How to make a drywall arch? Arch in the apartment with your own hands. Step by step instructions with photo

One way to increase living space is to remove doors. But it is not always possible or willing to destroy the walls. Then the former doorway is made out in the form of an arch. Another option for using arched openings is to divide a long corridor into zones, breaking up too simple geometry. When repairing on their own, drywall arches are most often made: they are the easiest to do with your own hands.

Types of arches

Interior or corridor arches can have a different shape. They differ mainly in the shape of the upper part and sometimes in the way they are connected to the vertical parts. Their main types are shown in the photo.

This group lacks one of the most popular lately - the semi-arch. They have a rounded corner on one side only, on the other it remains straight. Hence the name - semi-arc. It looks good in modern interiors: minimalism, hi-tech, maybe in art deco.

The classic is distinguished by the correct shape of the top. This is strictly a semicircle, the radius of which is equal to half the width of the doorway. This view looks good with an opening height of at least 2.5 m. It fits well into any interior, but looks best in a long corridor, or instead of the front door to the kitchen.

The arched opening in the Modern style is distinguished by a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical components of the opening. It looks good if the walls and ceiling have a more or less simple design. Looks great on the site of the former balcony door, good at the entrance to the office.

The arch of the “Romance” style is rather just rounded corners (mostly masters call it that). It looks good with a large width and not the greatest height.

The "romantic" shape is good with a large width and small height

The shape of the "ellipse" is very close to the "romantic". It differs only in greater curvature in the middle part. Also suitable for low and wide openings. It just looks a little softer.

A trapezoid is a non-standard design consisting of broken lines. It is hard to play up in the interior, therefore it is used infrequently: for some non-standard designs.

One of the design options is a trapezoid

It is very similar to a regular opening, but in fact it is, only without a door leaf. For greater originality, it is often accompanied by wooden carved elements in the form of columns on the sides. In this form, it is good for classic interiors, as well as ethnic style - Greek or Roman, depending on the type of columns.

For decoration in modern styles, another example is used - next to the main arch, smaller portals are located. This technique allows you to "beat" a simple form.

Another version of the arch "portal"

Before you start making an arch, you need to decide on its parameters. select the type, and then the options: where it will start from, and what the radius of curvature will be. It can be a really sharp bend, or it can just be some rounding of the corners.

To understand how your chosen shape will look, you can cut a template out of cardboard and attach it to the doorway. Rate the effect. If everything suits you, you can make a blank according to this template. But only one - for one of the sides of the opening. The second must be done in place, otherwise it will turn out crooked.

Step-by-step instructions with photos: the fastest way

Do-it-yourself drywall arches are made in different ways. This takes the minimum amount of time. Having decided on the form, we proceed to installation. On the prepared opening - cleaned of peeling plaster and relatively leveled, we fix the frame according to the size of the future arch. It is made from a profile for drywall or a dry wooden block of a suitable size. Sometimes, if the wall is narrow, you can only pick up wood.

To begin with, we cut out a rectangle from drywall according to the size of the future arch, find its middle, mark it, and then temporarily screw it into place. We retreat from the edge of 12.5 mm - the thickness of the drywall sheet. If the adjacent walls are already plastered, add a couple more millimeters to the putty so that the surface can be leveled.

Now we take a piece of a profile or a hard corner, set aside half the width of the opening from one edge. At this place in the corner we make a hole, insert a carnation into it. We stick this nail into the middle of the doorway marked by us earlier on the sheet. It turns out a kind of compass, with which it is easy to draw a perfect line.

Arc delineator

By changing the height of the mount, you can get a more or less high arch. If you need a flatter curve, increase the length of the "compass".

Having removed the sheet, we cut out the arc along the outlined contour. This can be done with a special drywall file, a metal saw with a fine tooth for a smoother edge, an electric jigsaw (there will be a lot of dust). If the cut is not very even, we level it with sandpaper fixed on a grater. With this device we achieve a perfectly even curve of the shape we need. The cut out fragment of the arch - the side wall - is again fixed in place.

If everything is smooth, there are no distortions or irregularities, on the other side of the opening we attach the same drywall sheet as a few steps earlier - a rectangle or a square - depending on the shape. It must be fixed strictly vertically. Now transfer the shape of the arch to it. We take a square, at a right angle and with one side we press against the drywall, on which we transfer the arch, with the other side - to the arch. Having set the square perpendicularly, we mark a point with a pencil. We make such points along the entire arc. The more often they are made, the easier it will be to draw a line and the match will be more accurate - there will be less grinding.

Why is it so difficult and not just to make a copy of the first sheet? Because few openings are symmetrical. As a result, it is very problematic to install the second sheet so that the lines of the arch coincide.

