Diy brickwork oven diagrams. A rude oven with your own hands: from a simple country house to a two-story for a house with a heated attic
For heating houses, completely different elements and equipment are currently used. However, the most traditional choice is considered to be a stove that can operate on a variety of fuels, as well as different sizes and other parameters. Even fireplaces can be created, but they are not intended for permanent heating of the building. Especially often, stove heating is created in a private house, since often structures are built in a fairly large away from central heating systems.
The stand-alone stove option is considered an excellent choice, and at the same time a special heating and cooking surface can be formed, with the help of which the stove can be used not only for heating the structure, but also for cooking and heating food.
Also, various furnace options can be made by hand, so the cost of this process will be minimal.
The main types of equipment
There are many types of stoves with different parameters. The most popular are:
- , which can be used not only for a private house, but also for a bath or other small structure that needs heating, and they can be equipped with various elements for comfortable sleep or cooking;
- that can be used exclusively for space heating;
- rough, which is a rather interesting option, they have, which allows them to be used both for cooking and as a heating system.
What makes products equipped with coarse
This oven has interesting parameters and features... This includes, first of all, the fact that the most popular material for creating a structure is one with excellent parameters. These include excellent heat dissipation, so such equipment will be provide fast and uniform heating.
This material is considered very attractive, therefore the products obtained from it fit perfectly into any interior. The stove created by do it yourself from ceramic bricks, in a rustic style. This stove is well suited to buildings made of wood.
If desired, such equipment can be additionally decorated with a help that has the same heat transfer rates as brick from this material... However, due to a more attractive and interesting appearance, the resulting design will fit perfectly into absolutely any interior. In this case, it is possible to build equipment that will have the desired color and texture.
Constructive elements of the stove
Coarse furnaces are an improvement over straight-through elements. But, at the same time, creating them with your own hands is not so difficult, but their very the device is considered simple... However, in order to make a really high-quality and reliable design, you must follow the instructions exactly, and also have at least initial skills in working with bricks.
Read also: Stove heating in a two-story house
To complete all the stages with your own hands, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat structural elements are included in the equipment. These include:
- The blower, which is a special chamber designed for the passage of air. It usually contains matching doorwhich allows the person to regulate the air supply. As a rule, there is a grate between this element of the stove and the chamber where the fuel is combusted.
- The firebox is the working chamber itself, which is designed for loading and burning fuel, in it there is a door.
- presented in the form of vertically arranged channels through which passes heated gas from burnt fuel.
- The sponge used for cooking can have different sizes and parameters.
- The chimney serves as a convector, but its main purpose is to remove exhaust gases from the room to the street. It is important that it has a door for cleaning the pipe, as well as a damper.
Before creating a structure, a diagram of the future equipment must be developed and drawn, and this issue must be approached with all responsibility and seriousness. After all, it is the drawings that are the basis for creating the stove itself... If there are mistakes or shortcomings in them, then this can lead to the fact that with your own hands you get a structure that will not cope with its main tasks, and it can also be completely dangerous to use.
What materials are used to create a stove
You can make this structure from completely different materials. These include:
- Brick, which is used for masonry, is used to create not only stoves, but also fireplaces. It is best to choose a ceramic brick, the appearance of which depends on attractiveness of the final design.
- Clay and sand used to create mortar used for brickwork in the house.
- Cast iron grate used for storing fuel, it can be used for both firewood and coal.
- Roofing material that allows you to create high-quality waterproofing of the furnace.
- for various structural elements.
Read also: How to properly heat the stove with coal
In order to build good and reliable equipment, all materials must be of high quality and beautiful, so their choice should be taken very seriously.
Stages of creating a stove with a rough
It is actually not so difficult to make this design, but it is important to know what stages should be performed and for each you need to pay a lot of attention:
- A diagram of the future structure is created. Drawings can be generated independently or with the help of specialists. They need to be given a lot of attention, since the reliability and safety of the final design depends on them. The diagram should contain dimensions and other basic parameters of the stove, and everything should be detailed in it. Even if standard fireplaces or designs are created without rough, there should still be drawings. The scheme is usually formed using special computer programs, however, if you have the skills and experience, you can make it on paper.
