Wooden doors made of boards are affordable DIY methods. How to make a door with your own hands: making and installing interior linens and wooden boxes How to make massive entrance doors

Wooden entrance door to a private house, photo

A wooden entrance door can be made by anyone with the right hands. Doors are one of the main elements for the interiors of most buildings.

They have certain functions: protection from unwanted visitors, heat preservation, protection from unnecessary noise, etc. Such structures are now more and more often made of metal, but the internal ones are almost always wooden.

Let's dwell on the manufacturing process itself.

Briefly what will be discussed:

Dowels
Paneled
Blocks
Mount for blocks
Platbands
Pins
Installation of hinges
Types of loops
Clearances
Regulation
Locks

Dowels

how to do

The main structural elements for doors are boards that form a panel, two dowels and a brace. It is located diagonally and serves to prevent distortion.

Usually, the slope and dowels are knocked out on the panel. For this, bars are used. In more difficult cases, the dowels are cut directly into the boards. For these purposes, the dowels are made according to the dimensions as shown in the figure.

The cuts are made with circular electric saws, exposing them at the desired incline (about 60 degrees).

Paneled

The outer side can be either simple or embossed. The corners of the platbands form a "mustache" at 45 degrees. In the beginning, the vertical platbands are sawn and set at the level.

Then a platband (horizontal) is substituted under their upper part. The angle is marked with a pencil on one side, sawed off. Then it is also done with a different angle.

Do-it-yourself wooden entrance doors are installed by fastening the platbands with finishing nails or self-tapping screws.

Pins

The most common defects are warpage due to dry material. If there are pins, then in case of warping, it will not crumble. The absence of pins is unacceptable.

Hinges

When making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you cannot do without hinges. Loops are more than 20 types (see). The height of the hinges can vary from 30 to 40 cm.For home doors, 75-150 cm is enough.

The most common are semi-hinged removable, consisting of two cards (one with a rod, the other without). Sometimes hinged hinges are used. Hinges can be left and right, as well as universal.

Clearances

Before installing the hinges, the panel is placed so that there is no gap between the opening and it along the line of the hinges. To do this, use scraps of hardboard or identical strips, placing them so as to have a uniform gap.

The hinges are cut at a distance equal to their height, measured from the inner corner of the frame. If there are thorns in that place, you need to step back 1 cm from them.

After installing the spacers, measuring the distance at which the loops will be located, the cards are outlined with a pencil along the contour. The hinge slots are selected with a chisel based on the depth of the thickness. The surface of the hinges must be flush with the door leaf, as well as with the pillar bar.

Helpful advice! The door hinges are attached with self-tapping screws. If colored screws are used, then you need to know that they are fragile. Black wood screws are better hardened, more durable.

Door adjustment

If they start to close loosely or with a creak over time, they need to be adjusted. Adjustment (see) is the lubrication of the loops, tightening the screws, replacing them with longer ones, installing the wedges in the holes (if they are loose).

Lubricants are thick and hard consistencies: pieces of a graphite rod, grease, lubricants. After removing or as a result of lifting it, you need to push the grease into the loop hole in a certain amount. If after a while the grease begins to stand out from the hinges, it means that too much of it was put.

Sometimes they sag strongly, clinging to the floorboards. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to place washers of a certain thickness of the inner and outer diameters between the hinge cards.

You can also rearrange the hinges higher, or scribble the lower end of the door leaf. It is necessary to shave sparingly in order to maintain a minimum gap with the permissible room humidity.

When making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that if gaps have formed between the panels of the panel, they need to be glued and putty, or sorted out, or closed with planks.

Helpful advice! To avoid hitting the door with a canvas or a handle against the wall when opening, a buffer (stop) must be fixed to the floor. The further away from the hinges, the better.

About door locks

It is better if there is no castle, but there is. If fitted correctly, the handle should be sufficient to close the door with good tightness. If the door opens a little, a leather heel is stuffed on it.

The heel is stuffed with the required thickness on the panel closer to the handle, or on the upper end. The handle must be attached to the harness, but not to the paneled board, since this will be stronger. When installing the handle, it is taken away from the opening so as not to injure the hand.

Locks are installed on the outer doors. The most commonly used padlocks with the presence of loop-ears, as well as overhead and mortise. Hanging is the easiest option, but they are less reliable.

Chains, door closers, latches, bolts, eyes and other elements can also be installed on external doors.

