Tool for grouting tiles. Which rubber trowel for grouting is more convenient to work with? Apparatus for smooth grouting of tiles

It remains to analyze in detail what tool is needed for this.

Tools for stirring grout.

The easiest option is to knead the grout in buckets, in which the grout mixture with hydrophobic properties is sold. The usual one is sold in paper bags.

You can stir by hand with a trowel. The shoulder blade should be long and rectangular. This shape makes it easier to stir and remove from the bottom. A narrow metal spatula is less productive.

Stirring the grout by hand with a trowel.

Videos often show grout stirring with a drill or screwdriver.

Perhaps at low revs. But this is another additional tool. Which needs to be washed, stored, bought, transported. The gain in time is small. Except when grouting tiles on the supermarket floor.

At this stage, another important tool is needed - a brush for washing the trowel and bucket.

If you leave without rinsing (there are a lot of such advisers) and then simply knock to sprinkle it, then everything will not fly off. In the new grout (and in a different color), pieces of old dry grout from the bucket will come across.

Cleaning of grouting tools with a brush with water.

Tool for applying grout between joints.

Trowels for grouting were considered separately. The best turned out to be for grouting Litokol epoxy grout. It crushes the mixture perfectly. They are comfortable working in corners thanks to the sharp edges. This is the opinion of the majority who tried it in work. Those who did not do this are still rubbed with a narrow piece of rubber.

Tool for applying grout to joints.

Tools for washing grout and cleaning tiles.

For this stage of work, you must have two tools:

A spatula for cleaning grout from tiles and a piece of soft foam. The beauty of the seam depends on these tools.

The professional spatula is made of high quality plastic and porous cellulose. Another such tool can be called "rubber coated plaster float".

There are many analogues. You cannot name them otherwise. The problem of the designers of such devices is that they do not overwrite the tiles and do not understand the main property of this tool. Having copied outwardly, they want the product to be successful.

Trowel for removing grout from tiles.

The main difference between such spatulas ( in the photo 1-3 ) - soft foam at the base. Often with small pores; it does not pick up the hardened grout well and quickly becomes clogged with the mixture.

Also, the foam rubber is quickly erased, but often it does not reach this, because it falls off the handle. If you buy such a tool, then the whole technology is perceived as nonsense.

With a piece of foam rubber - not everything is simple either. If you take the first one that comes across, it will be enough for 2-3 working days. It quickly crumples and turns into a rag. To erode the grout on the tiles, with such foam rubber, you have to press harder. From this, depressions appear at the seam.

I felt the difference by chance, having bought a piece of pink foam rubber at the market. It is more expensive.

Pink furniture foam rubber.

The trick is in the density and rigidity of this material.

Foam rubber is made for various needs. The cheapest is packaging or soundproofing. This is the one most often used for washing. It quickly collapses and does not absorb water.

It is necessary to use pink furniture foam rubber. It has more density and stiffness. It does not wrinkle after repeated squeezing. Such material serves for a year without loss of quality.

The thickness also varies. From 20mm to 100mm.

The optimum is 40 mm. With a greater thickness, it is necessary to rinse more often and more thoroughly. The grout remains in the middle of the thick piece and hardens. With a smaller thickness, it collects water poorly.

Pink foam rubber 40 mm thick.

There is a denser foam rubber in the furniture industry - blue. There was no such work experience.

Below is information about the classification of foam rubber for furniture. There is a detailed explanation of why the packaging material loses its elasticity:

By choosing the right tools and using them correctly, there is no need for a round spatula to form a seam. The latter has a drawback - to smear grains of paint along the seam (for some grout).

Tools for cleaning tiles from plaque.

This is the last step in trowelling. On it, it is necessary to remove white plaque from the lined surface, which appears after the cement grout has dried.

You can use a simple dry cloth. It will work. But if you imagine the evolution of this instrument for me, then there will be such a chain.

Work gloves\u003e burlap\u003e a piece of towel\u003e felt glove.

The last option turned out to be the most effective. Such gloves are used in welding. Sometimes they are called “welder's gloves”. The pile removes plaque well and will never scratch the tiles. One mitten is enough for a long time.

You can also use a tougher option. Sanding sheets Scotch Bright for hand sanding. This material has many variants of embodiment. It is necessary to use products that do not contain abrasive material.

They are good for removing frozen grout in pits and deep patterns on the tiles.

Felt mittens.

It is necessary to clean the plaque after the seam has completely dried.

Dry tiles after grouting.

In such a state, as in the photograph, it is too early to wipe off the plaque. The seams are damp. By removing plaque, you smear the grout on the tile again. You can, again, rinse with clean water with foam rubber. The next day there will be less plaque and it will be easier to remove it. The more there is a dilution of the cement grout with water, the weaker it is.

Epoxy grout tools.

All of the above tools can be used to apply epoxy grout.