- Creature stove foundation. Since fireplaces and stoves are most often formed from bricks, they should only be installed on a solid and solid foundation. It must have the optimal dimensions and parameters for the furnace, which you are planning to build... A place for the structure is determined, a trench of the required thickness and depth is pulled out, after which the bottom is well compacted, and a cushion of sand and gravel is also laid. Next, the concrete solution is poured, after which the trench is filled with brick. The resulting foundation should be covered with roofing material for high-quality insulation. All work is easy to do do it yourself without problems.
- The formation of the structures themselves. Stoves or fireplaces are laid from ceramic bricks, and cement mortar must be used. When creating structures in the house, it is best to use while working with fireclay powderwhich will not allow the oven surfaces to heat up too much during use. The stove can be created using different types of masonry. Bricks should be soaked before use about 10 minutes in water... During masonry, it is important to do so that there are no cracks and gaps, however, you do not need to use too much mortar for masonry, otherwise you can get a poor-quality and uneven oven.
- Installation is rough. The blower body is placed on the created row of bricks, and a door is attached to it... It is best to wrap all the elements with an asbestos cord, after which about 4 more brick rows are placed. This is necessary to close the oven door. Next, the grates are mounted, and after laying the last row of bricks, you can proceed to the installation of the slab, which stacks with mortar.
- Installing a chimney, which is usually a pipe that goes outside. It is important to use a thermal barrier where the element passes through the wall.
Stove heating as a way of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove-maker, many owners of suburban real estate are forced to master the construction of brick ovens with their own hands.
To build a heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase construction materials for a significant amount.
Furnace types
A DIY brick stove for home can be:
- russian;
- swedish;
- dutch.
Ovens are also distinguished:
- baths;
- garden;
- heating;
- heating and cooking;
- fireplaces.
Russian stove
Among stove-makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick structure. It is equipped with a resting place called a bed. A cooking chamber is placed under it - a furnace or a crucible, under which there is a blower. It must provide continuous combustion of solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick ovens for home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.
The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, the Russian stove is capable of heating living space, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.
Swedish stove
Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small do-it-yourself brick oven is intended for:
- for space heating;
- for cooking food.
A cast-iron stove on 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. In the process of building a stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.
A serious design flaw is the high degree of fire hazard. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.
Dutch oven
This type of furnace unit owes its appearance to Russian stove-makers, it was they who invented it. The "Dutch" is intended for heating premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. It will take 10 hours to completely warm up a cold room with it.
During the off-season, a Dutch brick stove with its own hands is able to retain heat during the day. Its constructional design provides high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.
"Hollanda" is erected only with the use of oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and give it off gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.
How to lay out the oven and what is needed for this
Having considered the designs of the furnaces and having made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. In addition to the design, the furnace structure must comply with fire safety requirements, which is why the stage of preparation for its construction is so important, which involves:
- Development of a detailed scheme for laying a stove with or without a stove.
- Determination of the installation site of the structure.
- Selection of materials.
- Selection of tools.
- Estimating construction costs.
In addition to the above activities, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.
The final result of construction depends on how competently the project of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you can not develop diagrams - do-it-yourself oven drawings, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, it is necessary to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also does not hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.
When choosing the location of the oven, first of all, pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the design of the oven. Since the process of how to lay out a brick stove in the country or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove-makers advise novice craftsmen to build reduced models of future units.
Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex designs of stoves are selected, laying stoves with their own hands for inexperienced craftsmen can be overwhelming. In this case, you should seek professional help.
Selection and purchase of building materials
Regardless of what type of furnace is to be built, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of bricks.
On sale there are 4 types of bricks for the construction of furnace units:
- hand molded;
- ceramic;
- refractory;
- silicate.
Ceramic products are used for facing the unit. It is advisable to purchase brick M-250 or M-500, which is more expensive, but more homogeneous than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.
Sand, when a brick stove is being built with your own hands for a summer residence or private household, you need to take clean, without garbage and various impurities and therefore it must be sieved through a sieve.
Clay for kiln units is normal, skinny or oily. The proportions of mortar preparation and the technology of laying bricks depend on which type of it is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has normal fat content.
Instrument preparation
To fold a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.
From construction tools you need:
- for cutting bricks - grinder;
- for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell of no more than 2 millimeters;
- shovel;
- to seal the solution - jointing;
- for masonry mixture - combined kerma;
- perforator plus mixer nozzle to it;
- for chopping bricks - a hammer-pick.
You also need to prepare measuring instruments:
- tape measure at least 5 meters long;
- to control verticality - a plumb line;
- wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
- to check the evenness of the laying - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
- building and flexible levels.
Auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.