Assembling a wooden door with your own hands

Choice of door material

Before making a wooden door with your own hands, you need to choose the material. For these purposes, it is best to use wood species that are durable, but at the same time are easily processed. These include:

type of wood	Peculiarities
Pine	Among the advantages are such points as: Low price; Ease of processing; Low weight; Resistant to moisture. The only thing to note is that pine can dry out over time, so it is not always appropriate.
Alder	It is also characterized by ease of processing and low weight. The only thing is that alder must be carefully treated with antiseptic compounds, since it is highly susceptible to decay.
Birch	Hard enough and dense wood with a beautiful texture.
Oak	It is a very strong and durable wood, but difficult to work with. In addition, oak is quite expensive.
Beech	Strong and durable rock, resistant to mechanical stress. The only thing, when making beech doors, should be borne in mind that this wood is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it requires special handling.
Larch	It is a strong and durable material that is resistant to moisture. The only drawback of larch is its rather high cost.
Maple	It has good strength and is easy to process. Other advantages of maple include moisture resistance.

Note!
If you want to make wooden doors to the bathhouse with your own hands, then it is better to use linden, since when heated, this wood does not emit resin.

I must say that special impregnations allow changing certain qualities of wood.

Therefore, the main selection criteria are usually:

The first step is to cut a sheet of fiberboard, which should fit the size of the door frame.
Around the perimeter, the sheet is sheathed with boards... If a router is available, profiles should be made to connect the boards to each other according to the tenon / groove principle. You can attach the boards to the chipboard with self-tapping screws and wood glue.
Then stiffeners are mounted in the center in the same way..
Further, the product is sheathed on both sides with plywood and veneer as a topcoat.

There is another technology for manufacturing a panel structure, which uses a heater. For its manufacture, you will need boards 25 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide, as well as plywood sheets.

Insulated door manufacturing

So, a warm wooden door with your own hands is made in the following sequence:

First, you need to make a frame from the boards, which is a frame and crossbars in the middle. Braces can also be used to provide greater rigidity.
Further, plywood is attached to the frame on one side.
Then a heat insulator is placed in the frame, and the product on the other side is sheathed with sheet material.

The paneled structure is much more complex in execution, since it consists of many parts. Therefore, it is better to take on its manufacture after gaining experience in the manufacture of simpler products. However, after the manufacture of all the elements, the paneled door is assembled as a constructor, without any difficulties.

Paneled door design scheme

By design, it resembles a window frame, since it consists of a frame (strapping) and panels that fill the space of the frame.

Advice!
Since the door is a collapsible structure, when any of its parts becomes unusable, you can repair wooden doors with your own hands, replacing the damaged element with a new one.

So, the manufacturing process is as follows:

Mounting

Measurements. Before buying products, measure the width and height of the opening (see). If there is no finishing floor covering, add the planned height to the calculations.
... Having laid out the details of the box on the floor, look at the presence of everything you need. Measure again. Don't forget, one mistake and the job will go down the drain. Glue the parts in the corners, securing them with self-tapping screws.
Foaming. Place the box in the opening. Secure the frame with wedges at the corners and center. Check the installed frame with a level. Install rigid spacers opposite the wedges. Then fill the spaces between the wall and the box with foam.
Mounting. Wait until the foam dries, after 12 hours you need to remove its protruding pieces. Then remove the wedges, remove the spacers. Now it's the turn of the platbands. Saw down the required length at an angle of forty-five degrees, drill the holes for the nails. Attach the platband to the opening, fix it with finishing nails. The door can be hinged.
Pens... After completing all the work, it remains to screw the handles. better in advance.

Doors are made of boards, furniture boards or beams according to previously prepared drawings. To understand what and how wooden doors are made, let's get acquainted with their varieties.

Door types by design

The solid wood box has the following advantages:

At the same time, the wooden canvas has the following features:

raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
the presence of cracks and knots;
flammability.

To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnated.

Massive doors

Before making wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the specifics of the production process. The dacha can be protected from robbers with a massive canvas, for the manufacture of which thick grooved or planed boards are used. The resulting structure is reinforced with horizontal or inclined bridges.

For the manufacture of a massive door, wood of a dense structure is used.

For the manufacture of a massive entrance door, cedar, larch or oak are used. Such wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.

If the project of the suburban area includes a bath, then linden, pine is used to arrange the opening. The bathhouse should be operated after the wood has been treated with an antiseptic.

