Place the wooden floor on a concrete screed. How to make a screed on wooden joists on the floor

Building a house begins with a foundation, and major repairs are impossible without reliable flooring. This plane in any room has the greatest load, therefore, the reliability of the floor and its insulation depend on the quality of the installation of wooden logs. Although it takes half the budget to renovate it, timber flooring on logs will provide comfort, a pleasant feel from the texture of the wood and a mechanically resistant base that is designed to withstand heavy loads.

What are lags, their purpose

Logs are beams used as a base for wood flooring or other covering. Lags are laid parallel to the walls, and wooden boards, plywood or laminated chipboard are mounted transversely on them.

Wooden floors on logs - a reliable structure that is used in construction:

new wooden houses;
brick buildings;
buildings made of concrete slabs and other materials.

Usually, a wooden beam is used for logs, since this is a generally available material. It is suitable for styling:

on the screed;
soil base;
old wood floors and other coatings.

Floors on logs are practically irreplaceable in cases where there is no other way to competently equip the flooring on a base unprepared for finishing. The main functional advantages of lag:

leveling the surface;
providing sufficient sound insulation;
increased thermal insulation of floors;
the ability to hide communications;
load distribution on the bottom layer;
ensuring air circulation under the floor;
creation of a suitable lathing for flooring boards;
the ability to replace several structural elements if damaged without replacing the entire floor;
ensuring the strength of the floor when installing logs in a wooden house.

Wooden boards cannot be laid on an earthen base without laying logs in a wooden house, no matter how dry and well prepared this base may be. Without timber grates, wooden floors will quickly deteriorate. Everyone knows that the presence of high-quality wooden floors is both a special microclimate in the house and a beneficial effect on the health of wood.

The modern building materials market offers ready-made logs or beams and beams used for these purposes. A long wooden bar of standard sizes is suitable - 40x60 mm or 50x50 mm. It is a pleasure to lay floors with modern materials, using power tools and the latest technology. Therefore, making logs and laying the floors yourself is more profitable with your own hands, without paying for the work of an entire construction team.

Tip: The board for laying the floor should be about half as thin as wooden logs, then the load will be less.

Adjustable lag designs: advantages of using

Many are familiar from childhood - in order to level the surface, it is required to put a wedge or a piece of a flat board. But this is not so easy when it comes to floor surfaces with large level differences from wall to wall. Large differences occur not only with uneven soil subsidence in old houses, but also when logs are laid in a wooden house during its construction. In this case, make adjustable lags.

This design saves time for leveling the floor and simplifies its installation, and inside there is a space for thermal insulation and additional insulation, there is also room for laying communications. Adjustable structures are not used only with low ceilings, since such floors will take away about 7-12 cm from the height of the walls.

What is the best way to make lags?

Logs under a wooden floor can be made from different types of wood, and when there is a choice, it is better to use an inexpensive, but resistant to destruction and wetting timber, for example, from fir and other conifers. It is better to make floors from decorative types of wood, and for rooms with a low load, for example, in a nursery or a bedroom, soft wood with a beautiful texture pattern is suitable - cherry, alder, walnut, aspen. It makes no sense to pay for expensive wood with high decorative properties for painting, if only there are no defects and knotty.

Heavy-duty floors are made from Siberian larch, oak and ash, since they do not leave dents from heels and furniture legs. Supermarkets also offer ready-made tongue-and-groove boards, which have milled tenons and grooves on the edges for quick, seamless installation. Logs under the floors are usually lined with inexpensive wood - spruce, pine. Dry wood of 2-3 grades is quite enough.

Tip: If you take wood for logs in a building supermarket, consultants will tell you the size of the logs for a wooden floor, help you choose a timber of a suitable species and the desired section.

The timber for the logs and the board for laying the floor must be treated with a water-soluble, anti-mildew and mildew compound, such as MHHC, ammonium fluorosilicate, HHP.

What is the required distance between the lags?

The lag step (the interval between the timber) directly depends on the thickness of the board or flooring. When using thick, sturdy boards, the logs are not placed so tightly. And on a light coating, for example, under plywood, logs are often laid.

The ratio of the thickness of the board and the distance between the lags:

by 20 mm - 30 cm;
by 24 mm - 40 cm;
by 30 mm - 50 cm;
35 mm - 60 cm;
40 mm - 70 cm;
45 mm - 80 cm;
50 mm - 90-100 cm.

Tip: If by the end of the installation the lag has lost the interval, it does not matter, take a little step between the last lags, which will strengthen the structure. If the floorboard is fairly thin, it is best to reduce the spacing when laying wood logs against the walls where the furniture should be.

Basic requirements for the correct arrangement of a wooden floor on logs

When installing a log for a floor in a wooden house with your own hands, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

make the lags as stable as possible;
the timber of the lags should be placed horizontally, with the exception of the slope provided for by the architectural project;
lag wood should be as dry as possible;
it is desirable to provide microcirculation of the space under the floor.

Attention: If the logs are laid on an unstable base, such as under a wooden floor on the first floor of the house, it is recommended to build small 250x250 brick columns. They are made of red ceramic bricks connected with cement mortar. This subfloor responds best to the natural moisture inside the floor.

Tip: It is important to provide a floor built on logs with sufficient sound insulation using a substrate or roofing material.

Laying the adjustable sub floor

Directly on a dry concrete screed or concrete slabs, wooden logs are being installed. They are laid strictly horizontally, observing an equal interval - about 50-60 cm, checking with a level. Where it is necessary for leveling, trims of wood building materials and wedges from boards are additionally laid under the logs:

plywood scraps;
other wood building materials.

Assembling the sub-floor structure is easy:

to screw in the bolts-stands in the logs we make holes - for every 2m of the length of the bar, 5-6 holes are enough;
lag laying is carried out at equal intervals;
we drill the holes in advance, but so that the drill goes through the holes of the stud bolts;
we observe the horizontal level and align;
we hammer in the dowel stop by 3.5 cm;
when the stud bolts have protruding parts, we cut them off;
after the wooden logs are leveled, we lay wooden boards or other topcoat on this base.

We mount the lags to the concrete base with anchor bolts or dowels of sufficient length to punch through the height of the bar by a few centimeters. Adjustment will be provided by screws for fastening wooden logs, as well as plastic washers and stands on which they rest.

This installation technology has a lot of advantages - leveling the floor, laying communications, installing the "warm floor" system, laying the electrical wiring cable, Internet, telephone, gas and water pipes, which it is desirable to hide under the floor.

Attention: All the listed communications should not touch or intertwine with each other! It is important to provide access to communication outputs.

