Installation of a warm water floor on a wooden base. Underfloor heating on wooden floors: Finnish technology adapted by FORUMHOUSE craftsmen Do-it-yourself water floors in a wooden house

A heating system is a necessity for every home. When choosing a high-quality and efficient system, you must first select its type. Many experts believe that it is the underfloor heating system that can create a comfortable temperature in the room. The peculiarity of this technology lies in the fact that, first of all, the floor surface and cold layers of air near it are heated. Gradually heating up, the air rises, and the temperature in the room increases.

Source www.epicsta.com

Difference between heat distribution with standard heating and underfloor heating

Experts say that convectors and batteries have a common drawback - a relatively small surface of the heat exchanger. The rapid increase in temperature increases the speed of air flow. It often accumulates a lot of dust. But the warm water floor in a wooden house is characterized by a flat and large heat transfer area. This makes it possible to use a relatively low operating temperature of up to 55 °C. This principle of operation reduces the speed of air flow.

Most often, our compatriots install a water-heated floor from a gas boiler in the house. Most heating devices are characterized by the same principle of operation. They differ from each other in operating temperature and location.

Source olestnicah.ru

A gas boiler heats water, which moves through pipes and heats the floor

Variety of heating systems

Almost every home uses autonomous equipment for heating. All underfloor heating classify according to different criteria:

operating principle;

boiler type;

coolant.

In individual houses can be installed boiler, which uses for its work:

solid fuel;

diesel fuel;

electricity.

In the heating system the coolant can be:

• electricity.

According to the principle of operation, all warm floors can be of infrared or convective type.

Source stroyfora.ru

To make a film underfloor heating, a special film with heating elements glued to it is laid under the floor covering.

Each of the above types has its own advantages and disadvantages. All of them should be taken into account at the design stage. At the same time, experts take into account many different factors.

The most common, affordable and cost-effective in our country is gas heating.

When arranging a warm floor, consider the characteristics of the material from which the structure is made. For example, a tree is characterized by a low thermal conductivity.

Underfloor heating device with liquid coolant

As we know, often in private houses there is a centralized gas supply. Many install double-circuit boilers that provide hot water in the pipeline. In this situation, it is better to choose water as a coolant. But if you do not live in a country house, but only come for the weekend, antifreeze will be the best coolant. In this case, you do not have to drain the water from the system and pipes every time.

There are 2 types of heating system with a liquid heat carrier: open and closed circuit. The difference between these types lies in the design features of the expansion tank.

Source cable-electro.ru

Expansion tank of open type in the heating system

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

An open circuit system consists of a tank that is directly vented to the atmosphere. During heating, the volume of the liquid increases. It can be compensated in a simple way - add the required amount of water to the container. But the system with a closed circuit is characterized by a special design of the expansion tank.

Underfloor heating with liquid heat carrier includes:

boiler and circulation pump;

expansion tank and Mayevsky crane;

distribution unit and safety valve;

pipelines.

The water in the heating system is constantly heated by the boiler, which monitors its temperature. The heated water enters the main collector, and then - to the distribution unit. Here there is a uniform distribution of warm water through all pipes in all rooms. As a result, the temperature throughout the house will be the same. Installation of a water heated floor in a private house should be carried out by a specialist.

Source cable-electro.ru

Expansion tank of closed type in the heating system

Pros and cons of using water floors

Compared to radiators and convectors, water Underfloor heating has many benefits:

• economy;

  aesthetics;

  safety.

A warm floor allows you to evenly warm the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, creating an ideal temperature for human health. On such a floor there are no drafts, it is comfortable to play on it with children.

Due to the low temperature of the coolant, energy consumption is reduced by 20-30%. By installing such a heating system in large rooms with high ceilings, you can save up to 60% by heating the air only 2.5-3 m in height.

This type of heating allows you to carry out various projects for the redevelopment of the premises. There are no radiators, which so often spoil the appearance.

The possibility of injury or burns in contact with the coolant is excluded. Therefore, this heating system is safe even if there are small children in the house.

Source pikucha.ru

Underfloor heating can always be adjusted to a comfortable temperature

The disadvantages include:

cannot be used on landings;

labor-intensive installation of the structure;

the likelihood of a pipeline leak.

Types of pipes used

For floor heating equipment, metal-plastic and plastic pipes can be used. Many plumbers have positively evaluated pipes made of cross-linked polypropylene. They are characterized by a high degree of tightness, resistance to deformation and good thermal conductivity.

When choosing pipes for installing underfloor heating, carefully study their technical characteristics. In particular, pay attention to the suitability of the material for use in heating systems. Be vigilant, because some unscrupulous sellers may sell pipes designed for plumbing. As a result, the floor heating system will be ineffective. Therefore, pay attention to the markings on the pipes. Indicators to be guided by when choosing pipes for installing underfloor heating:

linear expansion (up to 0.025 mm/m);

thermal conductivity (more than 0.43 W/m °C).

You can find out the required number of pipes, taking into account the diameter of the material and the step of its installation.

Source hydrost.ru

When choosing pipes for underfloor heating, there are a number of nuances, so it is better to entrust the choice to professionals

Electric floor heating device

The essence of the operation of an electric underfloor heating is that the conductors that are under load are heated. And the level of temperature rise depends on the resistance of the material. To date, there are 2 ways to install such a heating system: cable and film.

Cable underfloor heating have much in common with water. Just instead of pipes with warm water, an electric cable is laid under the floor. It heats up by passing electricity through it. It is easy to manage such a heating system - it is necessary to adjust the periods of switching on and off the power. In other words, when the room reaches a certain temperature, the system will turn off, and when it cools down, it will turn on.

Pros and cons of electric underfloor heating

Electric underfloor heating in a private house has a large number ofbenefits. The main ones are:

reliability (leaks cannot appear);

noiselessness;

aesthetics;

long service life;

uniform heating of the entire territory;

simple control.

Source pinterest.com

Instead of pipes with water in the electric floor heating, heating cables are used

Flaws this heating system:

the presence of weak electromagnetic radiation (harmless and safe for humans);

high power consumption.

Features of installing a warm floor in a wooden house

In a wooden house, the installation of a warm floor should be carried out correctly. After all, wood has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account. Remember, the temperature of the warm floor in a wooden house should not exceed 30 degrees. Otherwise, the wood will dry out, which will lead to premature failure of their material.

A warm water floor in a wooden house, like an electric one, must be equipped at the construction stage or during a major overhaul - otherwise the installation cost will be very high. All installation and connection work must only be carried out by specialists. Please note that the draft floor must first be insulated.

When equipping an electric underfloor heating, it is recommended to use an armored cable with an outer metal braid. It should also be borne in mind that rodents can damage the cable. And such a braid protects the cable from various external influences.

Source hr.decoratex.biz

Only at the construction stage, the installation of a warm floor will not result in additional costs

You need to connect the electric floor heating system to the mains with the necessary parameters. They are preliminarily installed with devices that protect electrical wiring from short circuits.

Having decided to install a warm water floor in a wooden house with wooden floors, it is necessary to level the surface well. The heating pipes are laid in a special box, which is then covered with boards. The box is made of wood, drywall or other material that will absorb moisture well. After laying the laminate.

