When to transplant bushes. How to transplant adult bushes

This procedure is sometimes carried out by gardeners in their areas. There are many reasons for transplanting already formed plants to a new place: these are, for example, soil conditions (often together with climate features). It happens that the place where the shrub has been growing for several years has become flooded with melt or rainwater, or the shrub has suddenly begun to freeze slightly every year. Or purely domestic conditions, when, for example, a neighbor built a fence, and now your bush is in the shade, or the bird cherry tree has grown so much that the currant bush that grew nearby no longer has enough space.

Transplanting a currant bush. © Marie

One way or another, we are faced with the task of transplanting shrubs to a new place. And at the same time, you need to do this so that after transplanting the bush does not take root for too long and quickly bear fruit again.

In appearance, everything seems trite and simple: the bush needs to be dug up and planted again, however, in reality, everything is far from it. Often, shrubs after such a transplant simply die or get sick and take root for a very long time.

In order for everything to go smoothly, in this article we will give general recommendations for transplanting, give some important tips, and then we will analyze the transplantation scheme for each group of shrubs.

Choice of location. It must be picked up before you start transplanting. This time, try to choose the most suitable place, not flooded with melt or rain water, not in dense shade, with nutritious and loose soil. Be sure to choose a place based on the characteristics of culture. Let's say blueberries like acidic and moist soil, and currants like neutral and moderately moist soil, and so on.

Prepare the landing hole. Of course, it is difficult to calculate what it should be when the roots of the shrub are still in the soil, but you can dig a larger hole, say one meter wide and one meter deep. Such a hole will fit the root system of most shrubs. And if the roots are still cramped, then the hole can be quickly expanded, it will still be faster than digging a hole when the roots of the shrub have already been taken out of the soil.

When digging up a shrub, do not start digging the roots directly from the trunk(s), but first dig in the perimeter(carefully, trying not to damage the roots). Decide on the area of ​​​​their occurrence and, digging up the lateral roots, slowly approach the center of the bush. After that, you can simply pry the bush with a shovel and remove it from the soil.

We dig a bush. © Dorling Kindersley

Digging and transplanting any shrub, try to keep as many roots as possible intact and leave as much soil as possible on them. There is no need to shake off the soil, and even more so to wash the roots with water. It can even be dangerous, especially if it's hot outside.

After digging and planting any shrub in a new place, it needs to be provided during the season constant watering so that the soil does not dry out. At the same time, it is not necessary to turn the soil into a swamp, it is enough just to keep the soil moist. Watering can be combined with top dressing, introducing in the spring a tablespoon of nitroammophoska, in the middle of summer - a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, and in the autumn it is useful to mulch the soil surface in the bite zone with wood ash (200-250 g per plant). Ash can be applied under any shrubs, except for blueberries, because ash can deoxidize the soil.

Transplant time. For these purposes, it is better to choose late autumn or early spring, but if you are transplanting very large shrubs, then this can be done in winter. In summer, replanting plants even with a clod of earth is very risky, especially if you do not have the opportunity to provide the shrub with enough moisture and nutrition after planting. By the way, about nutrition: those fertilizers that we gave in the example (with the exception of ash) are best applied in a form dissolved in water.

Try to transplant shrubs as quickly as possible. Remember: the faster the bush is back in the soil, the more likely it is to quickly take root in a new place. Usually, most of the time is spent on digging up the shrub, while planting is carried out, as a rule, in a matter of minutes. This must be taken into account and correctly allocate time.

We take out a bush with a clod of earth. © Dorling Kindersley We transfer the bush with a clod of earth to a new place. © Dorling Kindersley We plant the transplanted bush in the planting hole. © Dorling Kindersley

How to transplant bushes of currant, gooseberry, honeysuckle, shadberry, viburnum, blueberry and other similar crops

So, you need to transplant a shrub of one of the indicated species. You should start by choosing the optimal time for transplantation. We have already indicated the dates, but they may depend on your climatic region. For example, in the northern regions, the optimal time for transplanting shrubs is spring. In no case should you delay the transplant: as soon as the snow melts, go to the site and transplant so that the bush opens the buds, waking up in a new place. So the chances of success in your business increase many times over. It is advisable to complete the transplant before the end of March, because during this period active sap flow in plants already begins. If you feel that you do not have time, then do not risk it, it is better to postpone the transplant until late autumn, that is, until mid-November.

As we have already indicated, shrubs can be transplanted in the summer. This is risky, but if you can keep as many roots as possible intact, do not destroy the clod of earth and can provide the shrub with moisture and nutrition in the future, then you can take a chance.

It will be easiest to dig up honeysuckle, blueberries and currants, more difficult - gooseberries (because of its thorns), but the hardest thing is digging up irga and viburnum. If the viburnum bush is already more than five years old, and the shadberry bush is more than seven years old, then it will be very difficult for you, since the root system of these plants is quite strong and penetrates to great depths. Holes here can be dug meter wide, but it is better to make them one and a half meters deep.

All these plants love open and well-lit areas and moderate soil moisture. Blueberries prefer wetter and more acidic soil, this must be borne in mind, viburnum is tolerant of acid in the soil, but loves areas where there is more moisture.

Prepare the soil for planting in advance, dig a shovel for a full bayonet, remove weeds. It is advisable to fertilize the soil, add 4-5 kg ​​of well-rotted manure and 250-300 g of wood ash (but not for blueberries), you can add a tablespoon of nitroammophoska per square meter. Under blueberries, the soil must be mixed with acidic peat in equal proportions, or even better, dig a hole, line it from the inside with plastic wrap, fill it with acidic peat and plant a blueberry bush in it.