Having noted all the points, we remove the sheet, draw a line, cut it out along it. We mount in place. Now again we take a trowel with sandpaper and now we level both edges until they completely match. One point - the trowel should be wider than the opening so that both walls of the arch are captured in one pass.

We measure the length of the arc, cut out a piece of the profile of the same length, make notches on the walls every 3-4 cm. This tape will need to be fixed along the arch of the arch from one side and the other.

We fasten it to self-tapping screws, carefully, pressing the profile and holding it with a bar, and not with your fingers: it is elementary to get into your fingers with a self-tapping screw. By the way, you need to work with a cut profile with gloves. If not, you will cut your hands for sure.

By the way, the back of the profile can be set along the edge - it’s easier to work, and then the joint will still have to be sealed. Screw the strip to the other side in the same way.

This is a bottom view - profiles are attached to the sides

There is a second way to attach the profile - to put it on a quick-setting universal glue, such as liquid nails. This method is acceptable if the width of the opening is small. With a large thickness of the arch, the adhesive may not withstand the mass of drywall, which will be attached from below.

The next step is to attach the jumpers. First, the depth of the arch is lost, 1-1.5 cm is subtracted from it. This will be the length of the jumpers. Cut pieces of a profile of this length.

Jumpers are cut from the same profile

In the places where the jumpers are attached, the “petals” are cut off, the prepared fragment is installed and fixed. It should not rest against the walls, it is located approximately 5 mm from the back. Jumpers are needed to make the design more rigid, otherwise it “walks” when pressed.

Next, from the drywall, you need to cut a rectangle that will cover the structure from below. Its width is determined simply - from the outer edge of one sheet of plasterboard, to the outer edge of the second sheet. The length is measured with a flexible tape (it can be tailor-made) or a tape measure with an assistant. We fasten this sheet with screws to the arch frame. The sheet has to be bent, and how to do this, read a little lower - towards the end of the article.

Arched opening made of drywall: the second method (photo report)

This method is good if the thickness of the partition is small: try attaching the profiles if the gap between them is several centimeters, and then attach the jumpers. It all starts the same way: the first wall of the arch is cut out, fastened and transferred to the second sheet.

After the width of the gap between the two sheets, wooden crossbars are cut out, which are attached along the edge of the arch to self-tapping screws.

The cut-out strip of drywall is fixed, starting from one side. To make it more convenient, you can fix it with clamps, since the thickness of the wall is small. When attaching the strip, you can focus on the screws with which the bars were screwed. That way you'll hit the crossbar for sure.

Then it remains only to fix a special perforated corner along the corner and level the irregularities.

A corner is attached along the vault of the arch, everything is puttied

It is also more convenient to level the dried putty along the arch of the arch with the entire plane of sandpaper fixed on a grater. It is unpleasant that dust falls into the eyes, so it is almost impossible to work without glasses.

How to make an arch instead of a door: the third method - typesetting

Another way to make drywall arches with your own hands is stacking. The vault is broken into segments and assembled from pieces that create close to the required curvature.

They are attached to putty, diluted with a mixture of PVA and water. Such a batch dries quickly, so first we cut the plates and try them on. It can be folded on the table, only the vault will turn upside down, but it will allow you to evaluate how correctly the plates are assembled.

Then the plates begin to be attached to the opening, for reliability, periodically reinforcing with self-tapping screws. Washers are placed under the heads - so as not to push through the cardboard. Remove excess putty immediately. If it gets stuck, it's impossible to tear it off. The finished surface is primed to improve adhesion (adhesion), and then puttied, leveling the arch. To make it easier to display, you can use a template attached on both sides.

Making sharp bends using this technology is not easy, and for rounded corners and semi-arches it is a great way to do without profiles.

How to bend drywall

One important detail: standard wall drywall does not bend well. For curved surfaces, a thin one was specially invented - 6 and 6 mm thick. This bent part is easier to make from it. With a slight curvature, such a thin sheet can be bent easily and without tricks. If there is no desire to buy thin GVL, there are two ways to bend the standard one.

First- take a needle roller and roll the cut segment well on one side. You need to roll with effort so that the plaster breaks. Then the leaf is wetted with water and left for two to three hours. After such procedures, it should bend well. Take it, fix it on one side, and gradually pressing it against the arch frame, bend it, screwing it gradually along the edges with self-tapping screws. The method is not bad, only with a lack of experience and insufficient processing of gypsum, the sheet may burst. You will either have to mask the gap later, or start over.

Second way to bend drywall: on one side, make notches with a knife about every 4-5 cm. The notches should cut the paper. Such a strip is also gradually fixed, breaking the gypsum as necessary. It bursts along the incision lines from a light pressure.

