How to make a wooden box for a casket. Master class on working with wood: Casket from "A" to "Z"

Wood is a versatile material. Various items are made from it, which will become original. A good option would be a wooden box with your own hands. It can store small jewelry, valuable coins and other items. Also, such a product will decorate the interior of the room.

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History of caskets

The production of boxes began in antiquity. Egypt became one of the first countries. Egyptian women were very proud of these boxes, as they had an exquisite appearance.

In Japan and China, these items were made from valuable and rare types of wood. They were decorated with carvings and hand-painted paintings.

Caskets were used to store valuables and valuables. Clothes and large items were stored in bulky chests. It is believed that it was on the basis of the latest designs that smaller analogs were made.

In addition, caskets were widely used in various myths. So, Cleopatra kept in them not only jewelry and ornaments, but also a dagger and poison. But, the most famous subject is Pandora's Box.

Types of boxes

If we talk about chests for storing jewelry and ornaments, then they can be divided into several types.

Among popular options worth highlighting:

Wooden crafts. They have many benefits. They differ in affordable cost, wide assortment, aesthetics and originality. Various woods are used for manufacturing. allows you to create structures of various configurations. For decoration use carving or painting.
Leather constructions. These items come in a variety of styles and sizes. As for the surface, it can be smooth, rough and embossed. This also applies to the shade. Precious and semi-precious stones and metals are used to decorate the casket. Such products will be the best replacement for wooden structures.
Metal box. Such caskets are found rarely. Especially if they are made of precious metals. So, the silver box belongs to the Victorian era. A less popular material is stainless steel. Often metal boxes have small size... This is due to the complexity of manufacturing.
Unique products. Less common are caskets made of glass, bone, stone, and other materials. They are especially popular. Transparent or panoramic glass is used for caskets. More rare items are a box made of porcelain, bamboo and other original materials.

Materials for making boxes

For the manufacture of caskets use various materials.

Among the common options, it is worth highlighting:

Chipboard prices

In fact, the box is made with your own hands from various materials.

Some models are exclusive, and it is almost impossible to find them in everyday life.

It is worth highlighting structures made of metals, such as gold and silver... They are often decorated with precious stones. An equally rare option is the ivory chest.

Stainless steel prices

stainless steel sheet

If we talk about how to make a small chest with your own hands, then it is better to stop the choice on wood or MDF.

DIY wood box

For manufacturing, you will need certain tools and a design drawing. With certain skills, you can easily make a chest yourself.

Tool for making

To make a box with your own hands, you must have the following materials on hand:

manual or electric jigsaw;
a set of various files;
a saw for wood for cutting material;
screwdriver in the case of connecting parts with self-tapping screws;
hammer;
files for wood;
sandpaper for grinding workpieces;
paint, rollers and other devices for finishing.

It is worth starting with drawing up a drawing or sketch of a structure.

We prepare diagrams and drawings

To make a beautiful and bright thing, it is necessary to draw up a detailed drawing and diagram of the product. In this case, you need to decide on the size and appearance of the structure.

Casket drawing compiled in the following sequence:

select a design and transfer it to paper in the form of a sketch;
set approximate dimensions;
paper cut blanks and compare them to see the dimensions of the future casket;
if the dimensions are correct, then draw up a drawing with the appropriate dimensions;

If necessary, the dimensions can be adjusted to suit your preferences. It is worth starting to cut the material only after all sizes satisfy the wishes. So, how to make a wooden box in stages?

How to cut out parts correctly

Cutting is carried out on the basis of the prepared drawing. This process can be performed independently or in a special workshop. The cutting sheet is formed on the basis of the drawing. To do this, use paper templates or computer programs.

On the prepared cutting sheet, the walls, bottom and lid of the box are cut. Care must be taken when doing this work.

The cut should be carried out exactly along the marked lines. If there are any deviations, then in the future this will somewhat complicate the connection of parts. To improve the quality of the cut, in the process it is worth using electric jigsaw.

How to make and attach a cover

The cover is made using different technologies. It all depends on the wishes. So, it can match the size of the bottom. In this case, there will be no manufacturing problems. At the cutting stage, the bottom and top of the chest are made in the same size.

The cover may have non-standard dimensions. In other words, it is larger than the bottom and goes beyond the boundaries of the walls. In this case, the main thing is to correctly position the curtains so that the cover rises above the entire structure. This can only be done by correctly calculating the dimensions of the part.

High-volume lids are very easy to manufacture. To begin with, the rim of the required height is knocked off. After that, he is covered with a board. If desired, you can bend the part somewhat. As a result, it will add elegance to the lid.