Only, in this case, some become disposable. The pores on the epoxy spatula and foam are clogged with a drying epoxy mixture. They lose their performance. With significant volumes, one set is not enough, you have to change.

Tiler's bucket - is it necessary for trowelling?

Tiler's bucket.

This tool has recently appeared on the Russian Internet market. He was spotted on Western YouTube five years ago.

The main advantage of the bucket for grouting tiles (its know-how) is rollers for cleaning porous material on a grater from the grout mixture.

This innovation allows you not to get your hands wet and work without rubber gloves. Prevents cement attack on the skin. There is no more useful thing in that set. There are disadvantages:

The first drawback is the grater that comes with the kit. The cover is made of soft foam rubber. This is one of the first three options in the photo above.
The second inconvenience is the bucket itself. As a container, it is comfortable and roomy. But this is another container that needs to be moved, stored, bought. The most balanced review of the trowel bucket is here:

No wonder there are attempts to combine the idea of \u200b\u200bcleaning with rollers with already existing containers for working with tiles:

Use a small cleaning bath.
Adapt a simple wallpaper roller.

Grater squeezer.

Roller for cleaning the rubber float.

Grouting tools for large areas.

A set of such a tool in the video below:

There, a mixture is used that is somewhat thinner than usual. Due to this and repeated, repeated movements on the tile, filling of the joints is achieved. There is also a "soft" grout - it hardens for a long time and is easily washed off with a foam sponge.

The second interesting experience is the use of a butterfly mop with mechanical wringing when grouting large areas of tiles on the floor. Its advantage is that the foam nozzle is covered with fleecy microfiber, which makes the mop absorbent, but with a hard surface. The flat surface will not wash out the grout in the joints. Even fast-setting mixtures can be washed with such a mop.

TOOLS FOR REMOVING OLD WASH.

Sometimes the grout is not color-matched or not professionally applied. In such cases, there is a desire to change it. The method of removing old grout from joints depends on the type of grout applied.

If the grout is class “CG2”, with increased abrasion resistance, it can only be removed mechanically:

Grinder or DREMEL mini-drill. The latter is more convenient.

Tools for removing old grout.

When working with a grinder, it is necessary to pass the cutting wheel in the center of the seam without touching the side edges of the tiles. Remnants at the edges, then easily removed with a knife, with replaceable blades.

Ceresit and Sopro grout - soft. They can be cut with a knife or a special scraper.

If the knife only manages to scratch the seam, then this is most likely a Mapei grout or a similar class. Disadvantage of a scraper:

There is a danger of chipping the tiles.
On hard grout, it is not enough for a long time, and in some cases it is useless.

Disadvantages of the knife:

On uneven tiles, corners may be chipped.
In some cases it is useless to apply.

Below is a collection of videos (playlist) "How to remove old grout":

The grout gun is the most convenient tool for filling the gaps between trim elements. It is suitable for working with any materials: natural or artificial stone, paving and tiles, brick, concrete.

A special gun is used to fill the joints of ceramic tiles. This grouting tool helps to make work easier and faster. There are 2 types of pistols:

for grouting stone joints;
for grouting tile, ceramic (clinker) tiles.

All tools of this type are plunger, equipped with a special simple mechanism for squeezing out the mixture. Different models differ in several ways:

material for the manufacture of parts;
color scheme of structural elements;
the volume of the container for the mixture;
the number and type of attachments included in the package.

Any gun for grouting clinker tiles and stone consists of several elements:

the case in which the container for the mixture is installed;
one or more attachments;
plunger mechanism with a piston;
handles.

The plunger mechanism consists of:

metal pusher;
a seal in the form of a solid rubber ring;
piston;
springs.

Professional and semi-professional equipment is equipped with a mechanism that provides increased feed with a weak pressure on the handles. Large models have a welded metal body that can withstand a fairly high pressure. All elements of such structures are galvanized, which prevents the development of corrosion. This is an important point, since the gun comes into contact with wet media during operation.

Nozzles, tube spouts and mix tubes themselves are made of high-strength plastic. It is a durable material that can withstand prolonged exposure to abrasive grouting mixtures. The most popular are STAYER and POINTING GUN models.

The joint filling guns are easy to operate. In order to get started, you need to consistently perform a number of simple steps.

fill the tube with grout;
install the tube into the body;
if necessary, put on the nozzle.

Then the handles of the tool are slowly squeezed, which drives the piston. It is located inside the tube, at its top. When the handles come closer to each other, the spring straightens, which begins to press on the piston, and it gradually drops down. In this case, the mass inside the tube is squeezed out through the spout. This is all you need to know about how the stone and tile grout gun works.

Putty knife

A trowel for grouting is a highly specialized product, represented by several types of this tool. Craftsmen know how important its form is, on which labor productivity largely depends. Equally important is the size of this tool for finishing and plastering work.