Related videos

Starting a large-scale cosmetic or even a major overhaul with a complete change in the interior, the owners often want to bring many interior design ideas to life. One of them may be the transformation of an ordinary rectangular doorway into an arched one. If you figure out how to make a drywall arch, then it is quite possible to install it yourself.

The arch can influence the structure of the entire interior design solution, and an additional decorative overlay of a certain style will set the design of the entire room.

Having studied the detailed instructions for installing the arch, having prepared all the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to make an arch from a rectangular doorway in just one day.

It should be noted that an arch made using the same technology can transform not only a doorway, but also wider passages that divide large rooms into zones.

Materials and tools for the manufacture and installation of arches

In order to bring a bored doorway to a new state and get a neat aesthetic arch, you need to prepare the following materials:

Gypsum board GKL with a thickness of 9 ÷ 12 mm.

Metal galvanized profile or wooden beam for the manufacture of the frame.
Perforated metal corner for strengthening the joints of drywall planes. A fiberglass mesh is also quite suitable for this process.

Self-tapping screws for fastening drywall and perforated corners to metal profiles.
Gypsum-based putty - rough (starting) and finishing.

For installation, the following tools must be available:

Electric jigsaw and drill.
Ruler, construction square, tape measure and pencil.
Grinder or metal shears .
Screwdriver.
Construction knife.
Roller with metal spikes.
A flexible bar that will help create a smooth arch shape.
Spatula and grater for working with putty.
Sponge, water container, thick soft cloth (you can use an old terry towel).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Taking measurements and preparing structural elements

Before starting the manufacture of arched elements, it is necessary to measure the opening, where the arch will be mounted. Its width and the desired vertical distance are measured, from top to bottom, on the side walls of the opening. These parameters will determine how rounded the arch will be.

In addition, it is necessary, starting from the thickness of the drywall, to determine the depth of its installation, since it must be fixed at the same level with the plane of the wall - it must be drowned deep into the doorway.

From the corners of the doorway, you need to retreat deep into a distance that will be equal to the thickness of the drywall and make the appropriate markings by drawing the lines for installing frame profiles.
According to the obtained parameters of the size of the opening, with the help of a grinder or scissors for metal, segments of a metal profile are cut - two for fixing horizontally and four for fixing on the side walls of the doorway. They are installed along the previously marked lines, leaving room for drywall.

If the walls of the opening are made of brick or built of concrete, holes are drilled directly through the metal profile in the wall with a drill (perforator), where plastic dowels are hammered into which the fixing screws will be screwed.

On this structural element - the frame, drywall parts will be attached.

The next step is to mark and cut two drywall panels according to the previously obtained dimensions. They must fit exactly into the doorway between the walls.
Further, on these panels it is necessary to draw and then cut out two arched details from them. In this case, you need to act very precisely, since by making the wrong markup of the arc, you can easily get an ugly arch skewed to the side.
Curvilinear "trajectory" cutting, that is, the arcuate part of the arch itself can be marked in different ways, and all of them are equally accessible.

First way

The markup is done as follows:

- First, the panel is laid on a flat horizontal surface.

- Then, on the upper horizontal and on both vertical sides, the thickness of the metal profile, already fixed in the opening on the walls, is marked. Usually it is 50 mm. These points are used to draw straight lines parallel to the edges of the panel;

- To draw a semicircle, a pencil is taken and a piece of inelastic cord, which is tied to the pencil so that it rotates freely in this loop.

Homemade "compass" applies the necessary arc of the arch

A self-tapping screw is screwed in the center of the circle. Then a cord is attached to it, so that the sharpened pencil lead falls on the intersection point of the lines drawn earlier, parallel to the left and right edges with the bottom edge of the panel. It turns out a kind of compass, capable of drawing circles of the diameter required in this case.

The markup can be transferred to the second panel simply by copying from the first.

Second way

For the second method of marking the line of the arched arc, you will need a flexible plastic bar, a pencil and two pairs of hands.

- First you need to determine what height the curvilinear part of the arc will have at the highest point. To do this, the bar is applied to the door opening between the profiles fixed on it. One end of the bar must be attached to bottom edge of the profile, fixed on the left side wall of the opening, its highest point on the bend should touch the midpoint of the horizontally fixed profile, and the third touch point of the bar will be bottom edge of the profile on the right wall.

- At the last point of contact with the profile, a mark is made on the bar - it will determine the length of the very arc that will determine the curvilinear cut section.

- Further, the same is done on the drywall panel, where, just as in the first version, 50 mm are already marked along the edges. One of the masters holds the bar so as to align its beginning and the mark made with the lines, and the second one draws the border of the arched semicircle along it.