System heaters

The construction of a warm floor needs the use of insulation. Experts do not recommend choosing foam. After all, it is in direct contact with the warm floor, the temperature of which can reach 70 ° C. In this case, the foam quickly ages and releases toxic gas. Better pay attention to perlite and ecowool, laying them between the beams.

Using mineral wool, it must first be wrapped in a vapor barrier material. After all, warm air through the gaps can bring its particles into the room from the underground space.

Do you need insulation under a warm floor at all, see the video:

Which warm floor is better for a wooden house - water or electric

No one can accurately answer this question. If you are interested in saving the construction of the structure (the cost of materials and work), then it is better to pay attention to the electric floor. If we compare the cost of an energy carrier, then it is better to pay attention to the installation of water-heated floors in a private house.

Regardless of which type of flooring you choose, remember that the thickness of the wood flooring above the underfloor heating should not exceed 21mm. Wood is a good thermal insulator, which significantly reduces the performance of the heating system.

For a visual comparison between water and electric underfloor heating, see the following video:

Conclusion

Remember, the construction of a high-quality and efficient underfloor heating of any type should be carried out by highly qualified specialists. In this case, you should use high-quality equipment. Do not save on materials, because if a leak is detected, you will need to open the floor and completely change the pipeline or repair the electrical cable.

Consider now the installation of a water-heated floor on a wooden base, whether it be underfloor heating on wooden joists or over wood floor. With such a device for underfloor heating, there is no need to work with concrete, and the system will be ready to start immediately after installation is completed.

In addition, a wooden warm floor is used where it is impossible to make a concrete screed due to the design features of the building (premises). For example, in the example below, a warm floor is installed in a wooden house.

We’ll clarify right away: the connection to the collector, to the boiler and the layout of the underfloor heating loops are the same for a wooden underfloor heating and for a concrete one, so if you haven’t read articles on relevant topics, but immediately got to this page, then it’s better to start from here.

Underfloor heating on wooden logs: the first installation option

There was a wooden floor. Logs were placed on it from a board 50x150 mm with an interval

60 cm. Between the lags they put a heater - mineral wool - 100 mm thick. Insulation - underfloor heating pipes.

In the logs, cuts were made for the passage of the pipe. Possible gaps between the lags and the insulation were foamed (although with the correct distance between the lags, it is not necessary to foam; if the insulation is mineral wool, then the distance between the lags should be 1.5-2 cm less than the width of the mineral wool sheet). Plywood was placed on top of the logs, on which there was already some kind of finishing material.

The weakness of the shown device: there is an air gap between the pipe and plywood, which does not need to be: it worsens the thermal conductivity of the floor.

Underfloor heating on wooden logs: the second installation option

More laborious, but also more reliable. Lags are set. Between them is a polystyrene, mineral wool or the like insulation. A base is spread on the logs - plywood, OSB, chipboard, etc. (but not plasterboard, which tends to crumble if you constantly walk on it).

Further, plates with rounded corners are cut out of chipboard - for making grooves into which the pipe will be laid. The width of the plates depends on the required pipe pitch, and the thickness is 20 mm. These plates are screwed to the previously arranged base with an interval equal to the diameter of the pipe plus 3 ... 4 mm. Between the plates there are strips of foil 20 ... 25 cm wide - a reflective layer. And - pipe:

To enhance the reflective effect, metal sheets, either aluminum or galvanized steel, are laid over the pipes. On top - laminate, but not parquet!

The figure does not show a layer of sheet material on top of the log, but it is possible without it, although it is more reliable with it. Why? With a large distance between the lags, boards 20 ... 25 mm thick can sag under the weight of furniture and people. (Especially if these are not boards, but chipboard strips.) With thicker boards, the distance from the pipes to the floor surface increases, which makes the floor have to be heated more strongly ...

Such a base is not suitable for parquet, because it is very mobile and flexible. For parquet, a concrete base is needed, and the substrate (plywood) is firmly screwed to the concrete base. Good for laminate.

The second option is more suitable for laying the pipe with a “snake”, and the photos illustrating this installation option are given below.

Underfloor heating on wooden logs: the third installation option

The most labor intensive. As in the 2nd version, there is a heater between the lags. Next, a board with a thickness of 50 mm and a width equal to the pipe pitch is taken. The board is sanded on all sides. A groove is made in one corner of the board (yellow is the cut material; blue circle is a pipe):

- and in this groove we first put the foil (with an overlap on the top of the board), and then the pipe. We fasten the foil with a stapler to the boards, which before that are attached to the logs close to each other. We lay the floor covering on top of the boards.

Underfloor heating on wooden logs: the fourth option

For the installation of a wooden underfloor heating, you can use various ready-made solutions produced by companies specializing in products for underfloor heating. For example, reflective plates with grooves for pipe laying:

The plates are mounted on top of the logs, the distance between which must be determined in advance by the width of these plates.

Or a heater with a metallized layer applied to it:

Here, too, there are grooves for pipes. We put the insulation on the corners, specially fixed for this along the upper edges of the log.

Underfloor heating on wooden logs: the fifth option

Another technology.

A raised floor spreads between the lags:

In the photo there is a raised floor made of boards, but this is not important, both OSB and chipboard, etc. are suitable.

We put a heater between the beams, on it there are sheets with bosses flush with the upper edges of the log:

Grooves are made where the pipe crosses the logs, and the pipe in these places is enclosed in a corrugation so that the pipe does not rub against the tree due to linear expansions. On top of the pipe are reflective metal sheets. Oh, and a clean finish.

Underfloor heating on wooden logs: the sixth option

Another option: you can lay the underfloor heating pipes directly on the insulation (only if the insulation is not cotton wool, but polystyrene) between the lags. So that the pipes are located below the top of the lag. And fill the space between the lags with gypsum mortar:

However, with a strong desire to do without wet processes, instead of a gypsum mixture, you can simply fill it with dry, clean sand. Gypsum or sand will smooth out one of the disadvantages of a wooden underfloor heating: the lack of a heat accumulator, which is a concrete screed in a concrete system.

(I have given six options for installing a wooden underfloor heating, but this does not mean that it is limited to them; perhaps you will come up with your own or make additions / improvements to those shown; the main thing is that the principles of operation of a warm water floor are not violated)

Installing a wooden underfloor heating step by step

Now consider the installation of a warm water floor on wooden logs in detail, clearly and step by step. (This is just one of the options.)

In the photo below we see logs for laying a wooden floor:

The logs are laid in increments of 0.6 m. Galvanized supports can be used to fasten the log, there are a lot of types of which are now produced:

The convenience of using such supports is also that they can first be fixed with self-tapping screws or / and nails, setting all the supports to the level, and only then the logs themselves can be attached to the supports.

After fixing the lag, a draft floor is laid from below - in order to put a layer of thermal insulation on it:

We lay a waterproofing film on the subfloor (it can be clearly seen in the following photos); then - thermal insulation:

In the photo above, a mineral slab on a basalt base in two layers (100 mm) is used as thermal insulation. A board of 40 mm is laid on top of the thermal insulation (it is not necessary to lay this board, it is possible to lay chipboard strips on the logs (chipboard thickness 20-22 mm), between which there will be a floor heating pipe).