The most popular among professionals and novice craftsmen is a rubber spatula for grouting gaps between finishing elements. These tools are made from a material that is durable and flexible enough. Stores sell sets of two, three or more spatulas of different sizes. The color can be any, but the most common are white, gray and black. The shape is rectangular or trapezoidal.

For a beginner who has no skill in finishing work, it is advisable to buy a set of spatulas. In this case, you can test each one in practice and choose the one that is most convenient and provides high labor productivity. The length of the rubber band can be from 5 to 50 cm. Such spatulas are suitable for working with any kind of mixtures. However, cement grouting often requires the use of a metal trowel.

A round trowel is essential to form a beautiful seam line. Outwardly, this tool resembles a piece of elastic and at the same time elastic wire.

Other types of tools

In order to make high-quality grouting, you need not only a spatula. There is a set of tools and devices, each of which is designed to perform any one task. So, to apply the mixture by the slurry method, you will need a trowel for grouting, on the underside of which there is dense rubber.

It is not difficult to work with this tool: a small amount of the mixture is collected on the canvas and distributed over the tiles. Moving the grater diagonally up and down, fill the joints with grout. Collect the next portion of the mixture and repeat the process. This is done until they get tight seams.

To give them evenness and smoothness, you will need a special trowel for grouting. An integral accessory for the tile-maker is a soft foam sponge. With it, excess mixture is washed off and uneven seams are eliminated.

Over time, the mixture between the tiles begins to darken, fungus or mold may appear. This is due to the insufficiently high moisture resistance of the composition used to fill the cracks. In this case, a grout pencil, which is also called a "grout marker", will help out. And outwardly, the tool corresponds to the name: it has a spout, a removable cap and a hollow body, inside which there is a white or colored antiseptic composition. The tile marker paints the joints in the desired color, masks stains, disinfects.

Joint Grater Hardy For working with epoxy grout, with a special hardened surface. To grout the tile joints, you will need special tools: a rubber trowel, a joint molder, and a trowel (for grouting mosaics and small tiles).

Grouting tool in Russia

If the grater fails, then acid cleaners are needed. In this way, you should not throw away the accompanying documents immediately after purchasing the grout. You can remove this plaque with a piece of clean cloth, gauze or additionally wiping with a clean and well-wrung out sponge. If glue remains on the surface of the tile, it may be difficult to clean.

Line up and smooth out the seams with a joiner, a wood stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush. For best results, fill the joint along its entire length, rather than around an individual tile. If you will only be covering the seams with sealant, use a small brush.

Foam trowel for tile joints

Wait a few minutes and check again. Then trim the edges of the seams with a sponge. A regular porous sponge is perfect for this. After processing the joints with jointing, the surface must be completely cleaned. After two passes, rinse the sponge thoroughly. Thoroughly clean tiles and joints and let dry for a few days.

In this case, the colorants penetrate into the porous structure of the upper layer. The gloss is applied to the floor after the grout has completely hardened. You can moisten the tile surface with a garden sprayer. With it, you can test a small area of \u200b\u200bthe surface. (Another reason grout can crack and crumble is too much liquid when mixing the grout.) For example, some tilers apply dry grout over the joints (to help the wet grout dry faster).

If grout sets very quickly, wet removal of grout will be tedious. In any case, all tile joints must be of the same shape and depth.

When grouting a joint, try to work with the joint, and not trivially smear the grout over the entire surface of the tile. After a while, they start wet cleaning. During the grouting process, the liquid will leave the grouting joint, this way the material will harden and the joints will be filled with particles of cement and sand. There are many tricks for cleaning grout, some of which are quite unusual. With cement grout, such problems will not arise. Use a paint roller if you will be sealing tiles and grouting joints. (If this happens, just add some grout to the joint and smooth the joint surface with the edge of the trowel.)

Grouting ceramic tiles

Then, using a sponge, you need to trim the edges of the seams. The stronger the resistance, the tighter the seam is filled and the stronger it will be. First fill the horizontal, and then the vertical seams. If you've worked with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away.

Squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first set, you should tamp the grout into the joint with a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is larger than the width of the joint or jointing. The fact is that the wider the seam is, the more likely it is to crack. The size of the joint depends on how the edges of the tiles are processed. After half an hour, you can remove the excess grout.

Thus, we fill in all the voids around the tile. Begin cleaning when the grout remains in place. (If you move the sponge quickly or intermittently, grout streaks will remain on the surface of the tiles.)

Recommendations on how to grout tiles. What materials are needed?

As a result, the joints should be tightly filled with grout. If the tile is unglazed, the top and side surfaces of each tile must be moistened.

The grout should be elastic and tight, but not hard. Rinse first and squeeze out the sponge well. Take a tool with an abrasive coating. This is to prevent the unglazed surface from absorbing moisture from the grout.

