Installation of 5 socket outlets in a row. How to connect a socket block: installation rules and connection diagrams

Where it is necessary to connect an interacting group of household appliances, an outlet block is installed, including from two to four electrical outlets. Installing and connecting this option is different from the same steps with a conventional outlet. In order for the result to please with reliability, you need to know the subtleties. Do you agree?

We will tell you in detail how the socket block is connected, what connection options, taking into account consumers, exist. Here you will find out what installation rules should be considered when installing such a modular device. The information submitted for consideration is based on the EMP.

We supported the detailed technology for mounting and connecting socket blocks with diagrams, step-by-step photo guides, and videos.

The design of the socket block differs from the usual socket only in the number of "seats". It consists of a plastic body and an internal part, represented by terminals with contacts and terminals, to which springs for plugs are attached.

Most modern models are equipped with grounding contacts, which are designed to increase the safety of the system and reduce the voltage from all electrical appliances connected through the unit.

The number of connection points of the installed socket block is determined based on the presence of household appliances planted in one group

Socket blocks are of two types:

Designed for concealed wiring. They are installed in the thickness of the wall using a module made of socket boxes made in the form of glasses;
Designed for open wiring. They are installed on the wall surface using a socket box made in the form of a plate.

In addition to the two main types of socket blocks, there is also a very practical retractable type. They are easily mounted in a countertop or in a cabinet, from which they are pulled out during the period of operational need. Their principle of operation is similar to power sources located on / in the wall.

When planning to carry out a hidden laying of the wire, furrows are hollowed out along the marked lines. When feeding one of the points of the block with a separate line, it is necessary to lay another furrow from the shield.

All holes and ditches are cleaned from crushed pieces and dust with a brush or cotton napkin. In the future, for the protection of the PE conductor and the convenience of laying the cable, it is better to run it in a corrugated sleeve.

If you don’t have a puncher at hand, feel free to use a grinder; equipping the device with a diamond disc, you can create perfectly smooth groove contours with a minimum of effort

If desired, wall chasing can also be done in the “old-fashioned” way using a chisel and a hammer. But be prepared that the implementation of this method will take more effort and time. Yes, and making recesses with a chisel in a brick for laying a cable is not an easy task, which does not always give a neat desired result.

It is much easier to work with a drywall base. To make seats, it is only necessary to cut round strobes using a drywall nozzle according to the markings. The main thing is not to press hard, so as not to break the fragile base.

The specifics of fastening the sockets

For fastening the socket boxes, it is most convenient to use special glasses interconnected with plastic clips. Designs of standard sizes, round or square, provide rigid fastening of elements in the plane.

Adapters in such socket boxes are most often removable structures that snap into special grooves

To fix the socket boxes in a brickwork or wall, alabaster or gypsum mortar is used. The powder is diluted with water in a ratio of 4:1. When working with these creamy compositions, it should be remembered that they set quickly.

The powder must be diluted in small portions and quickly laid into the hole until the mixture has hardened. The outer side faces adjacent to the surface and the bottom of the connected glasses are coated with the same solution, after which the entire block is inserted into the hole.

The position of recessed glasses is corrected using a level, not allowing the protrusions of the edges to go beyond the plane of the wall.

After making sure that the position of the sockets is correct, the edges are covered with a liquid solution, giving the plane the most even surface. The remains of alabaster or gypsum can be used to mask the wire laid to the outlet.

Plastic cups are buried in the seats and fixed with a gypsum mortar or special paws placed on the sides

Mounting cups for drywall are additionally equipped with special paws. By pressing against the reverse side of the plate surface, these tabs draw the glass into the hole.

The socket boxes recessed into the wall should not abut and protrude beyond its limits. If the gap between the wall and the plasterboard is insufficient to accommodate the socket, the hole in the wall is further deepened.

The only exception is the option when it is supposed to tile or plaster the surface. In this case, the socket box is made slightly protruding beyond the wall by 5-7 mm.

Subtleties of electrical connection

After the solution acquires the desired strength, proceed to connect the indoor unit. To connect the sockets in a loop method, the wires laid from the junction box are led into the first socket.

Immediately before this, the ends of the cable are stripped of 10-15 mm from the whip. You can do the work with a sharply sharpened knife. But in order to achieve maximum accuracy, experienced owners recommend using side cutters.