Paneled doors

For the manufacture of paneled canvases, boards and beams are used, obtained by gluing lamellas. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before building the canvas, a drawing is being prepared. The configuration of the panels is indicated on it. It can be the same or different. Glass can be used instead of wooden elements.

Paneled doors are most often installed indoors.

To equip vertical and transverse elements, you will need to glue the timber. For the manufacture of the canvas, a floorboard of the appropriate thickness is used. Spikes are used to fix individual elements.

Door assembly diagram

If a panel is used to make a canvas, you need to consider:

the reliability of the product is directly influenced by the number of cross-sections;
a homemade box is formed from a bar, and a rail or plastic is used to make a panel;
glazing bead is used to fix the panels.

Since the paneled door has a small thickness, it is considered the best option to equip an interior doorway.

Panel doors

The panel box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. Sheets of fiberboard, MDF or chipboard are used as a shield.

Panel door construction

The canvases in question are classified into the following types:

solid - filled with bars fastened together;
hollow - made of lateral and transverse beams. For cladding, lining is used;
small-hollow - have a different filling.

To create a high-quality canvas on your own, the frame is pre-covered with plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. The size of 1 layer is 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating.

Tools for the job

Of the tools you will need:

to create grooves and holes, you need a router;
hacksaw;
to grind the ends of the doors, you need a plane;
chisels;
hammer;
screwdriver.

Standard set of tools for making a door

To assemble the doors, you will need the following materials:

tongue-and-groove boards;
self-tapping screws;
glue.

The purchased wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Lumber selection

Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan for the upcoming work is drawn up. Particular attention is paid to the choice of boards. In this case, the following criteria are taken into account:

financial opportunities;
purchase of commercial timber;
residual moisture - 15%;
checking the evenness of the material;
the thickness of the boards is 25-50 mm;
the array is sanded.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Any step-by-step plan for the manufacture of a door involves the assembly of a shield. If the installation of the canvas in the bath is envisaged, then a simple assembly of the shield is carried out. To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. A warm box for the home is made with aesthetics in mind. The assembled shield is polished.

Making a door from solid wood

The step-by-step plan for assembling the blade includes the correct choice of consumables. To make a shield, tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm are required. Then the consumable is cut into pieces.

Grooved boards must be flat and without grooves on the front sides

When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. The tongue-and-groove lock and wood glue are used to connect the grooved boards. If the consumable is non-grooved boards, then they are collected with glue.

Work is carried out on a large surface area. The assembled coating is tightened with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is processed with a milling cutter. In order to have good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble a shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.

Traditional methods of bandaging boards in solid wood doors

For strapping, cross-members are used, installed at the top, in the middle and at the bottom of the cover. The grooves are marked on the canvas. The grooves to be made should be ½ of the thickness of the consumable.

Assembly diagram

Holes are cut with a router. It is more difficult to cut the grooves by hand. This will require a chisel. Use a rubber mallet to insert the cross member. If it is planned to apply a drawing to the resulting shield, its outline is preliminarily drawn with a pencil according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.

Cutouts are milled according to a previously drawn pencil drawing

Then the canvas is painted with pretreatment with an antiseptic. On the canvas and the box, markings are made for mounting the hinges. The markings for the handle and lock are made in the same way. The last stage is the canopy of the canvas into the opening.

Antiseptic and varnish treatment

Panel door manufacturing

The instruction for the manufacture of the thyroid sheet allows the use of finely filled boards. Experts identify 3 assembly methods for such a design:

preliminary assembly of the frame with subsequent filling of its internal space. With the help of this technology, you can create a solid or shallow shield;
separate production of the shield with its subsequent fixation in the frame. The last stage is covering with finishing material;
the manufactured shield is mounted in a frame and revetted.

To assemble the canvas according to the first method, the primary strapping is carried out. She will determine the size of the future door. For the construction, a bar with a section of 30 × 120 mm is used. The consumable is cut taking into account the dimensions of the future structure.

The next step is to select the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the "half-tree" method. Accurate marking of future grooves is an important stage in the assembly of the shield.

Connection diagram of the frame elements

All grooves are coated with glue. The connection of the timber is carried out on a flat but large area. If the glue is dry, the joints are fixed with pins. For this, through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are made..

For cladding the frame, plywood or fiberboard is used. Marking is performed, the frame is removed. The frame returns to its original place. It must be pressed against the facing material treated with glue.