Arrangement of the base for a brick oven
When we put the stove with our own hands, first of all, provide a distance between the chimney and the roof overlap, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can start marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.
It is better to form it when arranging a common building base. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be associated with the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to different degrees of stress.
First, the pit is poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is erected from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.
When the base is ready, its top level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor of the upper floors is calculated. The base will certainly be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.
Brick masonry for the house
First of all, you need to study the drawings of the stove with your own hands made of bricks. Then they prepare a solution and lay the first row with a spatula and a trowel. Often novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not "regret" the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.
The work is performed as follows:
- Hold the brick in place with one hand.
- By applying light blows, they mark the place of the chip.
- Keeping the brick in weight, they carry out its sharp and precise chopping into parts according to the marked marks.
- When they build a wood-fired stove for a summer residence or at home with their own hands, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, they put the outer row of bricks, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
- The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be chopped. They are laid with the chopped side inside the structure array. This moment is important when constructing chimney ducts and a firebox. The fact is that the chips will be a place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.
Features of the construction of arches and vaults with your own hands
When they build arches and vaults, they also use the drawings of a brick oven with their own hands for a summer residence or other structure. The bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual filling, with a thickness of at least two rows.
The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox use a "lock" layout or masonry by the "bridge" method - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be exchanged for a wooden frame.
For the construction of the pipe, silicate bricks are used that can withstand temperature extremes and precipitation. It is resistant to acidic environments generated by contact with smoke and water vapor. It is important that there are no irregularities or chips in the chimney. When the furnace structure is ready, a control furnace is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.
Large and small do-it-yourself brick ovens are popular in private houses. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it will serve for decades.
Despite the multitude of modern heating methods, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a welcoming atmosphere.
However, the oven will serve for a long time and with high quality, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:
- Where is the best place to place the stove?
- What materials and tools are needed for work?
- What should be the oven grout?
- How to correctly lay the stove?
Where to place the stove correctly?
When considering how to fold the stove with your own hands, you need to correctly place it. For this, the following conditions are taken into account:
- The walls of the smoke channel must be located at a distance of at least 40 cm from wooden structures
- The chimney is allowed to be brought out on the same level with the ridge ledge if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
- If the distance from the ridge ledge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
- If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge ledge, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the lines that connects the upper cut of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees
Read also the guide on how to do it yourself
The base of the house and the stove have their own specific characteristics, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.
Materials and tools
Regardless of the type of furnace chosen, the work on their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences between themselves. On the technical side, they will differ in their versatility, the degree of impact and size.
The initial building materials for the construction of brick ovens are:
- wire
- lime with sand
- brick
When purchasing the latter, you need to convince it of its correct shape and a sufficient level of firing.
To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. You will also need auxiliary equipment, which can be purchased in the markets:
- Necessary doors and flaps
- Views and valves
- Grates
- Hotplates, etc.
In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, as a rule, a stove's hammer, level, etc.).
Preparing a mortar for laying a furnace
The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. The sand must be sieved through a sieve so that its mesh size does not exceed 1.5 mm. Clay at this time should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It will not be superfluous to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove-maker chooses proportions for himself.
After mixing sand and clay, it is necessary to add water and start stirring the resulting mixture until a thickening similar to fat sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be laid on the brick in a bunch and spread with a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).
Brick kiln ordering
When everything you need is assembled, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, they begin to solve the main question of how to fold the stove with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge variety of ordering options, and only one will be considered further - the Swede. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to hold the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.
All information about the furnace should be displayed in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.
Alternatively, you can use an electric boiler to heat the room ...
The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even insignificant ones to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.
It is customary to place the blower in a niche on the right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the chamber, the inner sides are combed under a cone. Very often you will not have to use a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disc, but do not beat off with a hammer.
After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, a dressing is made with an offset of 30-50% for greater structural stability.
The height of the third row should line up with the top edge of the door. In this case, it is necessary not to forget to cut the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for easier ash removal.
The fourth row fits on the left. First, a cleaning door is mounted. A U-shaped canal is made. A square hole must be laid above the ash pan, while blocking the blower door.
The fifth row has practically no differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.
It is necessary to prepare the refractory brick before proceeding with the laying of the sixth row (it will be in place of the hatching). If this is not possible, the usual one will do. In this case, the grate must be supported on the fifth row. A small compensating gap of up to 15 mm is required between it and the bricks, which is filled with sand or a hall.