When transplanting several bushes of these plants, try to place them so that the distance between them is two meters, and if the bushes are very sprawling, then three (in the case of shadberry, 3.5 meters is the norm).

Before digging, prepare a landing hole: pour expanded clay or broken brick into its base with a layer of a couple of centimeters, put a couple of shovels of nutrient mixture on top, which can be prepared by mixing 5-6 kg of fertile soil, 2-3 kg of humus, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 90-100 g of superphosphate. Next, water the hole well, and it will be ready for planting shrubs in it. By the way, when preparing a hole for planting red currants, you can add a couple of kilograms of river sand to the mixture.

Blueberry bush after transplanting. © joshuarainey photography

The hole is ready, you can now start moving the bush to a new place. By the way, about the transfer: if the desired and final places are far from each other, then it is advisable to stock up on a tarpaulin so that the bush can be conveniently moved, and not drag it by the shoots, risking breaking them (especially for red currants).

Before digging, carry out an audit of the ground part: remove, by cutting into a ring, all old shoots that no longer bear fruit, if any, dried up, and shorten young growths by half.

Further, as we have already advised, dig around the bush. For currants and gooseberries, you can retreat from the base of 30 centimeters, for honeysuckle and blueberries, 20 cm is enough, for shadberry and viburnum, you can retreat a little more - 35-40 cm. after digging the plant from all sides and slowly, moving towards the center, try to extract it from the soil. If several powerful and long lateral roots come across on the way, then it is quite possible to cut them.

Remember that all the crops described have very fragile shoots that easily come off the roots, so when digging a plant out of the soil, do not pull on the shoots, try to pry off the roots with a shovel and pull on them already.

As soon as the bush is removed from the soil, you need to act without delay, otherwise the roots may dry out. Moisten the soil in the planting hole by pouring three or four buckets of water and establish roots on this nutrient slurry. When planting, we strongly recommend placing the bushes relative to the cardinal points, as they grew before. It is easy to understand: the shoots from the south side are usually darker, as if with a tan, and from the north - lighter (paler).

It is necessary to place the bush in the hole so that it is in the center, so that the roots are evenly distributed over the hole, do not rise up, do not break, and that the root collar is immersed in the soil by a couple of centimeters. After planting, it remains to compact the soil, pour it with a couple of buckets of water and mulch it with humus with a layer of a couple of centimeters.

How to transplant a bush of grapes, actinidia, lemongrass and other vines

Grapes and creepers are best transplanted in autumn. The signal for the start of the transplant is usually the complete fall of the foliage. This means that the plant has passed into the dormant stage. The main thing here is to have time to transplant the plant to a new place at least a week before the onset of serious frosts, and of course, to prevent damage to the root system. In the event that winter turned out to be early and you did not have time to transplant grapes and creepers, then it is quite possible to wait until spring. The main thing here is to have time to finish the transplant ten days before the start of bud break.

The transplantation of both grapes and lianas, as well as currant bushes, usually begins with the preparation of a hole for planting, like a hole for currants and crops similar to it. When the planting hole is ready, you can begin to prepare the plants for digging. For this, creepers and grapes, three days before transplantation, stop watering, then a couple of sleeves with young vines, a year or two old, will need to be left at the grapes. At the same time, the uppermost shoots must be cut into two or three eyes, and all cuts should be covered with garden pitch. Only after this, the grape bush can be dug up, stepping back from the center 45-55 cm, and removed from the soil like digging a currant bush.

As for the vines, they can leave two or three of the youngest shoots located as well as possible, the rest can be removed. When digging, you can move away from the center, in the case of vines, by 35-40 cm, the rest of all actions are exactly the same.

In the future, after planting grapes and vines, after soil compaction, watering and mulching, it is necessary to remove all flowers at the first flowering in order to allow the plants to fully develop in a new place. For the next season, it is necessary to remove part of the inflorescences: for grapes, about half, and for vines, by a third. Do not forget to provide plants with plenty of moisture and nutrition during this period.

Young vine bush. © Dave

How to transplant a bush of raspberries, blackberries, blackberries and similar crops

Raspberry, blackberry and blackberry bushes tolerate transplanting best if it is carried out in autumn. Especially autumn transplantation is favorable for the southern regions and central Russia; in colder regions, it is better to transplant these plants in spring.

Both raspberries, blackberries, and blackberries are light-loving plants, so a new place for them must be open and well lit. Excellent predecessors for raspberries, blackberries and blackberries are tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. It is not advisable to plant crops in the place where crops from the same family grew: they may have common diseases that have accumulated over the years of their cultivation.

The soil for raspberries and blackberries must be well prepared, dug up with a full bayonet of a shovel, add a bucket of humus or well-rotted manure, as well as a tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 300 g of wood ash per square meter. Ezhemalina also requires a thorough disposal of weeds, in particular - from wheatgrass on the site.

The diameter of the landing hole for raspberries should be 55-60 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep, for blackberries - 40-50 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, for raspberries - 35-40 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. Distance between the pits, when transplanting several raspberry plants, it should be 45-55 cm, blackberries - 50-60 cm, blackberries - 55-65 cm.

If you have a choice, then use the most powerful, well-developed plants with stem diameters of at least a centimeter for transplanting. It is advisable to cut the shoots about a meter from the soil surface, and for the raspberries it can be 50 cm.

When digging plants, you need to retreat from the base of raspberries 35-40 cm, blackberries 30-35 cm, blackberries 40-45 cm. into a clay pot. When planting, try not to deepen the plants, especially for blackberries, if you deepen the root neck, a large amount of root growth is formed, so it is better to place the seedling in such a way that the root neck is exactly at the level of the soil. After planting, you need to water the soil by pouring 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch it with humus, a layer of a couple of centimeters.