- Then, the marked area is cut with a jigsaw.

Third option

The third option is a template of an arched section made on hard cardboard according to the dimensions taken from the door. It can also be marked with a homemade "compass" made of cord and pencil.

- The finished template is placed on a drywall panel, its contour is outlined with a pencil, and then the part to be removed is cut out with a jigsaw.

- The template will not allow you to make a mistake and the semicircle will be perfectly even.

The next step is preparing a metal profile for the curved parts of the frame, on which the lower part of the cut plasterboard panels will be fixed. To cut off the profile segment of the desired length, you can use the very flexible bar on which the mark of the length of the arc forming the arched vault is made.

You need to prepare two such segments of the profile. Then, cuts are made on them with metal scissors or a grinder, thanks to which it will be easy to bend the profile into an arc with the desired bending radius.

It should be especially noted that if the arch will have a small thickness, then sometimes one wide metal profile with made on German notches to secure German two panels on both sides. The profile must be recessed inside the arch to the thickness of the drywall used, since later the lower arch bar will be attached to this particular curvilinear part of the frame.

The remaining elements will be in the course of the installation work - usually there are no particular difficulties with them.

Installation of the frame base of the arch

Metal frame made of galvanized profile

Installation of the arch begins with the installation of drywall elements with cut out semicircles, which are fixed in the doorway on metal profiles screwed into it.

To fix drywall use special screws and a screwdriver.

These elements are fixed on both sides of the doorway.

Further, a notched and bent metal profile is screwed from the inside of the cut out arched opening. When carrying out work, it is necessary to hold the profile with one hand, pressing it exactly in the shape of an arch.

This part is screwed first to one side, and then to the second.

The frame will not have the proper rigidity and completeness of the structure if it is not installed between the metal arched elements of perpendicular sections of the profile. They will connect the plasterboard walls of the arch to each other. These jumpers are installed in several places of the arched structure.

To fix the jumpers on the profile, self-tapping screws with wide caps and a sharper nose are used.

Installation of a wooden frame arch

If the manufacture of a frame from a metal profile seemed too complicated, then you can mount it from wood.

To do this, you need to prepare bars measuring 20 × 20 mm - to fix on drywall, and 30 × 30 mm - to fix on opening walls.
Further, an arch is marked on the drywall, sawn out, and then wooden bars with ends arranged in a semicircle are screwed onto the inner surface of the element.

A free space of 30 mm is left along the edges of the part, which will be occupied by bars installed in the doorway.
The walls of the doorway are marked in the same way as when attaching a metal profile, only instead of it bars 30 × 30 mm are fixed along the markings
Then, the prepared arched panel is applied to its “regular place” and screwed into the opening, to the wooden bars installed in it.

You can do it differently - fix the bars on the edges of the drywall, and then screw the finished stasis panel to the wall. But in this case, it will not be very convenient to work, especially when the second panel with the arch is fixed, since it will be difficult to climb between the two arched elements with a hand with a screwdriver.

Cable routing

Before proceeding to the manufacture and installation of the lower part of the arch, an electric cable is laid if the opening is provided with lighting.

The contact ends of the cable are fixed to the metal profile approximately in the place where spotlights should be installed. It is best if the cable is enclosed in a plastic corrugated pipe - to avoid accidental damage to the insulation on the sharp edges of galvanized profiles.

When the prepared bottom strip of drywall is installed, it will perfectly cover all the ugliness of the wires.

Fabrication and installation of the lower plasterboard arch panel

When the frame and the front parts of the arch are installed, you can proceed to the manufacture of the lower strip, which will cover the entire unsightly appearance of the frame.

First, the full length of the arcuate bend of the arch and the width of the distance between the installed arched frame parts are measured with a tape measure.

The dimensions are transferred to drywall, and a rectangular strip of the required dimensions is cut out of it.

Next, the drywall strip needs to be bent into an arch, however, the material is hard and brittle, so it can easily be broken, ruining the part. In order for the process etc went smoothly, you can use two methods to bend this material:

1. The prepared part is marked along its entire length into transverse strips 50 mm wide.

Further, cuts are made along the marked lines, about half the depth of the drywall.
Then the part is carefully bent and immediately, without delay, is screwed to the metal profile, which is located inside the arched structure.

Video: simple drywall arch

2. The second method of bending drywall, in principle, is even simpler than the first, but it will take a little longer, since you have to wait for the material to take the desired shape.

First, a spiked roller is forcefully passed along the drywall strip, which pierces the top layer of cardboard with its sharp spikes.

If there is no such roller in the master’s arsenal, you can use a sharp construction knife - with it, cuts of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size are made on the drywall surface, at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other, both in length and in width.