For cladding, plywood or fiberboard is used

To fill the interior space, MDF is used. It is glued to the bottom sheet of finishing material. But first, the glue must dry well. In parallel, it is recommended to prepare a consumable for the outer facing of the canvas.

Internal filling gives rigidity to the canvas

If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or SHF. The resulting structure is sent to the press.

You can trim the door with natural wood slats. They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface is dry, sand it with sandpaper. All corners and ends are milled. In the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in a matching box.

A frame door is made using a similar technique - the inner space is additionally reinforced with beams. But before starting work, accurate calculations are carried out, a drawing is being prepared.

Manufacturing of a paneled door

To make a paneled door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. The constituent elements of the structure are made of plywood, massive boards. A drawing is prepared in advance, on which 4 panels are marked.

The frame is made of timber. It is pre-processed with a cutter. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Spikes are cut on the crossbars, and the edges are processed with a milling cutter. Panels and mullions are inserted into the grooves.

The end part of the coating, which will go to the end of the canvas, must be flat. In the vertical elements, slots are made for assembling the structure.

To make the panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some paneling elements are replaced by glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat plane are mounted and framed with glazing beads.

Otherwise, the panels are cut with a milling cutter. In this way, a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used for the manufacture of panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic and dried.

All parts are assembled into a single structure on a flat surface, and each spike is coated with a special glue. Step-by-step door assembly:

gluing the crossbars into the grooves of the vertical beams;
installation of midships;
installation of the remaining panels;
gluing a vertical bar;
fixing glazing beads for finishing.

A rubberized hammer is used to install the tenons into the grooves. The canvas is padded from the sides. A building corner is used to check the corners. The coating is compressed with clamps.

On the canvas, markings are made for installing hinges and a handle with a lock. Installation of fittings is carried out after the completion of finishing work. For finishing, acrylic paint is used either. To obtain a dark finish, a stain is used.

Warming and soundproofing

Door insulation scheme

Painting

At the next stage, processing and decoration of the manufactured structure is carried out. In this case, it is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

processing the coating with sandpaper or a sander;
impregnation of wood with an antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. Then the processing is repeated;
the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each layer applied should dry well. This will take about 2 days;
for finishing the coating, paint, varnish, and stain are used. The stain must be applied to the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the appropriate number of layers of stain is applied. Each layer will take 4 hours to dry. To fix the result, the stain is covered with two layers of varnish.

For finishing the door, paint, varnish, stain is used

When starting repairs in an apartment, I want not only to update the wallpaper on the walls, but also to completely change the interior of the rooms. Therefore, there is often a desire to change all the doors that are in the house. And put something unusual, comfortable and beautiful. Many go to the store and buy ready-made doors, but the most interesting thing is to make them with your own hands. Any home craftsman can engage in self-production, for this you need to decide on their design, choose the material and purchase the necessary tools.

How to correctly calculate the doors

All work on self-production begins with calculations. First, you need to measure the doorway into which the doors will be installed. Opening measurements are carried out sequentially:

There are standard sizes of door leaves: 60, 70, 80, 90 cm wide and up to 2 m high.

But your door can be made to an individual size if the opening or opening method allows it: sliding or barn doors do not depend on the size of the opening, since they are located behind it.

Sliding doors are easy to use: they do not take up space when opened

When calculating the box, you need to decide whether to make a threshold or not. Usually thresholds are installed in the bathroom and kitchen, but it all depends on the preferences of the owner. It is also determined in advance with the design of the door - on one or both sides - the number of platbands depends on this, if the door is conceived with inserts.

The more inserts made of glass or other materials in the door, the more platbands will be required to fix them

Additionally, the required number of handles, hinges or other fasteners is taken into account based on the opening design, as well as locking and fixing devices, if necessary.

Required tools

To make doors yourself, you will need the following tools:

If there is a threshold, then the door leaf is made on all sides 2-3 mm smaller than the door frame, and if it is absent, a gap of 5-10 mm is left from below, so that the floor covering will not be damaged when opening the doors.

Material selection

It is important to decide: what to make the door from and what material to use for the exterior.

The following materials can be the basis for an interior door:

natural wood - it's easy to work with it, the doors are strong, beautiful and durable. Disadvantages: heavy doors, wood absorbs moisture. Often only a frame is made of wood, and other materials are used for cladding;
MDF plate - the door can consist entirely of plates, but if it is sheathed along the frame, then corrugated cardboard or other filler is placed inside. This is a cheaper material, it is not afraid of moisture;
Chipboard - consists of compressed shavings glued with synthetic resins;
plastic, glass, aluminum or stainless steel are usually used in production, but at home it is difficult to make a door out of them.

