Homemade circular saw attachments. Making a parallel stop and other useful circular attachments

These simple and very useful hand-held circular saw attachments are -

parallel stop,
device for perpendicular cross-cutting and trimming of boards,
guide rail for cutting sheet material,
setting blocks for precise positioning of any guide and adjustable guide for angled sawing

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular saw and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and become a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

Second part of the video.

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How to make a circular with your own hands from a hand-held circular saw

If a person lives in a private house or has a summer cottage and garden plot, then the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home craftsman is not only better, but sometimes necessary. The simplest homemade guide rail for a circular saw or Do it yourself. Unfortunately, the price of an industrially made standard of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its use at home, and for some Russians it is simply not in the pocket. At the same time, it is quite simple to make a "circular" with your own hands, using a sewing machine drive or an ordinary electric drill. Selection of a saw blade for a circular saw blade. The disc is needed for Selecting a disc 190mm for. But the quality of work and the nomenclature of operations performed almost in everything depend on the bed. circular saw.

Bed design

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8 ... 12 kilowatts, is quite affordable to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. Below are several ways to make a table for a circular hand saw. For the drive, you can use an electric drill "BOSCH GSB 19-2" (power 0.85 kilowatts) or "DWT SBM-1050" (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached with a special bracket to under the plate. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you need to purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Diy circular saw table. Guide for hand-held circular saw do it yourself. Of course, a wooden frame is not suitable for professional work, but in order to dissolve the boards, quickly saw through the bars, such a homemade construction is quite enough.

In general, the bed will consist of a base and a table top (work table). Of course, with manual self-production circular saw we must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the working table will primarily be determined by the design of the cutting disc attachment. Guide rail for hand-held circular saw do it yourself. Self-made circular devices use either a circular disk fixed directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two support shaft driven by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Countertop manufacturing

Read the same

At the first stage of making a bed with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing plywood sheet is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, the marking is carried out from the edges of the sheet. Diy circular devices. A hacksaw with a fine tooth or a jigsaw is used as a tool.

A few simple tools for hand circular saw... Part 1

These are simple and very useful fixtures for manual disk saws - parallel emphasis, adaptation.

Miter box or trimmer for manual circular saw do it yourself

Group VK It is easy to manufacture adaptation, for sawing at different angles, c.

On the underside of the sawn-off piece, a slot for the disc is marked. Cutting can be done with a finger mill, fixing it with your own hands in an electric drill chuck. Circular table from a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. Diy circular saw table. In order to maintain the straightness of the cutting edges, a simple home-made copier from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps.
Further work depends on the disc mounting mechanism circular saws. It is most simple to manually install it on two bearing supports, and the drive is carried out through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To give additional rigidity to the tabletop along its edges, it is advisable to fix stiffening ribs, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. Fastening of the stiffeners to the table is carried out using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the bar to the countertop along the entire plane of the joint.
The distance from the edge of the countertop to the bar should be 2.0 ... 4.0 centimeters.

Read the same

After that, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the bed using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the table top and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the working table should be coated with a wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with a home-made device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover over the cutting edge of the disc.

Base design

For safe operation of a homemade circular saws the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and solid base. To make it by hand, the fantasy of the master is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden underframe, but it is better to weld it from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the dimensions of the countertop.

Some of the nuances of manufacturing

The main parameter that determines the design of a self-made "circular" is the thickness of the boards being sawn. A circular saw is a circular hand saw for sawing boards like. For DIY household work, it is usually not required to cut wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the cutting depth, you can use and / or make a special lifting mechanism for the disc, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, you should take into account the speed of its shaft. DIY circular saw repair: how. Thus, the idea is born to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. Using a belt drive, you can make a change in the number of revolutions yourself. If it is supposed to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with a variable frequency of rotation of the chuck, then use such a circular saw made do it yourselfwill be a pleasure.

When you have your own home or summer cottage, a static circular saw will be an excellent assistant for you. With its help, you can quickly and efficiently carry out complex work on cutting various products. Such a tool can be purchased if the budget allows. Or you can create it yourself. It is also important to have the necessary tools for it.