In the next step, the panel, on the side of the punctures, must be moistened with a sponge with water and leaned against the wall, setting the long side vertically.

After about 15 ÷ 20 minutes, the first results can be seen - the panel will begin to bend under its own weight. Then the part is wetted again and left for another 40 minutes.

It is possible, especially for the ideal bend of the arch, to knock down a structure from three boards with the letter P (a kind of conductor) with the dimensions of the place of the doorway where the arch will be installed. Then turn it over, setting it on the horizontal part.

Further, in the same way, having moistened the drywall part with water, it is laid on the legs of an inverted letter P, moistened side up. After 20 minutes, its middle will begin to sag inside the structure. Then, it is moistened again and left for 40 ÷ 60 minutes for complete subsidence to the horizontal bridge of the structure.

By the way, a similar method of bending a drywall strip sometimes allows you to make an arch without a frame at all, as shown in the attached video clip:

Video : giving bending drywall arch

Still wet drywall on a metal profile with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of no more than 100 mm from each other.

The next step is to cut holes in the designated places on this part of the arch, into which, after finishing, it will be possible to install spotlights (if their installation is provided).

Having made holes, you need to pull the cables inside the structure to them, but they should not be completely pulled out of the holes, as the protruding ends of the wires will interfere with the finishing.

arch decoration

Having completed the installation of the frame and sheathing, you can proceed to finishing the arch with putty. Only by closing all the seams and recesses from the heads of the screws with a putty mixture and leveling it, you can get a neat arch.

The puttying process is carried out in three stages:

- the first layer evens out deep flaws;

- the second - displays even forms of the arch;

- the third layer is the finishing one, and with its help the ideal smoothness of the surface is achieved.

However, before taking on the putty, it is recommended to strengthen the corners of the arched openingspecial perforated corner, which will easily take any curvilinear shape.

Fiberglass mesh can be used in place of corners, but it will not give the sharp, even, and reinforced edge that corners can. The installation of the corner is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of 150 ÷ 200 mm from each other.

Next, you can proceed to work with.

For work with drywall, an acrylic or gypsum-based putty is used, designed for interior work.

The acrylic composition can be purchased in ready-made pasty form, while the gypsum mixture is sold as a dry mortar. Mix it immediately before use. The best way to do this is with a mixer attachment, which is attached to a drill.

You need to know that you can not immediately knead a large amount of putty, as it seizes very quickly, so it must be prepared in small portions. There is always an instruction on the packaging of the building material, which must be carefully studied in order to find out the exact “life” time of the prepared composition and the complete drying of the plastered surface.

The first step is to finish the drywall joints and the main walls of the doorway.

The work is carried out with the help of wide and medium-width spatulas. One of them putty putty on the joint, and, as far as possible, smooth it out, comparing the surfaces of drywall and doorway.

Having closed the joints between the drywall and the wall in the doorway, you can immediately close the self-tapping caps on this part of the structure with putty. Carrying out this process, you need to remember that the surface must be perfectly flat, so it is necessary to achieve this particular effect. For this stage of work, you can use a metal trowel, which will immediately cover a large area.

The first layer closes the deep joints of drywall with the wall. Here it is very important to distribute the putty into all the recesses and chips, since it is necessary to bring the seams on the same level with the wall and the arched structure.

Do not apply too thick layers of material, as raw putty can quickly separate from the wall surface. It's okay, if necessary, instead of three, you can put four layers of putty - they will hold on much more reliably than two or three very thick ones.

Applying putty to all wide joints, before it dries, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh should be applied on top. This easy-to-use material can be purchased in any desired width, so strengthening wide gaps will not be a problem.

From the coil, the required length of the mesh is measured, and with the help of a spatula, this tape is then pressed into the putty, stretched and leveled.

The arched bend, trimmed on both sides with a perforated corner, must also be treated with a layer of putty, comparing the surfaces.

If the junction of two drywall planes on the arched opening is reinforced with a fiberglass mesh, then if necessary, it can be cut in some places, since it should lie on the surface perfectly evenly, without waves and folds.

When all seams are sealed and reinforced with reinforcing materials, the first layer is left to dry.
After it dries, it is necessary to go over the surfaces with medium grit sandpaper to level the dried putty. By doing this, you need to try to “knock down” all the sharp protrusions so that they do not interfere with further work. But, at the same time, the structure must be handled very carefully so as not to expose the reinforcing elements.

Aligned joints should be well cleaned of dust with a damp sponge.

Next, you can move on to the second thin layer of finishing putty, which should cover and level all surfaces.
After it dries, the entire structure is cleaned with fine sandpaper (with a grain of about 220).