What is the fastest way to grind the joints on the tiles: all the subtleties of grouting ceramic tiles

It can be removed without difficulty. After cleaning the surface, wipe it with a well wrung out sponge. The material in the seams should be tight and elastic, but not hard.

And the appearance of condensed salts on the seam is almost inevitable. Important: such grouting can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, negatively affect the skin and lungs. Usually, all horizontal seams (along the x-axis) are filled first, and then vertical (along the y-axis).

Grouting when laying ceramic tiles

Do not go to extremes and make too narrow seams. When using square tiles, it is best to make 3mm seams. Too wide seams visually suppress the tiles.

Epoxy grout is quite difficult to work with due to its high viscosity. The classic way. In this case, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and allow the seams to dry out. A sponge can be used to assess the readiness of the surface of tiles and grout joints for cleaning: moisten the sponge as hard as possible and then test a small area of \u200b\u200bthe tiling surface.

Self-grouting of tile joints

The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. Then apply the sealant following the manufacturer's directions. Cleaning can be started when the grout remains in place. For this purpose, jointing is required. Over time, the seams treated with such a composition will begin to turn yellow under the influence of moisture. Apply the prepared solution evenly to the surface of the tiles (if floor tiles are being processed, you can simply pour the solution out of the bucket) and distribute with a trowel, choosing the appropriate option (for wall or floor).

It is better to start grouting from those parts of the room that the furniture will later hide - you can practice before working on "critical areas". Squeeze out a little more grout than appears to be necessary. Manufacturers recommend wet cleaning with acidic substances, such as, say, "Detergres". Continue this process until the entire cladding area is completely cleaned, being careful not to pull the grout out of the joints again with the sponge.

All about grouting tile joints

Cleaning should be started when the grout has not yet hardened, but is not pulling out of the joints.

It's better to read them carefully first. Tile grouting begins with the selection of suitable materials for this. If the grout has seized very strongly, then you will have to use an abrasive float to remove it (it does not leave scratches on the tile surface).

Using tiles of irregular shape - wider (but not more than 12 mm).

Cement-based grouts differ in the additives that make up the material. It is very important to give all seams the same shape and depth. To do this, using a clean and well-wrung out sponge, make a passage about 1 m long, turn the sponge upside down and make another pass. Use the freshly washed side of the sponge for one pass. It is a dry mixture that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use.

The duration of the interval between the stages is determined individually and depends on the conditions of the room and the type of trowel. Too waterlogged grout can also contribute to the destruction of the seams. We repeat the procedure several times.

High-quality grout for tiles in the bathroom - materials and work steps

When all the joints are filled, you will need a trowel to remove excess grout, which must be held at an almost right angle to the surface of the tiles (as shown). After the compressed grout has set in the seam (it takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush. This is especially noticeable when tinted grout in dark colors is used. The sponge must be moved strictly parallel to the seams.

Such grout is absolutely not suitable for rooms with high humidity levels. The grout must be tight and elastic. It is better to do this before purchasing.

Tools for painting and finishing works

Use a very damp sponge for evaluation. Before starting grouting, the joints and the tile itself must be moistened with a little water. We take all reasonable precautions to protect your privacy.

For effective filling, work along the entire length of the joint, rather than around individual tiles. Move the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing the ridges and filling the existing indentations with a small amount of grout on the tip of your finger (wear tight rubber gloves for this). Hold it at a 30 degree angle to the tile (as shown in the photo) and apply the grout diagonally across the tile surface (as shown).

How to dilute tile grout

A stiff brush will help to cope with this task. If you do this quickly, streaks will remain on the tiles. If the tile has smooth sharp edges, then it is better to make the seams flush with the tile surface.

The next step is to inspect the grouting joints, aligning and smoothing them with a jointing (wooden stick with a sharpened end) or a toothbrush. The best is to fill first the horizontal and then the vertical joints. You should first try cleaning on a small fragment of the cladding.

It should be held at a 30-degree angle to the tile and the grout should be applied diagonally. In this way, while working, use respirators, rubber gloves and goggles. This will help prevent deformation of the seams.

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How to grind the seams between tiles

Rubber spatula for grouting, selection rules

The completed look of the laid tiles will be given by competent, neatly executed grouting of the tiles. This is the final touch on which the overall impression of the work done depends. In order not to spoil the inter-tile joints, to perform a critical operation successfully, you will need a good tool. Such a device will be a trowel for grouting, which will help put an end to the repair work in the bathroom.

The result of the work depends on the correctly selected grouting device, therefore it is important to know the types, features of the use of various spatulas and their care. The tool can become a universal purchase for both a novice home craftsman and a professional specialist.

Description of the trowel tool

From the usual metal plastering and painting counterparts, the trowel for grouting is made of a solid alloy piece of rubber with cut edges, like a knife blade. The plasticity of the material and the ability of the spatula to bend allow:

work gently and carefully with decorative surfaces without the risk of surface damage;
significantly facilitate the work in sealing hard-to-reach places due to design features.