How to insulate the floor along the logs?

Before putting logs in a wooden house, it is important to think in advance about how the floors will be insulated from the inside. The properties of wood, thanks to environmental friendliness, naturalness and warmth, are widely used not only for aesthetic purposes, but also for house insulation. However, for all its attractiveness, in the cold season, the feet feel the coldness of the coating, if the floor is not insulated.

Wooden floors are one of the oldest ways to arrange the lower surface of a home. Additional warmth was provided by dense woolen carpets over the boards. Today, various insulation materials are widely used from the inside, including the Nexans warm cable heating system.

Today it is recommended to insulate the wooden floor on logs with expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, isover, basalt wool and other modern materials, including spraying or roll materials. In free gaps, slots or unfilled cells, they are filled with fragments and waste insulation, but a small air gap is left on top.

Tip: If the device of wooden logs was required to level the old wooden floor, then additional insulation is not necessary. The coldest base for a wooden floor is the soil under the first floor or a concrete screed, on which expanded clay is often poured. The floors on the upper floors do not need to be insulated.

Laying logs on a concrete base

Logs are laid on a concrete base in two ways.

1. For leveling, make a cement screed in order to lay out logs on it. This is a reliable method, and the lathing of their timber lies flat, the floors are not deformed, the joists on the screed are quickly mounted, providing a solid foundation around the entire perimeter of the room.

2. Sometimes a special lining is made between concrete and logs of different thicknesses in order to level them without adjustment. This is not the best method, although it is often used. However, under load on the floor, these linings will gradually crumble or deform, and the floors will creak and sag.

Before laying logs on concrete, it is important to take several important steps:

complete the cement floor screed or use a self-leveling mixture;
carry out work on waterproofing the base, since the soil under the first floor and concrete conducts moisture well - use a polyethylene backing or film;
provide sound insulation with special gaskets that can dampen all vibration and shock noises, as well as everyday sounds in the interior space - use cork substrates or cheaper ones based on polyethylene foam.

If the logs are made on the ground (on the 1st floor without a basement), then it is better to lay the insulation directly on the rough floor.

After the completion of these works, the laying of the lag is completed, the timber is joined if it is shorter than the distance between the walls. It is advisable to use a bar with a length of at least 2 m and dock it with its ends. Make sure that the joining seams do not go along the same line - they must be alternated.

Lags and laying the floor on them are best done from the corner of the room opposite the front door - for the convenience of working in an unoccupied space. We begin to lay the first row 10 mm from the wall, that is, with a small gap, attaching to the logs with self-tapping screws. This gap is important for the expansion of the wood, which responds to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. A plinth will be laid on top of the floor along the edge, which will hide this gap. The structure of the log floor is very durable and reliable, and it is easy to repair such a structure fragmentarily.

We lay the boards on logs

The board needs to be measured and cut so that the butt joints go right in the middle of the beam. Sheet materials are fastened with self-tapping screws, so that they do not go beyond the floor surface. The indentations from the caps after installing the board are sealed with putty, which will not be visible after painting the floor.

Tip: It is advisable to alternate the board with a different arrangement of growth rings - up or down, butting tightly to each other, after which they are thoroughly fixed on each lag. In the last rows, we make the fastening along the very edge so that the baseboard hides the caps.

For finishing flooring they often use:

decorative plywood;
sheet pile board;
laminated chipboard;
Fiberboard under linoleum, carpet or expensive parquet.

Wooden floors for the bathhouse have been used since ancient times. And today, despite the presence of a large number of new technologies, this option is rightfully considered optimal. We will consider several solutions for the arrangement of floors, talk about the technology of their construction, the advantages and "problem" sides.

Lags on the ground
Making wooden floors

Under the floor lags, only soil
Logs for the floor in a log house

It means that there is nothing under the floor except the soil. The logs themselves, of course, never lay on the ground or various beddings; they need to be installed on concrete or brick posts.

Lags on brick posts
Columns from blocks for logs

The distance between the posts is calculated taking into account the thickness of the logs, floorboards and the maximum floor load. During the construction of baths, in most cases, no one makes such exact calculations, and they are not needed. The average universal values \u200b\u200bare selected, in our case we choose the thickness of the floorboards 30 mm and the logs 50 × 100 mm.

In this version, the distance between the lags should be within 1.5 meters, the distance between the posts under each lag should be within 1.6 ÷ 1.8 meters. A few centimeters in one direction or another do not make the weather, move the columns taking into account the specific dimensions of the room.

The main thing is that the columns should be evenly spaced over the entire area.

Lag step depending on the thickness of the floorboards
Lag dimensions at a step of 70 centimeters

How are floors with logs on the ground made?

Step 1. Take measurements of the room, determine the floor level. Construction documentation has its own characteristics. One of them - the zero mark does not touch the ground, as some think, but the floor level. Everything above the floor is indicated with a "+" sign in the drawings, everything below the floor is indicated with a "-" sign. This means that the level of the location of the lag should be indicated by -30 mm (below the thickness of the board). Another note on the documentation. Accuracy in millimeters is indicated in mechanical engineering, in construction, dimensions in most cases are indicated in centimeters. We will gradually move on to standard designations for the dimensions of construction objects, for now we use the usual, but not entirely correct designations.

Support posts for logs on the ground - diagram
Construction of wooden floors by columns

Step 2. Taking into account the distances, pre-calculate the location of the posts and their number. The depth of the posts is approximately 20-25 centimeters.

Mark up the posts. Beat off the zero mark (level of the upper surface of the floorboards) on the opposite walls of the room using a laser or hydro level. He subtract it 30 millimeters (thickness of the boards) and 100 mm (thickness of the log). The level of the upper surface of the post is -13 centimeters. Make another mark on the walls of the bath at this height.

Dig small square holes of this size along the rope at the required distances; it is enough to make the depth of the holes in one bayonet of the shovel. Level the bottom, remove the crumbling earth.

It is highly advisable to fill in a sand cushion 10 ÷ 15 centimeters thick to compensate for the swelling of the soil during freezing / thawing. Pour a layer of sand at the bottom of each hole and tamp it. There is a desire to fill holes - make a concrete solution in proportions of 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and 3 parts of rubble. Make sure the surface is level and level when pouring.

Step 3. Collect all materials. For posts, there are several options: pour concrete in the ground or use concrete blocks. Above the ground, you can use red bricks or blocks; between the concrete base and the brick, it is imperative to make waterproofing with roofing felt. It is better to take a brick, its small size makes it easier to work on bringing the columns to one level of the horizon. Blocks have to be cut, it takes a long time, the cut is uneven.