Gallery: doors made of different materials

Double-leaf glass doors are made of tempered glass and decorated with designs Two halves of a double-leaf plastic door with colored glass can be decorated in different ways, if one of them is rarely used The barn door made of matte plastic is perfect for a bathroom or dressing room Sliding door made of aluminum frame and colored plastic is beautiful, lightweight and easy to use Ordinary paneled doors can be made with a glass insert and stand out in the interior with a bright color. An arched door with decorative trim will become an independent decoration of a large room A blind wooden door with inserts made of thin MDF sheets will harmoniously fit into a classic-style room

Most often, do-it-yourself interior doors are made of wood, so you need to determine which wood is best to choose. Consider different breeds:

pine - easy to handle, but dries up over time; differs in low cost;
alder - more porous and softer wood, easy to process, but not resistant to decay;
birch is a dense and viscous wood with a beautiful structure, but short-lived;
oak - durable and resistant to mechanical damage, but difficult to work with, as it cracks along the fibers;
beech - durable, but afraid of changes in temperature and humidity;
larch - with a beautiful structure, easy to process, durable;
walnut - with a homogeneous structure, strong and durable;
maple - resistant to moisture, easy to process and polish.

For decorative cladding of the door leaf and frame, the following materials are used:

natural veneer - thinly cut sheets or strips of wood that are glued to any substrate. Veneer allows you to imitate solid wood;
Natural veneer has a textured surface, can be easily glued to wood and amenable to restoration
eco-veneer - pressed products consisting of glued wood fibers. Eco-veneer is similar to natural, but costs less;
laminate - a film of several layers of paper. A high-quality laminate looks beautiful and serves for a long time, and a low-quality one - peels off over time;
Vinyl laminate is durable, suitable for all surfaces, but will fade in direct sunlight
plastic - sheets of synthetic polymers. Plastic is moisture resistant and is not afraid of temperature changes, but when heated strongly, it emits harmful substances;
paint - acrylic, alkyd, nitro paint;
varnish - allows you to keep the structure of the wood from moisture.

The choice of materials depends on the preferences of the owners and the design of the doors.

Video: characteristics of doors made of different materials

How to make a door with your own hands

Usually, swing doors are made with their own hands, so we will consider the manufacturing sequence using their example. For self-production of an interior door, you will need:

board: 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide, no more than 6 m;
Chipboard: will be used to insert inside the door leaf. Instead, you can take, for example, glass;
self-tapping screws (or wooden confirmation pins), glue, varnish or paint.

The manufacturing technology of such a door is simple. The work is carried out in several stages:

Preparing the board. According to the exact dimensions, the board is cut into 4 parts: the top, bottom and sides of the door leaf. The grinder's grinding disc is used to polish wide surfaces. The ends need not be processed.
Boards are first cut to size and then sanded
Milling. The ends of the boards are rounded off with a hand mill. At one of the ends, a groove is made for installing chipboard. The groove must match the thickness of this sheet. It is usually made 16 mm wide and 15–20 mm deep.
The hand router is used to machine the ends of boards and cut grooves
Trimming the ends. With a circular or hand saw, the ends of the boards are trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees. At the extreme points of the racks, the length should be equal to the height of the door leaf, and at the extreme points of the upper and lower boards - its width.
It is necessary to cut the boards at an angle of 45 degrees so that the parts of the door leaf are connected to each other evenly, without gaps
Open chipboard. Calculation of the width of the sheet: subtract the width of the two pillars from the width of the door leaf and add the depth of the two grooves. The length of the sheet is calculated in the same way. For a door 80 × 200 cm, it turns out - width: 800-100x2 + 20x2 = 640 mm, length: 2000-150x2 + 2x20 = 1740 mm.
You can cut the chipboard yourself or order a finished sheet according to your size
Pre-assembly. Knocking down with a rubber mallet, boards are carefully put on the chipboard sheet. The tightness of the fasteners is checked. Then the boards are removed, holes are drilled in the corners for self-tapping screws. But you can also attach such a door to wooden confirmation pins.
Insert of locks, latches and awnings. It is better to put them on the disassembled door, so as not to accidentally damage the grooves of the insert by pressing.
It is better to attach the hinges, handle and lock to the door in a disassembled state so as not to damage the insert
Painting and assembly. After painting and varnishing the boards, the door leaf is reassembled and fixed. The boards are fixed with grooves on the chipboard. If wooden pins are used instead of self-tapping screws, they are greased with glue and inserted into the prepared holes.