Box hinges are used to secure the lid. When attaching a part, take into account its features. So, the fittings can be attached to the edge of the lid or its middle: everything depends on the size.

The method of installing the curtains is also important. They can be mounted from above or cut into parts. In the latter case, it is necessary to make recesses in the back wall and on the lid. Small self-tapping screws are used to fix the fittings.

Screw the screws into wooden parts very carefully. Otherwise, the wood may split.

Lock

The lock for the box is installed depending on the preferences of the person. Such fittings often do not perform a protective function, but are original addition. The best option would be a mortise model of the locking system. The lock can also be attached to the inside of the front cover. But this option is only possible if the key is of sufficient length.

Avoiding disadvantages

In order to avoid surprises and mistakes, there are some rules to follow. First of all, this concerns the rules of wood processing:

cutting and sawing must be done according to the drawn up drawing;
stencils will simplify the task of cutting;
before sawing the material, you need to make sure that the dimensions are transferred correctly;
the use of an electric jigsaw will improve the quality of the cut and speed up the manufacture of parts;
the ends should be flat;
all workpieces are processed with emery paper, in particular for the cutting points;
screwing in self-tapping screws must be done very carefully, especially at the ends.

Also, do not forget about covering wooden products with protective paints and varnishes... This will extend their service life. But how to decorate a wooden box to make it look original?

Prices for varnishes for wood

varnish for wood

Decorating the box

After the box is made, you can start decorating it. Today there are many ways to give a product originality.

Among the popular options, it is worth highlighting:

Linden. The core has a soft and uniform structure. The wood does not crack or warp. Also, the material is easy to cut, which allows for clean edges.
Cedar. Wood of this species can be easily cut in any direction.
Pine or spruce. The material is rarely used. This is due to the fact that wood has numerous knots... But the advantage of the material lies in its plasticity, which makes it easy to make geometric threads.
Juniper. Wood is easy to saw and grind.

Important! As for oak, it is better to refuse it, it is very difficult to process and has a rather high fragility.

To carve, you need to prepare a certain set of tools and patterns. The main working tool is a chisel, the width of which is 2 cm. Also, during work, you must follow the safety rules. Care must be taken that the fingers are not in the working area.

Useful video: how to make a box yourself

With certain skills and knowledge, everyone will be able to make and decorate a small chest with their own hands. The main thing is to responsibly approach the choice of style and draw up drawings. A wooden box will not only be the best place to store jewelry, but also decorate the interior.

The use of beautiful wood, elegant design and instructions - the do-it-yourself box below, turn the product into a great gift.

A designer sophistication with an artistic departure from conventional corner joints - the variable-width spike joint - adds a twist to the corners of the box. Below will be presented an option for manufacturing a connection - straight box spikes of variable width.

In the manufacture, you can also use pieces of various types of wood with a beautiful textured pattern, stored in advance. And you can make boxes out of plywood, you just need to choose the required thickness of the material.

Choose contrasting woods for the body, lid and handle.

In this section, we will consider how to make a box with your own hands using corner joints of the straight thorn-groove type.

Prepare end panels A - 10x56x46 - 2 pcs. and longitudinal walls B - 10x56x292 - 2 pcs.
To set up the saw to make the tenon joints shown in the drawing below, install a 19 mm slot disc and make a test slot on the trim, then readjust to 6 mm and check the width of the slots obtained.

Saw a 19 mm wide groove in the trim, trim off the 10x305 spacer to a thickness equal to the groove width and check the fit. Then repeat the operation with a 6 mm groove.

Reinstall the notch disc to 6 mm, adjust to a depth of 11 mm. Attach the wooden extension piece to the movable stop-carriage, which protrudes to the right of the saw blade at a distance of 15 cm. Slide the extension piece over the saw blade, cutting the groove. Saw a pin 50 mm long and 6 mm thick from the 305 mm long spacer.

Video on how to make a plywood box with your own hands

Adhere the side stop to the extension strip with double-sided tape and make two notches in both ends of the end walls A.

Without changing the cutting depth, fit a 19 mm thick slot disc and make cutouts at both ends of the longitudinal walls B.

Then use double-sided tape to glue the second side stand onto the extension piece.

Remove the first stop and make a center cut at both ends of the end walls A.

Bottom

For milling blind grooves for bottom C (3x133x279 - 1 pc.) In end walls A, insert a straight groove cutter d = 3 into the collet of the router and adjust it to a milling depth of 5 mm.

Note. The bottom can be made of sanded plywood 3 mm thick. If there is no plywood, then you can shave off the board.

