How to connect 2 plastic windows. Accessories for windows: how to make a smart climate control and security system based on a simple frame
A metal-plastic window is a rather complex design. Let's consider the basic terminology used by window workers when choosing window and door designs, adding various options and product parameters.
PVC profile
Material produced by extrusion, with a given shape and cross-sectional dimensions, having a 3, 4, 5, 6-chamber structure.
Reinforcing profile
Steel profile, which is located in the middle chamber of the PVC profile and is necessary to give the window structure the required rigidity.
Camera (profile)
A closed cavity (system of cavities) inside the PVC profile of a plastic window in which air serves as additional thermal insulation.
Frame
PVC profile, which is the main (bearing) in the structure.
Sash
The opening window element. It can be swivel, swing-out or folding (transom).
Porch
The junction of the sash with the frame, impost or with the sash.
Hardware groove
A groove in the sash profile for fitting fittings.
Impost
Serves as a frame divider into segments, in which a sash can be installed, or it can be deaf (distinguish between horizontal, vertical and beveled impost). Also, the impost can be installed in the sash (there are nuances described in the technological restrictions).
Stulp
A plastic profile that is attached to one of the flaps and serves to bind these flaps together. One sash is dependent on the other when opening and does not have a window handle.
Shtapik
Serves to hold a double-glazed window or sandwich plate in the structure.
Fold
The surface of the profile, which is the support for the installation of fittings or a glass unit. The sash has an internal rebate (for a glass unit) and an external rebate (for fittings). In the frame and impost there is only a rebate for the installation of double-glazed windows.
Seam pads
Plastic elements with which glass units are installed in the structure.
Sealant
A product made of elastic materials (rubber, rubber compounds) for sealing joints in PVC structures. Usually all profiles are supplied with an extruded gasket.
Expansion profiles
Special profiles to increase the width of the frame.
Connecting profiles
Profiles designed for joining several PVC structures standing in one opening.
Corner connector (square)
PVC profile is predominantly rectangular, used to connect the frames of the structure at right angles.
Bay window profile (variation)
A profile of a plastic window that allows you to choose the angle of arrangement of the frames of a plastic window joining each other from 90 to 180 degrees on semicircular, triangular or polyhedral glazed ledges in the wall of the building.
Connecting strip
Thin PVC profile, with which you can connect the frames of structures without significantly increasing their overall dimensions (3-5mm).
Bone (static)
Connecting profile approx. 20 mm wide with obligatory reinforcement. Serves for joining frames of structures at a considerable height, for stiffening.
Glass unit
Translucent part of the window. Depending on how many glasses are used, a distinction is made between single-chamber (two glasses and one chamber between them) and two-chamber (three glasses and two chambers) double-glazed windows. Mainly used single-chamber double-glazed windows with a total thickness of 24mm and two-chamber - 30-32mm. The glass unit is filled with air or inert gas.
Configuration (formula) of a glass unit
Description reflecting the number, thickness of glass, their type and distance between the glasses in the glass unit of the plastic window. At the beginning and at the end of the formula is the thickness of the glass.
Camera (double-glazed window)
The space inside the glass unit of a plastic window, limited by glass.
Spacer frame
A glazing unit serving as a spacer between the individual panes. Usually the spacer is made of aluminum, less often steel, PVC or other materials.
I-glass (i-glass, energy-saving glass)
Glass with a soft selective coating that improves the heat-saving properties of the glass unit. Delays infrared (thermal) radiation.
Argon
An inert gas used to fill insulating glass units in a plastic window.
Sandwich plate
An opaque panel, which is installed instead of a glass unit. In terms of its characteristics, it surpasses a two-chamber double-glazed unit in thermal insulation, consists of high density polystyrene foam and is lined with hard plastic on the outside.
Tinted glass
Glass, which has been given a certain color by introducing dyes during the glass-making process (tinted in the mass) or by applying coatings (special tinting films) on the glass surface.
Fittings
These are mechanisms and details that ensure the opening of the sash (handle, hinges, locking mechanisms, latches, decors).
Balcony latch
A detail of the fittings of a plastic structure, allows you to fix the balcony door in the closed position without turning the handle of the balcony door (mainly used from the balcony side).
Interlock of wrong (erroneous) opening
Prevents the handle from turning into tilt mode when the sash is already in swing mode, so that the window or door does not hang on one hinge (which can damage them).