Decorating the door is an important step. If, instead of painting, veneer or laminate is chosen, then it is better to entrust this process to specialists.

Video: simple do-it-yourself side door

Do-it-yourself steam room door

For a steam room, you can independently make a door from solid wood. The work is performed in the following sequence:

Open the boards. You will need tongue-and-groove boards and beams 30 mm thick. To calculate the number of boards, you need to know their dimensions and the size of the door leaf. If the door is 2 m high, then the boards are sawn to a length of 2000–2x30 = 1940 mm.
Assembly of boards. The boards are laid out in a row, leveled and glued together with furniture glue. Tightly knocked down with a mallet and squeezed with clamps until the glue dries.
The boards are connected using grooves, which are coated with glue
Preparation and fixation of the timber. A bar, sawn into two long and two short blanks, is attached to the self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the canvas.
Strengthening the door. To strengthen the structure, two transverse strips are installed on top of the boards.
To strengthen the door leaf, transverse strips are installed: they are attached with self-tapping screws or glue
Fittings. Hinges and handles are attached. For the steam room, wooden handles are selected, since metal handles are very hot.
Treatment. Transparent deep impregnation compounds are used, which reliably protect the wood and do not emit harmful substances.
It is dangerous to use varnish or paint to cover the steam room doors

The main unit of the sliding door is a sliding mechanism, it can be purchased at any hardware store. You will also need special hardware for sliding doors. The design consists of an upper rail or is complemented by a lower one.

Sliding doors save space

The length of the guide strip must be twice the width of the door frame, otherwise the door will not open completely.

The main thing for a sliding door is the low weight of the door leaf, if it is mounted only on the upper rail.

Manufacturing process:

Creating a door leaf. It is made of solid wood with inserts, but in a lightweight version so that the weight of the door does not interfere with the operation of the movable mechanism.
Creates a groove for the guide. A groove is made in the lower end of the door for the lower guide. It is cut in the center of the door leaf end to a depth of 3 mm.
Rollers are screwed to the upper end of the blade.
The bottom lock prevents the door from jumping out of the rail
Installation of fittings. The lock is cut in and the handles are placed.
Fastening the guide profile. A guide is horizontally attached to the wall above the doorway. On the one hand, it should protrude by 5 cm, and on the other, by the width of the canvas.
The upper guide is horizontally positioned: the accuracy is checked by the building level
Fastening the stop. A lower guide or stop is attached to the floor, along which the door will ride.
Door installation. The door rollers are inserted into the upper guide and closed with stops, and the door is put on the lower stop with a cut groove.

The pencil case door is similar in design to a sliding or sliding option. Its difference is that the door leaf is hidden in the wall.

If the wall is not bearing, then it is dismantled, and at this place they make a voluminous pencil case in which the door leaf is hidden.

The door leaf is hidden in the wall - this is convenient in small apartments

Stages of creating a pencil case door:

Creating a door leaf. You can do it yourself or purchase a ready-made one.
Plasterboard false wall construction. First, a frame is created from metal profiles, and space is left inside for the door. The niche should be 20 mm wider than the canvas so that the door does not scratch and moves freely.
The frame of the false wall is assembled from metal profiles or from a wooden bar
Fixing the guide. The upper rail is fixed inside the false wall, the door leaf is hung on it.
Door travel adjustment. The free play of the door leaf is regulated: it should not touch the frame and reach the floor.
Frame sheathing. After adjusting the door, the pencil case frame is sewn on both sides with plasterboard, chipboard, OSB, etc.
Sheathing of the frame is carried out only after installing and adjusting the course of the door leaf

Double doors

The design of a double-leaf door is no different from a single-leaf door. Only its overall size is larger, and the lock connects the sashes to each other.

These are two canvases installed in a common door frame. Double doors also open in different ways: like swing, sliding-sliding, pendulum or accordion doors.

The double-leaf plastic accordion door is convenient for the kitchen: it is rarely used, so it will last a long time

The width of a double-leaf door is usually in the range of 130-190 cm, this allows you to design wide openings.

