How to connect a washing machine drain, how to do it right. Drain hose for washing machine Drain connection for washing machine
Installing a brand new washing machine in his apartment or private house, each owner is worried about how to properly connect it to communications. And if we have already written about how to connect the machine to the water supply, now it's time to consider connecting the washing machine to the sewer.
The safest technology is to connect the drain hose directly to the drain. The process takes effort and time, but we will tell you in detail how to properly connect the drain hose of the washing machine.
Washing machine connection: preparation
Any work related to technology requires serious and thorough preparation. And connecting the washing machine to the sewer is no exception.
If the washer is old and you just reinstall it after moving, then you will have to buy something in addition. Some accessories are included with new machines.
Preparation includes three stages:
- Decide on a place. It can be a bathroom - you must agree, it is convenient, since the drain is very close. A kitchen is also suitable, as the sink and drain are within reach. In rare cases, it is a hallway, when there is very little space in the kitchen or bathroom.
- Prepare your tools. You may need all or part of the list below:
- Screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips, of different sizes (it is better to take a universal screwdriver with nozzles).
- If you have to cut into a pipe, then a special pipe cutter will not interfere.
- Welding for multilayer pipes.
- Siphon for connecting the washing machine to the sewer. Suitable for both conventional and non-return valve.
- Plastic tee.
- Sealant.
- Rubber seals.
- Corrugated hose of the correct length for draining the water (buy a new one or lengthen if the manufacturer provided is not enough).
Important! The drain hose should not exceed three meters in length, so as not to put unnecessary stress on the drain pump.
Remove the transit bolts holding the tank in a fixed position. Unscrew them from the back panel and close with caps. 
After going through all three steps, you can start connecting the drain hose of the washing machine.
Options for connecting the machine to the sewer
There are three most common options, let's consider them.
Through a siphon
Before connecting the washing machine to the sewer, you need to start installing a siphon on the sink. If the siphon does not have another outlet for the equipment, then then you will need a tee.
But there is one drawback! If you connect the washing machine in this way, then a not too pleasant smell from the sewer pipe can get a drum. 
To avoid this, your task is to take care of creating a so-called "air barrier" in the siphon.
Examine the siphon - on it you will find a small hole for a corrugated pipe. This pipe is bent so that when the water stagnates, a "plug" appears in the bend. It is this cork that does not let sewer aromas into your machine.
Such a scheme does not complicate the draining of water, and the plug is "renewed" during each descent of waste water into the sewer system.
Through a siphon with a non-return valve
If you have purchased a siphon with a check valve, you can be sure that the washing machine is protected not only from odors, but also from contaminated water. With it, the drain will be much more effective.
When a blockage occurs in an ordinary siphon, the waste water returns to the machine on its own - the so-called "self-draining" process takes place. To protect the machine from this, it is worth choosing a siphon with a valve.
Attention! After installing the siphon, connect the hose to the corresponding branch using a clamp.
Without siphon
It happens that the connection takes place without a siphon - directly to the sewer pipe. For such a case, you will need to buy an adapter seal ring. It allows you to insert a thin hose into a fairly wide opening. The method is more complicated, but it will be relevant in two cases:
- There is no sink in the room.
- The machine is positioned further than two meters from the sink siphon.
In the photo you can see a visual demonstration of how to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer system without using an adapter siphon tube. It also shows how to connect the AGR via a siphon.
In any case, no matter how you organize the outlet of the washing machine - through a siphon or directly to the pipe, take into account the distance between the drain point and the floor. The point at which the end of the hose should be located according to all the rules must be at least 50 cm above the floor and no more than 1 m.
Of course, the numbers may vary, given the power of the pump: the more powerful the pump, the greater the deviations from the norm.
The considered withdrawal methods are considered one of the most reliable. They will protect your home from leaks, and the aesthetic issue has been resolved - the hose is neatly hidden behind a machine or in a kitchen set. Simple, harmonious, reliable.
Other ways to connect the washing machine to the sewer
But there are also not quite traditional ways to connect the washing machine - they are extremely simple.
You can put the hose over:
All you need in this case is a small plastic hook with snaps to hold the hose. 
The method, although simple, cannot be called reliable. Here are a number of disadvantages you may encounter when choosing it:
- If the water pressure is too strong, the hose may come off and water will spill onto the floor. The hose is so loose that it can be ripped off with a careless movement. Children or pets can also "help" him to fall.
- After each wash cycle, the bathroom, toilet bowl or sink needs to be cleaned and washed.
- Aesthetics is out of the question. Washing dishes where the water has just drained after washing is at least not very hygienic.
Please note! If such a drain suits you, then do not buy a hose longer than 4 meters. If the hose is too long, not all of the water will drain out, but will remain in the tube, dissipating odors that are not too pleasant.
Now that you know all the schemes for connecting the machine to the sewer pipe, it remains only to choose the appropriate method and easily organize the drain. If you go the traditional way, do not skimp on components, and then your washing machine will thank you for years of flawless and trouble-free operation.