Here are some simple techniques for transplanting shrubs to a new place, using which you will get a good result in the form of a plant that has come to life in a new area, gaining strength and actively bearing fruit over time.

Literally in conclusion I want to say a few words about strawberries. Very often I hear the question - is it possible to transplant garden strawberries during flowering. We answer, it is possible to do this, but it is first desirable to cut off all the flowers, so that after transplantation the plant gives strength to restore the lost parts of the root system and does not waste energy on the formation of the crop.

If you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them in the comments.

Tell me, please, when is it better to transplant bushes of spirea gray Grefsheim? They planted tiny seedlings with a closed root system two years ago and missed the spot. They grow in a more illuminated and warm part of the garden, next to apple trees and lilacs, the buds have already appeared. Now the bushes have already grown to 60 cm and it has become obvious that they need to be transplanted, and I am afraid to ruin them with an untimely transplant. And another question about spirea. The same spirea, only a 4-5 year old bush. Can it be transplanted painlessly or only by severely pruning and with a high risk of loss?

I obviously delayed the answer, but, on the other hand, my answer in May will just demonstrate that spirea is a very easy-to-care culture. She is not afraid of a transplant at any age, and with little tricks, she can be transplanted even in summer.
Strict connoisseurs of the plant world rewrite recommendations from post to post: spirea can be transplanted early in the spring before bud break or late in the fall after leaf fall. I admire such connoisseurs: they manage to do everything in the garden and garden on time. But what about those summer residents who can go to their garden only at the end of April, or even on the May holidays, and in the fall they end the season not at the end of October, but at the beginning of September? Is it really possible to deprive yourself of the joy of having in the garden a variety of not only fruit trees, but also beautiful shrubs, bright flowers?
For nothing!!! In practice (rarely when I have time to do all the work in the best possible time!) I was convinced that adult bushes of ornamental crops can be transplanted with leaves and even with flowers. If you need it, then you need it!
It is important to follow only a few rules.
First, choose the right place for the spirea. Almost all species and varieties love a sunny place, although Grefsheim and other species that bloom in spring can also tolerate light partial shade from large trees (it also appears when these spireas have almost faded).
Secondly, clearly mark the landing sites, taking into account what diameter and height this or that species or variety reaches. SpireaGrefsheimby the age of 10 reaches a diameter of 2 m, andLittle Princessonly 70-80 cm.
Thirdly, prepare the soil and planting holes at least 3-4 days before planting. Here it must be taken into account that heavy soils will have to be loosened with sand and peat, and light soils will have to be "weighted" by adding moisture-retaining materials, for example, finely lumpy clay. Acidic soils need to be limed, but not zealous, because Billard's spirea and all its hybrids do not grow well on calcareous soils. The heavier the soil, the larger the drainage layer should be: from 5 cm on light to 20 cm on clay.
A pit for planting needs to be dug about a third more than an earthen clod of a transplanted plant. But when planting, you need to take into account that the root neck should be at the same level as in the old place.
It is very important to transplant an adult plant in cloudy weather and stock up on an old sheet.
The work algorithm is as follows:
1. The pit was dug out and filled with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in 3-4 days.
2. Toward evening, we pour water into the pit, at the same time we water the plant that we will transplant.
3. We dig up the plant, stepping back from the root collar 15-20 cm around the perimeter. Carefully cut the roots and take them out together with an earthen clod. If the bush is large, then we immediately lay it on a piece of film or cloth and transfer it to the landing pit.
4. We lower the seedling into the planting hole and control the level of the root collar. If necessary, add soil under the roots, or slightly select the earth from the bottom of the pit.
5. We fill the planting hole with garden soil, slightly trampling the ground. We water the plant with water with the addition of root. We mulch the trunk circle with a thick layer of peat or humus (5-7 cm).
6. Install around the perimeter of the bush 3-4 pegs as high as the bush itself.
7. We wet an old sheet or a large piece of gauze in water, wring it out a little and cover the bush completely, pulling it over the pegs. We fix the fabric near the ground so that it does not blow away by the wind.
8. For 3-4 days daily, and in hot dry weather 2-3 times a day we moisten with water.
9. Then in the evening we remove the fabric and let the spirea grow freely. True, it will be necessary to water regularly for a month, because the roots of the plant are damaged and they themselves cannot fully provide the plant with moisture.
If you transplant spirea during the flowering period, it is better to cut off the inflorescences. For summer bloomers, this technique will cause a re-bloom, and for spring bloomers, more abundant blooms next spring.

September is the best time for planting and transplanting shrubs and trees. Shrubs and trees are not the kind of plants that can be transplanted at any time you please. These plants must first form a good young growth. The young growth should mature and only after the leaves have matured and become stronger, it is possible to transplant.

If you are lovingly transplanting some of your plants, and you want it to be guaranteed to take root, then you need to prepare it for transplanting in advance. It is advisable, especially for plants that are difficult to replant, in advance, already in the middle of summer, to start digging a lump. To do this, you need to find out where the root neck is located - the place where the roots begin. It often happens that the plant is planted deep, and when you start to dig it, the bayonet of the shovel is not deep enough, and you can injure the root system. So, already in the middle of summer, it is necessary to dig in the plant without digging it out. Those. you need to expose the root neck and make a cut with a shovel along the diameter of the lump. The roots are cut and the plant is left in place without digging! You can move the lump a little, but in no case take it off the ground. After that, the plant is abundantly watered with water and covered with earth.

During the summer, such a plant will grow safely, and the cut roots, which could go in different directions, begin to give an additional root system to the center of the plant. Thanks to this, when digging, you will get a good root ball, with which you will transplant the plant.

In autumn, you just need to clean the root neck of the plant, thoroughly shed the earthen ball, and then proceed to dig the plant along the same contour along which you dug it during the summer.