A distinctive feature of the rubber spatula, in contrast to the paint analogue, is the large size of the tool, the working blade of which reaches 80 cm. In operation, this factor creates an advantage, since it accelerates the execution of grouting on a large surface of walls or floors. Very tiny models, up to 4 cm, are often used, suitable for processing corners, difficult places.

For convenience, the rubber spatula is equipped with a wooden or plastic handle, which corresponds to the general lightness, plasticity of the tool, adapted to grout tile joints with various finishing compounds in the form of cement or epoxy mixtures. Handleless varieties are suitable for grouting in corners, difficult niches and other hard-to-reach areas.

The purpose of the spatula

The rubber spatula in construction and repair work is intended for:

for grouting tiles, parquet joints;
removal of the remnants of the building mixture.

The works are of a finishing or restoration nature of varying complexity, so maintaining the surface without scratches or other damage is an important factor. Appliances of different sizes are used depending on the size of the processed plane.

The low price of a set of several copies of tools makes them consumable. Rubber is ideal in terms of quality characteristics material for dense and reliable grouting.

Tool requirements

The device of the spatula, at first glance, is so simple that it seems impossible to spoil the tool. But practice shows that there are details and properties that affect the comfort and productivity of work:

a pen. It must be adapted for long-term operation by means of a convenient design that does not allow hands to be contaminated with the trowel mixture. The shape of the handle should help to apply pressure to the grout, fill in the joint or tile joint.
Grouting ceramic tiles: step by step instructions and tips

Adequate pressure will seal the composition, enhance performance;
rubber sheet. The shape, density, plastic properties should serve for the unhindered collection of excess mixture from the tile after filling the joints, and the tapered edges should serve to press the grout even in the corners. Surface cleaning should be complete, without the possibility of filling the pores, as well as small cracks.

The rubber and rubber blades of the spatulas are similar in appearance, but differ significantly in wear resistance and durability. The versatility of rubber lies in its waterproofness as well as chemical resistance. Rubber ages quickly and either decomposes or becomes brittle and breaks.

Rubber spatula

Multi-layer rubber spatula

Types of spatulas

Among the huge variety of spatulas, these devices can vary:

in shape: popularity in the first place is a trapezoidal rubber spatula, followed by a rectangular, then a rectangular with a rounded edge, figure eight and a wedge-shaped;
by color: the main colors of rubber are black and white. This is not just a color, but a reflection of the rigidity of the canvas. The black version is tougher. It is more effective for them to compact the grout without leaving voids. The white version is softer, softer, suitable for finishing joints, as well as tile seams;
by handle type: Many tools are equipped with a trapezoidal plastic handle. This is a convenient option, but the staple handle is believed to be more efficient at work. The price of such models is higher. The choice depends on the amount of work, intensity of use. Options for grouting tools with wooden handles or holders are also found, as are solid rubber sheets without handles;
by purpose: grouting and for pointing joints: Grouting with cement or epoxy grout is performed with basic types of spatulas. The jointing is done with a special round rubber spatula. This kind was introduced by Kiilto, and then other manufacturers began to add similar models to packages with grout.

The need for such a device for the formation of a seam has always been, before the craftsmen used improvised means, used a piece of electric cable with a cross section of 6-10 mm.

It should be noted that a round trowel can be used effectively when the grout is soft, but with a hard grout, the formation of a joint is more difficult.

How to use the tool correctly and in what cases

The technical rubber of the tool is perfectly sharpened: the blade in production is cut at an angle. The location of the chamfer is the working side of the trowel. The tool is ideally suited for difficult areas, adapts to any shape: cylinder, arc, cone. Models without handles of various shapes are needed for grouting joints, joints behind pipes, in arched finishes, niches. The rubber tool is suitable for processing the seams of tiles and decorative stone, sealing the joints of linoleum, parquet, ceramics. Puttying work with a rubber trowel must not be carried out. Neither the design nor the handle is adapted to these types of work.

Experts believe that the process of grouting with a rubber tool is convenient and can be adjusted to two main movements: bring the mixture on a spatula to the depth of the seam, and then remove excess from the surface. The jointing gives the finished look, the final relief. Sometimes the jointing is done with the rounded side of a rubber trowel, sometimes with a handle or a separate tool.

The main thing to remember is that trowelling works are carried out after the tile adhesive has completely dried.

Remains of dry grout are removed from the surface with a clean or new (if available) rubber trowel. If it was washed, then you need to wait until it dries completely. You need to hold the tool almost perpendicularly, do not press hard, so as not to remove the applied mixture from the joints of the tile or stone.

About quality, manufacturers and cost

The use of the "right" tool is the key to successful and high-quality work, a professional approach to finishing.