Fix the rip fence 8 mm from the cutter. Stick masking tape on it and mark the start of milling at a distance of 6 mm to the left of the cutter and an end mark at a distance of 6 mm to the right of the cutter.

Use double-sided tape to glue the trim handles to the outside of the end walls, press the lower edges against the longitudinal stop and mill the blind dowels on the inside of both parts, as shown in the top and bottom pictures. Without changing the settings, mill the through-grooves on the inside of the longitudinal walls B.

Then, finally, grind end A and longitudinal walls B, while making chamfers with a width of 1.5-2.0 mm at the ends of the tenons.
Apply adhesive evenly to the grooves between the spikes and to the tongue and groove of the end and longitudinal walls. Insert the bottom into the grooves, assemble the structure and fix it with clamps, controlling the squareness of the frame assembly.
How to make a box out of wood and not make compartments in it. Let's make partition D - 6x43x124 - 1 pc. Sand it and glue it using wood glue in the middle, clamp it with a clamp.

Lid

Prepare a blank for cover E - 10x168x330 - 1 pc.

Use the clamps to press part E against the carrier board.

Next, saw out 3 × 32 mm folds along the end edges from the bottom side.

Then reposition the cover on the backing board, lower the saw blade and saw 3x22mm folds along the edges. With the saw blade tilted at 37 ° and reattached to the backing board, bevel the end and longitudinal edges. Grind the cover completely.

Note. Before sawing out the folds of the cover, measure the internal dimensions of the case. The rebate dimensions shown in the bottom view allow the lid to move freely in both directions within 3 mm. If your dimensions are different, make the appropriate changes to the dimensions of the folds.

Making a wooden box

Handle and handle base

Take a 16x30x100 workpiece for the F handle. With a 10mm thick slotted disc in the saw, make an 8mm deep tongue in the center of one of the long edges of the workpiece.

Then make contour templates for the handle parts and cut them along the straight lines of the frames. Glue the staple template to the edge of the workpiece.

Saw the staple out by hand. Sand the edges of the part smoothly.

Sharpen the workpiece to a thickness of 10 mm, making sure that it fits snugly into the tongue of the handle bracket. This will be part G - 10x19x79 - 1 pc. Glue the Grip Base Template to the workpiece, aligning its bottom edge with the edge of the workpiece opposite the tongue. Then saw out the base of the handle and sand it to the final shape.

Legs

Make legs H - 10x10x12 - 4 pcs.

Sand the chamfers with a width of 1.5-2 mm on the lower edges of the legs and sand them completely.
Apply glue and press the legs against the bottom corners of the wooden box.

Fantasies of the master in the manufacture of wooden caskets with his own hands

The finish

Inspect all parts and sand if necessary.

Apply a coating such as wood stain and then varnish.

Now present the made box to your beloved and enjoy her reaction.

List of materials

Examples of boxes

DIY wooden box

DIY box with an unusual pattern. Application methods.

Wooden boxes are very popular today among the fair sex. After all, they are very practical and roomy. In addition, such a box fits perfectly into the interior and is a real decoration of any room. However, the prices for such products in stores are quite high. But you can make a wooden box yourself. This does not require special knowledge and skills. Just your desire and patience is enough. This article presents a master class on making a simple wooden box at home.

It will take

Materials required for making a wooden box with your own hands:

1. Board (width - 16 cm, length - 36 cm) - 2 pcs.
Wooden plank (width - 7 cm, length - 36 cm) - 2 pcs.
Wooden plank (width - 7 cm, length - 16 cm) - 5 pcs.
Wooden plank (width - 7 cm, length - 18 cm) - 1 pc.
Rail (width - 1 cm, thickness - 1 cm, length - 36 cm) - 1 pc.
Self-tapping screws (length - 1 cm) - 8 pcs.
Loops (width - 1.4 cm, length - 1.7 cm) - 2 pcs.
Small thin nails - 35 pcs.
PVA glue - 1 b.

By the way, these materials are used to make boxes 16 cm wide, 36 cm long and 7 cm high. If you need a box of other sizes, the parameters of the materials will be different, respectively.

Tools

Tools required for making a wooden box at home:

Sander.
Screwdriver.
Hacksaw or jigsaw.
Hammer.
Thin brush for applying PVA glue.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step making of a wooden box:

1. First, prepare the bottom and lid of the box. It is very difficult to find a board of the required size, so initially select a board of the required thickness and use a hacksaw to cut 2 strips 16 cm wide and 36 cm long.Remember that the thinner the boards are, the neater the box will look. Ideally, the thickness of the board should not exceed 0.5 cm. To get rid of possible irregularities, go over the prepared boards with a sander.