In order to transport the plant, it is most convenient to use some kind of dense fabric. For this, old matting bags are quite suitable. So, prepare a bag, ropes with which you will need to tie the plant, and only when everything is prepared, start digging up the plant. On the existing incised contour, make an incision even deeper. If you feel that the root system has gone too deep, you can dig out the ground and expose the future lump in order to injure the root system as little as possible. Gradually shake the tree and stick the shovel as deep as possible at an angle to the center. Then lift the tree with a lump from the ground and carefully pack it. Be sure to tie the bag with a lump on the bottom as tightly as possible so that it does not fall apart during transportation. Then you need to put the tied lump in a plastic bag if you are going to transport it over a long distance. If the crown of the tree interferes, then it can also be tied with a rope.

A hole for planting a plant is prepared in advance - in the middle of summer. You should never fall asleep under the plant just brought, fresh soil. Moreover, one should not pour granular fertilizers under the roots, which are slightly damaged during plant transplantation. Strong plants can survive this, but anyway, a planting hole, flavored with fertile soil and mineral fertilizers, is best prepared at least a month before planting.

Before removing the plant from the bag, in order to injure and dry the roots as little as possible, you need to pour off the excess earth and dig out the seat. Each individual plant requires a different soil. For example, light nutritious loam is very suitable for lilac. If the soils are sandy, well-drained, i.e. those that do not shrink, then the landing is carried out almost flush with the ground. If you think that shrinkage of the soil may occur, or the earth was poured into the pit immediately before planting, then planting should be done just above ground level.

Most shrubs can be slightly buried when planting. Unlike trees, it is not necessary to ensure that the level of the root collar corresponds to the level of the ground.

When you take the plant out of the bag, set it carefully in the hole. Pour some earth around the earthen clod. Then tamp the poured earth, but you can not press the earth in the center of the coma, otherwise the root system will be damaged. If you doubt whether the lump is well shed, then it is after pouring the earth that it is best to pour water over it. But if both the earth and the earthen ball are well shed, then the plant does not need to be watered at the time of planting. The next step is to form a hole. The hole, especially for a freshly planted plant, should be spacious, such that at least 1 - 2 buckets of water can fit into it. The sides of the hole are lightly tamped and then the plant is watered abundantly, more than once. You can pour 3 - 4 watering cans of water. There will never be excess water after planting.

After you have planted the plant, you need to see if there are any extra branches on it. The roots of the plant are injured, and each extra branch will reduce the possibility of good rooting. For example, if you form a shrub in the form of a tree, then you can immediately remove all unnecessary shoots. You don't have to wait for spring. Also remove all weak branches.

The right choice of a plant for your site is already 50% of its success in growing. In addition to personal preferences, it is necessary to take into account soil conditions, illumination, and the moisture regime of your site, which will dictate the biological characteristics of the pets you need. After the list of Wishlist has already been compiled, go shopping. This will save you from rash purchases and significantly reduce time.

Give preference to plants that are grown in your area - they are most adapted to your specific growing conditions. Purchase plants that have been grown outdoors, greenhouse shrubs can burn in the sun.

And now you are holding the cherished candidate for pets already in your hands, carefully look at whether he is healthy, whether there are any visible mechanical damage, diseases, illegal living creatures. If possible, consider the root system, pay attention to its integrity and moisture. If the root system is dry, the plant may not take root, no matter how you reanimate it.

If you are buying a containerized tree or shrub, feel free to shake it a bit - the plant should sit firmly in the ground. Also pay attention to the soil, it should be moderately moist and there should be no fungal plaque, mold and insects on its surface. Do not be too lazy to look at the bottom of the container - roots should not break through its holes.

In a high-quality seedling, the crown will be equilateral, the branches should be evenly spaced on all sides, and in one tier the thickness of the branches should be approximately the same.

How to plant a tree or bush

1. Determine the optimal landing site

2. Dig a planting hole

3. Loosen the bottom of the pit

4. Prepare a fertile soil mixture for planting

5. Attach the landing stake

6. Place the seedling exactly in the hole

7. Fill the hole with potting mix

8. Tie the plant to a support

9. Water generously

10. Sprinkle the soil mixture and tamp the near-stem circle

Some landing features

Coniferous plants should have healthy and elastic needles without yellow spots and bald spots. Also an important point during the spring planting of conifers is the beginning of the growing season. In no case should a coniferous plant be transplanted during the period when you see blossoming buds on it, otherwise it will die.

Many plants can be transplanted both in spring and autumn. But especially heat-loving and weakly winter-hardy species are transplanted only in early spring, otherwise they will not have time to properly prepare for winter. Mostly fruit trees and shrubs.

But if it becomes necessary to plant a plant in open ground in the off-season, use planting material in containers. A few days before planting, water the lump abundantly so that it is plastic. Then carefully transfer the plant from the container to the planting hole, without damaging the lump and the integrity of the root system.

Seating preparation

The whole secret of properly preparing a seat for a tree or shrub lies in its good location. It is also important to observe the optimal distance between plants, taking into account their size in adulthood. It is not advisable to plant large trees near buildings, as their root system can damage the foundation, and with age, large branches can pose a threat.

Landing sites are first placed with the help of pegs, then pits are dug with a diameter of 20–30 cm larger than the size of the earth coma. The depth of the pit also exceeds the height of the coma by 20–30 cm. To facilitate the penetration of the roots deep into the soil, the bottom of the pit is loosened. Try to separately lay down the fertile layer of earth that you dug out of the hole. Then it is used to prepare the soil mixture. Land from the bottom of the pit is not used for planting.