Manufacturers of the companies STAYER, SPARTA, FIT, the domestic company "Zubr" have taken into account the experience and practice of using spatulas to make them as convenient and versatile as possible.

You can buy the tool at retail, small and large wholesale. Depending on the size and design features, the price per piece averages from 45 to 80 rubles. The cost of sets of three rubber spatulas (40 mm, 60 mm, 80 mm) ranges from 50 to 80 rubles. White rubber is valued higher, by about 10%. Buying a tool in small wholesale (as a consumable) is the most profitable: the price per piece is not more than 35 rubles.

Rubber spatula Bison

Rubber trowel STAYER

Instrument care

Inexpensive rubber spatulas can be considered a consumable item and not saved if the repairs are complete and the tool is no longer needed. For those who are professionally engaged in finishing work, it is a pity to part with a convenient device and they will need the following tips:

you can extend the service life of the tool by regularly cleaning its surface from building mixtures;
you should monitor the appearance of microcracks, their appearance will prevent the elasticity of the tool, since the solution will get into the gap;
the edges of the rubber sheet should be even, without chipping, cracks. If you want to keep the tool in working order, you can carefully trim the damaged areas.

Correct, careful application will significantly increase the life of the trowel.

How to make the right choice

When choosing a tool, you should take a closer look at the following details:

the rubber sheet must be sharpened, this is important for trowelling;
evaluate the stiffness of the trowel and correlate it with the characteristics of the materials (tiles, stone, composition of the grout mixture);
the convenience of the handle (if it is made of wood, then the application of drying oil is required to extend the service life).

A rubber spatula will help to work successfully and with pleasure, to achieve a beautiful, high-quality result.

After finishing work on laying tiles, mosaics, tiles, gaps remain. To improve the tightness of the surface, protect the base from moisture and give the finish to the finish, grout the tile joints. Work begins with the choice of material, tool, surface preparation.

For the finishing of walls and floors, tiles, ceramics, glass, porcelain stoneware, mosaics, clinker, smalt are used. The gaps need to be wiped off - this gives the coating an aesthetically pleasing appearance and allows you to create a monolithic sealed plane. Various mixtures are used for grouting tiles:

Cement. The component composition includes Portland cement, additives, fine grained sand, polymers. Mixes are easy to work with, suitable for the final processing of tiled surfaces in living rooms, bedrooms.

Epoxy two-component. Two components are used - resin and catalytic hardener. The finished paste has a short shelf life of up to 60 minutes, so the grout should be prepared immediately.

Polyurethane solutions. The mixtures include polyurethane resins in the form of aqueous dispersions. In terms of quality and properties, polyurethane sealants are similar to epoxy ones, they have a restriction on the thickness of the joint up to 6 mm.

For grouting tile joints, special materials are used if the tile is laid on a complex surface or is exposed to aggressive media. In this case, silicone sealants, heat-resistant solutions, compositions with furan resins are used.

Important: In addition to the main binder component, a high-quality mixture should contain impregnations, additives, minerals, latex or other fillers that improve the performance properties of the composition.

Tools for work

In a building environment, grouting ceramic or other tiles is called jointing. The task of the master is to evenly fill the gaps with the prepared solution. To grout ceramic tiles with your own hands, use the following tools:

The solution is stirred with a drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer.

2. To fill the gaps, you need a set of rubber spatulas; for epoxy compounds, take a tool from hard rubber.

3. Buckets or other containers in which it is convenient to stir the grout mixture, a tank with clean water.

4. Preparatory work and cleaning of tile joints are performed with a paint brush, knife, special solvent.

5. If a two-component epoxy-based compound is used, grout the tiles with a foam sponge.

Since the substances that make up the mixtures belong to the category of chemical components, you need to work with gloves, it is advisable to use a mask or respirator. A dry, lint-free rag should be at hand to remove excess mass.

Surface preparation

An important advantage of pastes on any base is good adhesion to any surface... This is true when the surface to be machined is completely free of dirt. Therefore, dust and debris must be removed before grouting the tiles. How to prepare for grouting:

Some mortars adhere better on slightly damp surfaces, but these conditions do not need to be observed when grouting ceramic tiles with two-component mixtures. To avoid scratching the cladding fragments, the glue can be removed with a wooden stick rather than a sharp blade. If you want to grind the seams on a porous surface, the craftsmen recommend pasting the joints on both sides with masking tape so that less grout gets on the tile - it leaves stains on the porous material.

Attention: It is possible to grind the joints no earlier than 8-24 hours after laying the tiles. The time indicator depends on the speed of drying of the tile adhesive.

Solution preparation

To simplify the work of grouting tiles with your own hands, you can purchase a ready-made mixture. The shelf life of such formulations is limited, and the cost is an order of magnitude higher. If a dry powder is used, then depending on the selected agent (on a cement, epoxy, polyurethane base), the components must be mixed or diluted with water in the proportion indicated on the package:

Dry grout is diluted with water or hardener in a clean container using a drill with a nozzle.