In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A door for the furnace is placed on the sixth row.
The eighth and ninth rows are laid in the same way as the seventh. They should reach the top of the combustion door.
In order for the flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the furnace, it is necessary to comb out the bricks that block the left channel and the furnace partition.
Laying out the tenth row, you need to monitor its strict verticality. A cooking deck will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to cook. The furnace door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.
The question of how to fold a brick oven with your own hands in half is resolved. The hob covers the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks, which will contact with it, should be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm.A small door for the furnace is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.
The twelfth and thirteenth rows fit almost the same. The main difference is that at first both square channels are connected into a single one, and in the next row they are again separated.
The fourteenth row is installed by analogy with the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, it will be possible to use the cooking stove, preventing the oven from heating up.
In the fifteenth row, the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. To remove odors and ventilate the cooking compartment, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.
In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the cooking chamber, which will allow to block the chamber. In a conventional heating furnace, a domed ceiling would have to be built.
The next two rows cover the brewhouse, but both square channels remain untouched.
On the surface of the hob, two bricks are placed on the edge, 40 cm removed from the back wall. The doors for cleaning and the samovar pipe are immediately mounted. By analogy, the next row fits.
In the twenty-second row, you must close the doors. Three longitudinal channels (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively) are made above the brewhouse, on the left - all the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid across. The next row is similarly done.
By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are laid.
In the twenty-seventh row, three bricks must be laid at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows fit.
In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the thermal chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is blocked by a valve. The next two rows are stacked with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.
It remains to equip a simple chimney for the stove.
Detailed video instructions for laying the oven with your own hands
In custody
The given order of the "Shvedka" oven is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to prepare food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country country houses.
But the question of how to fold the stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove-maker or a person who has already erected such structures. He will certainly give a lot of valuable advice.
If you are thinking of building a country house that is as comfortable as possible for a comfortable stay in it, then it usually cannot do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it for most of the year. Lack of experience in furnace work should not stop the owners who want to invest in the furnace themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complicated option, the design of which is simple and understandable.
In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Consider also simple options that are suitable for a small house and for a novice stove-maker – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.
To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for making the right choice. Well, then - consider several options, focusing on the optimal for a specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.
General requirements for brick ovens
The conditions that the selected design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:
- The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
- In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the oven, warming up, give more heat, while the indicator of the front and rear walls is 3 ÷ 4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.
For heating efficiency, a T-shaped version of the furnace is often installed. It can be designed for heating only, or it can perform two functions if a model is selected in which a hob is provided. Such a stove is capable of heating up to four rooms with a small area.
- The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the building inside the house, it should be as rational as possible. For the oven to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking appliance, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
- When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter should correspond not only to the area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms, but also to their location and the number of external walls. This table will help to determine the choice of the stove by the area of \u200b\u200bits surfaces, depending on the characteristics of the room:
| Room area, m2 | Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outer corner | Room with two outer corners | Hallway |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oven surface opening into the room, m2 | ||||
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- There is no need to reinsure yourself and choose a massive stove for a small house, since it will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel to warm it up, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown into the chimney”. In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the furnace, and not only on its massiveness.
- Any stove, even the most heat-intensive, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat generated by it will escape through walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to keep the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.
If you plan to save on fuel, getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to numerous channels, will keep the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.
How to choose the right place for your oven?
The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up a project, so you can install a heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, it is much easier to equip a foundation for a stove before building a house, both in terms of calculations and in the amount of work. It must be said right away that the base for the furnace must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may deform.
- If several rooms are planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crosshairs of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not be in contact with each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the above diagram.
- In some cases, home owners prefer to install the stove near the entrance from the street, since the heat radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold streams.
- Placing a combustion hatch near the front door will eliminate unnecessary garbage in living rooms, since you will not have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to burn yourself against it.
- The walls of the heating structure should not adjoin the walls of the house close, that is, to any of them it is necessary to provide free access, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in this case, a reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.
- If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney falls between the attic floor beams, which should be at least 150 mm away from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating "gasket" filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite, or just sand.
- The area in front of the furnace must be covered with a heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.
You may be interested in information about what constitutes
Models of small brick ovens of simple design
Small brick ovens do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emerging alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are not available in the countryside. A stove, traditional for Russian houses, or will help out in any situations - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if gas is not supplied to the house, and the electricity is often turned off or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing about the demand for models of small furnaces, engineers have developed a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed below.