Brick support post - appearance

Step 4. Making columns. We make the dimensions of the posts for a brick, the standard length of bricks is 25 centimeters, we take two bricks. This means that the side of the square of the post will be 25 centimeters.

Do you have multiple concrete blocks in stock? Great, the work will go faster and easier, lay out columns from them.

The concrete is frozen - you can lay bricks. The thickness of a standard brick is only 6.5 centimeters, such dimensions will allow, by changing the thickness of the mortar, to accurately set the surface of the posts to the required height. You need to pull on new ropes, pull them according to the height marks of the posts. Check the position of the bricks with a level, the posts should be in an upright position. Using a cement-sand mortar, precisely match the surfaces of all posts along the string.

Step 5. Lags are laid on roofing material, it is better to lay two layers of waterproofing.

The length of the lag should be 3 ÷ 4 centimeters shorter than the length of the room, this is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the tree. The logs must be fixed to the walls in a sliding way in order to prevent them from tipping over to the side, but allow them to move a little in the longitudinal direction. It is better to do this with the help of factory standard metal connections, such are used during the arrangement of a floating rafter system. If it is not possible to purchase such connections - no problem, make them yourself. To do this, on one side of the metal corner, the holes must be made oblong. This side will be attached with self-tapping screws to the logs, do not tighten the self-tapping screws with great effort, the log should be able to slide. The second side of the metal corner is fixed to the bath wall.

First, you need to fix two opposite logs, pull the ropes between them and put all the rest on it. If there are problems with the level, use different pads. A height spread of up to two millimeters can be tolerated; these irregularities are eliminated during the finishing of the flooring.

Step 6. Planking. Check the quality of the boards, it is better not to use materials with visible signs of defects. If the boards, as a result of a violation of the production technology, have a curved side surface, you need to purchase ready-made or make your own special devices for tightening them.

For these purposes, ordinary metal staples and wooden wedges can be used. Prepare several wedges at once with different slope angles. Metal staples are driven into the logs, an unnecessary board is placed between them, and wedges are driven in between the floorboard and it. The driving force should ensure leveling of the surfaces. The boards are fixed to the logs in such a clamped position, after driving in all the nails, the wedges are removed and a new floorboard is inserted.

Bowrench - floor plank pulling tool

Do not forget to leave a gap of 1 ÷ 2 centimeters near the wall to compensate for linear expansion, the gap is then closed with a plinth. For flooring, you can use both ordinary and grooved boards. If all operations were carried out correctly and the boards have no deviations in thickness, the floor is ready for finishing painting or varnishing. If there is a noticeable difference in the height of individual boards, then they will have to be leveled with a special hand-held planer.

To improve the quality of the coating, the floor surface can be sanded.

Step 7. Nail the skirting boards around the perimeter of the room - the floor is ready to use.

Fastening wooden skirting boards

There are two more nuances in the arrangement of floors in the steam room. The technology of flooring boards changes slightly, taking into account how the water will drain. If by gravity in the cracks, do not pull the boards tightly, leave a gap of several millimeters between them.

If water goes into the drainage system, you need to make a hole. The best option is to have an electric jigsaw. Drill a "starting" hole in the board with a drill, insert a jigsaw blade into it and carefully cut a hole of the required size. No jigsaw - use a chisel and chisel. The work gets a little more complicated, but that's okay. Small irregularities of the holes made in this way will be covered with a decorative drain grate.

Lags on top of the concrete screed

A more complex and expensive option for arranging floors. The logs are laid on a flat concrete screed, the floors can withstand significant loads.

Step 1. Mark the floor level, mark the wall. You need to mark both the position of the log and the position of each layer of the cement base.

Step 2. Level the surface of the soil, remove the top fertile layer. A base of sand or gravel should be poured onto the ground, the base should be tamped with special vibration mechanisms or manually.

Example of compaction of a sand pad

Step 3. Prepare a concrete solution. During the manufacture of concrete, we recommend giving two parts of sand and three parts of crushed stone for one part of cement. This concrete recipe can be considered universal, it is suitable for the manufacture of most architectural structures of buildings using concrete.

Step 4. Fill the concrete base. You need to fill in the lighthouses.

For beacons, you can use purchased metal or ordinary wooden slats. The slats do not need to be pulled out of the solution, they do not affect the final performance. Check the plane of the concrete with a level. If there are significant deviations, make a screed with a cement-sand mortar on top. Do the screed according to all the rules, do not allow irregularities and deviations horizontally.

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Video - Installing beacons under the screed

Video - Lighthouse screed

Step 5. Place waterproofing between the concrete base and timber joists.

If you do not plan to insulate the floor, then as a lag, you can take bars of 30 × 50 mm and put them flat. The large area of \u200b\u200bthe lag stop completely excludes their deflections, and the thickness is sufficient for firmly fixing the boards. Dina lag must take into account linear expansion due to changes in the relative humidity of wooden structures.

Video - How to put logs on a concrete floor

Step 6. Boards are laid in the same way as we described above using the example of their laying on logs along the ground.

In cases of construction of baths, this method of flooring is rarely used. Such floors can only be made in a recreation room, for a steam room or shower method is not suitable. The plywood is covered with laminate or soft flooring. The thickness of the plywood is determined by the total loads, but in any case, it must be more than one centimeter. Depending on the thickness of the plywood, the lag step is adjusted. Experienced builders advise lags to mount them at a distance of no more than 50 centimeters.

Laying plywood on logs

Plywood must be moisture resistant, ordinary cheap varieties are unsuitable.

Important. When marking the placement of the lag, it is tedious to take into account the dimensions of the plywood sheets.

The fact is that under all joints there must be lags. It is better to pre-draw on paper a diagram of the arrangement of plywood sheets; during calculations, both longitudinal and transverse joints should be taken into account. You can fix plywood to the logs with carnations or self-tapping screws.

And, in addition, it has good heat-shielding characteristics, which makes it possible not to use additional insulation for floors. Do not forget to glue the joints of the technical cork sheets with adhesive tape. Otherwise, during the production of work, they will be displaced, which complicates the installation of the laminate and makes the work more "nervous".

Prices for plywood sheets

plywood sheets

Ways of insulating floors on logs in a bath

Insulation of the floor on the logs - scheme

For warming pilaf, you can use two types of insulation. None of these are ideal. Why?

Let's start with mineral wool.