The next photo shows the stacked strips of chipboard with a step of 20 cm (because the calculations turned out to be such a step between the pipes):

Chipboard strips are laid in the following sequence: first, strips are laid along the walls, after which we already lay strips over the entire area. The corners of the strips are cut - for laying pipe bends:

Between the chipboard strips, as can be seen in the photo, a gap is left in which the pipe will be laid.

There are special aluminum sheets with extruded profiles for the pipe. Such sheets are needed as heat reflectors. Not everywhere they are on sale, so you can get by with sheets of galvanized iron 0.5 mm thick, which can be found in any building materials store.

The photo below shows the galvanized steel strips referred to in the paragraph above, already attached to the chipboard:

Galvanization is attached to chipboard with ordinary nails. The galvanized strips are bent in such a way that grooves are obtained, into which the metal-plastic pipe is then laid.

The figure below shows the profile along which the galvanized strip is bent:

We see that a supply and return pipe is laid along the wall, and “kalachi” of the warmest floor are laid next to it:

When designing, it is important to take into account all the gaps that should be left between the laid pipes, and then fasten the chipboard strips taking into account these gaps.

Another important point is to lay the pipe so that it does not protrude above the floor level and does not interfere with the laying of the final coating later. As you understand, it is for this that the pipe fits into the grooves of the chipboard strips, and the thickness of the chipboard is taken more than the diameter of the pipe.

In the following photo, the finished wooden water-heated floor system:

The next step is to lay plywood on this floor and finish the floor on top (but first the system should be pressed: filled with water and kept under pressure).

Only two things can be said about laying plywood: moisture-resistant plywood is selected with a thickness of at least 10 mm, and a gap of 5-10 mm is left between plywood sheets (the gap can be filled with sealant, but you can not fill it; you need a gap due to the possible expansion of plywood - wood is known to absorb moisture - even moisture resistant, the same applies to OSB).

Here is the whole installation. wooden underfloor heating system- as you can see, there is nothing super complicated.

Installation of a warm water floor on a wooden base: step by step

Installation of a warm water floor on a wooden base: step-by-step instructions with a photo for dummies. Six options for installing wooden underfloor heating.

Water heated floor on a wooden base: problems that you will encounter and how to get around them

The method of heating bath rooms by means of heated water circulating "underfoot" was used in ancient times by the Turks and Romans. The "underground" method was not new, but insufficiently studied and worked out. For a long time it was believed that it was pointless to put a warm floor system on a wooden floor due to the specific properties of natural building materials. The main advantages of wood - excellent insulating qualities and lightness - were recognized as a hindrance. The difficulty was caused by the characteristic shifts of organic matter caused by fluctuations in the temperature background and changes in the level of moisture. The unsolvability of combining water-heated floors with a wooden base forced them to find a technological “way out” that would ensure their working union.

What will you have to face while working?

The principle of operation of the "warm floor" family of structures is based on the transfer of heat carrier energy through the surrounding material to the floor covering. The heated floor then transfers the heat into the room. A traditional concrete screed surrounding pipes with water or ethylene glycol moving through them does an excellent job of this function. What can not be said about the wood that prevents the spread of thermal energy. She, of course, does not let the energy received during heating into the underground, but she is in no hurry to give it to users.

Question: why not then corny pour a concrete screed over a wooden flooring? Answer: then about 300 kg of concrete layer will press on 1 m² of wooden flooring. There is no doubt that wood cannot withstand such a heavy burden, even if the beam structure were ultra-reliable, such as it is unreasonable to make under a Russian bath or a log house.

Another snag is the substrate, without which it is not customary to lay a floor covering on a wooden floor. Most of the materials used as a substrate, after all, also belong to the category of heaters that create a barrier to the passage of heat.

The whole range of problems and obstacles will be eliminated by improved technology, according to which a water-heated wooden floor is now being built. Thanks to the features of its device:

• the weight of the heating “underground” structure has been reduced by an order of magnitude;
• the heat received from the heating pipes is completely transferred to the floor covering and indirectly to the users;
• the substrate spreads only under carpet, linoleum or under floor tiles;
• the term of arrangement is extremely shortened;
• the waiting period of 28 days required for the complete curing of the screed is excluded.

After laying the final coating over the water-heated floor, built on a wooden system, you can start using it immediately. An important advantage is the ability to repair and replace damaged areas without tangible problems, which is completely unrealistic in the presence of a cement screed.

Design features of a wooden water system

Designed specifically for suburban buildings with beamed ceilings, the wooden system of a water-heated floor is laid in a kind of flooring method:

• a pipeline with a circulating coolant is not located in a cement screed, but is mounted on top of a log or a rough plank floor in specially formed channels;
• for the accumulation and transfer of heat, the channels are equipped with heat-distributing plates with a longitudinal recess for laying pipes of the heating circuit;
• metal plates, along with the duties of heat distribution, perform the function of elements that increase the rigidity of the structure, thereby eliminating the need for a substrate.

Note. In budget home-made versions, instead of expensive plates, foil with a thickness of 200 microns is used.

If the substrate is still needed, for example, for finishing the floor with ceramic tiles or linoleum, gypsum-fiber (GVL, GVLV) or cement-bonded particleboard (DSP) boards with minimal insulating performance are used.

Two technologically different options to choose from

All differences lie in the method of forming channels for the location of the pipeline, hence the division into two methods:

• For laying underfloor heating on wooden logs, you can now purchase special modules made of chipboard with “grooves” pre-milled at the factory, the step between which is determined by the planned heat transfer of the system. The factory kit comes complete with all components: modules with existing channels, metal heat spreading plates, fasteners and pipes. They just need to be put together in accordance with the attached project-instruction. A significant drawback of modular chipboard flooring is the cost, sometimes equivalent to the price of a log house. Therefore, cunning craftsmen, relying on factory developments, came up with a cheap rack alternative.
• The lath option predetermines the formation of channels not by milling in a chipboard, but by stuffing the laths. For the manufacture of slats, a planed edged board, moisture-resistant plywood or the above-mentioned plates with a thickness of at least 21 mm, maximum 28 mm are used. The distance between the laths is usually equal to the thickness of the lath, since in the grooves created by stuffing, pipes with an outer diameter of 17 mm must not only lie freely, but also not deform from wood movements. The width of the guide rails determines the distance between the pipes of the circuit being constructed. For example, when laying a pipeline with a snake with a pitch of 300 mm, the width of a 22 mm board should be 278 mm.

There is another witty folk technology - a kind of hybrid of the rack and modular principle. According to her, laying a floor heating on wooden beams is done quite quickly and very economically.

To do this, in the edged board, on the one hand, choose a quarter with the dimensions of the channel. Even at a distance of at least 7 cm from the wall, a continuous strip is milled to an equivalent depth so that the pipe can be brought to the next row. The thickness of the board, of course, should be greater than the size of the sample, but the width of the board in this case is equal to the laying step. Boards with channels are fixed with screws directly to the beams or to the logs, because there is no need to build a subfloor.