In order to be able to make a new connection if necessary in the future, the craftsmen recommend leaving a small supply of the supply cable directed from the junction box when stripping. During installation, it can be folded inside the socket in the form of a large-diameter spiral or in the form of a snake.

The main thing is to prevent a sharp bend or fracture, which is often the “sin” of inexperienced owners, laying the wires inside the glass in a hurry

Cuts of multi-colored wires are prepared in advance to create jumpers. The cross section of the jumpers must correspond to the conductors of the supply line. Jumper wires should not be made too long. Otherwise, during the connection process, they will interfere and prevent the outlet from “sit” tightly in the mounting box. In the cut wires, the insulation is also stripped by about a centimeter.

Wires are threaded through the adapters of the cavities of the socket boxes previously cleaned of gypsum residues. To simplify installation, the ends of the conductors are bent in the direction of the terminals.

The protective cover is removed from the socket block itself, then the clamping screws are unscrewed by 5-6 mm. The stripped end of the phase wire of the supply cable is connected to the first outlet, taking into account the position of the terminals. From it, through the PE contacts, the conductor and the neutral wires of the supply cable are sent to the second outlet.

The connection of the remaining sockets is carried out through jumpers connecting the mechanisms of the devices. Cores with the same color braid are connected according to the color: phase - red, "zero" - blue, and grounding conductor - green

By the same principle, all subsequent outlets are connected. Sockets with neatly laid wires are not tightly tightened with screws. When grinding sockets, it is imperative to observe the polarity of the contacts: a phase is removed from the terminal with a phase conductor, and a zero is removed from the zero.

In order for the wire strands to securely fall into the mounting sockets, before installation, the bolts are unscrewed with a clamp to the maximum, and after it is completed, they are returned to their original position

In order to facilitate and improve living conditions in an apartment, a triple socket is often mounted. This step allows you to connect several electrical appliances at once in one part of the room. You can replace the block or socket with a double or triple one, and you can also install a new one yourself. It is important to follow the basic rules and recommendations, as well as to choose the right tool and materials.

Why Install Triple Sockets

Connecting a triple socket is most often required by people who do not plan to carry out repairs in the near future, but want more convenience for using electronics and electrical equipment. Connecting such a device has advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

low cost;
safety and reliability of fasteners;
no need to lay additional wires;
the ability to quickly improve the functionality of the electrical network in the apartment;
the ability to carry out repairs easily and quickly in case of malfunctions;
ease of installation of a triple socket and its use.

At the same time, you need to be prepared for the disadvantages:

there is a need to drill socket boxes for three modules;
the use of additional devices (in particular, a puncher) will be required;
during operation, a lot of dust and dirt can be generated.

Installing a triple outlet can greatly improve the functionality of a room's wiring without requiring additional cable and space costs.

Main varieties

The factory socket is a device that provides a safe contact closure for uninterrupted power supply to electrical appliances. Inside it are terminals with springs attached to them and contacts. Outside, the socket design is a plastic box (case) with a working part.

There are two main types of sockets:

Socket C5. Standard Soviet design with a square body and a round fork cutout. Such sockets are not grounded and are suitable for most old-style electrical appliances, but are designed for conventional 220 V.
Socket C6 (Euro). Withstands more current than C5 and is suitable for connecting appliances with Euro plugs and sockets. Has grounding. More secure than the first option, securely fixed to the wall.

Over time, the need to increase the functionality of sockets increases, especially when it comes to electrical appliances in the kitchen. According to the modification of the outlet, today it can be divided into the following varieties:

internal for hidden wiring;
external (external), having a protective cover;
built-in and overhead;
with and without grounding;
equipped with a circuit breaker for overload protection.

Regardless of the type and modification, during the installation of a triple socket, the so-called block assembly method is used. It involves the installation of three separate sockets with a frame that unites them. If there is a need to purchase parts separately, then when choosing this frame, you need to pay attention to the correspondence of its shape and size to the structure.

There are also triple sockets that plug into one socket. They have a triangular shape, take up a little less space, but are not so convenient and safe to use.