And the video will help you do everything right:
This article was written for those who are ready to connect the washing machine to the sewer with their own hands. This decision is certainly worthy of respect, but it has its own nuances. I will tell you about 3 options for implementing this simple task.
Preparation is the key to success
The drain connection is important, and we will talk about it in great detail, but first, I will briefly tell you how to install the washing machine.
Of course, each new unit has detailed instructions, I will not retell it, but only outline the most important, fundamental points:
- If the car was brought into the house from the cold, give it a couple of hours to warm up to room temperature. Modern electronics are quite moody and can malfunction;
- Any new unit of this size is equipped with all kinds of seals and supports. They are needed so as not to damage the equipment during transportation. In the washing machine, in addition to the cardboard box itself and the foam seal, there are often a few more supporting wooden bars at the bottom, such as a mini-pallet. So it needs to be completely removed;
- It does not matter whether you bought a front or vertical machine, the working tank in these units is, figuratively speaking, in a suspended state. And so that these suspensions do not break off during transportation, the tank is fixed with several re-bolts.
They must be unscrewed, otherwise the device will break down at the first start and the warranty will be invalid, since this moment is specified in the instructions. By the way, the instructions must contain a diagram with the locations of these bolts. The holes from the bolts are plugged with plugs that come with the kit;
- The socket must be, as they say now, of the European type, that is, with grounding;
- At the last stage of preliminary preparation, the legs are screwed in, and the apparatus is positioned clearly along the horizon. It is desirable to expose using a level.
Do not rush to throw away everything that you removed from the device during preparation. This is especially true for the re-bolts for fixing the working tank. After all, perhaps the time will come and you will need to transport it somewhere again.
Since we have to deal with plumbing work, then we need to prepare the necessary minimum of tools.
As a rule, any good owner always has this minimum somewhere in the pantry.
- You will definitely need pliers and a pair of high-quality screwdrivers, cross and straight;
- The above mentioned re-bolts, in different models of washing machines, may differ in the configuration of the heads. Therefore, if you do not have a complete set of keys, it is better to inquire about this moment in the store and immediately buy at least 1 of this key;
- If a capital drainage installation is planned, then it may be necessary to cut the sewer pipes to size. Professionals use a pipe cutter for this, but personally, when I encountered such a problem, I cut the pipes with a hacksaw for metal;
- Of course, all the parts come with gaskets and seals, but I always recommend that these seals be additionally coated with silicone sealant. You do not need to spend money on a large construction tube with a gun, a small tube is enough.
Drain connection options
Now in stores, for washing machines, you can buy drain hoses of different lengths. So I advise you not to buy a hose that is too long. The fact is that the pump that pumps the drains is optimally designed for the length of the hose that comes with the machine.
The relatively safe maximum is 3m. If you put the hose longer, the pump can quickly burn out.
Option number 1: for the lazy and in a hurry
For people completely far from plumbing, who are in a great hurry to connect the washing machine, there is the simplest way that does not require any financial and labor investments. Now all caring manufacturers complete their units with a semicircular nozzle on the drain hose.
You just need to take this nozzle, put it on the edge of the drain hose and simply throw this "hook" over the side of the sink, bathtub or toilet. But in the literal sense of the word a connection, this option cannot be called it rather an alternative way of draining.
In addition, it has a number of unpleasant disadvantages:
- With constant, active use of the machine, your snow-white plumbing will need to be washed often. After all, drains with washing powder eaten into acrylic or enamel pretty quickly;
- Small bathroom sinks may not be able to withstand high pressure and large amounts of drains. And while you, for example, watch TV, dirty water from the sink will pour out onto the floor;
- During draining and spinning, the pump works in jerks and it is possible that, due to these jolts, the light plastic hose will simply jump off the edge of the plumbing. Plus this hose can be helped by children or pets;
For those who currently use this drainage method, I can recommend tying a plastic nozzle on a hose to a faucet in a bathroom or sink with a chain. The attachment has a special hole for such attachment.
- Do not forget that while the wash is in progress, you will at least be very uncomfortable or even impossible to use the plumbing for its intended purpose;
- And then, it's just not pretty.
I think you are convinced that this simple and quick method is only suitable as a temporary option. For those who are used to doing everything conscientiously, I propose to consider the following two methods.
Option number 2: connection to a siphon
Connecting your washing machine to a siphon under the sink isn't much more difficult. To do this, you only need to buy a mixer with an outlet for such a drain and a small tightening metal clamp three-quarters of an inch. Moreover, now most mixers already come with such a pipe.
You will need to remove the cap from the branch pipe and lubricate it with silicone. Then pull the end of the drain hose onto the branch pipe, with a clamp on in advance and tighten the clamp with a screwdriver or pliers.
But there are a couple of drawbacks in this way of inserting, although they are not as radical as in the previous version:
- Firstly, when the water is drained, a loud gurgle will constantly be heard from the sink, and nothing can be done about it. You may not believe it, but from my own experience I know that there are people who are very annoyed by this;
- Secondly, it is desirable that the diameter of the drainage pipe is at least 50 mm. The fact is that in the kitchen, according to modern standards, it is allowed to install a drain with a diameter of 40 and even 30 mm. And with such a volume, when the water is discharged, your drains will rise, and after leaving, leave a dirty sediment at the bottom of the sink.