Before applying the third layer, it is necessary to again carry out measures to clean all joints and smooth surfaces from putty dust.

The final layer should make the arch "clean"

The final coat should make the finish smooth. The putty is applied in a very thin layer, and in this case, a ready-made paste-like material made on an acrylic basis is best suited.

In the process of work, it is necessary to smooth out all the traces left by the spatula.

When finished, the structure is left to dry for at least 8 ÷ 12 hours. The level of dryness of the material can be determined by its color - it should brighten to pure white.
Next, there is a grinding process, and it is better to carry it out with a special grinding machine, on which fine-grained sandpaper (grain 280 ÷ 400) is fixed, and then a soft polishing cloth.

Grinding is carried out until the surface is perfectly smooth.

After the arch has been sanded, you can paint it if it was planned. After painting in the doorway, special built-in

Making and installing an arch is not such a complicated process. The main thing is to figure out the little things, how each of the stages of work goes, and having understood all the nuances, you can purchase materials and get down to business.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

And for those who have already filled their hands, we can offer a more difficult task:

Video: monumental arch with columns

It is far from always necessary to separate rooms with closing doors, sometimes it is much more preferable and more beautiful than an open opening in which a spectacular door arch is built with your own hands.

Beautiful do-it-yourself arch

The passage from the hallway to the living room or from the library to the office can look much more original than the usual door leaf, hung on metal hinges that regularly require lubrication from creaking. In particular, the opening can be left completely open, which will provide convenience, due to the absence of obstacles, and give aesthetic completeness to any design. Proponents of monumentality for the construction of the arch usually choose a brick, since it can be used to finish the opening with a hint of the Middle Ages, with a keystone and other related touches.

However, more practical people prefer simplicity and efficiency, preferring chipboard and drywall. That's just from the last arch with your own hands can be made the fastest, but how - this master class will tell you. First you need to decide what type of arch you want to see in the interior wall (this can be not only a door, windows can also be made in the same style). There are 4 main options: classic, modern, ellipse and portal.

The first type includes arches, the upper curved part of which is a regular semicircle. The second type in its upper part looks like a small segment of a semicircle, the radius of which is much more than half the width of the opening. The elliptical version does not require any extra comments, it resembles an egg in shape. And the portal is an ordinary opening, only slightly larger than the standard size and ennobled with decorative trim. However, we will consider the usual classical type.

How to make an arch with your own hands - practical instruction

The most common and easily processed material today is drywall, it is from it that we will build an arched structure. It is most convenient to do this in the gap between the two walls, where the opening is completely absent, that is, the entire clearance from floor to ceiling is available. In extreme cases, before making an arch in the wall with your own hands, in a house or apartment, you can hollow out a wall above the opening, at the same time expanding it as much as possible. The thing is that we need space for mounting aluminum profiles. Having determined the scope of work, we make an arch with our own hands in order to ennoble the passage between the rooms.

Do-it-yourself massster class arch - step by step diagram

Step 1: Markup

We measure on the inside of the opening from both edges a distance equal to the thickness, put marks near the ceiling and near the floor.

With the help of a plumb line and a coated thread, we beat off the lines between the markers. We perform the same operation on the ceiling and floor. If the arch is located in the corner of the room, and one side of it is a transverse wall, we transfer the markings to it indicating the thickness of the drywall sheet.

Step 2: Mounting the rails

Along the lines made with an indent under the skin, we fasten aluminum profiles to the walls and ceiling with self-tapping screws, leaving a gap for wiring if necessary.

During installation, the markings made earlier should remain on the outside of each of the two rows of guides. The vertical details should be duplicated, you will need the "copies" later.

Step 3: Determining the Width of the Arch

On the floor, we measure the required distance from the wall opposite the vertical profiles and put marks on which we then draw a transverse line. This operation is carried out on both sides of the opening. Further, according to the markup, we fasten short profile trimmings to the floor, the length of which should correspond to the distance between the lines along which the vertical guides are screwed.

Step 4: Installing the frame profile

We insert the prepared parts into the trimmed on the floor, identical to the guides mounted on the wall earlier.

The difference is only in the position, we turn the frame metal profiles by 90 degrees, with mounting surfaces to the premises. We fix each with two screws.

At the top, we fix it to a horizontal rail screwed to the ceiling.

Be sure to use a plumb line and a level so that every detail of the frame is level.

Step 5: Trim one side

On the resulting structure, we fasten drywall sawn to size with self-tapping screws, vertical strips are mounted on the sides, for which waste can be used. If there is not enough material for the upper part, you can use a narrow fragment under the ceiling or directly above the opening.