Preparatory measures for installation

Preparation for installation should begin with the choice of the installation site. The Euro-standard involves fixing the device at a distance of about 20–40 cm from the floor. This is important in order to comply with basic safety and aesthetic rules.

The second important event is the calculation of the current strength. It must be remembered that network elements are always designed for a given operating current. If this item is not observed, the safety of operation is sharply reduced, there is a high probability of overloads and, as a result, overheating. The cross section of the wire must also correspond to the load. In this case, it should be at least 1 sq. mm for copper and not less than 2.5 sq. mm - for aluminum. The three-core option will be the most successful.

Parts and products for installing sockets should be selected based on the given parameters of the room and the operating current. It is also important to observe the aesthetic features of the apartment, choose the safest and most suitable materials in terms of color and appearance. Installation of hidden and outdoor device also has different requirements.

At a distance of 20-40 cm from the floor, it is necessary to make markings with a pencil or marker. It is also advisable to use the level for a flat horizontal line. To do this, marking the first center of the installation, it is necessary to set aside half the width of the lining on the socket. It is also useful to mark up in the form of horizontal and vertical lines.

Installing a socket

If a one-piece three-socket socket was chosen for installation, only one socket may be needed. A block with three separate mechanisms is fixed on single sockets. Difficulties may arise when installing the unit on a brick and concrete wall, as additional devices may be required. With drywall, making socket boxes is easier.

Required tools:

puncher or drill (for concrete, drywall and brick);
nozzle in the form of a rounded crown with incisors;
two types of screwdrivers: straight and curly;
hammer;
Master OK;
chisel;
device for measuring voltage.

Stages of placing sockets:

Using a drill or a puncher and a nozzle, make a round hole in the wall (drilling should be done until the crown is completely immersed in the wall).
On the back of the socket, press out three holes for the prepared cables.
Drill between the three holes for the main cable two for the wires.

Working with drywall and brick requires basic safety precautions. It is important to remember that such building materials are very fragile and often crumble while working with them.

In order for the socket boxes to hold well in place, they need to be fixed with a thick aqueous solution of alabaster. Before installing the socket box in the wall, the hole made must be lubricated with the resulting mixture. On a well-prepared mixture, the devices usually hold well, but if they fail, more alabaster should be added to the solution. After the installation of the electrics, the solution must be left to dry for two to three hours.

Do not forget about high-quality grounding - it is important not only for ease of use, but also for safety purposes.

Wiring

To connect the wires, you must use a parallel circuit. In this case, two of the additional wires are connected to each existing wire, which will be directed to the second and third sockets. Next, using the indicator, you should determine the zero and phase, then turn off the power supply. After that, the wires are twisted, passing them in turn to other sockets through the holes in their back wall.

Connecting a block of three sockets with one socket requires the use of a loop. This installation option should be avoided, as it will be less safe, and the product will quickly wear out.

Triple socket connection

When connecting a triple socket with separate sockets, it is necessary to connect the wires to the terminals and press them with the terminals. Next, they should be twisted inside the device and install the central part. Only after that you can fix the decorative part, as well as the cover (if necessary).

Important! Installing a new outlet in an existing lighting group may require replacing the machine. This must be checked before starting work.

Socket installation is complete. Now you can check its performance by connecting the local power supply in the room. It is best not to use devices that consume a lot of energy when checking.

Installation Safety Instructions

All work must be carried out in accordance with basic safety regulations. This will prevent damage to the device and accidents. It is important to comply with the following requirements:

Before performing work, turning off the electricity in the room and breaking the circuit is mandatory.
You can only use specialized devices and tools with rubber or plastic insulation.
The electrical wire must be of the appropriate length. It is not safe to use too long.
If you need to connect wires, soldering is the best mounting option.

Avoid buying cheap products.
The use of a cable during installation may reduce the safety of the installation.
It is important to monitor the condition of the insulation and, if necessary, use plastic tubes for wires.
The wires and socket must match the available power.

Thus, in order to qualitatively and quickly carry out the installation of a triple socket, it is necessary to select the right mechanisms and materials, as well as ensure maximum safety during operation. In this case, the best installation option is three sockets with their own socket boxes, fastened with a solid frame.

Installing an outlet in a ready-made socket box, it would seem, is a simple task. After all, often, drilling and installing the socket itself into the wall takes much more time.