Child lock
It allows you to block the swing function of the sash, but leaves it possible to tilt it (to restrict children's access to the open window).
A loop
Detail of the plastic window fittings on which the sash is attached in the frame.
Microlift
Allows to raise the sagging sash when closing, relieving the hinges. Creates additional support for the sash.
Micro-ventilation (slot ventilation)
Small gap when the handle is turned 45 degrees. The micro-ventilation mechanism is installed only in the swing-out doors.
Step-by-step ventilation
It makes it possible to fix the tilt (tilt) of the sash in 4 positions. Achieved by simple manipulation with a window handle. The step-by-step ventilation mechanism is installed only in the swing-out leaves.
Shprossy
These are decorative elements. Shpross is installed inside the glass unit.
Mosquito net
Prevents insects from entering an apartment or house through a pvc window. It looks like a neat element on pvc windows that can be removed if desired. The mosquito net is attached to the outside of the PVC plastic windows.
Jalousie
Light-shielding structure, consisting of horizontal or vertical rotating plates, allowing to regulate the light and air flow passing through the plastic windows.
Visor
The element of the product is designed for water drainage (installed above the structure from the outside).
Low tide
The element of the product is designed for water drainage (installed outside the structure).
Window sill
The horizontal part of the inner frame of the window opening, laid at the level of the lower part of the frame.
Opening (window, assembly)
An opening in the wall for the installation of one or more window units, the design of which also provides for the installation of a mounting seal, slopes, ebb, window sill.
Slope
The part of the window opening located between the window unit and the wall surface. After installing window blocks, it is most often necessary to finish the slopes. This can be done with the help of plaster mixes, or gypsum plasterboard sheets, foamed PVC, a sandwich panel is more often used. Installation of finishing arched slopes is possible.
Lamination (color)
For "colored windows" there are so-called laminating films. They are applied to the profile using special equipment on one side of the profile (or both). Such a film can imitate the structure and color of various types of wood or be monochromatic. Lamination significantly affects the cost of a metal-plastic structure.
Roller shutters
Rigid aluminum movable structure that can be installed as a replacement for the grille.
Heat transfer coefficient
The magnitude of the heat flux through a unit area of \u200b\u200bthe structure with a temperature difference between the external and internal environment of one degree. The higher the coefficient, the better the structure retains heat. The highest rates are provided by 5 and 6 chamber PVC profiles and two-chamber double-glazed windows with I-glass.
Dismantling
Removing the old structure from the window opening before installing the new one.
Mounting
Installation of the structure in the opening, followed by fixing the window (mainly on anchors, anchor plates and polyurethane foam).
Mounting depth
The technological depth of the frame is what we call the thickness of the window in everyday life. This is the distance between the surface of the frame facing the street and the surface facing the interior of the room.
Mounting clearance
The distance between the wall and the frame of the structure. It is filled with heat-insulating materials (foam) and then finished.
Anchor plate
Fastener used to pre-fix plastic windows in a window opening.
Anchor
The type of dowel used for the installation of metal-plastic structures. When installing a window structure on an anchor, it is necessary to remove the glass units.
So now we will briefly go over multi-frame structures... What it is?
A multi-frame structure is a structure that consists of two or more window or door frames that are interconnected with a special profile into one structure.
This is done mainly in order to bring together windows of different heights. In 90 percent of cases, this is a connection between a door and a window.
Take a look at the following photo as an example.
Here you see the classic connection, the window and the balcony door are connected.
In the second photo, you can see this in a larger shot.
Under the number 1, the door frame is indicated, 2 is the connector itself (kopplung) and its visible, external part, 3 is naturally a window frame. (4 is a corner that closes the space between the old window sill and the new window. It has nothing to do with this post. I'll talk later.)
So, each plastic window has special cutouts in the profile on the side, which help to connect to the window either expansion profiles, or a connector, or compensating profiles. The profiles are snapped into these cutouts.
And here is the connector itself.
The connector has three parts. Number 1 is a plastic profile (there are 2 in the connector), which actually provides the connection itself. In this case, the protrusions designated under the number 3 should go into the corresponding grooves on the frames to be connected when joining. At number 4, I marked the outer part of this profile.