If necessary, arrange drainage with broken bricks and coarse sand. At the bottom of the planting pit, 15–25 cm of the planting mixture is poured and compacted.

Digging and transporting the plant

The most painless transplant for the plant will be transshipment from the container directly into the planting hole. But if you have planned to transplant a growing tree or shrub to another place, then try to dig it out without damaging the roots. First, pull the branches along the trunk with a rope so as not to accidentally break them, then carefully dig a trench around the plant at a distance of half the crown diameter from the trunk, and gradually get close to the root system while not disturbing the clod of earth. Lay plastic wrap, burlap, or any other material next to the plant so that the plant can be moved from place to place without breaking the ground from the roots. If you plan to transfer the plant over a long distance, then it is better to plant it in a container. If this is not possible, and almost all the earth has already crumbled from the roots, wrap the plant with a damp cloth.

Planting trees and shrubs

The plant is carefully lowered into the prepared seat with drainage and planting mixture, while carefully monitoring that its root collar is located slightly below the soil surface, and covered with soil mixture. The soil mixture is prepared from peat, earth and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Then half fill the planting hole with water, as it decreases, you will notice that the soil is compacted, and again pour the soil mixture on top. The soil around the trunk is tightly trampled. If the root system of your plant is packed in burlap, then it is not necessary to remove it before planting. Under the influence of soil, water and time, it will break down into organic residues and will not interfere with the development of your plant.

Landing Care

Immediately after planting, trees or shrubs should be given maximum attention. Water it regularly and abundantly. Water the plant every day for the first week after planting, then according to biological requirements and weather conditions. Make sure that the soil in the near-stem circle is dense and does not fail. If necessary, add a new one and mulch the soil with peat or tree bark.

During the first year, top dressing is applied 3 times. It is especially important in the spring to feed young plantings with nitrogen fertilizers. They help the plant form green mass and gain energy for vegetation. In autumn, phosphorus should prevail in the fertilizer complex, but nitrogen is minimized, since before winter dormancy it will only harm the plant.

During planting, the tree requires tying up, this will help it gain a foothold in the ground. You can secure the plant with a pole and rope. Make sure that the plant is planted vertically, with any inclination of the trunk, the decorative effect will be lost. The support should accompany the plant for three years, while making sure that the ropes do not hurt the bark and do not grow into the trunk. After this period, the support can be removed. Shrubs usually do not require tying to a support.

After each watering, when the soil dries out a little, the soil around the tree or shrub must be loosened, it is also important to keep the tree trunks free of weeds.

Natalia Vysotskaya, dendrologist, Ph.D. -X. Sciences.

2012 - 2014, . All rights reserved.

Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact, you can do a lot of trouble, so today we remind you of a few important rules, following which will allow you to avoid typical autumn mistakes.

First rule: not everything should be planted in the fall

Don't plant in autumn trees with bare roots if one of the following statements applies to the seedling:

• this plant, due to its biological characteristics, does not tolerate transplantation well;
• this variety or species of plants has a problem with winter hardiness in our climate;
• this tree was grown in a different climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.

In the first case, we are talking primarily about deciduous trees with a taproot and a slightly branched root system - birches, oak trees, chestnuts, nuts, velvets and so on, as well as about such a bush as hawthorn. A transplant with bare roots is very poorly tolerated by all conifers, except larches.

As for winter hardiness, trees such as chestnuts and almost all fruit, with the possible exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties apple trees. And finally, we do not recommend planting any species and varieties of trees just brought from Europe in the fall with bare roots. A plant that has lost a significant part of its roots may not be able to overpower the reconfiguration to other biological rhythms.

container plants- whether it be trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - you can plant in the fall. There is only one “but”: if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the volume offered by it and have begun to twist in rings, the plant may not take root well. Roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function at full capacity, so it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.

Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth transplanted in the fall in the same way as container ones. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it shook, the earth crumbled, you are actually dealing with bare roots, only powdered with soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all cases listed above for such a situation.

In general, the lump must be handled with extreme care, trying not to injure it once again. If a lump is packed in a mesh (metal or filament) or in burlap, in no case try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made from materials that decompose in the ground and will not harm the growth of roots at all.

The second rule: you can only plant what is no longer growing.

When planting in the fall, you need to make sure that the growth of the selected plants is over for this season. Active vegetation is completed if the apical buds are formed, and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise - when the tree goes into winter before the end of the growing season - it will definitely freeze.

You need to be especially careful when buying imported plants, as well as if the summer turned out to be very dry, and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new area. And in dry years, a stormy vegetation often begins very late, only with August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees by the beginning of the planting season that are completely unprepared for wintering.

Third rule: do not be late with the dates of landings

It is believed that in our climatic zone, trees and shrubs with an open root system are best planted. until October 10, because the seedlings still have to have a margin of time to put up young roots in a new place.

If the tree manages to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, its root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive all the winter hardships much easier. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are hard to take root (see the first rule).

Of course, the dates of landings can be slightly shifted depending on the specific weather conditions. So, in the abnormally warm winter that once fell to us, enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too big audacity.

Again, when we talk about October 10, we mean plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants was simply not carried out in Russia, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the latest era of the onset of imports. But we believe that it is not worth moving away from October 10 with containers too far.

Fourth rule: do not overdo it with fertilizers

This is a very important condition for a successful autumn planting. In autumn, you can bring into the planting hole only phosphate fertilizer. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for the plant in high concentrations. Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentrations (and when fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration of them) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives can be detrimental to the transplanted plant.

Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in autumn for planting no need to add. They can be made in advance, in the spring, for general soil preparation.

The only thing that can still support a newly planted plant is with root formation stimulants: root and humates. The preparations are diluted with water and applied during irrigation in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Fifth rule: landings need protection

When planting in the fall, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the stem from sunburn, mice and hares, installing supports and protecting the crown from snowfall.