However, even here there are nuances, misconceptions and rules that some may not know about, while others, on the contrary, argue to the last, insisting that they are right (for example, connecting a double socket with a loop).

Consider the main points and stages of this process.

Safety and tool

First of all, before the production of work, it is required to ensure safety. When replacing or installing sockets, always turn off the GENERAL introductory machine for the entire apartment or house, and not specifically on this outlet.

This must be done in order to break not only the phase, but also zero. After disconnection, check the absence of voltage with an indicator at the place of work.

Prepare the necessary tool:

You may also need:

Recessed socket box

The first rule concerns the socket itself. If you mount not a final, but a pass-through socket, that is, one on which the cable will not end, but go further down or sideways to other sockets or switches, always use recessed sockets.

The standard one comes with a depth of 45mm, and you need to take 60mm. This is necessary for compact placement of wires, especially the ground wire (why it is, will be discussed below).

Do not try to cram all the conductors, which is called back to back. There will be no benefit from such savings, but only one harm.

In addition, the installation itself will be better, more convenient and will not cause insoluble difficulties. For example, when the outlet or its frame will not fit snugly against the wall. Because of this, the veins will have to be shortened. Again, disassemble everything, re-mount and dismantle.

Here is a photo of a standard socket recessed in a standard socket.

All the space that remains inside it for wiring is about 1 cm. If you use a model with a depth of 60mm, then you will add as much as 1.5cm of mounting depth.

Feel what is called the difference.

Stripping length

When stripping the outer sheath of the cable, one should not strive to remove it to the maximum depth, i.e. up to the wall of the socket.

Always try to leave a few millimeters. Thus, the insulation of the cores will be protected from chafing or crushing by the sharp edges of the socket.

It is very convenient to do this on a NYM round cable, with a special Jokari puller.

Make a circular incision, and then immediately longitudinal. After that, even in cramped conditions, the shell is easily pulled out.

With flat cables of the brand VVG and, such a trick cannot be done.

And if it is still a GOST cable, and not a TU-shny one, then even more so.

As a rule, a knife with a heel cuts the outer insulation right up to the wall of the box.

That is why many electricians like the NYM cable brand, and not VVG. Because of the convenience of cutting and ease of working with it.

Although each brand has its own advantages and disadvantages.

By the way, in rare cases, you can also find a round-section VVG cable.

How much insulation must be removed from the core itself before it is brought into the contact? Much of course depends on the brand of the outlet.

Some models even have a template that is very easy to navigate.

But usually, the bare part of the core should not exceed 8-10mm.

The length of the wires protruding from the socket is selected based on:

ease of installation

socket depth

You must understand that the length that you leave will be useful in the future for convenient dismantling, pulling out and carrying out some kind of revision work. Or even replacing the outlet with a different model.

As a rule, leave a length equal to the width of 3-4 fingers.

Connecting sockets with a loop

The main nuance that causes heated debate among electricians is whether it is possible to connect the outlet with a cable? And in this matter, many are divided into 3 camps:

possible in some cases

you can always, if the design of the outlet allows

Most modern sockets always have two terminals for each wire: phase-zero-ground. Total 6 contacts.

It is assumed that in the through socket all six ends of the wires (3 incoming + 3 outgoing) can be safely brought into the terminals, clamped and be sure that everything is done correctly.

However, there is a paragraph of the rules of the EIC, clause 1.7.144, which reads:

That is, phase and neutral working conductors are connected by a loop without problems, but for the ground conductor, according to adherents of a categorical ban, this is unacceptable.

For him, it is necessary to make a branch. Moreover, it is desirable to perform it in a screwless way so that it does not have to be serviced (tightened) in the future. And this means - sleeve crimping, or soldering or welding.

The easiest and most convenient way to do this is by pressing. Fold the final section of the three cores that will be connected by crimping and select the appropriate sleeve.

For example, you have a 3 * 2.5mm2 power cable. Incoming core 2.5mm2 + branch to a socket 2.5mm2 + outgoing cable core to an adjacent socket 2.5mm2. Total theoretically - 7.5mm2.

Due to the fact that the actual cross-section of the cores does not always correspond to the declared one, and the weakening of the contacts is not permissible here, select a sleeve with a slightly smaller cross-section than the calculated one - GML-6.