Option number 3: tie-in to the sewer
Connecting the drain of the washing machine to the sewer directly is considered almost the most correct solution. But with this option you have to tinker a little. If you or the person who installed the sewerage system in your house pre-installed a pipe with an extra branch under the drain for the machine, then everything is simple.
You need to buy a rubber O-ring and remove the plug from this branch. Then lubricate this ring with silicone and insert it into the sewer pipe. Further, the edge of the drain hose from the machine is inserted into the central hole of this O-ring, only you need to insert it to a depth of no more than 50 mm.
If there is no extra branch from the sewer pipe, then you will have to buy a plastic tee in which this branch is and install it yourself. Do not be alarmed, it is not scary.
As a rule, the sewer line that goes to the bathroom and kitchen has a diameter of 50 mm. Next, you will need to decide where exactly the tie-in will take place and replace the tee.
That is, you disconnect the siphon pipe, pull out the old pipe, change the rubber gasket and insert a new tee into the place of the old pipe. Naturally, after that, put the drain from the siphon in its place and, using the technology described above (through the rubber ring), cut the drain of the washing machine into the sewer.
Important little things to know
To begin with, the hose from the machine should not lie on the floor. On the back side in the upper corner of almost any machine there is a special ring or hook on which the hose should cling after leaving the unit. And from there, the drain is sent to the tie-in into the sewer.
The edge of the drain hose, no matter whether you hang it on the bathroom or embed it in the sewer in another way, should be at least half a meter from the floor level. This requirement is mandatory for all units that do not have a so-called check valve.
Many newer models are already equipped with this valve. For all other devices, you need to buy and install it separately. Don't worry, the price of this important detail, even for the most greedy merchants, does not exceed 100 rubles, and if you walk around the market, you can find it for 60 - 70 rubles.
Now there are several types of such valves. Personally, I prefer to take models with a locking ball. Below is a general diagram of such a mechanism.
Most often, these valves are used for direct tapping into the sewer pipe. But there are fixtures for mounting next to the siphon. Moreover, in this case it is absolutely not important at what level this tie-in occurs, here you can connect to the sewer pipe even at floor level.
I had a case when a friend bought a new washing machine. And he inserted the drain hose into the same place where the old machine was cut, that is, into the sewer outlet located under the bathroom.
The old device worked with this, but for the new one I had to buy a separate check valve. Otherwise, the water from the working tank immediately went into the sewer. Agree, it's easier to pay a maximum of 100 rubles for a valve and put it on in a few minutes than to make a separate new conclusion.
There is a common misconception that if you bend the drain hose of the washing machine in the form of the letter "S" and fix it like that, you can do without a check valve. Do not believe it, you will just make an extra water seal, it won't get any worse, but better too.
Output
I told you about options that are designed for different professional skills and financial capabilities. Now you have the right to decide for yourself what suits you best. In the photo and video in this article, this information is shown clearly. If you still have questions on the topic, write them in the comments, I will help as much as I can.
Correct connection of the washing machine drain. How to properly connect the washing machine yourself?
First, consider connecting the washing machine to communication systems. Connect the machine to the cold water supply and establish a drain for the waste water.
Quite often, in the design of washing machines, a restriction is set on the minimum and maximum height of the outlet. In order for the washing machine to drain the water, it is necessary to connect the water drain system to the sewerage system. Dalle consider connecting the washing machine drain ... Install an additional siphon or fix the branch pipe on the side of the bath or sink.
The fastening must be reliable in order to avoid flooding the apartment when the drain hose falls out.
It is believed that the most modern and convenient drainage options are nothing more than connecting the drain hose to the sewer. Please note that it is possible to increase the length of the drain hose, but it has its own length limit, dictated by the maximum power of the drain pump. You can find out the maximum length of the drain hose from the documentation that came with your washing machine.
The drain hose should be fastened to the back of the washing machine at a height of approximately 80 centimeters.
We fix the drain hose
We connect the other end of the hose to the sewer using a special siphon to avoid unpleasant odors and water from the sewer getting into the car. You can bend the end of the hose to create a water blockage effect, which also prevents odor and water from entering the machine.
Some masters recommend loose connection of the drain hose and the drain. 
One of the options for connecting the hose to the sewer.
The possible presence of an air gap will avoid the suction of water from the machine into the drain. This can cause the machine to freeze with certain wash programs. However, such a connection has a serious condition. The height of the air gap should be several centimeters higher than the level of water rise in the sink or bathroom in case of possible clogging of the sewer. Otherwise, there is a rather high probability of flooding the apartment when the drain through the air gap is clogged.
How to properly connect a washing machine
A new washing machine in the house, how nice, but without communication connected to it, this is just a beautiful curbstone. It is not difficult to connect the washing machine, but if everything is done incorrectly, you can easily get for repairs or, even worse, write off your purchase for scrap.