In order for the connection to be stable and to ensure the stability of the connected structure, a reinforcing metal profile (number 2 in the figure) is needed, which is inserted between the plastic profiles. But in order to provide thermal insulation, a heat-insulating tape is naturally glued to the connector, on both sides, as shown in the figure under the number 5.
How to connect two windows together?
First of all, at least two people are needed in order for the installation of this structure to take place without problems. Trust my experience, one person will spend 3-4 times more time than two. And this is not to mention the danger of some kind of problems during assembly.
In order to connect two windows, we assemble the connector and fix it at a lower frame height, making sure that the connector fits tightly and without distortions into the grooves on the frame, if necessary, you can knock on the metal, in no case along the plastic profile.After making sure that the connector is installed correctly, drill a hole in the metal profile and screw the fastening screw into the frame. One will be enough since its function is temporary. It is needed only so that the connector remains in place during the assembly of the entire structure.
Now you can install the frame with the connector in the window opening. Then the second frame is installed and tightened with clamps from the first. If the plastic profiles do not fit into the grooves of the second frame, then you can knock lightly on the frame with a hammer. Just be careful, in cold weather the plastic becomes more fragile and can be damaged. In any case, I recommend either a hammer with a plastic tip or a wooden one if possible.
At the next stage, after making sure that the connector is installed correctly (In order to check if the connector is installed correctly, it is enough to measure the distance from the connector to the edge of the frame. Top, bottom and middle. The distance should be the same everywhere.) You can proceed to fastening the connection. ... To do this, using a long drill, we drill the frame, the connector and the second frame to the depth of the screw (we use screws 5 mm thick and 100 mm long) as shown in the photo. The drill diameter is preferably slightly larger than the screw. For example 5.5 or 6 mm. If necessary, apply a little technical grease to the screw when twisting the joint.
We screw in the screws.
If you connect a window with a fixed glazing and drill from the window side, then do not forget
sink the screw under the surface of the frame, otherwise you will have problems installing the glass.
That's probably all. A couple more tips when measuring, take into account the thickness of the connector plus a couple of centimeters of free space, depending on the thickness of the connector, so that you can freely and without problems connect the windows.
And secondly, if you connect the windows in a horizontal plane, and not in a vertical one as I described to you, then you do not need a temporary screw.
Tool:
Perforator, screwdriver, hammer, screwdrivers, construction knife, gun for laying polyurethane foam.
Materials:
Sandwich panel for slopes, window sill and plugs to it, window ebb, foam, sealant, vapor barrier tape, vapor-permeable tape, PSUL, frame anchor, zinc-plated self-tapping screw for metal.
How to measure the window correctly?
In order to order a window unit, you need to correctly measure the window opening.
Consider the measurement of the opening with a quarter (this is such a ledge, found in panel and block houses).
First, measure the width of the opening (size A) from the street side. Using a feeler gauge, make several control measurements of the quarter (sizes B1 and B2) ( fig. 1)
Determine the inner width of the window opening: FROM \u003d B1 + A + B2
Measure the size H from low tide at the point of contact with the frame (point M) to the upper quarter. Using the feeler gauge, make several control measurements of the upper quarter (size B3) ( fig. 2).
Determine the estimated height of the window opening: Y \u003d H + B3
Determine the width of the window block ( fig. 3).
If the size IN< 40 мм
С - (2 × 20) mm
If the size B\u003e 40 mm (Fig. 1), then the width of the window block \u003d A + (2 × 25) mm, where 24 mm is the optimal frame size for a quarter.
Determine the height of the window block ( fig. 2)
If the size AT 3< 40 мм
, then the height of the window block \u003d U - 20 mmwhere 20 mm is the optimal mounting gap.
If the size B3\u003e 40 mm, then the height of the window block \u003d H + 25 mm, where 25 mm is the optimal frame size for a quarter.
There is no quarter in the window block, how to measure?
Measure from the street side. If there is a layer of plaster, set the layer thickness using a narrow screwdriver ( fig. 4, 5)
Determine the dimensions of the window block:
Window block width \u003d A - (2 × 20) mm,
where 20 mm is the optimal mounting gap ( fig. 4)
Window block height: \u003d H - 25 mm (fig. five).