A circular saw. Concept

A circular saw is a special one that allows you to quickly and evenly saw wood products, plywood, laminate and various boards.

There are household and professional models. The former can function with pauses. Their engine needs 15-20 minutes breaks. They cannot withstand significant loads.

The latter have more powerful engines. They can work intensively for a very long time. Therefore, they are usually used in production.

For use in a personal household, household modifications are used. And keeping professional versions is not profitable.

The level of work and their types are determined by the bed of this tool.

About the elements of the bed

The attachments are different. The base is the bed. If the saw power is insignificant (no more than 1.2 kW), it is easy to build such a bed yourself. Its length is affected by the length of the material being cut.

An electric drill "Bosch" is suitable for the drive, its parameter is 0.85 kW. It is mounted under the slab with a special bracket.

Precision and evenness of the cut is best when the workpiece rests entirely on the table surface. And if the table is too large, it will fill the entire working area. The average is needed here. The height is adjusted according to your height to make it easier to work.

Materials and tools

For the table, buy bakelite plywood with a minimum density of 5 cm.

In addition to it, you will need:

Board 5 x 10 cm.
Bars 5 x 5 cm.
Clamps.
A set of self-tapping screws.
Glue and varnishes.
Manual circular.
Electric jigsaw.
Milling cutter of the manual type.
Drill.

Making a table

When you need to assemble fixtures, the first step is to create a bed. It consists of a base and a table top.

The design of the second element is influenced by the fastening structure of the working disk.

The process of creating a key attachment for a circular saw goes through several stages. They are outlined below:

Creating legs

The assembly of a complete circular saw attachment is not limited to these steps.

For the legs, you need a board 5 x 10 cm.Their height is 1-1.2 m.

The board is cut along the longitudinal vector. In this case, a slight angle is observed on one side.

The legs are fitted to the table top. During installation, they should be slightly open.

They are attached outside the stiffeners. The fastening method is bolted. To increase their stability, you will need screeds. They need a block of 5 x 5 cm.

Fits into the previously created groove from the lower zone of the worktop. The sole is fixed with bolts. The disc is placed in the slot.

The table is covered with 3-4 layers of varnish. This is a measure against moisture.

Switching on and off

The assembly of the main attachment for the circular saw is almost complete. It remains to adjust the launch and shutdown of the tool. The simplest solution here is as follows - the start key is pulled together with a wire, and the saw is turned off with a power cord.

A more complex method is to bypass this key. And the control buttons are displayed on the outer plane of the front stiffener.

The miter saw attachment is especially useful when quality cross cuts are needed.

Such a device can be made independently using the proposed technology:

The base is being assembled. Two parallel strips of 2.5 x 5 cm are glued to the upper area of \u200b\u200bplywood with dimensions 1.8 x 30 x 122 cm. They are attracted by screws.
Angles are attached to them (their material is aluminum). Fastening method - countersunk head screws. The angle of the fastener is 90 degrees. The fastening takes place in parallel at a distance identical to the width of the saw base.
The tool is adjusted to cut the planks to a shallow depth at the base.
The device is fixed with clamps. A workpiece is placed under the corners. The cut is made.

If the saw does not go well, this area can be smeared with paraffin, but with a thin layer.

Long cuts question

Creating a hand-held circular saw attachment that will help make long cuts is relevant for many DIYers. It simplifies work remarkably.

It's easy to do. Fiberboard is taken. A sample is cut from this material. It is identical to the distance from the outside of the tool base to the inside of the outside of the disc.

When cutting, rely on the length of the tool base.

The edge of the sample is aligned with the designation of the cut on the workpiece. A straight piece is applied to the second side. This is a guide. It is fixed with a clamp.

On the second marking, this operation is duplicated, but on the opposite side of the blank.

To create a template, it is optimal to use a router or jigsaw.

If chips are chipped from the disc in the work, you cannot do without the following device for a hand-held circular saw, assembled with your own hands.