Kroha oven
The name of the model "Krokha" itself speaks of the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, with the correct installation of the structure, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be an ideal option, as it can create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in wet or cold weather in summer.
This stove is called "simpleton", because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach, it may well be built even by a novice craftsman. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640 × 770 mm at the base, therefore it is suitable even for a small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.
The designer of the stove A. Sushkov has successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, therefore "Krokha" will perfectly fit not only into the dacha room, but also decorate the interior of a private house with its cozy look. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of \u200b\u200b18 ÷ 20 m² and has the following characteristics:
| Furnace parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 3 × 2.5 bricks or 640 × 770 mm |
| Construction height to pipe | 2030 mm |
| Furnace weight | 1260-1280 kg |
| Furnace depth | 746 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat transfer with a disposable firebox | 1760 Wt |
| With a three-time firebox | 2940 Wt |
| Hob | Single-burner |
The designer well thought out the rationality of the stove, therefore, for its small size, it gives excellent heat transfer. In the process of stoking this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the released heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a "summer" run, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. "Krokha" has three design options, differing from each other in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often an improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and the firebox are located on the same side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms that are across the wall from the kitchen.
In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only wood heat, but also fuels such as coal, briquettes and peat.
Up to the level of the stove, the stove has even walls, and above the furnace door, under the hob, around the entire perimeter of the structure, a row protruding forward by 30 ÷ 35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: upper, air-gas and lower - fuel. In the upper part of the furnace there are channels for heated air circulation. They contribute to the maximum long-term retention of heat in the oven, preventing it from immediately going into the pipe.
According to the developer's idea, this furnace should be equipped with a furnace door with refractory glass, through which the tongues of flame are perfectly visible. Therefore, if desired, "Kroha" can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.
Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.
| Dimensions in mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 | 21 | |
| Red brick (without chimney | 352 | |
| Shaped (rounded) red brick | 124 | |
| 350 × 250 | 1 | |
| Glass furnace door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S) | 210 × 250 | 1 |
| Cast iron blower door | 140 × 140 | 1 |
| 410 × 340 | 1 | |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500 × 700 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 250 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 40 × 40 × 5 × 520 | 4 |
Compact stove model - "Malyshka"
The main advantage of the model is its small size, which is 505 × 760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360 ÷ 365 kg, allows the installation of the structure on a strong heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, therefore, when heated, it quickly begins to give off heat to the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.
When laying this model of the furnace, it is important to take into account one point - in the first lower row of the back wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, it must be laid without mortar. This must be done so that after the completion of the laying, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the furnace can be cleaned from the fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help to dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place already on the solution.
If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Usually, for this, an asbestos sheet with a thickness of 5 mm is used, which is closed from above with a metal sheet or roofing material and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and fixed in front of the oven.
The first heating of the finished furnace must be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and latch are opened for ventilation and final drying, which should be carried out for at least 7 ÷ 9 days.
After drying, it is recommended to whiten the oven. The question arises: . On the whitewash layer, smoke will immediately appear, if there are small gaps that are not visible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. The smoke will leave black or gray stripes on the whitewash, which will stretch upward from the rejected seam. When such traces appear, the seam from which they emanate must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.
You might be interested in information on how to do with step by step instructions
If you plan to make decorative finishing of the outer walls of the "Baby", then you can start this only after two or three months of operation of the stove.
The chimney of this model has such a design that you can bring it outside in three ways:
- Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
- Embedding a steel pipe in it and connecting it to the main chimney;
- The embedded pipe can be brought out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.
This diagram will help you understand the design of this model of a brick oven, since the number of rows and the configuration of the chimney ducts are clearly visible on it.
The main characteristics of the "Baby" stove are as follows:
| Furnace parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 505 × 760 mm |
| Construction height to pipe | 725 mm |
| Furnace weight | 360 ÷ 370 kg |
| Furnace depth | 737 mm |
| Chimney channel cross-section | 100 × 100 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat dissipation | 1210 Wt |
| Hob | single-burner |
For the construction of the "Baby" stove, the following materials and ready-made elements will be required (excluding the chimney):
| Name of materials and components | Dimensions in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the furnace | 37 | |
| Red brick | 62 | |
| Cast iron blower door | 140 × 140 | 1 |
| Cast iron furnace door | 210 × 250 | 1 |
| Single burner cast iron plate | 410 × 340 | 1 |
| Cast iron grate | 350 × 200 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 250 | 1 |
| 550 × 800 | 1 |
Fireclay brick prices
fireclay brick
It should be noted that this model is easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a water heating tank to its design. In this configuration, the "Baby" can be used as a sauna stove.