Mounting the system on a light slatted floor

Before the construction of a warm floor under a used wooden floor, it is necessary to carefully check the condition of all elements. It is advisable to disassemble the floorboards and inspect the logs, if necessary, replace the components that are in doubt. If the structure was not sufficiently insulated to the beams or to the logs at the level of the bottom line, it is necessary to nail the bars and lay the slab insulation on them. Then it is necessary to lay an insulating roll material with an overlap (preferably polyethylene 200 microns) and attach a damper tape 5 cm wide to the wall along the perimeter of the floor.

Those who want to know how to make a wooden floor warm by installing a water circuit, probably realized that the snake would be the easiest option for laying the pipeline. On a plan made according to the dimensions of the room, we mark a place for pipe connection and installation of control equipment, draw the location of the guides with the necessary step. For our latitudes, the pitch between the pipes varies from 150 mm to 300 mm. Pipes are recommended to take corrugated with a diameter of 16 or 17 mm. According to the data obtained, we calculate the dimensions of the rails and make them.

The base has been prepared, the rails have been prepared - you can proceed with the installation:

• in accordance with a personal project, we lay the prepared guides, between which we leave a groove-channel for pipes;
• we fix the guides with self-tapping screws to the rough base;
• the corners of the rails in the pipeline turn zone are rounded off;
• in the channels created by this method we lay a foil with a thickness of at least 50 microns, press it, carefully bending around the recess, in some places we fix it to the rails with a stapler;

Advice. To increase heat transfer, the masters recommend additionally wrapping the pipes themselves with foil.

• we lay the pipeline along the formed furrows, periodically fasten it with metal plates to the subfloor or to the rails;
• we connect to the heating circuit and carry out pressure testing of the heating system;
• after making sure that it works, we either immediately put a floor covering, or a substrate under a tile or linoleum, which is strongly advised by DSP boards that do not contain formaldehyde.

This is how you can independently build water-heated floors without extra costs and unnecessary fanaticism. The principles introduced by Western engineers can be put to practical use, leaving money in your own wallet. What is preferable: a completely expensive factory "constructor" or a democratic homemade product?

Water heated floor on a wooden floor: on wooden logs and slatted options

A specific technology allows you to lay a “warm floor” water heating system on a wooden floor with your own hands. We understand how to make a warm floor on a wooden floor - the technology of work.

Warm water floors on wooden floor

For a country house, a wooden bath, an underfloor heating system will become convenient and practical. Underfloor heating, water, the contour of which must be hidden in the underground, is able to efficiently and efficiently heat quite spacious living quarters. This is especially convenient for you to do to improve the habitability of your dacha, to create more comfortable conditions in the bathhouse.

It is not possible to solve such an engineering and technical problem by laying water pipes under a concrete screed. This affects the technological features of the structure itself and the very nature of the technology. Not every wooden floor or logs underlying the building can withstand the huge additional load in the form of a monolithic slab. The way out of this situation is to make warm floors, water, laid on a wooden floor.

Main idea and practical solution

For quite a long time, it was considered that mounting water heating circuits directly on wooden floors was not a very good idea. Mainly, the reason for this opinion lay in the characteristics of the building material. Construction wood, despite a lot of technological advantages, is highly susceptible to the effect of thermal deformation. In addition, excessive exposure to moisture also adversely affects the wood. The lightness of wooden structures and insulating properties were considered disadvantages when it came to the installation of more complex thermal and hydraulic structures in the building.

Despite the obvious obstacles, attempts to find a reasonable way out of this situation have led to the emergence of new technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden floor, create heating water systems in wooden buildings. The main thing is to choose the right consumables and adhere to a certain technology.

To date, there are two types of underfloor heating used in residential buildings as a heating element. We will not talk about the electrical circuit, since it has not found its development in combination with wooden structures. Let's pay attention to the water heating system - a warm water floor, in which hot water runs through the pipes of the heating circuit.

What technical difficulties await us in this case? The principle of operation that underlies this heating system is well known and understood. It makes no difference whether the water circuit lies in a concrete screed, or skillfully hidden in a wooden floor. Water circulating through the pipeline heats the surface of the floor, thereby giving off precious heat to the interior of the heated room.

On a note: skeptics can make a remark - the tree does not conduct heat well, in addition, the wooden structure itself can be deformed as a result of heating. There is something to be said for these comments. The use of special heat-conducting plates allows you to ensure that the thermal energy will go in a strictly vertical direction, heating the floor.

Here we should say a few words about the fact that from a technical point of view, laying heating pipes on a wooden floor is not difficult. If at the initial stage you have a clear idea of ​​​​what your underfloor heating should be, what type of flooring you will have, it is quite possible to make water floor heating.

Key points

We have already said that it is not always possible to solve the problem simply as you would like. For capital stone structures with concrete floors, a concrete screed for underfloor heating is very convenient. However, in most cases, wooden residential buildings, in which wooden floors are not able to withstand an additional weight of 10-15 tons. A tree, even if you are dealing with a beam system of a set, cannot withstand such a load. It does not make sense to strengthen the supporting structures during the construction of a country house or a bathhouse. This will lead to an increase in cost and to the weight of the entire structure.

For reference: any water-heated floor involves the creation of a substrate. This element is mandatory for underfloor heating of any type. Without underlayment and one floor covering will not have sufficient support.

The key point in this situation is the new technology, thanks to which it was possible not only to significantly reduce the weight of the entire structure of the heating system, but also to ensure that the heat was transferred directly to the floor covering. The substrate can be successfully covered with linoleum or carpet. The emergence of new practical and high-tech materials allows you to create an entire heating system based on wooden floors in a matter of days. When working with a concrete screed, you will have to strictly adhere to the technology and wait 25-28 days until the screed reaches its maturity.

Assessment of the condition of wooden structures. Pre-insulation

Before proceeding with the design of the "water heated floor" heating system, it is necessary to examine wooden structures, ceilings, logs and other load-bearing elements. The wooden base, consisting of boards, must be solid. The cracks existing between the boards are carefully sealed with heat-insulating materials. The floor in a wooden house is usually mounted on logs, so it is important to study their condition and location.

Condition assessment includes:

• visual inspection of the state of the surface of wooden boards;
• feeling and scraping the surface of wooden boards to assess the structure of the wood;
• elimination of cracked and sagging boards;
• alignment of lags in places of deflection;
• adding lags if the distance between existing elements is too large.

For reference: if the condition of the wooden floor is unsatisfactory (old cracked or rotten boards), it is better to dismantle such a base. The joists that hold the boards are too far apart. For a warm floor, the logs must be at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.

There is an installation option when a warm floor is laid on wooden logs. Those. in other words, the whole structure will be on top of the supporting structures, representing an independent structure.

Old boards that do not have a marketable appearance must be treated with a jointer to make the surface of the material even and uniform. The maximum allowable height irregularities for a wooden floor are no more than 2 mm. Such care and precision is necessary for a wooden floor due to the fact that there is no substrate in this system.

Having finished with the assessment of the condition and preparation of the wooden floor, you should proceed to the insulation of the structure. Such a preliminary procedure is necessary due to the fact that all the heat radiated by the water circuit should not go down into the underground, but linger and go up.