After warming the roots, think about mice. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will attract them very much. Be sure to protect fruit, as well as ornamental varieties of apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise in general to provide all newly planted trees with protection, if such an opportunity exists. I have seen, for example, how mice gnawed at the cambium even on ash and Chinese poplars.

Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - this is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is put on the trunk. If you have a problem with hares on the site, a similar protection against hares must also be purchased. To find out more, read the article tie to support a tree planted before winter (however, like a tree planted in spring) is required! In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting the root system in motion - in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are enough; an adult plant needs a stretching system.

And finally, don't forget to protect the crown from the snowbreaker by tying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape - for all those whose branches depart from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice it is relevant for conifers with a similar crown shape - junipers, thujas, cypresses. Shrubs also do not hurt to protect from snowfall.

Good luck landing!

Irina Savvateeva

In what month to plant bushes and trees on your personal plot depends on a number of factors. It is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the region, the characteristics of the variety, the weather, the time of arrival of frosts. Planting trees in autumn is preferable for southern cities and the middle zone, where winters are not very snowy, colds do not come until the end of October. However, planting new crops on the site is also permissible in the spring, which is most often practiced in the northern regions.

1. Decent choice of material. At the end of the fruiting phase (in summer), it is possible to evaluate not only the characteristics of the seedling, but also the volume and taste of the fruit in a particular variety.
2. If you do not miss the deadlines, the plants have time to get stronger before winter, take root and take root on the site. New roots appear on them, which are already actively growing with the onset of spring.
3. Rains in autumn are more frequent than in summer, which reduces the amount of watering required. Loose breathable soil contributes to good rooting of the seedling, which allows you to prepare the plants for winter.

Planting shrubs in the fall has its drawbacks:

1. Planting material is immature seedlings of a bush or tree. With the onset of early frosts, sudden changes in temperature, too heavy rains, they may not take root and die in a cold snowy winter.
2. A variety of pests in the absence of food can eat the bark of fruit trees and shrubs, which significantly reduces the chances of plant rooting.

It is necessary to take into account the amount of snow that falls in a particular region. If the nast is too large and heavy, thin stems and branches may break under its weight.

What fruit bushes and trees are planted in autumn

In autumn, you can plant the following fruit trees:

• cherry;
• peach;
• almond;
• apple trees;
• sweet cherry;
• apricot;
• plum.

Almost any fruit shrubs, with the exception of sea buckthorn, are optimally planted in the autumn. Winter-hardy varieties are:

• nut;
• currant;
• coniferous;
• some types of pear;
• honeysuckle;
• gooseberry;
• aronia.

After the autumn planting, seedlings brought from the southern regions do not take root. They are not able to endure sub-zero temperatures and large amounts of snow.

Terms of landing works

Autumn planting of trees must be carried out at the following times:

• in the cities of the middle zone - from the end of September to the end of October;
• in the warm parts of the country - from the last decade of September to mid-November.

Plants can be planted later, depending on the weather. In southern latitudes, winter generally occurs in late November or early December. If the above-zero temperature is maintained until this period, there are no heavy rains, snow and night frosts, you can do planting work.

tree planting technology

Planting fruit trees in the fall has certain nuances. It is important to choose the side of the site where there is more light and low (at least 1.5 m) groundwater. Some crops, such as peach, cherry, raspberry, will not produce a good harvest without proper lighting.

Site and soil preparation

Before choosing a place, consider the size of the future plant, namely the roots and crown of the bush / tree. It is also necessary to make indents from the house, communications and outbuildings.

The distance is calculated based on the height of the tree:

• tall ones, reaching 20–25 m, are placed at least 35 m from the building;
• undersized species - from 4.5 m.

Some crops in the neighborhood give a poor harvest and interfere with each other, depriving them of light. The neighborhood of an apple tree with cherry plum, peach, apricot with cherry, walnut with many fruit crops is not recommended.

Pit preparation is as follows:

1. The size is determined based on the diameter of the roots. Stone fruits require a hole of at least 40 cm in diameter up to 60 seconds deep, for pome fruits the hole should be up to 80 cm in diameter and a similar depth.
2. Root cutting is not recommended. If the seedling does not fit in the hole, its diameter must be increased.
3. At the bottom of the pit, a drainage layer of crushed stone 20-40 mm, sand and gravel mixture or river pebbles is arranged.
4. The top layer is removed carefully; in the future, supplements of mineral or organic origin will be added to it.

Two years after planting, the seedling will fully feed on the substances that are in the soil of the planting pit. That is why the initial feeding is so important.

How to prepare seedlings

When choosing planting material, pay attention to the appearance of the plant:

• the roots should be straightened and not bent up;
• on the root system there should be a clod of moist earth;
• too many leaves on a seedling may indicate that there is not enough moisture in the tissues;
• if unripened shoots are visible, then the seedling was dug up before the leaves fell;
• there should be no visible cracks, rot or other damage on the bark.

A good seedling is even, with at least 5-6 shoots, without curved sections of the trunk and branches.

Landing scheme

Technique for planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn:

1. Place seedlings on the south side of the site. Most fruit crops are thermophilic and need good lighting. On the north side, it is better to plant tall trees.
2. Prepare the seedling - remove the dried parts of the root system with secateurs, moisten with a wet piece of cloth or a spray gun.
3. Place a wooden peg in the center of the dug hole, make a mound at the bottom.
4. Place a seedling in the center of this mound so that it is at least 5 cm from the peg. The inoculation should be located 3 cm above the ground.
5. Fill the hole with earth, gently pressing it with your hands. Do some mulching.