According to many performance indicators, it has high characteristics: it keeps heat well, it is easy to work with it, the heat-insulating layer has no cracks. But cotton also has a drawback - the material quickly absorbs moisture and gives it away for a very long time. Prolonged exposure of wooden elements in direct contact with damp cotton wool significantly accelerates the appearance of rot and fungi. Wooden structures need to be impregnated with antiseptics, use mechanical methods of steam and hydro protection. Such construction activities are quite expensive.

The second insulation is foam plates.

This material does not absorb moisture. The fact that it has comments on environmental friendliness is not critical for the premises in the bath, no one is going to live in them. Foam plastic is not "ruined" by environmental friendliness and physical indicators, it is "ruined" by rodents.

None of the manufacturers warns that mice like this material for unknown reasons, they gnaw it with great pleasure and with great speed. No one has yet managed to completely get rid of rodents at their summer cottage. We hope that this information will help you make the best decision when choosing a floor insulation material.

How to insulate floors on logs with mineral wool

You can take both rolled and pressed material. The only remark is that if you take pressed mineral wool, then the dimensions of the sheets should be taken into account when placing the log.

Nail thin slats or bars to the side planes of the lag, the rough floor will lie on them. For its manufacture, you can take unedged boards, pieces of lumber, the remains of plywood or OSB sheets. Mineral wool must be reliably protected from moisture penetration from below, the ground under the bath will always have high humidity values.

For vapor protection, you can take any of the existing materials, all of them have excellent performance characteristics.

Place the mineral wool on the sub-floor carefully, do not leave gaps or gaps. The thickness of the mineral wool cannot be greater than the height of the log.

The upper surface of the insulation must be covered with waterproofing and only after that start dealing with the finishing flooring.

One of the options for floor insulation. The film is fastened with staples over basalt mineral wool

If there is an opportunity to replace the mineral wool with glass wool - immediately use this chance. Glass wool is much cheaper than the "branded" material, and in its physical and operational properties it is in no way inferior to it.

Glass wool - insulating material

One of the disadvantages of glass wool is considered to be its "prickly". This is not a problem, work in working canvas gloves and nothing will "bite" you. For your information - fashionable mineral wool is made from rock basalt, and this is the same glass, only with different impurities. Mineral wool does not "bite" only because the diameter of the glass fibers is much smaller, they break very easily and cannot damage the skin. But there is much more fine glass dust from it, and this is harmful to the lungs.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

In this version, the work is slightly simplified and cheaper. The subfloor is made in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation. But steam and water protection can be omitted, this can significantly reduce the cost of work. The problem with rodents will have to be solved independently. Some suggest laying a galvanized metal mesh with small cells on the subfloor, while others will gorge themselves that the rodents will not spoil all the foam. How to proceed - you will have to decide for yourself.

Styrofoam is perfectly cut with a special carpenter's knife. Make the sheets a few millimeters larger when trimming. The sheet will be easily compressed, due to this, the density of adherence to the lags will significantly increase. With the correct cutting, the amount of unproductive waste material is reduced, the work is done faster and better.

Styrofoam prices

styrofoam

Video - How to cut styrofoam with a knife

You should have diagrams of engineering networks even before starting the construction of floors, they should be taken into account when marking the locations of the logs and laying insulation. We will give some practical advice on the installation of utilities.

All connections must be made in the most reliable way and very carefully. This applies to both sewer pipes and electrical wiring.
Electric cables must be laid in plastic or corrugated metal pipes. In general, we do not recommend putting the wiring under the floor, it is much more convenient to do the wiring on the walls. Moreover, they will still get off with clapboard or other materials, and under them you can easily hide all the nets.
The most dangerous places in terms of blockages must be provided for the sewage system. Open pipelines in such places have special technological access; in case of clogging, they can be easily cleaned with their help. Most often, dirt accumulates in the knees and joints. Place them as close to the walls of the premises as possible. Moreover, the boards in such places should be parallel to the direction of the pipeline. This will make it possible, in the event of unpleasant situations, to provide access to a problem area after dismantling only one or two boards.

Under-floor communications

During the installation of sewer pipelines, it is better to make a reserve of throughput, to play it safe against clogging. The path of the pipes will be of a larger diameter, let their total length increase slightly. The main thing is to have confidence in the long-term and reliable operation of the entire system.

Video - Installation of the subfloor

Video - Floors on the ground. How to do it right

The construction using lags is one of the most popular flooring methods in both individual and multi-apartment housing construction. The logs are a wooden support (sometimes metal or reinforced concrete) in the form of long wide beams, laid perpendicular to the ceiling. The lags can be installed on beams, support posts or a monolithic slab.

Pros and cons

The construction of a floor using lags is a "pie" consisting of several layers, each of which carries its own functional load. First, logs are laid on the floors, a plank base is made, a vapor barrier membrane, insulation, waterproofing film, and finishing base are laid. Most often now, such structures are used in private village houses, but a certain time ago, floors on logs were installed in apartments (especially in panel houses built in 1960-1970).

Also, a wooden floor on logs is made on a loggia or on a balconyif you want this room to be warm. In the bathroom or in the toilet, that is, in rooms where there is a high probability of leaks that can negatively affect wooden structures, most often they arrange a base in the form of a concrete screed.

The main advantages of the floor on logs:

Material availability. Since logs are usually made of wood, a relatively inexpensive material, a device of this design will be relatively inexpensive.
Environmental friendliness of the material. In a country house, most of us would like to be closer to nature, so wood is considered the best option to meet such needs.
The load on the floor or ground is distributed evenly.
This design makes it possible to save money, and not to perform any kind of concrete base.

The design with the use of lags is universal, since it can be laid on it both wooden and any other floor coverings.
The technology for the device of such a base is quite simple and available for implementation on its own.
Wooden beams are significantly lighter in weight compared to a concrete base. This is of no small importance when the floor is installed on the second and higher floors. The floor on the joists will not greatly increase the load on the floor.
If the base has slopes, then with the help of special substrates for the logs, this problem can be easily solved without additional costs. In the case of a concrete screed, this would entail the implementation of additional work and the acquisition of materials, which would lead to a significant increase in the cost of the structure.

Convenient design for insulation. That is why such a flooring scheme is most often used on the first floor of a country house. On the second and subsequent floors, it can also take place (only here the insulation layer is changed to sound-insulating material).
Convenient design for the location of communications. In the floors, along the logs, you can lay all the networks necessary for a private house: water supply, sewerage, electricity. Moreover, if necessary, they can be easily reached.
Ventilated underground. Since there is free space between the logs and the base, it turns out to be ventilated, which provides favorable microclimate conditions for the residents of the house.

The main disadvantage of floors using wooden logs is that they are not resistant to moisture.