2. Make the long side strips of the box. Their length should be equal to 36 cm, and their width should be 7 cm. Saw out the strips using a hacksaw or jigsaw, and then process them with a grinder.

3. Prepare the short side walls of the box and partitions. In this case, 2 planks 16 cm long and 7 cm wide are the side walls, the remaining 3 planks of similar dimensions are vertical partitions, and 1 plank 18 cm long and 7 cm wide is a horizontal partition. Be sure to grind all parts with a grinder.

4. You will also need a 36 cm long thin batten. It is best to use a glazing bead. The lid of your box will be attached to it. It also needs to be sanded.

5. Start assembling the frame of the box. Using thin nails, first attach the short sides of the box to the bottom, and then the long

6. Next, prepare the partitions of the box. Do not touch the two strips 7 cm long and 16 cm wide, but on the 7 cm long and 18 cm wide plank and the third 7 cm long and 16 cm wide plank, make small cuts in the center. The cuts are best done with a jigsaw. The length of each cut should be 3.5 cm and the width should be the same as the thickness of the partitions. Fasten the 2 planks together using the cuts you made.

7. Insert the dividers into the previously assembled bottom of the box and secure them with nails. It is best to carefully glue the crosspiece to the bottom using PVA glue.

8. Then, using thin nails and a hammer, nail a thin strip to the long side of the box where the lid will be attached. Using a screwdriver, screw the hinges to the bar, and then secure the box cover.
decoupage. In this case, it all depends on your imagination and your skills.

Today, in a master class, I will show you how to make a box for the ages, so that you can pass it on. The whole process will be shown from the creation of the box itself from wood, to its decoration.

I make almost all the blanks for my work myself and people often ask me questions regarding the blanks. Therefore, I want to divide my MK into two parts.
Part # 1 - blank.
Part number 2 - decor.

So, let's start part # 1.

We need:

Plywood 8 mm,
Wooden block 2 * 4 cm,
Nails,
Clay moment "Crystal",
Jigsaw,
Screwdriver with grinding attachment,
Hammer,
Blowtorch (gas cylinder)
Water-based stain (Oak color)
Cutting paper (different weights)

In this photo, I have already sawed the plywood into pieces of the required length.

Before starting to make a blank, I sketch out a drawing on a piece of paper. Here, I share with you my "drawings".
To understand what we are going to collect.
The box will be rectangular (front view). Inside (top view), the box will be divided into three parts. The middle part will be covered with a lid, and on the left there will be a separately made small box. As planned, this is for the first tooth.

This is a "blueprint" of the lids, which will be one inside the large box, in the middle compartment. And the second is on a small box for a tooth (only it will be square).
The covers will be in two parts. I signed them as: Cover and Inner cover.

And these are all the dimensions that we need for a large box.
Naturally, these are inaccurate figures (since our plywood is 0.8 cm thick), so you will have to grind some pieces.

These are the dimensions for the "tooth" box.

I'll tell you right away, because I have to answer this question most often. People ask why they can't cut plywood with a jigsaw?
And I can't! Then, after cutting, I carefully grind each end of the piece. An ideal saw cut is possible only on a machine with a jigsaw, whatever one may say, it will not be possible to cut exactly.
I was lucky, our friends have their own furniture production. Because of one box, of course, I won't go to them (so as not to bother me), but when I need to cut a lot of plywood, I go to them and they will cut everything for me in 10 minutes. Thank them very much for this!
I lay out all the pieces of plywood (having previously sanded well all the walls that will be inside the box, otherwise it will be inconvenient to do this later) and armed with glue, I begin to assemble the box.

When the glue "seizes", I knock everything down with nails. The length of the studs is 2 cm.

Little by little, the outlines of the future box are already visible.
I always collect boxes in this order. First the bottom, then the ends, and then the front sides.

Here's a little bit turned out.

As we can see, the side walls stick out a little. We carefully grind all such places.

The first cap is ready. The lid is for the middle compartment inside the box.
Just glue and knock down two rectangular pieces.
Of course, carnations are visible from the inside, but we will cover them later with decor nails.

The middle cap has taken its rightful place. And a small "tooth" box is already ready.

Here it is, but closer.

Next, you need to put together a lid on a large box. To do this, we need a wooden block (for a good 2 * 2 cm, but I did not find this, I found only 2 * 4 cm).
In general, I had to cut it lengthwise to get the dimensions I needed. Here is a jigsaw to help me.