First remove the top layer of soil, place it in a large container. Here it is necessary to make top dressing and fill up the place around the seedling.

Subtleties of planting shrubs

It is better to plant shrubs on the site in the first decade of September, so that before the winter cold they have time to take root and not be damaged by frost. The planting technique depends on whether you want to get free-standing bushes or a hedge.

Site and soil preparation

The dimensions of the planting holes must correspond to the parameters of the root system. Lateral roots - to be able to receive nutrients and water from all layers of the soil due to growth to the sides.

Pits for bushes are prepared as follows:

1. To create a natural fence from the bushes, you need to dig a long trench. At the lowest point of the dug hole, drain the water. If there is no slope of the site, an artificial slope is created by removing the top layer of soil.
2. Some shrubs, such as thuja, are suitable for creating hedges. In this case, it is also possible to make a trench, the depth of which will be 50-60 cm.
3. Medium-sized plants require trenches up to 50 cm deep.
4. From the smallest shrubs, you can create low borders. In this case, the trench will not exceed 35 cm in depth.

The width of the pit also varies depending on the size of the seedlings:

• single row landing - 50 cm;
• medium shrubs - up to 40 cm;
• small seedlings - the width of a shovel.

As in the case of planting trees, the top layer of soil about 12 cm thick is removed and deposited in a separate container for top dressing.

Planting material processing

When seedlings are purchased in advance, they must be protected from drying out by wrapping the root system with a wet cloth and transfer the plants to a cool place. If the seedling is bought too late, it is better to bury it before the next planting period. Preparatory steps:

• the roots are pruned until healthy tissues appear, dried roots are removed with pruners;
• 1.5 hours before being transferred to the pits, the root system is watered abundantly;
• the plant is transferred to a pit with an adhering earthen clod;
• some cultures require pruning of shoots before planting.

It is necessary to remove all dried shoots and roots, as well as broken, with signs of disease, cracks. Use a sharp tool so as not to hurt the healthy tissue of the plant.

Landing technology

Bush planting scheme:

1. It is necessary to drive a pointed wooden peg into the dug hole to a depth of about 20 cm. The height of the peg should be about 1-1.5 m. It is necessary for further tying plants (standard varieties) and strengthening on the ground.
2. Before planting about 15 minutes, the roots of the seedlings should be in the open air. To do this, remove the packaging or a damp cloth, lay out the planting material near the dug holes.
3. Fill the bottom of the hole with vegetable soil and form a mound in the shape of a cone with a height of at least half the depth. Consider the nature of the branching and the shape of the root system.
4. Place the seedling and straighten the roots along the cone with your hands. It should be strictly vertical and at a distance of 5 cm from the peg.
5. Please note that with subsequent watering the soil will settle. Therefore, the seedling should be 5 cm above the usual surface of the garden plot, the root collar does not go deep into the pit.
6. Pour the soil in layers, compact with your feet to the outside of the hole. This will help to avoid the appearance of voids and too much shrinkage when watering.
7. Completely cover the entire root system, gently tamp. Center the position of the seedling and tie it with a soft rope to a peg at a height of about 1.5 mots of soil.

For non-standard forms of shrubs, as a fortification, you can use not a peg, but a rounded hole, which is organized according to the diameter of the landing pit.

Immediately after planting shrubs and fruit trees, it is necessary to water the seedlings. Mulching is carried out with peat chips, the layer thickness should be about 2 cm. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture. In addition to peat, you can use a mixture of earth and sand, crushed tree bark and other natural materials.

As a top dressing, a ready-made or self-made growth stimulator is used. It is added to the water used for irrigation. This will promote the rapid rooting of plants.

When working with shrubs or trees, consider the climatic conditions. The low temperatures of the Urals or Siberia are suitable for growing acclimatized or zoned varieties that can withstand early frosts and snowy windy winters. Early digging of seedlings, if it is carried out before the foliage has flown, can cause bushes with unripened shoots to freeze and die. Choose planting material without leaves, not overdried, without broken or dry roots.

How to transplant shrubs.

If you are bored with the familiar look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new place. And the reason may be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you have found a new cozy place for it in your garden.

The transplantation of "large-sized" planting material has been practiced in world horticulture for a very long time. The need to transplant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place for it. In addition, shrubs are transplanted if they have grown strongly and there is not enough space for them in this area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

The time is recommended to transplant in spring or autumn when they are at rest. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are transplanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with curly shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the shrub. It is easiest to transplant shrubs that grow in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from transplanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root worse.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select a suitable site in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the location where you want to transplant the shrub is close to where it currently grows, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move the bush a considerable distance, then I recommend packing its root ball in a dense cloth. This will help us not to lose the soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for transplanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting a shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, we water the shrub well so that it is easier to dig it out, and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball from all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a landing hole at the proposed site for the future planting of the shrub. The pit should be twice as wide as the root ball itself. The earth at the bottom of the landing pit will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth as it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm 100 mulch).

In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to develop well in the future, feed it. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water and carry out root dressing. If you transplanted a bush to a windy place, take care of a reliable support, we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our shrub. As soon as the shrub takes root, the support can be removed; for the rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to sum it up: the ideal time to transplant is early spring, as soon as the soil opens up, before the plant has started to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In areas with a cold climate and in areas with clay soil, it is better to plant the plant in the spring. We transplant in the autumn, this is an alternative time for transplanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plant at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, repot the plants after the soil has dried out. That's all the secrets of a good shrub transplant. Good luck to you.

How and when to transplant trees and bushes

Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?

Trees, in case of emergency, can be replanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:

The tree to be transplanted should be taken out of the ground on a foggy or rainy day.

Pits are dug a few months before planting and filled with semi-rotted manure or good compost.