Technology:

An element of hardboard is cut out. Its density is 6 mm. When cutting, you need to focus on the width of the tool base.
The disc is retracted. The protective cover rises. The result of item 1 is attached to the base with double-sided tape. After that the saw starts. The disc fits smoothly into the hardboard. It turns out zero clearance in work.

Sawing should be done with negligible impact on the created base.

Tenoning device

The tenon attachment for the circular saw increases the efficiency and precision of the tenon and groove production. They are involved in the assembly of various joinery products: furniture, doors, frames, frames, etc.

Thanks to this device:

The workpieces are positioned without distortion.
The operations are repeated meticulously.
The final result is of high quality.

Such a device can be purchased or made by your own efforts. Experts recommend the first option. This is a complete guarantee of achieving excellent results.

The following models are often bought: Felisatti FTJ and Festool VS 600 GE.

This is a reliable and proven technique.

Sharpening question

The circular saw should be sharpened when these symptoms appear:

It becomes harder to work with her.
It leaves black marks on the material.
A nasty smell and smoke is generated.

Ideally, it should be sharpened on a professional machine. If not, you will need a circular saw sharpener.

Required set for work:

Vice.
File with a flat functional side.
Bar.

Work with gloves.

Sharpening stages:

Hard disk fixation. It is removed from the saw and fastened in a vice. In this case, wooden dies are used. You can leave it in the saw, but stick a block between its teeth. The bar rests against some surface.
The initial tooth is marked.
The back of the tooth is processed with a file. They need to swipe it several times. The effort is small. Each tooth is sharpened in turn. At the same time, the movements are uniform, the number of filings is the same.
The front parts of the teeth are processed. The principle is the same.

The points of the teeth should be perpendicular to the surface of the disc.

All teeth are then inspected for defects. The edges should not shine. If so, they are smoothly sharpened with a file.

After that, the disk is verified in action. It fits into the saw. It turns on. A test block is used. If the saw is light, even and quiet, then the sharpening is of high quality.

Otherwise, check the height of the teeth. To align them, you need to bring the marker to the working edge. Then the disc must go through the entire revolution in the other direction from the rotation. A mark remains on all teeth. You can align their height along it. The tallest teeth are filed neatly.

Conclusion

The circular saw is a very useful tool on the farm. But it becomes even more effective if it is provided with the necessary devices.

The hand-held circular electric saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting sawn timber.

The kit usually comes with accessories to help the master in the work.

But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. Yes, and work experience will sooner or later lead to the emergence of completely self-made adaptations (as they are called), which, with all their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.

Parallel stop

The regular rip fence is a good example of how a small addition can be of great benefit. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a rip fence to cut to desired widths. This is a really useful tool.

The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to a value that allows it to make cuts less than 20–25 mm wide. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the saw guard. But it is enough to attach a wooden block with self-tapping screws to the parallel bar of the standard stop - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts less than 15 mm, the block does not allow the protective cover to cover the saw blade.

Stop for cross and corner cuts

A cross-cut device is also often used. It cuts the boards quickly and accurately at a 90 ° angle. Such an emphasis is also used for trimming boards. Its basis is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. On it with glue or self-tapping screws, fix a guide bar or rail with a height of at least 20 mm. On the underside of the base, a stop is attached, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar.

The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of a manual circular, the device is always made individually. It is usually attached to the material to be processed with clamps.

Advanced craftsmen make their fasteners from wooden washers, one of which is in the shape of an eccentric. The clamp is carried out by a wing nut on the screw. Such a clamping device allows you to very quickly fix the fence on lumber of different widths.

If you install the same block on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first, and then cut off a part of the base at 45 ° with a saw, you get an angular universal stop for cuts at both 45 ° and 90 °. A more versatile design of the corner stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And the observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor fixed on top. It should be noted that making a protractor for a circular with your own hands is a more difficult task.

Saddle stop

If you have to cut a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then it is worth spending time making a simple saddle stop. Its application will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle bumper is especially effective when cutting thick beams, which require two cuts on the disc from different sides.