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2. The tool must be turned on at low speed and stirred until a homogeneous mass is formed.

It is important to strictly observe the proportions indicated by the manufacturer, otherwise the composition will lose its beneficial properties. Grouting is performed on a prepared surface, and you should simultaneously grind 1-2 squares of tiles and immediately clean the plane of excess mass. Liquid cement mix can be stored for 12-24 hours, and epoxies are produced within 45-60 minutes.

Application of mixtures

Before grouting ceramic tiles, allow the time required for the adhesive to completely harden. The speed of drying is influenced by the component composition of the glue, temperature and humidity of the environment. When using cement grouts, the joints are pre-moistened with water for better adhesion, and epoxy mortars are applied to dry joints. How to grout tile joints:

The gaps can be additionally treated with an antiseptic or antifungal primer.
When grouting tiles on the floor with your own hands, the mixture is applied with a wide spatula in a diagonal direction.
For wall planing, you can use a smaller tool to fill the gaps from top to bottom.
A small amount of the mixture is collected on a spatula and the joints are filled, pressing the solution with some effort.
If the spatula no longer fits into the joint, then the gap is completely filled with mortar, and there are no voids in it.
After grouting the joints on the floor, wall with an area of \u200b\u200b1-2 m2, they begin to form and join.
The plastic grout is trimmed with a piece of cable of the appropriate diameter, the excess mass is removed.

When working with epoxy compounds, the seams are formed with a sponge or trimmed with a finger. The tile is immediately cleaned, and when the product hardens - with a special solvent. If problem areas (tuberosity, pits) remain after joining, they are carefully sealed with fresh paste.

Note: The grout should be a fraction of a millimeter below the tile level. It is necessary to form beautiful joints with a damp clean sponge so as not to deform the joints with the remnants of grout dried on the foam rubber.

After grouting the tiles with your own hands in the bathroom or in the kitchen, the cladding material must be cleaned of the remnants of the mixture until the paste is completely dry. The cleaning method using a damp foam sponge or a clean cloth is suitable for this. Excess cement mass is removed 20-30 minutes after filling with mortar. When working with two-component compounds, the surface must be cleaned immediately. Recommendations of the masters:

Related article: How to wipe grout from tiles - ways, best means

3. You can prepare solutions with the addition of lemon juice, vinegar, toothpaste.

After cleaning, carefully examine the condition of the seams. If necessary, prepare a new portion of the mixture and smooth out the deformed joints. The final treatment is performed the next day - the ceramics are polished with a dry cloth and the seams are impregnated with a colorless silicone sealant. It prevents the formation of mold and mildew, additionally protects tile joints from moisture.

In the video: The best way to grout tile joints

Dry cleaning

In the process of grouting in the bathroom or in the kitchen, even with the most careful application of the paste, excess mass is formed. If a cementitious grout is used, the residues can be wiped off with a dry cloth after drying. Some craftsmen grind non-porous tiles with a float with a rubber attachment. Epoxy and polyurethane compounds are removed immediately before the mixture hardens.

With a dry method of cleaning, it is not allowed for particles of dried paste to fall on the seams. Work diagonally with a grater, constantly cleaning the tool from hardened grout pieces. The embossed tiles are cleaned with an old toothbrush. With a large amount of work and the use of epoxy mixtures, professional builders use electric mono-brushes with removable felt discs.

To process the joints of the flooring, cement or epoxy mixtures are used. The compositions are resistant to mechanical damage, do not undergo abrasion. To increase the service life, after grouting the floor tiles, the joints are coated with silicone sealants - not necessarily, but reliably. The technology of grouting joints on the floor between the tiles of porcelain stoneware practically does not differ from the processing of vertical surfaces with your own hands:

Prepare tools - a set of spatulas, a drill, a construction knife, a grater, foam sponges, a container for mixture and water, rags.
Remove the cross-clips, clean the floor, "sweep" with a paint brush.
Prepare the mortar: the cement mixture is added to water or latex, gradually stirring.
If using a drill, run the tool at 300 rpm so that there are no air bubbles in the paste.
Before applying the cement grout, the joints are moistened for better adhesion of the compound to the base of the floor.

The next process is to fill the gaps between the tiles. Grouting floor tiles at the seams is performed diagonally, and you need to start work from the far corner of the room, moving to the entrance to the room. You need to rub the mixture with pressure, completely filling the voids between the fragments of the flooring. After preparing the base, grout the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands as follows:

A square meter of tiles is moistened at the joints, but there should be no drops of water.

2. Fill the gaps with the grout prepared for the joints between the tiles, collecting the required amount of the mixture on the spatula.

3. Some masters rub the composition with a special float, others use a spatula - it depends on the tile (porous, embossed).