If the desire to save money has overcome the fear of losing the washing machine, read on. The very first thing, do not listen to the exhortation of the sellers that if they do not connect the washing machine, the warranty on the machine will be lost. This is a heinous lie. The warranty is canceled in the event that the washing machine was damaged as a result of incorrect connection, and if everything was done correctly, it does not matter who connected it. Let's go further.
The first thing to think about is electricity. If the home is not a new building, then a standard outlet may not be able to withstand high power consumption, so prepare the outlet in advance. Better a separate outlet from the shield. If there is an electric stove in the house, you can throw the wire away from it. For this, take a three-core cord with a section of 1-1.5 mm, the color and type of insulation to your taste. In new houses, the wires are made mostly conscientiously, so here you can be calm.
The second part is plumbing. Water is an insidious thing and here you have to be extremely careful in the choice of materials. Do not save here - you will regret later. It is best to get taps and hoses from trusted stores. Large construction supermarkets are the most it. They are less likely to run into a marriage. 
Do not connect the tap by drilling a hole in the pipe and then crimping it with a special tap-coupling. In practice, such a tap clogs up quickly. Better to put a classic drain valve. The inlet hose should not be very soft. Choose the length of the hose with a margin of 1-1.5 meters, so that in case of repairing the washing machine, without disconnecting the hoses, the washing machine can be pulled out without difficulty. The same goes for the drain hose.
So we smoothly moved on to the drain part. There are two options: connect the washing machine to a siphon or directly to the sewer. Another ambush awaits you here. The siphon is insidious in that if the hose is thrown across the floor, then water can be poured into the washing machine through the drain hose. Therefore, be sure to run the drain hose along the top so that its highest point is higher than the water in the sink to which the washing machine is connected.
If the drain hose is connected to the sewer, then be sure to build the pipe in the vertical direction to a height of 50-60 cm. Otherwise, the water from the machine will go by gravity into the sewer.
If you follow these rules, your washing machine will not soon require you to repair it.
Correct installation of the washing machine
It is very important from the very first days to correctly connect the washing machine to the water supply and electricity. Violation of the installation rules can lead to serious consequences, both for you and for your new "assistant" - a washing machine.
1. Dismantling the packaging and transport units
After you have brought your washing machine to your home, inspect the packaging to make sure it has not been damaged. Then remove the packaging (cardboard, foam, polyethylene) from all parts of the washing machine. Install the unit in the desired location (bathroom or kitchen). When doing this, take into account the length of the water intake and drainage hose and the length of the power cord. If the standard hoses are too short, you will need to purchase longer hoses for your washing machine from your nearest store.
Now you can remove the transport parts that secure the tank and the rotating elements of the washing machine. those. protect the machine during transportation.
These parts are usually bolts (most often there are three), brackets and bars. Make sure all fasteners are removed as turning on the washing machine with the transport units not removed will lead to a quick failure of the washing machine and without the possibility of warranty repair. The holes from which the bolts were removed must be sealed with the supplied plastic inserts.
Brackets provide additional rigidity during transportation, fix the power cord, drain hose.
Sometimes additional fixing shipping bars are laid between the body and the tank. To dismantle the blocks, tilt the washing machine forward and pull them out.
We recommend that you keep all transport details as with a possible move, you may need them. 
2. Connecting the washing machine to the sewer
As already mentioned, washing machines are supplied with a hose of a certain length. The standard distance from the washing machine to the drain is 3 m, only for some washing machines this distance is 5 m. Manufacturers of washing machines always determine the possible load on the pump (drain pump) in their washing machines, and in accordance with this form the installation rules. With an increased distance, the load on the pump will be greater than calculated, and this can lead to damage in the future. The fastening of the drain hose must be secure enough to prevent the hose from falling to the floor and flooding the apartment when the water is drained.
When the drain system is permanently connected to the sewage system, in order to avoid the unpleasant smell from the sewer from entering the washing machine, you should install a special siphon or bend the end of the hose so that a water blockage is created. It is important to note that this method of connection is NOT RECOMMENDED for houses with worn-out sewer pipes, because they contain a large number of blockages, which can lead to the release of drained water outside (on the bathroom floor).
3. Connecting the washing machine to the water supply
The permanent connection of the washing machine is made with a specially supplied flexible hose with a 3/4 inch connection diameter. The hose can be extended to the required length. The connections are sealed with a rubber gasket.
In addition, it is desirable to provide a water shut-off upon completion of use of the washing machine. For this, an additional valve is installed, which is closed at the end of the wash. It is recommended to give preference to more expensive models of cranes, with a good margin of safety and tight connections.
Adjusting the feet of the washing machine is also important.
The washing machine must be stable, without distortion. The floor under the machine must not be slippery. A machine that is not intended for a built-in installation in furniture cannot be placed inside the furniture, otherwise the vibration during spinning will destroy this furniture.
The washing machine is equipped with height-adjustable front feet for correct installation.
4. Connecting the washing machine to the mains
Your safety when using your washing machine is paramount. To ensure safety, it is necessary to bring a zero or grounding bus with a cross section of at least 3 mm from the switchboard. and the socket will have to be replaced with a three-wire one.