The support-saddle has a U-shape. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.

The side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls should be greater than the width of the bar to provide support for the circular platform until the saw blade comes into contact with the bar.

The saddle is put on the bar at a distance from the cut marking corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and through the sidewalls it is pressed against the bar with clamps. Using the sidewall as a stop for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the bar is such that one cut is not enough, then turn it over and make another cut. The position of the stop does not change in any way.

Guide rail

For cuts of large and long sheet lumber on the table, a long, hand-made circular saw guide rail will be useful.

The basis in this case is (8–10 mm) a plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet being cut. The bus itself can be wooden (a bar 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped section. The bus is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it, there should be a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for attaching to the sheet with clamps. On the other hand, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After that, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disc. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is fixed and the sheet is cut.

Edge stop

This is already a rather complex device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work so as not to overshoot in size. Actually, such an emphasis is included in the circular saw kit, but its small length does not always ensure an even cut. The large size and the desired strength require the base of the stop to be made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. You can also make a stop bar from it.

Stopper manufacturing steps:

longitudinal grooves are made at the base for dowels;
hardwood dowels are attached to the stop bar;
another through groove is made between the longitudinal grooves to secure the stop bar during operation;
a hole is cut at the base for the circular saw blade;
on the sides of the base, limit strips are placed for installing the circular and clamps are provided for its reliable fastening.

When placing the stop on the material to be processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the required distance and is fixed through the through-slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to suffer every time with a ruler, you can fix it (or a piece of tape measure) on the basis of a stop along the guide grooves.

There are such small devices that it is shameful to consider even a tool. At the same time, they are excellent for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.

Setting bars

The simplest part that facilitates the installation of any stop and guide along the marking is a small section bar. It contains cuts, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two of these bars will help to set any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. All that remains is to fix the guide.

Pull-out protection

Any bar that corresponds in width to the thickness of the workpiece being cut can become a protection. If it is fixed at the point where the saw blade exits from the material being processed, then it will act as a stop and will serve as a protection against tearing and chipping.

These devices are not limited to a set of useful homemade products that make it easier to work with a hand-held circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others take time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for circulars with their own hands. There would be a desire.

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and widespread operation is precisely longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most difficult element - the parallel emphasis.

So, a parallel stop is a movable part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along this part that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop due to the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the curve of the saws may jam.

In addition, the parallel stop of the circular saw must be a rather rigid structure, since the master applies forces, pressing the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and back)	Advantages: · Quite rigid design; · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require massiveness of the guide itself Disadvantage: · For fastening, the foreman needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and, with frequent changeovers, is a significant disadvantage.
One point mount (front)	Advantages: · Less rigid construction than when fastening the stop at two points; · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Disadvantage: · The design of the stop must be massive to provide the required structural rigidity.
Fastening in the slot of the circular table	Advantages: · Fast changeover. Disadvantage: · The complexity of the design, · The weakening of the design of the circular table, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or can be used.
Screwdriver.
Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process of work, you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel bar with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The clamping force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely hold the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

Base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Circular production

Preparation of blanks

There are a couple of things to note:

planar longitudinal elements are made of pine, not solid pine like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end under the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can also just fill it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a home-made movable carriage from (or, alternatively, you can whip up a false table), which is not a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the cap.

As a result, we get a flat cylindrical workpiece, which needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

Making a handle is a cylinder 22 mm in diameter and 120-200 mm long. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We are starting to manufacture the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

Base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping strips - the upper and lower ones - have one end, not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5 º). We have already observed these angles when cutting blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping strip. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the movement and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding, in addition, you need to check the tightness of the sloped edges; there should be no gaps and cracks.

With a snug fit, the strength of the joint (fixing the guide) will be maximized.

Assembling the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

Base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already cut them to size, it remains only to refine the edges. This is done with an edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even stick it with an iron!) And understandable.

Longitudinal base

We also fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to keep the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the 90º angle, as the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Eccentric installation

Installing the guide

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the cross-stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

The video on which this material was made.