But with proper installation, organization of a sufficient level of ventilation in the technical underground, the use of high-quality steam and waterproofing materials, this "minus" is easily minimized.

Floor device

Since the floor is the basis of the whole house, which is more exposed to various factors (load, humidity, wear) than other structural elements, certain requirements are imposed on the material from which it is made:

Wood moisture - no more than 12%. The humidity depends on how long the floor on wooden logs will last. Therefore, it is so important to comply with the above norm.
Wood for floor mounting on logs should not have defects: chips, cracks. greenery. Otherwise, the floor will not last long and its quick repair is inevitable.
Antiseptic treatment of wooden elements with special compounds that prevent rotting and the appearance of fungus.
Fire-fighting wood processing.
Using high quality material. For the installation of floors on wooden logs, the most suitable types of wood are fir, pine, oak, larch, ash.

The most suitable time for arranging the floor on the logs is the period at the end of the heating season, when the optimal level of humidity is created inside the room, and therefore the tree will absorb moisture in minimal quantities.

If the work is carried out in the summer, then it is better for them to choose a time when the dry and warm weather lasts for at least two weeks.

The choice of a cake for the floor, arranged along the lags, depends on:

type of base. Floors can be installed on the ground, on a slab, on poles (with a ventilated underground);
the floor on which the flooring is carried out;
type of finish floor covering. It is likely that the owners can design a floor device with water or electric heating.

On a concrete base

The easiest option for flooring on logs. First, a waterproofing material (glassine, roofing felt, roofing felt, polyethylene or polymer membrane) is laid on the base. Next, lay the lag bars and set them on a level. Insulation is placed between them (expanded clay, sawdust, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool).

On the ground

This is a variant of the so-called cold floor. More suitable for warm climates or for flooring in country houses for summer residence. Before starting work, the fertile soil layer is removed, the soil is compacted and covered with rubble with sand, then clay is poured and compacted. It is important to remember that the height of the poured layer should be three times the height of the log.

Lags are treated with an antiseptic solution and sunk in a bedding with obligatory fastening to the foundation. After that, the floorboards are laid.

There is also a warmed version of the flooring device on the ground.For this, fertile soil is also removed and the soil is tamped. Further, the soil is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Next, crushed stone is poured and poured with cement milk.

After the cement has set, the waterproofing is again laid and the installation of gypsum fiber (GVL) or fiberboard (fiberboard) is started. Expanded clay is poured on top and a screed is performed. Logs are installed on the screed, along which the floorboard is nailed.

With the underground

A ventilated underground is created when the logs are laid on posts (with a strip foundation) or made hanging (with pile-grillage foundations) when there is not too much distance between the places of support. In this case, the underfloor can be cold or insulated. To insulate the subfloor, a non-moisture-absorbing insulation material is laid on the layer of waterproofing material, for example, polystyrene, expanded clay, expanded polypropylene foam or expanded polyethylene.

In this case, a distance of at least 50 mm must remain from the upper level of the insulation to the beginning of the subfloor. The floor structure itself can have a double or single floor of planks, be insulated or not.

All possible options are shown in the figure below.

Materials and tools

For the device of the floor along the logs, depending on the type of base, the following materials and tools may be required:

A beam with a rectangular or square section, the dimensions of which depend on the number of support points, the size of the span and the distance between the lags.
Concrete blocks or bricks, waterproofing material (resin or roofing felt) for the installation of posts when installing floors with underground.
Antiseptic compounds and fire retardants for processing wood products.
Crushed stone, sand, clay for flooring on the ground.

Expanded clay, cement (concrete), gypsum fiber board or fiberboard when installing the floor on the ground with insulation.
Insulation, the type of which is determined by the type of floor base.
Vapor barrier membrane, waterproofing film.
Skull block and unedged board for sub-flooring.
Brushes for applying antiseptics and fire retardants.

Devices for tightening and fastening the lag.
Solid grooved edged board or plywood.
Level and tape measure.
Electric jigsaw, screwdriver, wood saw, hammer.
Nails, screws.
Plaster for leveling the floor before laying the floor covering.

Installation of the structure

Consider an example of installing a classic floor structure with a ventilated subfloor.

In order for the floor in a private house to serve for a long time, it must have a high-quality, reliable foundation. As a rule, the logs are placed on the support beams laid in the foundation. In their absence, the device of the floor along the logs is supplemented by work on the construction of support pillars.

First, you need to correctly determine the places where the supports for the logs will be placed, and calculate the number of columns based on the fact that the distance between them should be 0.7-1 m. The step between the supports depends on the size of the section of the timber for the log. The larger they are, the greater the distance between the supports.

To determine the locations of the supports on the embedded beams at a specified distance, marks are made and threads are pulled along them. The same actions are done on the perpendicular side of the underground. The intersection points of the threads will be the installation points of the pillars.

Usually the pillars are made in the form of cubes.At the same time, it is necessary to understand that the higher the column, the more stable, and, therefore, wider it should be. Columns for logs are made of bricks or concrete blocks. You can also use firm cuts from a large tree.

Roofing material is laid on the supports in two layers or another type of waterproofing. The space between the bedside tables is covered with slag, expanded clay, or simply covered with a thick plastic wrap. After the preparatory work described above, they begin laying the beams, which must be firmly fixed to the supports. Logs are laid directly on the beams.

In the event that the length of the log or beam is less than the length of the room, then they are joined together on the supporting bedside tables and fastened with self-tapping screws. Lags and beams are attached to the supports with special metal corners.

The next stage of installation is the sub-floor device. To do this, along the lower edge of the lag, a cranial block is attached on both sides, on which a rough floor is then laid from an unedged board. It is necessary to lay a layer of wind and moisture protection membrane on it to prevent the insulation from getting wet. The membrane is overlapped with the obligatory gluing of the seams.

Further, insulation of the required thickness is laid on the membrane between the lags (depending on the climatic conditions of the region). It is better to use mineral wool as insulation. Insulation plates are inserted so that there are no gaps anywhere. After laying the insulation, a distance of at least 2 cm should remain above it to ensure its ventilation.

A layer of waterproofing material is spread on top of the lag. The strips are overlapped, the seams are glued with special tape. Further, the waterproofing layer is strengthened with bars or slats, which are stuffed onto the logs. You can also use staples for these purposes.

If you intend to lay a special floorboard with a ventilation chute, then there is no need to use slats or bars.

The finishing floor can also be made from grooved solid boards or plywood. The main thing is that the material provides a level base for the installation of the finishing floor covering.

How to do it yourself?