The grounding wire must be insulated; it is strictly forbidden to connect it to heating batteries, water supply systems, gas supply systems.
A separate three-wire cable from the meter is required for the correct connection of the washing machine. In this case, the electric meter must be designed for a rated current of 15 ... 30 A. A separate automatic machine can be installed on this cable. It is recommended to run the cable with an external wiring diagram in plastic channels (plastic profiles). It is reliable and aesthetically pleasing.
If, nevertheless, you feel doubts about the correctness of your actions, it is better to contact the appropriate specialist.
The washing machine does not heat the water
Temperature is one of the most important components in the operation of a washing machine. If the washing machine does not heat the water, then it will not be able to wash the laundry in the right way. Therefore, the presence of temperature must be monitored. So, what are the symptoms and how is it possible to return the missing function to the washing machine. 
The main mistake of many users who call us is tactile sensations at the end of the wash. Considering that rinsing takes place in cold water, it is easy to guess what the temperature of the laundry will be. So such diagnostics are immediately discarded. But if, during the entire wash, especially the first thirty minutes, the washing machine was unable to heat the water, at least to room temperature, then it’s time to be alert.
Sometimes the washing machine is simply not able to do this, as it is incorrectly connected. This topic was discussed in the article "How to connect the washing machine correctly". In short, the machine involuntarily, without the help of a pump, pours the freshly poured water into the sewer and so on ad infinitum. Of course, the water just isn't able to heat up.
Another possibility to fix the problem is to take a close look at the temperature controller. Sometimes the regulator is accidentally set to zero, and as a result, the washing machine does not heat the water, because it follows your instructions.
The last symptom is the most common. The washing machine, having worked the first 10-15 minutes, stops and remains in this state until the owners wake up. In 99% of cases, the heating element or in other words the heating element is to blame. Here, most likely, you will have to contact a washing machine repair company. You cannot do without replacing it.
How to properly connect the washing machine yourself?
Installing and connecting a washing machine yourself is not very difficult for someone who knows how to work with an electrical panel, wires and plumbing hoses.
(I am writing this post for retail buyers of craftsmen and for sellers of washing machines, because only that seller inspires confidence in the buyer in his stories when selling, who is a real practitioner, a master, and not a glamorous theorist.)
To get started, in addition to the washing machine, buy:
1) a socket with a grounding of more than 16 amperes, preferably rubberized from dampness;
2) a piece of a three-core cable with a cross section of about 4 mm2 (by eye - with a pencil thick) and such a length. how far is the current and ground source from your washing machine - more precisely from its personal outlet. Such a source can be an electric stove outlet, if you have one in your house, or an electrical distribution box on the ground on the floor;
In no case do not save on cables and grounding - they will protect your health and life.
3) Buy a tap on the toilet cistern to connect the washing machine - sellers in the markets know. what it is;
4) buy a longer inlet hose than the one that was sold to you in the kit (take into account the distance from the toilet bowl to the washing machine. Buy a high-quality hose - do not save, otherwise you will later repair the neighbor's apartment below and remember your wrong savings.
5) And also buy in advance a new, well-braided inlet hose for the toilet bowl. They are often 40 years old already. (Usually, when they put the washer, the old hose is torn and broken).
6) Buy a packet switch plug from 25 amperes, through which you separately power the washing machine and if you have old wiring, buy an RCD (this is the same packet plug - a switch on the current line in a wet room, but it protects not the device, but the person - if the current goes away somewhere in the wiring and can hit - then this RCD will turn off);
7) purchase an additional drain hose and an adapter for it, as long as your washing machine with its short drain hose is located from the dirty water drain point - that is, from the bathroom, if you drain "dirty" over the edge or from the sink siphon,
8) which is also a good idea to buy for a clean and quiet drain - such a new three-arm siphon for connecting a drain from a washing machine ..
They brought your washing machine home - what should you do next to install it and start washing?
1) Measure the voids on the sides of the washing machine - will the washing machine hit adjacent objects and furniture during spinning and make a gap of at least 1 cm. 
2) See if it will be convenient to open the hatch and load linen (both on the front and on the vertical).
3) Remove the shipping bolts and shipping brackets (if any). Keep these items if re-shipment is possible.
4) Align the washer on the building bubble level so that it does not hit during spinning. Place the washer only on a solid, non-swaying floor. Align it by twisting the legs.
5) Bring electricity and grounding through a previously purchased cable, a bag and an outlet from the shield from the site in a house with gas stoves or from an electric stove outlet. Find out in advance in Zhek whether there is grounding on the shield in the house. You can protect yourself from electric shock in a van with old wiring by installing an RCD on the wiring line. An RCD is a device similar to a pouch plug that turns off the power supply to the device if the current goes into water or objects in a damp room.
6) Connect the washer to the water through the inlet hose and the tap to the toilet cistern - at the entrance to it of his own inlet hose.
7) Connect the washing machine to a new triple drain siphon, which you screw to the sink through a hose (or put the drain through the "goose" on the edge of the bathroom.