Get the vein into the sleeve and crimp the press with tongs.

Always bite off the excess length of the sleeve so that it does not take up free space in the socket.

The resulting joint is best protected with heat shrink tubing.

Although, of course, no one forbids applying several layers of high-quality electrical tape.

Especially if you have a powerful one, without smooth temperature control. With such an apparatus, it is possible to inadvertently melt individual parts of the socket.

If you do it differently, using the factory socket terminals, what does it threaten? For example, you have two double sockets connected in series. One at a height of 90 cm, the other, just below it, at a level above the plinth.

Power to the bottom, comes from the top. If there is an interruption or violation of the ground contact in the very first of them, then automatically the "earth" will disappear on the rest.
Which is absolutely unacceptable.

However, many electricians are sure that the ban on such looping only applies to sockets located in different blocks, at a distance from each other. And this rule in no way applies to double sockets located in one block, united by a single frame.

That is, in fact, such a block is a kind of connector that has a single body. So, it can be considered as a single electrical installation product.

Most double-tees and even extensions are made in this way.

You will not be able to disassemble a single product without disconnecting the plugs from adjacent connectors. And since you have disconnected these plugs, then breaking the grounding conductor at the very first point will not affect anything.

But if the socket blocks are located far from each other, and do not have a common body, then it is absolutely impossible to connect them with a cable.

Well, the third interpreters of the paragraph of the rules of the PUE 1.7.144 reasonably notice that in the PUE itself, nothing is said about the prohibition of “loops”. There is even no such concept for outlets.

It says that the "Pe" conductor must be electrically inseparable (the essence of this word is electrically). And that it is impossible to include the current-carrying elements of the device in series in the circuit of the grounding conductor.

Neither one nor the other is in the loop. In most of these sockets for one terminal, both conductors are immediately clamped. Moreover, in an acceptable way (screw or spring).

Now, if the socket had an earth entrance on one side, and an exit on the other (from under another independent contact), then yes - it’s impossible! Moreover, the PUE does not consider the socket contacts as open conductive parts, so clause 1.7.144 has nothing to do with it.

Even if you are forced to dismantle one of the looped sockets in this way, in addition to the protective wire, you will break the phase and neutral conductors anyway.

Which of these opinions is correct and how to mount you?

If you do what is called for yourself and “for centuries”, so as not to look into the socket for decades, then put a sleeve and make a branch, not a loop.

The same applies to objects for delivery to regulatory authorities. In order not to redo all the wiring and not to prove your own reading of the PUE, to some energy supervision inspector, forget about looping. Do not give an extra reason for remarks.

Well, if you are firmly convinced that the cable is not a violation at all, and it was not in vain that socket manufacturers initially included the possibility of such a connection in their products, then at home you are free to act like supporters of the second and third methods.

In the end, this is your own house, and no one has the right to forbid you to do so, and not otherwise.

Caliper location

The next question is how to properly position the socket support inside the socket - with the terminals down or up.

Some are guided by the inscriptions on the body. They should be legible and not upside down.

On the one hand, this is quite logical. But in reality, there is not much difference. This is not reflected in the regulatory documents.

Therefore, mount it the way you feel comfortable doing it. For example, focus on the incoming cable.

Phase left or right

Further, all that remains is to connect the cores to the outlet itself and install it inside. Here you can encounter the following point, which also causes disputes and contradictions among electricians.

Where exactly in the outlet to connect the wires? If everything is clear with the earth, for it there is a place in the middle, then where to start zero and phase?

On the left contact or on the right? Each electrician does this at his own discretion. Because, again, in the rules, there is no clear indication of where the phase should be connected to the outlet.

For example, it would be wrong for sockets in the hall, put the phase on the right terminal, and in the bedroom - on the left. If you have already connected one according to some scheme, connect all the others in the same way.

As for the colors of the connected cores, then it is already necessary to comply with the current standard.

Use the fixing screws on the sides to pre-fasten. Next, with a compact level of an electrician, check the horizontalness of the installation.

If everything is fine, tighten the screws completely. After that, do not forget to tighten two more internal fixing screws.

When they are tightened, the legs extend, with which the socket clings to the inner walls of the socket box.