Lid in progress. I glue the sticks on glue and knock them down (top) with carnations.

The workpiece is ready! You can start firing.

Attention! Dangerously! Working with a blowtorch requires special care. Do not pick up children! Adults take only in the presence of a bucket of water!
I have been working with wood stain for a long time, but I like how the wood stain looks after firing. Overflows of colors are obtained. Therefore, I always "resort" to firing.
I saw many works (by other masters) with firing. I don't want to offend anyone, but sometimes I just want to shout: -Why are you burning plywood like that? Plywood is not wood; it does not require strong firing. Moreover, she is AFRAID of strong fire. The plywood begins to burn layer by layer and unsightly burnt chips form.
In general, we burn the slicker blank, and we burn it so that the "pattern" of the markings is initially beautiful.

I cover it with a stain three times (this is optional, depending on what intensity you want the final color).

Then we take sandpaper (of different hardness) and begin to rub all the ends, giving the plywood an old, age-old look.
The photo shows that a small box has already been processed with sandpaper.

And this is a lid from a large box. BEFORE and AFTER views.
Perhaps this is where I will end part one. And I will move on to the second stage.

We will need:

Stencils,
Putty,
PVA glue,
Acrylic paints,
Acrylic enamel,
Construction paper skocht,
Felling,
Microbeads, rhinestones, beads,
Claim. flowers (paper, plastic),
Various metal fittings and other little things for decoration (of your choice).

We will only decorate the lids, and we have them, if you remember, 3 pcs.

As always, I mix the putty (finishing, construction) with water and PVA glue. That's up to this consistency.
There is about half a glass of putty, 1 teaspoon of PVA and 1 teaspoon of water.

Making stencils more comfortable.

And I transfer the drawing to the workpiece.

So that the pattern on the covers does not look monotonous, I use two different stencils.

The stencils are applied, we are waiting for complete drying.
After drying with fine sandpaper, I carefully grind all the inscriptions.

All these decors will be painted with black acrylic paint. Some I will paint over with a brush, some with a sponge, and some by full immersion in a glass in which I diluted black paint in water.

While it looks somehow gloomy, I even felt sad at this moment. It seems that the box should be "Mother's Treasures", but here the flowers are black. I continue to work.

I also paint the lids black.

Then, while the black color has not yet dried, I chuck it a little with a sponge, here and there with green paint (also acrylic). We are waiting for it to dry.
While I wait, I decide to varnish all my boxes. I use nitro varnish. I varnish it 5-6 times, carefully grind each layer of varnish so that in the end the surface is smooth.

I go back to the lids when the first (black layer) is dry.

I mix greens with whitewash and apply paint to the surface with a wide brush. As if highlighting the relief.

I apply the paint like this: the first layer, for example, along. The second layer of paint, the one that will be lighter, across. And then again the other way around.

Each time I add a little more white.

In the end, I settled on this color.

It seems like it's already a good color, but I want to add a little mother-of-pearl. Acrylic enamel is quite suitable for this role. I slightly dip the sponge into the enamel and walk along the surface of the lids.

It is hard to see in the photo, but the brilliance has appeared. Exactly what is needed!

At this stage, I thoroughly cover all the covers (on top, where there is a stencil) with aerosol varnish.
I'm waiting for it to dry.

When the varnish has dried, using the "Crystal" moment glue, I glue the previously painted decors on the large lid: flowers, filigree, twigs, etc.

I paint glued decors with the same paints that I used to paint the lids. In the same order - first dark green, then more, more and more white.

I add a little gold. And again I varnish the entire lid (on top) with aerosol varnish.

When the varnish on our flowers has dried, I begin to decorate the composition with all kinds of beads, beads, microbeads and rhinestones (mostly green in order to withstand the message of the style of boxes).

I divided the metal fittings into two parts. I paint the fittings that will not be attached to the lids in the color of the lids, and vice versa, I leave the fittings that will be attached to the lids in my native bronze color.
How to "put" the accessories on self-tapping screws did not take off, I think everything is clear here. I put on the loops, screwed on the legs and corners, glued the cutting.

Now you're done!

How I like how moderately burnt plywood looks.

I varnished everything so that now, it seems to me, you can sit down on this composition.

Take a closer photo so that all the rhinestones can be considered.

By the way, here (in these corners) you can insert a photo of the first ultrasound. I deliberately bent the corners so that the photo can be easily inserted there.
It is better, of course, to laminate the ultrasound photo, so it will be more durable.

Almost all metal fittings are also trimmed with green strasses.