Be sure to fix the beginning of the drain hose in the upper eyelet on the back of the machine - otherwise it will fill and immediately drain water.
8) Open the water tap to fill the washing machine (after washing, have the habit of closing it, and when you leave the house, be sure). Many people forget to do this - then the hose will collapse, burst and the neighbors are all flooded below. Or buy a water stop hose in advance, but this is not a cheap pleasure.
9) Fill in the laundry, add the powder (be sure the powder is automatic - on the box or package it says AUTOMATIC and the machine is drawn) select the program and turn on the washing machine. If the washing machine hits hard, knocks and jumps, then you have not turned out all the transport bolts or you have little or a lot of underwear. Check the washer for tilt. Check if everything is connected correctly?
When installed correctly, the washing machine should run smoothly and not very loudly and not in any way bang the drum.
This whole setup is only available to experienced craftsmen. My advice to you, if you are not very qualified, then it is better to call the installation wizard. It costs not very much and is expensive, but it will be made faster and more reliably.
Washing machine electric shock
Everyone knows that a washing machine is a device of increased danger and we often find out about this when we have been well shocked with an electric current. On the one hand, touching the washing machine during operation is undesirable.
If the washing machine is in your bathroom when it is running, you definitely cannot swim. So the eternal question arises: “What to do?”. I understand perfectly well that our articles help people who, for a number of reasons, cannot call the wizard, and therefore in this case, here are some recommendations. 
The washing machine gives an electric shock when an appliance that is grounded to the chassis fails. If your washing machine begins to be shocked, first of all it is worth checking the following devices:
engine,
heater (heating element),
network filter,
pump (rare),
command apparatus (rare).
Checking for a leak is also quite simple. Arm yourself with a tester, turn it on for continuity. Remove all connectors from the device that you want to check and put one end of the tester on the ground (where the yellow-green wire stood), and with the second, ring all the contacts on the device in turn. If at least one of them showed resistance, then it is because of this device that the car is beating with current. The device must be changed or removed, such as a mains filter.
How to arrange proper care and maintenance of your washing machine?
Do not place heavy objects or stand on the washing machine.
Do not lean on or lean anything against the loading door.
It is not recommended to let children use the washing machine on their own. 
Pets must not be left unattended near the washing machine.
It is not recommended to open the detergent drawer during washing. This can lead to overflow of water.
It is recommended to leave the loading door open after each wash to avoid moisture build-up.
It is recommended to close the water supply valve to the machine after each wash.
Do not turn the program selector counterclockwise!
Do not reset the washing program after the machine has started washing. This can knock down the automatics of the machine and cause damage.
The body and parts of the washing machine must be periodically wiped off with a cloth dampened with a solution of detergent.
Do not wash the washing machine with a spray bottle or running water.
Do not use chemical solvents or abrasive cleaning powders for cleaning.
Before washing the washing machine, you must unplug it from the mains.
The container for the detergent is removed from the machine and washed under a stream of warm water.
If limescale deposits have formed (due to incorrect dosage of detergent, heavily soiled water, etc.), you can clean the washing machine with a descaling agent. In this case, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for the used product, since such products contain acids. If the washing machine is not properly treated after cleaning, acid residues deposited on the machine parts can cause discoloration of the laundry and even damage the machine parts.
We recommend using chlorine-free cleaning agents to remove rust stains from metal objects trapped in the drum.
The condition of the hose should be checked once a year. If there are any signs of damage, the hose must be replaced. The hose is under great pressure when the washing machine is in operation and may burst if damaged.
After washing fluffy items, clean the drain pump filter.
Before cleaning, make sure that the wash is complete and disconnect the machine from the power supply.
When removing the filter, a small amount of water may appear, therefore a container for collecting water must be prepared in advance.
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The inlet hose is the product on which your peace of mind and the safety of repairs in the apartment of the neighbors below depend. The fact is that the inlet hose sold with the washing machine does not always have a suitable length. It may have a poorly compressed compression sleeve, and the reinforcing film made of polyester threads may have breaks. The upper layers of poor quality PVC can burst at any time and cause a water spill. In this regard, the inlet hose for the washing machine must meet a number of stringent requirements so as not to let the consumer down.
Types of inlet hoses
The inlet hose for the washing machine is polyvinyl chloride tube, reinforced with nylon braid with nuts and fittings, one side of which is connected to the water supply system of a private house or apartment, and the other to the washing machine. Nuts and fittings are made of plastic and must be tightened by hand or they may crack. At the junction of the fitting with the pipe, a quality inlet hose is installed metal pressed sleeves. Each product is labeled with numbers indicating working pressure and temperature. Standard inlet hose withstands pressure at 4 Bars.To prevent the hose from expanding under the pressure of water, its base is wrapped in several layers of reinforced threads. Inlet hoses for washing machines are:
- with a fixed length of 1-5 m;
- in the bay (length up to 10 m);
- telescopic hoses, which increase in length due to corrugation;
- hoses with the Aqua-stop system that protect the washing machine from leaks;
About the system Aqua stopmust be told separately. The fact is that during the supply of water to the washing machine, a lot of pressure acts on the hose, so it may not withstand and burstflooding neighbors and ruining property in the apartment. Aqua system - stop won't let this happen. It is a pressure-resistant double inlet hose up to 70 Bar, with a knob filled with a special powder or equipped with a solenoid valve.