In high-quality and expensive specimens, manufacturers make such paws double on each side.

All that remains is to install the front panel and overlay frame.

For some brands, such as Legrand, overhead frames are interchangeable.

That is, the fastening mechanism itself remains in the socket, and the plug-in element can be changed. For example, instead of the usual model with curtains, put a waterproof one (for the bathroom), or vice versa.

Another point concerns frames. If you are installing an outlet block, then keep in mind that not all brands have a square front panel. Most often it is rectangular.

And this means that you will not be able to insert it into a decorative frame in any way.

For example, to rotate 90 degrees, you will have to pick out a fastener with snaps from the frame, and also turn it at a right angle.

Only after that, everything is fixed without problems.

Thus, the same frame can be placed both in a vertical block of sockets and in a horizontal one.

Today, socket blocks are widely used. This device includes several sockets for connecting to a network. Previously, blocks of 2 connectors were popular, but now blocks with more than 2 connectors have already gained popularity. Such blocks are mainly popular in those places where it is necessary to connect more than 2 devices at the same time. Below we will find out what connection methods are, what are the intricacies of connecting the blocks and consider the socket blocks in more detail.

Installing an outlet block: the main options

By design, the socket block differs from a conventional socket, only in the number of connectors into which devices can be connected.

Such a block consists of a plastic case and an inner part, which is represented by contacts and terminals to which springs for plugs are attached. Many modern blocks also have grounding contacts, which increase the safety of the system and reduce the voltage in the block from connected devices. Socket blocks can be of 2 types.

Namely:

Blocks for open wiring. They are mounted on the wall using a special socket mount, which is shaped like a plate.
Blocks for concealed wiring. They are mounted in the wall, the same glass as a regular outlet.

There are also many other types of socket blocks.

The most practical of these blocks is the retractable block.

Such blocks can be easily mounted in a countertop or in a cabinet. They are put forward in the required quantity for use. Such a block performs the same functions as wall-mounted blocks.

What other sockets can you assemble and connect for your kitchen?

It could be:

triple;
Two in a frame;
Triple;
Quadruple;
The internal socket with the centers having sockets.

All this will perfectly complement one switch or several. Installation with sufficient experience will not take much time, the main thing is to make the right connection, which will fit into the socket. If you know how to correctly connect the entire structure together and connect it to the wires, then most of the work has already been done.

Socket blocks are mainly installed in the kitchen. They are placed at the desktop, at a height of 10 cm from the table surface or inside the kitchen set at a height of 50 cm from the floor. Such blocks are practical if you use powerful appliances in an amount of more than 3 pieces, for example, an extractor hood, a slow cooker and a refrigerator.

In other rooms, they are also used, for example, to connect a computer and a TV at the same time.

Also, socket blocks can be used for bathrooms, but it is necessary to purchase blocks with a moisture-resistant housing. Install them in these situations at a distance of at least 50 cm from the water supply.

Triple socket: how to connect

Connection of the block of sockets from 3 pieces, is carried out by a loop method. This method involves connecting all three groups of the unit to the same power line. The creation of loop lines is designed to connect devices with a capacity of not more than 16 amperes in total.

Nowadays, the connection of the socket block is carried out by combining, such a combination is based on a parallel circuit.

This connection method is actively used in European countries, and in our country it is used to provide a separate powerful line for consumers.

Such a line as parallel involves the connection of two separate cables from the switchboard.

Namely:

One cable is sent in the form of a loop and feeds 4 sockets from a block of 5 connectors;
Another cable is connected separately to the 5th connector of the socket group, which will be used for more powerful devices.

This method is great to use, since the 5th single point is independent of all the others that are nearby.

The main disadvantage of such a connection scheme is the increased cable consumption and the cost of an electrician.

The usual way to connect the socket block and the loop method can be either closed or open. The hidden method involves gouging a channel for cable laying in the wall, and the open method is performed by laying cables on the wall surface.

How to connect a triple socket: preparatory work

The method of wiring installation depends entirely on the material from which the structure is made. The walls of the building can be monolithic concrete, brick or erected from wood.

Also, the installation method depends on your plans, that is, you plan to hollow out the wall or you will conduct wiring along the wall surface.