Reinstall the lags at an acceptable distance, install the raised floor. On the logs, plywood or used boards are nailed from below. This will serve as the basis for the thermal insulation material to be laid. Steam and heat-shielding film should be laid on the prepared base. In the openings between the lags, a heater is laid on the film, the thickness of which should not exceed 100 mm. On top of the insulation, a heat-insulating film is again fixed. Only after all this, you can start laying the heating water circuit.

On a note: It is strongly not recommended to use ordinary polyethylene film as thermal insulation. Neglect of technology will lead to the fact that condensate will begin to accumulate in the subfield. Due to the accumulation of moisture, the insulation may soon become unusable.

Insulation in this situation can be mineral wool, the density of which is 35-40 kg / 3.

Installation of the floorboard and methods of laying heating pipes

At this stage, it is necessary to take into account technological subtleties. Of course, this will take a little more time, but in the future the work will already be carried out much faster. Should be said right away. The layout of the water heating circuit in this case is a "snake". Installation of the pipeline according to the "spiral" or "snail" scheme is unacceptable for this technology.

On the prepared base, we begin laying boards that have a special configuration, equipped with special grooves. Between the boards there should be grooves measuring 20x20 mm. The edges of the boards are turned in a semicircle for a convenient inversion of the water pipe. Having made all the necessary preparations, you can lay all the boards on the prepared base. The presence of grooves and the semicircular edges of the boards are the route for laying the water circuit. This to some extent facilitates the task in the future when installing the underfloor heating pipeline directly.

Ready-made grooves for mounting a water pipe of a water-heated floor under wooden floors are shown in the photo.

Thanks to the grooves, laying the heating circuit is easy and fast. Before working with the pipe, foil is unwound over the grooves. After that, a pipe is laid in the grooves, the diameter of which should not exceed 16 mm. In order to get maximum heat transfer, the pipe is wrapped in foil, attaching its edges with staples to wooden boards.

On top of the pipe, they are attached to the boards with metal plates. According to this scheme, the entire water pipe is laid, thereby covering the entire floor area.

On the preliminary plan of the room, marks are made where the control equipment (collector, manifold cabinet) will be installed.

Important! Pipes should be laid taking into account a certain step. For the central regions of the country, where the average monthly temperature in winter is -15, -20 0 C, the optimal laying step is 150-300 mm.

It is better to use a stainless corrugated pipe with a diameter of 16 mm.

The final stage. Connection to autonomous heating system

After you have laid the water circuit, you can start connecting it. For manual control, the connection is simply made to the main pipeline using a conventional tap. If you want to make the system adjustable, warm water floors under the wooden floor are equipped with mixing units and a collector. In this case, you get a convenient, efficient and adjustable heating system.

For those who want to improvise should remember! Under no circumstances should underfloor heating be connected to a central heating main. Connecting additional heating devices, including underfloor heating, to a centralized heating system and hot water supply is not legal.

Based on this, it is impractical and risky to install a water floor in a city apartment. For a private house or for a summer residence, this option is quite acceptable and effective. After connection, the water circuits must be pressure tested. The procedure is mandatory and allows you to identify places of coolant leakage, identify zones of low heating. Only after that you can start working with flooring.

The finish. Floor covering flooring

The cover you choose can be anything. To date, the trading network has a huge selection of a wide variety of materials. You will have to choose not so much for manufacturability as for cost. If you prefer to use laminate, then you will need some time for this. The costs will not be so high in this case.

On a note: any material has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity, so your level of comfort and heating efficiency depends on what kind of coating your warm floor will be covered with.

Wood has a low thermal conductivity compared to ceramic tiles. Before starting the installation of a water heated floor along the logs, thermal calculations should be made to give an idea of ​​the amount of heat that will be on the surface. By doing everything correctly and in accordance with the technology, you can independently make an effective heating system in residential premises.

Lay a water heated floor on a wooden floor

Article on the topic: “Warm water floors on a wooden floor” - encyclopedia of heating ZnatokTepla.ru

What should be the device of a water-heated floor in a wooden house

Among all types of heating, the installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is perhaps the most complex and difficult. When laying, it is required to take into account the features of the building, choose the optimal type of flooring and strictly follow the phased installation plan.

Is water heating a wooden floor possible?

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, arranging a warm water floor in a wooden house made of timber is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the issue of heating. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances associated with the peculiarity of the operation of a wooden house.

Variants of the device of a wooden floor with water heating

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating in a wooden house. The choice of laying method is selected depending on the technical characteristics of the building.

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying a water circuit. You can lay the mats on a flat subfloor. To do this, pre-trim the surface with plywood flooring or QSB - plates. The modular type floor does not require the use of cement mixtures. From above, polypropylene pipes close the DSP, lay the flooring.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

The device of a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. The exception is the special safety measures necessary to protect wooden surfaces from moisture.

Which floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

• Ceramic tiles - the advantage of ceramics is the rapid heating of the surface and high heat transfer. Use is limited to hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential areas. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be poured with a screed, or covered with a cement-bonded particle board.

What tool is required for installation

To install the water circuit you will need:

Installation of a concrete water-heated floor on wooden floors will additionally require the presence of:

To work with wooden surfaces, a set of cutters and drills, a powerful drill are useful.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation

The design features on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in the phased installation of heating will lead to problems in operation. The appearance of condensate and leakage is critical.

• Exceeding the maximum length of the circuit - the pipe should not be more than 70 m in length. The circuit should be located below the boiler, so the natural circulation of the coolant is ensured, in the absence of a circulation pump.

Underfloor heating for a wooden house is a smart solution. Subject to the recommendations regarding installation, you can avoid possible difficulties in the process of future operation.

Do-it-yourself device for a water-heated floor in a wooden house, installation options with and without a screed

The seemingly complicated device of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is actually quite simple. Self-installation allows you to significantly save by laying the heating circuit and performing

Underfloor heating is one of the most popular heating methods today, used both independently and together with other systems. The laying technology has been studied and perfected, but it is used mainly on the first floors due to the heavy weight of the cement screed, traditionally used to fill the highway. In order to fearlessly lay warm floors on wooden floors, without fear that the base will “play”, the Finns came up with an original technology. And FORUMHOUSE users adapted it to their needs and capabilities. Our craftsmen willingly tell everyone how to lay water-heated floors in a private house on wooden logs.

• Variations on the original theme
• System installation

Dry screed: lightweight underfloor heating

Dry screed - a technology by which a warm floor on logs is laid without pouring cement mortar. In a conventional system, the screed acts not only as a retainer, but also as a conductor - due to its high thermal conductivity, it effectively transfers heat upwards. But due to the large weight, it cannot be used on lags. According to Finnish technology in a dry screed, this function is performed by drywall sheets in three layers - as a base, between pipe loops, as the completion of the "pie". This makes the design easier. The voids between the pipes and sheets are covered with tile adhesive, the top layer is attached to it.

The design turns out to be lightweight, the load on the floors is within the normal range, and even in the event of a leak, the line can really be repaired.

Do-it-yourself water floors in a wooden house.