Step 6: Making a compass from improvised means

You most likely do not have at hand (and there is no way to get) a classroom teacher's compass, which is usually used in geometry lessons to draw circles with chalk on a blackboard. Therefore, we propose to make this tool on our own just for our case.

We measure half the width of the opening (we put a marker on the edge of the drywall) and get the radius of the future arched arc. Now we take a rail of a slightly longer length and screw a self-tapping screw from one end a centimeter from the edge. We screw the second same screw exactly at the previously measured distance, determining its position using a construction tape measure.

Step 7: Marking the Arch

If you set a marker by measuring half the width of the span, you can immediately proceed to drawing the arch line, otherwise we apply the tape measure again and find the desired point. A centimeter above the edge, we stick one self-tapping screw of our compass, and with the second we draw an arc from the upper corners of the portal.

Step 8: Shaping the Arch

Using a hacksaw (manual or electric), we cut the drywall along the line and get an arched passage.

It remains to strengthen it, for which we measure the length of the arc from the sawn-off fragment with a construction tape measure and take a profile of the same size (for the speed of the process - a couple). Every 5 centimeters we make cuts in the guides and carefully bend one of the parts along our arch, successively screwing it with screws.

We fasten the curved part to the ceiling profiles with two guides of the appropriate length.

On the sides we fasten strips of drywall

Another fragment, cut along the length of the arc, is abundantly moistened and processed with a needle roller on both sides.

We pause for a few minutes so that the material is slightly saturated with moisture. Then we set the previously cut one vertically, put a strip on it, and it itself slowly bends under its own weight.

When the process stops, we gently help with light pressure on the ends, after which we let the material dry a little and screw it onto the bend of the arch.

In no case should drywall be allowed to soak strongly, since there is a high probability of internal or external defects.

Do-it-yourself arch installation - original solutions

A less common type is a semi-arch, when half of the arc in the highest part rests against the wall. It can be either classic or elliptical, or completely irregular in shape. There is an option called "romance", these arches resemble portals, but have rounded upper corners. Also, those who want something original install trapezoidal arches between the rooms, the upper part of which has the shape of a corresponding geometric figure.

And, finally, a rather curious version of the eastern arch is quite rare, when the upper part of the opening sharply expands into a horizontally oriented oval or ellipse. Do-it-yourself arch installation is possible, whichever option you choose, although the classic one is the most easily doable. However, upon completion of the installation of the structure, you can continue to work, this time in the direction of design.

Today, there are many ready-made solutions for finishing arched openings, for example, wooden or gypsum platbands, semi-columns for the sides of the opening. You can decorate with tiles, artificial or natural stone (if the construction is made of drywall, it is advisable not to abuse the lining, in order to avoid deformation). Also on the inside of the arch, you can mount small shelves for flower pots or figurines.

When choosing an interior in their own house or apartment, people often tend to non-standard options. When it comes to creating doorways, standard sizes do not always fit the overall design of the room. The unusual shape of the passage from room to room deserves attention. However, most people don't know how to make an arch in a doorway.

Questions that concern many owners of private buildings - how to make a door arch, is the work worth the time and effort. This design is suitable for various types of interior. Before choosing an arch for an apartment or a private house, you need to understand its advantages and disadvantages.

The arched design allows you to visually expand the space. The room seems larger due to the lack of standard openings that limit it.
Through the open opening, more air enters the rest of the housing.
It will help to divide a large room into separate zones. For example, you can make a place from the living room for kindling a fireplace, reading books and holding banquets, and also divide the kitchen into a cooking area and a dining area.
The viewing angle is increased. An open opening allows you to monitor the situation in the combined rooms.
Looks unusual and unique.
Asymmetric design is suitable for non-standard design of the room.

A standard rectangular doorway creates a high level of sound insulation. Arch does not allow to achieve such results.
If an arch separates the kitchen from the living room, cooking odors will seep into other rooms. Because of the open space, it is impossible to retire.

The style of the interior needs to be thought out in advance so that the arched opening fits into the overall picture.

Types of door arches

Before you make an arch in the doorway with your own hands, you need to understand. You can build a non-standard passage from different materials of various shapes.

Construction type:

Classical. It is made in apartments with high ceilings (more than three meters), cottages.
Modern. The type of arch that is used for specific types of interior. The corners of the rounded parts may be sharp.
Romance. Used for wide openings. The design, made in the style of romance, is a horizontal surface with two sharp corners.

Types of materials for the manufacture of arches

After studying the types of structure, it is necessary to deal with the materials used. Below are the most popular ones with which you can make an arched opening. In addition to them, plastic, polystyrene, semicircular brick, laminate are used. When using these materials, it is important to carry out the installation correctly.