Measurement of low tide and window sill
L ext. from. - the length of the outer slope, L ex. - low tide length
B ext. from. - the depth of the outer slope, B ex. - low tide depth
L int. from. - the length of the inner slope, L under. - the length of the window sill
B int. from. - the depth of the inner slope is equal to the width of the window sill if it departs from the inner edge of the wall by 50 mm
H open - height of the inner slope
L b.p. \u003d H open. + 50 mm - side panel length (2 pcs needed)
L vp \u003d L int. open + 100 mm - length of the top panel (1 piece needed)
L int. open - length of the inner slope
B p. (the depth of the slope panel is) \u003d B int. open (depth of the inner slope)
Preparing for installation
We remove the sash of the window:
Remove decorative covers from hinges.
Put the handle in the "turn" position and open the sash.
Pull the upper hinge pin down with a screwdriver, overcoming the resistance. Keeping the sash from falling out, tilt it towards you and, lifting it up, remove it from the lower hinge.
Reinstall the sash in the reverse order. When returning the pin to its original position, you must fix it with a screwdriver.
Installing the mounting plates:
Install the plate parallel to the frame and turn it 90 °, with the long end towards the interior. Fix the plate with a self-tapping screw with a 4 × 35 mm drill.
Installation of a window block in the window opening.
Install the frame of the window block in the opening according to the diagram:
Using a plumb line and level, align the frame vertically and horizontally. The maximum deviation is 1.5 mm per 1 meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height / width of the product in accordance with GOST 30674-99. At the same time, pre-fix the frame in the opening by wedging it with mounting wedges and spacers.
Bend the plates to the working position and mark on the slope of the opening for fastening the plates. Use a pencil to mark the outline of the opening on the outside of the frame.
Remove the mounting wedges and remove the frame from the opening. Use a 6 mm drill to drill holes for fixing the anchor plate. Insert nylon plugs with a diameter of 6 mm into the prepared holes. Clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust.
PSUL sticker:
PSUL is installed if the window opening has a quarter. If the window opening does not have a quarter, the outer seam is sealed after installing the window frame with special moisture-proof, vapor-permeable sealants. PSUL is attached by means of a self-adhesive layer. Stick the PSUL directly from the outside of the frame at a distance of 3-5 mm from the marking (Fig. 7), observing the following requirements:
cutting the PSUL lengthwise should be performed with an overlap allowance at the corner joints for the width of the tape. It is allowed to join tapes along their length with an overlap of at least 25 mm.
Securing a window block in the opening
Install the frame in the window opening using mounting wedges, according to scheme No. 3, checking the position of the frame with a plumb line and level.
Fasten one side plate each with 5 × 60 mm screws into the pre-installed dowels. Recheck the correct position of the frame with the plumb line and level. Check the difference in the lengths of the frame diagonals of the installed structure:
With a diagonal length of 1 to 2 m, the difference in the lengths of the diagonals should not exceed 2 mm, with a diagonal length of more than 2 m, the difference should not exceed 4 mm.
Secure the rest of the plates.
Remove all mounting wedges, except for the bottom and diagonal ones, according to scheme No. 3.
Place the leaves on the fixed frame, close the leaves and put the handles in the "closed" position.
When installing the balcony block, check the door frames and adjacent windows for mutual deflection by measuring the transverse dimensions according to the diagram.
Foaming.
Moisten the slopes with a spray gun or a paint brush for better adhesion of the construction foam.
Foam the perimeter seam:
- If the joint width is not more than 45 mm, foaming is done in one step;
- If the joint width is from 45 mm to 70 mm, foaming is performed in several stages;
If the joint is more than 70 mm wide, a suitable "window expander" must be used.
Base profile
Put one layer of foam on the outside of the window block along the support profile.
Installation of a "window expander".
Additionally you will need:
For expander 25 mm
- self-tapping screws with a drill 4 × 40 mm;
For expander 40 mm
- self-tapping screws with a drill 4 × 55 mm
Glue PSUL on the outer part of the window block frame. Pull the expander off the frame with a self-tapping screw.
Connection of 2 window units or window unit and balcony door
Additionally you will need:
drill for metal 4 mm, universal silicone sealant, self-tapping screws with a drill 4 × 50 mm
Drill holes in the frame of the 1st window block at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other.
Glue PSUL on the outer part of the frame of the 2nd window block. Fill the outer outer groove of the frames with a universal silicone sealant. Insert the connectors into the outer grooves of the frames. Pull the frames with self-tapping screws through the drilled holes
Waterproofing tape
After the foam hardens in the lower outer part of the window block, cut off the foam so that it does not interfere with the installation of the ebb.