Trees to be transplanted must be healthy.

When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.

If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.

When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.

Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.

The weak part of the tree should face south.

There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.

To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.

After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.

After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.

Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.

Reader Tips:

How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)

Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...

Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then, “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch), lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting down the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.

My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...

Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.

They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a recess like a bowl so that rainwater would flow right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.

What was our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering - the cherry and apple tree took root!

In the spring, I watered the apple tree in 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this "bowl", as it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.

They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

Pear: forming a crown: Forming a crown in a pear - ...

Strawberry tree - home care: How to grow a strawberry tree in ...

Pruning plums and cherries (stone fruit) - how to: Proper pruning of plums and cherries ...

Whitewashing fruit trees in February-March: how, when and with what - questions and answers: Should trees be whitewashed in February? Why…

Dogwood capitate (photo) strawberry tree - planting and growing: Strawberry tree - planting and ...

What to plant instead of a dead tree or gardening: What tree can be planted after ...

Tulip tree: photo and cultivation: Tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) -…

Garden and dacha › Tips for a summer resident › How and when to transplant trees

When is the best time to transplant trees and shrubs?

When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, you need to follow some Rules.

Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.

When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves from plants, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and loss of moisture.

Digging and landing in a new place is desirable to carry out in one day.

After planting, transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.

Do not plant plants together with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.

Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?

Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".

• It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.

When planting and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of ​​​​the root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root collar in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter. Read more about planting seedlings in containers.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, the plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to transplant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. With an open root system, coniferous plants are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

More interesting articles on the site:

Transplanting currants to a new place in autumn and spring when possible

In garden practice, often there are Situations that require a currant transplant to a new location. Most often this is due to an error during site selection, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - Great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by soreness and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of currants.

• Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush
  • Site selection and preparation
• Care after

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in what month?

Which month is better? The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with severe winters with a decrease in air temperature below 30 ° C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the features of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

spring transplant carried out after complete thawing of the soil, temperature rise to + 1 ° C and until the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region.

There are much more favorable factors for the autumn transplantation of currants. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new place.

In addition, there are much more nutrients in the currant cells in autumn and the downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of horticulture, the shrub Prefer to transplant in autumn. At the same time, it is important to determine the most accurate dates, at least three weeks should remain before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush

The basis of a successful transplant of an adult shrub- the right choice of location, preparation of soil and shrubs.

Site selection and preparation

Red and white currants are thermophilic plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or south-west direction. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currant less whimsical plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are noted when planting on the slopes of the northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are tilled crops that help clear the area from rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed hollows, where cold air stagnates and humidity is increased. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with fertilization per 1 m2:

• Compost or manure 10 kg;
• Double superphosphate 10 g;
• Potassium chloride 7 g.

In spring or autumn, a pit is prepared for transplanting: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, fill it with a substrate

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for the bush. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.

Determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases Enough depth 40 cm and width 60 cm. For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm is required. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is 1/3 filled with substrate from mixed components:

• The top layer of garden soil from the pit;
• Rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
• Superphosphate 300 g (for blackcurrant) 200 g (red, white);
• Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, they dig a hole deeper. and at the bottom they form a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken bricks, not more than 15% of the total volume.

Thereafter The pit is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants inside the pit, all conditions will be created for a comfortable adaptation of the roots.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the introduced minerals and organics will take on forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause root burns.

Currant transplant:

Preparation of red and black currant bushes

During transplantation, the volume of shrub roots will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult to feed the vegetative mass. Therefore, currant 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, cut, leaving only areas that are significant for fruiting and development. When planting in autumn, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it, at a height of 30-40 cm, a fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the crop is placed on them.

On top branches also massively form fruit buds, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the shrub are cut off by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season's crop. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

The productivity of currant fruits is 5 years, It makes no sense to leave obsolete branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches, they should also be removed.

Do not combine pruning shrubs with transplanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute the forces to heal wounds and adapt roots in a new place. This can cause the death of currants.

Can be transplanted elsewhere!

During transplantation, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the trunk circle, retreating 40 cm from the trunk. After that, you need to gently pull the shrub at the base of the branches, cut off the roots holding with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event Currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The excavated shrub is placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the landing site.

Further Examine the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. Carry out the disinfection procedure by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the landing hole A mound is formed from the prepared substrate and spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. After that, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in a too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

Also take into account that The root neck of the shrub should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

When transplanting, it must be taken into account that the root neck of the shrub is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate

Regarding the cardinal points, currants are placed similarly to the previous place. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

During the backfilling of the roots, make sure that voids do not form., which often cause decay. To do this, during the procedure, the shrub is periodically shaken.

The surface is compacted and A hole for irrigation is formed around the near-stem circle.. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With this watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After that, the trunk circle and the hole are mulched with peat, humus or soddy soil.

Care after

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the near-stem circle is maintained in a constantly loose state.. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for proper nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the shrub is prepared for winter:

• Clean the near-stem circle from plant residues;
• Lay a layer of mulch from peat or straw at least 15 cm in height;
• Cover the trunk with spruce branches;
• Spraying with fungicides;
• The branches are collected to the center and tied with twine;
• They pull the snow up to the bushes.

Currants are prepared for winter: the trunk circle is cleaned of plant residues, the branches are collected to the center and tied with twine

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, Will need regular watering every other day. So that the soil is moistened up to 60 cm deep. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need top dressing. After two weeks, the irrigation time is determined by the state of the soil under the shrub.

The crumbling of the soil into small pieces after squeezing in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is guided throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases., which is explained by the temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the gardener during this period is complete control over the currant, especially in the first year of development.

BUT Insecticides and fungicides can help, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2.