The technology of flooring on logs with a ventilated subfloor is quite simple. And it is quite possible for an inexperienced amateur to work with his hands to arrange such a floor on his own. The main thing is to be patient, study the theory and correctly calculate the amount of materials.

First, you need to clearly measure the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of required lags.

So, for example, if the length of the room is 10 m and it is supposed to lay the floors with a board 30 mm thick, then the distance between the logs should be no more than 0.5 m.A simple calculation gives us the value of the number of logs - 20 pieces. It should be noted that the distance from the wall to the log should be no more than 0.3 m, which means that the number of logs will have to be increased by one.

Next, you should purchase materials and stock up on tools.The general technology for installing the lag is about the same for different types of bases, the difference concerns only the features of the cake, depending on whether or not it is necessary to carry out floor insulation.

The lags begin to be fastened from the wall. To attach the lags to the beams, special corners are used, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Self-tapping screws are used for their fastening.

Given the thickness of the floor boards, a mark is made on the wall, and the end of the log is set and fixed along it. The same operation must be repeated at the other end, controlling the position of the bar according to the level. When installing logs near the walls, you should not immediately completely fix them. It will be possible to finally pull them off when the lag level is exactly set. After fixing the extreme bars, they move on to intermediate ones.

Aligning the intermediate logs can be helped by pulling the cord between the wall logs. If the floors are insulated, it is better if the distance between the logs matches the size of the insulation. After installing the subfloor under the insulation, you must not forget to lay a vapor barrier, and above it - waterproofing.

Then proceed to the installation of the finished floor.The best flooring option is a tongue-and-groove board. This floor can be used immediately as a topcoat if properly treated.

Before laying the board, it is necessary to adapt it to the microclimate of the room where it will act as a finishing floor for three days. After that, you can start working with it. When laying the board, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap of 10-15 mm between it and the walls, which will also help to level the floor deformations during seasonal swelling of the wood.

The finishing floor is laid perpendicular to the direction of laying the sub-base. The first row is placed with a spike towards the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws so that the plinth will subsequently close them near the wall. The next rows are inserted into the groove of the previous row and secured with self-tapping screws.

If the wooden floor will be used as a finishing one, then it is first cycled, then the first varnish layer is applied and sanded. Then you need to rally and putty all the cracks with a special compound for wood. The floor can now be painted or varnished or waxed.

Warming

Insulation of the floor, arranged along the logs, can be performed with different insulation materials: sawdust, expanded clay, mineral wool:

The main advantages of mineral wool are good sound and heat insulation properties, incombustibility, resistance to flame and chemicals.
Expanded polystyrene is the most common insulation due to its good set of performance characteristics. The material practically does not conduct heat, is vapor-proof, and has a long service life.
Penoplex - a material made of extruded polystyrene foam, does not conduct heat, which means it retains it well, is not subject to rotting and mold formation.

What material to choose for thermal insulation of floor structures is up to the owner of the house, depending on the requirements that he makes to him, the type of floor base and financial capabilities.

To correctly mount the floor base on the joists, it can be very useful to get acquainted with the opinions and advice of professionals in the construction business:

The section of the timber for the lag should be selected based on its width and length. A section is a rectangle with a width that is a multiple of one and a half and a length that is a multiple of two. In the event that the logs are supposed to be mounted on wooden floor beams, the section of the timber is selected based on the step with which it is planned to install it. Here there is a direct dependence of the section on the distance between the bars. With increasing distance, the thickness of the log also increases.
When choosing a timber, do not forget to take into account the presence of at least a 2-centimeter ventilation gap, that is, it must be borne in mind that when laying insulation between the lower part of the finished floor and the upper layer of thermal insulation, there must be free space for evaporation of the resulting condensation. Otherwise, moisture will begin to absorb into the insulation (especially if it is hygroscopic), which will lead to the loss of its operational properties. And when laying a bar on a ground base, it is necessary to take into account the height of the roll attached to the cranial bar

It is better to choose the dimensions of the beams for the lag device a little larger than necessary.
If a whole bar for a lag device of the required size cannot be found, you can connect two boards with the required section. Then the lags will be installed on the edge.
To save money when installing the floor on the ground, you can reduce the span of the log by installing columns to support the timber with a smaller section. Supports are best made of baked brick and installed at a distance of 1.2 m from each other. It is also possible to use silicate bricks, but if only the likelihood of rising groundwater is minimal.

When the beams are located at a sufficient distance from each other, you can lay the logs in two layers - perpendicular to each other.
To achieve a fairly even base when installing the lags, they are not laid on top of the floor beams, but attached to their side parts. Thus, there is no need to level the height of the lags by pads for them.
Some time ago, the lag was fastened with long nails. But progress does not stand still, and for these purposes today special fasteners of various types have been developed, which demonstrate a greater degree of reliability than nails. Fasteners for beams can be in the form of a corner or the letter "P". These are quite convenient fasteners that are fixed to the timber with self-tapping screws, and to the base with dowels. In this case, the fasteners enter the timber to a depth of 3-5 cm.

You will see all the detailed information on how to properly lay a wooden floor on logs in the video below.

For the construction of wooden floors, the final flooring of which is installed on logs, there are many technological variations. The choice of the optimal scheme depends on climatic and geological conditions, on the financial capabilities of the owners. The type of base, the operational specifics of the structure or a separate room affects the way the floor is constructed with lags. However, no matter what principle the wooden floor is arranged along the logs, the construction is based on classical techniques and options, which will be discussed.

The main types of floors with logs

Lags are a rather capacious concept, which includes not only the well-known wooden beam with a rectangular section. The technical definition of lag extends to:

plates created from logs with a cross-section in the thinnest part of at least 160 mm;
logs hewn from both sides with cut dimensions of at least 150 mm;
paired in two, installed on the edge, a board with a width of 100 mm or more and a thickness of 25 mm or more;
directly a rectangular beam, the size of which determines the forthcoming load. The dimensional minimum is considered to be 100 × 150 mm with a step of installing the lags of 60 cm;
slats used for dry alignment and for insulation;
i-beam metal channel, which is used extremely rarely in the case of floor construction on reinforced concrete beams;
long plastic products included in the complete set of factory systems for the formation of a dry screed.

Regardless of the material from which the logs are made, they have the same function: they serve as the basis for the future subfloor flooring and finishing coating. They can rely on a crown, on support pillars, on wooden beams, concrete slabs or on pre-rammed, prepared soil.

Do you need a sub-floor or not?

Depending on the geological features of the site chosen for construction, it is determined whether the space between the soil and the log system is required or can be eliminated in order to reduce costs and labor costs.