On top of the cut foam, glue the waterproofing tape with an overlap of 10–20 mm to the outer part of the wall.
Final improvements
After the foam has set, cut off excess foam protruding from the seam. Cut the vapor barrier tape according to the length of the installation seam. Remove the protective film from the self-adhesive layer and glue the tape along the entire length of the inner seam.
Further steps:
- Install the ebb from the street side, inserting it into the groove in the lower part of the frame, and attach it with 4 × 25 self-tapping screws to the support profile. Install a window sill from the side of the room.
- Remove the protective film from the frame and sashes.
- Install plastic slopes from the side of the room or plaster the slopes of the window opening.
- Adjust fittings if necessary.
Install decorative pads on the hinges.
How to properly install windows in a wooden house, we will describe in the next article.
The modern metal-plastic version of the balcony door and window creates a wonderful view and comfortable conditions. Installation of a balcony block consists of a number of simple operations, requires attention to detail, but in general the process is simple. This work can, if desired, be done by a person who does not have professional skills in this area.
PVC balcony block consists of balcony door and window... There are different variations of this combination. For example, a window is located to the right or left of a door. Possible option: balcony door between two windows.
Each of the elements of the block, in addition to the swing opening mechanism, can also have a folding one. There are also blind windows that cannot be opened.
The kit includes:
- slopes,
- low tide,
- threshold,
- window sill,
- fittings.
If we consider what a balcony door consists of, it is a frame and a door leaf. The window has a frame and sash.
Preparatory work
It is necessary to free space from unnecessary things and furniture so that you can install a new structure, cover with a film what cannot be taken out of the room, in order to avoid the ingress of construction debris and dust.
To carry out the installation of a balcony block, you should prepare a place for it by dismantling the old structure.
- They remove the sashes of the windows and the door leaf.
- To remove the wooden frame, cut it at the bottom with a hacksaw. After that, remove in parts from the opening, prying with an assembly crowbar.
- Remove the plaster from the slopes, if any, using a perforator.
- Clean the remnants of seals, insulation, and polyurethane foam from the surface of the opening using a brush.
If the previous design was also a metal-plastic balcony block, then its dismantling begins with the removal of all fasteners, screws, linings from the frame after removing the inside of the doors and windows.
The opening should be freed from finishing to the main wall.
Step-by-step installation of a balcony block
To work on installing a balcony door and window, you will need tools:
- bulgarian,
- foam gun,
- jigsaw,
- roulette,
- screwdriver,
- level,
- puncher,
- rubber mallet.
- drill,
- stationery knife,
- a hammer,
- square,
- marker,
- scissors for metal,
- mount.
Assembling the balcony block
Before installing the plastic balcony block, the door structure and the window structure should be connected together. To do this, you need to put a window unit with a balcony door on the upper sides, dock the side parts. Between them should be placed connecting strip... It is necessary to check carefully that the upper sides of the frames that are on the floor are in line. For this operation, you must select a flat surface.
Advice: If the window has a movable sash, it must be removed for convenience during installation. In the door balcony block, the door must be removed from the hinges.
The two sets are connected with screws. For them, holes are made in advance at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other in the frame of the door block and they begin to twist the structures from its inner side. After that, a single balcony block is obtained.
Choosing fasteners
The balcony unit can be attached using:
- pegs,
- anchor plates,
- anchor bolts.
Each type of attachment has its own advantages and disadvantages and can be chosen for the job.
Tip: Select anchor plates for fastening. In this case, installation can be carried out without separating the frames and glass units.
Preparing the balcony block for installation
Mounting plates are fixed on two lateral and upper horizontal surfaces of the frame. They are attached with screws. Fifteen centimeters retreat from the corners of the structures and the plates are installed so that they are turned towards the inner side of the block. Between the extreme plates, intermediate plates must be attached at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 cm from each other. in the middle of the block width into the profile recess.
PSUL tape is glued along the perimeter of the block from the outer edge. This is a sealing element prescribed by the regulations to protect the polyurethane foam from moisture and UV rays.
If provided, at this stage the brackets are screwed onto the window for its fastening. They try on the mesh so that it evenly covers the opening, outline the places for installing the brackets and attach them with screws.