You may be interested in information about what mini
Heating stove with a small footprint
This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in the country if, in addition to it, an electric or gas stove for cooking is provided, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.
It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building a stove into the wall between them.
The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they become a kind of "battery" half a wall in size, which quickly and efficiently transfers heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, moreover, the front and rear walls of them account for 210 W, and the side ones - 895 W.
The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, more material will be required for it.
The characteristics of this mini oven model consist of the following parameters:
In this case, the design of the furnace, as well as the structure of "Krokhi", can be divided into two sections: the upper one is for gas discharge, and the lower one is for furnace. The upper part of the furnace, the "bell", consists of vertical channels interconnected by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air stays inside the structure longer, warming up the entire area of \u200b\u200bits side walls.
To build this model, you will need the materials listed in this table:
| Name of materials and components | Dimensions in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick | 260 | |
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the furnace section | 130 | |
| Cast iron grate | 250 × 400 | 1 |
| Cast iron blower door | 140 × 200 | 1 |
| Cast iron furnace door | 200 × 300 | 1 |
| Cleaning doors | 140 × 200 | 2 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 310 | 2 |
| Roofing material sheet for waterproofing | 1000 × 600 | 2 |
| Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox | 500 × 700 | 1 |
For ease of work, craftsmen use special ordering schemes, which must be guided by when laying each row.
Chimney valves prices
chimney valves
This ordering diagram shows the laying of the stove from the first to the twelfth row. The construction can be carried out on a well-equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it will not work to install it on a wooden floor.
- Roofing material is laid under the masonry in two layers, and in order to simplify the alignment of the first row, it is possible to draw with chalk on the waterproofing material using a long ruler, the border of the base.
- When laying the first row, one must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each of the rows.
- As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, a vertical chimney channel is formed.
- On the fifth row of masonry, the grate is being installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
- On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and fixed with wire.
Roofing material prices
roofing felt
- The following diagram shows the ordering from the 13th to the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, therefore it is very important to lay the masonry in accordance with the scheme. Otherwise, all the work may be ruined, and it will have to be redone.
- Having finished the laying of the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the formed space, and the door of the cleaning chamber is installed. Further, up to 25 rows, laying is made according to the ordering scheme.
- On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the door of the cleaning chamber is mounted.
- On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are laid, with which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
- The rest of the rows are laid according to the scheme, and the laying of the chimney begins from the 35th row.
Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the oven masonry
General description and required materials
The final section will present a fairly popular model of the Swedish stove. It was chosen for a detailed description, since with its simplicity of design and compact dimensions, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.
This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good arrangement of all functional elements - they are located on the same front side of the structure. Therefore, such a "Swede" is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the flat rear brick wall, which heats up perfectly during the fire, into the living room.
The dimensions of this structure are 1020 × 885 × 2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal / hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms up to 30 square meters. m.
The presented version of the "Swedish" was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating a country house with a size of 4000 × 7000 mm, built from silicate bricks or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses with other sizes, as evidenced by the parameters of its heat transfer.
- Firewood and other types of solid fuels can be used as fuel for this stove.
- For this model, only the inner lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay bricks will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the facade of the stove, made of high-quality red brick. Its external finishing is not provided.
- For the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), therefore, placing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
- In this design, the masonry of the drying chamber is required.
If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.
You may be interested in information about which one is best to use when building fireplaces and stoves.
Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking "Swedish":
| Name of materials and components | Size (mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red corpulent furnace brick (excluding pipe height) | 250 × 120 × 60 | 551 |
| Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8 | 250 × 124 × 65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140 × 250 | 1 |
| Furnace door | 210 × 250 | 1 |
| Doors for cleaning chambers | 140 × 140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450 × 250 × 290 | 1 |
| Cast iron cooking two-burner stove | 410 × 710 | 1 |
| Grate | 200 × 300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130 × 130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45 × 45 × 5 × 1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45 × 45 × 5 × 700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45 × 45 × 5 × 905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50 × 5 × 650 | 2 |
| Dryer shelf | 190 × 340 | 1 |
| Drying chambers overlap sheet | 800 × 905 × 0.5 ÷ 1 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500 × 700 × 1.5 ÷ 2 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements. | 5mm thick | 1 |
Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"
| Illustration | Description of the order of work |
|---|---|
 | The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, should have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented. |
 | The second row is laid out with 28 ½ red bricks, also solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid apart, with overlapping joints. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the bottom heating chamber begins, which will be located under the oven, and the blower. Vertical chimney ducts also begin to form. Laying out a row, they leave a kind of windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for vertical channels, as well as the blower and the bottom heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast-iron doors are fixed in the windows. After that, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on spoons. Moreover, a brick, installed in the right vertical channel, has an angle that is constrained for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, the fourth part of the fire-resistant fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. For laying this row, you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red bricks. |
 | Fourth row. At this stage, the channels and chambers continue to form, according to the scheme, and the chimney channels remain united for now. For a row, you need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | When working on the fifth row, previously installed doors are blocked. The side walls of the bottom of the combustion chamber are laid with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut out steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but split with the first right channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks. |
 | The sixth row is laid out according to the picture. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and now three separate channels should form at the rear of the furnace. The base for the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks - they are placed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for the oven and the fuel chamber is made of chamotte brick quarters. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The frame of the door must be wrapped with asbestos material so that an expansion gap remains between it and the brick for expansion of the metal when it heats up. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of free bricks until it is rigidly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also previously wrapped in asbestos. For the laying of this row and the interior arrangement of niches, 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks are required. |
 | For greater clarity, this figure shows the laid out sixth row with the oven box installed. |
 | On the seventh row, the chambers of the firebox and oven continue to form - the inner lining is fire-resistant, and the outer masonry is red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red on the bed (flat). For work, you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry goes according to the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked by a brick. The rest of the work is carried out according to the scheme shown, and for them it is necessary to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10 × 10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front part of the furnace, intended for laying a cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks. |
 | Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step cut in fireclay brick along the entire perimeter of the inner space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45 × 45 × 1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and to generally strengthen the row. |
 | On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the oven is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the 10th row masonry. For work, you need to prepare 16 pieces of red bricks. |
 | For the 12th row, 15 red bricks are required - the masonry goes according to the presented scheme. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the shown ordinal scheme. For the 13th row, 15½ will be required, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here it should be borne in mind that the seams between the bricks of the lower row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a pattern different from the 13th. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows also fit in the order. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks. |
 | After completing the masonry of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition, the front part of the chamber is covered with a strip of 45 × 45 × 700 mm. These elements form a reliable support for overlapping the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other. |
 | The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks that cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the overlap for extracting vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the overlap, the laying of vertical channels continues. |
 | The 18th row is laid out almost solid, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work, you need 25 bricks. |
 | After that, a steel angle 45 × 45 × 905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is designed to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, as it must withstand two rows of upper masonry. |
 | On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as the continuation of the ventilation duct, designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and 16 red bricks need to be prepared for laying. |
 | The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the shown diagram. |
 | The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. He is laid out according to the shown scheme. |
 | The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks. |
 | After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate with a size of 190 × 340 mm is mounted on a small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf. |
 | 23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the chimney ducts and drying chambers continue to rise. A cut-out is made on the brick laid above the steam channel, into which a valve will be installed that regulates the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step on the prepared seat is a gate valve with a size of 140 × 140 mm. For this row, 17 red bricks need to be prepared. |
 | On the 24th row, the ventilation damper is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. This row requires 15½ bricks to work on. |
 | On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row, 15½ red bricks must be prepared. |
 | The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the shown pattern. |
 | Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are overlapped with a steel corner having a size of 45 × 45 × 905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 650 mm. The corner, laid on the front side of the drying chambers, is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet overlapping the chambers. |
 | On top of the steel strips and the corner, a sheet of metal 800 × 905 mm is laid. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, which will receive smoke from all other ducts. A chimney will be erected above it. |
 | On the 27th row, a solid brickwork is arranged on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the furnace section. For laying this row, 32 bricks are required. |
 | The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond its limits by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row, 37 red bricks will be needed. |
 | Row 29 requires 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an inward indentation of 50 mm from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven. |
 | The 30th row of the oven masonry is already the first row of the chimney overhead pipe. The row consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10 × 10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for a chimney valve, 250 × 130 mm in size. Further, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar. |
 | The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney valve, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Above, work will already go on the construction of a chimney. |
The lower diagram with a section of the structure of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that the hot streams of gases, thanks to the vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.