When starting installation work, the first thing to do is turn off the power in the area where the work will be carried out. In the houses of the old type, automatic machines are not installed for each of the rooms, so in this case it is necessary to unscrew the plugs. To perform the work, you also need some material and tools.

Namely:

Wires for jumpers, a bracket for fixing the block and the block itself;
Cable for laying wiring to the place where the block will be located, banks for sockets and connecting blocks;
Alabaster and putty;
Perforator, which in the kit has a drill bit D 70;
Roulette construction ruler and marker for marks;
Construction level and wiring tool kit; spatula and a container for making a solution.

Stopping the choice, on some socket block, should be based on the quality of the product and on the possibility of connecting a separate conductor.

The crown for the puncher must be selected, starting from the material from which the wall is built. Nozzles for working on concrete and, for example, on gypsum, differ in terms of operation and, of course, in cost.

Installation of the electrical part: how to assemble a socket

All work that will be carried out on or near cables must begin by turning off the power in this area. This rule should be followed not only by a novice master, but also by a real professional.

Installation work on wiring must be carried out in the following order:

It is necessary to lay a wire in the channel that you made for the cable, one of the ends of the cable must be led out to the switchboard, and the other to the installed outlet bank;
Next, we disassemble the socket block and separate the front panel and loosen the bolts that are designed to press the cable contacts;
We install jumpers between all the contacts of the connectors, that is, we install white wires on all phases in turn and in the same way we install blue wires on zero connectors;
We connect the part for connecting the block to the wiring and place it in the bank for the socket and, accordingly, fix the block in the bank;
Next, we carry out communications in the dividing shield and connect the wire, but do not forget to isolate the connection points;
We turn on the voltage supply and use the indicator to check the performance of the socket block;
If everything works, then we install the front of the block in its place and check the functioning of all connectors using any household appliance.

After that, we complete the wiring by closing the strobe in the wall and close the junction box with a lid. Since we used jumpers to connect all the connectors, this turned out to be a cable.0.00 (0 Votes)

Performing routine household duties is greatly facilitated by numerous technical devices and equipment. "Indefatigable workers" illuminate the premises, wash, whip, bake, wash dishes instead of us. However, just buying them is not enough, the equipment needs to be correctly connected, agree.

Remember how many negative emotions a triggered machine causes, which disconnected the line due to overload at an extremely inopportune moment. A damaged boiler, computer, refrigerator gives quite a bit of pleasure. But the listed troubles can be tritely prevented and generally excluded, in which we are happy to help.

To do this, you just need to find out how the parallel and serial connection of sockets for home appliances is made, in which cases the "loop" and "star" schemes are used. This article will acquaint you with this very useful information.

Today, sockets are connected in two ways: in the first, a separate electrical wiring line is equipped for each point, in the second, several points are connected to one branch at once.

The type of sockets to be installed is closely related to the type of wiring: whether single-phase sockets are used, equipped with or without grounding, or three-phase devices are installed to power devices that operate on a 380-volt network.

The vast majority of technical devices that need to be connected to the power supply are located or confined to the kitchen and bathroom:

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Daisy-chaining is chosen if it is necessary to power electrical outlets of the same group. These groups are formed in accordance with the location of appliances around the house.

Sockets with separate lines are the only right option for servicing powerful household appliances such as a washing machine or electric stove

The method involves the connection of all elements to a common power line of electrical wiring.

In order to nullify the risk of disabling several points at once, the masters recommend including no more than two or three outlets in one system. This point is clearly spelled out in SP 31-110-2003: it is allowed to connect up to three additional electrical receivers with a loop.

A significant "minus" of such a scheme is that if one of the cores is accidentally damaged at the point of contact, all the elements following it stop working.

The only condition is that the total current load does not exceed twice the value of the operating rated current of the first (head) power receiver.

But, in any case, the circuit created in this way is designed for a load whose total indicator does not exceed 16A. If the operating conditions are not observed, there is a high probability of creating emergency situations.

When connecting sockets, it is not at all necessary to use a clean type of wiring. With the right approach, they can be combined, for example, bring the power cable to. And after it, send one cable in the form of a loop, and bring the other separately to the power point of powerful equipment in the house.

The number of power lines laid from the shield depends on how many wiring routes are supposed to be laid.