Installation sequence
Consider how to install a balcony block with your own hands:
- If the kit includes a threshold, then you can immediately start installing the block. If it is absent, you should start the installation from it.
It is recommended to use plastic mounting wedges rather than wooden ones - The unit is placed on stands (mounting wedges), which remain in place after the end of the work, cannot be removed. They are provided for each vertical block element. In order to orient the structure in space strictly vertically and horizontally (transverse elements), stands of different heights are used.
- Temporary fixation in the opening is also done using mounting wedges.
- Check the level of the correct location in the planes: horizontal and vertical. Wedges are used to correct errors... It is convenient to use them as paired elements. The building level is placed on a horizontal block element. If necessary, correct - hammer the wedges in the desired direction with a hammer. After that, a level is applied to the vertical component of the block and its location is adjusted with wedges, which are installed on the left and right between the block and the wall.
- Now fix the block by fixing pre-prepared plates... They are neatly unbent and pulled up to the wall so as not to move the block verified in space. To fasten the plate through the hole of one of them, drill a hole in the wall with a perforated drill, eight centimeters deep.
Use a screwdriver to screw a screw into this hole, attaching the plate to the wall. And so all the prepared mounting plates are sequentially fastened.
Installation of an ebb for an open balcony
- From the workpiece, the ebb is cut off with scissors for metal along the outlined line, a part that corresponds to the width of the window.
- From the side of the balcony, a drain pattern is installed, screwed to the profile from the mounting kit.
- On the outside of the window opening, you can, if desired, install decorative corners. The gaps between the drain and the wall are filled with sealant on both sides.
Sealing the gaps with polyurethane foam
In accordance with the standards, the upper horizontal seam should not exceed twenty millimeters in width, and the side seams between the block and the wall can be up to fifty-five millimeters, depending on the size of the structure. From the side of the premises it is necessary fill the gaps with polyurethane foam, leaving one third of the space free... This will be the technological gap that the foam will occupy after solidification and expansion.
In order for the foam to go through all the necessary technological stages, the seams are left alone for a day. After that, the excess of frozen foam is cut with a special knife. A high-quality seam should not have voids in its structure.
Installation of additional parts
Do-it-yourself installation of the balcony block is almost complete. It remains to finalize the details.
Window sill device
The window sill is adjusted in size so that it fits well under the window. Its width should allow it to slide two centimeters behind the window frame when installed.
Bars should be made from pieces of wood, which are placed under the part to be installed to avoid its deflection. The bars are sized to provide a two-degree sill angle.
A load is placed on the element, and then the joints are filled with polyurethane foam. The load is needed so that the solidified foam does not lift the structure.
Filling the joints of the windowsill:
- first at the junction with the window,
- lateral sides,
- under the windowsill at the junction with the wall, but not to the very edge.
After a 24-hour technological break, you can remove the cargo.
Internal slopes
Slopes on the balcony block can be plastered or a decorative detail can be installed - special internal slopes. Sandwich panels are often included. They will make the appearance of the slopes modern and aesthetic, in addition, they will insulate the opening .. You will find the answer to it in our article.
Councils for the organization of lighting on the loggia. You will learn how to conduct electricity to choose the right lamps.
Sequence of work:
- Pieces of the starting profile are prepared according to the size of the length of the upper frame and side surfaces.
- The workpieces are fastened with screws along the perimeter of the block from three sides.
- Measure the required dimensions for the top panel and side pieces.
- Cut the panels to the desired size.
- The panels are inserted into the screwed start profile, first the top part, and then the side elements.
- One edge of the panel turns out to be fixed in the profile, and under the part of the panel protruding into the room, a small amount of foam is sprayed into the gap between the element and the wall, slightly bending the structure and then pressing it into place against the wall. Until the foam hardens, the slopes at the design positions are held with masking tape. After a daily break, the scotch tape is removed, the excess foam is cut off.
Decorative platbands
- Platbands (F-profiles) of the required size are prepared.
- Parts are put on the ends of decorative panels; in the corners, a forty-five-degree connection should be made.
- The joints of the side and top panels, as well as the bottom of the side decorative elements with the window sill, are sealed with silicone sealant.
Installing a balcony video block
Here is a video on the topic of our article on how to install a balcony block yourself. In it you will find useful tips from professionals.