The dictator of the mandatory presence or permission for the absence of a subfloor is the indication of the seasonal groundwater level:

with a low occurrence of hot water, simple, extremely cheap, but rather cold floors without an underground are arranged. Lags in this version are supported on a soil base. This type is ideal for summer cottage construction, for the construction of seasonal baths. In the middle lane and southern regions, it can be used if the permanent building has a high basement;
with a high occurrence of HS, which is a serious threat to wood, the log system must be raised above the soil surface. For the installation of the lag frame system, it will be necessary to build support-posts made of brick, monolithic concrete or foam concrete blocks.

The values \u200b\u200bof the GW level should be found out with the local weather service before designing a bath.

Classic floor schemes with lags

The presence of underground space divides all existing schemes into two classes: floors with and without underground. Structures without an underfloor are considered cold, but there are ways to insulate them. Underfloor floors have significantly more varieties. They can be cold and insulated. In insulated floors, a layer of thermal insulation can be located between the logs or between the supports.

The easiest cold floor

This is a structure erected on dry ground. In order to arrange it:

completely remove the soil and vegetation layer;
after removing all the "consequences" of the growth of organic matter, the natural soil must be carefully tamped;
the area freed from plant residues is covered with sifted sand, which can be replaced by crushed stone or construction waste with sand aggregate;
the covered pillow is rammed again. A home-made tool for compacting soil and backfill can be built from a weighty log by nailing a transverse bar to its upper plane as a handle;
then comes a new backfill layer of calcined sand, slag or dense clay. This layer will become a medium and a basis for installing a frame made of wooden logs, which means that it should not create conditions for wood to rot. The thickness of the backfill should be two to three times the thickness of the bar selected for the arrangement or a plate made of half of the log;

Note. If it is planned to use slag to create a pillow, you need to buy and bring it to the site a year before starting work. The slag needs to "mature".

logs are "immersed" in the last layer of backfill, the upper line of which should be flush with the plane of the base being constructed. Before immersion in the ground, lumber must be treated with an antiseptic.

Laying of the logs is done with a step depending on the width of the floorboards. Since the arrangement of wooden floors in saunas is mainly completed with a 37 mm grooved board, the optimal distance between the logs will be 60 cm.Too wide boards are undesirable for arranging a bath, because wood in a humid environment will deform, and wide boards will make warping especially noticeable and inconvenient for movement.

Important. The annual rings of adjacent floorboards must be directed in different directions, so that adjacent elements will spontaneously prevent deformation.

Insulated floor option on the ground

The bottom of a kind of pit for the subsequent filling of a multi-layer pillow is rammed and covered with insulation, which can be used as bags of lime or cement mixture, laid in two rows.
Then crushed stone is covered with a layer of 8 cm. It also needs to be tamped and poured with milk of lime.
Roofing material is laid on top.
Then fiberboard 3 cm thick.
A layer of expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is about 8 cm.

At the end, a multilayer insulating base for the floor is poured with lean concrete, which is dominated by sand. After the mortar has seized, the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor to be constructed is covered with sand and then proceed according to the above scheme.

Cold type of floor with insulated underground

Initially, a standard preparation of the base is carried out. The difference is that calcined sand is not backfilled on the prepared surface, but support pillars are built from solid bricks or foam concrete blocks. Each support post is a separate structure with its own foundation, for the filling of which it is necessary to carry out preliminary marking.

Please note: finishing boards are mounted "in the cross" of the joists.

The best option for installing plank floorboards is:

parallel direction to the luminous flux in the rest room;
parallel direction to the long wall in the wash compartment and in the steam room;
perpendicular to the direction of movement in the dressing room.

If an additional crate is not arranged above the logs, the logs should be laid across the direction of the board. All distances must be measured, planned and calculated, focusing on the central axes of the columns and the lag. Marks must be left on the structural element on which the ends of the lag are to be supported: on the roofing material covering the grillage, on the lower strapping bar.

The first log from the wall must be positioned so that a gap of 3-20 cm remains between its lateral surface and the wall, and in the same way from the opposite side. That is, an independent builder has the ability to slightly move the intended rows of columns when breaking down. The foundation for the supports can be poured entirely under the entire row or under each of the posts separately. It should be noted that the foundation for the column should protrude at least 1 cm, preferably 5 cm around the entire perimeter beyond the support contour. This means that the formwork for pouring with a strip for a number of supports must be constructed so that the foundation strip is wider and longer than the row by 2-10 cm. The foundation for a separate support should be just as wide and long.

Council. According to the axis marked on the harness, half the width of the future foundation should be set aside in both directions and pegs projected onto the ground should be hammered into the points. Pull the cord between the pegs and repeat all the same steps in the perpendicular direction. To fill the foundation with a strip, it is enough to break only the corners of the future local foundation.

The sequence of actions for pouring a concrete base is extremely simple:

soil compaction;
formwork device with a side height of 10 cm;
laying reinforcing mesh on the bottom;
pouring concrete itself, waiting for hardening for 3 days;
then the foundation is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt for waterproofing and supports are built.

Note. The upper plane of the supports should be at the same level. The alignment of the row is done by applying cement mortar. If a layer of more than 5 cm is required for leveling, reinforcing mesh is "sunk" in the cement.

On top of the leveled support, there should again be a waterproofing layer, on which an antiseptic-impregnated wooden gasket 3 cm thick should be placed.That is where the logs will be placed, by the way, also treated with an antiseptic, and on top of the boardwalk.

The underfloor space of cold floors is covered with expanded clay or slag, leaving 5 cm of void on top. For ventilation of the subfloor, a technological gap is left around the perimeter. The skirting boards must be equipped with holes for ventilation of the subfloor. According to building codes, 15 m² of floor space is provided with two ventilation holes formed in the plinth of opposite walls. The total area of \u200b\u200bthe holes is 20-30 cm². They are covered from mice with a thin non-ferrous mesh.

Underfloor heating construction with cold subfloor

In principle, this technology for arranging wooden floors differs from the previous scheme only in that the insulation is placed not in the underground, but in a frame built from logs.

To lay the insulation, a rail is nailed to the lower edge of the timber on both sides, which will support the cranial floor.
The cranial flooring is covered with polyethylene, mineral wool is laid on it or expanded clay is poured.
A ventilation gap is left between the insulation and the upper line of the log.
Cover with a vapor barrier material.
Planking the floor.

Another difference is the way of organizing ventilation of warm floors with a non-insulated subfloor. For ventilation, in this case, vent holes are made in the basement, every 5 m. During the frosty period, the vents are closed.