If the hose breaks unexpectedly, water begins to flow into the knob. The powder expands, thus shutting off the water supply from the tap. Or the valve is triggered and blocks the flow of water. The valve control sensors are safely hidden under the outer sheath of the flexible hose. The jacket envelops the entire hose up to its end inside the washing machine. Even if the hose breaks at the very exit, the water will still not flow out, but will collect in a special palletlocated at the bottom of the washing machine. The sump is equipped with a sensitive float, which rises when water appears and closes the contacts of the microswitch. In addition, the valve is triggered when the working tank is overfilled, the machine pipeline is damaged, or foam crawls due to an overdose of washing powder. outside the working tank out.
In some models, the Aqua-stop system is equipped with emergency pump,which begins to pump out water in case of failure of the emergency valve. It should be said that the inlet hose with the Aqua-stop system operates only once in the event of an accident. Once the system has operated, the hose cannot be reused and must be disposed of. However, maybe this particular case will help you avoid flooding and large property damageyourself and your neighbors. The inlet hose with the Aqua-stop system is sold in the same department as household appliances. Each self-respecting brand produces, in addition to ordinary hoses, hoses with the Aqua-stop system for its washing machines. With such a hose, you can not be afraid that flooding will occur in your absence.
Inlet hose specifications
| Manufacturing firm | Specifications | Manufacturer country | Length | Price |
| Uglich Polymer Plant |
|
Russia | 3m | 66 rubles |
| Cotali UDI-BLACK |
|
Italy | 2 m | 358 rubles |
| Electrolux |
|
Sweden | 1.5 m | 806 rubles |
| Reflex |
|
Italy | 1.5 m | 165 rubles |
| SCANPART 11.200.901.23 |
|
Germany | 2.5 m | 599 rubles |
| CODO |
|
Russia | 1.5 m | 155 rubles |
How to connect the water inlet hose to the washing machine?
There is only one limitation regarding the length of the inlet hose: that the total total length from the hose to the drain did not exceed 15 meters. This means that the maximum length of the inlet hose should not exceed 3 m. Otherwise, the load on the drain pump will be too great and it may break. The inlet hose has a standard ¾ ”thread and connects to the stopcock. The liner to the plastic water pipes is cut easily and easily. In new houses and during capital repairs, the place for installing a tap for a washing machine is planned in advance.
If the house has not been overhauled, and the water pipes are not designed to connect the washing machine, then in this case the inlet hose is installed in front of the bathroom mixeror screwed onto the float valve of the drain tank. For this:
- unscrew the flexible water supply hose from the float valve;
- wound on the inlet-tap;
- a flexible hose is attached to it.
To seal the float valve outlet thread, wrap FUM tape.If the inlet hose is attached to the mixer, the mixer itself is removed, and a tap for connecting to the washing machine is screwed onto the eccentric with cold water, and a coupling is screwed onto the eccentric with hot water. On top of this, the mixer itself is installed. Of course, this is not the best option, but you never know, it will also come in handy. There is even special taps for connection to float valvestoilet cisterns, as well as wall-mounted mixers.
The drain hose as well as the inlet hose are included. It serves to drain the water used during washing into the sewer. However, the length of the hose offered to the washing machine does not always allow you to reach the drain point, therefore, drain hoses are in no less demand among consumers than inlet hoses. They have nozzles at both ends, and such a hose can be stretched in length. Nozzles provide tight connectionat the junction. The drain hoses have no technical data and are only designed for the natural discharge head. The material for their manufacture is rubber, which, under the influence of hot water and detergents and bleaches, cracks and bursts, despite being reinforced with a wire spiral.
How to connect the drain hose?
The drain hose is attached to the edge of an acrylic tub or sink with a plastic guide. You can use a sink siphon as a drain, or buy special double siphonwith an additional outlet for the drain hose of the washing machine. If you do not have enough hose length to drain the water, then this situation can be easily corrected. You need to purchase a plastic extension, another drain hose and two clamps. The hose coming out of the washing machine is inserted into the plastic extension and the second hose is inserted from the other side of the extension. Both hoses are secured with hose clamps. Everything, the extended hose can be connected to the sewer.
Replacing the drain hose is easier than the inlet hose. This is due to the fact that in order to get to the base of the drain hose, you need to disassemble the washing machine a little and get inside it. Some brands of washing machines have a drain hose attached at the top of the case, and some at the bottom. To find out what the connection is in your washing machine, you need to remove the cover of the washing machine. Although some brands, for example, AEG, Siemens and Bosch, need take away the front of the case .
However, let's focus on replacing the drain hose through the back of the case, as is done by the brands Indesit, Ariston, LG, Candy, Ardo, Beko, Samsung, Whirpool. On these models, the drain hose is located at the bottom of the rear housing cover. After removing the panel (this is done easily):
Replacing the drain hose is completely different in models where the hose is located on the front panel.