The double-leaf door fits perfectly into the large hall and is convenient for receiving guests

Features and sequence of installation of a double-leaf door:

Choice of sashes - for this design, wood, plastic, glass, metal and other canvases are used. They can be purchased ready-made or made yourself. The main condition is to determine the size of the door frame and divide it in half (or into 4 parts if the door is folding).
A double folding door made of four leaves perfectly complements a rustic interior
If the door is with a lock - in the classical style of execution, a decorative element is installed on it, bridging the gap between the canvases.
Sliding doors are made without a lock, so they do not need an additional element covering the central slot
Installation - mounting the door frame and hanging canvases is no different from a single-leaf structure. But it is advisable to install a double door with a partner.
Installation of fittings - inserting locks and handles is carried out after hanging and adjusting the doors.

Barn door

Barn doors help to decorate the premises semi-antique, are convenient to use.

The barn door is easy to install, takes up little space and is easy to operate

They got their name due to the fact that earlier similar sliding structures were used on barns and wagons with grain. Modern door leaves come in a variety of styles.

A barn double-leaf wooden door in a classic style is suitable even for small apartments

Such doors are mounted both on sliding mechanisms and on rails or butterflies.

Barn door fasteners are made in different stylistic designs, so that you can choose them to suit your style of interior

The barn door is beautiful in any design.

The transparent double-leaf barn door looks weightless and fills the apartment with light

Sliding barn doors have gained their popularity due to the following advantages:

they take care of the place: the canvas goes to the side along the wall;
beautiful: often the barn door is the main element of the interior;
fashionable: moving doors are installed in modern homes;
ample opportunities: barn mounts are capable of withstanding a large weight; you can expand the doorway by increasing the open space; or to separate the wardrobe from the room with doors. And in studio apartments, such a door will also serve as a mobile partition.

A barn door with translucent canvases is good to use as cabinet doors or a built-in wardrobe room

It is easiest to make a barn door with your own hands from solid wood. The manufacturing process will be the same as for assembling the steam room door. But the difference is that the room door can be varnished or painted.

The barn door can be painted to match the color of the walls, and it will create a calm atmosphere in the home.

Video: barn mechanisms

The roto-door combines a swing and a sliding structure.

It opens both in one and the other direction. Due to the fact that after opening it, it also moves from the center, the useful area of the room is saved.

The roto-door is convenient in the layout of small apartments and walk-through adjoining rooms

For a roto-door, you can make your own door leaf or buy a ready-made one. Since there is a complex opening mechanism here, you will have to purchase it in the store, you will not be able to do it yourself.

The roto-door has combined a sliding and hinged design, which allows you to open it and move it towards the door jamb

Disadvantages of rotary doors: high cost, the opening mechanism does not support heavy weight. Therefore, the door is used for beauty and has no protective function.

The large roto-door is made of plastic so that the opening mechanism does not deform under the weight

The rotary door is installed by professionals, but you can do it yourself if you follow the recommendations for the process. Roto doors are usually purchased during a major overhaul, since a doorway must be formed for them. During the installation of a rotary door, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Measurement accuracy. The structure between the box and the canvas should have a gap of no more than 5 mm, so it is important to make the right measurements.
Correct installation. During the installation of the door frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the level of verticality and horizontality, otherwise the mechanism will jam, the door will not move well.
Partition. Its thickness along the entire length must be the same, otherwise the door will be disrupted.
Adjustment. An important process: it is carried out in all directions of movement of the door leaf. After adjustment, it should move easily and close tightly.

If you decide to install the roto-door yourself, you must follow the technology for performing the work, but it is better to entrust the assembly of the rotary mechanism to specialists.

Video: installation of the roto mechanism (part 1)

Video: installation of the roto mechanism (part 2)

Villagers and owners of country houses have to be able to do things that many townspeople do not even know about: grow potatoes, nibble chicken, heat the stove, milk a cow. On the other hand, they don’t need this - the main thing is to make good money in the city, and you can buy everything you need in a store or order a service in numerous offices. Nevertheless, a lot of people dream of buying a house outside the city and getting out of the metropolis at least for the weekend. And then they have to learn professions that are almost unclaimed in the urban environment, for example, make a door for a barn. By the way, you will learn how to make a door out of wood yourself from this article.

So, there are a lot of options for making a new door: when the old one has rotted or rusted, when they have built a door to, to the room, to. In our case, a small shed was erected for household equipment, into which we also needed to make a door.