Variations on a theme

In our country, on the basis of Finnish technology, which facilitates the construction and makes it possible to abandon the monolithic casting, its variations appeared - the principle remained, but the materials were added:

• Gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL) - compared to gypsum boards, they are denser, stronger in bending and deformation, contain cellulose fibers and other additives that increase their technical characteristics. For wet rooms, a moisture-resistant variety (GVLV) is used;

Tishin FORUMHOUSE member

In such a floor, instead of drywall, it is better to use gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL). I myself am now considering a dry screed for implementation in my house, only I will replace the bottom layer with OSB. I will assemble the middle part from two layers of GVL.

• Chipboard, OSB (OSB), plywood - in terms of heat transfer, this design turns out worse, since wood and its derivatives act as an insulator. Ready-made sets of underfloor heating are sold on a dry screed made of chipboard sheets, with grooves selected for the hinges, but not everyone can handle their cost.

boatmaster Member FORUMHOUSE

Logs, with a step of 60 cm, plus insulation - 35 cm, OSB base, then a 20 mm pipe, plus a 5 mm clip, it turns out 25 mm, three layers of GVLV between pipes 12x3 = 26 mm.

• Cement particle board (DSP);
• EPPS - pipes are laid directly into the insulation, and the voids are covered with glue. To increase the heat transfer of the elements, foil or similar material is used;

The thickness of the sheets for the middle layer with the main is selected based on the diameter of the pipe, so that after filling with glue a flat surface is obtained, and the final layer does not put pressure on the pipe. Alternatively, two sheets are glued together if the thickness of one is not enough.

Forum users are actively organizing their underfloor heating systems on hardwood floors.

Serg177 Member of FORUMHOUSE

If something happens to the pipe (today, tomorrow or in 25 years), you won't have to break the coupler. I will buy 50 sheets of plywood for 200 m², 18 mm thick, dissolve it into strips, at intervals - a 16 mm pipe, and close 200 sheets of ten sheets and laminate on top.

One of the options for a do-it-yourself dry screed device is laying pipes in special aluminum plates with grooves. They tightly fit the pipes and increase heat transfer. The disadvantage of this configuration is the high cost of these metal gaskets, their use increases the cost of the entire system.

Vladimir Tallinn Member of FORUMHOUSE

There are not enough aluminum special sheets that are placed under the pipe and bring heat to the top. I have standing, they “hug” the pipe, the size is about 30 cm per meter, the groove for the pipe with rare spikes so that the pipe holds.

Sheets on a gypsum base are one of the most popular materials, as they are optimal in all respects.

• Acceptably worth;
• Easily sawn into segments;
• Eco-friendly (does not contain synthetic binders like wood-filled boards) and suitable for home use;
• non-combustible;

System installation

According to the lags based on Finnish technology, it assumes a standard installation algorithm, regardless of the materials used in the work, be it GKL, GVL (V) or other plates.

evraz Member of FORUMHOUSE

Similar technologies, where pipes or a heating cable are smeared with a solution in the GVL grooves and covered with the top layer of GVL, are painted by many manufacturers of underfloor heating systems.

Water heated floor on logs in a wooden house.

Warming

The system must transfer heat upwards, and not pass it into the ceiling, which will lead to increased heating of the carrier and a decrease in efficiency. A vapor barrier is laid between the lags, on top - a layer of insulation (mineral wool, EPS), covered with a layer of vapor barrier. The insulation will protect both the wood and the insulation from condensation, provided that it is not just a plastic film. Under a conventional film, condensation will form in even greater quantities.

Base

It is necessary to observe the optimal distance between the lags when the system is being mounted - 60 cm, in this case it is not necessary to create an additional crate to distribute the load, and the sheets form a monolithic structure. Sheets are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.

Highway

The footage and diameter of the pipe depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, heat loss, and the power of the equipment used to heat the coolant. The most demanded range is 16-20 mm in diameter. The pipe pitch is also individual in each case, but on average - 100 mm, more often at the edges. The pipe is fastened with special metal or plastic brackets or do-it-yourself clamps.

Warm water floors, wooden floors.

Laying

The space between the contours of the pipes is filled with segments cut from sheets, grooves should remain around the pipes for filling with glue. The optimal groove size is 3 pipe diameters, this is enough for maximum heat removal. The segments are screwed with self-tapping screws, in increments of 10 - 15 cm, the length of the fastener should be enough to fix it in the logs.

filling

To fill the grooves, tile glue is most often used, a cement-sand mixture can be used, but plasticizers must be used when mixing. In order to increase adhesion, and the finishing layer of the “pie” is more firmly connected to the intermediate one, it is recommended, after filling the seams with pipes, to go over the entire surface with an adhesive mixture “on the peel”. This is advice from a user under the nickname vitaon, he is professionally engaged in the installation of such systems and shared his trick with the members of the forum.

Vitaon Member of FORUMHOUSE

Before the final layer, the surface consists of alternating strips of dry plasterboard and ditches filled with adhesive. Immediately before gluing, it is necessary to cover the entire surface with putty, a wide spatula and a thin layer of glue - a homogeneous base will be obtained. On top, apply glue under the final layer. With this method, adhesion is greatly increased.

Finished floor

A water floor on wooden logs allows you to practically use it in a private house, only cheap linoleum is a contraindication - it will “smell” noticeably with constant heating. The best option is ceramic tile or laminate flooring. In the case of a laminate, a substrate does not fit under it, due to its thermal insulation properties.

Conclusion

A warm floor with a dry screed using Finnish technology is a basic option that can be tailored to specific conditions and needs. All the subtleties and nuances are in the subject. The article selects the most economical way to heat the device. And in the video about engineering heating equipment - advice from the master on choosing.

Heated floors are one of the mandatory attributes of a comfortable home. As a heat source in such floors, plastic pipes with hot water circulating in it or a heating electric cable filled with a cement-sand mixture screed are most often used. In houses with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs or with a shallow underground, such warm floors are implemented quite easily, which cannot be said about houses with wooden floors.

The main problem is the impossibility of installing a screed on a light wooden structure due to the large weight of concrete and insufficient strength of wood. The problem of the second plan is the relatively low ignition temperature of the tree, which excludes the possibility of strong heating of the constituent elements of the warm floor. Nevertheless, the task is quite solvable and, despite all the complexity of the technological plan, it is possible to arrange electric heated floors in wooden houses, and without applying excessive efforts.

Heating elements for electric underfloor heating

There are several types of electric heaters designed for underfloor heating - moreover, they have a low dead weight and do not require a concrete screed as a base. This:

• sheet infrared film heaters;
• foil mats;
• core heating mats;
• cable mats or cable laid on special mounting plates.

As a basic element of the heating system, it is advisable to use warm floors based on any of these heaters only in small rooms with permanent residence - they can warm the air to a comfortable temperature in a large cottage only in a warm southern climate ...

Film floors and foil mats

Film heaters are laminated strips of carbon-graphite mixture and can be used not only for underfloor heating, but also for hanging on walls and even ceilings. When the power supply is connected, each such “panel” begins to emit in the infrared range, which leads to heating of objects in the room, as well as walls and ceilings. From them, heat is transferred to the surrounding air.

The undoubted advantage of a film underfloor heating is its extreme ease of installation and the possibility of laying it under any floor covering or even just under a carpet. Can be laid under large furniture. In addition, infrared radiation is the fastest way to heat a room. But it is still a relatively expensive type of heating, rather "gluttonous" in terms of electricity consumption.