From drywall

From this material, the arch can be given any shape or a niche can be constructed. It is important to properly assemble the metal structure and perform further finishing work. (GKL) is attached to the screws with a screwdriver. Seams and holes that appear after fasteners must be covered with plaster and treated with a primer. To increase the strength and durability indicators, builders use a sickle mesh, which is fixed at the joints. Further finishing depends on the wishes.

from wood

This material is suitable for interior decoration in a classic style. Arched structures are sheathed with clapboard. , it is important to leave space between individual elements. The fibrous material expands and shrinks depending on changes in temperature, humidity, physical activity. The gap between the elements must be at least 3 mm.

From plywood

Chipboard, fiberboard and MDF - these materials allow you to make structures of various shapes and decorate the opening in your favorite style. When using MDF and plywood, a frame of an individual shape is made. Sheathing material is cut into measured pieces and fastened to self-tapping screws or finishing nails. From above, the finished structure is covered with two layers of paint and varnish.

Important! Fibreboards should not be installed in rooms with high humidity.

Required Tools

Before starting manufacturing, you need to prepare materials and tools - to assemble a complete set of the required equipment so as not to interrupt the workflow.

Tools:

screwdriver (when using drywall, wood boards);
wood saw or electric jigsaw;
self-tapping screws, finishing nails;
hammer;
roller, spatula, brushes (for further finishing work related to decor).

The list of tools will change, depending on the selected material for the manufacture of the frame and its skin.

Installing an arch in a doorway

Before that, you need to remember a clear sequence of actions.

Marking and determining the width of the arch

Before starting the main construction work, it is necessary to mark the future frame. If the wall is wide, add-ons can be installed. Additionally, work surfaces are leveled with putty (chips and cracks).

Mounting guides

After marking and preparing the working surface, it is required to fix the curved frame. It is advisable to use metal elements. They are fixed on anchor bolts or dowels.

Installing the arch frame

When fixing the frame, it is important to consider the material that will be fixed on top. If it is drywall or wood board, you need to fix the metal profile 10 mm from the edge of the wall. It is important that after installing the selected material and its subsequent finishing, the level of the arch in the do-it-yourself doorway coincides with the wall in which the passage is made.

sheathing

When the frame is installed, it is necessary to sheathe it with drywall, plywood or MDF. To do this, large sheets of material are purchased, from which individual pieces are cut out and fastened with the help of self-tapping screws to the installed frame.

Making an arched arc

At this stage, it is required to install two perforated corners, curved in an arc on both sides of the arch. To bend them into this shape, you need to make cuts on the metal every 5 cm. The corners are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Final touches

After making the frame, sheathing and strengthening the structure with perforated corners or a metal profile, you need to beautifully arrange the resulting structure. Holes that appear after tightening self-tapping screws or other fasteners are covered with plaster. The entire door arch, made by hand, is aligned. Further decorative processing will depend on the design of the walls.

Important! Builders recommend strongly not to highlight the arch against the background of the interior. You can not make bulky structures - they prevent people from moving around in the room.

Before starting construction work, you need to select the material and prepare the tools. In addition to this, it will not be superfluous to listen to the opinion of experienced finishers:

To make the design original, it must be designed differently on both sides.
You can highlight the arch against the general background with the help of an arched arc, which will smoothly flow into the platbands.
In order not to do additional work after the manufacture of the arched passage, it is required to think in advance how communications (wires, pipes) will be laid.
The voids formed between the sheathing and the wall can be filled with insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam).
Patterned decoration allows you to make the arch unusual and versatile.
When working with drywall, special attention must be paid to fasteners. Self-tapping screws should not be screwed in at a right angle, but obliquely. Thus, the service life of the structure will increase. When tightening the screws, do not press hard on the screwdriver.
To align the shape and better fasten the individual parts, the drywall joints are covered with sickle.
Hardware stores sell ready-made kits with arched structures. The package contains the vaults of the arch, plates fixed on the inside of the frame, trim on both sides of the passage, connecting elements. Doborniki can be purchased separately.
Before applying the decorative layer, it is required to cover the working surface with a primer and wait for it to dry completely.
Finishers recommend installing PVC corners on both sides according to the shape of the opening when wallpapering. They will help the decorative coating maintain its integrity and not open from the arch.

The arched opening can be decorated with stencils. They are sold in hardware and art stores. There are examples of works when people decorated the arch in the form of two intertwining trees. With the help of gypsum elements, it is possible to make columns and a vault from platbands and the upper arc. For a change, individual elements are covered with different colors.

The arched opening is considered popular in the design of apartments and cottages. Designs with rounded elements are suitable for a classic interior. You can carry out the work yourself if you carefully study the assembly process and watch the training video on the Internet.