring accessories on the walls with wood-like textures or gray sockets and switches on the walls in warm bed colors look very stylish.

The article calculated the minimum set of wiring accessories for an apartment and the cheapest options for the implementation of possible technical solutions.

For example, computer sockets for wired Internet were not taken into account, since now Wi-Fi routers are often used that are connected directly to the Internet cable entering the apartment, although wired Internet can surpass wireless Internet in speed. The calculations did not take into account the possibility of using dimmers instead of light switches due to the proliferation of energy-saving (compact fluorescent) lamps.

We enclose some graphs that will illustrate our findings.