The cost of making a new one is several times less than the purchased one, moreover, doors of certain sizes are sold in stores, for which the openings must be adjusted, which is not very convenient. It's easier the one you need, and make the door leaf yourself for it.

They begin to build a door by measuring the perimeter of the opening. For us, these dimensions are 190 by 80 cm. It is convenient both in height and in width. Now you need to pick up boards of arbitrary width, and the length is not less than the doorway. The number of gaps does not matter, the main thing is that when folded together they are wider than 80 cm.The thickness of the gaps is 2.5 cm.Cut them off with a circular saw, making them 190 cm long.

We decided to cover the front part of the door leaf with clapboard. Therefore, we will remove the side of the boards that will look inside the barn with a plane.

We connect the gaps together and measure the width of the canvas. Further, so that the gaps do not diverge, we pull them together with a wooden plank, screwing it to the first and last board. Make marks with a pencil, and cut the blade with a circular saw to a width of 79.5 cm, 5 mm less than the opening. It is necessary to make a gap so that the canvas does not touch the jamb. We will also make the length 189.5 cm.

Unscrew the bar and determine from which side the door will open - to the right or to the left. This is done in order to understand in which board the lock should be installed. In our case, it will be a mortise device with handles and a latch. When making doors from boards, I always immediately cut out a place for the lock in the outer board, and not later, in the assembled door. It is much easier, faster and more convenient.

First, we mark the gaps by tracing the body of the lock with a pencil. Then, with a feather drill of a suitable size, drill a recess in it.

In boards with a thickness of 25 mm, it is difficult to make a recess for the lock without damaging the walls. But in the future, during the finishing of the canvas with clapboard, all the holes will be closed. It is better to earn a place for the lock with a narrow, well-sharpened chisel. Immediately you need to drill through holes for attaching the lock handles and cut out a place for the key. Insert the lock into the recess and test its operation with the key.

Then you can collect the door leaf. Connect the boards together, align them.

Cut off a piece of lining to the width of the canvas and nail it to the gaps with short studs with narrow hats. Cut off the lining of the same size, insert it into the previous one and nail it.

Plank by plank, we cover the entire door. After the lining is nailed down, take a sander and grind the edges of the door around the perimeter, removing irregularities and roughness. Turn the door over with the slats down and carefully sand the inside. Do not forget to drill key holes and lock handles in the place where they were closed with clapboard.

The gaps between the boards on the inside can be decorated with a 25 mm wide layout. It can be nailed along the perimeter, thereby closing the holes during the selection under the lock.

We paint the door on both sides with varnish, with the addition of natural wax. It is the best paint formulation for doors installed outdoors and exposed to natural precipitation. The wax prevents moisture from absorbing and the door does not swell during wet weather.

After the varnish has dried, the hinges can be installed. In our case, the loop-arrows are used, in the old style. We place them on the door leaf, make marks, drill through holes and fix them with furniture bolts with semicircular hats. On the inside, we will install enlarged washers so that the nuts do not jam the wood and tighten the loops with nuts with a wrench.

Next, let's move on to the opening in the barn. We will screw a 5 mm high wooden plank onto the threshold. This is done so that during the installation of the hinges, the door rests on this bar. When, by screwing on the hinges, we remove it, the door leaf will sag a little, but still, when opening and closing, it will not touch the threshold.

At the moment, it is necessary to install the canvas in the opening and wedge it, for example, with an ax, so that it does not move.

Then we straighten the second part of the loops, make markings and drill 3 holes for each loop. We remove the ax, take the bolts and tighten them with nuts. The barn door has been installed.

Next, we fix it, install the handles. On the door jamb, first mark it out, then select the recess for the latch and then fasten the striker plate. We check the operation of the lock with a key.

Now, if you close the door, it will feed into the barn, because nothing is holding it. To eliminate this problem, we nail wooden planks with a height of 1.5 cm along the perimeter of the opening. They act as a stop and protect the shed from snow penetration into the gap between the door and the jamb. And there should be a small gap. Doors installed outside, depending on the weather, may slightly increase or decrease in size. Varnish with the addition of wax significantly reduces this probability, but all the same, you need to play it safe and leave a gap of 5 mm.

That's all, making and installing the door with your own hands is finished. Such canvases, made from pine boards, will serve for many years. From time to time they need to be tinted and the hinges lubricated, no more maintenance is required.

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