After processing one or two squares of the flooring area, the area is cleaned from grouting with warm water or special means. A construction bag (cone) can be used for filling with mortar. The required amount of paste is placed in it and squeezed into the gaps, trimming the mixture with a grater or spatula. After 15-20 minutes, you need to walk along the seams with a damp sponge to level the mixture and complete the jointing. While the composition dries up, they begin to process the next square. If epoxy is used, mix the paste in such an amount that a solution is produced within an hour. A seam is considered ideal if it is recessed relative to the tile joints and has a smooth structure.

Related article: How to remove old grout from tile joints - special and improvised means

Differences from grouting on walls

There is no significant difference between how to properly trowel tiles on the wall and on the floor. The technology remains unchanged, and the work is carried out in the same order - drying the tile glue, preparing the surface, preparing the solution, applying the mixture, cleaning the tiles from excess grouting mass. Minor differences in work:

Floor composition should be more resistant to mechanical damage.
On the wall, the grouting of the tiles is performed vertically from top to bottom, it is more convenient to work with a spatula.
The processing of the floor covering is carried out diagonally, you can use a trowel, float, construction bag.

After the mixture is completely dry, you can treat the joints with silicone sealant. The transparent substance reliably protects the grout from moisture absorption and imparts dirt-repellent properties to the composition. The sealant tube has a nozzle or brush for easy application.

Trowel width

A controversial issue, to which professional builders do not give an exact answer, is the width of the grouting joints. It is necessary to be guided by a simple rule - a wide gap between the tiles reduces the solidity and mechanical strength of the coating, but visually gives the surface strict geometric lines. Recommendations of the masters:

The length of the tile on one side is less than 10 cm - the seam is 1-3 mm.
The size of the material is more than 10 cm on the side - the joint will be 2-8 mm.
For clinker tiles, it is correct to grout joints 8-15 mm.
Leave 1-3 mm between small mosaic fragments.
Extrusion tiles with large edges (up to 30 cm) are rubbed with seams 4-10 mm thick.

A large gap (up to 12 mm) is left between products of irregular shape so as not to draw attention to the geometry of the products. The seams on the floor can be made wider than on the walls. To restore the old coating, the joints can be reprocessed. This applies to cement grouts, which are prone to cracking if the technology for preparing and applying the solution is violated. Old seams are treated with sandpaper, dust and grout residues are thoroughly cleaned out, and covered with a fresh mixture. In some cases, it is more convenient to restore tile joints by staining. To completely replace the sealant, a special cleaner is poured onto the old grout. When the grout has softened, it is removed with a joint opener. After clearing the gaps, you need to grout the ceramic tiles again, following the technology described above.

Finishing tiles using grouting mixtures requires accuracy and skill. Not all craftsmen will be able to get an impeccable quality grout the first time. It is important to do the work gradually, filling in small areas of walls or ceilings, so that there is an opportunity to correct mistakes. The result of painstaking work will exceed the expectations of the master - after grouting, the tiles acquire a beautiful visual effect.

Simple methods for grouting tiles (2 videos)

Types and methods of grouting tiles (20 photos)

It would seem that the first available rubber trowel for grouting, or even an ordinary rubber band, is suitable for jointing. But the convenience of the work and the final result will depend on the quality of the tool. If you often work with tile laying or just appreciate the convenience of work - this article is for you. In it I will tell you about the tool for grouting tiles, its choice and differences.

In the photo you can see several options for rubber spatulas

The first spatula is the most popular. It has a comfortable handle, but a small work surface, so work productivity is reduced. Imagine how long it will take to grout the mosaic with such a tool.
The second option has an uncomfortable handle, so it is more difficult for them to work, their hands will get dirty.
The third corner trowel will sometimes be useful when plastering, filling joints between decorative stones, in corners or in curly friezes.
The fourth Raimondi trapezoidal rubber trowel is superior to all previous options: it has a comfortable handle and a large working surface. In fact, this is an improved version of the second option.
Number 5 shows several trowel options from the Raimondi catalog. Many master tilers prefer to work with these graters. They have replaceable rubber or rubber attachments. Such a tool can easily last even a dozen years, you can see confirmation of this in the photo. But when working with it, you need to carefully squeeze out the rubber from the grout residues, otherwise it will lose its elasticity over time. So I have now switched to a thick rubber nozzle with a cone. The sharp edge of the grater makes it easy to crush the mixture even in the corners. The rubber is easy to clean and does not get clogged with the mixture.

A spatula with a rubber attachment served for about 10 years. Over time, the side became uneven, so I had to grind it with a grinder.

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Tools for grouting

Other grouting tools are also worth mentioning.

Tools for cleaning tiles from grout

Let's sum up

See the video for a master class on grouting floor tiles:

Basically, all the tools presented are needed for professional tilers. For a one-time work, it will be enough to buy only one trowel-trowel with a rubber nozzle.