We get dispenser container.Then we remove the basement panel, loosen the clamp that secures the door cuff, and detach the cuff from the door wall. Then the filter of the drain pump is removed (you also need to prepare a rag and a bucket beforehand). After the residual water flows out, it is removed front endpanels. To do this, self-tapping screws are twisted with a screwdriver. The bottom of the panel wall must be moved towards itself until a gap of 5 cm is formed.We put our hand there, and look for hatch blocking device. Unfasten the connector with wires from it. After that we pull the panel towards ourselves and remove it.
Before us opened access to the drain hose. The fixing elements are removed from it, and the hose is disconnected from the pump. Remember the location of the hose and fittings. Disconnect and take out the hose. We connect a new hose, fix it and assemble the machine, having previously checked the tightness of the hose connection to the pump.
Top-loading washing machines have a drain hose on the side. To replace it, you need to do all the steps that were described in the previous cases, only the side panel is removed, not the rear or front panel.
Drain hoses for washing machines
| Manufacturing firm | Specifications | Manufacturer country | Length | Price |
| Uglich Polymer Plant |
|
Russia | 3m | 77 rubles |
| Orio |
|
Russia | 3.6 m | 60 rubles |
| Helfer |
|
Germany | 2,5 | 190 rubles |
| VIR Plast |
|
Russia | 4 m | 71 rubles |
| TSG |
|
Italy | 2 m | 110 rubles |
Video of connecting hoses to the washing machine
Before buying a new washing machine, we always carefully select the place where it will stand. But after the machine is installed and you need to correctly connect the washing machine to the sewer and water supply, it may turn out that the hoses are short. Today we will talk about what to do in a situation if the drain hose is short. How to lengthen the drain hose in the washing machine in this situation? In fact, everything is simple and you should not worry, because you can do it yourself, without disassembling the washing machine.
Drain hose extension for washing machine
Washing machine manufacturers use standard drain hoses about 1.5 meters long on their products. In most cases, this is enough, and if you correctly plan the sewage supply to the washing machine or install a hidden siphon for the washing machine, then there should be no problems with the length of the standard hose. But it often happens that the hose is too short, or the sewer pipe is too far away and the standard length is not enough. What to do in such a situation?
In order to make the drain hose longer, there are two ways that are difficult to implement:
Method one: you can buy a longer one-piece hose and replace it entirely. But in this case, you will need to tinker a little and unscrew some parts of the washing machine. In some models of washing machines, this is easier to do, in some it is even necessary to remove the front wall. Therefore, this option for lengthening the drain hose is not very convenient and will not work for many. And why bother, if you can make everything much easier.
Method two: You can simply buy an extra washing machine hose and connector from the store. How to lengthen the drain. We will consider this method in more detail.
Choosing the length of the drain hose
You can buy a drain hose for a washing machine at almost any plumbing store or home appliance store. To do this, first measure the missing length of the new hose. To do this, take a tape measure and figure out how the hose will go from the machine to the sewer itself. Measure so that the tape is free. The hose should not be tightly connected, so leave some margin.
In the store you can find drain hoses of various lengths: 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m, 3.5m, 4m, 5m and even a modular drain hose.
A modular hose is a large coil of hose that is divided into 0.5 meter modules. You can order any required length, divisible by 0.5 meters, and the seller will simply unwind the required length and cut it off.
In our case, the best option would be to buy a hose with a fixed length, since it is much easier to find it in a store.
Attention: You shouldn't try to buy the longest possible hose. The drain pump needs much more effort to pump water over a longer distance. In general, you should not make a drain hose with a total length of more than 3.5 meters.
Once we have decided on the length of the hose, we need a special connector that will allow the two ends of the drain hoses to join. It is a small plastic tube on which both ends of the hose are put on and tightened with clamps.
Washing machine drain hose clamps can be purchased at any auto parts store. The dimensions of the clamps should be 16x27mm. I would like to separately note that the ends of one drain hose come in two different diameters. Some are 19 mm in diameter, the other 22 mm. It is common to connect the thin end from the washing machine to the thicker end of the extension hose using connectors with 19 x 22mm cut end diameters. But if you connect the ends of hoses with the same diameter, then there is also a connector 22x22mm.
You can make the connector from any plastic tube of the appropriate diameter. It will serve in the same way as a purchased one. Do not forget to just secure it with a clamp.
Extend the drain hose
Let's check again if we have everything to make the drain of the washing machine longer:
- Extension hose
- Connector
- Clamps
- Screwdriver
If we have all this in stock, then let's get to work. To begin with, put clamps on both hoses, then insert the end of the hose coming from the washing machine into the connector. After that we insert another hose into the other end of the connector.
Now tighten the clamp with a screwdriver, do not overdo it. Simply fix the hose to prevent it from sliding off the connector.
After you have lengthened the drain hose, you can connect it to the drain and start a test wash.
When draining the washing machine, make sure that there are no leaks at the connection. But we are sure that everything worked out well for you and nothing will flow. Recall that clogging of the drain system will entail