The described types of structures are a kind of basis for developing your own wooden floor project. All other types are modernized variations on the basic classic theme. Depending on the upcoming load and climatic features, components are simply changed or added.

Today, there are many ways to install flooring in a house or apartment, but most often the well-known and proven method of laying it on logs is used - bars of various shapes and sizes installed under the finished floor. The secret of such enduring popularity lies in the numerous advantages that this floor construction has:

good thermal insulation;
high soundproofing characteristics;
uniform distribution of the load over the entire surface;
the ability to hide various communications in the space under the floor;
ease of assembly (installation, if you have certain skills, you can do it yourself).

An important argument for using this method is its relatively low cost.

Lag characteristics and technical features

Lags are the beams on which the finishing floorboards are laid. They are laid perpendicular to the direction of the floorboards. Logs can be made of polymeric materials, metal or reinforced concrete, but wooden blocks are most often used. The reason for such widespread use of lumber is not only their affordable price. It is easier to assemble a wooden structure with your own hands or disassemble if an urgent replacement of one or more elements is required.

For the arrangement of flooring, wooden beams are mainly used. It is possible to reduce the cost of work if, instead of beams, hewn logs are laid, the price of which is somewhat lower. But this option has one drawback: the logs must be kept for at least a year in a well-ventilated area with low humidity.

Important! In order for the structure to be as stable as possible, the logs should be made from a solid log without any joints.

Installation of the floor on logs can be performed both in a private house and in an apartment, since there is a technology for laying on the ground, on reinforced concrete and on massive wooden floor beams.

Material calculation

To calculate the number of planks required for the floor, it is enough to know the area of \u200b\u200brooms in a house or apartment. It is much more difficult to correctly calculate the lag size and the required number. When carrying out calculations, experts recommend taking into account the following: the type of finishing material (boards, plywood), its thickness, the base to which the logs will be attached (to the ground or concrete or wood).

So, if plywood will be used for laying the finished floor, the distance between the bars should be minimal. It is recommended to place logs under boards with a thickness of 20 mm in increments of no more than 30 cm, with a board thickness of 24 mm - no more than 40 cm, and so on. If the thickness of the board is 50 mm, the distance between the beams can be up to 1 meter.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the beams largely depend on the type of base. When performing work in a house on an earthen foundation, the distance between the posts or supports is taken into account. Accordingly, the larger it is, the thicker the lags should be.

For your information! When performing work on flooring in an apartment, where the basis is predominantly a reinforced concrete base, the dimensions of the section are chosen depending on the thickness of the insulation and the height of the ceilings.

For those who decided to do the flooring with their own hands, but do not have experience in calculations, it is worth asking for help from specialists. They will help to correctly calculate the number and dimensions of the minimum section of the lag.

Installation of the floor on logs on a concrete base

This type of work is considered the simplest, so many do it with their own hands. There are two ways in which you can level all the bars to the same level. In the first case, it is necessary to check the base, and, if necessary, eliminate the drops with an additional screed. Faster installation can be accomplished by adjusting the height of the beams with wood or plywood wedges.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

waterproofing (roofing material, glassine, polyethylene) should be laid and leveled on the concrete surface;
it is recommended to additionally lay soundproof material in the apartment;
a lag is laid on the surface prepared in this way, while the distance between adjacent beams depends on the material of the finished floor (boards, plywood);
the bars should be leveled in height using wedges and secured;
between them it is necessary to lay thermal insulation, which is covered on top with waterproofing material;
the final stage is the wooden flooring.

Despite the relative simplicity, you should not try to lay the floors in an apartment with your own hands without some experience. It is better to invite professionals to do this work.

You can see all the stages of laying in the following video:

Wooden floors on logs on the ground

The device of flooring on logs on the ground is used in private houses. This is the least expensive design, but it is not easy to install it yourself.

Initially, preliminary work is carried out in the house: the top layer of the soil is removed along with the plant roots and debris in it. It is recommended to level the remaining soil.

The fastening of the bars in this case is carried out to small posts. You can build them as follows:

First, they dig out recesses, the dimensions of which are at least 40x40, and the depth is 50 cm l (more about this in the next video:
Pour the solution so that the foundation protrudes 5 cm above the soil surface;
Roofing material must be laid on top of the foundation, and then a brick column is laid out, the size and height of which depends on the width of the bars.

After the beams have been laid, the horizontal should be checked. Deflections can be leveled with wedges, and the excess can be removed with a plane.

In the event that in the house the floors on the logs are raised above the ground surface, there is the possibility of additional insulation. For this, bars are nailed to the logs for laying the subfloor. On top of it, it is necessary to lay and level insulation, leaving at least 5 cm of free space to the final coating. To replace the floors on the logs as late as possible, the ventilation of the subfloor should be done correctly. The installation is completed by the flooring of the boards.

Wooden floors on joists installed on floor beams

Those who plan to install the flooring in the house on wooden floor beams with their own hands should take into account one important point: you can use them as a lag when the step length does not exceed 30-35 cm, as in this video:

If the beams are laid less often, the finishing device is performed on the logs installed on top. In this case, they are laid perpendicular to the beams, and fastened with self-tapping screws.

After finishing work, it is necessary to check the entire base with a level and, if necessary, level it with wedges and a plane. Completes the installation of the finishing coating.

Finishing flooring

Regardless of what technology was used in the process of work, the final stage of the installation of a wooden floor along the logs is the flooring of the finishing coating. Used for this mainly boards or plywood.

There are several guidelines that can be followed to properly lay the flooring. They begin work from the far corner of the room. Boards or plywood are laid in such a way that a compensation gap of at least 1 cm remains between the wall and the covering. When laying each subsequent row, the material is shifted so that 4 seams do not converge at one point.

Plywood and boards are trimmed so that the seam falls in the middle of the base beam. Fastening must be done to all bars without gaps. In boards and plywood sheets, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for fasteners, so it will be possible to avoid splitting them. Pipe holes should be made with a small allowance (8-10 mm). After the installation is completed, a plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

Finishing the finished floor consists in eliminating differences and roughness. Plywood and boards are sanded with coarse sandpaper and polished with a fine-grained abrasive.

Quite often, plywood is used in cases where it is necessary to replace or level the old floor covering. For how to do this, see the next video.

The device of the floor on the logs requires certain skills and experience. Their absence when doing work with your own hands can interfere with the device of the floor covering correctly and efficiently. If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a professional builder. The wooden floor laid in compliance with all requirements has an excellent appearance and is distinguished by a long service life.