Foil mats are a type of film underfloor heating. More precisely - a hybrid of film and cable, which has almost all the advantages of the first and is devoid of the disadvantages of the second type of heaters.

Rod mats

Rod underfloor heating is a set of tubes connected in parallel, filled with a special mixture - carbon. It has a small (less than 1 cm) thickness and high strength. The most economical in terms of energy consumption, but also the most expensive of the types of electric underfloor heating.

However, the high cost of rod mats is fully justified by their advantages: rods filled with carbon have a self-regulating effect, and therefore are not afraid of being “locked” by massive furniture, for example. In addition, such mats are practically not afraid of accidental mechanical damage - due to the parallel connection with each other, a malfunction of one rod does not cause failure of the entire mat.

Cable mats

Cable mats are the most common type of electric underfloor heating. They are a long heating cable laid and fixed on a mesh base. Laying is usually carried out with a “snake”, while the thickness of such a mat does not exceed 10 mm. Relatively cheap, but also rather capricious in operation.

Such mats are laid on free areas of the floor, otherwise the cable will most likely fail due to local overheating. Cable mats are afraid of mechanical damage and are practically unsuitable for repair.

Dry installation in a wooden house

Installation of an electric underfloor heating in a wooden house in the absence of a concrete base can be carried out in one of two ways: on a solid plank draft (or even finishing) floor or directly on the logs. The first method is much simpler, but unsuitable for laying cable and rod mats due to their relatively large thickness.

Regardless of the choice of the “dry” method, without a screed installation, it should be borne in mind that the maximum allowable power density of foil heater mats is 130 W per square meter of the heated area. The specific power of an infrared film can be twice as much; for a resistive cable, the limitation is much tougher - no more than 10 W / m.

Finish coat

The ideal floor covering for heating cables and foils is ceramic tiles. Unfortunately, its laying on a wooden base is practiced extremely rarely, since it is associated with great technological difficulties. Nevertheless, modern floor heating systems work quite effectively even when laid under laminate, linoleum and even carpet - you just need to take into account the chemical composition of the coatings: some of them, even with slight heating, can emit harmful, toxic compounds.

But, given that the maximum temperature of the heating elements of the warm floor almost never exceeds 50 degrees, the main requirement for flooring is good thermal conductivity. Laminated board and linoleum of the lowest price category do not meet this condition well, but with proper skills they can be used.

Dry laying on a solid surface

On a solid wooden floor used as a base, film heaters or cable mats are laid as one of the “sandwich” layers. Directly on a wooden covering (board, plywood, chipboard or OSB-plates), if necessary, a waterproofing layer of any mastic with the appropriate characteristics is applied. A heat-reflecting coating is laid on it, which simultaneously plays the role of thermal insulation; most often it is foil foamed polystyrene. Then an electric floor is laid, and a fine floor covering is mounted on it.

If necessary (for a laminated board, for example), a substrate is laid between the heating surface of the underfloor heating elements and the finish coating - but this is done quite rarely: such a gasket conducts heat very poorly.

Similarly, foil cable mats are laid, only for them the heat-reflecting layer of the “sandwich” is not required - this role is played by the foil base of the mat. It is only necessary to take into account that almost all manufacturers of electric underfloor heating produce all the layers necessary for laying the "sandwich" - and guarantee compliance with the declared characteristics of the heaters only when using branded materials and recommended laying technologies.

Laying on logs

Installation of a warm floor on logs is done a little differently. From the point of view of building technologies, it is somewhat more complicated than the previous one - it is difficult to use the main load-bearing logs of the floor or floors, and it is necessary to lay additional bars on the black floor as a second log. However, if the subfloor is hemmed to the main lags from below, they can be used as reference points for laying mats or laying an electric floor heating cable.

Between the upper plane of the lag and the subfloor, thermal insulation is necessarily arranged, and, if necessary, waterproofing in front of it. A mounting grid is laid on the upper planes of the log, and a heating cable or heating mats are already attached to it. The height of the space between the upper plane of the thermal insulation and the mounting grid (that is, the height of the lag) must be at least 30 mm in order to avoid overheating of the wooden elements.

When laying the cable on the mounting plates, there is no need for a grid - the plates are mounted directly on the logs. The order of the other layers is preserved. The heat-reflecting layer is usually not used when installing electric underfloor heating on logs - its role is played by the top layer of thermal insulation; however, laying such a layer will not be superfluous.

Cabling

In both cases, the cable is recommended to be laid in such a way that it does not intersect with the surface of the lag. If this cannot be avoided, at the intersections it is necessary to make cuts to the top of the thermal insulation and cover the slots with a layer of foil. In this case, the cable should not have physical contact with the lower plane of the finishing coating - it should heat the air cushion formed between the lags.

The thickness of the finishing coating should not exceed 24 mm, otherwise the efficiency of the electric underfloor heating begins to decline sharply. Carpet is used only in case of urgent need - it has a very low thermal conductivity ... linoleum is also recommended to be used as a last resort - the risk of mechanical damage at the same time damaging the heating elements of the warm floor is very high.

Installation of a regulator for electric underfloor heating

The control of the electric floor in a wooden house, as in all other cases, should be carried out by an external thermostat. The place of its installation is chosen with the condition of the possibility of unhindered operational access, but at the same time as close as possible to the managed area. This is due to the following considerations:

• even an electric mat or cable heating a relatively small area of ​​the floor is a rather powerful consumer of electricity, and the shorter the wires leading to it, the higher the reliability of the entire system as a whole;
• the logic of the controller is determined by the readings of the temperature sensor, placed in close proximity to the heating element; the shorter the wire from the sensor to the regulator, the smaller the error in the sensor readings and the more precisely the set temperature is maintained;
• it is more convenient to evaluate and correct the temperature of the floor surface with direct physical contact with it - it will be difficult to do this from another room.

Electrical connection

The connection of the electric floor to the power supply line must be carried out by a protected RCD separate line with the appropriate cross-section of the conductors - usually 4 square meters is enough. mm. When using a metal mounting grid, it must be grounded; it is recommended and, if possible, to ground the foil surface of the heat-reflecting layer.

When laying film sheets or cable mats in sections of fixed sizes, it is better to connect them in parallel - in this case, a malfunction of one of them will not affect the operation of the entire floor as a whole and will only lead to a slight decrease in its temperature.

Related videos

The most effective space heating devices include a warm water floor, but its profitability is far from optimal. When installing such systems in wooden houses, there are a number of significant limitations. A screed cannot be used, since the plank base may not withstand such a strong load. However, there are other effective ways to make an electric underfloor heating independent in a wooden house without stressing the base.

Warm floor in a wooden house

If we take into account the buildings of the old model, then wooden floors were used in their construction. In this case, it is possible to use a concrete screed, on the surface of which a warm floor will be placed. In the case of a private house, such manipulations are impossible. Often we are talking about weak and time-shaken wooden floors that are not able to withstand significant loads.

If it was decided to use electrical systems for space heating, then the following important points should be considered:

1. Wood belongs to the category of flammable materials. That is why, as far as possible (apartments), it is the infrared type of underfloor heating that should be used.
2. Such devices are not able to replace the heating system, so you should take care of heating radiators.
3. Low thermal conductivity, which will lead to the use of an increased temperature regime.

What are the requirements for underfloor heating?

Underfloor heating requirements

If it was decided to install an electric underfloor heating in a wooden house, special attention should be paid to compliance with safety rules that will eliminate the possibility of unforeseen and dangerous situations in the future.

Fundamental rules:

1. Do not place the cable under interior items. Violation will lead to overheating of the device and its breakdown.
2. When using species such as oak or beech, the thickness of the boards should not exceed 2.5 cm, and larch and pine 2.3 cm.
3. In order to avoid the formation and retention of moisture (condensate), laying a solid waterproofing layer will be required. Any electrical equipment does not tolerate water, and underfloor heating is no exception.
4. The thermostat will help to avoid possible overheating of the structure. It should be equipped with an air cushion and temperature sensors. This will prevent self-ignition. For wooden floors, the maximum temperature is 40 ° C.
5. The installation of the cable is carried out evenly, which will ensure the same heating of all sections.

In the room where underfloor heating systems are installed, it is not recommended to use any carpets. This will create an unnecessary insulating layer that will not allow heat to penetrate into the room.

What mounting technologies are used

Underfloor heating installation technology

There are only two options for laying a warm floor: with and without a screed. Everything will depend on the strength indicators of the base of the room or the building as a whole. In this case, some other additional factors should be taken into account, such as the age of the building and the frequency of use of the premises.

No screed

Warm floor for a wooden house

If you plan to install underfloor heating in a wooden house, then the use of a screed is not recommended due to its enormous weight. The technology used is somewhat different from the usual. To begin with, the necessary preliminary work is carried out aimed at cleaning and preparing the working surface. A log is being installed, under which it is necessary to lay a heat-insulating material (at least 4.5 cm), in which one of the sides will be foil. A mounting grid is placed on top to help secure the cable used.

Important! If desired, you can use a special laminate in which the TEP cable is already installed. However, you should be prepared for significant costs for its acquisition.

Installation is carried out with loops, the marking of which is carried out on the logs, in which cuts for the loops are made. The cable itself is mounted in prepared cuts and secured with clamps. At some distance from the floor (convenient for a person), a temperature controller is installed, and the sensor is placed between the lags. After completing the performance check of each of the elements of the system, you can start laying the finish coating. There must be a layer of at least 5 cm from the device to the coating.

Using a screed

Screed for underfloor heating in a wooden house

The wooden floor should be made smooth and even (monolithic). The tree should not walk, so any loosening should be excluded. If necessary, the structure is completely disassembled and reassembled. After that, a waterproofing material (polyethylene with a density of 200 microns) is laid. Thermal insulation should be laid on it (“tizol” is perfect). The foil side should be facing up. The cable is installed over the thermal insulation material. Fastenings are made with a pre-calculated step using loops. After installation, the cable is filled with a cement-based mortar. But before that, it is recommended to install a thermostat and a temperature sensor. It is placed between the loops.

Installation Features

Installation of a warm floor in a wooden house

There are a number of features that should be worked out even before the start of installation work. Wooden houses require a particularly careful approach, because additional weight can lead to skew or shrinkage of the structure. The heating system will be laid on logs.

The sequence of work will look like this:

• arrangement of the rough coating;
• laying a vapor barrier layer;
• installation of waterproofing material;
• finishing processing;
• soundproofing;
• flooring.

Inside this pie, the underfloor heating system will be placed. If all the upcoming work is planned to be carried out independently, then you should pay attention to one of the following methods:

1. The use of plates with a reflective effect. This is a kind of compromise if it is necessary to carry out a screed based on a concrete solution. The plates will help to direct the heat flows in the right direction, thereby increasing the efficiency indicator.
2. Small ventilation gap. It can only be used as an additional source of heat in the presence of centralized heating. The powerful system cannot be used in this case. Existing ducting will reduce the efficiency of the installed equipment.
3. Screed over an existing floor. This method belongs to the category of complex and requires preliminary preparation. The heat-insulating properties of the screed are at the proper level, which will significantly increase the efficiency of space heating. Such manipulations are recommended to be carried out in rooms with a high level of humidity or if it is planned to install tiles or any other cold coating.
4. Skillful combination of concrete and dry screed. The use of two of the most common technologies at the same time will make it possible to make a surface that can withstand any load.

Regardless of the final choice of the preferred technology, it is important to strictly follow the available instructions and listen to all the wishes of the manufacturer.

Installation work

Installation work when laying a warm floor

Experts recommend laying the system under a small layer of screed. Thus, it will be possible to install tiles or any other types of cold coatings as a floor covering. The arrangement of the underlying layer is mandatory and for this you will need high-quality heat-insulating materials, the surface of which is metallized. The main stages of laying a warm floor are similar to the installation of a heated water floor. The underlying layer acts as a solid base, regardless of the technology used.

The device is connected to special sensors, then to the mains and covered with floorboards. You can not use a cement screed, because it can add a significant weight to the main structure. But to equip the rough floor, in this case, you have to. To begin with, guides are mounted, between which heat-insulating material is laid. A welded mesh is laid on top of it, on which the power cable is placed. It must be placed on the same level.

Saw grooves are used at the points of its intersection. Their bottom is lined with foil, and clamps and mounting tape act as fasteners. After that, you should proceed to the arrangement of the finishing coating, for which it is customary to use a beam or a board with tenon grooves as connections. Sheet piles will also come in handy. Before proceeding with the arrangement of the final coating, it is necessary to connect the system to the network and leave it on for several days.

The most common design mistakes

Mistakes when laying underfloor heating

If a beginner takes up the matter, then difficulties can arise at every step. The secrets of success lie in the details, which should be known before the start of the upcoming work. It is necessary to understand that you have to work with electrical appliances that have an increased level of danger. This type of coating is designed to heat the surface of the floor covering, thereby creating the necessary home comfort. The design will be based on a mat or two-core cable. The length should be calculated in advance, since cutting it yourself is not recommended.

In most cases, problems arise precisely due to non-compliance with the designated technologies and violation of the rules for the installation work.

The area of ​​​​the room will also play an important role. Separately, the area that will be heated and the one on which the furniture or plumbing is placed is calculated. It is strictly forbidden to install the cable under furniture, as the system will work to warm up the bed or closet, and not the surrounding space. This will lead to an early breakdown due to huge and regular loads. The work surface must be cleaned and prepared in advance. The loops should not touch or intersect.

Curves are also to be avoided. Stepping on the cable is prohibited, as internal deformation of the wires and their subsequent short circuit and loss of elasticity are possible. It is not recommended to place the temperature sensor in the thickness of concrete, since a corrugated pipe is used for this. Before switching on, you should wait until the solution used is completely dry. Drying the screed with a device is not recommended.

Conclusion

Underfloor heating in a wooden house

Laying a warm electric floor in a wooden house can be done in several ways, based on time-tested schemes. To create a cozy atmosphere in a wooden house, any technology is suitable. If you follow the recommendations specified by the manufacturer and follow the safety rules, then installing a warm floor will not take much effort and time, not to mention saving the family budget.